tour report - birdquest rep 08 .pdf · tour report leaders: simon harrap ... and cinnamon bitterns,...

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1 Birdquest: Philippines 2008 PHILIPPINES 1 – 23 MARCH 2008 TOUR REPORT LEADERS: SIMON HARRAP The 2008 Birdquest to the Philippines was a great introduction to this remarkably varied but fast disappearing avifauna. A total of 315 species were recorded on the tour, including 127 endemics and near-endemics seen and another four heard (the near-endemics are Black-chinned Fruit-Dove, Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, Chocolate Hawk Owl, Rufous Paradise Flycatcher, Lowland White-eye and Coleto, which also occur on a few small islands outwith the Philippines). We were very lucky with the weather, which was mostly dry and bright, and some of the stars of the trip included Great-billed Heron, Chinese Egret, Black Bittern, a ridiculously tame Palawan Peacock-Pheasant, four species of hornbill, Bukidnon Woodcock, Malaysian Plover, five endemic pigeons, Pied and Grey Imperial Pigeons, Philippine, Palawan and Mantanani Scops-Owls, Philippine and Mindanao Hawk-Owls, great views of both Palawan and Philippine Frogmouths, three species of racquet-tails, Philippine Cockatoo, Philippine Trogon, stunning Indigo-banded, Silvery, Ruddy, Rufous-lored and Spotted Wood-Kingfishers, Sooty Woodpecker, great views of two endemic malkohas, three species of pitta, including the imposing endemic Steere’s Pitta, Mindanao Wattled Broadbill, two species of rhabdornis, Falcated and Streaked Ground-Babblers, Ashy Ground Thrush, five endemic tailorbirds, Little Slaty Flycatcher, Short-crested Monarch, three endemic tits, six endemic sunbirds, nine endemic flowerpeckers and great views of Red-eared Parrotfinch. And, oh yes, THE eagle. After our various long flights we assembled at Manila airport for... a beer. Bernard, who was on our Remote Philippines tour, was delayed in Zamboanga at the very end of his remote experience so the best thing seemed to be to wait for him to get back to Manila before we headed south to Los Banos. Up early the next morning, we headed out to the forest at Mt Makiling before dawn but unfortunately this was to be in vain as we only heard Philippine Hawk-Owl (and not even that for the scops owl). Once it was light the birds were slow in coming but ... come they did. Our first real piece of luck was with the hawk-owl, when I spotted a pair roosting side by side, and looking much more like a Glaucidium owlet than a Ninox. They we can across a super Spotted Wood-Kingfisher, which sat in full view at eye level for several minutes. Third was Grey-backed Tailorbird, a species that is often very elusive, a pair of which showed well almost at our feet before performing for quite some while in a tangle. We also picked up some of the mountains other specialities, including several Flaming Sunbirds, Scale-feathered Malkoha, Stripe-headed Rhabdornis (already bird of the trip for Paul) and Striped Flowerpecker, as well as surprises in the form of Philippine Hawk-Cuckoo, Violet Cuckoo and

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Page 1: TOUR REPORT - Birdquest REP 08 .pdf · TOUR REPORT LEADERS: SIMON HARRAP ... and Cinnamon Bitterns, a single pond-heron sp in winter plumage, and hundreds of nesting Purple Herons

1 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

PHILIPPINES

1 – 23 MARCH 2008

TOUR REPORT

LEADERS: SIMON HARRAP The 2008 Birdquest to the Philippines was a great introduction to this remarkably varied but fast disappearing avifauna. A total of 315 species were recorded on the tour, including 127 endemics and near-endemics seen and another four heard (the near-endemics are Black-chinned Fruit-Dove, Philippine Cuckoo-Dove, Chocolate Hawk Owl, Rufous Paradise Flycatcher, Lowland White-eye and Coleto, which also occur on a few small islands outwith the Philippines). We were very lucky with the weather, which was mostly dry and bright, and some of the stars of the trip included Great-billed Heron, Chinese Egret, Black Bittern, a ridiculously tame Palawan Peacock-Pheasant, four species of hornbill, Bukidnon Woodcock, Malaysian Plover, five endemic pigeons, Pied and Grey Imperial Pigeons, Philippine, Palawan and Mantanani Scops-Owls, Philippine and Mindanao Hawk-Owls, great views of both Palawan and Philippine Frogmouths, three species of racquet-tails, Philippine Cockatoo, Philippine Trogon, stunning Indigo-banded, Silvery, Ruddy, Rufous-lored and Spotted Wood-Kingfishers, Sooty Woodpecker, great views of two endemic malkohas, three species of pitta, including the imposing endemic Steere’s Pitta, Mindanao Wattled Broadbill, two species of rhabdornis, Falcated and Streaked Ground-Babblers, Ashy Ground Thrush, five endemic tailorbirds, Little Slaty Flycatcher, Short-crested Monarch, three endemic tits, six endemic sunbirds, nine endemic flowerpeckers and great views of Red-eared Parrotfinch. And, oh yes, THE eagle. After our various long flights we assembled at Manila airport for... a beer. Bernard, who was on our Remote Philippines tour, was delayed in Zamboanga at the very end of his remote experience so the best thing seemed to be to wait for him to get back to Manila before we headed south to Los Banos. Up early the next morning, we headed out to the forest at Mt Makiling before dawn but unfortunately this was to be in vain as we only heard Philippine Hawk-Owl (and not even that for the scops owl). Once it was light the birds were slow in coming but ... come they did. Our first real piece of luck was with the hawk-owl, when I spotted a pair roosting side by side, and looking much more like a Glaucidium owlet than a Ninox. They we can across a super Spotted Wood-Kingfisher, which sat in full view at eye level for several minutes. Third was Grey-backed Tailorbird, a species that is often very elusive, a pair of which showed well almost at our feet before performing for quite some while in a tangle. We also picked up some of the mountains other specialities, including several Flaming Sunbirds, Scale-feathered Malkoha, Stripe-headed Rhabdornis (already bird of the trip for Paul) and Striped Flowerpecker, as well as surprises in the form of Philippine Hawk-Cuckoo, Violet Cuckoo and

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2 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

two Asian Brown Flycatchers. After our traditional 'take-out' lunch we staked out the river in the campus for quite some time, but only glimpsed Indigo-banded Kingfisher, and then moved to the rice fields, where we had superb views of two pairs of Spotted Buttonquails, as well as several Swinhoe's Snipe. Our second day at Makiling started well. We had another pre-dawn departure, but this time it was worthwhile as we got a response from a Philippine Scops Owl at the first attempt and saw it well, sitting in the open, on a couple of occasions. Suitably enthused, we headed off up the forest road but it was very cloudy and rather windy (in fact it seemed to take ages to get light enough to see anything). Needless to say in these conditions we struggled, with long periods with no birds. We did, however, eventually pick up some real goodies. First was a White-browed Shama, which sat in full view as it sang, and then a Black-chinned Fruit-Dove showed briefly. Continuing on the trail we whistled in a Rusty-breasted Cuckoo, but it was hard going seeing any small birds. On the return leg down the mountain we found a tree full of Red-keeled and Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers, along with Naked-faced Spiderhunter and showy Red-crested Malkohas with their amazing punk hair-dos. The best was yet to come, however, as, walking down the trail well past midday we found an Ashy Ground Thrush and enjoyed scope views of this seldom-seen skulker that is meant to confine its activities to dawn and dusk! Over the picnic lunch we added Ashy Minivet and Black-and-White Triller to the list and, as a final farewell, had good views of the Indigo-banded Kingfisher and picked up Lowland White-eye (despite the wind). Well pleased, we then headed to Manila for the night. Suitably rested, we left before dawn and headed north along the already busy highway, eventually turning off onto narrower and narrower roads until we reached Candaba Swamp. On arrival we could see a mass of birds comprising several thousand ducks of eight species. Most were Garganeys, but there were also 250 or more Philippine Ducks, with their smart cinnamon faces. Other waterbirds included Philippine Swamphen, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, Oriental Pratincole, Whiskered Tern, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns, a single pond-heron sp in winter plumage, and hundreds of nesting Purple Herons and Black-crowned Night Herons. This concentration of birds had attracted a Peregrine and a superb male Eastern Marsh Harrier, and other notable species included Blue-tailed Bee-eater and Lesser Coucal, but the single Barred Rail seen was only on show very briefly. Several Island Collared Doves were a bonus, as were three White-shouldered Starlings (a write-in, the sixth of the day - the other five being ducks!). From Candaba we adjourned to a Pancake House for a late breakfast and then sat back for the long drive north to Banaue, arriving a little late due to a combination of too many birds at Candaba and the thick fog on the drive up from the Lagawe river valley to Banaue itself. There was still thick fog when we started out from the hotel early the next morning and it persisted all the way to the summit of Mt Polis, and well into the morning too. Nevertheless, we did see a selection of birds, and see most of them very well. We started with Island Thrush on the road, followed by Chestnut-faced Babblers (the commonest bird there) and svelte Metallic-winged Sunbirds. A tame Olive-backed Pipit showed well and a Luzon Bush-Warbler also performed nicely, but we struggled after this. But, by persisting we added Mountain White-eye, Mountain Tailorbird, Little Pied Flycatcher and, best of all, demure Green-backed Whistlers (but what would have been bird of the day, Flame-crowed Flowerpecker, showed to Simon for just one second). We then moved down-slope to Bay-yo for lunch, some welcome sunshine and great views of the rice terraces there. Luzon Water Redstart was spotted from the road but it was a long way off, so we elected to walk down through the fields to the river. This was surprisingly steep, but we were rewarded with great views of both male and female Water Redstart. Back at the summit of Mt Polis it was foggy again, so after a brief sortie we returned to the hotel.

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3 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

On our second day at Banaue we again ascended the mountain pre-dawn. This time it was not foggy, but bird activity was down on yesterday (those cloud-forest birds certainly love their cloud, fog and drizzle, even if it makes the bigger birds all but impossible to see). Along the road we did find a Mountain Shrike, and then we spent several hours along a narrow trail in what little remains of the good forest near the summit. This was very quiet, but we did finally see a Long-tailed Ground-Warbler creeping past us like a little rat and had stunning views of a male Flame-crowned Flowerpecker that fed unconcerned 60 cm from Bernard's face. Dropping lower for lunch, we tried for Benguet Bush-Warbler. This is usually extremely difficult to see and I was pleased when we managed to get one to skulk past us at close range, giving brief naked-eye views. A second bird was, however, remarkable, showing superbly in the open a metre or so away and even stopping to sing. Suitable pleased, we headed back to the hotel for an early dinner. We left Banaue for the final time in sunshine and wound our way back down to the lowlands. En route a short stop was very productive, with a fine male Pygmy Flowerpecker and a pair of Philippine Tailorbirds that performed very well. We then sat back for the long, bum-numbing drive south to Subic, with the traffic getting worse and worse as we left the relative calm of northern Luzon and approached Manila. The journey was relieved by a lunch-stop where we coincided with both a wedding and a baptism (the ceremonies did not involve the same people). On arrival at Subic we had time for an hour or so along a quiet road through the forest, which produced our first Coletos and Green Imperial Pigeons, as well as fine views of Red-crested and especially Scale-feathered Malkohas (the latter was scoped). Best of all were two specialities, Blackish Cuckoo-shrike and Rufous Coucal. The cuckoo-shrike sat right out in the open, but the coucals merely glided past, but even a brief flight view is good going for this shy but noisy skulker! A Spotted Buttonquail scuttled off the side of the road and we had our first mammal of the trip – a roadside troop of Crab-eating Macaques. The following day we started off at dawn on the edge of the forest at Subic and it proved to be a quiet morning, perhaps due to the rather windy conditions. Nevertheless, we managed to add some good species to the list. Fist was Luzon Hornbill, which was scoped, and then a little tinkle announced the presence of White-fronted Tit and we had good views of this as it moved from treetop to treetop, singing away, and in the end there were two birds present. Sooty Woodpecker also showed well (in the end) and Greater Flameback was seen. We had good view of Guaiabero but had to wait quite a while before we had a view of a Green Racquet-tail, a local speciality, complete with racquets. By late morning it was clearly time to give up and we adjourned for lunch. On the way we stopped to look at a large colony of Golden-crowned Flying Foxes, an endangered endemic and reputedly the largest bat in the world by weight. Over lunch we had another treat when three Manta Rays came past just a few metres offshore, their languid progression and spotted upperparts making them look like giant butterflies. Then we packed and headed to Manila for an overnight stay, stopping en route to look at Barred and White-browed Crakes and masses of Whiskered Terns. We had a very early start to get to the airport for the flight to Cagayan de Oro on Mindanao. As usual with these early morning flights, it left early and we arrived in good time. The first stop on our journey was for breakfast (and a pair of Pied Fantails). We then sped south to Dalwangan where a pony and a carabao awaited our baggage. It was by now hot and sunny, but we were lucky enough to be able to take a new, shorter and easier route up to the Eagle Camp, arriving in time for lunch. We had our first good bird, Grey-hooded Sunbird, at the camp, and then walked up the hill in search of eagles. This was not successful, but we did see Black-and-cinnamon Fantail, Cinnamon Ibon and, best of all, scoped a pair of White-cheeked Bullfinches. Back at camp we waited for dusk. First we saw a Philippine Nightjar, sitting calling on a snag at the edge of the clearing. Then the Bukidnon Woodcock flew past, but just once, and the views were poor. Finally, we ventured into the woods and, just as we were about to give up, we got a response from Philippine Frogmouth. After a short

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4 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

while we had it spotlighted and enjoyed fantastic views for over 10 minutes at point blank range. Up before dawn for breakfast, we chased out after a calling Giant Scops Owl, but (as usual) with no success. Once it was light we headed off up the hill. En route we had good looks at Olive-capped Flowerpecker and we soon reached a good viewpoint overlooking a forested valley. It was clear and sunny - indeed, too much so, as it quickly became rather hot. The fine weather did, however, prompt raptors to perform, and during the course of the morning we saw Oriental Honey-buzzard, a distant Steere's Honey-buzzard, Crested Goshawk, Philippine Hawk-Eagle and Grey-faced Buzzard, but of course we had one particular raptor on our mind. Mid morning we heard some calling from the valley below, clearly a Philippine Eagle was perched there on the valley sides, but it was out of sight. It called on and off for 90 minutes, but never showed - frustrating, to say the least. Fortunately, a second eagle appeared, circling over the forest. We saw it three times, each time better than the last, and in the end we were well-pleased with the views. By now it was hot and there seemed little point in going further up the hill, so we wandered very slowly down towards the camp. It was very quiet, and we were frustrated by Red-eared Parrotfinch, which was seen briefly but never showed well. Back at camp the woodcock put in a very poor performance (maybe it had begun winding down its roding at the end of its breeding season?) but we saw the Philippine Nightjar again. A pre-dawn start (again) paid off on our second day at Kitanglad with views of the woodcock flying fast overhead. We then set off up the mountain, aiming for the higher patches of forest. En route we found a perched Grey-faced Buzzard and had 'views' of three Red-eared Parrotfinches (better described as green bullets). A Philippine Cuckoo-dove flew past, and we added Pied Triller to the list and at last had good views of a perched Eyebrowed Thrush. Climbing ever higher we came across our first Apo Mynas, wonderful noisy bug-eyed starlings feeding on little spiky fruits, and then some Black-masked White-eyes and a smart male Mugimaki Flycatcher. Higher still and Carleto’s ‘surprise’ was a Philippine Nightjar sitting on two eggs amidst the clay and club mosses and allowing itself to be admired from just a few feet away, apparently completely unperturbed. Higher still and we spent a lot of time tracking down Apo Sunbird, but in the end all of us had good views of the male, and as a bonus for Paul a Mountain Shrike showed too. Mission accomplished at the higher altitudes, we slowly wended our way down hill, to be met by the first rain of our stay on Kitanglad. It did not last long, but livened up the birds, and a pair of noisy McGregor's Cuckooshrikes were especially appreciated by Bernard. Continuing downhill we had good views (at last) of Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis and Short-tailed Glossy Starling, and then the skies opened with some real rain. Not to worry, we were almost back at camp and a hot coffee and a 'shower'! That evening the woodcock performed again, even better than in the morning, and we could sleep content. On our final morning at Kitanglad the dawn sky was filled with ragged clouds and I was glad that we were not planning to climb high on the mountain that day As it was we walked a little way up the trail and staked out an area of bushes, and this was rewarded with great scope views of three or four Red-eared Parrotfinches, feeding just like Goldfinches on seed heads. A try for Blue-capped Wood Kingfisher was not so successful, and then it was time to finish packing and walk back down to our waiting vehicles and civilisation. The rest of the day was then taken up with a long drive east and then south to Bislig, uneventful apart from a good lunch (complete with Striated Swallows) and some torrential rain as we neared our destination. Our first day at PICOP started with rain as we left the hotel, but it was to turn into one of the best days that I can remember there. When we arrived at the 'forest' (or what's left of it) the rain had cleared and we heard two Mindanao Hawk-Owl - trouble was, they were distant and we did not see them, although two Great-eared Nightjars floating overhead was some compensation. As the grey light of dawn appeared we began to hear and then see some more birds, the best being both Yellow-

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5 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

breasted and Black-chinned Fruit-Doves showing well in a small fruiting tree, several Mindanao Hornbills, Drongo Cuckoos, Pygmy Swiftlets (the first of the trip), Scarlet Minivet and a White-bellied Woodpecker. Moving on, we stopped for some bird activity and were surprised to hear Rufous-lored Kingfisher calling from some isolated trees. We quickly had good views of this, as well as Philippine Leafbird, but were frustrated by the squawks of unseen racquet-tails. We then entered a short trail and spent the rest of the morning there. At first it was quiet, but then a Little Slaty Flycatcher was heard, and it went on to show very well. Blue-crowned Racquet-tails and Black-faced Coucals followed, and then we hit our first flock. Diligent and often neck-breaking searching eventually produced Rusty-crowned Babblers, Blue Fantails, Yellow-bellied Whistlers and brief looks at Rufous Paradise Flycatcher and Short-crested Monarch. We tried for pittas too, but although Steere's Was calling it was very distant. After a good while we gave up and then, of course, a Steere's began to call close by and we were soon enjoying great views of this stunning azure wonder. Sated, we left it and within seconds chanced upon a Red-bellied Pitta, which also showed well. Grins all round! We added Philippine Trogon to a growing list and then the little flock appeared again and this time, there were male and female Wattled Broadbills with it. After an initial panic we had scope views and the grins were even wider! A picnic followed and we then headed slowly back to town, with a walk along the road producing both male and female Violet Cuckoo and Everett's White-eye, and the usual pools the 'usual' Silvery Kingfisher. The final venue of the day was Bislig airfield. Here we had great views of a perched Black Bittern and saw two Watercocks, and also flushed a Blue-breasted Quail, but the one Grass Owl to appear towards dusk was way distant and hardly worth bothering with. On our second day at PICOP we again started before dawn, and again heard Mindanao Hawk-Owl. This time it was close by, but refused, nevertheless, to show itself. Once it was light we carried on to an 'undisturbed' area of forest, a slight misnomer as wet met a gang of chainsaw wielding illegal loggers, and were serenaded as we birded. We also me a man hunting White-eared Brown-doves (unsuccessfully) for his lunch. But, despite the disturbance, we did see some good birds. A Steere's Pitta bounded along the track and we had great views of both Writhed and Rufous Hornbills (the loggers also had their eyes on the former, no doubt for lunch too). Rufous Paradise Flycatcher and Short-crested Monarch performed, and we found Philippine Needletail, Philippine Leaf-Warbler and Olive-backed and Buzzing Flowerpeckers. After a siesta, a walk along the road between showers was productive, with a female Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike, a skulking Black-headed Tailorbird and very elusive Streaked Ground-Babblers. After an early start, we then made our way back to the hotel for an early dinner and very welcome early night. Things did not look promising early the next morning as it was raining torrentially. There were murmurs about going back to bed but you never know at Bislig what the rain will do and so we set off through the deep puddles and into the murk. Happily, it gradually cleared and by the time we reached the birding site had just about stopped, although the trees were dripping heavily. It did not seem likely that an owl would respond but, just to show how wrong you can be it was third time lucky with Mindanao Hawk-Owl, which started calling and was soon in the spotlight. Once it was light we continued along the road only to stop for an impressive flock of over 30 Mindanao Hornbills, which all flew into an isolated stand of trees and then all flew out again. Once at the first birding site proper we had no luck with Celestial Monarch or Blue-capped Kingfisher, both of which were totally silent, but we did have great looks at Black-headed Tailorbird and a family party of Rufous Hornbills that included a strange stripey juvenile that was still being fed by the adults. Then we hit the trail, and in the cooler shade of the forest spent a lot of time trying to see a mysteriously bleeding-heart like dove. It never showed, and may have been an Emerald Dove all along, we will never know .... What we did see well was an Amethyst Brown-dove and I also got a glimpse of Pygmy Babbler. It was then time for lunch and a little siesta, and we moved to a good spot for raptors. Sure enough, we had good views of Philippine Serpent-Eagle and also two Steere's Honey-

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6 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

buzzards, both in moult, and a Philippine Needletail also gave a good display. The last stop in the forest was also a good one, for at last we saw a Streaked Ground-Babbler, which almost ran over our feet like a little brown rat. Heading back to town a stop at the beach produced a surprising diversity of waders, with Terek Sandpiper, Greater Sand Plover, around 20 Kentish Plovers and hundreds of Red-necked Stints. A quick look at the airport was not so good, with just a brief glimpse of a Middendorff’s Grasshopper Warbler, but it had been a good day and we had been able to add some nice new birds despite the inevitable law of diminishing returns on the third day at PICOP. On our last morning at PICOP we again had good weather (what luck!) but were frustrated by the birds. Frustrated by the Chocolate Hawk Owl that did not come quite close enough to be seen, and frustrated by the Pygmy Babblers that vanished too quickly. We did manage to find some nice Purple Needletails and, as a final flourish, at last had really good views of Rufous-fronted Tailorbird. Then it was time to return to the ever-friendly Paper Country Inn, pack, have a final meal there and drive to Davao for the flight back to the bustle of Manila. Fortunately, our flight next morning to Palawan was not too early, so we could at least have breakfast in the hotel. Nevertheless, we were soon touching down in Puerto Princessa and immediately made for the beach. It was high tide, but there were around six Chinese Egrets on view, sitting on the fish traps. They all had shaggy plumes, but had not yet acquired their breeding bare part colouration. A Stork-billed Kingfisher also graced the fish traps, with Pied Fantail and Rufous-tailed Tailorbird around the mangroves, and the trees also concealed a variety of roosting waders, including Grey-tailed Tattler and Greater and Lesser Sand Plovers. After lunch we headed towards Sabang, stopping en route at several choice spots. At the first were several smart Copper-throated Sunbirds and well as Little Spiderhunter of the distinctive Palawan form. At the next stop we admired the fantastic karst landscape, which was graced by a smart Oriental Hobby sitting on a high bluff. Other goodies as we walked along the road included a brilliant Palawan Tit, Shelley’s Sunbirds, Palawan Flowerpeckers, Yellow-throated Leafbirds, Sulphur-bellied Bulbuls and White-vented Shamas, all endemic to Palawan, as well as good views of Philippine Cuckoo-dove, while Chestnut-breasted Malkoha, Common Flameback, Fiery Minivet, Grey-cheeked Bulbul, Hair-crested Drongo and Dark-throated Oriole were more widespread species, but all new to the list. The final stop of the day was, however, the best. Waiting for Palawan Hornbill (which did not appear) a Ruddy Kingfisher started calling by the road and we were soon admiring its mixture of lilac and rufous and enormous bright red bill. In the gathering gloom large, low-flying bats emerged in the large numbers from the bushes and as dusk fell we heard a frogmouth call. It did not take long to track it down and we had great, prolonged views of the wispy plumes and enormous wide bill of a Palawan Frogmouth. We then started trawling for Palawan Scops Owl and in record time were enjoying good looks at this little growler; it was a jubilant party that headed on to the lodge for a shower and a cold drink. Our first day proper at St Paul’s started well with one or two Large-tailed Nightjars floating over our heads as we waited to depart the lodge. It was a short drive to the quay and once on our boat we motored round to the Underground River, picking up Eastern Reef Heron en route. Once ashore we walked up to the guard station, where Tabon Scrubfowls were sneaking around in the undergrowth. Then the peasant appeared, the tamer-than-ever Palawan Peacock-Pheasant. This is now fed on scraps of rice by the guards and approached me to within 60 cm – far too close for the camera. After enjoying the spectacle we went on to look at Blue Paradise Flycatcher and were then alerted to the squawks of distant Blue-headed Racquet-tails. We climbed the wooden steps of the Monkey Trail and saw several groups of racquet-tails as they shot past – brief views but better than nothing. We then looked at the mouth of the Underground River, studying the coffee-coloured Palawan Swiftlets as they emerged amongst the more numerous Glossy Swiftlets, before returning to our boat. On the way to Sabang a look at the CPS, by contrast, produced nothing at all, so we had an early lunch in

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anticipation of a busy afternoon. We started along the road in search or hornbills. A tip-off by a local proved only slightly misleading, as we heard Palawan Hornbills, but they were very distant, as all we managed to see was some very vocal Hill Mynas. We then tried a couple of short trails, but were again frustrated, this time by Hooded Pittas, vocal but shy. We did, however, find a nice male Palawan Blue Flycatcher and Ashy-headed Babblers. At dusk, we tried for the Spotted Wood Owls we had heard the previous evening but they were silent – indeed, we heard no owls or frogmouths, merely spotlighting a Large-tailed Nightjar as we headed back to the lodge. We started our second day at Sabang on the roadside, looking in vain again for hornbills. Instead we had good looks at Blue Paradise Flycatcher and scoped a Little Spiderhunter, and finally saw Hooded Pitta well as it perched up calling. We then headed into the park again, with the first birds a pair of Malaysian Plovers on the beach, looking fine but slightly agitated – how do they manage to nest here with the ever-increasing numbers of people? We spent much of the morning on a forest trail, and it was the hottest and stickiest trail that you can imagine! We did not find our prime target, Falcated Ground-Babbler, but did have the most fantastic prolonged views of Red-bellied Pitta. It was then time to go back to the lodge, change, pack and lunch, and head back towards Puerto Princessa. We had a change to the planned itinerary for the afternoon: it is no longer possible to stay after dark on Rasa Island in search of Mantanani Scops Owl, but we had found another venue. Thus we boarded our ‘bunka’ for the short crossing to a small island not so very far offshore. Here, amongst the fishermen, children and dogs of a private resort, we started by admiring Chinese Egret and a selection of waders that included Sanderling, a ‘write-in’. A Great-billed Heron flew in, showing very well, but we were really looking for pigeons. Quite quickly we had good views of Pied Imperial Pigeon, but it took a lot longer to clinch the identification of Grey Imperial Pigeon – another ‘write-in’. We then waited for dusk, watching Large-tailed Nightjars float past, but even when it was dark heard no owls. We waited and waited to no avail, and in near-desperation changed places and went in to the bushes. Amazingly, this manoeuvre paid off when we saw a pair of Mantanani Scops within seconds as they gave they rhythmic croaking barks. Well pleased, we headed back to the mainland for a late dinner and bed. Up early the next morning (to beat the cicadas) we headed for the Balsahan River Trail. Here we struggled at first, as a pair of Melodious Babblers took a long while to show themselves, but after this things went swimmingly. We found a beautiful little Palawan Flycatcher darting about in the undergrowth, Palawan Tits and Great Slaty Woodpeckers, and then a much-wanted bird, Falcated Ground-Babbler, which circled us and then perched up for scope views as it sang. As we left the trail a dark phase Changeable Hawk-Eagle was an additional bonus, and we settled down for the drive south and west to Narra. After lunch and a break we headed off to the quay, where we heard about the work of the Cockatoo Conservation Programme, which has lead to an increase in the numbers of the critically endangered Philippine Cockatoos on Rasa Island from 24 to 160 birds in eight years. Full of anticipation, we boarded our bunka and chugged out to Rasa itself, winding our way laboriously up a shallow creek between the mangroves to a jetty by the watch-tower. Here, a 90 minute vigil produced up to eight cockatoos, and we admired their good looks (if not their raucous voices). Other birds included Pied and Green Imperial Pigeons, quacky Palawan Crows and Blue-headed Racquet-tail (which showed well), and then it was time to head back down the creek and across to the mainland for the last night of the tour. The drive back to Puerto Princessa next morning was broken only a roadside walk that produced good looks at leafbirds and Ashy Drongo, and then it was time to fly back to Manila for the flight home and the end of a great trip to one of my very favourite destinations, with lovely people and some very special birds indeed.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). PODICIPEDIDAE Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis: Two at Candaba. ARDEIDAE Grey Heron Ardea cinerea: Small numbers at Candaba. Great-billed Heron Ardea sumatrana: A smart adult on Pandan Island. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea: Abundant at Candaba and several at Bislig airport on both visits. Great Egret Egretta alba: Widely scattered. Eastern Reef-Egret Egretta sacra: Several dark phase birds at St Paul’s on Palawan. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia: Good numbers at Candaba and en route to Subic, and

common on Palawan, including in the paddies by the lodge at Sabang. Chinese Egret Egretta eulophotes: Around six on the mudflats at Puerto Princessa, one on Pandan

Island and about 5 off Rasa Island. Considered to be Vulnerable, with a world population of 2600-3400 individuals, most of which winter in the central Philippines.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta: Seen in reasonable numbers, scattered throughout the tour. Little Heron (Striated Heron) Butorides striatus: One at the Lagawe River near Banaue. Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus: Thousands. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Hundreds nesting in the wet scrub at Candaba. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis: Several at Candaba and on the journey near Subic, with one at

Bislig airport. Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus: Singles at Candaba, near Subic and at Bislig. Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis: Seen on both visits to Bislig airfield, with great scope views of a

perched bird. ANATIDAE Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuata: Up to four at Bislig airfield. Northern Pintail Anas penelope: Around 30 at Candaba. Green-winged Teal Anas crecca: Around 30 at Candaba. Philippine Duck Anas luzonica: Up to 250 at Candaba and around eight at Bislig airfield. Eurasian Wigeon Anas Penelope: Around 100 at Candaba. Garganey Anas querquedula: Around 3,000 at Candaba. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata: Around 50 at Candaba. Common Pochard Aythya ferina: Around 12 at Candaba. Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula: Around 70 at Candaba. ACCIPITRIDAE Oriental Honey-Buzzard (Crested Honey Buzzard) Pernis ptilorhynchus: Two or three at Kitanglad,

here of the distinctive philippensis race which seems to have an even longer neck than usual, and to suffer from ‘goitre’.

Steere’s Honey-Buzzard Pernis steerei: One seen distantly at Kitanglad, and two pale birds seen well soaring over the lunch stop at PICOP.

Brahminy Kite Haliastur Indus: Two or three on the first afternoon at Subic. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus: A smart male at Candaba. Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis: One seen briefly at Subic. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus: One seen perched at Kitanglad.

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Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus: One seen well on two dates at Kitanglad. This species was a lot commoner ten years ago.

Philippine Serpent-Eagle Spilornis holospilus: Good views at Makiling and Bay-yo and several at PICOP.

Japanese Buzzard Buteo [buteo] japonicus: Seen on both days at Mount Polis. Philippine Eagle (Monkey-eating Eagle) Pithecophaga jefferyi: Three sightings of flying birds at

Kitanglad, each one better that the last. What a bird! The species is known from eastern Luzon, Samar and Leyte, but Mindanao supports the bulk of the population, with recent research estimating 82-233 breeding pairs. Estimates from other islands are six pairs on Samar and perhaps two on Leyte, while Luzon may have very few left. Philippine Eagle has traditionally been placed with the 'harpy eagle' group (Crested Eagle, Harpy Eagle and New Guinea Harpy Eagle), all of which live in tropical forests and feed largely on medium-sized mammals. Recent genetic analysis has shown that the resemblance is due to convergence and that the Philippine Eagle is actually closest to the Circaetinae, the snake-eagles and serpent-eagles.

Changeable Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus: A dark-phase bird at the Balsahan Trail. Philippine Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus philippensis: Singles at Kitanglad (showing well and calling) and at

PICOP. FALCONIDAE Philippine Falconet Microhierax erythrogenys: This small but conspicuous raptor was seen at several

sites on Luzon and Mindanao. Oriental Hobby Falco severus: One perched up on the cliffs between Puerto and Sabang. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: One at Candaba, sat in a field. MEGAPODIIDAE Tabon Scrubfowl (Philippine Scrubfowl) Megapodius cumingii: Two showed well at the

Underground River and one seen by Simon on Pandan Island. PHASIANIDAE Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus (H): Heard at Subic and Kitanglad. Palawan Peacock-Pheasant Polyplectron emphanum: Yet again, great views of this spectacular

pheasant at St Paul’s, where a male has become ‘habituated’ and completely unafraid. Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis: One at Bislig airfield. TURNICIDAE Spotted Buttonquail Turnix ocellata: After a wait, two pairs showed well through the scope as they

wandered back and forth across the track at Mt Makiling, and also seen running off the road at Subic.

RALLIDAE Barred Rail Gallirallus torquatus: One at Candaba showed briefly and also seen by Bernard near

Subic. White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea: Good views of two at the roadside near Subic. Plain Bush-hen Amaurornis olivacea (H): Heard at PICOP. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus: Several at Candaba. Watercock Gallicrex cinerea: A smart male and drab female in the marshes at Bislig airfield, and also

seen by Bernard at Sabang. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus: Several at Candaba and near Subic.

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Philippine Swamphen Porphyrio pulverulentus: Six at Candaba. ‘Purple Gallinule’ has now been split into several forms and this species is endemic to the Philippines.

JACANIDAE Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus: Around a dozen at Candaba. CHARADRIIDAE Grey Plover (Black-bellied Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: Several at Puerto Princessa and on Pandan

Island Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius: Ten or more near Subic. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus: 20 on the beach at Bislig and a couple on Pandan Island.

Snowy Plover C. nivosus of the new world is probably best treated as a separate species. Malaysian Plover Charadrius peronii: A male and female showed well on the beach at Sabang. Mongolian Plover (Lesser Sand Plover) Charadrius mongolus: At least seven at Puerto Princessa. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii: One on the beach at Bislig, about 30 at Puerto

Princessa (allowing a nice comparison with the previous species) and one on Pandan Island.

SCOLOPACIDAE Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus: One or two at Puerto Princessa, at Sabang and on Pandan Island. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia: One at Candaba and 14 on the beach at Bislig. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola: A few in almost any area of wet paddy. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos: A scatter. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus: One on the beach at Bislig. Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes: Around 10 at Puerto Princessa and a couple on Pandan

Island. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres: Around six at Puerto Princessa. Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura: Around three flushed from the marshes at Candaba and one near

Narra. Swinhoe’s Snipe Gallinago megala: Up to five at Los Banos at the foot of Mt Makiling. Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago: Just one, near Narra on Palawan Bukidnon Woodcock Scolopax bukidnonensis: One seen and another heard at Kitanglad, but not

performing at its best and we had to wait for good views until the third day there. Sanderling Calidris alba: Three on Pandan Island. Rufous-necked Stint (Red-necked Stint) Calidris ruficollis: Around 200 on the beach at Bislig. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta: Four on flooded paddies near Subic. GLAREOLIDAE Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum: Good numbers at Candaba and a few others from the bus

on Luzon. RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus: One from the bus near Narra. LARIDAE Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus: Dozens at Candaba and hundreds over roadside pools between

Subic and Manila. COLUMBIDAE Thick-billed Green-Pigeon Treron curvirostra (H): Heard only on the drive to Sabang.

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Pompadour Green-Pigeon Treron pompadora: Small numbers at PICOP but rather more obvious at Subic.

White-eared Brown-Dove Phapitreron leucotis: Several good views, at Subic, PICOP and Kitanglad. Amethyst Brown-Dove Phapitreron amethystina: Scope views of one at PICOP. Yellow-breasted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus occipitalis: Heard at several sites, then two or three showed

well at PICOP. Black-chinned Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus leclancheri: Seen briefly at Mt Makiling but great views of an

adult at PICOP. Recently determined as being a rare resident on mainland Taiwan, so it now barely qualifies even as a ‘near endemic’.

Pink-bellied Imperial-Pigeon Ducula poliocephala (H): Sadly, only heard at PICOP. These chunky pigeons tend to sit out on snags, making them easy targets for the droves of squatters.

Green Imperial-Pigeon Ducula aenea: Common at Subic, a few at PICOP and several at St Paul’s, Sabang and at Rasa Island on Palawan.

Grey Imperial Pigeon Ducula pickeringii: Two or three on Pandan Island. Pied Imperial Pigeon Ducula bicolor: Common on Pandan Island and one on Rasa Island. Rock Dove Columba livia: None looked very wild, and it is debatable whether we should log them

at all. Philippine Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia tenuirostris: One briefly at Kitanglad, a couple briefly at PICOP

but then great views along the road to Sabang. Island Collared Dove Streptopelia bitorquata: Good looks at five at Candaba. Red Turtle Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica: Four at Candaba and a couple on the roadside as we

entered Subic. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis: Scattered in open country, but especially common at Sabang. Zebra Dove (Peaceful Dove) Streptopelia striata: A good scatter. Common Emerald-Dove (Emerald Dove) Chalcophaps indica: A few at PICOP and on the journey to

Sabang, mostly flying past, but a couple of birds were seen well on the ground. PSITTACIDAE Guaiabero Bolbopsittacus lunulatus: A scatter, with good views at Subic and PICOP. Philippine Cockatoo Cacatua haematuropygia: Great looks at up to eight on Rasa Island. Blue-naped Parrot Tanygnathus lucionensis: One briefly on the Balsahan Trail but then great views of

up to ten at the Zig-Zags. This near-threatened species is almost endemic to the Philippines, but also occurs on small islands off Borneo.

Green Racquet-tail Prioniturus luconensis: Two at Subic, with one showing well in flight. Blue-crowned Racquet-tail Prioniturus discurus: A party of three at PICOP. This species is becoming

ever harder to find, so this was a real stroke of luck. Blue-headed Racquet-tail (Palawan Racquet-tail) Prioniturus platenae: Several seen briefly high over

the Underground River and then nice scope views of a very blue-headed perched bird on Rasa Island.

Colasisi (Philippine Hanging Parakeet) Loriculus philippensis: Good numbers in flowering trees on Mt Makiling and common on Mt Kitanglad.

CUCULIDAE Philippine Hawk-Cuckoo Cuculus pectoralis: One seen in flight at Mt Makiling and one on Mt

Kitanglad. Best treated as a separate (endemic) species due to its unique call and distinctive plumage characters.

Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus: One at Candaba, several heard and one seen briefly at PICOP and several heard on Palawan. The Philippine birds have a distinctive voice, quite different from Borneo and Malaya (although similar to the call on Java).

Rusty-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis: Seen well on Mt Makiling and Mt Kitanglad.

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Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus: One seen in flight at Mt Makiling and great views of both male and female at PICOP.

Drongo Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris: Several seen well at PICOP and also seen near Sabang. The birds on Luzon and Mindanao are sometimes split-off as a separate endemic species: Philippine Drongo Cuckoo S. velutinus (see the Handbook of Birds of the World), but one of the grounds quoted, a distinctive call, is very dubious.

Common Koel (Asian Koel) Eudynamys scolopacea: Commonly heard and one or two seen at PICOP and also heard at several sites on Palawan, including Pandan and Rasa Islands.

Scale-feathered Malkoha Phaenicophaeus cumingi: Good views of two at Mt Makiling and scoped at Subic.

Chestnut-breasted Malkoha Phaenicophaeus curvirostris: Several seen well en route to Sabang and at St Paul’s.

Red-crested Malkoha Phaenicophaeus superciliosus: Three seen superbly at Mt Makiling with two or three more at Subic.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis: Two or three seen briefly on Palawan. Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis: Two or three at Candaba. Philippine Coucal Centropus viridis: A few brief sightings. Black-faced Coucal Centropus melanops: Several showed well at PICOP. The amazing sonorous

hoots are one of the characteristic sounds of PICOP. Rufous Coucal Centropus unirufus: Two seen briefly in flight towards dusk at Subic. TYTONIDAE Australasian Grass Owl (Eastern Grass Owl) Tyto longimembris: One at Bislig Airport showed rather

distantly towards dusk. STRIGIDAE Mantanani Scops-Owl Ous mantananensis: Eventually, at least two showed well on Pandan Island.

Almost endemic to small islands in the Philippines, the species just squeezes onto some offshore islands around northern Borneo,

Palawan Scops-Owl Otus fuliginosus: One seen well near Sabang; the call is an amazingly frog-like croak.

Philippine Scops-Owl Otus megalotis: One showed well on the second morning at Makiling; heard at Kitanglad and PICOP.

Giant Scops-Owl Mimizuku gurneyi (H): Heard at the camp on Kitanglad and at PICOP. Chocolate Hawk-Owl (Chocolate Boobook) Ninox randi (H): Sadly, only heard at PICOP. A recent

split from Brown Hawk-Owl Ninox scutulata of India and South-East Asia (east to Palawan).

Philippine Hawk-Owl (Philippine Boobook) Ninox philippensis: A roosting pair located at Mt Makiling.

Mindanao Hawk-Owl Ninox spilocephala: Good views of a calling bird on the third attempt at PICOP. Usually lumped with Philippine Hawk-Owl, but the birds on Mindanao are small and short-tailed and are vocally distinct.

Spotted Wood-Owl Strix seloputo (H): Heard at dusk en route to Sabang. PODARGIDAE Philippine Frogmouth Batrachostomus septimus: Great views at Kitanglad and heard pre-dawn at

PICOP. Palawan Frogmouth Batrachostomus chaseni: Fantastic views of a calling bird en route to Sabang,

and what a hair-do! Generally considered to be a race of Javan Frogmouth. However, the

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distinct vocalizations of this form definitely warrant it being split-off as Palawan Frogmouth.

CAPRIMULGIDAE Great Eared-Nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis: Heard and seen well at Mt Kitanglad and at PICOP. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus: Showed well at close range at the lodge at Sabang and

also seen along the road nearby and on Pandan Island. Philippine Nightjar Caprimulgus manillensis: Seen well at Mt Kitanglad, sitting on a snag by the

camp, and also a very tame bird on the nest there, right by the trail at the uppermost viewpoint; heard at PICOP.

APODIDAE Island Swiftlet (Uniform Swiftlet) Collocalia vanikorensis: Small numbers at Candaba, Subic and

PICOP. Palawan Swiftlet Collocalia palawanensis: Seen well at the mouth of the Underground River. This

form was previously lumped in Island Swiftlet (above) but several authors, including Sibley & Monroe, split it off as a separate species.

Philippine Swiftlet Collocalia mearnsi: Several at Kitanglad: a small and rather dark swiftlet. Glossy Swiftlet (White-bellied Swiftlet) Collocalia esculenta: Common at most sites. Grey-rumped Swiftlet Collocalia marginata: Seen very well at Subic, where nesting in the old

bunkers, with a few at Mt Makiling around the nursery; the extent of the grey rump seems quite variable. Formerly lumped with Glossy Swiftlet, this form is endemic to the Philippines.

Pygmy Swiftlet Collocalia troglodytes: A swiftlet that we could identify with 100 per cent certainty due to its narrow white rump. Common at PICOP.

Philippine Needletail Mearnsia picina: Several of these strange, leaf-winged swifts were seen well at PICOP.

Purple Needletail Hirundapus celebensis: Good looks at a couple on the last morning at PICOP. House Swift Apus nipalensis: A couple at the Lagawe River. Asian Palm-Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis: One at Los Banos, seen by Bernard on the drive from

Banaue to Subic, and several at the quarry at PICOP. HEMIPROCNIDAE Whiskered Treeswift Hemiprocne comata: Two at PICOP. TROGONIDAE Philippine Trogon Harpactes ardens: Many heard and two or three showed well at PICOP. CORACIIDAE Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis: A couple at PICOP and also seen near Sabang and on Rasa Island

on Palawan. ALCEDINIDAE Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis: Several at Candaba and scattered birds on Palawan. Indigo-banded Kingfisher Alcedo cyanopectus: One on the river at Los Banos, showing especially

well on the second day. Silvery Kingfisher Alcedo argentatus: This beautiful kingfisher was seen at the roadside at PICOP. Stork-billed Kingfisher Halcyon capensis: One at White Beach and one off Rasa Island. Ruddy Kingfisher Halcyon coromanda: One showed well near Sabang and also heard at St Paul’s

and at the Balsahan Trail; we seldom see this species, so a good bonus.

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White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis: A scatter, especially at Los Banos, Subic and PICOP. The birds in the Philippines have hardly any white on the throat.

Rufous-lored Kingfisher Halcyon winchelli: One was scoped at the roadside in PICOP. White-collared Kingfisher (Collared Kingfisher) Halcyon chloris: Scattered, with most on roadside

wires. Spotted Wood-Kingfisher Actenoides lindsayi: One seen nicely at Mt Makiling and many others

heard there. MEROPIDAE Blue-throated Bee-eater Merops viridis: Several at Subic and three on wires as we left PICOP. Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus: Around eight at Candaba and several near Subic. BUCEROTIDAE Luzon Hornbill Penelopides manillae: One seen briefly at Mt Makiling and four seen well at Subic. Mindanao Hornbill Penelopides affinis: Two sightings at Kitanglad, and good numbers at PICOP,

including a flock of at least 30 in isolated roadside trees. Writhed Hornbill (Writhed-billed Hornbill) Aceros leucocephalus: A female showed well at PICOP;

this is a species that may soon be very hard to find if they are all eaten. Palawan Hornbill Anthracoceros marchei (H): Heard along the road near Sabang, but sadly not seen. Rufous Hornbill Buceros hydrocorax: Great views at PICOP, including a party of three adults and a

stripey juvenile; their loud growling barks are one of the great sounds of the Philippines. CAPITONIDAE Coppersmith Barbet (Crimson-breasted Barbet) Megalaima haemacephala: Common at Mt Makiling,

PICOP and Subic. PICIDAE Philippine Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos maculatus: Widespread. Sooty Woodpecker Mulleripicus funebris: One seen and another heard at Subic. Nominate funebris

occurs on Luzon, while the race on Mindanao, fuliginosus, is intermediate in many ways with Ashy Woodpecker M. fulvus of Sulawesi and probably deserves specific status.

Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus: Two or three at the Balsahan Trail. White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis: One seen well at PICOP and several heard and seen

briefly on Palawan; a stunning woodpecker. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus: Two or three at Subic (race erythrocephalus), one at

Kitanglad and common at PICOP, including a party of four there (race montanus). Common Flameback Dinopium javanense: One en route to Sabang; the local race is everetti. EURYLAIMIDAE Mindanao Wattled Broadbill Eurylaimus steerii: Male and female at PICOP, showing well, and even

scoped. PITTIDAE Red-bellied Pitta (Blue-breasted Pitta) Pitta erythrogaster: Good views of one at PICOP and fantastic

looks at St Paul’s. Hooded Pitta Pitta sordida: One seen well near Sabang and also heard at PICOP. Steere’s Pitta Pitta steerii: Great, prolonged views of one at PICOP, perched up on a vine, calling,

with two others seen more briefly.

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HIRUNDINIDAE Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: Abundant. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica: Rather scarcer than its northern cousin, but seen at Los Banos,

Banaue, the Lagawe River, and common on the journey from Kitanglad to Bislig, with a few near Narra on Palawan.

Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata: One seen by Bernard at Banaue and several on the journey from Kitanglad to Bislig.

CAMPEPHAGIDAE Bar-bellied Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina striata: The raucous flight calls alerted us to these uncouth birds

at Mt Makiling, Subic and at PICOP. Blackish Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina coerulescens: Good views of several on both dates at Subic. Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike Coracina mindanensis: Three seen well at PICOP; endemic to the

Philippines. McGregor’s Cuckoo-Shrike Coracina mcgregori: Eventually, excellent views of a pair on Mt

Kitanglad. Black-and-white Triller Lalage melanoleuca: Four seen well at Makiling and two or three at PICOP. Pied Triller Lalage nigra: A female at Mt Kitanglad with good numbers on Pandan Island. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus: Several at Mt Makiling. Fiery Minivet Pericrocotus igneus: Several along the road near Sabang and on the Balsahan Trail. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus: A few at PICOP. The males on Mindanao are orange rather

than red and have a distinctive buzzing call, and are sure to be split in the future. There are three races on Mindanao, our birds were probably gonzalesi.

IRENIDAE Philippine Leafbird Chloropsis flavipennis: Several good views at PICOP. Yellow-throated Leafbird Chloropsis palawanensis: Seen en route to Sabang and showed nicely on

the last morning at the Zig-Zag road. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia: Heard widely on Palawan and seen well at the Zig-Zags on the last

morning. PYCNONOTIDAE Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps: A few at the roadside between Sabang and Puerto

Princessa and common at the Zig-Zags. Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier: Common in scrubby open country and forest edge on

Luzon and Mindanao. Yellow-wattled Bulbul Pycnonotus urostictus: A few at PICOP and Mt Makiling. The spiky crest and

pale eye-ring make this a distinctive bulbul. Olive-winged Bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus: A few in the lodge garden at Sabang. Is this the dullest

of all bulbuls? Grey-cheeked Bulbul Criniger bres: A few on the roadside near Sabang and at St Paul’s and common

at the Balsahan Trail. Sulphur-bellied Bulbul Hypsipetes palawanensis: Several seen well on the drive to Sabang and one

at the Zig-Zags. Philippine Bulbul Hypsipetes philippinus: Common and omnipresent on Luzon and Mindanao. The

song varies from island to island (and even from site to site). Yellowish Bulbul Hypsipetes everetti: Fairly common at PICOP, with a lovely little song.

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16 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

DICRURIDAE Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus: A couple on the road near Sabang and seen well at the Zig-

Zags; the race here is leucocephalus. Balicassiao Dicrurus balicassius: A few at Subic and Mt Makiling. Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus: Common along the road near Sabang and at St Paul’s;

the race here is palawanensis. Spangled Drongo Dicrurus bracteatus: A couple on Mt Kitanglad and common at PICOP; the race

concerned is striatus. ORIOLIDAE Dark-throated Oriole Oriolus xanthonotus: One scoped along the road to Sabang. Philippine Oriole Oriolus steerii: A couple seen at PICOP, with several more heard there. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis: A few at Subic and at PICOP. Philippine Fairy Bluebird Irena cyanogaster: Around three at PICOP. Asian Fairy Bluebird Irena puella: A couple along the road to Sabang. CORVIDAE Palawan Crow Corvus pusillus: Fairly common on Palawan. With its very distinctive voice and

flappy flight, surely a good split. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos: Scattered – a bird that does well in partially deforested

habitats. PARIDAE Palawan Tit Parus amabilis: Great views on the drive to Sabang and also seen well at the Balsahan

Trail. Elegant Tit Parus elegans: Seen at Makiling and Kitanglad. Nominate elegans, the race on Luzon, is

much brighter than mindanensis of Mindanao. White-fronted Tit Parus semilarvatus: A pair at Subic, scoped in the tree-tops, with one singing for

long periods. SITTIDAE Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis: Seen at the Balsahan Trail and at the Zig-Zag road on

Palawan. Sulphur-billed Nuthatch Sitta oenochlamys: This gorgeous nuthatch was seen at Mt Makiling (race

isarog) and at Mt Kitanglad (race apo) RHABDORNITHIDAE Stripe-headed Rhabdornis Rhabdornis mystacalis: Several at Mt Makiling, PICOP and Subic. Stripe-breasted Rhabdornis Rhabdornis inornatus: Just three sitting up on snags on Mt Kitanglad,

where it has become increasingly scarce. TIMALIIDAE Ashy-headed Babbler Malacocincla cinereiceps: Good views near Sabang and also seen briefly along

the Balsahan Trail. Melodious Babbler Trichastoma palawanense: At least six seen well at the Balsahan Trail; these

noisy birds usually prefer to keep to cover and we were lucky to get such good views. Falcated Ground-Babbler Ptilocichla falcate: A pair at the Balsahan Trail, with scope views of a

singing bird. Streaked Ground-Babbler Ptilocichla mindanensis: Eventually, one was seen quite well at PICOP,

circling us at close range.

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Mindanao Pygmy Babbler Stachyris plateni: A couple of parties seen very briefly by Simon at PICOP. Rusty-crowned Babbler Stachyris capitalis: Good views of several at PICOP. Chestnut-faced Babbler (Whitehead’s Tree-Babbler) Stachyris whiteheadi: Common at Mt Polis,

indeed, probably the commonest bird there. Striped Tit-Babbler Macronous gularis: Common on Palawan, but much more often heard than seen. Brown Tit-Babbler Macronous striaticeps: Lots heard and a few seen at Mt Kitanglad and common at

PICOP, chunterring in the undergrowth. TURDIDAE White-browed Shortwing Brachypteryx Montana (H): Heard at Mt Polis and at Mt Kitanglad. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis: A few at PICOP. White-browed Shama Copsychus luzoniensis: Great scope views at Mt Makiling and heard at Subic

and Lagawe; what a beautiful yodelling song. White-vented Shama Copsychus niger: Several around Sabang showing very well, and also seen on

Pandan Island and at the Zig-Zags. Luzon Water-Redstart Rhyacornis bicolor: We walked down to the river for great views of both male

and female at Bay-yo near Mt Polis. Pied Bushchat (Pied Chat) Saxicola caprata: Several at Candaba, Mt Polis and at Bislig airport. Blue Rock-Thrush Monticola solitaris: One at Bay-yo, a couple around Banaue and a female in the

lodge garden at Sabang. The chestnut-bellied race philippensis is a migrant from further north and does not breed in the Philippines apart from on a few northern islets.

Ashy Ground-Thrush Zoothera cinerea: Scope views of one in the middle of the day at Mt Makiling; what luck!

Scaly Ground-Thrush (White’s Thrush) Zoothera dauma: One seen by Simon at Mt Polis. Island Thrush (Mountain Blackbird) Turdus poliocephalus: Several at Mt Polis and also seen high on

Mt Kitanglad. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus: Good numbers at Mt Kitanglad, with great scope views of a

bright male. SYLVIIDAE Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis: A few at Mt Makiling, often picked up by its sharp call, and

also seen at Lagawe. Philippine Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus olivaceus: A couple at PICOP. Mountain Leaf-Warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus: Common at Mt Polis and a few on Mt Kitanglad.

The Philippine birds are very drab compared to elsewhere in SE Asia, but have the same song and calls.

Clamorous Reed-Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus: Several at Candaba and small numbers at Bislig airstrip.

Tawny Grassbird Megalurus timoriensis: Common in open country and seen well at Subic and Kitanglad.

Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris: Commoner and generally a lot easier to see that Tawny Grassbird, with many sightings.

Middendorff’s Grasshopper-Warbler Locustella ochotensis: Heard at Candaba and one seen briefly at Bislig Airport; this species is usually very hard to see.

Philippine Tailorbird Orthotomus castaneiceps: A pair seen well near Banaue. Rufous-fronted Tailorbird Orthotomus frontalis: At the last minute stunning views at PICOP. Grey-backed Tailorbird Orthotomus derbianus: Great views of two on Mt Makiling. Mountain Tailorbird Orthotomus cucullatus: A few at Mt Polis and seen by Paul at Banaue. Rufous-headed Tailorbird Orthotomus heterolaemus: A few seen at Mt Kitanglad and many more

heard there.

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18 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

Rufous-tailed Tailorbird Orthotomus sericeus: Seen at White Beach, a scatter near Sabang and also noted by Bernard in the lodge garden at Narra.

Black-headed Tailorbird Orthotomus nigriceps: Two or three at PICOP, with great views of a male grovelling in the brash.

Bright-capped Cisticola Cisticola exilis: One at the foot of Mt Makiling. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis: Odd birds at Los Banos, Candaba and at Bislig airstrip. Luzon Bush-Warbler Cettia seebohmi: Good views of two or three at Mt Polis. Russet Bush-Warbler Bradypterus seebohmi: Two seen at Mt Polis, with exceptionally good views of

the second. Long-tailed Ground-Warbler (Long-tailed Bush-Warbler) Bradypterus caudatus: One seen creeping

through the undergrowth like at small rat at Mt Polis and heard at Mt Kitanglad. An ace skulker.

MUSCICAPIDAE Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa daurica: Two at Mt Makiling. Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta: A scatter. Mountain Verditer-Flycatcher Eumyias panayensis: Several on Mt Kitanglad. Also found on the

Moluccas and Sulawesi. Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula mugimaki: A nice male on the higher slopes of Mt Kitanglad. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra: Seen by Simon on Mt Polis and also seen on Mt

Kitanglad. Little Slaty Flycatcher Ficedula basilanica: One showed superbly at PICOP. Palawan Flycatcher Ficedula platenae: Good views on the Balsahan Trail. Little Pied Flycatcher Ficedula westermanni: Several at Mt Polis and at Mt Kitanglad. Palawan Blue Flycatcher Cyornis lemprieri: A male showed well near Sabang. MONARCHIDAE Pied Fantail Rhipidura javanica: Two in the garden of the Harbour Lights at Cagayan and also seen at

White Beach and on Pandan Island. Blue Fantail Rhipidura superciliaris: Several at PICOP; these ‘fantails’ do sometimes fan their tails, but

more often wave and gyrate them. Blue-headed Fantail Rhipidura cyaniceps: Two or three at Mt Polis and also seen at Lagawe. Black-and-cinnamon Fantail Rhipidura nigrocinnamomea: Common at Mt Kitanglad; a gorgeous

bird. Rufous Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone cinnamomea: Seen by Paul at Banaue, and several at

PICOP, with scope views of one; another stunner. Blue Paradise-Flycatcher Terpsiphone cyanescens: Seen at St Paul’s but more co-operative on the

road near Sabang. Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea: A scatter, but much more often heard than seen. Short-crested Monarch Hypothymis helenae: Several at PICOP, but again more often heard than

seen. PACHYCEPHALIDAE Green-backed Whistler Pachycephala albiventris: Several seen well at Mt Polis; it is hardly green on

the back. Yellow-bellied Whistler Pachycephala philippinensis: This unobtrusive bird was seen at PICOP. MOTACILLIDAE Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea: Surprisingly widespread.

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Kamchatka Wagtail Motacilla (flava) simillima: Scattered sightings, at Sabang, Bislig airfield and Kitanglad (within the Yellow Wagtail complex, this form is often synonymized with ‘Eastern Yellow Wagtail M. (f.) tschutschensis’).

Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus: One at Candaba and a few on Mt Kitanglad. Olive Tree-Pipit (Olive-backed Pipit) Anthus hodgsoni: A few at Mt Polis. ARTAMIDAE White-breasted Wood-Swallow Artamus leucorhynchus: Scattered, especially on roadside wires. LANIIDAE Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach: A few at Candaba, Mt Kitanglad and on wires on the bus journeys. Mountain Shrike Lanius validirostris: One or two on the second day at Mt Polis and one at the ‘Apo

Wood’ on Mt Kitanglad. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus: Common almost everywhere. STURNIDAE Short-tailed Glossy Starling Aplonis minor: Just a handful at Mt Kitanglad, with good scope views of

two. Asian Glossy Starling Aplonis panayensis: Getting ever commoner at PICOP and small flocks at the

roadside on Mindanao and Palawan, with birds on both Pandan and Rasa Islands. White-shouldered Starling Sturnus sinensis: Three at Candaba were a surprise. Coleto Sarcops calvus: Great views at Subic and PICOP. Bald is beautiful! Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus: A few from the bus at Subic. Introduced to the Philippines. Apo Myna Basilornis miranda: Fantastic views of many of these bug-eyed starlings, complete with

punk hair-dos, on Mt Kitanglad. Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa: Around ten noisy birds along the road near Sabang and heard

in St Paul’s. NECTARINIIDAE Plain-throated Sunbird (Brown-throated Sunbird) Anthreptes malacensis: Scattered in small numbers

at Makiling, PICOP, Sabang and Pandan Island. Copper-throated Sunbird Nectarinia calcostetha: Nice views on the drive to Sabang. Olive-backed Sunbird Nectarinia jugularis: Several at Lagawe and at the foot of Mt Kitanglad (race

jugularis), and widespread on Palawan, where the race aurora has a beautiful orange band across the breast (below the dark throat).

Purple-throated Sunbird Nectarinia sperata: Several at Makiling, PICOP and at the Zig-Zag road. Flaming Sunbird Aethopyga flagrans: Around six at Makiling. Grey-hooded Sunbird Aethopyga primigenius: Several seen well at Mt Kitanglad. Metallic-winged Sunbird Aethopyga pulcherrima: This stunner was seen well at Mt Polis and PICOP. Apo Sunbird Aethopyga boltoni: Two on the upper slopes of Mt Kitanglad, elusive for a long time but

eventually showing very well. Shelley’s Sunbird Aethopyga shelleyi: Good views on Palawan, especially on the drive to Sabang.

Perhaps even lovelier than Lovely (with which it was, until recently, united). Lovely Sunbird Aethopyga bella: Around three seen at PICOP, but none showed very well. Naked-faced Spiderhunter Arachnothera clarae: Two seen well at Mt Makiling and one scoped at

PICOP. Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra: Several seen well on Palawan and a few brief flypasts at

PICOP. The birds on Palawan, race dilutior, have a yellow eye-ring; yet another split in the future?

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20 Birdquest: Philippines 2008

DICAEIDAE Olive-backed Flowerpecker Prionochilus olivaceus: Just one or two at PICOP. Palawan Flowerpecker Prionochilus plateni: Common on Palawan, and seen very well. Striped Flowerpecker Dicaeum aeruginosum: Several on Mt Makiling. Olive-capped Flowerpecker Dicaeum nigrilore: Several at Mt Kitanglad, with some great views. Flame-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum anthonyi: Seen briefly by Simon on the first day at Mt Polis

but great looks at a male on the second day. Bicoloured Flowerpecker Dicaeum bicolor: One briefly at Mt Makiling. Red-keeled Flowerpecker Dicaeum australe: The commonest flowerpecker. Buzzing Flowerpecker Dicaeum hypoleucum: Several at PICOP, where commonly heard buzzing;

the race on Mindanao, pontifex, has dark mouse-brown upperparts and satiny pale grey underparts, a subtle but distinctive combination.

Orange-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma: Abundant in flowering trees at Makiling (race xanthopygium) and several at PICOP (race cinereigularis).

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (Buff-bellied Flowerpecker) Dicaeum ignipectus: Several on Mt Polis and Mt Kitanglad, some showing their lovely satin-red breast (race on Mt Polis luzoniense, while the race on Kitanglad is apo).

Pygmy Flowerpecker Dicaeum pygmaeum: Seen at Lagawe (nominate pygmaeum) and also in mistletoe on the drive to Sabang (race palawanorum).

ZOSTEROPIDAE Lowland White-eye Zosterops meyeni: One scoped in the university campus at Los Banos; this

species is almost endemic to the Philippines. Everett’s White-eye Zosterops everetti: Several sightings at PICOP. Mountain White-eye Zosterops montanus: Small numbers at Mt Polis and common on Mt Kitanglad. Black-masked White-eye Lophozosterops goodfellowi: Around four seen well on Mt Kitanglad, on

the higher slopes. Cinnamon Ibon Hypocryptadius cinnamomeus: Several at Mt Kitanglad. PLOCEIDAE Eurasian Tree Sparrow (Tree Sparrow) Passer montanus: Abundant. ESTRILDIDAE Red-eared Parrotfinch Erythrura coloria: Eventually, three or four seen wonderfully well on Mt

Kitanglad. White-bellied Munia Lonchura leucogastra: Three flew by on Mt Kitanglad and seen briefly at Bislig

airstrip. Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata: Common at Sabang, roosting in the village and feeding

in the paddies by the lodge. Chestnut Munia Lonchura malacca: Especially abundant at Bislig airfield. Previously the national

bird! The race on the Philippines, jagori, has black underparts with chestnut flanks and a narrow, broken chestnut breast-band.

FRINGILLIDAE White-cheeked Bullfinch Pyrrhula leucogenis: Great views on all three days on the higher slopes of

Mt Kitanglad.

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MAMMALS Northern Palawan Tree Squirrel Sundasciurus juvencus: A few at Sabang and St Paul’s. Golden-capped Acerodon (Golden-crowned Flying Fox) Acerodon jubatus: 700 or more in roadside

trees at Subic. An endangered endemic and reputedly the world’s largest bat by weight. Greater Musky Fruit Bat Pterochirus jagori: The small fruit bat at the Eagle Camp appears to be this

species. Endemic to the Philippines. Crab-eating Macaque Macaca fascicularis: An elusive troop at PICOP, and also seen at St Paul’s, the

Zig-Zag road and at Subic. REPTILES Water Monitor Varanus salvator: Several at St Paul’s (they have nostrils near the tip of the snout).

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