TIME TRAVELEn route to historic hotels in SwitzerlandAuthors: Ursula Bauer and Jürg Frischknecht | Photos: Andrea Badrutt

En route to historic hotels in Switzerland Authors: Ursula Bauer and Jürg Frischknecht | Photos: Andrea Badrutt

TIME TRAVEL

Time Travel IFrom the Rhine Falls to the Jungfrau

1010

A roaring beginning and a red carpet ending.Water accompanies us from the Rhine Falls to the Jungfrau ice.

From Eglisau to Kleine Scheidegg

Day one:from the Rhine Falls to Eglisau

“Children, this sight defies description.” Sophie von La Roche then does her best to describe it anyway, a stop on her 1784 Swiss travels. “The glorious river tumbles against two rocks, which stand in the middle, with the rapidity and with the energy and drive of the pursuing waters. Pushing against each other, sideways and back wards, the water foams up like whirling clouds driven by a storm, roiling and plunging into the abyss. My pen cannot write a better description.” Goethe, von La Roche’s friend, laconically opined: “This natu-ral phenomenon will be painted and described quite often enough.” What better way to start a Swiss jour-

ney than with the thundering Rhine Falls. The yellow excursion boats dance across the water like water fleas as they make their way toward the rocks which divide the water and are topped by a viewing plat-form. Japanese, German and Dutch groups stand near the Schlössli Wörth waiting to ride across the waves. From Schaffhausen, it is about an hour’s walk along the right bank of the Rhine to the little castle. Then, the Rhine is at its greenest, green-blue, with the deep green of the forests on either side, as you follow the river to Eglisau. On Sundays an excursion boat makes the trip in three hours. Even here, the Rhine has not been left entirely on its own. Power plants built after World War I have disci-plined the river. The former abbey island of Rheinau, located at a sharp bend in the river, has seen its ca-reer as a psychiatric clinic fade and now looks for-ward to a future as an island for cultural events. The path continues to be idyllic; German soil and Swiss furrows are unconcerned about the confusing border-lines. Hidden amongst the woods, old cement bunkers doze. On the left, the Thur and Töss rivers add to the flowing water. Then, the Rüdlingen and Eglisau vine-yards on the steep sunny slopes come into view.“We saw our first Swiss cows with their cowherds at rest in a lovely spruce forest, when we stopped to have lunch at the Gasthof zum Hirsch. We sat in a very clean room with a view of the Rhine and of the lovely gardens planted on both riverbanks.” We leave Sophie von La Roche now headed to Zurich (where she, like all those on an educational trip at that time, intends to visit Johann Caspar Lavater). She will com-plain about the rough road.

The Rhine Falls, Europe’s largest falls

Stand-up paddlers on the Rhine

12 131312

Coming home?

They swam thousands of kilometers from the sea up the rivers to the spawning grounds

in the waters of their youth: up the Thur into Toggenburg, up the Aare, Limmat and Reuss to

Meiringen, Walensee and Erstfeld, even leaping over waterfalls. But salmon never mastered

the Rhine Falls. Salmon began life in the cool mountain waters, to which they returned after

a brief side-trip to the sea. In the spring the young fish, known as smolt, swam up the Rhine,

followed by the sexually mature salmon in the fall. This cleverest of all game fish can grow to

be 150 cm long and weigh up to 35 kg. The stronghold of salmon fishing was Laufenburg.

Up in Eglisau the ‘Lächset’, autumn salmon fishing, brought in the largest catch – until multiple

power dams and polluted waters ended salmon migration. The last salmon was caught near

Ellikon a century ago. There may be life in the old fish yet. In 2009, a salmon reappeared in

Basel, and in 2012, two of them were spotted in a new fish ladder in Rheinfelden.

Eglisau: for centuries, bridgehead and chokepoint for everything that was on the road from Germany to Zurich and central Switzerland. Also the place for re-loading one of the most valuable goods of its time, salt from Tyrol and Bavaria. The Zurich bailiff sat at Schloss Eglisau. Salomon Landolt was the last to serve here, as the bailiwick was eliminated in 1798. Very sensibly, the unused building served later generations as a quarry.The boat docks at what was Eglisau’s center for centuries, with the salt warehouse and the Rhine bridge (both now demolished), with the church and the Hirschen, now looking better than ever. The old inn was reawakened by textiles entrepreneur Werner Dubno, who has a passion for restoring historic build-ings. Time travel indeed, even from room to room. From Stag Leap to the Swallow’s Nest (you can actu-ally see the nests under the roof of the house on the opposite side of the street), from the Belle Époque Suite to the Festival Suite, an Early Baroque feast for the eyes on the top floor with its rear windows look-

ing out on Untergass and its front windows onto the Rhine. Or vice-versa, as the view of the town used to be considered the more prestigious one. With con-struction of the Rheinsfelden power plant (no, not

Reasons to linger in Eglisau

Vivi or wine? Vivi Kola, once Eglisau’s most famous product, can be sampled in the café of the same name on Untergass. If you prefer your sugar fermented, you can hike along the trail through the vineyards. The cellar of a well-known vintner is open on Saturdays: www.weingut-pircher.ch

Ortsmuseum What role did the salt trade play in Eglisau? How were salmon fished? For the answers, you can visit the local museum on the first Sunday afternoon of the month; google: eglisau ortsmuseum

Fancy the modern age? The train to Schaffhausen takes less than half an hour. The Museum zu Allerheiligen has a fine collection of modern art; www.allerheiligen.ch

Rheinau, the former abbey

Bend in the Rhine at Rheinau

Eglisau

1514

Rheinfelden, which lies 50 kilometers downriver) in 1919, the Rhine level in Eglisau rose 8 meters. The old wooden bridge and the lowest row of houses were sacrificed in the name of progress. Since that time, the Hirschen has stood directly on the water, enabling you, if you wish, to slowly float from the little wood-en public baths to the inn.A Vivi Kola (Eglisau’s answer to Coca Cola) for an aperitif? Or would you prefer a glass of Pinot Gris from the nearby vineyards? The fish will taste deli-cious whether enjoyed outdoors near the river, in the bistro’s winter garden or at the Hirschen’s gourmet restaurant. A feast for all of the senses. The Rhine flows languidly by, a filigree railroad viaduct is stamped on the sky.

Eglisau (ZH), Romantik Hotel Gasthof Hirschen ***www.hirschen-eglisau.ch

The first documentary evidence of the Hirschen in Eglisau dates back to 1523. The largest secular build-ing in this medieval town lies directly on the Rhine, integrated into the lowest row of houses on the river. Over the centuries, the building has been renovated and expanded several times, but its structure and

structural fabric are largely intact. Today the main building houses the restaurant and guest rooms, while a bistro, a lounge and additional apartments are lo-cated in the attached western section. During a 1974 renovation restorers discovered paintings on the fa-çade, which they were able to bring back to life with the help of the cantonal office for the preservation of historic buildings and monuments. They are among the most significant façade paintings in the Canton of Zurich and give the building a special place in the his-toric townscape.Following a change in owners, the new proprietors decided on a comprehensive renovation of the build-ing. Between 2003 and 2007, the interior and façades were carefully renovated and restored. Original fur-nishings were returned to their historic locations within the building and period elements from else-where incorporated into the historical context. At the same time, the new owner furnished the hotel with an impressive collection of valuable furniture. Mod-ern touches have been skillfully integrated. In 2009, Icomos named the Hirschen Historic Hotel of the Year. It has been a member of Swiss Historic Hotels since 2008. (RF)

Day two: from Eglisau to Basel

From Rheinfelden on, we return to our water route – having briefly detoured to the train. Since boats no longer travel directly from Eglisau to Rheinfelden, we took the Swiss S-Bahn to Waldshut and then the Ger-man train (DB) to Rheinfelden. (This little spa on the Swiss side of the Rhine offers saltwater baths.) We glide on towards Basel. First, we are stuck in the Augst locks, then we bob up and down in the Birsfelden locks. In front of us, a Rotterdam freighter is waiting to continue its journey, while a Belgian flag turns up behind us. Here the Rhine opens up into a large river, with river power stations providing a potent backdrop.

Hot springs and salt – may heaven preserve them

Salt was essential. It was necessary for survival. Salt was needed for livestock, for preserving

meat, fish and vegetables and for making cheese. A pinch of salt in soup and bread was also

indispensable. A salt shortage meant starvation. Whoever had salt had power. In 1836, after

16 years of expensive drilling over half of Switzerland, engineer Glenck discovered a major salt

seam in Schweizerhalle. A coup for young Switzerland. Bern and its neighbors would no longer

have to depend on salt from the French salines, while Zurich and Eastern Switzerland would no

longer need salt from Tyrol and Bavaria. Salt consumption per person was around 9–13 kg,

depending on agricultural needs. It was no wonder then that they eagerly kept drilling along

the Rhine. In 1955, there was more reason for rejoicing. Another hot item had been found.

Thermal springs, also a gold mine. The hunger for salt gave birth to the Zurzach spa.Sign of the Gasthof Hirschen

Train viaduct over the Rhine

14

1716

Basel (BS), Hotel Krafft Basel ***S

www.krafftbasel.ch

In 1872, Ernst Krafft replaced three medieval artisans’ houses on the Kleinbasel banks of the Rhine with a new hotel. Over the years the four-story hotel, seven window-axes wide, with its prime location on the Rhine and a view of the cathedral hill had its share of famous visitors. Hermann Hesse (1877–1962) wrote much of Steppenwolf here. After a lean period in the 20th century, during which old hotels were no longer held in high regard, the Krafft was renovated and ex-panded in 1958. Following another standstill, the ho-

tel was taken under the wings of the Edith Maryon Foundation at the initiative of its current leaseholder. With the support of the office for the preservation of historic buildings and monuments, the historic hotel was skillfully renovated over the next few years. The renovation’s main aim was to leave the checkered his-tory of the hotel visible rather than introducing a uni-form style.Since then, Swiss ‘Typenmöbel’ from the 20th century have provided the hotel with an unmistakable atmo-sphere. The hotel’s designation as Historic Hotel of the Year 2007 was a logical consequence of this careful renovation, carried out with much cultural-historical professionalism. The Icomos jury also noted the con-temporary touches added with fresh creativity and particularly the enthusiasm with which the current managers have brightened up and brought back to life this historic city hotel. This success apparently inspired the owners to subsequently take over the neighboring building at Rheingasse 19, location of Kleinbasel’s first Consum store. In 2009, they opened the annex, again very professionally renovated. Modern guest rooms are on the top floors while a popular bar occupies the main floor. The Krafft has been a member of Swiss Historic Hotels since 2005. (RF)

In the distance, the cranes of the Rhine harbor tickle the summer clouds. Soon, there is a golden glow from the other, Kleinbasel bank: Hotel Krafft. A city hotel could not ask for a better location, a worthier vis-à-vis would also be hard to find: the old town with the ca-thedral and the former seat of the centuries-old uni-versity. While at the back sits Kleinbasel, the world of the worker and pub-goer. Between the hotel and the Rhine, people stroll in the shade of the trees. And jog, have a coffee or an aperitif. In summer the swimmers float by, in winter fog steams up from the water. Franz Xaver Leonhardt, the manager of the almost century-and-a-half-old Krafft hotel, wrote in a childhood es-say that he wanted to have a hotel on the water. The

hotel is owned by a Basel foundation which promotes housing and jobs for the socially disadvantaged.The dining room, large and busy even on a normal weekday, discreetly calls to mind the Belle Époque. But historic does not necessarily mean Belle Époque. Stripping away layers to bring back the old is the mot-to here. The Krafft guest rooms, designed with this in mind, are furnished with chairs, tables and lamps dat-ing back to the heyday of Swiss furniture design. Return to modern times in the attic, where Hermann Hesse once worked on his Steppenwolf and where his wife Ruth Wenger and parrot lived. It was not just the Hesses’ relationship which would offer fodder to the film industry; much later parts of Steppenwolf were

Reasons to linger in Basel

City tour on your own with tram 15 (round trip, via Bru-derholz), board at the Mittlere Brücke (tram stop Basel Schifflände).

Harbor circuit by boat On workdays from Basel Schiff-lände round trips to the Rhine harbor [3701]. Or take tram 8 to Basel Kleinhüningen, then walk to the harbor to the Rostiger Anker restaurant; www.rostigeranker.ch

Fondation Beyeler A must for those interested in art and architecture. Take tram 2 to Badischer Bahnhof (Ger-man train station), then take tram 6 to the Fondation Beyeler; www.fondationbeyeler.ch. Afterwards, walk along the Wiesen river towards the city – as far as you like.

Vitra Design Museum Weil am Rhein The museum for industrial furniture design – particularly interesting for Krafft guests. Take bus 55 from Basel Claraplatz or from Badischer Bahnhof (German train station) to Vitra, see www.design-museum.de

Other museums www.basel.com > Kunst & Kultur > Museen

filmed at the Krafft. The hotel bar is on Rheingasse in the inconspicuous hotel annex. The former Consum or grocery store is now an in place to meet, where you can sit (or stand) with a glass of prosecco, white or red wine, enjoy some canapés and chat. The Schwar-zer Bären, where Mr. Krafft worked before opening his own hotel on the Rhine promenade in 1873, is just a few steps away.

Rheinsprung, leading to the Basel cathedral

Krafft Restaurant

Basel, Mittlere Brücke

Staircase at Hotel Krafft

View from the Basel cathedralto the Wettstein Bridge

Day three: from Basel to Solothurn

It’s just a few steps to the ferry that connects the Hotel Krafft with the cathedral; the ferryman turns out to be a ferrywoman. Those at their best in the morning may want to climb the 111 steps to the top of the cathedral tower, while those who are less fit may prefer to walk directly to the train station. Large murals from the 1920s display some highlights of Switzer land to travelers arriving in the main con-course; the white of the Margna glacier in a picture entitled “Lake Sils, Engadine/Graubünden” glitters above us. This glacier has disappeared. If current con-ditions continue, the glaciers on the other murals will also melt away in this century.Sissach, Läufelfingen, Hauenstein: the heart of the Baselland countryside, the gentle Jura hills, capped by light-colored limestone rock. This is where railway history was made with construction of the upper Hauenstein tunnel. No one had ever drilled through an entire mountain range in Switzerland before, and no one, except the engineers, believed that the two teams working from opposite sides of the mountain would actually meet in the middle someday. Construction began in 1853. Using pickaxes and chisels, gunpowder and sledge hammers, the teams worked their way to the center of the mountain, fighting against incoming water. In the most catastrophic fire in the history of Swiss railway construction, 63 workers lost their lives.

20

Mängisch chöme mer bis Olte

The Olten train station opened in 1856, and its restaurant soon became a central fixture in

the life of Swiss national associations. The Swiss Alpine Club (1863), the Free Democratic Party

(1894), the writers’ group Gruppe Olten (1971) were all founded here. “No one can escape

Olten’s pull. It washes conflict into consensus, pours visions into bylaws and absorbs chaos into

a file on a shelf,” wrote NZZ Folio in a tribute. The fight against chaos has not always been

so simple. The Olten Aktionskomitee launched the 1918 general strike, while the Olten Bündnis

took an active role against the WEF in Davos. The Olten city government would have been

glad if these outsiders had acted like the GsoA (Group for Switzerland without an Army),

who were put off by the thought of meeting at the Olten station restaurant; they much

preferred the atmo sphere of the Kreuz cooperative café in Solothurn. “Mängisch chöme mer

bis Olte, das het früener ou öppis golte,” sings the Swiss group Stiller Has. (“Sometime we

make it to Olten, that used to count for something.”) The Olten train station restaurant now

belongs to Italy’s Autogrill Schweiz Inc.