tim toula spire, a better way to diepublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213234.pdf ·...

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AAC Publications Tim Toula Spire, A Better Way To Die Arizona, Sedona Jake Dayley and I made the first ascent of a spire in Mormon Canyon, on the north side of the drainage, directly across from Earth Angel. The route follows a crack system on the west face before traversing to the southwest aspect of the summit block. We placed one bolt at the belay for pitch two and a two-bolt rappel anchor on the summit: A Better Way To Die (2 pitches, 190’, 5.10+ R/X). The climbing is funky, thin, burly, and committing. Props to Jake, who forgot his harness that day in October but still agreed to climb with a bowline tied around his waist. We named the spire after Tim Toula and the route after Tim’s 1995 guidebook to the area, which is famously sparse on information, for those who like a taste of the unknown. “T.N.T.” has left an indelible mark on Sedona climbing with his prolific and bold first ascents. He knows how to “bust a move,” even if the rock is crumbling and the gear is bad. We follow in his footsteps with trepidation and respect! We want this spire to be a tribute to a mentor, inspiration, and friend. – Jake Tipton

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Page 1: Tim Toula Spire, A Better Way To Diepublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213234.pdf · The route follows a crack system on the west face before traversing to the southwest

AAC Publications

Tim Toula Spire, A Better Way To DieArizona, Sedona

Jake Dayley and I made the first ascent of a spire in Mormon Canyon, on the north side of thedrainage, directly across from Earth Angel. The route follows a crack system on the west face beforetraversing to the southwest aspect of the summit block. We placed one bolt at the belay for pitch twoand a two-bolt rappel anchor on the summit: A Better Way To Die (2 pitches, 190’, 5.10+ R/X). Theclimbing is funky, thin, burly, and committing. Props to Jake, who forgot his harness that day inOctober but still agreed to climb with a bowline tied around his waist. We named the spire after TimToula and the route after Tim’s 1995 guidebook to the area, which is famously sparse on information,for those who like a taste of the unknown. “T.N.T.” has left an indelible mark on Sedona climbing withhis prolific and bold first ascents. He knows how to “bust a move,” even if the rock is crumbling andthe gear is bad. We follow in his footsteps with trepidation and respect! We want this spire to be atribute to a mentor, inspiration, and friend.

– Jake Tipton

Page 2: Tim Toula Spire, A Better Way To Diepublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213234.pdf · The route follows a crack system on the west face before traversing to the southwest

Images

Jake Tipton atop Tim Toula Spire after climbing A Better Way To Die (2 pitches, 190’, 5.10+ R/X).

Topo for A Better Way To Die (2 pitches, 190’, 5.10+ R/X) on Tim Toula Spire.

Page 3: Tim Toula Spire, A Better Way To Diepublications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213234.pdf · The route follows a crack system on the west face before traversing to the southwest

Article Details

Author Jake Tipton

Publication AAJ

Volume 57

Issue 89

Page 0

Copyright Date 2015

Article Type Climbs and expeditions