the world of interiors - december 2015

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DECEMBER 2015 THE TRAVEL ISS U E THE TRAVEL ISS U E F rom V enice to Bhutan, Paris to Peru, inner London to Outer Space… TO DECORA TING INFINITY AND BEY OND F rom V enice to Bhutan, Paris to Peru, inner London to Outer Space… TO DECORA TING INFINITY AND BEY OND

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DECEMBER 2015

T H E T R A V E L I S S U ET H E T R A V E L I S S U E

From Venice to Bhutan,Paris to Peru, inner Londonto Outer Space…TO DECORATINGINFINITY AND BEYOND

From Venice to Bhutan,Paris to Peru, inner Londonto Outer Space…TO DECORATINGINFINITY AND BEYOND

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1 0 3 M O U N T S T R E E T L O N D O N

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Design Centre Chelsea Harbour London SW10 0XE Tel 020 7351 5153 samuelandsons.com

I S T R I M.

The Sk y’sthe Limit

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Historic explorers bequeathed their countries something more intangibleand lasting than wealth, resources and tales of derring-do. They broughtback descriptions, in diaries or official accounts, of how new-found peoplesactually lived, alongside trunks laden with captivatingly unfamiliar fabricsand furniture, art and objects. Each fresh discovery ignited a blaze of de-sign assimilation and transformation that explain, perhaps, our own pick-and-mix approach whereby our homes are melting pots of products fromall corners of the globe. So the history of travel goes hand in hand with thehistory of decoration, and cultural cross-fertilisation has brought a wholeworld of interiors within easy domestic reach.

An issue celebrating travel in its many guises is therefore long overdue.Well, no more. The following 211 pages are conceived as a voyage of de-

sign discovery with stop-offs everywhere from Venice to Bhutan, Mexicoto Africa, inner London to outer space… with no queuing at the airport.Some stories, such as the slick country pad embedded in the Chilterns, showhow objects of different ethnicity can sit comfortably together; others, likethe train carriage designed for Napoleon III, take up the theme more obvi-ously. Here, too, is the tent-shaped tomb of that quintessential Victorianexplorer Richard Burton (erected by his widow in deepest, darkest south-west London) and the studio of Julian Barrow – the painter’s exotic viewsgiving global reach to his little corner of Chelsea. The 18th-century Swissartist Jean-Etienne Liotard used his time in Turkey to shrewd commercialadvantage, while Josef and Anni Albers would have remained ignorant ofthe correspondence between Modernist and ancient pre-Columbian pat-terns had they not journeyed south of the Rio Grande.

Naturally, our styling and shopping features are also on board, with a

roundup of accessories for travellers who don’t want to stint on creaturecomforts, fabrics for decorators who refuse to be penned indoors andcontainer-loads of furniture and accessories just docked from Scandi-navia, India and the East. Elements of national dress have even been wit-tily reimagined as upholstery. After all, why settle for a plain slipcoverwhen you could have one with a turban?

There’s a sense of travelling back in time at the restored palazzo over-looking the Grand Canal, and you will be rocketed to the future by theotherworldly pictures of the European Space Agency. Yes, travel contin-ues to inform, inspire and broaden the horizons, even if today we bringback our quarry using iPhones and easy-stow holdalls rather than thenotebooks and packing crates of old.

To some extent, all the interiors we create represent a sort of journey– a quest to create a place where we can be ourselves. The fashion photo-grapher Deborah Turbeville found her spiritual home in a semi-derelictMexican town house: Casa No Name. And who knows what Miss Shep-herd thought of her surroundings, ensconced in a custard-yellow van inthe small Camden Town driveway of writer Alan Bennett. She certainlyfelt at home, as the new film of his memoir reveals (having come for threemonths, she stayed for 15 years). Their unconventional relationship wasits own voyage of discovery, Bennett only finding out after her death thatthis hard-to-like vagrant had once been a concert pianist. The only ironyof her appearance in this travel issue? The fact that, once parked in thedrive, the wheels of her van never rolled again $

RUPERT THOMAS, EDITOR

INTRODUCTIONTHE TRAVEL ISSUE

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Paint Stripe by

555 King’s Road, London, SW6 2EB124 Holland Park Avenue, London, W11 4UEHarrods Brompton Road, London, SW1X 7XL

T +44 (0) 20 7229 5148

www.therugcompany.com

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24 ANTEN NAE What’s new in travelling style, decorationand design, chosen by Nathalie Wilson

31 ANTENN AE ROUND UP Our selection of the best little luxuries forlife on the road

40 COSTUME DRAMATIST Western lovers of Turkish fancy dress had their very own portraitist, says Briony Llewellyn

53 BOOKS Damian Thompson’s Christmas round-up

66 BAUHAUS BELOW THE BORDER Anni and Josef Albers saw ‘the Modern’ in pre-Columbian cultures. Text: Charles Darwent

74 IMMOBILE HOME The Lady in the Van is now a film – Alan Bennettrecalls the abode fixed for years in his driveway

83 SERIOUS PURSUITS Auctions, antique fairs and diverting activities

84 OUT AND ABOUT Need to be navigated through hardy outdoorfabrics? Miranda Sinclair leads the way

98 OUT OF THE BOX From African to Nordic styles, Max Eggerunpacks a world’s worth of furniture

109 NETWORK

Merchandise and events worldwide

114 ADDR ESS BOOK Suppliers in this issue

136 DRESS PARADE

National costumes inspire Jessica Hayns toa decorator’s carnival of cultures

192 INSPIRATION How to recreate some of the designeffects in this issue, by Augusta Pownall

196 EXHIBITION DIARY Calder’s world in motion, Melville onthe Med, plus Charlotte Edwards’s listings

216 JOURNAL OF A PHOTOGRAPHER Magnum man Chris Steele-Perkins portrays allof London’s nationalities in their own homes

INTERIORS

118 ITALIAN JOB?

This ‘third-millennium interpretation’ of theGeorgian tradition is, curiously, a steel-and-glass cube nestled high in the Chilterns. LeeMarshall indulges in some worldly time travel

144 JOURNEY’S END A suburban churchyard seems a banal restingplace for Victorian explorer Sir Richard Burton– though his mausoleum, styled like a deserttent, is anything but, as Tim Beddow reports

150 MOVEABLE FEASTS

Globetrotting collector Victoria Press filled herGrand Canal palazzo with the city’s finest crafts.‘To save Venice, you need to save the Venetians,’her daughter explains to Marella Caracciolo

160 HIDDEN DRAGON

Billboards, smoking and traffic lights arebanned in Bhutan, and at this farmhouse highup in the Himalayan kingdom, the rest ofthe world feels very far away. Text: Robin Muir

176 MAJESTY IN MOTION

Nineteenth-century monarchs travelled insplendour, as this dainty model of NapoleonIII’s train carriage shows. Finding it in a fabrichouse’s archive, Marie-France Boyer goes loco

182 DESTINATION UNKNOWN

Straw Christs and papier-mâché devils vie forwall space in the Mexican casa of DeborahTurbeville, a jet-setting photographer whoprobed fashion’s dark side. Text: Robin Muir

ART & ANTIQUES

128 WINDOW ON THE WORLD

The late Julian Barrow took an easel on foreigntrips, hanging the finished work in his grandChelsea studios, formerly occupied by Sargentand Whistler. Peter York enjoys the views

168 LIGHT TRIP FANTASTIC The European Space Agency offered artphotographer Edgar Martins unparalleledaccess to its research stations and astronauttraining centres. Stephen Patience sees stars

CONTENTSDECEMBER 2015

COVER The Bhu tan clan – r ural set tlements inthe Himalayan foothills, with their prayer drumsand painted rafters, are normally hidden from theoutside world. We take the rap for exposing oneto view, on page 160. Photograph: Tim Walker

Periodicals postage paid at Rahway, NJ. Postmaster: Send a ddresscorrections to ‘The World of Interiors’ c/o Mercury Airfreight Inter-national Ltd Inc, 2323 Randolph Avenue, Avenel NJ 07001, ‘The World ofInteriors’ (ISSN 0264-083X) is published monthly. Vol 35 no 12, total 399

SUBSCRIPTIONS AND BACK ISSUES Receive 12issues delivered direct to your home address. Call01858 438815 or fax 01858 461739. Alternatively,you can visit us at www.worldofinteriors.co.uk

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THE NUMBER ONE DESTINATION TO SOURCE THE ULTIMATE DESIGN PRODUCTS FOR THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS INTERIORS .OVER 6 00 INTERNATIONAL BRANDS , 105 SHOWROOMS , ONE ADDRESS

A WORLD OF INSPIRATION

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Lots R oad, London S W10 0X E

www.dcch.co.uk

ABB O TT & B OYD ALTFIELD A L T ON- BR OOKE ANN SACKS AR M A NI/ CA S A A ZUCENA AT GMR BA KE R LIFES T YLE BAKER

B E AC ON H ILL BELLA FIGURA B ESSELINK & JONES BLACK & KEY BR I A N Y AT ES BRUNSCHWIG & FILS C & C MIL A NO

CASSINA CHAP LINS CHASE ERWIN CHR IS T O PH E R GUY CHRISTOPHER HYDE LIGHTING CHR IS T O PH E R P E AC O C K

CLIVE CHRISTIAN C OLE & SON COLEFAX AND FOWLER C OLONY CREATION BAUMANN CR ES TR ON DAVID SEYFRIED LTD D A VIDSON DECCA ( BOLIER ) DE C O R US DEDAR EDELM A N LE ATH E R EVITAVONNI FENDI CA S A FLEXFORM FOX LIN T ON

FROMENTAL G A LLO TT I& RA DI C E GLADEE LIGHTING G P & J BA KE R HARLE Q UIN IN T E R DESIGN INTERIOR SUPPLY

J . R O B E RT S C O TT JACARANDA CARPETS J A SON D’SOUZ A JEAN MONRO K RA VE T LEE JOFA LELIEV R E LEWIS & WOOD

LIZZO MARVIC TEXTILES M C KINNON A ND HARR IS MULBERRY HOME N A D A DESIGNS THE NAN Z COMPANY NI CH OL A S

HA SL A M L T D NINA CAMPBELL NO B ILIS ORIGINAL BTC P IE RR E F R EY POLIFORM P OL TR ON A F RA U PORADA P O RTA

R OM A N A RAMM , SON & CROCKER R EM A INS LIG HT ING R .I.M TILE BOUTI Q UE R O B E RT A LLEN ROMO R U B ELLI/DONG H I A

SA BAXTER ARCHITECTURAL HARDWARE S AHC O SAMUEL HEATH S A MUEL & SONS PA SSEMEN T E R IE SANDERSON TH ESILK G A LLE R Y SIMPSONS MIRRORS & FURNITURE S TAR K CARP E T STARK FABRIC S T UDIO T EX SUMMIT FURNITURE S W D TAI PING CARPETS THR E A DS AT G P & J BA KE R TIM PAGE CARPETS T ISSUS D’ H ELENE TOP FLOOR BY ESTI .RUGS & WOOD T UFENKI A N ART IS A N CARP E T S TURNELL & GIGON T U R NELL & GIGON AT H OME TURNSTYLE DESIGNS

V A UG HA N VIA ARKADIA ( TILES ) VI CT O R I A + A LB E RT BATH S WATTS OF WESTMINSTER W EMYSS WHISTLER LEATHER

W IR ED C US T OM LIG HT ING WOOL CLASSICS ZIMME R + R O H DE ZOFFANY

ACC ESSO R IES BATHROOMS CARP E T S A ND R UGS CURTAIN POLES AND FINIALS F ABR IC S FURNITURE

HAR D WAR E KITCHENS AND BATHROOMS LIFES T YLE T E CH NOLOGY LIGHTING OU T DOO R FU R NI T U R E A ND

F ABR IC PAINT T ILES TRIMMINGS AND LEATHER WA LL C OVE R INGS

L O N D O Ndesign centre

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F E L I X 0 3

W i g m o r e

S t r e e t

W 1

· H a r r o

d s

S W 1

· K i n g

’ s R o a d

S W 1 0

+ 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 4 9 3 4 4 4 4

F r o m

£ 7 , 5 0 0 t o

£ 1 2 5 , 0 0 0

The world’s most comfortable bed, hand made in London

VOGUE HOUSE HANOVER SQUARE LONDON W 1S 1JU TEL 020 7499 9080 A DVERTISING F AX 020 7493 4723

THE WORLD OF INTERIORS (ISSN 0264-083X) is published monthly by The Condé Publications Ltd, Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JU. Telephone 020 7499 9Fax 020 7493 4013. ©2008. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without wpermission is strictly prohibited. Printed in the UK by Wyndeham Roche Limited. Colorigination by Tag: Response. Distributed by Comag Ltd. ‘The World of Interiors’ is a registrade mark belonging to The Condé Nast Publications Ltd. Subscription rates (per yearpostage) : UK £59.88. USA (air-assisted periodicals postage) $99; postmaster Vogue c/o MerAirfreight International, 365 Blair Rd, Avenel, NJ 07001. Europe (airmail) EU 99 euros, outsid£80. Rest of World (airmail) £99. Subscription enquiries, change of address and orders payablThe World of Interiors, Subscription Department, Tower House, Lathkill St, Market HarborouLeics LE16 9EF (01858 438815). Orders on www.subscription.co.uk/woi. Subscriptions enquon [email protected]. Subscriptions hotline: 0844 848 5202, open Mon8am-9.30pm, Sat 8am-4pm. Manage your subscription online 24 hours a day by logging owww.subscription.co.uk/help/condenast. The paper used for this publication is recyclable and mfrom renewable fibrous raw materials. It has been produced using wood sourced from sustainmanaged forests and elemental or total chlorine-free bleached pulp. The producing mills have thparty certified management systems in place, applying standards such as ISO 9001 and ISO 14001magazine can be recycled either through your kerbside collection, or at a local recycling point. Loto www.recyclenow.com and enter your postcode to find your nearest sites.

Rupert Thomas

Jessica Hayns

Mark Lazenby

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Patrick Foilleret (Director)Ellie Crane (Manager)Claudia Long (Assistant Marketing andPromotions Manager)Michelle Velan (Marketing andPromotions Manager)Anthea Denning (Creative Design ManaGareth Ashfield (Senior Marketing DesigThe World of Interiors, Freepost PO Box Boone, Iowa 50037-2861 (Tel: 888-737-9

E-mail: theworldofinteriors@subscription

EDITOR

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

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SENIOR EDITORIAL STYLISTEDITORIAL STYLIST

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PRODUCTION DIRECTORPRODUCTION MANAGER

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s m e g

. c o m

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A handcrafted masterpiece created in collaboration with

Maestro blacksmith Giancarlo Candeago in Cortina, Italy.

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30 yearsTAGLIATELLEDiamond, gold andsilver rings

Cassandra Goad 147 Sloane StreetLondon SW1X 9BZTel: 020 7730 2202

cassandragoad.com

VOGUE HOUSE HANOVER SQUARE LONDON W 1S 1JU TEL 020 7499 9080 A DVERTISING F AX 020 7493 4723

Directors: Jonathan Newhouse (Chairman), Nicholas Coleridge,Stephen Quinn, Annie Holcroft, Pam Raynor, Jamie Bill,

Jean Faulkner, Shelagh Crofts, Albert Read, Patricia Stevenson

CHAIRMAN CONDÉ NAST INTERNATIONAL Jonathan Newhouse

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Katherine Weekes (Senior Sales Executive

Jean Faulkner

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Tim Dickinson (Media Research Manager

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Heather Mitchell (Account Director)

Krystina Garnett (Senior Sales Executive)

Tel: 020 7152 3276.

Alexandra Bernard

(Tel: +33 5 5652 5761. Fax: +33 5 5652 5

E-mail: [email protected]

Cesare Fiorucci

Carlo Fiorucci

(Tel: +39 0362 232210. Fax: +39 0362 32

E-mail: [email protected])

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F U R N I S H I N G F A B R I C S A N D W A L L P A P E R S

H E R M È S D R E S S E S T H E H O M E

Furnishing faband wallpaper showrooms o

homefabrics.hermes.co

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antennae

1 Having grown up in British Raj cantonments, campaign furniture is as

familiar to the Guram brothers as

three-piece suites are to the rest

of us. That explains why their

reproductions are so superb. Shown from

left: ‘Cunningham Roorkhee’ chair, which is

available in leather (pictured) or canvas

with a carry bag (from $625), and

‘Dufferin’ folding travel hanger

set ($145). Ring 00 91 981 857

5847, or visit jandrguram.com.

2 With stationery ranges like ‘Grand

Tour’, featuring vintage maps of European cit-ies, Fabriano Boutique will surely find its way to

becoming an enduring business. It might even

catch up with founder-company Fabriano’s

current 751 years in the paper-making indus-try. From £7.86 for a bookmark. Ring 00 39 04

58 08 78 88, or visit fabrianoboutique.com.

3 Want to see these aeroplane-shaped paper-clips (£3.61 approx for eight) taxiing onto your

desk? Then get yourself on board a flight to

Paris’s Merci. Alternatively, ring 00 33 1 42 77

00 33, or visit merci-merci.com.

4 Do away with the usual disposable table-ware for picnic trips in favour of Wasara’s

chic, fully compostable alternative, which

is moulded from bamboo and bagasse, a

by-product of sugarcane juice. From £2.72

approx for a pack of six square ‘Kaku’ or round

‘Maru’ plates with curved edges for easy grip-ping. Ring 00 81 3 63 83 26 31, or visit wasara.jp.

5 Appropriately, the waxed cotton that covers

Fox & Hardy’s ‘Millerain’– the latest incarna-tion of its reproduction steamer trunk – has its

own seafaring association: early 19th-century fishermen also waterproofed their sail-canvas

coats. Surely, then, this range of luggage is a

must for anyone thinking of taking to the high

seas. Available in ten colours, prices start at

£390 for a 48.5 × 22.5 × 33cm model. Ring 020

3727 7262, or visit foxandhardy.com.

6 Travel-weary and simply want to put your

feet up in front of the television? Electronics

not being their usual area of design, Ronan and

What ’s ying through the air this month, asks N athalie Wilson

1

2

3

4

5

24

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Erwan Bouroullec’s ‘Serif’ TV, which the

French duo has designed for Samsung, is

particularly interesting – it resembles a

picture frame when sitting on its base, and a space lander when on its legs. The

rear fabric panel ensures it’s easy on

the eye from all angles, while a unique

‘curtain mode’ (a transition screen between

standby and normal viewing) provides unob-trusive silent content. From £499 for a 24in

mini version. Visit seriftv.com

7

Who

needs

to

have

the

world

at

their

feet

with Benoît Vieubled’s ceiling lights suspended

overhead? Shown from left: ‘Fiat Lux !’(£1,296

approx) and ‘Terre à l’Endroit, Terre à l’Envers’ (£529 approx for a five-globe version). Ring 00

33 2 38 43 50 32, or visit benoit-vieubled.com.

8 Eddy Dankers, royal warrant-holding art-ist to the Belgian court, and Thierry Thenaers,

master painter and designer of sets and interi-ors, travelled back in time to rediscover the art

of the painted ceiling canvas, creating spec-tacular artworks that range from facsimiles of historic designs to ultra-modern ones. Because

they’re applied to finely woven Belgium linen rather than directly onto plaster, installation is

speedy and cracks can be consigned to the past.

From £300 per sq m. Ring Volta on 00 32 477

944514, or visit voltaceilings.com.

9 The Tillier family casts light on previous

generations’ excursions to far-flung and exotic

destinations, among other subjects: from

their workshop in Paris they make lamp-shades by hand, using reproduction 18th-,

19th- and 20th-century illustrations. From

£71 approx each. Ring 00 33 46 33 02 56, or visit tillierdecoration.wordpress.com.

10 Stargazing apparatus has moved on some-what since Galileo peered into the night sky through his Renaissance spyglass. However,

with this model – named after the great astro-nomer – designer Odo Fioravanti has recreated

the simplicity of that early device, using the

same ‘friendly touch’ material: wood (in this

case, beech and oak). ‘Galileo’s’ telescope, £267

approx. Ring Palomar on 00 39 055 212160, or

visit palomarweb.com. r

6

7

8

9

10

2

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antennae

1 Made from cherry, oak and hornbeam grownin the Southwest, and constructed by hand inFrance, Hauser & Wirth Somerset’s bespokewooden pocket knife (top; £70) and corkscrew(£80) have had quite a journey. Created in col-laboration with longstanding cutler Laguiole,they’re now back on home turf, available in therural gallery’s estate shop. Ring 01749 814060,or visit hauserwirthsomerset.com.

2 Erika Lassen has been making hand-embroi-dered textiles for 20 years, and her delightful

‘Skier’ table range in cotton or linen is worth sla-loming round obstacles to get your woolly mittson. From £11 approx for a 40sq cm napkin.Ring 00 49 8152 79617, or visit eri-textiles.com.

3 ‘Maps are more useful to navigate from Ato B, but globes provide the inspiration for the journey in the first place,’ says Peter Bellerby,the self-taught founder of Bellerby & Co Globe-makers. His models are handcrafted and paint-

ed to order by a small London teamaccording to each customer’s re-quirements. Prices start at £999for a 23cm-diameter mini desk

globe. Ring 020 8800 7235, or visitbellerbyandco.com.

4 Luckies of London has the per-fect cardboard smartphone pro- jector with which to view your hol-iday snaps and videos, whether you happen to be a do-i t-your-self kind of person (£17.95; blackfinish) or prefer your products tocome ready-assembled (£21.95;brown). Ring 020 8964 8877, or visit luckies.co.uk.

5 Prefer sleeping in your ownbedding when you’re on the road?Norvegr’s travel set is for you. Thesingle duvet, pillow and requisitecovers (the latter have been madeby luxury hotel supplier TradeLinens) come in a leather holdall,available in three colours: yoursfor £880 (canvas versions comingsoon, for £630). Ring 00 47 72 9004 35, or visit norvegr.com $

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S a l e s E n q u i r i e s 0 1 2 0 2 2 6 6 8 0 0 m u l b e r r y h o m e

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BOHEMIAN TRAVELSWINNER The World of Interiors Collection of the Year 2015

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antennae rou n dupLooking to join the jet set? Then pack one of Miranda Sinclair’s little luxuries in your luggage

1 Air-safe travel manicure set, £198, Czech & Speake. 2 Waterproof Bluetooth wireless speaker, £37 approx, Merci. 3 Travel adapter, £33 approx,

Nomess. 4 Wool/cashmere travel set, by Armand Diradourian for Elton John Aids Foundation, £385, Mr Porter. 5 From top: ‘Tow the Line Original

Explorer’ tent’, £295; ‘London Brick Snoos’ pillow, £14.95; both Fieldcandy. 6 Marbled enamel dinner plates (from top: burgundy; navy), £8.50

each, Labour and Wait. 7 ‘Expedition’ waterproof notebook, $9.95 per pack of three, Field Notes. 8 ‘Plane’ bag, £13 approx, Perigot. Prices

include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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MILAN PARIS LONDON NEW YORK MIAMI LOS ANGELES

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antennae rou n dup

1 Travelling shoe-care set, £815 approx, Cedes Milano. 2 Clockwise from top left: brass compass and clip, $36; match safe, $9; brass ‘MMR-X’

flashlight, $164; all Best Made Company. 3 Ivory ‘Safari’ collection (from top: 71cm suitcase, £1,255 ; vanity case, £525 ), Globe-Trotter. 4 White

folding camp bed, by Topos Workshop, £650, Holloways of Ludlow. 5 Picnic hamper, by Flamant Interiors, £83, Amara. 6 ‘Oceano’ bedroom trunk,

by Andrée Putman, £11,352, Poltrona Frau. 7 ‘Belair Jetsetter’ instant-camera kit, £296, Bear and Bear. 8 ‘Objets Nomades’ folding table , by

Christian Liaigre, £24,670, Louis Vuitton. Prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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antennae rou n dup

1 ‘Panama’ currency zip case, £185, Smythson. 2 Map, by Crumpled City, £8.90 approx, Palomar. 3 Eyemask (from top: ‘Brush Stripe’; blush with

royal blue contrast), £40; Sundays London. 4 Neon leather luggage tags, by Undercover, £9.50 each, Designers Guild. 5 ‘Lemon’ travel towel,

£33.20 approx, By Johanne. 6 Travel pillow, £100 approx, Hästens. 7 ‘660’ folding chair, by Adico, £188, Twentytwentyone. 8 Perforated-calfskin

‘Magellan’ passport holder, £415, Hermès. Prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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1 ‘Vieillard’ tin plates (from left: ‘Bird’; ‘Pheasant’) , £9 approx each, Au Bain Marie. 2 Handmade canvas range tent, $619, Kaufmann Mercantile.

3 Classic flask, by Stanley, £22.95, Divertimenti. 4 Storm lantern, by Feuerhand, £20, Objects of Use. 5 Suede-and-cashmere sleeping bag, by

The Elder Statesman, £7,134, Farfetch. 6 ‘Snapwire’ folding titanium cutlery, £6 per piece, Alpkit. 7 ‘Travelling Greyhound’ sofa, £12,300, Howe.

8 Campfire cooker, from £93.50, Pedlars. Prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book $

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®

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Jean-Etienne Liotard’s taste for painting himself and his subjects dressedJoshua Reynolds, but, as an exhibition at the Royal Academy reveals, the

Dressed as a well-heeled Turkish woman,Hélène Glavani, the daughter of the Frenchconsul in the Crimea, plays the tanbur for thethe English merchant Francis Levett (1740)

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COSTUME DRAMATISTà la turque drew a sneer fromgrand travellers of 18th-century Europe couldn’t get enough of his vibrant, exotic style. Text: Briony Llewellyn r

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COSTUME DRAMATIST

Top: a matron reclines, about to sip the çay (tea) that her maid has brought her (c17 40-42). Liotard’s skill in using black and red chalks toconvey the pattern and texture of different fabrics is supremel y evident . Above: doubt surrounds the identit y of this sitter, said to be Grand9 L] LHU + HNLP RáJ OX $OL 3 DVKD +DYLQJ D :H VWHUQDUWLVWSDLQW KLVSRUWUDLW ZRXOG KDYH EHHQD P DUNRI VWDWXVLQ7 XUNLVK VRFLHW\ F

HE LOO KS to the left, his head and shoulders seen

in profile within a small oval frame, for all the world like a Ren-aissance commemorative medal. Yet this is no 15th-centuryItalian potentate, fashioned in bronze, but an 18th-century Swissartist, Jean-Etienne Liotard (1702-89) – a self-portrait, paintedin glowing enamels. Silhouetted aga insta white background, he wears a crimson-red gown and a slightly darker felt cap, acontrast to the softer, greying wisps of hishair and long beard. The effect is startling,especially given its small size, pulling himout from the confines of the elliptical bor-der to transmit an almost tactile presence.

Painted in mid-career, in the medium inwhich he had first trained, this is the imageLiotard seems to have chosen to launch hisentry into the London art scene in 1753. Hisadoption of the unconventional ‘Oriental’garb was, at least in part, a self-promotionalploy – although one gets the strong impres-sion that he enjoyed wearing the sumptu-ous, loose-fitting robes and the distinctivefelt or fur caps. He had already garnered areputation as an ‘exotic’ individual on the

strength of earlier, similar portrayals: one, painted in 1744, had

been acquired for the collection of artists’ self-portraits assem-bled by the grand dukes of Tuscany at the Uffizi in Florence. Bythen, travellers to the eastern Mediter ranean had fostered Britishinterest in the culture of the Ottoman empire, helping to fuel the

Rococo craze for turquerie. Liotard exploit-ed the burgeoning fashion for dressing à laturque to the full – not exactly Turkish, infact, but a mix of costumes including somefrom Moldavia, then under Ottoman rule.

No less a personage than the connois-seur and aesthete Horace Wal pole was dulyfascinated, even as he was acutely aware ofLiotard’s brazen self-promotion. ‘Fromhaving lived at Constant inople, he wearsa Turkish habit and a beard down to hisgirdle… This and his extravagant prices,which he has raised even beyond what heasked at Paris, will probably get him as muchmoney as he covets, for he is avariciousbeyond imagination.’ Amusingly, Walpolefound the exquisite enamel so compellingthat he overcame his scruples and acquiredit for his own collection. r

P R E V I O U S P A G E S : M

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. P H O T O © R M N - G R A N D P A L A I S ( M U S E E D U L O U V R E ) / F R A N C K R A U X . T H I S P A G E , T O P : M U S E U M O S K A R R E I N H A R T , W I N T E R T H U R

. P H O T O S I K - I S

E A / P H I L I P P

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A T I O N A L G A L L E R Y

, L O N D O N

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WWW.LUK EIRWIN.COM2 0 – 2 2 P I M L I C O R O A D L O N D O N S W 1 W 8 L J + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 7 3 0 6 0 7 0

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COSTUME DRAMATIST

Capitalising on his reputation as ‘Le Peintre Turc’ did not rele-gate Liotard to the margins of the artistic establishment. Nothingif not versatile, he received commissions from many members ofBritish society, including the royal family. The young JoshuaReynolds felt the need to sniff at theSwiss artist’s appearance and behav-iour as the ‘very essence of Imposture’,clearly anxious to counter the compe-tition in the portraiture market. But whileReynolds’s grandiloquent oil portraitsof the aristocracy ensured him an en-during fame, the posthumous reputa-tion of Liotard, resting as it does on hisdelicate, life-like pastels, has fared lesswell. Yet it is that close scrutiny of hissubjects, rendering them seeminglywithout flattery and without the weightof classical references, that appeals so

strongly to a 21st-century aesthetic. For Walpole, ‘Truth prevailedin all his works, grace in very few or none’: for us that candour,cutting to the essence of a character, is mesmerising.

Among the reasons for the dwindling of his renown afterhis death, as explained in the splendidcatalogue accompanying the currentexhibition at the Royal Academy, arehis diversity as an artist and his peri-patetic career, which has meant that noone country has celebrated him as itsown: born in Geneva, he travelled toand found employment in many of thecapitals of Europe. What has remaineda significant factor in his current lega-cy, setting him apart from many of hiscontemporaries, was his extended stayin Constantinople. He journeyed therein 1738 as draughtsman to two young r

Top: dressed in sumptuous Turkish garments, an unknown woman reclines upon a sofa in Eastern st yle, yet the book she is reading is openat a page headed ‘ Virtue’ and the painting was ver y likel y made in P aris (17 48-52) . Above: an example of the cultural diversit y of Pera inConstantinople – the musicians are clearl y Turkish, but the y are pla ying W estern violins, presumabl y for a European audience (17 40-42) T

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COSTUME DRAMATIST

Top left: the contrast between the W estern dress of the French consul in Sm yrna and the wa y he reclines in Eastern st yle is striking (17 38). Top right: the lad y is now identified as Laura Tarsi, an acquaintance of Liotard in Constantinople . She was once thought to be the mistress ofthe Marquess of Granb y (c1741). Above: Richard Pococke was one of the most academicall y distinguished travellers of the 18th centur y (1740)

British aristocrats, the Hon William Ponsonby, Viscount Dun-cannon, and John Montagu, Fourth Earl of Sandwich, who wereon an extension to the more usual Italian Grand Tour. The threetook up residence in Pera, the European part of the city. Theirhedonistic way of life was remarked on by a later traveller: ‘Thepleasures of the table are well understood and frequent and

scarce an evening passes without balls, concerts or assembliesat all of which the intercourse between thesexes is as easy as can be wished.’

In Pera, Liotard painted his two pa-trons in the splendid Turkish costume thatthey had adopted for reasons of both expe-diency and vanity, and a year later he re-ceived a commission to paint the portraitof another intrepid traveller and pioneerarchaeologist, Richard Pococke, whose ADescription of the East and Some Other Countries,did much to increase European know ledgeof the Ottoman empire. Encouraged bythe patronage of the British ambassador,Sir Everard Fawkener, and, perhaps, capi-talising on a gap in the market left by thedeath of another successful European art-ist working in the Ottoman capital, JeanBaptiste Vanmour, Liotard remained inConstantinople for another four years afterhis original patrons continued on theirtravels, securing commissions for the por-traits of several European ambassadors.

Quite different from Liotard’s flashy oil paintings of cultur-ally cross-dressing British aristocrats are a group of remarkabledrawings in black and red chalk, depicting members of the cos-mopolitan community in Pera: women embroidering, music-ians, a dwarf, as well as grand ladies. Liotard’s relationship withthese individuals, both Turkish and European, is not known, but

his engagement and empathy with them are apparent. We knownothing of the stories behind the works Mademoiselle Beli or Young Woman of Const-antinople: probably Greek or Frank (theTurkish term for foreigners), they are littlemore than children, the elaborate costumewith which they are adorned heighteningthe vulnerability that Liotard conveys intheir faces. In Maid Serving Tea, where laterOrient alist artists would portray the servinggirl as a black slave, here we have a whiteservant, whose demeanour is by no meanssubservient to that of her haughty mistress.The absolute integrity of his portrayal ofthese two women, without the distortionof a Western lens, creates a palpable senseof the relationship between them. ‘Mygreatest pleasure,’ he wrote later, ‘is to tryto think purely, naturally and without prej-udice of any kind’ $

‘ Je an -E ti en ne Li ot ar d’ ru ns at th e Ro ya l Academy of Arts, London W1 (020 7300 8000royalacademy.org.uk), until 31 Jan

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Charn w oo d stov es emplo y the latest clean -burn techno logy. This season sees the launc h of a newran g e of rep lace sur roun ds and w all cladding in lux urious v itreous enamel. ‘Vlaze’pane ls, the mate-ria l used f or London Underg roun d’s sig nag e, are a new tak e on Victo rian tiles, and the ran g e includes an ex clusiv e new collaboration w ith Transport f or London and Michelle Mason . Show n here, f romlef t: ‘Vlaze Piccadilly’ heat shield, £720; ‘Tor Pico’

in black, £2,520; ‘Island II’ in almond, £1,906; and‘Vlaze Linea Embossed’ heat shield, £540. For details,ring 01983 537780, or visit vlaze.co and charnwood.com

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T H E W O R L D O F I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

Nurturin g close relations w ith Europe ’s elite tanneries f or ov er a decade, Whistler Leather of-f ers an ex tensiv e collection of high-g rade leath-ers , and is also able to w ork w ith desig ners on an y pro ject to source an d supp ly f or bespo k e require ments . Leather upholster y brin g s a sense of rened adv enture to an y interior .Hides show n here are (clockw ise f rom top ): ‘Vancou v er Nort hShore ’, rrp £25.50 per sq f t; ‘Montecar lo Pale

Gold’, rrp £17 per sq f t; ‘Tan g ier Sublime’, rrp £18.50 per sq f t; ‘Ra y Pear l Snow’, rrp £21.50 per sq f t; and ‘Tan g ier Pear’, rrp £18.50 per sq f t. Allprices include VAT. Ring 020 7352 4186 to arrange adesign consultation and, to view collections, visit theChelsea Harbour showroom or whistlerleather.com

Indulge in some armchair travel, snuggled up on Whistler leather by a Charnwood stove. Photography: Anders Gramer

I D E A S O N A P O ST CA R D

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e Beardmore Collection est. 1860

beardmore.co.uk

Made in England since 1860

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Christmas round - up, chosen by D amian Thompsonbooks

5

All titles (but one) can be ordered for the prices indicated (plus £5.50 UK p&p) from the World of Interiors Bookshop on 0871 911 1747

In 1893, at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago, a chunkof the Blarney Stone, a row of faux cottages and ‘Lads and lasses…

plying the needle, loom wheel, or carving tool’ would stereotypeIreland as a backward rural nation for decades. Recently the WindyCity’s own Art Institute offered a corrective in the form of IRELAND:

CROSSROADS OF ART AND DESIGN , 1 690-1840 [1 ] (eds William Laffan andChristopher Monkhouse; Yale, rrp £30, WoI price £28.50). Weighingsuch topics as landscape and tourism, and Dublin as a centre ofcommerce and culture, the catalogue has reassembled over 300 far-flung objects to stress the Emerald Isle’s cosmopolitanism.

In symbolising man’s dominion over nature, gardens speak topower. Perhaps that’s why the royal collections of horticultural artare so rich, encompassing Persian miniatures and Fabergé pansies,Dutch still lifes and silk floral fans. The catalogue toPAINTING PARADISE:

THE ART OF THE GARDEN [2 ] (by Vanessa Remington; Royal Collec-tion, rrp £45, WoI price £40.50) may lack coherence, so broad areits themes; but it offers intriguing pointers to changing monarchicaltastes. William IV had a passion for Tudor woodcuts on grafting treesand knot planting schemes, while the late Queen Mother snappedup Chelsea cauliflower tureens and other novelty crockery.

With shows in Paris and New York, Swiss designerMATTIA BONETTI [3 ] (2 vols; by Jacqueline du Pasquier and Jean Jacques Wattel; EditionsLouvre Victoire, rrp £90 approx) is having a big 2015. And this heftymonograph is another high-calorie helping of Neo-Baroque eyecandy. We’re talking Hansel and Gretel on fly agaric: a table that dou-bles as a forest canopy, acrylic wardrobes dripping with golden glob-ules, Smartie-studded cabinets and a hand mirror fashioned from

silver twigs. Ideas seem to pop out of his head fully formed – initiallyrealised in meticulous coloured-pencil drawings – and emerge as

one-offs, not collections, to be sold to a devoted coterie of art collec-tors. His signature? Sheer whimsy executed in the most rarefied ma-terials: travertine, rock crystal, tufa, lacquered aluminium…

And now a rags to riches story. Everyone knows about endpapers,but fancy sheets have also been used to line lead chests, to prettify thekeywells of harpsichords and, throughout Europe, to wrap ginger-bread. The young Goethe prized the alphabets printed on gold-col-oured brocade paper, while Ben Franklin claimed that the marblingadded to early American banknotes to counter fraud was instrumen-tal in winning the War of Independence. Be they paste or block-printed, embossed or combed, AN ANTHOLOGY OF DECORATED PAPERS:

A SOURCEBOOK FOR DESIGNERS [4 ] (by PJM Marks; Thames & Hudson,rrp £38, WoI price £34.20) comes gift-wrapped on the inside.

Ever since the earliest Mesopotamian cities 6,000 years ago, whenthe alluvial deposits of the Indus formed insulated breathable shel-ters, BRICK [5 ] (ed. William Hall; Phaidon, rrp £29.95, WoI price £26.96)has been bonded with human building ingenuity. To what curva-ceous service has the banal rectangular solid been put, beginninghere with the spiralling ramp of the Malwiya Minaret of 851 in Iraq.Then, a thousand years younger, there’s the four-tiered Göltzsch river viaduct in Germany, the world’s largest brick bridge, 26 million unitsstrong. And in the modern era, Louis Kahn’s awesome arches in theAssembly Building in Dhaka, Bangladesh. A hat-tip to the picture re-searchers: variety in bonding, mortar and colour, from Tudor chim-neys to Burmese stupas, make this well above par for the course. r

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PA R IS

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All titles can be ordered for the prices indi cated (plus £5.50UK p&p) from the World of Interiors Bookshop on 0 871 911 1747

booksSpanning thirteen centuries and stretching from Spain to

India come 116 objects held up for scrutiny. Certainly, master-pieces abound among the three titular components of INK , SILK

& GOLD: ISLAMIC ART FROM THE MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS , BOSTON [1 ] (ed. Laura Weinstein; MFA, rrp £29.95, WoI price £26.96). In a15th-century Persian album folio depicting mandarin ducks,ink lines of different weights perfectly capture swirling water,downy necks and looping tail feathers. Elsewhere a silk-velvetikat robe worn by an Uzbek bride in the 1850s packs a scarletpunch; while a mosque lamp globe, twinkling with gold touch-es, survives miraculously from 1340s Syria. Throughout, a crackteam of scholars flesh out the social and courtly contexts.

Many Modern-art books are stopped in their tracks by thehuge expense of the visuals. On top of time-consuming pic-ture research, there’s a hefty fee to the museum to reproduce theoriginal; then publishers must toss a big financial bone to theartist’s rights-collecting agency… For its series of 20th-centurygreats, Laurence King has hit on the clever wheeze of deployingsympathetic illustrators, alongside reproductions of originalworks. Turns out it’s not just a cost-cutting exercise either,but genuinely enhances the snappily written content. Adam

Simpson’s images are brilliant at communicating abstract ideasin THIS IS KANDINSKY [2 ] (by Annabel Howard; rrp £9.95, WoI price £8.96), while Aude van Rhyn’s bring narrative verve and– sneakily – pictures of famous works hung frame to frame toThis is Monet , two recent titles in this punchy ten-strong series.

Lush with mother-of-pearl inlay, gilded watercolours andintricate ivory carving, SULTANS OF DECCAN INDIA , 1500-1700:

OPULENCE AND FANTASY [3 ] (by Navina Najat Haidar and MarikaSarder; Yale, rrp £40,WoI price £38) is a banquet for the eyes.Before succumbing to the Moguls, Deccani patrons oversaw alyrical painting style characterised by an audacious use of col-our. After page upon page of caparisoned elephants, pink jas-mine, crimson parrots and shimmering princes, I felt like therotund Nobleman at Repast in an Aurangabad watercolour of

c1700, depicted gorging on betel nuts and lychees. Take it away!Whither the ‘I’ in EUROPEAN PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY SINCE

1990 [4 ] (ed. Frits Gierstberg; Prestel, rrp £40, WoI price £36)? Inthe last 25 years, as the internet has shrunk the world, muchwork, as the introduction has it, expresses ‘the fear of losing…local cultures, the small stories’. So Adam Panczuk’s Polishpeasants (draped in straw, clutching bread) comically hint attheir unity with the landscape; Denis Darzacq’s long-befriend-ed mentally disabled subjects choose their own settings andposes, bringing a warm agency to what might have been conde-scending; while Stratos Kalafatis’s pictures of monks at MountAthos are paradoxical since they have opted to remove them-selves from the world. In this well-curated selection of 31 prac-titioners, many come from neglected corners of the Continent.

In GOTHIC FOR THE STEAM AGE: AN ILLUSTRATED BIOGRAPHY

OF GEORGE GILBERT SCOTT [5 ] (Aurum, rrp £30, WoI price £27),Gavin Stamp reassesses this most prolific architect of the Vic-torian, or perhaps any, era. From Newfoundland to New Zealand,his buildings bridged the empire. In England alone, some 800structures – from asylums to universities – emanated from hisoffice, and he restored 18 of Britain’s 26 cathedrals and count-less churches. Though accorded a state funeral at West minsterAbbey, he was regarded as a vandal by Ruskin, guilty of insensi-tive restoration, and his arch-enemy William Morris referredto him as ‘that happily dead dog’. This long-overdue biographyoffers a reappraisal of a much-maligned figure. r

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books

All title s (but one) can be ordered for the price s indicat ed (plus £5.5 0 UK p&p) from the World of Interiors Bookshop on 0871 911 1747

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I’d love to see an Ealing comedy based onBAWDEN , RAVILIOUS AND THE

ARTISTS OF GREAT BARDFIELD [1 ] (eds Gill Saunders and Malcolm Yorke;V&A, rrp £25,WoI price £22.50). It’s got it all: a middle-class hanker-ing after rural authenticity; jealousy and bed-hopping; the Daily Mail snooping for spice on open days; and bemused Essex villagers (‘Lot

o’ peculiar folk knocking about’). Though good, the essays on in-dividuals – from painter John Aldridge to textile designer MarianneStraub – have an atomising effect in a book about a community, but thediverse images make for a warm, if escapist, Neo-Romantic vision.

Prompted by a Hindu harvest festival in Tamil Nadu, photo-grapher Toni Meneguzzo travelled across eight Indian states andlearned the language of 12-tone signals to communicate with thedolled-up quadrupeds of DIVINE BOVINE [2 ] (Silvana Editoriale, rrp£21.95 approx); it seems they don’t speak Italian.Shot against a milky-white backcloth, these idol-ised mobile altars or herbivorous canvases, de-pending on your belief system, come draped inbananas and balloons, blue-horned and berib-boned, swathed in silks and (ancient) swastikas.But they’re holy cows and never look fazed.

ROBERT WELCH [3 ] (by Charlotte and Peter Fiell;Laurence King, rrp £30, WoI price £28.50) was amid-century titan whose long career spanned craftsilversmith and industrial designer. Graduatingfrom the RCA just after the Festival of Britain, hisearly designs soon became cult objects, such as‘Alveston’ cutlery and the Westclox alarm clock.Influenced by the clean lines and functional pre-cision of Scandinavian design, his output encom-passed everything from plastic-handled scissors

to a magnificent gilt-parcel candelabra for the Worshipful Companyof Goldsmiths. Sleek and authoritative, the book is a fitting monu-ment to the empire Welch built from an old silk mill in the Cotswolds– one now run by his children.

Gilded Age robber barons once vacationed at Newport, Rhode

Island, in vast asymmetrical ‘cottages’; now one firm is revivingthe short-lived, faintly colonial style for today’s plutocrats. In THE

NEW SHINGLED HOUSE: IKE KLIGERMAN BARKLEY [4 ] (by John Ike et al;Monacelli, rrp £50, WoI price £40), places have names like Watch HillAerie and Blue Ridge Lodge. With their copper fire hoods and mas-sive bluestone piers, these relaxed piles are packed to the gunwaleswith Arts and Crafts-y joinery – indeed the more Lutyens-inspiredplaces (check out those rectangular oak balusters!) have been dub-

bed ‘Shinglish’. But where are the inhabitants?Trades have always flourished in the East End,

be it the Jewish ‘rag’ merchants of Spitalfields orthe sweatshops of Bethnal Green, where the des-perate churned out clothes-pegs, matchboxes andshoes. In the finely crafted, atmospheric MAKERS OF

EAST LONDON [5 ] (by Katie Treggiden; Hoxton Mini,rrp £30, WoI price £27), several of the 21 artisans –from the umbrella maker James Ince & Son (1805)to the Whitechapel Bell Foundry (1509!) – havedeep roots here. But whether it’s chairs or chop-ping boards, crocheted lamps or custom bikes,many talented newcomers, seduced by the buzz ofregeneration, feel they have fallen into a honey trap.Spiralling rents and warehouses morphing intoluxury flats mean that some of these artisans maysoon have to set up shop elsewhere. r

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In Edmund de Waal’s THE POT BOOK [1 ] (Phaidon, rrp £24.95, WoI price £22.46),you’ll find a striped Sottsass vase from the 1980sfacing a Song fluted bowl, and a Cornish kitchenware teapot co-sying up to a 13th-century Cypriot betrothal bowl. Why? Thehappy accident of the alphabet. From the Art Book onwards,Phaidon has long been the jim-dandy of juxtaposition. Acrosshistory, one sees the clay being pulled in two directions – to-wards the pure minimal clarity of a Lucy Rie bowl or a Shinosake bottle; or towards ever more elaboration, whether that’sNeoclassical jasperware or George Ohr’s crumpled, spattered vessels. Cross-references help one keep in touch with cousins.

Virtually no English panel paintings survived the Reform-ation. That makes THE WILTON DIPTYCH [2 ] (by Dillian Gordon;Yale, rrp £14.95, WoI price £14.20), a masterpiece of Inter-national Gothic, all the more special. Dating from 1395-9, thisportable possession of Richard II shows the king kneeling infront of saints and opposite quite the most adorable goldenchoir of angels you’ll ever clap eyes on. This we know. But de-spite some revealing X-rays undertaken in the 1990s, much ismysterious. Who painted it and why? Is it a gift or an embodi-

ment of Richard’s own exalted idea of kingship? Unpacking thesymbolism of the heavenly host’s broomscod collars, and track-ing down a Medieval secret society, the sleuths at the NationalGallery think they may have some answers.

If you think cartography is limited to the lay of the land,MAP: EXPLORING THE WORLD [3 ] (Phaidon, rrp £39.95, WoI price£35.96) will make you think again. Yes, there are plenty ofclassics here – James Cook’s charting of his Pacific Ocean ad- ventures, say, or Mercator’s brilliant 16th-century geometricprojection, flattening the globe like so much orange peel. Butwhether rendered on sealskin, clay tablet or computer screen,maps can capture almost any spatial or topological relation-ship. Here you can visualise the densities of Facebook friendsround the world, the migration patterns of birds in the Americas

and the spread of cholera in Victorian London.‘Maddened’ by the demolition of a Thomas Telford junction

house, banking dynasts John and Christian Smith set up theLandmark Trust in 1964. Intended to protect Britain’s heritage,its self-sustaining idea was to rent out the properties it rescued tothe public. Here that includes a Lundy lighthouse, an Italianatetrain station and a Mackintosh house in Perth shire. The chron-ological LANDMARK: A HISTORY OF BRITAIN IN 50 BUILDINGS [4 ] (byAnna Keay and Caroline Stanford; Frances Lincoln, rrp £25, WoI price £23.75) charts developments such as the fall of CardinalWolsey, defending against the Napoleonic invasion and thecoming of the railways. Woven into this patchwork island storyis a cogent account of evolving conservation practice.

Generous glazing! Sliding partitions! Community spirit!Concrete! In MODERNIST ESTATES: THE BUILDINGS AND THE PEOPLE

WHO LIVE IN THEM TODAY [5 ] (by Stefi Orazi; Frances Lincoln, rrp£25, WoI price £23.75), which grew out of a blog, a new breed ofdesign-savvy urbanite gives two fingers to the dominant nar-rative about postwar high-density low-cost housing. You know,the crumbling, vermin-infested sink estates with their pissy liftsand ‘corridors in the sky’ offering escape routes for criminals…Admittedly, many of these places, such as Isokon and Barbican,are quite high-spec, and most are in London – but even theonce-infamous Byker estate in Newcastle and Sheffield’s ParkHill have now, it seems, become sought-after $

All title s can be ordered for the pri ces indic ated (plus £5.50 UK p&p) from the World of Interiors Bookshop on 0871 911 1747

books

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261 Fulham Road, London SW3 6HY 020 7352 5594

Hand embroidered Couture cushions

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Proud to partner Paris Deco Off

This January the world’s leading designers and decorators descend onParis’s design district for Paris Deco Off – now celebrating its seventh year. Between 21 and 25 January over 100 international companieswill open their stunning showrooms and indulge each and everyone one of us with their new collections. The World of Interiors is atthe heart of this special festival, with its February issue available inevery showroom and pop-up space. As the world’s leading designand decoration publication, we are thrilled to celebrate the start of

another exciting year with our partners at Paris Deco Off .

Free shuttles will take you from the Left Bank to the Right Bank, fromshowroom to showroom. And on the late night opening (till 11pm) onSaturday 23rd, spot the gigantic lamps in linen (Masters of Linen)individually designed by each company to guide you through the evening.

The event is free and open to both trade and retail.Visit www.paris-deco-off.com for further information.

DON’T MISS OUR FEBRUARY ISSUEOn sale 7 January

Fabric: La Foret ‘ Berry ’, Raoul Dufy for Christopher Farr Cloth

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Clockwise from top left: compressed pear wrappedin prosciutto and topped with cream gorgonzola;Mexican beef with sweet potato puree topped withguacamole; fresh tuna and avocado rice-paper roll;Caesar salad with crispy prosciutto in a parmesanbasket; horseradish blini with home-cured beetrootsalmon and horseradish cream. Dinner plate: ‘Oasis’

from the ‘Haviland’ collection, Thomas Goode

CATERING AND EVENTS EXPERT LYNDY REDDING, THE FOUNDER

AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF ABSOLUTE TASTE, HAS BEEN TAKING

HER COMPANY’S FABULOUS FOOD ON TO PRIVATE JETS. AND HER

CLIENTS ARE ON CLOUD NINE. PHOTOGRAPHY: NATO WELTON

Flights of Fancy

T HE WO R LD OF I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

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Beluga cavia r se r ved with homemade blinis, sou r cr eam, chives, shallots, egg white and egg yolk.Dinne r plate: ‘Pe r lée’ fr om ‘L’Objet’ collection,

Thomas Goode

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Pan-sea r ed scallops and Medite rr anean p r awnswith pea and mint pu r ee, c r ispy cho r izo and lobste r

tuille. Dinne r plate: ‘Cosmopolitan Miami’ f r om the‘Meissen’ collection, Thomas Goode

T H E W O R L D O F I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

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/ Ã «>}i \ 9 À Ã Ài Liiv w i Ì Ü Ì ÃÜii Ì« Ì>Ì v `> Ì] i À L >L Þ Lii ÌÀ Ì Ü Ì> V>««ÕVV v ÕÃ À Ã Ì ««i ` Ü Ì

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T H E W O R L D O F I N T E R I O R S P R O M O T I O N

C atering and events expert Lyndy R edding is the creator and managing direc-tor of Absolute Taste, which has been providing fabulous food and beautifulstyling for corporate and private clients since 1997 . An infallible team witha passion for great homemade food and an ability to deliver world-class ser- vice in every setting make Absolute Taste one of Britain’s leading event-designcompanies . Lyndy now operates a range of complementary businesses , fromprivate-jet catering to providing hospitality for the M cLaren H onda F1 teamaround the world . e events team is in constant demand , with clients fromthe worlds of sport , automotive , aviation , beauty , property and interior design

all seeking innovative ideas and the next best location for their party . Lyndy ’s globetrotting allows her to explore different food trends , bringing

inspiration back to her kitchen to create beautiful , uncomplicated dishes that canthen be adapted across all areas of her business . Absolute Taste is now bringingtechnology to its inight business in the shape of a fabulous new private-jetfood-ordering app . O n any given day Lyndy ’s menus can be tasted in multiplelocations around the world . e latest inight app now makes this even morepossible, allowing travellers to quickly and effortlessly browse menus and photogalleries, gain inspiration , make their selection and pay online within a fewclicks of a button . W ith such high-prole clients , where diary commitments canchange at the drop of a hat , Absolute Taste’s delicious food can be served highabove the clouds within hours of an order being placed $ F or more information, ring 020 8871 5151, or visit absolutetaste.com

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L eft: Jos ef ’s ph o to- co llages ech o the s tructure s they s ho w , in this ca s epicture s o f T ampu Macchay , S ac s ayhuaman (no date ), b eing laid o vereach other lik e cut s tone . Belo w: Familiar Front , 1948 -52 , come s fr om the‘ A dob e ’ s erie s – Jos ef felt the interrelati on of co lour and f orm wa s intui-tively under s too d in Mexican culture . Bo ttom left: the r oo ts of the ‘Homageto the S quare ’ s eries (this wor k is undated ) lie in the earlier ‘ A dob e ’ s eries

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B A U H A U SBELOW THEB O R D E ROne -time linchpin s o f W eimar ’s s eminal s ch ooJos ef and A nni A lb er s fled Nazi G ermany tteach in the USA. On h o liday s to L atin A mericathe c ouple were excited t o dis co ver that theicheri s hed Mo derni s t principle s o f f o rm , c oo ur and univer s ality had already b een fullrealis ed in pre -Co lumb ian art . As a s ho w openin Milan, C harle s Darwent head s so uth t o in

ve s tigate their ‘pr omis ed land ’ o f abs traction r

O pp os ite, bo ttom right : the du o’s L atin A merican travel were n o t re s tricted t o Mexic o, a s Jos ef ’s ph o to- c o llago f C han -C han , P eru , 1953 , s ho ws. T his page , left: A nnico tton / linen Red Meander o f 1954 indicate s her de b t ‘my great teacher s, the weaver s o f ancient P eru ’. Belo left: Jos ef ’s pho tograph o f A nni, her father S iegfried Fleis chmann and an un k no wn bo y in T eo tihuacan , Mexico, 193

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BAUHAUS BELOW THE BORDER

Fr om top left: Jos ef ’s Manti c o f 1940 marrie s a Co ns tructivis t intere s t in two- and three -dimen s ional s pace to a new concern with co lour ; in 1939 Jos ef ph otographed A nni at the cerem onial s ite of Monte A lbá n, whos e pyramid s had been begun in 500 BC . It was s till under excava -tion; this co tton fragment fr om Nazca , P eru (200 BC - AD 700 ), come s fr om the co llection of Mudec , Milan’s new Mus eum of Cultures; so too doesthis o pen terrac o tta bo wl with concave bas e – also fr om Nazca , P eru

TH INK OF Josef Albers’s work and you will probablysee squares. Think of his wife, Anni’s, and it will be abstractweavings. Together, the Alberses’ art leads straight to theBauhaus. What you will very likely not think of is little clayfigures, although, as it happens, you should.

In October 1933, with the Nazis in power, the couple leftBerlin for Black Mountain College in North Carolina. It was,Anni said, ‘a vacuum’ – a word she meant nicely, a place whereshe and her husband could start their art again, free from ex-

pectation or influence. Two years later, they went on holidayto Mexico by car: Josef, scared of flying, had learned to driveespecially. Back in the USA, he wrote about the trip to his oldBauhaus colleague Wassily Kandinsky. ‘Mexico,’ he wrote inamazement, ‘is truly the promised land of abstract art.’

He might have been thinking of Modernist painters suchas Carlos Mérida, say, but he wasn’t. What the couple hadfound in Mexico was an abstraction far older and, to theirminds, more modern. Driving to an Aztec site, they had beenstopped by a boy selling a turkey wrapped in a blanket. Anni,typically, ignored the bird for the fabric. Then the boy tooksome fragments from a bag – pre-Columbian pottery figures,maybe dating from the time of Christ. They were the kind ofobject that had been made in their millions in Mexico, and forhundreds of years; things you could find buried in any field.

Josef and Anni were transfixed. Part of the Bauhaus pro- ject had been to eliminate the ego in art, the whole cult of r

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Fr om top left: the A lber s es also f ound Meso american art nearer to home – the Nava jo rugs in Jos ef ’s ph o to- co llage of 1938 were in Florida; this woo l fragment fr om W ari Culture , AD 500 -1000 , is fr om the co llection of Mudec ; this c1967 s tudy is f o r a large weaving A nni made f or the Camin o Real Hotel in Mexico C ity , de s igned b y the Modernis t architect Ricard o L eg orreta ; Jos ef ’s painting Mo v ement in G re y (1939 ) sugge s ts why he later balk ed at his abs traction being de s cribed as ‘hard-edged ’

originality. In a time of mechanical reproduction and the aes-thetic it shaped, signatures and authorship were decadent lux-uries. What mattered was to make objects that anyone coulduse, and that everyone would want to – to find a universal lan-guage of art, made up of shapes and forms and colours. Here,in Mexico, was a civilisation quite literally built on these things.Looking at the anonymous work of an indigenous artist, Annibreathed: ‘We’re not alone any more.’

To see what happened next, you need to go to Milan, to Mu -

dec, the city’s new Museum of Cultures. Mr and Mrs Alberswould travel to Mexico 14 times in the two decades after theirfirst visit, and to other Latin American countries besides. Asthey travelled, they collected: a hoard of Mesoamerican arte-facts – which they stored, with characteristic plainness, in acupboard in their basement in Connecticut (Josef had taken a job at Yale in 1950) – but also the images that soaked into theireyes and minds and, almost at once, into their art. These inter-woven collections will be shown side by side in Milan, in anexhibition called A Beautiful Confluence.

It wasn’t just how indigenous art looked that intriguedthem; it was what it stood for. It was everywhere – in the soil,in the cloth, in the traditional colours and patterns of adobehouses. As with pre-Columbian pottery figures, individu-ality was beside the point. What counted was repetition, re-iteration – what Josef, in his own art, called ‘the stubbornnessof working in variants’. r

BAUHAUS BELOW THE BORDER

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Fr om top right: Jos ef ’s S t ud y f or S an c t u ar y , c1941 -42 , links the ge ometry of ad ob e façade s with that of Meso american pyramid s; this undated ph otograph of a pre -Co lumbian s tone figure was tak en b y Jos ef at a mu s eum in Morelia; Mexico also coloured wor k that was not Mexican in intere s t – in this ca s e , the o verlapping egg -s hape s o f Jos ef ’s 1937

P roto Form A. B y no w it was clear that the A lber ses would be childless; a Peruvian panel fragment (late intermediate Chimù) collected b y the couple

You can see him thinking about this in the photo-collageshe made of their trips – a black-and-white mosaic of the re-peat motifs of a Peruvian stone-carving, say. In 1949, he wouldset to work on his own greatest series, the thing for which heis best known, the paintings and prints of his ‘Hom age to theSquare’. By the time he died, there would be more than 2,000paintings in this sequence alone, roughly one for every fourdays of the quarter-century that he had worked on it. Their juxtapositions of colour were rooted in turn in another, smaller

series, made in Mexico in 1947 – paintings that Josef called‘Variants’ or ‘Adobes’. Their nested squares started life asthe black-and-white ‘Graphic Tectonic’ studies, which drewon Mexican geometry.

Anni Albers made no bones about her debt to pre-Colum-bian art: her 1965 book, On Weaving , was dedicated to ‘my greatteachers, the weavers of ancient Peru’. Her fascination wasnot just with colour and form, but with technique and scale.She was mesmerised by the way ancient Americans had wovenwide fabrics, but also by the smallness of many pre-Hispanicobjects. The works she dubbed her ‘pictorial weavings’, herown challenge to easel paintings, were often tiny: one, just10cm high, is calledSouth of the Border . ‘The monumental canbe embedded in the minute,’ she said, with satisfaction $ ‘A Beautiful Confluence: Anni and Josef Albers and the Latin AmericanWorld’ runs at the Museo delle Culture, 56 Via Tortona, 20144 Milan,until 21F eb.F or opening times, ring 00 39 02 54917, or visit mudec.it

BAUHAUS BELOW THE BORDER

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In the 1970s, Alan Bennett invited a lady to park in his drive in Camden. Fifteen years

later, she was still there, living amid plastic bags and old pamphlets in her papal-yellow Bedford van. With the advent of a film based on the playwright’s memoirand the resulting forensic reconstruction of her four-wheeled home, he recalls the‘distressed’ décor of the unmovable Miss Shepherd. Photography: Antony Crolla r

Opposite and this page: Miss Shepherd first parked her van, reconstructed here for the film, on GloucesterCrescent before moving it to the drive of No. 23. Plastic bags were an auxiliary wardrobe but also a source ofanxiety for her. Shepherd once asked Bennett to check under the vehicle for IRA bombs: ‘All I can see is a boxthat could be suspect,’ he told her. ‘No,’ she replied.’That’s just some Hobnobs that were on offer at Fine Fare’

I M M OB I L E H OM E

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SIMON HORNBEDS | FURNITURE | LIFESTYLE

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I M M O B I L E H O M E

Top: the last of Miss Shepherd’s vans, in its distinctive yellow

livery, seen just after her death. Right: the view from Bennett’s

gate towards his front door, which could only be accessed by

‘sq uee z ing oneself between the side of the van and the wall,

scrutinised by Miss Shepherd through the van’s grimy window’

WHEN I W ROTE an account of MissMary Shepherd’s residence in my Camden Town gardenI called it ‘The Lady in the Van’. It should have more ac-

curately been called ‘The Lady in the Vans’, as over the 15 years she stayed there were at least three incarnations.Though stylistically different, each of the vehicles endedup looking the same, as Miss Shepherd, never happierthan when wielding a brush, insisted on painting themall yellow. It was a shade and a texture unknown to Far-row & Ball – a lumpy yellow undercoat that might havebeen grubby scrambled egg, lumpier still on one occa-sion, she explained, ‘Because I got some madeira cakein the tin’. A Reliant Robin that she had acquired ‘tokeep my things in’ also received the ‘egg tempura’ treat-ment, though it was saved from further excesses by abit of old stair carpet she kept on the roof.

Miss Shepherd liked yellow, she said, because it wasthe papal colour. There was no area of her life – motoring,parking, politics or interior decorating – that was notimbued with her fervent Catholicism. She once had mewrite to the Vatican to implore the College of Cardinalsto license a lighter crown for His Holiness to wear, ‘madeof cardboard or some light plastic material, possibly’. r

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I M M O B I L E H O M E

The interior of the van was carefully reproduced for the film, which is based on Bennett’s play. ‘On this assortment of eiderdowns, duvets and old ta-blecloths Miss Shepherd used to sleep and also, she would have said, to work - making notes for True View , the pamphlet she used to sell on the corner of Camden High Street.’ Bennett ran an electric cable from his house to the van so she could watch television here rather than in the window of Currys

Over the years I grew rather accustomed to Miss Shepherd’sinteriors. I began to reflect that environments the artists Edwardand Nancy Kienholz would have had to labour over came to Miss

Shepherd quite naturally, and in which, in all of her vans, she wascomfortably (and odorously) embowered. ‘Distressed’ hardly de-scribes the finish she so effortlessly achieved. r

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Top: Maggie Smith on set. ‘I once wrote to D ebo, the D uchess of D evonshire, that the only person I knew as strong-willed as

her was Miss Shepherd,’ says Bennett. ‘Thereafter, she signed

all her letters to me “D . Shepherd ” .’ Left: throughout filming, the

vans’ contents had to be conscientiously recorded for continuity

It was not until she died in April 1989 that I set footinside the van. It was only on seeing a social workerknock on the van door that morning and, receiving no

reply, open it and step inside that made me realise MissShepherd was no more. The local priest came and anoint-ed her body, the readiness of all involved with her in herillness and death bringing home to me, her 15-year resi-dence notwithstanding, how fastidious I remained.

Her grave in St Pancras and Islington cemetery is un-marked, but in one of the final scenes of the film a blueplaque testifying to her long occupancy of GloucesterCrescent is unveiled. It looked very much at home and Iwould have been happy to see it remain but, filming over,it was taken down. Which is right, as she had never beenone to advertise herself, reluctant back in 1975 even totell me her name and, even when she did, adding: ‘I don’twant it broadcast. I’ll go so far as to say I am anonymous.’

Anonymous or not she is remembered to this day.‘Do you still have that lady?’ cab drivers will often askme, and I trust that, as portrayed by Maggie Smith, MissShepherd will live on $

‘The Lady in the Van’ is published by Profile Books. The fof the same name is in cinemas from 13 November

I M M O B I L E H O M E

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WORKS FROM THEMARQUARTSTEIN CASTLE

Old Master Paintings19th Century PaintingsAncient Sculpture and Works of ArtFurniture and Decorative ArtsRugs and CarpetsWine

Auctions London 24 & 25 November 2015Viewing 20–24 November

Enquiries +44 (0)20 7293 [email protected]–35 New Bond Street, London W1A 2AAsothebys.com/bernheimer

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EXCLUSIVE LUXURY BATHROOMS

Showrooms London 282-284 Fulham Road ChelseaSW10 9EW T. +44 (0)207 351 [email protected]

Showrooms & Workshops KenSaracens Dairy Pluckley Road Pluckley

TN27 0SA T. +44 (0)1233 840 840 www.catchpoleandrye.com

K E N T E N G L A N D

CATCHPOLE & RYE

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SERIOUS pursuits Auctions, antique fairs and diverting activities, chosen by Grace McCloud

1 The Travelling Gallery,covered in Mike Inglis’sThe Ark Camps vinylwrap. Until 5 Dec. 2 Oneof a pair of Royal Artilleryofficer’s swords, 1919,Bonhams, 1 Dec.3 Michaela Gall, ‘Heron’platter, Handmadein Britain, 13-15 Nov.4 Studio of Jan Brueghelthe Elder, A Still Lifeof Flowers in a GlassBeaker with Insects on aStone Ledge , early 17th-century, Bonhams, 9 Dec.

5 George III Gothickcarved mahogany side

chair, c1760, Christie’s,19 Nov. 6 Adrian Allinson, poster designfor Great WesternRailway and SouthernRailway, printed in1946, Onslow’s, 18Dec. 7 Charles Avery,The People andThings , 2015, InglebyGallery at Art BaselMiami Beach, 3-6 Dec

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In spite of JMW Turner’s fondness for Scotland’swild scenery, until this year the prize named forthe great Romanticist had never in its 31-yearhistory been held north of the border. No won-der, then, that the Scots are celebrating Glasgowhosting 2015’s award with a whole busload of art– literally. Until 5 December, THE TRAVELLING GAL-

LERY , which has been on the road since August, con-tinues its country-wide tour, showcasing the work ofprevious Scottish winners and emerging artists. In Nov-ember, it will journey from North Ayrshire to Dumfries andGalloway, West Lothian and Stirling, before finallyputting on the brakes in Glasgow, where the win-ner of the Turner Prize will be announced, at Tram-way Gallery, on 7 December. Details: 0131 529 3930;travellinggallery.com.BRITAIN

13-15 NOVEMBER CHELSEA OLD TOWN HALL, KING’S RD,

LONDON SW3 HANDMADE IN BRITAIN. Birds of a featherflock together: more than 120 makers gather,

including Michaela Gall with her avian ceramics.Details: 020 7286 5110; handmadeinbritain.co.uk.19 NOVEMBER CHRISTIE’S, KING ST, LONDON SW1 THE

ENGLISH COLLECTOR. A sale of fine artworks and fur-niture compiled from several British private col-lections. Details: 020 7839 9060; christies.com.1 DECEMBER BONHAMS, MONTPELIER ST, LONDON SW7 HOOTON PAGNELL HALL – 300 YEARS OF COLLECTING. Withtaxidermy hummingbirds and a first edition of theNuremberg Chronicle among its lots, this diversesale tells a visual tale of the Warde family’s residence of this South Yorkshireseat. Details: 020 7393 3900; bonhams.com.2 DECEMBER MACDOUGALL’S, CHARLES II ST, LONDON SW1 IMPORTANT RUSSIAN ART. Empire state of mind: three of Isaak Levitan’s lyrical ‘mood landscapes’cast light on the charms of the countryside in 19th-century Russia. Details:

020 7389 8160; macdougallauction.com.3-4 DECEMBER CHELSEA OLD TOWN HALL, KING’S RD, LONDON SW3 SELVEDGE ARTISAN

CHRISTMAS FAIR. Montes Clark, the Mexican-textiles duo of October’s issue,spices up Selvedge. Arriba! Details: selvedge.com.9 DECEMBER BONHAMS, NEW BOND ST, LONDON W1 OLD MASTER PAINTINGS. Mastersof the arts: works of distinction by Northern Renaissance names are ofparticular interes t. Details: 020 7447 7447; bonhams.com.18 DECEMBER ONSLOW’S, MANOR RD, STOURPAINE, DORSET VINTAGE POSTERS. Fullsteam ahead to Onslow’s, where a number of posters marking a bygone eraof train travel go under the hammer. Details: 01258 488838; onslows.co.uk.OUTSIDE BRITAIN

USA 3-6 DECEMBER MIAMI BEACH CONVENTION CENTER, CONVENTION CENTER DRIVE,

MIAMI BEACH, FL ART BASEL MIAMI BEACH. The USA’s most glamorous art affairreturns for the 14th time. Details: artbaselmiamibeach.com $

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1 ‘Meridien Avenue 5138-01’, by Gastón & Daniela, £ 86, Abbott & Boyd. 2 Tangerine ‘Northpoint Stripe LCF66 374F’, £117, RalphLauren Home. 3 ‘Yoruba’, by Nomi Fabrics, £170, Summ it Furnitu re. 4 ‘Kabba Kabba M LB5314’, by Mart yn Lawrence-

Bullard, £266; 5 ‘Les Quat re du Monde’, by Toiles de Jouy l’Authenti q ue, £108; both Tis sus d’Hélène. 6 ‘Crichel GW F-3328-40’, byLee Jofa, £110, GP&J Baker. Classic vacuum flask, by Stanley, £35; titanium mug, by Lifeventure £20; both Cotswold

Outdoor. Binoculars, s tylist’s own. Fabric prices a re per m; a ll prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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SWATCH

O U T AND A B O U TAnyone exposing themselves to British skies needs to be ready for all weathers.

The same applies to outdoor fabrics, be they Modernist geometrics or jungly exotics. Soif you’ve lost your bearings, let Miranda Sinclair fly to the rescue with textiles that

are soil-resistant and waterproof – tough enough for any terrain. Photography: Neil Mersh

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SWATCH

1 ‘Cocoa Beach 10544-74’, £112.50, Nobilis. 2 ‘Porto Vecchio’, by Casamance, £68.90, Colony. 3 ‘Kashmir Paisley 139KAP08’, by Peter Dunham, £230, Tissus d’Hélène. 4 Tur q uoise ‘Greenwich Village’,

£41, D esigners Guild. 5 Verde ‘Carnival’, by Michael Sz ell, £110, Christopher Farr Cloth. 6 ‘Summertime T14017-005’, £114.50, Dedar. ‘Spectre 2’, by DMM, £30 per five-pack of multi-coloured

carabiners; ‘Huntsman’ multi tool, by Victorinox, £35; ‘Expedition 4’ compass, by Silva, £33; all

Cotswold Outdoor. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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I C O N I C B R I T I S H C R A F T S M A N S H I P

LONDON587 KINGS ROAD, SW6 2EH T: +44 (0)20 7384 1004

HARROGATE54 PARLIAMENT STREET, HG1 2RL T: +44 (0)1423 563160

GEORGESMITH.CO.UK

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SWATCH

1 ‘Kerkyra F6481-05’, £66, Osborne & L ittle. 2 ‘Fiorentina Sol GWF-3325-8’, by L ee Jofa, £128, GP&J Baker. 3 Sand

‘Manketti L eopard’, £192, Ralph L auren Home. 4 Jet ‘Nordic Stripe’, £107.50, Robert Allen. 5 Shell ‘Painted

Turtles 175891’, by Schumacher, £138.60, Turnell & Gigon. 6 ‘Terra zz o K5131-09’, £43, Kirkby D esign. ‘L hasa L ite

AS’ trekking poles, by L eki, £50 each; ‘Spectre 2’ carabiner, by D MM, £6; mountain whistle, by L ifesystems,

£3.25; all Cotswold Outdoor. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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SWATCH

1 Azz urro ‘Movement’, by Anni Albers, £95, Christopher Farr Cloth. 2 Indigo ‘Suffolk Check’ oilcloth, £34.50, Ian

Mankin. 3 ‘Caribbean Check 10450-594’, £94, Z immer & Rohde. 4 ‘Plaid T14029-002’, £114.50, D edar. 5 ‘Canopy

Solid GWF 2507-515’, by L ee Jofa, £65, GP&J Baker. 6 ‘Brick K5128-03’, £43, Kirkby D esign. ‘Spectre 2’, by D MM, £30

per five-pack of multi-coloured carabiners; ‘Spectre 2’ silver carabiner, by D MM, £6; both Cotswold Outdoor.

Camping mug, stylist’s own. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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SWATCH

1 ‘Swing 07799006’, by Boussac, £100.80, Pierre Frey. 2 ‘Venice Beach 10519-05’, £116.50, Nobilis. 3 ‘Pic Nic Tratto

185607’, £129, C& C Milano. 4 ‘Coral Coral CH34220-2’, by Clarence House, £134.40, Turnell & Gigon.

5 ‘Ogee Knot 31708-12’, £96, Kravet. ‘Spectre 2’, by D MM, £30 per five-pack of multi-coloured carabiners; ‘Spectre 2’

silver carabiner, by D MM, £6 ; ‘Cook Kit 1’, by Vango, £18; al l Cotswold Outdoor. Vacuum flask, from

£16.50, Objects of U se. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book $

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Bathrooms International by THG - Retail Showroom

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Stepevi’s ability to produce exquisite rugs of the highest quality,delivered with flawless service and speed, makes them a delight todesigners, decorators and anyone who has had the pleasure of feelingits products underfoot.

The company was founded in 2005 by Cem Sengor and AysegulYurekli Sengor. Under the couple’s direction, the three generationsold carpet heritage was remodelled and transformed into a new com-pany that rapidly expanded in the major design and fashion capitalsof the world, opening showrooms and ofces. The brand owns Eu-rope’s largest integrated manufacturing facilities for hand-tufted rugsand carpets. Embracing the philosophy of ‘rened modern luxury’,the company, based in Istanbul, is constantly renewing its values ofunderstated exclusivity and sustainability. With roots in the world’srug-making capital, Stepevi transformed its business understandingby respectfully melding tradition with innovation. This philosophyhas elevated its rugs into a pioneering luxury interior product.

Today Stepevi has a great reputation for its outstanding collectionand bespoke solutions for upmarket residential settings, as well as thehospitality and retail industries. The brand serves many individualcustomers and leading worldwide interior designers, architects andproperty developers.

C U S T O MP I O N E E RStepevi, the international luxury rug brand with worldwiderenown, is celebrating the tenth year of its London show-

room. By applying new technology to this most traditionalof crafts, the company has forged ahead – and its super-quick delivery time for bespoke orders helps to keep it

ahead of the competition. Photography: Neil Mersh

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T H E W O R L D O F I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

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Stepevi delivers hundreds of high-quality customised rugs everyday to its network of stockists. The ow is maintained thanks to afully owned and controlled production facility located in Isparta, asouthern Turkish town synonymous in the past with traditional car-pet weaving. The legendary quality of Stepevi rugs, made of premi-

um pure silk, exclusive wool blends, linen and viscose, is thanks notonly to using the nest materials but also the masterful application oftechnology by dedicated expert craftsmen.

Besides London, the company has a strong presence throughoutthe world, with showrooms in Paris, Milan, Istanbul, New York, Ge-neva and, most recently, Munich. The London showroom, the brand’srst retail outlet, has just been fully renovated. In this exceptionalagship, the whole collection is carefully displayed in a sleek andminimalist setting, enabling customers to absorb its full potential inrelaxing surroundings. Between layered displays of sample rugs, vastnumbers of colour and quality swatches are available to celebrate theclient’s own creativity and make the decision-making process pleas-urable. After all, Stepevi’s showrooms are one of the few places in theworld where you can design your own bespoke rug, follow your orderas it goes through the production process and receive it in just fourweeks. In fact, if you need your rug even sooner, the showroom alwayscarries a good stock of its best-selling items for immediate delivery.

Stepevi provides an excellent contract service for projects thatinclude private residences, ofce buildings and yachts. In addition,leading luxury hotel and retail brands round the globe exploit thebrand’s strong contract portfolio and its intensive customisationskills. Today Stepevi is considered to be a key pioneer of the rug andcarpet sector $

To view Stepevi’s collections, visit the Chelsea showroom at 274 K ing’s Rd, London SW3. Ring 020 7376 7574, or visit stepevi.com

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T H E W O R L D O F I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

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Scandinavian 1 Sideboard, by Bykato for Andersen, £2,966, Aram. 2 ‘CH25’ chair, by Carl Hansen, £2,251, Skandium. 3 ‘Värmdö’ rocking chair, by NikeKarlsson, £95, Ikea. 4 ‘Swan’ chair, by Arne Jacobsen, £2,827, Geoffrey Drayton. 5 ‘Super-Elliptical’ table, by Fritz Hansen, £1,550; ‘Teema’ plates, by Kaj Franckfor Iittala, £11.50 each; ‘Cutter’ cutlery, by Antonio Citterio for Iittala, from £5; all Skandium. Cork table mats, £7.50 each, David Mellor. 6 ‘Couch 775’, by JosefFrank, £2,422 approx, Svenskt Tenn. 7 Selection of mid-century Swedish geometric rugs, from £4,000, Howe. 8 ‘Tray Table’, by Hans Bølling for Brdr Krüger,£377 approx, Skandium. 9 ‘Wishbone’ chair, by Hans J. Wegner for Carl Hansen, £574, Aram. All prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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SHORTLIST

O U T O F T H E B O XIs your passion for Scandi? Do you long to unleash your love for the Orient? Or maybe you’d prefer something a littlemore, well, Moorish? Time to unpack your global decorative fantasies, says Max Egger. Photography: Anders Gramer

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EXCLUSIVE LUXURY BATHROOMS

Showrooms London 282-284 Fulham Road ChelseaSW10 9EW T. +44 (0)207 351 [email protected]

Showrooms & Workshops KenSaracens Dairy Pluckley Road Pluckley

TN27 0SA T. +44 (0)1233 840 840 www.catchpoleandrye.com

K E N T E N G L A N D

CATCHPOLE & RYE

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SHORTLIST

Afr ican 1 Beaded Y oruba chair, £1,300, From the Tribe. 2 String shelf, £150, R achel & Malika’s. 3 R ecycled plastic ket-tles, £8 each, R e. 4 String chair, £49, R achel & Malika’s. 5 ‘Anyi Print Gigi’ armchair, £650, Graham & Green. 6 Medium

floor mats, from £15 each, R achel & Malika’s. All prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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SHORTLISTMoor i sh 1 ‘Casablanca’ floor mirror, £2,040, Paolo Moschino for Nicholas Haslam. 2 Ancient Egyptian-style reproduction limed-oak side chairs, £960 for the pair, Westenholz Anti ques. 3 Egyptian-inspired ‘Depet’ sofa, by Hedayat Islam for Eklego Design, £2,900, Jam Space. 4 Late 19th-century Egyptian octa gonal mother-of-pearl, rosewood and bone inlaid table, £1,950, Lor fords Anti ques. 5 Vintage Berber Beni Ourain rug, £2,280, Larusi. 6 ‘Thebes’ stool, £480, Max Rollitt. 7 Old Moroccan tray, from £155; folding table stand, £40; both Re. 8 Vintage Berber Beni Ouarain rug, £2,520,

Larusi. 9 ‘Topkapi’ lantern’, £11,300, Soane. All prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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ACCESSORIES TEXTILES LIGHTING FURNITURE TECH

Register now atMONOQI.co.uk

and discover handpicked design from around the world every day

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SHORTLIST

I ndian 1 ’Choodi’ split bamboo and cotton blind, from £9.60 per s q ft; 2 ‘Barfi’ split bamboo and cotton blind, from £10.80 per sq ft; both Joss Graham. 3 Classic mother-of-pearl-inlay chest of drawers, £1,295, Graham &Green. 4 Reclaimed teakwood Indian bedside cabinet, £198, Indigo Anti ques. 5 Blue stripe dhurrie, £5,400, Guinevere. 6 Nineteenth-century Indian teakwood chest, £820, Indigo Anti ques. 7 Nineteenth-century Anglo-Indian low table, £5,500 for the pair, Westenholz Anti ques. 8 Indian bone-inlay mirror, £375, Joss Graham. 9 Red and blue check dhurrie, £6,480, Guinevere. 10 Indian softwood and papier-m âch éelephant, £4,500 for the pair, Lassco. 11 ‘Truck Art’ chair, £149; 12 Pietra dura inlaid marble table, c1970, £1,500; both Joss Graham. 13 George III-style Anglo-Indian ebony dining chair, £2,160 for the pair, Guinevere. All prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book $

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1 Designer Kevin Reilly and a small team of artisanshave created an elegant and meticulously hand-crafted collection of chandeliers, sconces, oorlamps, table lamps and outdoor lighting. Every x-ture is designed to create a warm and inviting space,and to serve a sculptural purpose in its setting. Alsorenowned for his distinctive wax candles, Reilly hasdesigned lights for celebrities and designers inter-nationally. Today his elegant collection is featuredat Gotham’s showroom in Notting Hill. Shown:‘Lucerne’ pendant. Gotham Notting Hill, 1 PembridgeVillas, 17 Chepstow Corner, London W2 (020 7243 0011; gothamnottinghill.com). 2 Natural architecture, pat-tern and structure borrowed from nature are at the

heart of Porta Romana’s ‘Elemental’ lighting collec-tion. That could be anything from honeycomb andmolten lava to owing water, burnt wood and pre-cious stones. Lampshades with sumptuous velvetsand fabulous prints are luxuriously decorated withall the richness of the spice trail. For the ‘Abacus’table lamp, smooth, geometric forms are stacked ina random way, adding an almost ‘Scandi’ cool. Itspale, washed look is ‘Elemental’ to the core, in termsof material and shape. Hand-turned in solid ash,sanded and waxed to a matt nish, this i s honestBritish craftsmanship at its best. Paired here withtheir new ‘Geo’ print shade. F or more information, ring020 7352 0440, or visit visit portaromana.co.uk.

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network S ophia S alaman chooses the best merchandise and events worldwide

$ Milan’s newly opened Mandarin Orientalhotel occupies four 19th-century buildingsrenovated by architects Antonio Citterio andPatricia Viel. Each of its 104 guest rooms fea-tures furniture by B&B Italia and Maxalto, in-cluding ‘Jean’ armchairs and ‘Febo’ ottomans,while the 32 suites all have an ‘Alcova’ bed. Thegarden areas are fitted with ‘Charles Outdoor’sofas and ‘Papilio Outdoor’ armchairs. B&BItalia, 250 Brompton Rd, London SW3 (0207591 8111; bebitalia.com).

$ Based in New Zealand, Simply Pure has won

numerous awards for its ’Black Robin’ rare gin

and ‘Blue Duck’ rare vodka, which is made with

New Zealand spring water and is distilled seven

times. Not only does the company produce prize-

winning spirits, it also helps to conserve the en-

dangered birds behind its branding – a percentage

of its profits are donated to charity, helping to pro-

tect these vulnerable species. Ring 00 64 21 882

432, or visit simplypure.co.nz.

$ Pasquale Natuzzi’s eponymous company,which he founded in 1959, is now Italy’s larg-est furniture manufacturer. Every piece is de-signed by a team of 120 architects, craftsmen,colour experts, engineers and furniture spe-cialists, who place special emphasis on styleand function in order to achieve harmoniousdesigns. Shown here is the ‘Long Beach’ sofa,by Claudio Bellini, featuring thin armrestsand wide seats to ensure maximum comfort.Natuzzi, 80-81 Tottenham Court Rd, LondonW1 (020 3131 3448; natuzzi.co.uk).

$ Since it was founded in 1992, cabinetmaker

Christopher Peacock has opened showrooms inChicago, Boston and San Francisco – and it now

adds London’s Design Centre Chelsea Harbour to

the list. Having established itself as a global leader

in luxurious interiors, the company creates ex-

ceptional designs for every room o f the house,

including kitchens, dressing rooms and bathroom

suites, as well as libraries, wine-tasting rooms or

even a pantry for the butler. Christopher Peacock,

Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10

(020 7100 4423; peacockhome.com).

$ Beaumont & Fletcher’s ‘Cathay’ fabric evokes

the graceful chinoiserie papiers peints popular in

France in the 18th century. It combines scenes of

courtly life with beautifully drawn exotic flowers and

pagodas, elegantly arranged on silk taffeta, and is

available in a range of colourways. Beaumont &

Fletcher, 261 Fulham Rd, London SW3 (020 7352

5594; beaumontandfletcher.com).

$ For more than 60 years Agresti has been cre-ating stylish handmade strongboxes, chestsand fine furniture in its Florence studio, usinghigh-quality leather, crystal, suede, stone andbrass, all of which are carefully sourced. Thestrongboxes can be designed to store jewelleryof any sort, though other specifications in-clude compartments for pens, watches, cigarsand wine bottles. Agresti, 4 Via Brera, Milan20121 (00 39 02 7200 0637; agresti.com).

$ Collier Webb designs and manufactures high-

quality metalwork, lighting and furniture from its

foundry in East Sussex, working with brass hard-

ware and restored antique metals, as well ascreating bespoke pieces. Its various projects in-

clude lighting for The Norman hotel in Tel Aviv and,

most recently, the new hotel in the Arts Club on

London’s Dover Street. Designer David d’Almada,

who was involved in both projects, says: ‘Colli er

Webb is unique because of its attention to detail,

British design and manufacturing ethos.’ Collier

Webb, 68 Pimlico Rd, London SW1 (020 7373

8888; collierwebb.com).

$ This year Stepevi celebrates the tenth anni- versary of its London showroom on the King’sRoad with a renovation and relaunch. Spread

over three floors and covering 400sq m, thenewly refurbished space has been designedby architect and interior designer ZeynepFadilloglu. A neutral colour palette of cream,beige and greys creates the perfect environ-ment to showcase the Turkish company’s rugcollections, while the space itself acts as astudio of sorts, where clients can work withthe Stepevi team to create their perfect carpet.Stepevi, 274 King’s Rd, London SW3 (0207376 7574; stepevi.com). r

‘Long Beach’sofa by Natuzzi;

kitchen cabinetryby Christopher

Peacock;python-and-

wood jewellerybox by Agresti;

lighting inThe Norman,

Tel Aviv, byCollier Webb

From top:Stepevi’sKing’s Roadshowroom; theoutdoor bar atthe MandarinOriental inMilan; Mingblue ‘Cathay’wallcoveringby Beaumont& Fletcher;

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1 1 9 A R T L I G H T I N G S

More than 1000 designs in our new showroomand on Perzel.com• 3D visualization of all models.

Creator - maker since 19233, rue de la Cité Universitaire 75014 Paris• tel. + 33 (0)1 45 88 77 24 fax. + 33 (0)1 45 65 32 62Tuesday to Friday: 9 am -12 noon / 1 pm - 6 pm• Saturday: 10 am -12 noon / 2 pm - 7 pm

Catalog 128 p. $ 30 reimbursed at your first purchase

network

Above left: platinum ‘Chisel’ fine porcelain dinnerware from the ‘RoyalSuite’ collection by Stefano Ricci. Above right: baby ‘Olimpia’ bag

by Bottega Veneta. Bottom: basket by Marni for Associazione Vimala

S ophia S alaman chooses the bestluxury merchandise worldwide

$ For more than 40 years Stefano Ricci, the Italian tailor dubbed the‘king of ties’, has made stylish and luxurious outfits for men. His newhomeware range, the ‘Royal Suite’ collection, is unsurprisingly everybit as covetable as his clothes, boasting cashmere blankets, embroi-dered tablecloths, sheets made from linen and silk, hand-engravedcrystal glasses and sterling-silver cutlery plated with 24ct gold. Ring00 39 055 61 811, or visit stefanoricci.com.

$ The promise of sunkissed days in exotic climes is written all over Bottega

Veneta’s 2015/2016 women’s cruise collection. Jackets are tailored and

matched with high-waisted trousers and cropped cardigans or sweaters,

while materials are casual and comfortingly soft: suede, double-faced

cashmere, woollens, cottons and silks all make an appearance. Bottega

Veneta, 33 Sloane St, London SW1 (020 7838 9394; bottegaveneta.com).

$ In time for Christmas this year, the Italian fashion house Marni hascollaborated with the charity Associazione Vimala to create a collec-tion of limited-edition baskets, on sale 4-11 December. Availablein a variety of eye-catching colours, each one is traditionally hand-woven by artisans in Colombia. Proceeds will go towards helpingthe foundation with its work: restoring and maintaining schoolsfor ill, abandoned or severely disabled Indian and Tibetan children.Marni, 26 Sloane St, London SW1 (020 7245 9520; marni.com).

$ Though its roots lie in the manufacture of alpine sleeping bags and

workmen’s coats, Moncler is better known for its stylish, desirable – andluxuriously cosy – quilted down jackets. For its autumn/

winter 2015 collection, the French/Italian brand

has updated its classic parka, combining jacquard

and macramé with botanical and animal

prints in subtle tones of beige, grey and

taupe, while Moncler’s recognisable fur

trimmings come in soft fox, Mongolian

and Persian lamb’swool, beaver and

mink. Moncler, 197 Sloane St, London

SW1 (020 7235 0857; moncler.com). r

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1 0 0 % L I N E N F A B R I C

C U R T A I N S

B E D & T A B L E L I N E N

+ 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 7 2 8 6 3 5 0 2 0

I N F O @ V O L G A L I N E N . C O . U K

W W W . V O L G A L I N E N . C O . U K

network

Above left: ‘Puzzle’ bag by Loewe. Above right: platinum-and-diamond key pendant from the ‘Victoria’ collection by

Tiffany. Bottom: stainless-steel ‘Oyster Perpetual’ watch by Rolex

$ Loewe started as a co-operative of leather artisans in Madrid in1846. Over a century and a half, i t has grown to become one of theworld’s leading luxury brands, producing womenswear, menswear,shoes, accessories and, of course, its trademark leather bags. Thecompany’s new creative director, JW Anderson, now adds his ownprismatic contribution, with the funkily asymmetrical ‘Puzzle’ bag.Loewe, 125 Mount St, London W1 (020 7499 0266; loewe.com).

$ The jeweller Francesca Amfitheatrof has, over the years, sprinkled her

own brand of creative gold dust over collections for Chanel, Fendi, Alice

Temperley and Asprey & Garrard. Now design director of Tiffany & Co,

this graduate of the Royal College of Art has waved her magic wand over

three of its classic collections – ‘Victoria’, ‘Bow’ and ‘Infini ty’ – reinterpret-

ing them with clever modern touches for a new generation. Tiffany & Co, 25Old Bond St, London W1 (0800 160 1114; tiffany.co.uk).

$ Louis Vuitton has collaborated with the luxury publisher MaisonAssouline to create a delightful coffee-table tome, Louis Vuitton

Win dows . A celebration of the retailer’s theatrical displays, the bookfeatures an introduction by Vanessa Friedman, fashion directorand chief fashion critic of the New York Times . Louis Vuitton’s store-fronts have long cast a spell over the crowds that wander by, andimages, ranging from golden dinosaurs and brightly colouredhot-air balloons to a universe of polka dots, appear in the booklike works of art in their own right. Maison Assou-line, 196a Piccadilly, London W1 (020 3327 9370;

assouline.com).$ In 1931 Rolex patented the world’s first self-wind-

ing watch and christened it the ‘Oyster Perpetual’.

In 1953 it launched the ‘Oyster Perpetual Subma-

riner’, waterproof to a depth of 100m, which be-

came the timepiece of choice for rugge d men of

action (James Bond wore one in a number of Ian

Fleming’s novels). Still in production over eight dec-

ades on, though its look may have changed with fash-

ion, the ‘Perpetual’ remains a symbol of sturdiness

and reliability. Visit rolex.com $

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T H E WO R L D O F I N T E R I O R S PROMOTION

Trevor Pickett launched the quintessentially English leather companyPickett in 1988 and has continued to provide exclusive luxury goodsthat represent this artisanal craft in its nest form. The brand offers amyriad of wonderful gifts and products, and, with its ‘anything is pos-sible’ ideology, can also offer a bespoke service. The company’s boutiquestores make shopping a journey of delight, and if it’s a trip you’re pur-chasing for, its bags and travel accessories are the nest on offer.

With its contemporary twist on the classics, Pickett offers the nostalgic

glamour of travel while supplying all that the modern jet-setter needs.Whether escaping for a weekend in the British countryside or adven-turing to far-off lands, Pickett’s beautifully crafted cases and bags, allhandmade in England, are the ideal choice for the traveller of distinction.

The new range of lightweight but durable canvas luggage, witha classic bridle trim, makes even business travel a joy. Available in aselection of sizes, colours and trims, they make the ideal gift or personalindulgence for every discerning shopper that knows life is about the journey, not the dest ination. Shown here, clockw ise from top left: theclassic holdall; weekend holdall; travel bag; canvas one-pocket briefcase;and wash bag – all in navy canvas with dark-brown leather tr im.F or more information, ring 020 7493 8939, or visit pickett.co.uk

Pickett ’s new leather-trimmed canvas bags offer nostalgic glamour for the modern jet-setter

INTO THE BL U E

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Abbott & Boyd, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 73519985; abbottandboyd.co.uk). Alpkit, Units 12-14, Oak House, Engine Lane,Newthorpe, Nottingham, NG16 3QU (01773 417007; alpkit.com). Altfield, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 7351 5893; altfield.com). Amara. Ring 0800 587 7645, or visit amara.com. Aram, 110 DruryLane, London WC2 (020 7557 7557; aram.co.uk). Au Bain M arie, 56 Ruede l’Université, 5007 Paris (00 33 1 42 71 08 69; aubainmarie.fr).Bear andBear. Ring 020 3735 9002, or visit bearandbear.com. Beaumont & F letcher, 261 Fulham Rd, London SW3 (020 7352 5594; beaumontandfletcher.com). Best M ade Company, 36 White St, New York, NY 10013 (001646 478 7092; bestmadeco.com). By J ohanne, 2 Rue des Archers, 69002Lyon, France (00 33 4 78 84 43 47; by-johanne.com). C& C M ilano, DesignCentre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 3583 3303; cec-milano.com). Cedes M ilano. Ring 00 39 02 495 29106, or visit cedesmilano.com.Channels, 1-3 New King’s Rd, London SW6 (020 7371 0301; channelsdesign.com). Charles E dwards, 582 King’s Rd, London SW6 (020 7736 8490;charlesedwards.com). Christopher F arr Cloth. Ring 020 7349 0888, or visit christopherfarrcloth.com. Collier Webb, 68 Pimlico Rd, LondonSW1 (020 7373 8888; collierwebb.com).Colony, Design Centre ChelseaHarbour, London SW10 (0844 369 0104; colonyfabrics.com). CotswoldO utdoor. Ring 01666 575500, or visit cotswoldoutdoor.com. Czech & S peake, 54 Pimlico Rd, London SW1 (020 8983 7400; czechandspeake.com). D avid M ellor, 4 Sloane Square, London SW1 (020 7730 4259;davidmellordesign.co.uk). Dedar, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, LondonSW10 (020 7351 9939; dedar.com).D esigners G uild, 267 King’s Rd, LondonSW3 (020 7893 7400; designersguild.com).D ivertimenti, 227-229 BromptonRd, London SW3 (020 7581 8065; divertimenti.co.uk). E cco Trading, 8Ingate Place, London SW8 (020 7622 4274; eccotrading.com). F arfetch. Ring 020 3510 0670, or visit farfetch.com.F ield N otes. Ring 001 312 243

1107, or visit fieldnotesbrand.com. F ieldcandy. Ring 01246 470002, or visitfieldcandy.com. F rom the Tribe, 4 Princes Buildings, Bristol BS8 4LB (07971560777; fromthetribe.com). G eoffrey D rayton, 104 High St, Epping, EssexCM16 4AF (01992 573929; geoffreydrayton.com).G eorge S mith, 587-589 King’s Rd, London SW6 (020 7384 1004; georgesmith.co.uk). G lobe -

Trotter, 35 Albemarle St, London W1 (020 7529 5950; globe-trotter.com).G P &J Baker, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 73517760; gpjbaker.com). G raham & G reen, The Perfume Factory, 140 WalesFarm Rd, London W3 (020 8987 3700; grahamandgreen.co.uk). G uinevere, 578 King’s Rd, London SW6 (020 7736 2917; guinevere.co.uk).Hästens, 66-68 Margaret St, London W1 (020 7436 0654; hastens.com). Hermès, 155 New Bond St, London W1 (020 7499 8856; hermes.com).Holland & S herry, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 7352 7768;hollandandsherry.com). Holloways of Ludlow, 121 Shepherd’s Bush Rd,London W6 (020 7602 5757; hollowaysofludlow.com). Howe, 93 Pimlico

Rd, London SW1 (020 7730 7987; howelondon.com).Ian

Mankin. Ring020 7722 0997, or visit ianmankin.co.uk. Ikea. Ring 020 3645 0000, or visit

ikea.com. Indigo Antiques, The Dairy Barn, Manningford Bruce, Wilts SN96JW (01672 564722; indigo-uk.com). J am S pace, 118 Fulham Rd, LondonSW3 (07903 820655; jamspace.uk).J amb, 95-97 Pimlico Rd, London SW1(020 7730 2122; jamb.co.uk). J ohn Lobb, 9 St James’s St, London SW1 (0207930 3664; johnlobbltd.co.uk). J oss G raham, 10 Eccleston St, LondonSW1 (020 7730 4370; jossgraham.com). K aufmann M ercantile. Ring 001 844716 8511, or visit kaufmann-mercantile.com. K eshishian, 73 Pimlico Rd,London SW1 (020 7730 8810; keshishiancarpets.com). K irkby D esign. Ring01623 750005, or visit kirkbydesign.com.K ravet, Design Centre ChelseaHarbour, London SW10 (01202 266700; kravet.com). Labour and Wait, 85 Redchurch St, London E2 (020 7729 6253; labourandwait.co.uk). r

ADDRESS book

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+44 (0 ) 333 011 3333 At Home Design Service available

Mayfair I Knightsbridge I Notting Hill I Chelsea I Clerkenwell

Battersea I Wandsworth I Tunbridge Wells I Oxshott

L O N D O N

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ADDRESS book

Larusi. Ring 020 7428 0256, or visit larusi.com.Lassco, 30 WandsworthRd, London SW8 (020 7394 2100; lassco.co.uk).Les Indiennes, 444Warrant St, Hudson, NY 12534, USA (001 518 828 2811; lesindiennes.com). L izzo, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 78233456; lizzo.net).London U ndercover, 20 Hanbury St, London E1 (0207482 4321; londonundercover.co.uk). L orfords Antiques, BabdownAirfield, Tetbury, Glos GL8 8YL (01666 503970; lorfordsant iques.com). Louis V uitton, 17-20 New Bond St, London W1 (020 3124 9200;louisvuitton.com). M argaret Howell, 34 Wigmore St, London W1 (0207009 9009; margarethowell.co.uk). M ax Rollitt. Ring 01962 791124, or visit maxrolli tt.com. M erci, 111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris(00 33 1 42 77 00 33; merci-merci .com).M r Porter. Ring 0800 044 5705,or visit mrporter.com. The N ine S chools. Ring 0117 332 3673, or visitthenineschools.co.uk. N obilis. Ring 020 8767 0774, or visit nobilis.fr. N omess, 120 Aarhusgade, 2150 Nordhavn, Copenhagen (00 45 39209209; nomess.dk). O bjects of U se, 6 Lincoln House, Market St, OxfordOX1 3EQ (01865 241705; objectsofuse.com).O sborne & L ittle. Ring020 8812 3123, or visit osborneandlittle.com. Palomar. Ring 00 39 055212160, or visit palomarweb.com. Paolo M oschino for N icholas Haslam, 12-14 Holbein Place, London SW1 (020 7730 8623; nicholashaslam.com). Pedlars, 128 Talbot Rd, London W11 (020 7727 7799; pedlars.co.uk). Perigot, 16 Boulevard des Capucines, 75009 Paris (00 33 1 53 4098 95; perigot.fr). Pierre F rey, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, LondonSW10 (020 7376 5599; pierrefrey.com). Poltrona F rau, 147-153 FulhamRd, London SW3 (020 7589 3846; poltronafrau.com). Rachel & M alika’s, Unit 34, 3rd Ave, Brixton Village, London SW9 (020 7326 0587; malika.org.uk). Rafael V alls, 11 Duke St, London SW1 (020 7930 1144; rafaelvalls.co.uk). Raft F urniture, 184 Tottenham Court Rd, Lon don W1 (020 37286139; raftfurniture.co.uk). Ralph Lauren Home, 1 New Bond St, London

W1 (020 7535 4600; ralphlaurenhome.com). Re, Bishops Yard, Main St,Corbridge, Northumberland NE45 5LA (01434 634567; re-foundobjects.com). Robert Allen, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10(020 7352 0931; robertallendesign.com). Robert K ime, 121 KensingtonChurch St, London W8 (020 7229 0886; robertkime.com). Rose U niacke, 76-84 Pimlico Rd, London SW1 (020 7730 7050; roseuniacke.com).Rubelli / D onghia, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (0207349 1590; rubelli.com). S amuel & S ons, Design Centre Chelsea Har-bour, London SW10 (020 7351 5153; samuelandsons.com). S hipton & Heneage, 631-633 Fulham Rd, London SW6 (020 7165 7647; shipton.com). S ibyl Colefax & J ohn F owler Antiques, 39 Brook St, London W1(020 7493 2231; colefaxantiques.com). S kandium, 245-249 BromptonRd, London SW3 (020 7584 2066; skandium.com). S mythson, 40 NewBond St, London W1 (0845 873 2435; smythson.com). S oane, 50-52Pimlico Rd, London SW1 (020 7730 6400; soane.co.uk). S onna African

Text iles, 53 Wentworth St, London E1 (020 7247 2759; sonna.com).S ummit F urniture, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10(020 7795 3341; summitfurniture.com). S undays London. Ring 07921516156, or visit sundayslondon.com. S venskt Tenn, 5 Strandvägen,11451 Stockholm (00 46 8 670 1600; svenskttenn.com). Tissus d ’Hélène, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (020 7352 9977;tissusdhelene.co.uk). Turnell & G igon, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour,London SW10 (020 7259 7280; turnellandgigon.com). Twentytwentyone,274-275 Upper St, London N1 (020 7288 1996; twentytwentyone.com). V iaduct, 1-10 Summers St, London EC1 (020 7278 8456; viaduct.co.uk).Westenholz Antiques. Ring 01279 842545, or visit westenholz.co.uk.Z immer & Rohde, Design Centre Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 (0207351 7115; zimmer-rohde.com) $

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With a staircase inspired by a villa on Capri and an impluvium referencing ancients, Rome-based practice Lazzarini Pickering’s design for Bluff Housthe Chilterns brings the Continent to the English countryside. But with Japane

screens, Irma Stern paintings and a Jain deity hidden in a hedge, it’s not juEurope that gets a look-in, as Lee Marshall learns. Photography: Annabel El

The back part of the T-shaped entrance pavilion, stretching out from behinda topiary arch, houses a 19th-century Murano-glass chandelier. In the foreground, an outside seat conceals ventilation ducts from the kitchen below,while the chimney on the right is that of the fireplace in the master bedroom

I TA L I A N J O B ?

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In the living room a pair of dragon mirrors, intended for the Brighton Pavilion, flank a painting by Australian artist Sidney Nolan – ‘his answer Monet’sWater Lilies ‘, says the owner. The sofa was designed by LazzariniPickering. Its trapezoidal sections can be used as either footrests or tables

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This page, anti-clockwise from top: the ‘Library of Memory’. Behind the sofa hangs one of a pair of magnificent six-panel Japanese screens. The architects designed thcum-side tables either side of the sofa; the owner’s study is found through a door in the library. The Batavian bureau was made in c1740 from highly prized calamandshow-piece for a senior official in the Dutch East India company; the swimming pool is set below the back entrance of the house, surrounded by wild-flower meadows an

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Top: the steps, which lead down from the entrance pavilion to the dining room, were modelled on those of Villa Malaparte on Capri, which famously featured in Jean-Luc Gfilm,Contempt . Above: the floor tiles in the kitchen are early 19th-century Sicilian, while the pineapple lamps on the far wall were designed by Baccarat in the 1970s fonightclub. Opposite: in contrast to the contemporary table, the grandfather clock dates from 1680. It was made by London clockmaker John Ebsworth and still contains its ori

AS I BEGAN to climb the southwest-facing escarpment of the Oxfordshire Chilterns, a red kite appeared from nowhere and

hovered on an updraught, perfectly still but for its quivering wing

tips. When I mentioned this to the owner of The Bluff a few min-utes later, he smiled in recognition of my delight. ‘They often watch

over me when I’m swimming in the pool,’ he says. ‘We may be only 50 minutes’ drive from London, but it’s another world here.’

It’s a world acknowledged as an area of outstanding natural beauty, high above the rolling farmland around High Wycombe

on a chalk ridge that provides a sudden challenge to cyclists after

miles of spinning. From the top, says architect Carl Pickering,

the Australian half of Rome-based practice Lazzarini Pickering,

‘There’s so much view you have to frame it.’The Bluff was designed as just that frame.

Pickering calls the unrepentantly contem-porary house he created with his studio part-ner Claudio Lazzarini as ‘a viewing point for

nature, a perfect refuge from which to take

in natural phenomena: you feel like you’re

outside, but you’re warm and you have a cup

of tea in your hand.’ The client, a globetrot-ting Australian businessman and collector,

concurs: ‘This is a wonderful house to be in

when it’s wild outside … you sit there and

watch the fronts rolling in.’It wasn’t always thus. Until a few years

ago there was another house here, an un-remarkable 1920s stone affair that literally turned its back on that great sweep of land

down below. To compound matters, adds

Pickering, ‘they kept planting hedges against the prevailing winds

– so in the end they must have forgotten what the view looked like.’Remarkably, Oxfordshire planners with a feel for the audacity

and low environmental impact of the project gave permission for

the house, which the present owner had bought in the 1980s, to be

torn down and replaced by a glass-and-steel structure built into

the hillside, just where the land starts to fall away. It develops along

two long axes which, when seen from above, are hinged a short way down their sides like an eccentric A.

None of this is visible when you enter the gates and, choosing

your direction (left or right? clockwise or anti?), scrunch around

the gravel of an oval drive fringed by box hedges that enclose a

lawn. Here, I later learn, the original house

once stood. The only structure on view is the

entrance pavilion – a dark cube of steel and

glass, backed by topiary arches that spring

playfully around each side of the uncommu-nicative box, softening its Modernist edges

and parsing the landscape into the manage-able dimensions of a fresco in a Renaissance

loggia. A lovely, weathered 1824 Coade copy of a Medici vase inside the pavilion nods at

the English country-house tradition that,

argues Pickering, the Bluff House project

respects far more than any Neo- Geor gian

mansion: ‘With its differently framed views and interest in antiquity, it’s a third-millen-nium interpretation of that tradition.’

The rest of the house is accessed from the

entrance portal via a trapezoidal flight of

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stairs that pays homage to the external steps of Adalberto Libera’s Villa Malaparte on Capri. Other references – such as the implu- vium in the drawing room that unites the two wings of the edifice – hark back to ancient Rome. At first sight, this seems the modern conversation space of a refined collector of Far Eastern and colo-nial art and antique furniture. But a sudden breeze alerts you to its most original feature: a skylight programmed to retract in fine

weather and close (as it does when I visit) at the first drop of rain.On facing walls in the drawing room, two early 18th-century

Japanese painted screens invite the outside in; the owner loves ‘the way the clouds and sky and pine trees of the screens flow out into the landscape’. This central hub is, in the conceptual scheme that underpin the house, a ‘Library of Memory’, displaying the owner’s cherished objects. It is a library for things, not books – the latter are stacked on shelves on the other side of the walls, a sleeve of culture turned inside out.

One recurrent theme of any Lazzarini Pickering house is its transformability. Here, laminated metal panels both connect and separate inside spaces, creating long vistas down the two wings. When opened, ventila-tion panels set into the walls create a dramatic enfilade to channel breezes inside playing mirror games with the lawn, trees and sky. On sunny days, electric fabric screens recast views in impressionistic black and white.

Bedrooms are arranged like train com-partments down the longest wing, so that when you sit in bed with the sunscreens up

you can almost reach out and touch the surrounding woods and meadows. Behind each bed, mounted on a panel that continues onto the ceiling above, is a De Gournay handpainted wallpaper screen with patterns in antique silvered gilt designed in collabo-ration with Lazzarini Pickering. Referencing the owner’s love of Japanese art, one elaborates on a cherry-blossom motif, another a weeping-willow theme, yet another a school of carp.

Other purpose-designed details include a huge sage-green curving sofa in the main living room, made to accommodate a whole houseful of guests with ease but also, in Pickering’s words, to ‘act as a hinge, figuring the rotation of the building’s two volumes’.

The garden holds a few surprises too: a scatter of fairy-tale fol-lies – among them a copper tree house with the Gothic frisson of something Catherine Morland might have expected to find at Northanger Abbey – and a pair of rainwa-ter ponds below the decked infinity pool. They may not look like much, but these chalk ponds almost brought the whole project to a halt when three great crested newts – a strictly protected species – were discovered in the smaller pond. ‘The whole site was cordoned off,’ the owner remem-bers. ‘And we had to dig the larger pond and persuade them to move house.’ They obliged, and now two families of three live in close proximity in an area of outstanding natural – and architectural – beauty $Lazz arini Pickering Architetti. Ring 00 39 063

210 305, or visit lazz arinipickering.com

Top: the cherry-blossom panel in the spare bedroom is one of the pieces designed by the architects with De Gournay. ‘We wanted to explore thepapier peint tradition’, says Carl Pickering.Above: the tree house, designed by Richard Craven, is faced in copper that has acquired a bronze patina over time. Suspended by the trees, its complex rigging was done byfrom Chichester. Opposite: the longer, cantilevered wing contains three bedrooms. The circular viewing platform in front was designed as a spot to watch the sun setting over th

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In a purpose-built Victorian studio once occupied by Whistler then Sargent,an enormous picture window sheds light on canvases painted en plein air

all over the globe, from Goa to Oman, and from Venice to New Jersey. They’re the work of the late Julian Barrow, whose journeys add a cosmopolitan

flavour to this beacon of bohemian Chelsea. Here Peter York cannothelp but pose in the Grand Manner. Photography: Andreas von Einsiedel

WINDOW ONTHE WORLD

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Previous pages: inthe lower studio,the huge salvaged18th-centurypedimenteddoorcase was apresent from theformer occupantof the top studio,

Norman Hepple.His portrait of Jonathan Barrow(the youngest ofthe five brothers,

who was killedin a car crashaged 22) sitson the centraleasel. This page,clockwise fromtop: a print of a(cropped) Annigoniself-portrait –Renaissance instyle but done in

1946 – hangs byframes leaningagainst a fabric-hung wall; theeasel painting atthe bottom leftis an early JulianBarrow of Eton;on the marblechimney piecethere is a typicalBarrow tablescape

– including hispainting of astupa in Thailandand a red

chinoiserie box;the wrought-iron chandelier,complete withhanging glassgrapes, isfrom Florence.Opposite: thehuge window andskylight stayuncovered. Theview takes in theRoyal Hospital’s

west face andGordon House

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Opposite: theupper studio inits ‘countryhouse drawingroom’ get-up.

Julian Barrow’s‘house portraits’hang cheek by

jowl above thesalvaged chimneypiece, anotherpresent from hispredecessor,

Norman Hepple.Clustered roundare a bergère sofaand a Charles II-style chair, bothVictorian. Thispage: the room ispainted in Farrow& Ball’s ‘BookRoom Red’. Its1610 salvagedItalian overdooris a one-timeprop of JohnSinger Sargent

JUST THINK ‘Chelsea artist’s studio’ and this one (or rather these two in the same Tite Street house) will pretty much cover all the bases. There’s scale and style – lofty ceilings, grand architectural salvage props – and a deep historic trail to every ‘Chelsea’ artist you’d expect. Of course Whistler, Sargent and Augustus John feature in the history of this house. And most of the Edwardian haut ton too.

And more recently, this is where Diana, Princess of Wales, and Lady Thatcher had their portraits painted by the American artist Nelson Shanks, a friend of the owner, within a few months of each other in 1994. This is where back in the 1930s all the Mitford girls trooped up to be painted by William Acton (WoI June 1994), brother of Harold. You can still buy their pictures on Chatsworth beer mats.

And this is where, over the past 50 years, another kind of portrait was produced – almost a thousand of them: portraits of grand houses in Britain, in-cluding Castle Howard and Shugborough Hall, and every sort of palace across the world from Venice to New Jersey. Step forward Julian Barrow, doyen of country-house painters.

Barrow lived and worked here from the mid-1960s. He married in 1971 and dwelt with his wife, Serena, in the small, rather basic flat downstairs until he died at the end of last year. His paintings are everywhere and of everywhere, from Venice to Bangkok, from Scotland and across India.

Later Barrow took over the equally large studio on the floor below, increasingly using the top-storey studio as a stand-in drawing room. Painted in Far-row & Ball’s ‘Book Room Red’, it is dominated by a great Robber Baron chimney piece – a salvage find

installed by Barrow’s predecessor, the painter Nor-man Hepple – with 19th-century animalier bronzes and family furniture from Cumberland converged around it and close-hung pictures above it. Here’s another characteristic set-piece. Above what Serena Barrow calls ‘a Tudoresque Court cupboard affair’ there’s an engraving by James Denison-Pender. Above it are two works by Julian Barrow: one of

New York harbour and, above that, Easton Neston. To the left is Goa, with Oman alongside. Just like a room from one of the houses Bar row painted, at first it seems more Chillingham than Chelsea.

That’s when you open the door, but look left or right and you couldn’t be anywhere else. To your right is that studio window, huge, purpose-built for maximum light and minimum distraction. You see sky and tall buildings, but not the neighbours. (In one of his best-known paintings, Julian Barrow did paint the Royal Hospital from up here, laid out below like an early 18th-century pleasing prospect). To your left, around the curtained window over Tite Street, is a great gilded-wood affair of columns and Corinthian capitals and a pediment from 1610, prob-ably liberated from a crumbling Tuscan palazzo in 1880. It’s a bravura bit of salvage taken by the stu-dio’s previous tenant from a store at the Royal Aca-demy Schools where he taught. He knew it belonged in Tite Street because it had once been Sargent’s.

John Singer Sargent worked here (WoI Oct 1998) – ‘the Van Dyck of Tite Street’, the supreme Grand Manner portraitist of the Gilded Age. Painter of that particular mix of English aristos and Amer ican plu-tos, of ladies and actresses… the compelling full-on Edwardian celebrity mix, all big hats and big hair,

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Top: hangingabove a Tudor-style press,the two largestpaintings are ofEaston Neston,the Baroquestately home inNorthamptonshire,and New Yorkharbour. They areboth works bythe studio’s lastoccupant – asis the oil sketchof a City livery hallto their right.Opposite: an 18th-century Dutchmarquetry cardtable standson Marmoleumin the landing,

whose curveslook oddly 1920sfor a buildingfrom the 1880s

set about with over-sized props and children, incan-descent with power. This is the world of Admiralty Arch, the new Piccadilly line and Mr Selfridge, the combination of those Neo-Everything buildings and an explosion of money and technology.

Taking over from Whistler, Sargent worked here from 1886 and lived next door at No. 31 from 1900, making an opening between the houses and a small

staircase up to the studio. By 1909 he’d had it with aristocrats, but still painted Edward VII on his death bed. He died in 1925 at No. 31.

As orderly as a bishop, Sargent, for huge prices, painted huge commissions for the masters of the universe here each day. His Grand Manner factory – the subject of a Max Beerbohm cartoon that shows an eager queue of beauties and matrons snaking down Tite Street – sealed the bond between Chelsea and the establishment. The area had grown from a village just outside London, via a development of purpose-built Tite Street studios for bankable bohemians like Whistler. By the time this studio house, No. 33, and its neighbour, No. 31, were de-signed by the very mainstream Colonel RW Edis (later knighted, he did the ballroom at Sandringham and the Great Central Hotel – now the Landmark – by Marylebone station), artistic Chelsea, with Tite Street at its heart, was on the metropolitan map.

The house was conventional by the lights of Ed-ward Godwin, who designed Whistler’s plain and purist White House on the corner in 1877 and went on to be the architect of choice for all the street’s bohemians. Edis built three big studios in No. 33 and three smallish flats to the other side of the stair-case. The exterior is upper-middle acceptable in the

‘Victorian Renaissance’ style. The staircase is oddly, anachronistically, Deco-looking and the studios are what their tenants and owners made of them, with their props and salvage, colour and collections.

As the Barrows had it until last year, the top-floor red-and-gilt studio was both a working stu-dio and the best London party room imaginable. Julian’s younger brother, Andrew, the writer and

novelist, held soirées here when his brother had gone downstairs to bed or when he went off to paint houses for maharajas and marchesas. Andrew can dredge up memories of these nights over four dec-ades. Quentin Crisp and Germaine Greer. Nicky Haslam and Beryl Bainbridge. John Betjeman and Shell heiress Olga Deterding. Ann Barr and ‘Fat Lady’ Jennifer Patter son. And Mick Jagger having a party in David Mlin aric’s ground-floor studio (once Augustus John’s) and the Stones arriving in a flower-decked horse-drawn taxi.

The parties and the sitters brought absolutely everyone here, from the Prince of Wales and Lily Langtry in the 1890s to Archbishop Ramsey in the 1970s (turning up from Lambeth Palace, just over the river, in his chauffeur-driven Morris Minor).

Over the years artistic Chelsea, the Chelsea of river views and Whistler’s ‘Nocturnes’, has mor-phed into smart Chelsea and pop star Chelsea and King’s Road parade Chelsea. Increasingly, as Oscar Wilde once said, the occupants of Tite Street put their genius into their lives, rather than actually painting. Wilde, of course, friend of Whistler and Sargent, lived opposite, at No. 34 $ Julian Barrow’s work can be seen by appointment at Browse & Darby. Ring 020 7734 7984, or visit browseanddarby.co.uk

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From left: Biedermeier book-matched walnut commode, c1830, £26,000 for the pair, Rose Uniacke. English tole cachepots, 19th-century, £2,950 forthe pair, Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler Antiques. Jasperware-and-brass mounted lamps, 19th-century, £980 for the pair, Max Rollitt. Picture rail with

antique brass finish, £132 per m; flame finials, £115 per pair; picture-hanging chain, £18 per m; rail eye hooks, £39 per pair; all Collier Webb. Gouachebird studies, by Christoph-Ludwig Agricola, £38,000 for a set of six; Group Portrait of the Bookseller Ernst Wilhelm Ziemssen and Family , by a member

of the Russian School, c1800, £38,000; both Rafael Valls. George IV giltwood sofa with scrolling acanthus arms and bolster cushion, c1830, £42,000,Rose Uniacke; covered with, from top: ‘Marrakech Stripe’, £610, Robert Kime; rouge ‘Fleurs de Steppes’, by Décor Barbares, £164, Tissus d’Hélène;

‘Sortilège LI748-32’, by Elitis, £120, Abbott & Boyd; trimmed with: ‘Lienzo 07’, £142.80, Lizzo. Cushions covered with, from left: rouge ‘Andrinople’,by Décor Barbares, £182, Tissus d’Hélène; ‘Termez’, £56; ‘Navoi’, £56; both Robert Kime. Early 19th-century yew-and-rosewood table, £2,800, Sibyl

Colefax & John Fowler Antiques. Large Korean makgeolli kettle, £39, Objects of Use. Aubusson carpet in the style of the Sallandrouze workshop,c1850, Keshishian. Hat and violin: stylist’s own. Fabric and trimming prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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Don’t know the drill when it comes to global styles? Let this corps of national costume put you at ease. With bonny

tartans and Russian reds, Jessica Hayns calls attention to home’s best from East to West. Photography: Bill Batten

DRESS PARADE

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From left, first chair: ‘Gillow’ dining chair, £2,275, Howe; dressed with, from top: ‘Helian 1922-813’, £130, Zimmer & Rohde; blanc ‘Toile de ReligieuseGL’, by Dominique Kieffer, £143, Rubelli. Second chair : ‘Gainsborough’ side chair, £1,502, George Smith; dressed with, from top: ‘Modus 10537-

891’, £88, Zimmer & Rohde; khaki ‘City Lux’ umbrella, £125, London Undercover; ‘Lienzo 07’, £142.80, Lizzo; ‘Charleston’ two-tone brogues, £189,Shipton & Heneage. Third chair: ‘Bradburn’ chair, £2,880, Jamb; dressed with, from top: grey-brown ‘Chamonix’, £150, Holland & Sherry;

‘Branca Stripe 68311’, by Schumacher, £119.20, Turnell & Gigon. Moorish-style table, c1880, £1,450, Sibyl Colefax & John Fowler Antiques. Stormlantern, by Feuerhand, £20, Objects of Use. Fourth chair: ‘Salon’ chair, £2,370, Howe; dressed with, f rom top: ‘Tina Paisley’, £75; red ‘Julia’, £75;

red ‘Fabiola’, £75; all Les Indiennes. Floor covering, from left: ‘Tina Stripe’, £75, Les Indiennes; pino ‘Lin Leger 17206-10’, by DominiqueKieffer, £82, Rubelli. Slippers and scissors: stylist’s own. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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From left: small Korean teapot, £30; storm lantern, by Feuerhand, £20; both Objects of Use. Chairdressed with, from top: indigo ‘Nîmes Weave SCH67910’, by Schumacher, £140.60; noir ‘Lange 69341’, by

Schumacher, £112.30; both Turnell & Gigon; rubber jika-tabi boots, £50, Objects of Use. Mat, hat andfishing rod: stylist’s own. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book

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‘Muston’ wing chair, £5,040, Jamb; exterior and cushion covered with: old colours ‘Logan MacLennan’, £180, Holland & Sherry; trimmed with,from top: ‘IF5901-86’ braid, £11, Turnell & Gigon; and apple-green ‘Aurelia’ brush fringe, £30, Samuel & Sons; interior covered with: red old colours

‘Grant’, £180, Holland & Sherry. Brogues, £4,284; buckles, £1,629.60; both John Lobb. Floor covering: pino ‘Lin Leger 17206-10’, by DominiqueKieffer, £82, Rubelli. Bottle: stylist’s own. Fabric and trimming prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book r

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From left, first chair: ‘Tub’ chair, £2,465, Beaumont & Fletcher; dressed with, from top: ‘Michelle Obama’s Shoes’, £68 per 5.5m,Sonna African Textiles; large Korean makgeolli kettle, £39, Objects of Use. Second chair: Regency-style elbow chair, £3,672, Howe;

dressed with zebra ‘Taranto’ loafers, £89, Shipton & Heneage. Floor covering: pino ‘Lin Leger 17206-10’, by DominiqueKieffer, £82, Rubelli.Necklace: stylist’s own. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book

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Regency mahogany armchair, c1830, £9,500, Howe; dressed with, from top: bib (and bodice below) made of midnight ‘Covet 10158-39’, by Donghia,£175, Rubelli; with flowers made of ‘Ninon 51267’, by Veraseta, £189; and leaves made of ‘Faille du Barry 5045’, by Veraseta, £268.40; both

Turnell & Gigon; blouse made of cottage white ‘Vineyard Linen Eyelet’, £229, Ralph Lauren Home; sleeves made of ‘Citrus 07’, £175.08; apron madeof ‘Milo 07’, £123.60; both Lizzo; skirt made of ‘Ninon 51227’, by Veraseta, £189, Turnell & Gigon. Floor covering: pino ‘Lin Leger 17206-10’,

by Dominique Kieffer, £82, Rubelli. Ribbons: stylist’s own. Fabric prices are per m; all prices include VAT. For suppliers’ details see Address Book $

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JO UR NE Y’SEN D

Sir Richard Burton – writer, linguist, adventurer – spent

wife built a trompe-l’oeil tent as a final resting placefor her knight errant in suburban London. But while

Mortlake is far from Mecca or Medina, the tomb, with

its gilt stars and marble panels, is a fitting shrine to arestless wanderer. Text and photography: Tim Beddow

Left: the exotic mausoleum is quite at odds with its backgroundof Victorian terraced houses. Above: during the last restoration,

in 2010, two large marble inscriptions were returned to their trueplaces on the door. They had been vandalised and moved in

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This page, clockwise from top: as part of the latest restoration, the tomb was treated with limewash, strengthening the porous sandstone;the frieze of stars and crescent moons was regilded in 2010; on the reverse side of the mausoleum is a high window, just visible here.

Visitors can climb a ladder to peer inside. Opposite: in 2010, a mirror was placed where the doorway once stood, reflecting the altar

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Above: in a stained-glass window donated by Isabel in the church’s lady chapel, Richard is depicted as a Medieval knight,kneeling at the feet of Saints Mary Magdalen, Joseph and Agnes. Opposite: Ernest Edwards’s photograph of Burton, taken in 1865

A QUIET Catholic churchyard in suburban Mortlake

might seem an incongruous last resting place for the intrepid

Captain Sir Richard Burton, described in his Times obituary as

‘one of the most remarkable men of his time’. He was buried here

in 1891, his wife, Isabel, joining him after her death in 1896. But the little mausoleum’s exotic design and contents – a mixture of Christian and Muslim imagery and objects – are unquestionably in harmony with the inseparable couple’s nomadic lives.

To précis his adventures and achievements could seem – certainly to Burton aficionados – an injustice to his extraordinary life. At the very least one must mention his daring journey in

disguise to Mecca and Medina, the subsequent trip to Ethiopia’s

forbidden city of Harar, followed by the four-year expedition, be-ginning in 1856, with John Hanning Speke in search of the source

of the Nile. Fluent in 25 languages, he published some 40 books,

in addition to translations of the K ama

Sutra and the Arabian Nights. As British

consul in Fernando Pó , off the coast of Equa torial Guinea, and then at Santos in

Bra zil, he explored West Africa and South

America. Later, he and Isabel roamed the

Middle East

and

Syria,

spending

months

under canvas. It was an unlikely union;

Isabel was an aristocrat and a staunch

Catholic, Richard a restless soul with a

passion for travel and obscure know-ledge. But their love was steadfast.

On being expelled from his consular

post in Damascus in 1871 – lack of po-litical skills was his undoing – Richard

telegraphed his wife: ‘Ordered off; pay,

pack and follow.’ This the devoted Isabel duly did. The following year, the Foreign

Office dispatched them to Trieste, where

they lived a quiet life, mainly writing, in

the elegant Palladian Palazzo Gossleth, until his death of heart failure in October

1890. The city gave him a full military fu-neral, with all the flags at half mast and most of the 150,000 inhabit-ants lining the streets to see the coffin pass, draped in a union jack.

Burton’s body was shipped home and met in Liverpool by Isa-bel, who had gone ahead with the 200 packing cases she could

afford to bring back. Although the palazzo had been an Aladdin’s

cave of treasures from their travels, including more than 8,000

books, there was little money (a mere £200), and she had to give

many of their possessions away to friends in Trieste.Their last journey together was by train to Euston, then by

hearse to the Catholic cemetery of St Mary Magdalen in Mortlake.

While some might have expected Burton to rest in a place more

in keeping with his former celebrity, Isabel’s family were buried

here, and so it was. What’s more, by 1890, he had been away from

home and absent from newspaper headlines for years, forgotten

by many. Shortly before his death, Burton expressed a wish that

he and his wife should ‘lie side by side in a tent’. Isabel observed

his request, designing their mausoleum to resemble the make-shift shelter he had made for their travels in Syria. This has often

been described as Bedouin in style, but while authentic ones are

usually low to the ground for protection against wind, the 1.8m-tall Burton designed his so he could stand upright when inside.

For the mausoleum itself, a 3.6 × 3.3m block of York stone was

laid on a bed of concrete. Above, the trompe-l’oeil ‘tent’ itself was

carved from Forest of Dean sandstone, known for its fine grain

and even colour, by Messrs Dyke of Highgate. Sloping gently in-wards from the base, the slabs were modelled to represent the flow-ing irregularities of canvas, with stone ‘ropes’ at the corners.

The door, a single piece carved to resemble a drop-curtain, was

originally mounted on gun-metal flanges, though it is now sealed.

Three marble plaques are attached: one shaped like an open book with the Burtons’ dates, a ribbon commemorating the donors and,

on the larger tablet below, a sonnet by the Irish writer Justin Huntly McCarthy. Below the crucifix, a band of gilt stars and crescents glit-ters in the sunlight. It’s been suggested that the Catholic hierarchy forbade the positioning of these crescents above the cross.

Inside, on a white Carrara floor, on marble bearers 15cm high, the caskets lie opposite each other: steel for Richard, mahogany for Isabel. At the back, a small stained-glass window with Burton’s coat of arms – a white dove

of peace flying towards the sun – was

placed to allow diffused sunlight to bathe

their coffins;

it

has

since

been

replaced

by a sheet of plain glass. Religious paint-ings hang over each coffin, while three of the original four Arabic lanterns are sus-pended above. The altar holds a marble

tabernacle with curtains of carved stone,

a number of Oriental-style candle-hold-ers and a pair of glass flasks, one of which

is believed to hold water, brought back

by Burton, from the holy Zamzam Well

at Mecca. On the floor stand oil lamps

and a charcoal brazier.Isabel lived in Baker Street, but made

frequent visits to her husband’s grave;

she was devoted to him in death as in life, even organising séances to attempt con-tact. Although suffering from cancer –

taking regular doses of morphine for the pain – she completed

a two-volume biography of her husband, The Life of Captain

Sir Richard F rancis Burton, which was published in 1893 to great acclaim. ‘With my earnings,’ she wrote, ‘I am embellishing his

mausoleum, and am putting up in honour of his poem “ Kasidah” , festoons of camel bells from the desert, in the roof of the tent

where he lies, so that when I open or shut the door … the tinkling

of the bells will sound just as it does in the desert.’ The strings of bells were connected to a small electrical shaker wired to a bat-tery that can still be seen at the head of Isabel’s coffin.

The tomb, listed Grade II* in 1973, has sadly suffered from

vandalism and neglect at various times, but the charismatic ad- venturer’s devoted followers have always come to its rescue – in

1921, 1971, 1974 and, most recently, in 2010, when a meticulous

three-month restoration by the Environment Trust for Richmond

upon Thames restored the mausoleum to its former glory. The

building is happily no longer at risk, and beneath its billowing

folds of carved stone, Lady Burton and the knight of her life lie at rest, as they once did in the Syrian desert $

St Mary Magdalen Roman Catholic Church, 61 North Worple Way, London SW14. Ring 020 8876 1326, or visit stmarymags.org.uk

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T H I S P A G E : ©

N A T I O N A L P O R T R A I T G A L L E R Y , L O N D O N

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This end of the portego overlooks the Grand Canal. Theallegorical grisaille overdoor, which shows Mary berating

the angel Gabriel for telling her that a baby is on the way, isin fact a digital reproduction commissioned by Victoria.

As the mother of seven children in 13 years, she held it dear

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MOVEABLE

FEASTSThe late Victoria Press was a perfectionist, and at herVenetian palazzo, she was forever summoning removals

men to rearrange her possessions into new ensembles. Suchrestlessness was fitting for the globetrotting self-taught

connoisseur, who also created memorable interiorsin London, New York and South Africa. ‘Every time she

entered a room it was as if she saw it for the first time,’discovers Marella Caracciolo. Photography: Tessa Traeger

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Top: in the drawing room, Victoria designed the lamps either side ofT e Rape of Europa (after Guido Reni) to match the chandelier, fromone of Venice’s many abandoned theatres. Above left: a bullion-fringed sofa combines with Indian tables inlaid with mother-of-pearl.

Above right: in the portego , lilac-filled Umbrian pharmacy jars sit on a rural Tuscan cupboard. The Medievalsgabello chair was made locally

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Top: a large pack of blanc-de-Chine ‘Fo dog’ incense holders guard a table made by neighbourhood cabinetmaker Maestro Barbon and coveredin vellum by Legatoria Polliero, a bookbinder in Campo dei Frari. Above left: Baroque Venetian chairs flank a north Italian lacquered

cassone. The windows consist of the city’s classic round discs set in lead. Above right: the French chaise longue is covered in Fortuny fabric

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Top: in front of a Flemish tapestry showing Pomona in her gardenhangs a mirrored witch’s ball, offering a distorted view of

the portego . Above: the 18th-century grisaille overdoors depictClemency and Dignity. Gilt decorations on the cobalt-blue

pot beneath illustrate bucolic scenes of China. Right: a classicMurano chandelier and mirror decorate the ‘yellow bedroom’.

Victoria commissioned the Baroque-style console table fromMaestro Barbon – now in his seventies, this local carpenter

developed his woodworking skills as a producer of artificial limbs

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Left: discovered by Victoria beneath several coats of varnish, thefrescoes in this bedroom are attributed to Giuseppe Borsato,

who also decorated La Fenice opera house and Napoleon’s suite in what is now the Correr Museum. Top: the reading area is close

to windows overlooking therio (side canal) and the garden – fromhere one can listen to the banter of the gondolieri below. None

of the fireplaces is in operation, since the flues were all filled withconcrete in the 1960s to give the building structural support.

Above: a detail shows Borsato’s delicate approach to painting trees

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Victoria Press was born in the USA in 1927, and she emerged in New York in the late 1940s as a fashion de-signer. After her marriage to South African tycoon Sydney Press in 1953 (they eventually divorced), she went on to create several memorable interiors in New York, London, South Africa, again London and finally Venice, where she died this past April at the age of 88. By then, and in the course of doing all those houses, she had become a self-taught connoisseur of architecture, furniture and gardens, mostly English. She developed an informed passion for Oriental porcelain, putting together a museum-quality col-lection of blanc-de-Chine. Part of it is displayed on white book-shelves she designed for the drawing room on the piano nobile of Palazzo Giustinian Persico, which overlooks the Grand Canal.

Victoria acquired the apartment in the mid-1980s and had been restoring and perfecting it ever since. Until the very last weeks of her life, says photographer Tessa Traeger, her long-time friend and the author of these pictures, Victoria was fretting over some unfinished details. A ‘good day’ for her meant summoning movers to change round her furniture so that she could look at the rooms from new angles. ‘Victoria was not someone who would rest with her stuff,’ says Patrick Kinmonth (WoI Oct 2014), the opera director and designer who helped Tessa style these post-humous photographs just as Victoria would have wanted them to be. ‘Someone once said that for most human beings the only time they ever see a room is when they first walk into it. Victoria was different. Every time she entered a room it was as if she saw it for the first time. Her detachment made her see things clearly. Her restless spirit was core to her creative vision.’

Venice turned out to be the ideal place for the easily bored Victoria. She discovered this in the early 1980s when she began renting a different palazzo every year for Christmas reunions with her seven children. Most of them would arrive accompa-nied by friends, spouses or beaux. Venice, Victoria discovered, offered the priceless bonus of encouraging all her guests to dis-perse during the daytime only to reappear, full of stories and entertainment, at the cocktail hour. In 1985, at the end of yet another family holiday, a friend suggested she come and see an apartment that had been on the market for some time. Always

up for a new adventure and a glimpse of something beautiful, Victoria accepted. ‘It was one of those opalescent days,’ she told me years ago, ‘when the city is pervaded by a thick air – not fog but a strange mist that covers everything like a veil.’ Palazzo Per-sico, with its red façade, delicately ornate windows and balco-nies, has a touch of the Orient about it that intrigued her. Built in the 16th century, it had been bought and enlarged two centuries later, she said, by a family of Persian silk traders; hence the name. When Victoria climbed the marble staircase and walked in, she discovered a series of rooms that had been brutally transformed into anonymous-looking offices. ‘As I opened the windows to let in the air and sunlight,’ she told me, ‘I heard myself saying: “I will take it.” I was surprised by my own words.’

Jane, the youngest of Victoria’s seven children, an environ-mental scientist and activist, lives in Venice with her husband, the architect, writer and broadcaster Francesco da Mosto, and their four children. She says Victoria’s imagination is what made her see beauty even where it had been banished. She recalls her mother’s excitement when, razor blade in hand, she uncovered fragments of original bucolic murals buried beneath decades of varnishes in a corner bedroom. They had been executed by Giuseppe Borsato, the same painter used by Napoleon to decorate the imperial rooms

at the Correr Palace in Piazza San Marco. For Victoria this moment of triumph was made even sweeter by the memory of enduring an earful from one of her sons about her having bought a palace that didn’t even have a fresco in it .

Other long-lost treasures were the sapphire-blue decorations on the dining-room ceiling, which Victoria later emphasised with a duck-egg-blue marmorino on the walls below, and a pink granite effect on the drawing-room walls. ‘These decorative elements became her cardinal points,’ says Jane da Mosto. ‘It gave her a compass to pursue her own Venetian adventure.’

Indeed, what Victoria Press thrived on in Venice was setting out to find the best craftspeople – be it cabinetmakers, gesso workers or upholsterers – the city could offer. ‘There was not one morning,’ Patrick Kinmonth recalls, ‘when Victoria did not come

out of her bedroom with a piece of paper on which she had sketched a new bit of furniture she wanted to have made immedi-ately.’ Some of these include the made-to-measure bookcases in the drawing room, a round table there on which she worked and a series of iron-and-brass torchères, copies of two 18th-century ones she had found at auction, which she placed on the sides of the Flemish tapestries in the portego, a wide elegant corridor typi-cal of Venetian palaces. ‘It wasn’t just about having things made, it was contact with the talented people she encountered which made this experience for her,’ says Jane, who through her organi-sation endeavours to give a platform to traditional arts and crafts. In a city whose economy is turning more and more towards mass tourism, they are increasingly crushed, she says.

‘What I’m trying to do at Palazzo Persico,’ says Jane, who has taken on her mother’s home, ‘is to use these rooms as a showcase for important projects in the city.’ She is involved with Mirabilia, a company that upcycles fabric from Fortuny and Bevilacqua – their designs feature prominently in the palazzo’s upholstery. ‘My organisation is founded on the belief that to save Venice, you need to save the Venetians,’ she concludes. It’s a conviction Jane shared with her mother and which resounds in every handmade detail – old and new – of these interiors, Victoria’s final accomplishment $F or more information, visit weareherevenice.org and mirabiliavenez ia.com. ‘Cheyne Walk: An Interior by Victoria Press’, an auction of the contents of her London home, will take place at Christie’s K ing Street on 18 Nov

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This page: Bhutan’s flag hangs on the ceilingof a brightly painted room. Opposite: blanketsfor visiting family and friends are kept stackedin a decorated extension of the altar room

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HIDDEN DRAGONPrior to 1974, Bhutan was closed to the outside world. And until recently, its rural farmhouses remained relativelyunknown too – that is, before a photographer stumbled across them while on assignment for Vogue . Focusingon one such secluded subject, he reveals the blazing murals and Buddhist altar rooms that mimic the country’sextravagant temples, while Robin Muir explains the allure of this Himalayan kingdom. Photography: Tim Walker

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This page, clockwise from top left: in a valley off the main road from Paro to Thimpu, vernacular architecture is dwarfed by the Hima-layan foothills; back in the farmhouse, a curtain of silk, cotton and felt separates the kitchen from the living room; a white prayer flagis tied to a stripped pine tree; in the altar room’s extension, another curtain divider hangs from an intricately decorated door frame

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This page, clockwise from top left: the altar, as seen from the extension room; elaborate window frames are common to farmhousesacross the country; the altar balances offerings, a devotional wax sculpture and plastic flowers, overseen by an effigy of the Buddha;farmhouses are among the oldest continually inhabited buildings in Bhutan, as new versions are built on the foundations of the old

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Top: offering cups sit beneath a mural of the Buddha in the altar room of the village’s main administration building. Beside themhangs a white welcome scarf. Above: a small prayer drum and a rolled painting join the vibrant wall decorations, which depictBuddhist symbols, stories and iconography. Opposite: a larger prayer drum, painted rafters and pink curtains dominate the room

Bhutanese rural architecture follows a standard pattern, with new farmhouses built on the ruins of the old, and mostly looking southeast. Certain features are therefore steeped in history. Though many sprang up around the d z ongs (Buddhist temples-cum-fortified-strongholds) that were founded in the 17th century, others go even further back. Rectangular, whitewashed and substantially built on two or three floors, they tend to look bigger than they are,

their projecting roofs of split pine adding to the illusion. The carved woodwork around the window frames and

the balustrade of the veranda that runs the length of the building is intricately detailed and finely painted (or fres-coed in the grander houses). Many still rely on a tradition-al system of interlocking beams that reinforce themselves one against the other. Floorboards are conspicuously wide, as timber is readily available from well-managed forests.

The ground floor provides storage for grain and shel-ter for livestock. On the whitewashed walls are painted religious symbols of protection, often of the garuda. When this half-man, half-bird flaps its wings, it creates storm-force winds that could destroy even the strongest timber-

framed house,

so

it

must

be

propitiated.

A ladder leads up to the middle floor, where a basic and

functional kitchen is located. Old ranges have not been dis-posed of, but on their flat iron tops balance modern hobs. Local food is similarly uncomplicated: strips of pork fat, dried yak’s cheese on a string, porridges and rice, all un- varyingly enlivened with chilli. Gastronomic tourism is un-likely to bother Bhutan any time soon. ‘What I would do,’ said Walker one evening sotto voce, ‘for a piece of broccoli.’

The kitchen leads into an eating area and then a central space, off which are further communal rooms. Here too is the heart of Bhutanese life, the prayer room. Daily rituals are followed in much the same way since a guru strapped himself to the rump of a flying tiger to found a lamasery on

an inhospitable ledge, thereby bringing Buddhism to a re-mote and ungodly kingdom. Guests and family members may also sleep in the prayer room, hence a stockpile of mat-tresses and blankets. (The main sleeping areas would be found on the second floor, customarily along side a weaving room and with storage space in the eaves.)

In a country awash with colour, it is the prayer room that provides it most vividly in the domestic setting, as if the other rooms were kept deliberately spartan and low-key to allow these walls to explode with life. Flower motifs are stencilled or painted onto the walls in vivid, elaborate and delicately worked colours, to mimic as far as possible the interior of a temple. From the painted wooden rafters and ceiling joists hang extravagantly woven curtains. Here, explains Walker, is ‘the decorative simplicity that sums up the Bhutanese and their extraordinary aesthetic sense. What was really touching during our trip was that they saw us making fashion pictures and understood it not as an intrusion but as a celebration of Bhutan’s natural beauty.’

As Elson put it: ‘The Bhutanese appear an accepting society. They do not seem fazed by a wild, redhead ban-shee dancing on the hillside as the sun goes down’ $

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THE S5 BUILDING AT THE GUIANA SPACE CENTRE –

EUROPE’S SPACEPORT IN KOROU, FRENCH GUIANA –

IS USED FOR THE FINAL PREPARATIONS FOR SATELLITE

LAUNCHES. HERE, THE SPACECRAFT FUELLING BAY IN

THE PAYLOAD COMPLEX, STARK WITH GYMNASIUM-

STYLE MARKINGS ON THE FLOOR, IS RENDERED TRAN-

QUIL THANKS TO MARTINS’S LENGTHY EXPOSURE TIME

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W E FO RM OU R C ON C E P T ION OF TH E UNIVE RSE F ROM R A YS B E A MING V A S T DIS TA N C ES , SO I T IS SOME H O W A P T THAT P H O T O G R A P H E R EDG A R M A R T INS S H OULD CA P T U RE TH E INNE R W O RKINGS OF TH E EU RO P E A N

S P AC E A GEN C Y – I T S MODULES , FUELLING BA YS A ND L A UN CH E R S – IN EE R IE LONG EX P OSU R ES . AT

F AC ILI T IES F ROM RUSSI A T O F REN CH GUI A N A , S T E P H EN P AT IEN C E L A UN CH ES H IMSELF ON A N ODYSSEY

L I G H T T R I PF A N T A S T I C

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AT THE YURI GAGARIN COSMONAUT TRAINING CENTRE IN RUSSIA’S STAR CITY, A

PRESSURE SUIT SITS IN FRONT OF A SOYUZ-TMA TRAINING MODULE, USED TO PRE-

PARE COSMONAUTS FOR TRAVEL TO THE INTERNATIONAL SPACE STATION. HUMAN

FIGURES ARE RARE IN MARTINS’S WORK – THIS SUIT IS, HOWEVER, UNOCCUPIED

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HISTORIC SPACE HARDWARE: SPACELAB – THE REUSABLE LABORATORY MOD-

ULE EMPLOYED ON 22 ORBITAL MISSIONS DURING THE 1980s AND 1990s – NOW

LIES DECOMMISSIONED, ON PERMANENT DISPLAY IN THE VISITORS’ CENTRE OF

THE AIRBUS DEFENCE & SPACE FACILITY IN BREMEN, NORTHWESTERN GERMANY

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TOP: LIKE HI-TECH LEGO, THE MOBILE GANTRY FOR THE VEGA LAUNCHER AT THE

GUIANA SPACE CENTRE BECOMES ALMOST ABSTRACT WHEN SHOT FROM BELOW.

LEFT: FUTURISTIC SOUNDPROOFING COVERS THE ENTRANCE TO THE COMPACT

PAYLOAD TEST RANGE, USED FOR TESTING ANTENNAE, AT THE EUROPEAN SPACE

RESEARCH & TECHNOLOGY CENTRE IN NOORDWIJK, A TOWN IN THE NETHERLANDS

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TOP: THE MERCURY TRANSFER MODULE – THE PROPULSION VEHICLE FOR BEPI-

COLOMBO, THE ESA’S FIRST MISSION TO MERCURY, DUE TO LAUNCH IN 2017 –

DURING ITS INTEGRATION PHASE AT THE AI RBUS AIT CENTRE IN STEVENAGE.

RIGHT: DALEK-STYLE BUMPS AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE CLEANROOM IN THE CEN-

TRE OF COMPETENCE SOLAR ARRAYS AT THE AIRBUS FACILITY IN OTTOBRUNN

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This page: shownhere are designs

for the bedspread,carpet and

lambrequin, or window drapery.

Opposite: on thefar wall is the door

leading to theempress’s chamber

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Before the fall of his empire in 1870, Napoleon III toured France in locomotive luxury. Two years earlier, it was

all change for one of his bedchamber carriages, and decorator du j our Félix-Alfred Ternisien was called on to pick

its fixtures and furnishings. Could it be the finest imperial interior never made ? Nobody knows, but the model is

stored in Maison Braquenié’s archive, where Marie-France Boyer gets the inside track. Photography: Eric Morin

MAJESTY IN MOTION

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This page,clockwise fromtop left: the reverseof the 3D modelshows a cut-out andcovered opening,describing thedoor between theemperor’s chamberand the corridorto his wife’s; all ofthe walls were due

to be decorated with Pompeianmotifs painted oneau-de-Nil panels;a pair of glasses andsome paperclipslend a sense of scaleto Ternisien’sexquisite model;the drawing shownhere depicts thetwo train windowson the unseen front

wall of the model;

the sleigh bed ismade of cardboardembellished withgold details.Opposite: one ofTernisien’s scaled-up, alternativegouache designsfor the carriage’scarpet is shownin contrast withhis final choice

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Clockwise fromtop left: samples of

taffeta, stuck tocard, are labelled

with the areasof the carriage

to which theycorrespond; a

gouache of thelambrequin lies

on the alternativecarpet design;

this 4cm-long

pencil drawing ofthe sleigh bed wasinked to indicate

the position ofthe bedspread; a

different designfor the bedspreaditself; pencil plansfor the carpets in

the main space, thealcove and the

corridor section

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DESTINATIONUNKNOWN

Deborah Turbeville achieved a sense of belonging at the Mexican ‘stagingpost’ she dubbed Casa No Name. Discovering the atmosphere she

craved in this semi-derelict house with an unfathomable past, the nomadicfashion photographer, famed for her dark style, surrounded herself

with plaster saints and wickerwork, piñatas and wood carvings – a homein a foreign land. Text: Robin Muir. Photography: Ricardo Labougle

In the courtyard, with its original Moorish archesand pillars, 18th-century frescoes depicting

biblical stories cover the walls – local legend hasit that they were painted by an itinerant priest.

Beyond a bougainvillea tree that Deborah lovedare a staircase and fountain, with a cantera

monkey figure, all added during the restoration

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In the sala , or living room, at the front ofthe house hangs a 17th- or 18th-century French

tapestry. Also French are the chandelier anddaybed, over which is scattered an assortment of

kilim pillows and a Russian fur coat. A petate (made from palm fibres and typically

used in Mexico as a bedroll) lies on the floor

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Top: on the other side of the sala , the chimney piece is made from carved cantera. The chair, right, is a classic product of Pátzcuaro. Above left: the entrance way showcases an antique European clock and an 18th-century mural depicting the Tower of Babel. Above right:

a colonial table holds a tin altar and a clay tree of life, while on the lower tier stand ceramic figurines from Michoacán. To the right is aheart-shaped colonial metal candle-holder. The niche holds a painting of the Virgin de la Candelaria, the subject of one of Deborah’s books

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Top: the kitchen displays a collection ofretablos , requests (for a quick recovery, say, or an easy childbirth) or thank-you messages paintedon metal panes and then taken to church as offerings. The metal-and-glass cross is typical of the work of San Miguel artisans. Above left:

on the stove’s hood are a carved wooden rendering of the 12 disciples and a straw Christ. Nearby, a piñata hangs from the ceiling. Above right: the fox mask, devil figures and doll clustered round the door frame are all papier-mâché. Mimbre wicker chairs surround the table

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Top: Deborah called the roof terrace her ‘hanging gardens of Babylon’. The cupola was added during the restoration to bring light into herdownstairs bathroom. Above left: in the guest-room on the second floor, a straw figure group typical of Michoacán sits on the chimney, and

above that is a Virgin in anic o . The bed, a metal colonial, is covered with Mexican woollenzarapes . Opposite: bougainvillea flowers add ablast of pink to the upper studio-cum-guest-room, where Deborah had the bed curtains plastered to create their special texture (above right)

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SOME TIME in 1984 the fashion photographer Deborah Turbeville made the long journey from New York to San Miguel de Allende, a former Spanish colonial town some 300km north of Mexico City. She was flying down to take a closer look at a house she had glimpsed after a fashion shoot amid the town’s Baroque architecture, and which might now be for sale. In Rome she had just photographed Cy Twombly, and the col-ours of the painter’s house led her to consider creating her own.

As a photographer, Turbeville would invariably place her models in a mise en scène of derelict buildings. Then she would distress the results to further remove them from any precise time or place, relocating them in a world of her own imagining. This crumbling house in a town with history might allow her to do the same, and she acquired it on the spot. ‘It was like some ugly child of mine,’ she said later, ‘that I coaxed into line to make beautiful.’

‘It was horrible, like a suburban house complete with avocado-coloured refrigerator,’ recalled her close friend Barbara Peters. ‘But the bones were there; it had perhaps been an old staging post, maybe 200 years old. It had so much potential … ’ Turbeville fo-cused on the half-ruined balcony; on the Moorish arches and pil-lars along the patio; and on the faded frescoes of biblical scenes. Two imposing doors led from the street into a covered reception area and then into a courtyard. It was an L-shaped house with a liv-ing room, a large kitchen and a walk outside to the main bedroom. There were four further bedrooms and a room for the ‘help’. Upstairs, one small bedroom faced the courtyard; behind it, a lar-ger room was used as a studio. The history of the house was unfath-omable, so Turbeville christened her new home Casa No Name.

‘In fact,’ she wrote years later, ‘it was a small casa that carried on inside like a village.’ At the back, next to the staircase that led to the roof, a bougainvillea tree climbed the wall like a giant un-furling umbrella. Its village-y feel was down in no small part to her own design for living. ‘The atmosphere was usually placid,’ says Peters,‘but then out of nowhere it would be punctuated by

blaring music, so that it felt like an opera house. Deborah created her own world and lived completely within it.’

She filled the house with birdcages, statues, wood carvings, plaster saints, wickerwork, broken dolls, crucifixes and tin can-dlesticks. It took her two years to renovate, though the friend over-seeing told the builders not to make too perfect a job of it, for ‘The señora likes it that way.’ It was in fact as much a deconstruction as a restoration. ‘I wanted a return to a beautiful ruin,’ explained

Turbeville, ‘a rehearsal for something that would never take place.’ The faded splendour of the nearby Hacienda Jaral de Berrio (WoI Aug 2009) was an immediate source of inspiration.

Atmosphere was fundamental to Turbeville. It marked out her photographs like nothing else. She told one interviewer from Vogue that she enjoyed not belonging ‘to any place or group and the same thing could be applied to my personal life. And it’s true of time too. I don’t want to belong completely to the present. There are things I love about the past. Atmosphere – I crave it the way some people crave food or sex.’ This reached a photographic apogee in U nseen Versailles (1981), a book of spectral, behind-the-scenes vignettes of Louis XIV’s pleasure-dome, and Deborah Turbeville’s Newport

Remembered (1994), in which the Gilded Age mansions of Rhode

Island are

revealed

in

all

their

desiccated

grandeur.Born into Bostonian wealth, Turbeville had been briefly a

model, then an assistant (and house model) to sportswear de-signer Claire McCardell, which she followed with stints as a styl-ist and editor at Harpers’ Baz aar and Mademoiselle. After attending a workshop led by Richard Avedon, she realised that making fashion photographs was her destiny. Not the bright, sporty, happy, outdoorsy ones that were then in demand, but dark, brooding and painterly ones, which were not.

Though she was all but self-taught, Turbeville’s career would last 35 years. At Vogue she made an impact with a set of pictures that remain her most famous, and a landmark of 20th-century fashion photography. ‘Do something remarkable, dear. I’m ex-pecting it!’ admonished Alexander Liberman, the magazine’s edi-torial director one day in 1975. In a dimly lit turn-of-the-century bathhouse on 23rd Street, she did just that. Five models posed languidly across the gloomy tiled walls in an eerie, subaqueous light. ‘I always quiet everyone down during a sitting, and there was not even a breath,’ explained Turbeville. ‘And everyone got really tense and was moving in this synchronised way … They moved like puppets. And when it was over there was dead silence.’

Though not when Vogue came out. There were howls of protest. Pale and unsmiling, the women looked disengaged if not trapped. Fashion editor Polly Mellen recalled: ‘The [pictures ] shocked every-one. You can’t imagine what people saw in them – everything from prisoners in a gas chamber to addicts in a shooting gallery.’

Turbeville’s life was nomadic and, although she had close friends, she was by many accounts self-contained. She was used to shuttling back and forth between the fashion capitals of New York, Milan, Paris and London. An apartment in the Beaux-Arts land-mark the Ansonia, on New York’s Upper West Side, was as near to home as she would allow, but here she kept the colours muted and the curtains drawn. ‘She didn’t like New York light, unlike the light of Mexico,’ says Barbara Peters. ‘She lived for her aesthetics. I told her if she didn’t get a comfortable chair I’d never come back.’

Casa No Name seldom made a good location for her fashion work; perhaps because the long journey to Mexico from wherev-er she had been working was itself an exhausting, creative pro-cess; perhaps because, at last, Deborah Turbeville, as mercurial and unknowable as her photographs, had finally come home $

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1 If you’ve spotted the leopard fabric in Vic-toria Press’s dining room (page 159), you’ ll want to make a dash for Alton Brooke to get

your paws on some: Luigi Bevilacqua’s emerald

‘Broccatello Fiere’ costs £ 290 per m. Ring 020

7376 7008, or visit alton-brooke.co.uk.

2 Consider a root-and-branch rethink of your bedroom décor, starting with the bronze

‘Truro’ floor lamp (£ 1,710) from Vaughan,

shown here with a cascade ‘Pembroke’ card

lampshade (£ 155) – dead ringers for those in

the

Venetian

bedroom

on

page

156.

Ring

020

7349 4600, or visit vaughandesigns.com.

3 Victoria Press’s distinctive gilt frames (page

154) might fox your average craftsman, but not

those from the Artistic Framing Company. Its

experts will fashion a hand-carved and bur-nished flat-fronted frame for your Titians and

Tintorettos from £1,500. Ring 023 9225 4477, or

visit artisticframing.co.uk.

4 Too busy to make a trip to China? The cream

silk upholstery in the canal-side drawing room

(page 153) – ‘Le Chinois’ by Tassinari

& Chatel – will transport you to a land of pagodas and willow trees, all from the comfort of your own

home, at a cost of £186 per m. Ring

020 7352 4798, or visit lelievre.eu.

5 Take a tip from Victoria Press

and add a touch of palatial luxury to your home with a bergè re chair

(page 150). We’ve settled on Mis

en Demeure’s elegant ‘Albi’ wing

chair (£ 1,113 approx). Ring 00 33 1 49 98 17 17, or visit misendemeure.com.

6 A dog may be man’s best friend, but not

if it messes up your beautiful palaz-zo. For hounds just as sweet and

much neater than the real thing,

follow Victoria Press’s lead (page

153) and opt for these incense-holding blanc-de-Chine pugs

from De Gournay, which are mod-elled on original Jiaqing pieces

(£ 1,654 for a pair). Ring 020 7352

9988, or visit degournay.com.

ins p i r ati o nS ome of the design effects in this issue , recreated by Augusta P ownall

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7 The bright hues found in this

rural Bhutanese farmhouse (page

160) might be an acquired taste,

but there’s no question that a burst

of colour against neutral tones lifts

the spirits. Designers Guild has a

rainbow of options. Pictured from

left: straw ‘Manzoni’ (£ 35 per m),

fuchsia ‘Allia’ (£ 45 per m), camella

‘Salso’ (£ 40 per m), ultramarine

‘Manzoni’ (£ 35 per m) and zinnia

‘Allia’ (£ 45 per m). Ring 020 7893

7400,

or

visit

designersguild.com.8 A decorated screen can bring a whole new world into a room, whether it be the dramatic

mountain-and-forest panelled landscape in

the Oxfordshire library (page 123), or this pleas-ingly domestic scene of kimonos hanging on

racks, which costs £ 900 from Altfield. Ring 020

7351 5893, or visit altfield.com.

9 Not only did Laz zarini Pickering design Bluff House, the duo were also responsible for many of its furnishings, including the ‘Megan’ table

lamp (page 123), which is made of gold Calacatta

marble and brass (£ 5,612 approx). Ring 00 39 2

49 52 68 00, or visit martasalaeditions.it.

10 Tiles are a practical option for the kitch-en, as the architects of this modern house know (page 124), but a sheet of trompe-l’oeil tiles on

vinyl is even quicker to install and easier to clean

too. Beija Flor’s ‘Flor de Lis’ costs £ 85 for a 60

× 97cm mat. Visit beijacarpet.com.

11 Never out of production since its very first

outing in 1955, the ‘P40’ chaise longue by Os- valdo Borsani (£ 6,452) makes a dramatic ap-pearance in the living room of this home in the

Chilterns (page 120). Ring Tecno on 020 7492

1850, or visit tecnospa.com.

12 Messy eaters should steer clear

of white dining tables, but if you

want to put your manners to the

test on something as simple

as the one in the Bluff (page

125), Ikea’s ‘Melltorp’ (£ 35)

is just the ticket. Ring 020

3645 0000, or visit ikea.co.uk. r

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ins p i r ati o n

1 Soaring ceilings call for furnishings on asimilar scale, like this painted George II WilliamKent frame from Jonathan Sainsbury ( £ 7,200).Its carved scallop-shell decoration and brokenpediment are a grand match for the doorcase inJulian Barrow’s atelier (page 128). Ring 01258857573, or visit jonathan-sainsbury.com.

2 How handy for the roll-call of artists in thisTite Street studio to be able to nip straight fromeasel to loo – and one decorated with a charm-ing rosette print at that (page 130). Get the look

with Colefax & Fowler’s small-scale patternedpapers: ‘Ashling’ (left) and ‘Larissa’ cost£ 58 perroll. Ring 020 8874 6484, or visit colefax.com.

3 We’re keen to help where we can, but we’llleave the choice of final resting place to you.In the meantime, we recommend the Raj TentClub’s ‘Bhurj’ tent (£ 3,150), which has the ‘cam-paign’ feel of 19th-century explorer Sir RichardBurton’s tomb (page 144) but is, thankful ly,firmly pitched in the land of the living. Ring 0207820 0010, or visit rajtentclub.com.

4 Fancy being transported to a courtyard

dappled with sunshine (page 182) ? MandarinStone’s Atlantic grey ‘Pebble’ tiles (£ 49.28 persq m) can even be laid on very small areas, tak-ing you one step closer to Mexico. Ring 01600715444, or visit mandarinstone.com.

5 Dorothy’s Tin Man longed for a heart, andwe’ve found one. From Milagros’ wide selectionof folk decorations comes this winged version,flying in at£ 12, which would fit right in on thekitchen walls of the Mexican casa (page 187).We’re also longing for a painted votive by the

three Vilchis brothers ( £ 120). Ring 0207613 0876, or visit milagros.co.uk.

6 Deborah Turbeville is best knownfor her moody photographs, and herMexican home was just as atmospher-ic. Her choice of heavy weaves on sofas,walls and cushions (page 184) puts usin mind of copper/bronze ‘Carpet Bag’(left; £ 250 per m) and plum ‘Bohem-ian Velvet’ (£ 129 per m), by MulberryHome. Ring 01202 266800, or visi tmulberryhome.com $

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GIOVANNA TICCIATI

STUDIO | STOREgiovannaticciati.com

Nicholas Her bert Ltd.Fa brics & Wall papers

118 Lots R oad London SW10 0RJ [ 020 7376 5596enquiries @nicho lasher bert .com [ www. nicho lasher bert .com

Fabric design: Coromandel

+44 (0)1235 859300 www.davidharber.com

6 , rue de l ’O déon 7500 6 P ari s / +33 1 55 4 2 92 10s erierare@ s erierare .com / www .s erierare .com

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O P P O S I T E : W H I T N E Y M U S E U M O F A M E R I C A N A R T

, N E W Y O R K . I M A G E

© W H I T N E Y M U S E U M

, N Y . T H I S P A G E

, T O P L E F T : P H

O T O : © A G N E S V A R D A

1 9 5 3

, C O U R T E S Y C A L D E R F O U N D A T I O N

, N E W Y O R K / D A C S

, L O N

D O N

. T O P R I G H T : C A L D E R F O U N D A T I O N

, N E W Y O R K

, U S A

. © 2 0 1 5

C A L D E R F O U N D A T I O N

, N E W Y O R K / D A C S

, L O N D O N

EXHIBITION diaryM otion carried , travels with Arthur M elville, p lus Charlotte E dwards ’s listings

A lexander C alder : P erf o rming S culpture TATE MODERN Ban ks ide , L o nd o n SE 1

The work of Alexander Calder (1 89 8-19 76 ) has rather disappearedin plain view: we’re used to the fact that almost every major mus-eum has one of his famous mobiles, but find it easy to pass by with-out feeling particularly challenged. Tate Modern’s new show seeksto remind us of the radicalism behind making the sculpture movefor us instead of us moving around the sculpture. It excludes thestatic, monumental ‘Stabiles’, which feature in many public squares,and the vibrant gouaches. The focus is determinedly on work thatinteracts with the viewer: a substantial selection of Calder’s 200 mo-biles, and the wire sculptures that led up to them.

Calder was born – in Pennsylvania – into a lineage of sculp-tors, but delayed following in his father’s and grandfather’s foot-steps, training as a mechanical engineer before having somethingof an epiphany off Guatemala on a naval voyage in 19 22: the sightof the sun rising and moon setting simultaneously on oppositesides of the ship started him painting, and he enrolled in art col-lege in New York. That awakening stayed with him. The basis ofhis work was ‘the system of the Universe’, he said: ‘the idea of de-tached bodies floating in space… some at rest, while others movein peculiar manners, seems to me the ideal source of form.’

Calder’s second source of fascination, arising from a journalis-tic sketching assignment in 19 25, was the spectacle and choreo-graphy of the circus. He re-enacted its sequences through the 70models of Cirque Calder (19 26 -31 ), which he housed in a suitcase tofacilitate travelling performances. Calder had already begun, as hetermed it, ‘drawing in space’, making wire sculptures of animals:

Cirque Calder combines this technique with mixed media, whileseparate, larger works employ just wire. The Brass F amily (19 29 ) istypical of the latter, both for wittily exploring the analogies be-tween the balance of acrobats and the balance of sculptural weight,and for an erotic edge which led Calder to describe himself as‘more “Sewer-realist” than Surrealist’.

Those two inspirations meshed with the influence of the artistshe met in 19 20s Paris – Miró and Arp played a part, and Duchampproposed the term ‘mobile’ – but it was a visit to Mondrian’s studioin 19 30 that induced Calder to turn towards abstraction. There is along tradition of sculpture in movement – in religious processionsfor a start – but Calder was the first to make sculptures perform bythemselves. The restless mutability of his mobile works might standfor the experimental approach driving his art as a whole, which var-ies immensely across an oeuvre of more than 16 ,000. The most cel-ebrated mobiles are delicate metal structures suspended from theceiling, painted in primary colours and designed to move gentlywith the airflow like clouds drifting by (the curators have takenpains to ensure that visitor movements will be sufficient to createthe right degree of draught). Others are fixed to the wall or mount-ed on bases – such as Red and Yellow Vane (19 34). Tate’s show, then,is a chance to assess afresh the variety of spatial and kinetic effectsCalder achieves through his universal circus of orchestrated move-ment, over and around us. ALE X ANDER CALDER : PERFORMING SCULPTURE runs 11 Nov-3 April, Mon-Thurs, Sun 1 0-6 , Fri, Sat1 0-1 0 $ PAUL

CAREY-KENT is an art writer and curator based in Southampton r

Opposite: Th e B rass F a m i ly , 1929, brass wire and painted wood. This page, top left: Alexander Calder with his

sculpture 21 F e u i ll es Bl an ch es in Paris in 1953. Top right: R e d an d Y e llow V ane , 1934, sheet metal, rod, wire, lead and paint

19

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Top: Waiting f o r t h e S ul tan , 1891, watercolour on paper. Above: Dan c ers at t h e M oul in Rou ge , 1889, watercolour on paper

A r thur M el ville SCOTTISH NATIONAL GALLERY T he Mo u nd , E d inb ur gh

W here would Arthur Melville have been without Amanda M.?W hoever this siren was that stole his heart on the veranda of Shepheard’s Hotel in Cairo in 1881, she turned him down, and be-came the making of him. The young Scottish painter was in Egypt in search of romance, but got both less and more than he had ex-

pected. Rejected and tearful, he fled Cairo, made his way via Aden to Karachi and northern India, to Muscat in Oman, up the Persian Gulf to Baghdad, joined an Arab caravan across the desert to the Black Sea and boarded a steamer to Constantinople. En route he was chased by bandits, shot at, and imprisoned for alleged spying in Kurdistan. Painting as he went, he also assembled a significant body of work, and fashioned a legend as a swaggering Victorian adventurer, the outdoor type whose world was his oyster, a ‘glorious Empire boy’.

It was partly true, but also an illusion. His background was humbler than most entitled Boy’s Own heroes, his talents more subtle, his experience more genuinely cosmopoli-tan. E ven if we accept that Orientalism was not just imperialist exploitation and allowed for real interest and empathy, he was no stand-ard practitioner, eschewing stereotypical har-ems and odalisques for street scenes, markets and encounters with authority figures, pashas and sultans. Always difficult to pin down, he could bring the rustic naturalism he had seen while studying in Paris to bear on the East, even transposing Millet’s iconic image of the sower to an Egyptian oasis; yet he could also achieve

effects that were as apparently abstract as they were actually pre-cise, founded on brilliant colour and perfectly judged marks with the brush. His style needed heat and sun, and he made many trips to Spain. It was there he died of typhus, aged only 49, having added the shores of the Mediterranean to his vivid repertory.

The exhibition in Edinburgh makes a considered argument for his relatively neglected oil paintings, but few will deny that watercolour was his real element, dropped on paper already saturated with white gouache, then worked wet-on-wet, blotted

and spotted with dots of jewel-like intensity – sometimes tested on sheets of glass laid over the painted surface. Colours were blended, superfluous details sponged out. He was a master of movement, whether depicting a slow-moving crowd, a bullfight or a single dancer at a Parisian café-concert , her twirling skirts catching a blaze of gaslight.

In his work colour is often a subject in itself, in the empty foregrounds of his Eastern scenes, bleached white in the sun, or the blues – pale sapphire to deepest indigo – of the Tangier sky, a Spanish harbour or Venetian night. Melville’s impact on and place within the 1880s Scottish Colour ists has been contentious, but he is with-out question a unique exponent of his medi-um. ARTHUR MELVILLE : ADVENTURES IN COLOUR runs until 17 Jan, Mon- W ed, Fri-Sun 10-5, Thurs 10-7 $ D A VID B LAYNEY B R OW N is co-curator of‘Artist and Empire’ at Tate Britain, London SW1 25 Nov-10 April

EXHIBITION diary

T O P :

N A T I O N A L G A L L E R I E S O F S C O T L A N D

, D R J O H N K I R K H O P E B E Q U E S T 1 9 2 0

. P H O T O :

A N T O N I O

R E E V E

. B O T T O M :

N A T I O N A L G

A L L E R I E S O F S C O T L A N D

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EXHIBITION diary

1 A call to arms –

Haidee Becker, Oc t o p u ses in an Ov a l

Dis h , at Patrick

Bourne. 2 The ruff and the smooth –

Hendrik Goltzius,

Se l f -Po rtrait Hold ing

a Co pper -Pl ate , c1589, at the British

Museum. 3 Tight

spot – George

Stubbs, A Ch eeta h

an d Stag w it h Two

I n d ian A tten d ants , 1765, at Tate Britain.

4 Stitches in time

– Amish quilt,

late 19th century,

at White Cube. 5 Throwaway culture

– Moffat Takadiwa, Fo reignness S m e ll ,

2015, at Tyburn. 6 Trunk call –

Stephane Graff, T ree

I nter v enti o n I , 2009,

at Crane Kalman. 7 Packet punch –

Conor Rogers, You

get m e dow n , 2014, at the ICA

1

2

3

4 5

6

7

LONDON

AMBI K A P3 MARYLEBONE RD, NW1 U ntil 6 Dec. Tues-F ri 11-7, Sat, Sun 12-6. Film and video works byBelgian auteur Chantal Akerman.BRITISH MUSEUM GREAT RUSSELL ST, WC1 U ntil 6 Dec. Mon-Thurs, Sat, Sun 10-5.30, F ri 10-8.30. Un-missable show of metalpoint drawings.CRANE K ALMAN BROMPTON RD, SW3 12 Nov-16 Jan. Mon-F ri 10-6, Sat 10-4. An arboretum of art de-picting trees, with Corot, Sutherland and TonyBevan among those branching out.DANIEL K AT Z HILL ST, W1 U ntil 18 Dec. Mon-F ri 9-6. A very posh private collection of importantpaintings (by Cranach, Beccafumi, Turner,Cézanne) assembled over 30 years.DANIELLE ARNAUD KENNINGTON RD, SE11 6 Nov-13 Dec. F ri-Sun 2-6. Sarah Woodfine’s gothicpencil drawings often creep off the page intothree dimensions – mating with found ob- jects, snaking around scrolls of paper.DRAF SYMES MEWS, NW1 U ntil 12 Dec. Thurs-Sat 12-6. Works about facelessness, cover-ups and dis-appearances are installed in a disconcertingenvironment of curtains and screens.ESTORIC K COLLECTION CANONBURY SQUARE, N1 U ntil 20 Dec. Wed-Sat 11-6, Sun 12-5. Research on theFuturist masterpieces here has revealed a viewof Düsseldorf beneath Balla’sHand of the Vio-lin ist . Plus, Piero Pizzi Cannella’s paintings ofsingle ornate objects – a dress, a necklace, achandelier – suspended in dark space.FRITH STREET GALLERY FRITH ST, W1 U ntil 18 Dec. Wed-F ri 10-6, Sat 11-5. The sense of place is thesubject of a two-hander featuring the soot-and-spit landscapes of Idaho outsider James

Castle (1899-1977) and John Riddy’s photo-graphs of South Africa’s Cape Peninsula.J ONATHAN CLAR K PARK WALK, SW10 5-27 Nov. Mon-F ri 10-6.30, Sat 10-2. Dynamic works of the 1950sand 60s by St Ives artist Bryan Wynter.K ALLOS GALLERY DAVIES ST, W1 U ntil 18 Dec. Mon-F ri 10.30-5.30. Ancient Greek gold jewellery.ICA THE MALL, SW1 25 Nov-25 Jan. Tues, Wed, F ri-Sun 11-6, Thurs 11-9. Making and materialitywere the selectors’ maxims for this year’sBloomberg New Contemporaries. Look outfor Conor Rogers’s tiny photorealist paint-ings on cigarette packets and beer mats.MALLETT DOVER ST, W1 12-24 Nov. Mon-F ri 10-6. Ultra-fine, exquisitely painted ceramic ren-

derings of botanical subjects – bowls of fruitand blown flowers you can almost smell,purple-tinged cabbages and baby artichokes– from the hand of New Yorker Clare Potter.MICHAEL DIEMAR 5 WILLOUGHBY ST,

WC1 11 Nov-8 Dec. Tues-Sat 11-6. Photography dealer/collec-tor Diemar pops up here topresent Magnus Arrevad’sblack-and-white shots ofmale performers inspir-ed by Kirchner’s Berlinstreet scenes.

MICHAEL W ERNER UPPER BROOK ST, W1 U ntil 5 Dec. Tues-Sat 10-6. Fragmented or distorted repre-sentations of the human figure.ORDOVAS SAVILE ROW, W1 U ntil 12 Dec. Tues-F ri 10-6, Sat 11-3. The gallery fishes out the finestart on the theme of the sea, including a frag-ment of a Roman sarcophagus carved withwater deities, menacing Courbet waves andone of two surviving seascapes by Bacon.PARASOL UNIT WHARF RD, N1 U ntil 6 Dec. Tues-Sat

10-6, Sun 12-5. Luc Tuymans selects abstractart by fellow Belgians.Plus, Charles Avery’scast-bronze tree bears fluorescent fruit forthe gallery’s ‘Winter Light’ commission.PATRIC K BOURNE & CO ST JAMES’S PLACE, SW1 10-24 Nov. Ring 020 3696 5285 for appointment. HaideeBecker’s new still-life oils: flowers and vivid,almost palpably slippery fish.PIANO NOBILE PORTLAND RD, W11 U ntil 8 Dec. Mon-F ri 10-6, Sat 11-4. Strange, intense, stippled paint-ings by John Armstrong, a member of theshort-lived Unit One group.SPRUETH MAGERS GRAFTON ST, W1 U ntil 19 Dec. Tues-Sat 10-6. Thomas Demand’s large-scale pho-tographs emphasising the sculptural, for-mal qualities of architectural models, shownagainst brown paper hung by the artist.STUDIO VOLTAIRE NELSONS ROW, SW4 U ntil 6 Dec. Wed-Sun 12-6. Caracas-born artist Sol Calerohas transformed this former mission hall andSunday school with a kaleidoscopic installa-tion of murals, customised school furnitureand changeable blackboard paintings.TATE BRITAIN MILLBANK, SW1 U ntil 13 March. Mon-Sun 10-6. Impossible not to feel the great weight

of labour behind Frank Auerbach’s paintings;working year-round, he scrapes back the sur-face every day to start over and over again. 25 Nov-10 April, artistic encounters with Britain’sempire, then and now.THOMAS DANE DUKE ST, ST JAMES’S, SW1 19 Nov-1 Jan. Tues-F ri 11-6, Sat 12-6. Known for her photo-graphic studies of overlooked details in Mod-ernist buildings – the play of light through ablind, for instance – Luisa Lambri has createdsimilarly elegant near-abstract works fromclose-ups of Judd and Hepworth sculptures.Plus, a group show about the relationship be-tween photography and architecture, start-ing with Nicéphore Niépce’s 1826 imageView

from the

Window

at

Le

Gras.TYBURN GALLERY BARRETT ST, W1 5 Nov-9 Jan.

Tues-F ri 10-6, Sat 10-5. Moffat Takadiwa’s wall-mounted sculptures made from bottle-tops,computer keys and other detritus.W HITE CUBE MASON’S YARD, SW1 U ntil 9 Jan. Tues-

Sat 10-6. Political and subversive usesof textiles, in a show that

interweaves Amish andGee’s Bend quilts withwork by Alighiero Bo-etti, Mona Hatoum and

Mike Kelley.

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PEOPLE FROM EVERY NATION CAN BE FOUND IN LONDON, THE WORLD’S MOST CULTURALLY DIVERSE CITY. HERE, IN A THREE-YEAR PRO-

JECT, CHRIS STEELE-PERKINS IS MAKING PORTRAITS OF MIGRANT FAMILIES – FROM ESTONIA TO ECUADOR – IN THEIR OWN LIVING ROOMS

ARMCHAIR TRA V ELLERS

It is amazing to think that not so long ago, in London, one could find signs informing possible tenants: ‘No Blacks, No Irish, No Dogs…’ In a mere half-century the capital has become the most culturally diverse metropolis on the planet. Indeed the whole world

is in London, living here, working here, being here. Instead of a ‘swarm’ of migrants triggering social collapse and rivers of blood, the city moves from strength to strength. Of course there are prob-lems, frictions, but when in the warp of history has that not been so?

How, as a photographer, to address these changes? The tradi-tional way is to investigate one of these new dimensions in depth: African churches, say, or Lebanese restaurants. But I wanted to document the scale of this diversity, so I decided to photograph people that have come here from every country in the world. Specifically, families in their homes because they signify, if not necessarily permanence, certainly a more engaged presence than a tourist passing through. It also makes the work exponentially more difficult. Why on earth would anyone let a stranger with a camera come in and disrupt their inner sanctum?

But they do, once they’ve got the message. I am using the UN list of 193 member states as my basis, and adding some like Tibet as I go along. But first I have to find the families. The internet is essential to my work – most countries have websites for the com-munity in the UK, if not in London. Countries have restaurants; they have cultural groups, community centres and Facebook pages. Flyers in libraries and adverts in local newspapers – the old ana-logue world – can often be rewarding. The Peckham Peculiar was particularly fruitful. Then there are friends and friends of friends – the reach extends rapidly. I have given myself three years to complete the project and am now almost halfway through.

Waiting for the doorbell to be answered with my assistant is a bit like going on stage… nervous tension. What will they be like?

Ditto the apartment or house. Pets? Sometimes I am met by baf-fled husbands, asking: ‘So, what’s this for then?’, their wives or daughters insisting they have been told many times. I wander about scanning the room, looking at the faces, checking the light,

weighing up how the kids will behave, accepting or declining cups of tea. Sometimes there are just two of them – a couple, or a mother (usually) and child – and sometimes there are 15 people crammed into a small room. Aunts, cousins, nephews, grannies, dogs, boyfriends, busy taking and posting camera-phone photos as they tell each other to settle down. Once I’ve finished, I con-duct a short interview to accompany the portrait and later send the family a few digital files and a signed print.

I love the randomness of this work. Thursday, 5pm: the Leetmaa family – a sturdy group of women from Estonia who run a UK-based Russian-language magazine. Friday, 6pm: Melanie and Jamie Yurt, from Malaysia and Turkey respectively, with their daughter Liala. Sunday, 12 noon: the Obradovices – a Serbian electrical engineer, his nurse wife and their two musical sons. Later, while editing, I flash past Joe, the Nigerian who addressed me as Sir; and Natalia from Ecuador who wanted a guitar to be visible in the frame to symbolise her late husband.

It may be hubris, but I want these photographs to last, and in order to do that they must be something more than just a group of anonymous people smiling. Each session is a piece of theatre, and I try to develop a tableau where light, geometry, expression and posture are choreographed in a space particular to my sub- jects. Yet sometimes when they take a break they relax, and that may be when the situation comes together for the perfect shot as their own natural chemistry takes over $ To see Chris’s work, visit chrissteeleperkins.com. If you live in Londonwould like to be involved, email [email protected]

J O U RNAL O F A PHOTO G RAPHER

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