the saveur 100 cooks edition.pdf

8/9/2019 The Saveur 100 cooks edition.pdf

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sue171splay u ntil Feb . 16, 2 015

SA

… STA

THESE INSA

SHORT RIBS P

LEMON

RADISHES AN

WITH CO

BIG ID

TIPS, T& RE

INSPIUS IN KITC

R


2/92

WWW.SKUNASALMON.COM

STEVE MUNRO,CRAFTSMAN SALMON FARMER

Watchful. Vigilant. Maybe a bit over-protective.

14 years of raising salmon in its natural, ocean environment has taught Steve that danger

can come from anywhere: ferocious storms, changing tides, hungry predators.

Being alert lets his fish thrive. And that’s why you can expect the salmon he sends you Chef,

to be amazing. He wants you to know it’s on its way.


3/92

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SO A GREAT CHEF AND ACRAFTSMAN FARMER WALK INTO A BA

(OK, IT’S ACTUALLY A HOUSE)…

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Anne Kearney Rue Dumaine, Dayton, OH

ON FEBRUARY 25TH, 2015, THE

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4/92

Welcome to the 100. We’ve been busy around here

gearing up for this issue, testing products and

tinkering with recipes. We’ve cooked with friends and

sorted through trends. We’ve wandered widely,

ordering every dish on the menu. We’ve cleaned our

plates and taken notes. To see whom and what we’ve

rounded up for our annual guide to the inventive chefs,

oddball ingredients, and ingenious tips that are

making us happy and hungry cooks,

turn to page 13.

THE S VEUR

100

Cooks’Edition


5/92

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6/92

Enrique Olvera in his

kitchen at NYC’s Cosme.

For his mussels tostada

recipe, turn to page 62.

Send all editorial quescomments, and sugge

to 15 East 32nd Stre

New York, NY 100

You may also reach our

department via fax

212/219-7420, or e-m

at [email protected]

For reprints, e-ma

reprints@bonniercorp

32

ROOT TO STALK

COOKINGTaking a page from the nose-to-tail movement, chefs likeApril Bloomfield are apply-ing the same use-everythingapproach to their carrots,radishes, and cauliflower.

42

COPENHAGEN

TO THE EASTThe famed restaurantNoma has up and moved toTokyo—for a month. RenéRedzepi on the enduringinspiration of Japanese cui-sine and the importance oftaking risks far from home.

54

FATBACK

DAYSFor years, Atlanta chef KevinGillespie struggled to figureout his role in the Southernfood revival. He found theanswer in a bowl of Granny’sbean soup.

90

A MEAL TO

REMEMBERFrancis Mallmann takesoutdoor cooking beyond thebackyard. An open-fire feastthat lasts all day.


7/92

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8

s a v e u r . c o m

Appetizers & Side DishesRoasted Carrots with Carrot-Top Pestoand Burrata 32Celery Stewed in Olive Oil (CéleriBarigoule) 37Thai Green Papaya Salad (Som Tum) 73Broccoli Rabe and Italian Sausage FriedRavioli 80Crêpes Filled with Sauerkraut 80Endive Salad with Bee Pollen

Vinaigrette 80Fava Bean, Herb, and PomegranateFattoush 81Quinoa–Whole Wheat Bread withRaisins 82Roasted Parsnip Salad withHazelnuts, Blue Cheese, and WheatBeer Vinaigrette 83Stir-Fried Celtuce Tops with Mushrooms(Xianggu Chao Wosun Ye) 84Tofu, Long Bean, and Crispy ShallotSalad with Black Bean Vinaigrette 85

Waldorf-Style Brussels Sprout Saladwith Guanciale 85

Meat & PoultryJustin Smillie’s Peppercorn-CrustedShort Ribs with Lemon, Olives, andRadishes 14Braised Zabuton with Coffee Beans 22Crispy Pork Belly with Persimmons 46Pear-Marinated Roast Leg of Lamb 82

Roast Duck with Plums 83

Seafood & VegetarianSmoked Haddock and Cheddar Mash 27Cracked-Wheat Porridge with Hen ofthe Woods Mushrooms and Turnip-TopSalsa 43Mussels Tostada with Russian Saladand Chipotle Mayonnaise 62Gooseneck Barnacles with Lemon 63Braised Sea Bass with Burdock 65Thai Boat Noodle Soup

(Kuaytiaw Reua) 77Mock Eel 81Open-Faced Lasagna with AcornSquash and Smoked Caciocavallo 81Peel-and-Eat Shrimp with Spicy HerbButter 82

Drinks & DessertsThe Truffle Pig 18Kashmiri Saffron Tea 30

Spiced Percolator Punch 40Chocolate Puff Pastry 79Hiroko Shimbo’s Uguisu Mochi 79Swedish Cinnamon-and-Cardamom Bread (Vetebullar) 84Temple-Orange Tart 84

MiscellaneousColor Your Pasta with Juice 17Burnt-Bread Powder 28Smoked Yogurt with Miso 30Joshua McFadden’s Marinated

Radish Greens 35How to Fake French Sauces 48Roasted White Chocolate 5620-Second Mayo 59Cured Egg Yolks 68GGS (Garlic, Ginger, and Shallot)Keg Dreg Vinegar 68Spruce Salt 68Bonito Butter 69Burnt Citrus Salt 69Mushroom “Soy” Sauce 69Pickle Powder 72

Roasted with

cinnamon, a

plums, this su

duck is the kind

Teutonic cooki

been missin

“Rediscover G

Food” on pa

ON THE COVER

Justin Smillie’s Peppercorn-Crusted

Short Ribs with Lemon, Olives,

and Radishes (see page 14)

Photograph by Marcus Nilsson

TH

RECIPES


9/92

EatWisconsinCheese.com


10/92

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s a v e u r . c o m

SAVEUR ED I TOR-I N-CHI EF

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11/92

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s a v e u r . c o m

SAVEUR P U B L I S H E R

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12/92

DARK ORIGINS:

A SURPRISINGLY

FRIENDLY PAIRING

We talked with Jordan Felix, a bartender

and whisky pro from Portland, OR.

ADVERTISEMENT

How have you seen craft beer pairings become

more popular among Scotch whisky lovers?

With more craft breweries giving such a variety

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13/92

13

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Ever look at an air compressor and think:

Maybe I could use this to blast-dry a duck for the crispiest-skinned bird ever?

Curious about sustainable seafood or how to dye dried pasta by

boiling it in fresh vegetable juice? Want to find a new use for persimmons

and join the root-to-stalk movement? Congratulations—

you’re our kind of cook, and this issue’s for you.

I L L U S T R A T I O N : L A U R E N T A M A K I


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C o o k t h e c o v e r . . .

“I was going for a mix of pastrami and churrasco styles,”Justin Smillie says. And you nod, but, honestly, you’re prettydistracted by the peppercorn-encrusted, ludicrously juicy shortribs in question and don’t immediately appreciate quite how bold that Jewish deli/Latin grill mash-up really is. The chefat swank new restaurant Upland in Manhattan and author ofthe forthcoming Slow Fires (Clarkson Potter, November 2015),Smillie is rightly famous for his way with this sinewy andcomplex cut. “They’re the ultimate ex pression of beefiness,”he says, as you’re taking another bite and finding no reason todisagree. Here he offsets that dark intensity with the acidity oflemon and the peppery radiance of radishes for a balanced—and beautiful—dish we’d be happy to eat every day this year.

BRINE, RUB, STEAM-ROAST,AND SEAR THE WORLD’S

GREATEST SHORT RIBS

JUSTIN

SMILLIE’S

PEPPERCORN-

CRUSTED

SHORT RIBS

WITH LEMON

OLIVES AND

RADISHES

serves 10–12

These short ribs arebrined, steam-roasted,and then seared, makingthe meat succulent andturning the peppercornrub into a thick, spicy bark.

2 tbsp. plus 3 ⁄ 4 cup whole blackpeppercorns

2 tbsp. corianderseeds

2 tbsp. fennel seeds

2 1 ⁄ 2 cups olive oil

1 large red onion,halved

1 cup kosher salt1 ⁄ 4 cup sugar

3 fresh or dried bayleaves

2 lemons, preferablyMeyer (1 halved,1 thinly sliced)

10 bone-in beef shortribs

1 ⁄ 2 cup greenpeppercorns

2 tbsp. pinkpeppercorns

2 tbsp. whitepeppercorns

3–5 assortedradishes, such asBordeaux, Frenchbreakfast, lime, orwatermelon

1 ⁄ 2 cup pitted Gaetaor kalamata olives

1 ⁄ 4 cup minutina,mustard greens,or parsley leaves

3 tbsp. colatura(Italian anchovysauce)

3 tbsp. red winevinegar

Fennel buds(optional) andMaldon flake sea

salt, for garnish1 Heat a 12” skillet overmedium-high. Toast 2tbsp. black peppercorns,the coriander, and fen-nel until fragrant, 1–2minutes; transfer to alarge plastic container.Add 1 tbsp. oil to skillet

and cook onion, cut sidedown, until blackened,5–7 minutes; transfer toplastic container. Stir inkosher salt, sugar, bayleaves, halved lemon, a1 gallon water; add ribs,cover, and chill 48 hour

2 After 24 hours, toast

remaining black andgreen, pink, and whitepeppercorns in a 4-qt.saucepan over mediumhigh, 1–2 minutes. Add2 cups oil; simmer overmedium-low until pep-percorns are tender,40–45 minutes. Let coochill 24 hours.

3 After ribs have brinedfor 48 hours and peppecorns have chilled for 24hours, remove ribs frombrine and pat dry usingpaper towels. Strain peppercorns, reserving oil fanother use, if you like.

Using a mortar and pes-tle, grind peppercornsinto a wet, gravel-likeconsistency. Coat ribs inpeppercorn mixture andplace on a baking sheet

tted with a rack; chill,uncovered, for 12 hours

4 Heat oven to 350°.Allow ribs to come toroom temperature andtransfer to a roasting pacover pan tightly with aminum foil and roast forhours. Remove from oveand let ribs rest in pan fo1 hour; discard bones.

5 Increase oven to 400Working in 2 batches,heat 3 tbsp. oil in a 12”skillet over medium-high. Sear ribs, turningas needed, until peppercorn crust is browned,8–10 minutes. Mean-while, use a mandolineto thinly shave radishesplace radish slices in abowl of ice water and lesit 30 minutes. Trans-fer ribs to a baking shee

tted with a rack; roastuntil crust has hard-ened, about 15 minutesLet ribs rest 10 minutes;cut crosswise into 2”

pieces and arrange on aserving platter. Drain raishes and sprinkle overribs with sliced lemon,olives, and minutina; drzle with remaining oil,the anchovy sauce, andvinegar. Garnish with fenel buds, if you like, and

ake sea salt.


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16/92

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MARC VETRI’S

OPEN-FACED

LASAGNA

I

n his upcoming book Mastering Pasta (en Speed Press, March2015), Philadelphia chef Marc Vetri shares a recipe for open-facedlasagna, a pizza–lasagna hybrid that he developed while messing

around in the kitchen of his eponymous restaurant. Tough this onecalls for acorn squash and smoked caciocavallo cheese (see page 81 forrecipe), there’s no limit to the toppings you can choose. “Te beauty ofthis dish is that the pasta acts like a blank canvas, allowing you toshowcase any seasonal ingredient,” says Vetri. If you use homemadepasta dough, as he suggests, be sure to roll it out until it’s very thin.

SAN FEREOLOVALDIBÁ

DOLCETTO DIDOGLIANI 2012

“Perfect to match

the sweetness of the

squash while nudg-

ing the smokiness of

the caciocavallo and

accentuating that hint

of thyme.” —Steve

Wildy, beverage

director, Vetri

2

THE PASTA PAGES


17/92

1 2 3

See page 80 for the full Broccoli Rabe and Italian Sausage Fried Ravioli recipe.

r Pa st a

e

3

USE PASTA AS DOUGHYou hereby have permission to overcook your pasta. ChefDavide Scabin of Combal.Zero in Rivoli, Italy, and New YorkCity’s Mulino a Vino cooks his pasta well past a chewy al denthen purées it and turns it back into dough. He uses it for dishlike giant stuffed ravioli (lef t); macaroni souffl é, in which thpurée subs for the flour and butter; and fried bomboloni.

4

Cook pasta until mushy. Let

cool; drain. Add salt and purée in

a food processor or mix by hand

until it forms a sticky dough.

Divide dough in half; flatten

between sheets of greased

parchment paper and chill.

Roll dough until 1 ⁄ 6” thick.

Cut out circles with

cutter. Place 1 slice m

and 2 tbsp. filling over

fold in half and pinc

talian chefs like to cook their pasta in vegetable extracts, an ingenious ri

on the centuries-old technique of boiling pasta in wine. At Vun in Milan, Andrea Aprea uses red cabbage juice to give spaghettoni a glorious purple hue.

Chef Niko Romito of Abruzzo’s Ristorante Reale juices ame-charred leeks forcooking spaghettini that he tosses with pancetta and parmesan. To do it yourself, start with 11 ⁄ 2 cups of fresh vegetable juice (stop by your local juice bar if you don’t have a juicerat home). Boil 1 cup of the juice in a large skillet. In the meantime, cook plain dry pastain boiling water for 2 minutes. Strain the pasta, and transfer it to the skillet with boiling juice to nish cooking. Add more juice, a little at a time, until the pasta is al dente.

Almost any ve juice—beet, ceven zucchinsaturate past

color and infussweet-savory

R I GATONI R EPURPO SED


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Recently some unexpected vegetables—ramps, butternut squash, and beets—havestarted showing up in creative cocktails. Now, mushrooms are getting in on thefun(gus) at high-profile spots like London’s Artesian and San Francisco’s DirtyHabit. At Dallas farm-to-table restaurant FT33, The Truffle Pig (pictured) featuresa refreshing mix of tequila, lemon juice, and muddled mushrooms sweetened withrosemary-cinnamon honey. Topping it off is a seared hen of the woods mushroom.

MAKE A MUSHROOM COCKTAIL

T H E

T R U F F L P I G

Bring 1 ⁄ 2 cup each honey and water

2 rosemary sprigs, and 1 cinnamon st

to a boil in a 1-qt. saucepan; let syrup c

and strain. Brown 2 oz. hen of the

woods mushrooms in a dry skillet; let c

Mix 1 tsp. each ground cinnamon an

sugar and 1 ⁄ 4 tsp. salt on a plate;

rim glass with a lemon wedge and di

in sugar mixture. Muddle all but 1 o

the mushrooms with 1 oz. each syru

and lemon juice in a shaker. Add 2

oz. añejo tequila and ice. Shake andstrain into glass; garnish with remain

ing mushroom. Makes 1 cocktail.

5


19/92

S NA C K L I K E A S W E D

E

ik m

“to dr

coffee

Swedi

But it’s mo just that. Imoment to

break, chafriends, anpastry—a worth emuAnd one thcharminglyin Anna BrJohanna Kupcoming Fika: The ASwedish CoBreak (TenPress, AprGet a fikas

(a fika cravproper Swcoffee snathis cinnamcardamom


20/92

20

s a v e u r . c o m

Crack is, indeed, wack. But Black Crack?

Well, that’s something we can support.

Garlic that’s been aged a nd fermented into

mellow, sweet-sour, coal black nuggets,

Obis One’s Black Crack might just be

poised to join salt and pepper as a ubiq-

uitous tableside seasoning. It’s ready to

be ground over all kinds of things: salads,

seared steaks, a nywhere you want a hit

of tangy, tama rind-like notes. Employ it

as a pizza topping, or purée it into a sauce.

At his Philadelphia restaurant Volvér,

Jose Garces uses it to create a flavorful

crust for thyme-glazed bread, which he

serves with smoked butter. But even if you

simply try it on a fried egg in the morn-

ing, you’ll find it’s everythi ng it’s cracked

up to be. ($25 for 2 oz.; obisone.com)

Get Homeschooled The best way to learn someone’s nativecuisine is to step into his or her kitchen. And several cross-cultural cookingorganizations let you do just that. The New York-based League o Kitchens(leagueof itchens.com) invites small groups o curious cooks into the homeso women rom all over the world or socially immersive classes in cuisines

ranging rom Lebanese to Bengali. In Buenos Aires, a couple welcomesstudents into their kitchen to learn how to make empanadas and Argentin-ian pastries at their Tierra Negra cooking school (tierranegragourmet.com). And while its classes are taught in a community center, Seattle’s ProjectFeast (projecteast.org) lets you work alongside reugees rom countries suchas Iraq and Burma, learning how to cook what they cook at home.

ADDICTIVE

CONDIMENT:

BLACK

CRACK

8


21/92

Eamon Rockey ofBetony restaurant in

New York City.

SOUS VIDE SPIRITS

You’re hankering after gin;

there’s only vodka in the

house. What to do? Eamon

Rockey, general managerand resident cocktail tinkerer

at Betony in Manhattan,

has the answer: Nomiku,

an immersion sous vide

machine ($303; amazon

.com). Most people use

the device to slow-cook

vacuum-packed proteins,

but Rockey had the idea to

try it with booze. He pours

vodka into a bag, loads it

with aromatics—pepper,

fennel seeds, star anise,

coriander, maybe some

lavender or bay leaf, and, of

course, juniper—and drops

it sealed into a Nomiku bathset at 176 degrees. Ninety

seconds and a short, cold

plunge later, and the bag

no longer contains vodka,

folks; it’s filled with gin.

M E L A N I E D U N E A

9


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TRY A TENDER CUTYOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF

10

The small flap of meat between the chuck and the rib eye in Wagyu is calledthe zabuton, meaning “cushion” in Japanese. Nicely marbled with intramus-

cular fat, the little-known cut—sometimes dubbed a Denver steak—is butteryand rich. Try it in this satisfying, spicy braise with coffee beans, star anise, jalapeños, and cilantro, from Oliver Ridgeway of Grange Restaurant & Bar,

in Sacramento, California. ($94 for 3 lb.; debragga.com)

BR ISED Z BUT

WITH COFFEE B

serves 10–12

3 tbsp. olive oil

6 1-lb. pieces zabutboneless chuck flroom temperatur

1 ⁄ 4 cup Cajun season

3 stalks celery, rougchopped

1 carrot, roughly ch

1 small yellow onioroughly chopped

2 cups dry red wine

1 cup tomato paste

4 cups chicken stoc1 ⁄ 2 cup whole coffee

1 tsp. whole blackpeppercorns

3 bay leaves

2 star anise

Zest of 3 orangesvegetable peeler)

3 shallots, thinly sli3 ⁄ 4 cup champagne v1

⁄ 4 cup granulated su 1 tbsp. kosher salt

1 cup cilantro leave

6 red radishes, thin

2 jalapeños, thinly s

2 red Fresno chiles,and thinly sliced

1 Heat oven to 300°. Heoil in an 8-qt. saucepan medium-high. Rub beef Cajun seasoning. Workibatches, cook beef, turnneeded, until browned, 1minutes. Transfer beef tplate; set aside. Add celcarrot, and onion to panuntil golden, 10–12 minuin wine and tomato past5 minutes. Add reservedand the stock; boil. Reduto medium; add coffee bpeppercorns, bay leavesanise, and orange zest. Cand bake until beef is veder, 21 ⁄ 2–3 hours. Transfto a cutting board; keep Simmer sauce, skimminneeded, until thickened,40 minutes; strain.

2 Place shallots in a bowvinegar, sugar, salt, andwater in a 2-qt. saucepaover shallots and let cooroom temperature. Chill

1 hour before serving.

3 Slice beef crosswise ab1 ⁄ 4” thick and transfer toing platter; drizzle aboutsauce over the top and sremaining sauce on the Drain shallots and sprinbeef with cilantro, radish

jalapeños, and Fresnos.


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ood cooking, like good living, involves alittle risk.

Sure, we must learn how to control theheat, and cut with some sort of precision. But

once that’s down, it’s time to start bending therules, selectively. Te best cooks I know let out

their own reins and cook intuitively. Tey irt with the dark, the crusty, the nearly-too-far-gone.

Most of my favorite dishes teeter on the brink of burnt. Ilove, for example, when the mahogany edges of a pan-friedsteak leave an imprint on the pan, or the seared scallop wears

an espresso-colored crown, or when that bit of chopped garlicshrinks in the sizzling oil like a goldstar about to burn out, its avor fullyexhaled into the oil. Tis point ofdoneness is better known as the peakof perfection, but let’s call it what itreally is: the edge of ruin.

My mom intuitively knew aboutcooking on the brink. She watched thebottoms of pots like a hawk watchesa forest oor. I remember her aimingher spoon at the prized brown bits leftafter frying pork chops or chicken.Tese she dubbed the “schnibbles.”

As in: “See how the chicken skinsticks to the bottom of this heavy pan?Tat’s good schnibbles.” From thesetiny, salty meteors left behind, she built her luscious gravy. Shetaught me that if you were going to go from “sauté to sauce,” youhad to use a metal pan—and not eon, but something with asemi-stick bottom. A generation back, her mother, GrandmaDion, had another word—“schmutz”—for the prized bits she’dshuttle to one side of the pan with a bent spatula, as if cullingprecious stones from a rubbly iron creek bed. As in: “Burn theschmutz and it’s all downhill!”

Tis was conrmed when I hit professional kitchens, wheremy tutelage down in the pan hollows continued. At David

Bouley’s Danube, my rst line-cooking gig in Manhattan, fel-low cooks taught me how to properly add the tomato paste,common to the goulashy braises of the place: “No, no, no,you don’t just add it to the caramelized veg and deglaze. Youhave to cook it until it lays down a copper lm on the bottomof the pan. Until it clings.” Sure enough, a few minutes afterI added a lump of tomato paste, it obediently left a bright,

fake-tan-like patina on the bottom of the pan. Only then wasI to add the sweet and hot paprika, stirring until the powdersoftly detonated—or “bloomed”—in the hot fat, and nally,the deglazing liquid. I learned that 10 minutes of careful atten-tion paid to the pan bottom created about 90 percent of theavor of the nished goulash.

We called this avor base the “fond,” a corruption of theFrench fondation, but we were wrong: Fond refers to the liquidfrom deglazing. Te French slang for schnibbles is sucs, derivedfrom the Latin for sugar—or, basically, the “sap of the meat.” And the link to sugar here is key: Even in savory foods, chefs

are always working to bring the natural sugars present in thevegetable, the protein, or the shell-sh up to the surface. Tis is why we roast Brussels sprouts, and grillshrimp, and pan-fry pork chops… .

A few years after Danube, Icooked at an upscale Chinese place where the wok line was jet-red.Te woks got so hot that when thecut ingredients hit the bottom, theyskittered around as if alive. Tecooks kept everything constantlymoving; anything standing in onespot would have darkened immedi-ately. At the end they added a littleliquid, and the entire dish, ippingin the air in waves, was imbued

with what cookbook author Grace Young calls “the ery breathof the wok.” Tere were no visible schnibbles in this Chinesekitchen, but high heat, a thin lm of pure bottom avor, andthe cook’s courage made for unmistakable pan schmutz.

Tat crusty bottom, I came to believe, is where the soul ofthe dish resides, in any cuisine. Te deeper I delved into thedetails of cooking—cooking on the line in ne dining restau-rants, developing my own style, writing a cookbook—the moreI realized that my most successful recipes led me right back tothe schnibble-lled pans of my childhood.

About those names: Schmutz? Schnibbles? Such an impor-tant part of the craft, and that’s all the cooking vernaculargives us? Ten again, why not? Maybe it’s ne, even appro-priate, to nickname your crusty bits. It’s a personal place, thatbottom of the pan. Amy Thielen is a recover ing professional cook, a TV host, and the James Beard

Award–winning author of he New Midwestern able.

IN PRAISE OF SCHMUTZ& SCHNIBBLES

On the importance of the dark and sticky bits at the bottom of the pan

B Y A M Y T H I E L E N

G

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No. 11


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Amuse your bouche.Fall in love with our rich and creamy Rougette Bavarian Red.

champignon-usa.com


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From meatyoctopus to sweetpiquillo peppers,

haute cannedfood is hot.

SHAKE YOURBUTTER MAKER

Homemade butter is one ofthe most delectable waysto savor the grassy, sweet

avors of fresh cream. Andyou don’t need to crank a

wooden churn to do it. Asimple new tool, Chef’nButtercup Butter Maker ($15; chefn.com), shavesthe time to a few minutes.Just add room temperatureheavy cream to the buttermaker and shake vigorouslyfor about 3 minutes, untilpale yellow curds separatefrom the liquid. Use thebuilt-in sieve to strain offthe buttermilk, and rinsethe curds with cold waterbefore they settle into theattached ramekin. Now foldin flaky sea salt, herbs, orwhatever else you’re into.

Better Poultry through Blow-drying e key to super crispy skin is to dry your bird completely before roasting. Paper towels just won’t

cut it. Chris Shepherd, chef-owner of Underbelly in Houston, discovered that a local Chineserestaurant was using an air compressor to dry Peking duck, and he adopted the trick himself. Insert

the nozzle between the skin and meat of the bird and dry for about 30 seconds. Don’t have an aircompressor? Stop at a gas station for a hit of compressed air on the way home from Whole Foods.

YES, WE CAN

The availability of top-quality Spanishconservas (preserved foods) is changingthe way we think about canned ingredi-ents. Restaurants like Donostia in NewYork City and Aatxe in San Franciscoare serving foods right from the tin—and you should, too. Make a meal out of anarray of upscale canned components:marinated white anchovies in olive oiland vinegar; piquillo peppers stuffed withshellfish; berberechos (cockles) in brine.(despanabrandfoods.com; tienda.com)

15

14

12

FREEZE TOFU . . . and other prep basics from tofu expert Andrea NguyenFor saucy dishes, slice and freeze the tofu. Before using, defrost

lightly press again for a strong, spongy texture.

For soups and simmered dishes, cut the tofu and blanch in hot w

Drain in a colander and then add to the pot.

For pan-frying, lay slices on a kitchen or paper towel for 15 minu

Blot before using.

For deep frying, soak cut pieces in hot salted water for

15 minutes to draw moisture away from the

outer layer. Drain on kitchen or paper

towels before frying.


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Enrage an Italian

EatCheese with Your Fish The haddock and cheddar mash at Dublin’s The Winding Stair restaura

represents the best of Ireland: sea, dairy, and spud. In most polite circles, theof fish and cheese has long been frowned upon. But, mi dispiace, Italia

friends—it’s time to reconsider this taboo pairing. The dish, as comforting aand a roaring hearth on a rainy Dublin day, is all the convincing we nee

16

SMOKED

H DDOCK ND

CHEDDAR MASH

serves 4

Smoked haddock is broiledwith luxurious aged-cheddar mashed potatoesin this recipe (picturedon this page) from restau-rant The Winding Stair inDublin, Ireland.

3 tbsp. unsaltedbutter

1 medium whiteonion, sliced 1 ⁄ 4”thick

1 1 ⁄ 2 lb. finnan haddie(cold-smokedhaddock), skinremoved

3 cups heavy cream

2 lb. russet potatoes,peeled and cut into1” pieces

Kosher salt andfreshly ground blackpepper, to taste

6 oz. aged cheddar,shredded

1 ⁄ 4 tsp. freshly gratednutmeg

Roughly choppedparsley, for garnish(optional)

1 Melt butter in a 12” skilletover medium. Cook onionuntil golden, about 18minutes. Transfer onion to abowl; set aside. Wipe skilletclean. Add haddock andcream; simmer 10 minutes.Transfer haddock to a plate;set aside. Simmer creamuntil reduced by two-thirds,about 15 minutes. Transferhalf the cream to a bowl;set aside. Stir reservedonions into cream in skillet;set aside.

2 Bring potatoes to a boilin a 4-qt. saucepan ofsalted water; reduce heatto medium and cook untiltender, about 15 min-utes. Drain potatoes andreturn to pan. Add reservedcream, the cheddar, nut-meg, salt, and pepper;coarsely mash.

3 Heat oven to broil.Spread potato mixture ina 9” x 13” baking dish orindividual ramekins. Addhaddock and spoon onionmixture over the top; broiluntil browned, 2–3 min-utes. Garnish with parsley,if you like.

R O M U L O Y A N E S


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BURNT-BREAD POWDERAdapted from the cookbook Bar Tartine (Chronicle Books, 2014): Slice 4 oz. bread,preferably yeast-risen with a hearty crust,about 1 ⁄ 4” thick. Using a grill or broiler, toastbread, turning as needed, until evenly burnt,4–6 minutes. Transfer bread to a baking sheetfitted with a rack; let sit overnight until com-pletely dried out. Chop bread into 1 ⁄ 2” pieces.Working in batches, grind into a powder usinga spice grinder. Makes about 1 ⁄ 3 cup.

Powders are all the rage in restaura nt kitchens right now. Theeasiest one we’ve come across is from Nick Balla and CortneyBurns of San Francisco’s Bar Tartine. They have enough breadkicking around to ex periment with for days (and weeks andmonths) and found this clever use for a morning mishap: Grillslices of crusty country-style bread until five-alarm black, andgrind them into a fine powder. The frag rant charcoal-like dustlends a nutty, smoky element to spice mixes and sauces, chicken,and roasted vegetables. Or do as we did, and mix it into ice cream.

urn Your Toast

(on purpose)

17


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29

s a v e u r . c o m

B U R N T

I C E C R

When mixed int

on lush vanill

burnt-bread po

a malty, chocol


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Marco Canora, the chef known for gutsy cooking aNYC’s Italian-inspired Hearth, is not the typical health fooguru groupie. But recently, Canora had a serious awakeninabout his diet when his doctor told him he had high cholesterol, gout, and prediabetes. Te news sent the chef to the pof Sally Fallon’s seminal wellness book Nourishing Tradition(Newrends, 1999), where he discovered the nutritiousnessbone broths—stocks simmered for an extremely long time extract the maximum amount of minerals, amino acids,collagen, and gelatin from bones. Canora credited these

comforting elixirs with helping to restore his health, and thyears later he opened a takeout window at Hearth called Br(“broth” in Italian), offering them as hot beverages withadd-ins like fresh grated turmeric. For those who can’t visitBrodo, he offers these tips on making bone broth at homecut the bones into small pieces so that they take up less spain the pot and you get the right ingredient-to-water ratio; make the broth with a mix of sustainably raised meat andbones (not factory farmed) for optimal avor and nutritionand (3) sprinkle a little apple cider vinegar on the bones beadding water to help pull out the minerals.

Make

BoneBroth

K A S H M

S A F F R O

T E A

Bring 3 cups w1 ⁄ 4 tsp. saffron t3 green cardampods, and 1 cinstick to a simmover medium-Cook until colo

tea is golden a2–3 minutes. D1 tbsp. sugar anthinly sliced blalmonds betweglasses; pour ttop. Serves 2–4

DRINK NON-

LEAF TEA

20

SMOKEYOUR YOGURT

To make smoked yogurt with

miso, line the bottom of aroasting pan with ice. Spread1 qt. plain full-fat yogurt in an8” x 8” baking dish; nestle dishinto ice. Place 1 ⁄ 2 cup fine-grainoak or hickory wood chips(the type used for a stovetopsmoker) in a small metal bowl.Using a blowtorch, light chips,stirring as needed, until all the

chips are charred; blow out

any embers that remain andnestle bowl into ice. Coverroasting pan with aluminumfoil; let sit 20 minutes. Dis-card wood chips and repeatsmoking process with another1 ⁄ 2 cup wood chips. Stir 1 tbsp.white miso, 1 ⁄ 2 tsp. fresh lemon

juice, salt, and pepper intoyogurt. Makes 1 quart.

C

ool, creamy yogurt gets more interesting in the hands of Hono-lulu chef Ed Kenney (Town restaurant), who smokes it overwood before mixing it with white miso. “You have to use whole-milk yogurt because the fat absorbs the smoke,” he explains.

“The smoke creates an illusion of bacon, and salty miso adds savoryroundness.” Kenney drizzles the infused yogurt over grilled swordfish,roasted chicken, and lamb, and uses it as a dip for vegetables.

18

Make your own decaf tea using ingre-dients from your spice rack. We espe-cially like this saffron tea, garnished, asit typically is in India, with almonds.


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Come for our renowned chefs and restaurants. Stay for a full menu of nightlife

options – evening ArtWalks, night-vision Hummer tours, high-energy dance

clubs, live music under the stars. Discover a whole new Scottsdale after dark. DineInScottsdale.com 800.419.36


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I N G A L L S P H O T O G R A P H Y

“I’ve become kfor doing nosetail pig cookinthis is kind of tto-tail vegetabcooking,” says April Bloomfiea sneak peek anew cookbook

Girl and Her G(Ecco, March Bloomfield offher crazy-goodipe for pan-roacarrots with catop pesto, shavcarrot salad, acreamy burrat

A BETTER BOARD

Made of Japanese cypress, theHinoki cutting board by Shun isantibacterial and water-resistant.The wood works with your knifeto keep it from getting dull, too.($64; williams-sonoma.com)

AprilBloomfield’s

Carrot-To Pesto

21


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34

s a v e u r . c o m

WHOLE VEG COOKING

Feel the burn: Chefs everywhere are blackening their vegetables.

24

25

Like a lot of chefs, Jared Bennett of Metropole in

Cincinnati is into charring vegetables to amplify their

natural sweetness inside, and lend them a pleasantly

bitter crust. The secret, he says, is precooking many

of the vegetables and then just searing them in a

smoking-hot cast-iron pan, so they don’t go to

mush before getting a char. One of his signa-

tures: sweet potato with pomegranate, lemon

juice, pistachio, and ricotta salata (see

saveur.com for recipe).

Char Those Veggies

When the cilantro went to seed

in her Minnesota plot, Amy

Thielen, author of The New

Midwestern Table (Clarkson

Potter, 2013), turned to Hmong

market vendors in St. Paul,

where one woman taught her

how to make a killer hot sauce

with the prodigious herb. “She

pounded garlic, fresh red chiles,

and green cilantro buds with

salt, thinned it all out with a

drop of water and some fish

sauce, and—wow!” says Thielen.

“The cilantro’s floral intensity

goes head-to-head with the

chiles. It’s a great thing to do

with cilantro gone rogue.”

At his restaurant Pope Joan, in Melbourne, Australia, che

Matt Wilkinson gives salads main-course status all day lo

(Why not tofu with long beans, pictured above, instead o

eggs and bacon?) His upcoming cookbook, Mr. Wilkinson

Well-Dressed Salads (Black Dog & Leventhal, November 2

is a manifesto for those at peace with eating simply prepa

greens morning, noon, and night. For more salads to take

through the day, see page 81 for fava bean fattoush and

page 85 for Waldorf-style Brussels sprouts with guanci

SALAD ALL DAY

Let Your Garden

Go to Seed

Turpage 8

rec


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DON’T TOSS

THE TRIMMINGS

26

KEEP THOSE MANGY GREEN BITS! DO LIKE THE

PROS DO, AND USE EVERY LAST SCRAP. HERE

ARE A FEW CLEVER TIPS FROM SOME OF THE

COUNTRY’S BEST WHOLE-VEGETABLE COOKS.

“I fry tomato skins inolive oil until they’recrisp, and then usethem to garnish a soupor another tomatodish.”—Deborah Madi-son, author, VegetarianCooking for Everyone

“We save all of ourherb stems and roastmeat on them insteadof on a rack. It’s anice aromatic cush-ion for resting yourmeat, too.”—GabrielRucker, Le Pigeon,

Portland, Oregon


J O S H U A M C F A D D E N ’ S

P I C K L E D R A D I S H G R E E N S

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook 5 oz.roughly chopped radish greens until wilted, about1 minute. Drain and transfer to a bowl of ice water

until chilled. Drain greens and squeeze dry. Heat 2tbsp. olive oil in a 12” skillet over medium-high; cook

greens until golden brown, 8–10 minutes, and transferto a bowl. Stir in 1 ⁄ 4 cup white wine vinegar, 4 sliced

garlic cloves, 3 chiles de árbol, and kosher salt; let sit,covered, for 1 hour. Stir in 1 ⁄ 3 cup olive oil; chill in an

airtight container up to 1 week. Makes about 3 ⁄ 4 cup.

“Turnip leaves andstems can be sautéed

with garlic butter andtossed with handmadepasta, walnuts, ancho-

vies, lemon, and puréedturnip bulbs.”—Michael

Anthony, GramercyTavern, New York City

“I pickletops witgarlic, anThe flav

beautifuMcFaddGenes, POregon


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36

s a v e u r . c o m

ong relegated to lunch boxsnacks, mirepoix, and as acooling agent for hot wings,celery is nally getting its

moment in the sun. In fact, forCurtis Stone (pictured), buildinga nine-course tasting menu aroundcelery at his restaurant Maude inBeverly Hills, California, was asnap. “I’ve been growing celery inmy garden for years,” he says. “Ilove everything about it, from theearthiness it adds to stocks to theslightly numbing, subtle bitternessof its leaves to its super crunchytexture.” Stone turns the vegetable’sleaves into a fantastic salad dressed with a spicy vinaigrette and topped with fresh crab. He reduces celery juice and drizzles it over a tartapple sorbet or freezes it into asavory granita to pair with rawhamachi. And he uses the avorful

28

Go

for a

Spin

TREAT YOUR CELERY WITH RESPECTstalks for braised dishes such ascéleri barigoule (see page 37 forrecipe). Te resulting tenderstalks—simmered in wine and oliveoil along with garlic, onion, andthyme, and topped with an aïolimade from the braising liquid—aresure to inspire new esteem for thisundervalued veg.

CLOS CIBCUVÉE SPDES VIGN

ROSÉ “The acidity a

of Proven

marries we

barigoule elthis dish.” —B

wine directo

The Joyce Chen Saladacco Spiral Slicer($18; amazon.com) is sturdy enough to

cut hard vegetables, yet small enough to

t in tight kitchen spaces. It makes beau-

tiful summer squash ribbons, but its util-

ity extends beyond zucchini pasta. Chef

Oliver Ridgeway of Grange Restaurant &

Bar in Sacramento, California, cuts long

cucumber strands to fold into tsatsiki.

He also cooks down thinly spiralized

sweet potato with fennel sausage and

onions and tops it with poached eggs

for a contemporary breakfast hash.


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REDISCOVER

GERMAN FOOD

29

EMRICH-SCHÖNLEBER

LENZ RIESLINGHALBTROCKEN

2013“This is a fruity yet high-

acid style of riesling

with great peach and

pear flavors to balance

the acidic tang of the

sauerkraut and the sour

cream.” —Raj Vaidya,

head sommelier,

Daniel, NYC

A German staple getsnew life as the tart

stuffing in these fluffy rolled sauerkraut crêpes.

Beer adds a hoppy noteto the vinaigrette for this

roasted parsnip, hazelnut,and blue cheese salad.

A spiced plum saucelends a mild sweetness

to roast duck.

ately, Germanbeen earning kfor its high-encuisine, count

restaurants with threMichelin stars (the oEuropean country wmore is France). Buteutonic home cookihas something of areputation for being on fatty meats and ligcomplexity. Tat’s a sbecause there’s a lot tabout regional Germrecipes, such as the dshown here from BieCookbook, by JuliaSkowronek (DK, Ma2015), and Jeremy an Jessica Nolen’s New GCooking (Chronicle B January 2015). And wthe 50th anniversaryedition of Mimi Sherseminal and still-relevclassic Te GermanCookbook (Random H

2014), there’s no betttime to get (back) intGerman food.

Recbegpage


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walnut crusted chicken cordon bleu california walnuts | rosemary ham | red kale | maytag bleu chees

Classic, hearty, American favorites like Chicken Cordon Bleu never really go out of style. But these popula

standbys really become something special when you give them a fresh new spin. Like adding the unique

flavor and texture of California Walnuts. Why not create your own modern

classic with California Walnuts today?

For more, visit Walnuts.org

r

e

n

i

n

g

C L A SS IC A M E R

IC A N A


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LUNCH SAK

This washing machine–

safe microfiber bagfeatures an insu-

lated lining to keep itscontents cool. ($25;

initials-inc.com)

BOX APPÉTIT

The lock-on lid for

this modern bentobox includes a well for

dressings, and a thinfork doubles as a knife.

($22; lunchboxes.com)

WAXED CANVASLUNCH BAG

A hand-tooled leatherbelt cinches this hand-

some lunch bag shut.($48; kaufmann-

mercantile.com)

COMPLEATFOODBAG

Roll this sealable siliconesack into a compact

cylinder for easy stor-age between lunches.

($13; unikia.com)

THERMO-POT

Outfitted with a

magnetic spoon, thisstainless steel vacuum

ask keeps food hotfor 6 hours. ($42;

black-blum.com)

PACK UPSANDWICH B

The bamboo top this colorful alumi

vessel doubles acutting board. ($

black-blum.com

Lunch Boxes for Adults

If a coffeemaker upgraderelegated your old percolatorto the attic years ago, here’sanother use for it: cocktail

hour. Thrifty housewiveshave long repurposed the potto make aromatic punches.The percolator continuouslycycles hot liquids, whichinfuses spices and concen-trates juices, making for afragrant winter drink.

PERCOLATE YOUR PUNCH

SPICEDPERCOLATOR PUNCH

Combine 3 cups pineapple juice,1 1 ⁄ 2 cups cranberry juice, 1 ⁄ 2 cup

each light brown sugar and rum,30 cloves, 1 cinnamon stick, a

pinch of kosher salt, and the zestof 1 orange in an 8-cup electric

or stovetop percolator. Whenpercolating, let simmer for at

least 3 minutes; serve with morerum, if you like. Serves 4–6.

Farm to

DoorstepDeliveryLet’s be honest. Forall our local, seasonaaspirations, the limihours of farmers’markets and the lackof choice in CSA(community-suppor

agriculture) boxes cabe a pain. But nowsome online outts,Good Eggs (goodeg.com) and Rustic Ro(rusticrootsdelivery .com), are bridging gap between conve-nience and farm-frefood in select cities. Add ingredients like watermelon radisheand Pink Lady appleyour electronic baskBetter yet, the offerigo beyond produce,encompassing grass-

fed meat, small-farmdairy, and pantry iteOrder online and scyour plans for an urchicken coop.

30

32

31 G o B e y o n d t h e B r o w n B a g


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e were somewhere in the woods ofthe Nagano Prefecture, following a

mushroom prophet and totally envel-oped in fog, when it nally hit me: We’re

really doing this. We are going to open arestaurant in Japan.It was the middle of October. We’d gone

through nearly two years of planning for this adventure. Butthere was something about this moment, about digging intothe dirt and not having any idea where the hell I was, thatmade it all suddenly, abundantly clear.

I’d dreamt of something like this for years, since I was a

young cook without the money to travel, much less a res-taurant of my own. As my careerprogressed and I managed to getmy rst taste of those mythicalislands, the desire only deep-ened. I wanted to get as close aspossible to the country’s mind-boggling culinary variety andthe devotion to craft that fellowchefs from the West speak of inhushed and reverential tones. I wanted to go beyond being anoccasional visitor and witness. Ihad to be a part of it and learn asmuch as possible.

I sat for my rst kaiseki meals,multicourse dinners steeped inhistory and more balanced thanthe long tasting menus some of us chefs are used to eatingand cooking. Dishware and the design of the restaurant areadjusted to reect the season. ime of year dictates every-thing. Tis ritua l taught me so much about meticulousness,lightness, and what seasonality really means.

Now think of what we can take from the ingenuity of the Japanese. Tink of the humble kernel of rye, the staple foodin my part of the world. Generations of Scandinavians havesurvived on this grain, morphed into the form of breads and

porridges. It more or less stops there. You move to the East,and look at what a grain of rice has become here. How muchincredible invention has come from this simple ingredient?

o be truly inspired, I knew we had to be more than culi-nary tourists. Instead of just traveling and eating with mycooks, the plan evolved into a complete (though temporary)relocation of our restaurant. We were shutting down and

going across the ocean for three months. Our little schemehad us taking every single member of our staff along for theride, but we were going to leave our pantry at home. Weresolved to apply our sensibilities to an unfamiliar landscapeof avors. ime to test ourselves, to start again from scratch.

Which of course begs the question,why ? After eleven yearsin operation in Denmark, we’re fortunate to be able to saythat people want to eat at our restaurant. Getting there wasnothing short of an ordeal. We try every day to keep our-selves challenged, to work harder than ever before, and facefailure after failure in order to constantly discover and bet-ter understand what we do. Tis trip, I think, is a way to

shatter any groove that we may have established and trulyhumble ourselves.It’s a chance for my staff to

meet a chef I know who sleepsin his restaurant several timesa week so he can properly mar-inate a mackerel dish throughoutthe night. o deeply experience aculinary culture that makes ourown look like an infant. o greetfriends old and new in a settingsomewhat surreal to us. o betogether as a team and attemptsomething I don’t think many inthis trade have ever done. It’s achance to truly live the idea ofomotenashi; the closest transla-tion for this is “hospitality,” but

it goes so far beyond what we are used to. It’s a type of altruisticservice-style, a spirit of generosity that is a foundation of Jap-anese culture. It’s something you encounter everywhere here, whether in a service environment or a meeting of strangers onthe street. And it’s one of the things I hope we’ll learn to prac-tice at the restaurant in okyo and bring home to Copenhagen.

Much has been written about the range and beauty andcomplexity of Japanese cuisine. But there’s still so much forall of us, cooks and eaters, to learn from its examples. Tat’s

why we’re in Japan now. Tat, and because being here throwsus off balance. Who knows what will happen. Getting out ofyour comfort zone is an important part of being a cook. Giveit a try sometime. Not knowing what will happen next hasalways led us to good things. And it’s that uncertainty andadventure that we’re craving right now.René Redzepi is the chef and co-owner of Noma in Copenhagen.

W

WHY WE’RE IN JAPAN An acclaimed Copenhagen restaurant—and its entire staff—has moved to Tokyo. The chef explains

B Y R E N É R E D Z E P I

No. 33


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This he

from cheSan Francrestaurant

roasted v

enliveneof tur

PORRIDGE FOR DINNEGruel. Even the word is unappealing. But porridge these days is noth

the Dickensian muck of Oliver Twist fame. Made with a range of grains, t

has become fashionable, thanks to restaurants like England’s The Fawhere the tasting menu recently featured an oat porridge crowned with

Iberian ham, and shaved fennel. For a simpler weeknight supper opt

chef Yoni Levy’s version at San Francisco’s Alta CA: creamy c

wheat porridge accented with meaty hen of the woods mush

shaved turnips, and a bright salsa (see this page for r

CRACKED-WHEAT

PORRIDGE WITH

HEN OF THE WOODS

MUSHROOMS AND

TURNIP-TOP SALSA

serves 6

For the porridge:

1 lb. hen of the woodsmushrooms

8 oz. small white turnips withgreen tops (1 ⁄ 2 quartered,1 ⁄ 2 thinly sliced using amandoline, greens choppedfor salsa)

1 ⁄ 4 cup olive oil

3 cloves garlic, unpeeled

Kosher salt and freshlyground black pepper, to taste

1 small yellow onion, minced

1 2 ⁄ 3 cups cracked wheat1 ⁄ 3 cup white wine

7 cups mushroom or vegetablestock

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

1 cup grated Pecorino Romano

For the salsa:

2 tsp. red wine vinegar

1 1 ⁄ 2 tsp. thyme leaves1 ⁄ 4 tsp. crushed red chile flakes

1 large shallot, minced

Kosher salt, to taste1 ⁄ 4 cup minced parsley3 ⁄ 4 cup olive oil

1 Make the porridge: Heat ovento 400°. Toss mushrooms, quar-tered turnips, 1 tbsp. oil, the garlic,salt, and pepper on a baking sheet;roast until vegetables are golden andslightly crisp and garlic is tender,25–30 minutes. Set mushrooms andturnips aside; peel garlic and mashinto a paste.

2 Heat remaining oil in a 6-qt. Dutchoven over medium. Cook onion untilgolden, 6–8 minutes. Stir in crackedwheat; cook until slightly toasted, 2–3minutes. Add wine; cook until reducedby half, about 1 minute. Add 1 cupstock; cook, stirring until absorbed,about 2 minutes. Continue addingstock, 1 cup at a time, and cookinguntil absorbed before adding more,until wheat is very tender and creamy,about 1 hour total. Meanwhile, meltbutter in an 8” skillet over medium;cook until browned, 8–10 minutes.Stir butter, reserved garlic paste, thepecorino, salt, and pepper into por-

ridge; keep warm.3 Make the salsa: Combine vine-gar, half the thyme, the chile flakes,shallot, and salt in a bowl; let sit20 minutes. Stir in reserved turnipgreens, remaining thyme, and theparsley; whisk in oil. Ser ve porridgein shallow bowls; top with reservedroasted mushrooms and turnips.Garnish with sliced raw turnips;drizzle salsa over the top.

INGALLS

PHOTOGRAPHY


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French bak

Eric Kayowner of thnational stMaison Ka

boulangericonsiders imission to good bread

that meantlike baguet boules madhigh-gradenatural lealately he’s bing into theancient graquinoa–wh

bread withis a customite (see pagrecipe). Fil

earthy red and flax sepleasantly raisins andlend a slighfinish. Toofor you? Ju

butter and

36


QUINOA-PACKED

FLAX-STUDDED

BREAD THAT’S

HONESTLYDELICIOUS


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See page 50

for “Raid the

Asian Market.”

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#37

Lovely persimmons aren’t just for salads and desserts. We also like to cook them

in savory dishes, including this crispy pork belly simmered with miso, honey,

and sake, from chef Craig Koketsu (Quality Meats and Park Avenue, NYC). Look

for Fuyu persimmons, which are less astringent than other varieties.

CRISPY PORK BE

WITH PERSIMMO

serves 4

2 tbsp. soy sauce

1 tbsp. gochujang (Kred chile paste)

1 tbsp. honey

1 tbsp. red miso

5 tbsp. plus 1 cup can 1 2-lb. piece boneles

skinless pork belly,into 2 1 ⁄ 2”-long piec1” thick

Kosher salt, to tast

8 cloves garlic, peelesmashed

2 medium yellow onicut into 1 ⁄ 2” wedge

1 3” piece ginger, peand smashed

1 cup dry sake

2 1 ⁄ 2 cups chicken stock

3 semi-firm Fuyupersimmons, peelecored, and quarter

1

⁄ 2 cup potato starch 3 scallions (whites s

crosswise, greens tsliced on a bias)

Cheveux d’ange (thsliced dried chile poptional)

1 Stir soy sauce, gochujanghoney, and miso in a bowlaside. Heat 3 tbsp. oil in anDutch oven over medium-Season pork belly with salworking in batches, cook ubrowned on all sides, abouminutes. Using a slotted stransfer pork belly to a bowaside. Add garlic, onions, aginger to pot; cook until so

minutes. Add sake; cook, sup browned bits from bottpot, 3 minutes. Add stock;Reduce heat to medium; areserved soy sauce mixturpork belly to pot. Cook, countil pork belly is tender, a1 hour. Using a slotted spotransfer pork to paper towdrain; set aside. Strain braliquid through a fine-meshinto a bowl; set aside.

2 Wipe pan clean; heat 2 tover medium-high. Cook pmons until golden, 4–6 miAdd reserved braising liqusimmer until thickened, 8–minutes, and keep warm.

3 Toss reserved pork bellypotato starch; shake off exHeat remaining 1 cup oil inskillet over medium-high. ing in batches, fry pork beflipping once, until crisp, 2utes. Transfer to paper towto drain. Arrange pork bela serving platter and spoosimmons and sauce over tgarnish with scallions andlike, sliced dried chile pepp

PERSIMMONS FOR SUPPER

C o o k w i t h


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Royal® Basmati Rice is the

#1 selling Basmati brand in the country.

Why? It’s harvested in the foothills of the Himalayas. It carries

the authentic flavor and aroma of the region that just can’t be

replicated. It goes through a 12-month natural aging process

that makes each grain longer, fluffier and non-sticky. But of all

the reasons, we think it’s because our Basmati is one of the most

delicious and versatile ingredients on Earth. It’s the culinary

secret to unlimited possibilities in your kitchen.


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1

inc

2

3

4

5

HONEY,

I SHRUNK

THE SQUASHMichael Mazourek, a plant breeder

at Cornell University, takes his cues

from cooks to breed new ingredients

that are flavorful, nutritious, resil-

ient, and high-yielding. Together,

we’ve collaborated on a number of

experimental varieties, including

the Honeynut squash, a butternutsquash cross that fits in the palm

of your hand and has about ten

times the sweetness and squash

avor of the workaday butternut.”

—Dan Barber, Blue Hill, NYC

“

Find Honeynut squash,

shown at actual size,

at New York and Oregon

farmers’ markets, or

buy seeds from

sustainableseedco.com

and grow your own.

DEGLAZE WITH TEAIt’s an old Quebecois kitchen habit to usestrong black tea, which has tannins similar tored wine, to deglaze a pan. After meat isbrowned, transfer it to a plate. Add 1 ⁄ 2 cupstrong black tea and an acid (for poultry,1–2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, and for red meat,1–2 tbsp. red wine vinegar); cook, scraping upbrowned bits from bottom of skillet, untilthickened. Remove from heat; stir in 2 tbsp.cold butter, salt, and pepper. Makes 1 ⁄ 3 cup.

CRÈME DE SOJA is sauce, which McMillan learned fromlegendary Montreal chef Nicolas Jongleux,involves soy sauce, but tastes completelyFrench. It’s a deceptively easy accompani-ment to royale of rabbit liver, boudin, andmeaty shes. To make it, whip 1 ⁄ 2 cup heavycream into soft peaks. Simmer 1 ⁄ 3 cup soysauce in a 2-qt. saucepan. Whisk in whipped cream until sauce is smooth. Add adrip of mustard, if you like. Makes 11 ⁄ 2 cups.

BALSAMIC “BORDELAISE”is quick sauce is a dead ringer for the classic—and

quite complicated—bordelaise. Instead of bone marrowdemi-glace, and red wine, Morin uses balsamic vinega(nothing “noble,” but nothing articial), beets, and soysauce, as well. It’s nice on steaks or roasted venison. Tomake it, melt 1 tbsp. butter in a 10” skillet. Cook 1chopped shallot and 1 small chopped beet until soft. A3 tbsp. each balsamic vinegar and water, 1 tsp. soy sausalt, and pepper; cook until thickened. Remove from hand stir in 4 tbsp. cold butter; strain. Makes 1 ⁄ 3 cup.

How to Fake38

FRÉDÉRIC MORIN AND DAVID MCMILLAN , OF MONTREAL

RESTAURANTS JOE BEEF AND LIVERPOOL HOUSE, ARE CLASSICISTS AT HEART. BUT SOMETIMES EVEN CLASSICISTS TAKE SHORTCUTS.

French Sauces

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Capitán, a classic cocktail made with

Peruvian Pisco and character.

It reinvents itself as years go by.

isPeru

peru . info


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See page84 forrecipe.

FERM

BAMBOO

Packed in cedible stal

sprouted bAsian staple—

and slightlythem to t

scrambled up a curry, othem straig

jar. ($4 for supermark

PEPPERCORN OIL

Hanyuan, a county inSichuan Province, is knownfor its peppercorns, and

turns the fiery pelletsinto oil. The spicy elixir isused in Chinese cuisine

as a salad dressing. ChefMatt Jennings of Boston’ssoon-to-open Townsmanalso loves to drizzle it over

grilled vegetables and blendit into mayo-based sauceslike mustardy gribiche, for a

mouth-tingling kick. ($12 for14 oz.; posharpstore.com)

ANGEL HAIR PEPPER

Sweet, smoky, and mildlyspicy, angel hair pepper origi-nated in Tianjin, China, but is

commonly used in Koreandishes like kimchi. The laser-

thin strands cut from red chilepeppers (sold as cheveux d’ange)can be stirred into vinaigrettes orused as a garnish for crispy pork

belly (see page 46 for recipe).($15 for .16 lb.; sos-chefs.com)

CELTUCE

While it's just getting popularin the West, celtuce has longbeen known in China for its

crunchy stalks, which taste abit like asparagus, and can beeaten raw in salads. Chinese

chef Yu Bo also serves delicatepickled celtuce strips beauti-

fully twisted into knots. (pricevaries; melissas.com)

KINOME LEAVES

Glossy kinome leaves sprouton the Japanese prickly ashtree in spring. They’re prized

for their exhilarating fragrancecitrus and mint flavors, and

slight numbing effect. In tradi-tional Japanese cooking, the

fresh young leaves are servedas a garnish for grilled dishes

like tofu dengaku, ground into apestolike sauce, and spooned

over simmered bamboo shoots(price varies; chefs-garden.com

4

41

44

43

42

RAID

THE ASIAN

MARKET Add some spice and flavor to your

home-cooked meals with these

often-overlooked Asian ingredients


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SH

HE

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46.

Wild PepperChef Mikael Jonsson of Hedone in Londonuses sweet, smoky, citrusy Madagascar wildpeppercorns in a range of dishes, includingash-fried squid. Tey’re also a great wayto elevate fruits like pineapple and pinkgrapefruit and work wonders in steak au

poivre. ($12 for 1.8 oz.; sos-chefs.com)

45.

Italy in a JarFruity, spicy peppers

from the Calabria regionof Italy should always be

on hand to serve withcharcuterie or cheeses, or on

a regular old cracker. ($16

for 10 oz.; amazon.com)

47.

Smokin’ Sugaro make its specialty sugar, Louisiana-

based La Canne Sugar Products smokessugar over pecan shells, giving it a hint of

smolder that works in everything frommorning coffee to after-work cocktails.

($8 for 16 oz.; lacannesugar.com)

48.

Powder PowerUse coconut milk powder in placeof canned coconut milk. Since it’sshelf-stable, it lasts longer, and it’s greatto have on hand for curries, sauces, ordesserts such as bread puddings.($10 for 8 oz.; kingarthurour.com)

M I C H E L L E H E I M E R M A N ; K I T C H E N : Z I O & S O N S


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HOME

IMPROVEMENT

TRE T YOUR LEFTOVERS RIGHT

Belgian architect Vincent Van Duysen’sceramic bowls with fitted wood lids

do double duty as serving vessels andstorage containers. The sturdy mattepottery bases come in an assortmentof muted colors and sizes, each topped with a lid of polished walnut or oakthat can also be used as a platter.(VVD Pottery, $230–395; suiteny.com)

49


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#50

SERVE

WITH STYLE

Detroit jewelry metal-

smiths Adam Whitney,Gabriel Craig, and Amy

Weiks recently expandedto refined kitchenware at

their store, Smith Shop($200–398; smithshop

detroit.com). Their beauti-ful hand-forged and hand-

riveted steel and copperpieces make a statement.

UPGR DE THE

OLD CAST-IRON

With a quick-cooling spring

handle, even heat distribution,

and multiple pouring points,Finex’s octagonal cast-iron pans

($125–195; finexusa.com) have won

praise from the likes of acclaimed

Chicago chef Paul Kahan.

DRESS UP

COCKT IL

HOUR

Based on the surreal-

ist parlor game cadavreexquis, Christian Lacroix’s

“Love Who You Want”porcelain coasters

($95 for a set of four;myvistaalegre.com)

feature segmentsof colorful characters

that can be mixedand matched.

BUY BETTERWINE GLASSES

“Zalto are definitively the best wine glasses on themarket. They’re like megaphones, highlighting any

aws in the wine and accentuating positive charac-teristics. Impossibly thin, they feel like there’s nothing

between you and the wine.” ($59; winemonger.com)—Robert Bohr, sommelier and partner, Charlie Bird, NYC

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y mother and I were talking a fewyears back. Tis was at Woodre

Grill, a white-tablecloth restaurant in Atlanta where I was the chef and co-owner. I was always excited when my

parents came in to eat there because, well, they hardly ever did. And that day

Mom told me the reason why. While she and my father wereproud of my success, they worried that I’d graduated to somedifferent, higher echelon of society—one to which they feltthey didn’t belong. My parentsthought that if they came to my

restaurant, they would embarrassme. It nearly brought me to tears when she told me that.

A little background: When Idecided I wanted to cook for a liv-ing, I worried, truly, about tellingmy family. My folks worked hourly jobs to make ends meet, and theyalways thought: “Kevin will breakthe cycle and go to college.” WhenI was offered a full scholarship to aprestigious university, they saw thelight at the end of the tunnel. But

rather than take that scholarship,I chose to be a cook. In doing so Itook a path they’d tried so hard to take me off of. I have alwayscarried that burden on my back. Tey did so much for me; I want to do a lot for them.

My mother’s words bothered me enough that, not long after,I left Woodre behind and opened a more casual place calledGunshow, a restaurant where she and my family wouldn’t feellike they were on the outside looking in. I also started cookingsome of the foods that had inspired me to become a chef in therst place, the dishes I had learned from my family, particularlymy paternal grandmother, Geneva Gillespie, or Granny to me.

I grew up with my aunts, uncles, and cousins all living next

door to one another in the small town of Locust Grove, Geor-gia—the Gillespie “compound,” we called it. All of our parents worked, so Granny took on the task of cooking for the entirefamily, about 20 of us in all. Tere was one dish in particularI loved, a pinto bean soup seasoned with a serious helping offatback. It was a simple dish, sure, one Granny had learned tomake while growing up poor in the South Carolina mountains. And we ate it frequently because it fed a lot of people. But it

was more than that: A rule for an agrarian community like theone my family hails from is that hard work must come withthe reward of a hearty, satisfying meal. So Granny always madesure every spoonful of her soup was as delicious as could be.

Tere’s a lot of talk these days about chefs elevating Southerncuisine. Many of them are taking the foods their grandparentsmade and adding their own chef-y ourishes. (Full disclosure:I am one of them.) Food-loving folks are taken by the South,too, though it’s often a heavily romanticized version. I comefrom one of the grittiest parts of it, the part that has few things

people admire. But recently I’vedecided we need to come to terms

with those dirty, gritty parts, andappreciate their contributions.

A few months ago, I decided tocelebrate those “dirty parts” byserving Granny’s soup beans to agroup of about 400 food writersand chefs at the Southern Food- ways Al liance Symposium inOxford, Mississippi. I don’t thinkI’ve ever been so nervous. If any-one ridiculed it, it would make meangry. If they loved it, I wouldn’tknow how to process my emo-

tions. o me, this wasn’t just asoup. It was a means of telling a

story of people like Granny, who grew up poor, people whodon’t really have a voice in today’s Southern food revival.

I worked largely from Granny’s recipe, with a few (very)modest ourishes. Her soup never would have had diced car-rots and celery and onions. It would have had just one of thosethrown into the pot whole. If you got a carrot, you were like,“Hey, I got a carrot.” I also used chicken stock, which she never would have done. It was too expensive.

Te response was incredible. People kept coming up and tell-ing me how much they liked it. I am not someone who lackscondence, but in some ways it felt like they were validating

the culture I grew up in. Troughout my career, I’ve struggledto gure out which version of the South I’m trying to represent.By serving that soup, I was letting people know that my storyis the story of the people and places who came before me, thatmy food comes from the mountains of South Carolina, a smalltown in Georgia, and a woman named Geneva who taught meeverything I needed to know about what it means to be Southern.Chef Kevin Gillespie is the owner of Gunshow restaurant in Atlanta.

M

SOUP BEANSSometimes, the simplest dishes are the ones that tell the best stories

B Y K E V I N G I L L E S P I E

No. 54

GRANNY GILLESPIE’S


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BARLOW TYRIE

quality since

“Entertain in style …” Exceptional outdoor furnishing in stainless steel,premium teak wood, aluminum and hand-woven resin.

Recipient of sixteen international design excellence awards.

Tel: 800 451 7467 Email: [email protected] Visit: www.teak.com


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Upgrad

Your ApronDesigned with chefsin mind, the BluntRoll is an awesomeapron that also servesas a knife roll when you need to transport your cutlery. “It’ssuper sturdy and well-

crafted,” says JennLouis, chef-owner ofLincoln PDX restau-rant in Portland,Oregon. “And sinceit’s made of leatherand denim, it’s alsostylish. I wear it allthe time.” ($65–290;thebluntroll.com)

Portland, Oregon,chef Jenn Louis

sporting thecombination knife

roll/apron.

Sure, you can buy caramelized white chocolate—often labeled blondchocolate—but it’s far more fun to make it yourself. Just roast a white chocolate bar at a low temperature, and watch as its sugars and milk solids caramelize,

becoming imbued with toasty butterscotch flavor. Chop 1 lb. white chocolate (atleast 20 percent cocoa butter), and spread it on a parchment paper–lined bakingsheet. Bake at 265°, stirring every 5 to 10 minutes, until golden brown. When it’s

cooled, break into chunks and fold into ice cream, mousse, or cookie dough.

56 ROAST WHITE CHOCOLATE

55


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UPPER CRUST As any bread maker knows, steam is keyto a perfect loaf. The Emile Henry BreadCloche traps steam beneath its bell-shaped lid, keeping the loaf soft. Doughcan also be proofed in the cloche. As it bakes, a thin layer of moisture settles ontop, gelatinizing starches on the dough’ssurface—starches that will eventuallyturn into a crackly golden brown crust.($130; emilehenry.com)

While they’re best

known for the role

they play behind the

bar, these botani-

cal tinctures bring

unexpected depth

to a range of sweet

and savory foods. In

Trinidad, where the

Angostura bitters

company is located,

bitters are an everyday

condiment, set on

household tables and

added to dishes at

just about every meal .

Sprinkle a few dashes

in a vinaigrette for a

salad dressing worth

asking after; stir some

into coffee with sugar

and cream for a robust

morning cup; or use

them to elevate deviled

eggs and potato salad.

Bitters also add depth

to beans and stews,

or a savory dimension

to vanilla ice cream

or a frothy milkshake.

But whatever your

pleasure, be cautious

with the amount. In

small doses bitters

add an enticing

avor, but too much

is not a good thing.

A NewUse for Your

Artisanal

BittersCollection

rink

Mexican

MoonshineIn the remote mountainvillages of the Mexican stateof Jalisco, local taberneros have long made a bootlegmezcal called raicilla .Produced in tiny batches inrustic open-air facilities,raicilla is distilled fromagave varieties, made smokyfrom roasting in under-ground pits and adobeovens. Finally, it’s availablein the U.S. La Venenosa––“the venomous”––is a line

of four raicillas from four Jalisco villages. One is likesipping the desert, anotherlike savoring funky cheese,but all are wilder than anymezcal you’ve ever tasted.($100; drinkupny.com)

THE BUZZ ONBEE POLLEN

It takes one honeybee working8 hours a day for a month togather a single teaspoon of

bee pollen pellets. Show yourappreciation by adding this

mildly sweet, chewy ingredi-ent to fruit, cereal, or salads.

($10–20; amazon.com)

57

59

58

CLOCKWISEFROMTOPLEFT:INGALLSPHOTOGRAPHY;ROMULOYANES;INGALLSPHOTOGRAPHY.ILLUSTRATION:ALLIEWIST

See page 80 foran endive salad

recipe using bee pollenvinaigrette.


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An Orange Worth Savoring Although the temple orange is not, as one story hasit, named after an obscure Buddhist sect, it is pretty

righteous. A cross between mandarin and sweetoranges, the super juicy temple is more complex than

your standard navel orange, clipping to the tarter side. Itarrived in Florida in the early 1900s and took its name

from former Florida Citrus Exchange executive William Chase emple. Te season for the temple

is unusually short, running from about late

January through February, so if you see them,praise the gods and grab a bunch. Tey’re

particularly lovely in a tart.

61

See pa84 forecip


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64

20-Second MayoMatthew Rudofer, executive che o Momouku SsämBar, has a un way o making mayonnaise in a jiffy. Todo it, place 1 2 tbsp. white wine vinegar, 1 tbsp. Dijonmustard, 2 tsp. salt, 1 egg, and then 2 cups canolaoil in a tall, slender container. Lower an immersion blender into the container so that it sits at the bottom.Purée 3 seconds and slowly pull blender up, swirlingand incorporating the oil, until emulsified, 17 seconds.Chill up to 1 month. Makes 2 2 cups.

63

62

Through the

Cooking Glass Amateur food paparazzi will enjoypeeking at their dinner as it boilsaway in this transparent pot madeof ameproof borosilicate glass,designed by Massimo Castagna.($200; momastore.org)

A Shrimp that Eats

Like a LobsterRoyal Red shrimp ($9 for 1 lb.;billys-seafood.com) lurk in deep GulfCoast waters where few boats can nabthem. In the frigid abyss, they take onthe fat that makes them silky andsweet, with big, luscious heads. “

ey

have a lobstery character,” says NewOrleans chef Donald Link (Pêche,Cochon). After grilling or simplyboiling them, Link serves the shrimp with garlic, Worcestershire, andcayenne butter (see page 82 for recipe).


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round the count

bladesmiths like

Washington’s M

Rader (raderblade.com

and Pennsylvania’s Bu

Harner (harnerknives

forge raw metal into b

ful knives. Choosing s

over large-scale can m

a world of difference f

artisans. Onetime indmechanic Quintin Mid

of South Carolina was

to go full-time as a bla

whisperer after Sou

the saveur 100 cooks edition.pdf

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