the mountains of central montenegro

3

PLANINE CENTRALNE CRNE GORE

(Planinarski vodiĉ)

Ţeljko Musović

Naslovna strana i velika karta

Igor Dončević

MC Unlimited (Nikšić, Montenegro)

&

Smashwords edition

ISBN 9781301452088

www.smashwords.com/books/view/296459

Smashwords

Los Gatos, California USA

http://www.smashwords.com/books/view/296459

4

ŢELJKO MUSOVIĆ

PLANINE CENTRALNE CRNE GORE

(planinarski vodič)

THE MOUNTAINS OF CENTRAL MONTENEGRO

(A guide-book for mountaineers)

Naslovna strana / The cover: Gradni vrh (Mt Vojnik)

License Notes

This book is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. It

may not be re-sold or given away to other people. Although

this is a free book, it remains the copyrighted property of the

author, and may not be reproduced, copied and distributed for

commercial or non-commercial purposes.

Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

2016.

5

Opisi tura su u potpunosti rezultat boravka na terenu – stanje kakvo

je zateĉeno 2014-2015. godine. Na ţalost, moguće je da su u nekim

sluĉajevima poţari i ljudi uĉinili svoje i uništili pojedine putokaze.

6

Uvod

Planine Crne Gore su odavno predmet interesovanja raznih

putopisaca, biologa, geografa, fotografa... i o njima je napisano, ili

napravljeno mnogo knjiga. U potonje vrijeme se pojavilo i nekoliko

planinarsko-turistiĉkih vodiĉa, od kojih je u svijetu najpoznatiji The

Mountains of Montenegro Rudolfa Abrahama iz 2010. godine.

Mnogi tu knjigu smatraju jednom od najkorisnijih za planinare, ali i

ostale ljude koji namjeravaju da posjete Crnu Goru. MeĊutim, iz

nekog (ili, bolje reĉeno, nekoliko) razloga u tom vodiĉu su, za razli-

ku od sjevera, istoka i juga, zapadni i centralni dio Crne Gore (osim

Durmitora) u potpunosti zanemareni, ili samo usput pomenuti.

Nasuprot Abrahamu, trojica domaćih autora su u, za sada,

jedinom sveobuhvatnom vodiĉu kroz crnogorske planine predstavili

ovo podruĉje sa nekih petnaestak „jedinica“, ali i to je, ipak, bio

samo skroman poĉetak. TakoĊe, ispostavilo se da su u pojedinim

sluĉajevima rute zastarele, a pristupi planini ĉak i pogrešni, tako da

do vrha, ili same planine, uopšte ne biste ni došli.

Pošto sam mnogo vremena tokom proteklih 30 godina pro-

veo po ovim planinama, otkrivajući nekadašnje i traţeći nove i bo-

lje staze do njihovih vrhova, prije par godina na Garĉu prijatelj mi

je predloţio da na ovaj naĉin pokušam da ispravim „nepravdu“, ali i

poneki propust prethodnih pisaca. Tako je, eto, nastala ova knjiţica.

U njoj su opisani usponi na 50 vrhova koji se nalaze u centralnom

dijelu Crne Gore i do kojih se, i u najudaljenijem sluĉaju (Jablanov

vrh, Torna), iz Nikšića stiţe za oko od 2 i po sata voţnje.

Na velikoj, pregledno-putnoj karti na kraju knjige su upisa-

ne sve obraĊene planine i ucrtani svi putevi (asfaltni i makadamski)

koji iz Nikšića vode do tih planina/vrhova. Tu je, naravno, i većina

mjesta pomenutih u objašnjenjima pristupa planinama.

Manje, topografske karte (1: 25000) obiĉno prikazuju samo

pješaĉke djelove puta do nekog vrha.

Svaka od opisanih tura je jednodnevna. Od planinarske op-

reme su vam potrebne dobre cipele i jaĉi ranac, a izuzetak mogu

biti samo zimska penjanja na Prekornicu i Vojnik. Vrijeme trajanja

uspona, osim u par opisa, nije precizirano, jer to zavisi od vaše fi-

ziĉke spremnosti, orjentacionih sposobnosti, terena, teţine uspona...

7

Ipak, moţe se reći da dobro uvjeţbana grupa penje najveći broj

ovih vrhova za oko 2 ure.

Što se sezone tiĉe, to je, kao što ćete viĊeti, uglavnom, pe-

riod maj-oktobar iz prostog razloga što se do većine naših planina i

vrhova tokom zime moţe teško doći. Putevi su pod snijegom i ne

ĉiste se, jer na tim prostorima od novembra do aprila, ili maja nema

stalnih stanovnika. Osim toga, ljudi sa kojima idem u planinu, ja i

moj ĉetvoronogi, dugodlaki drug Goja baš i nijesmo nešto „pone-

šeni“ za hodom po mekom i dubokom snijegu tokom decembra,

januara i februara i obiĉno tada samo skitamo po Studenaĉkim gla-

vicama i penjemo brda u okolini Nikšića. Ali, ako ste mladi i imate

ţivota i volje, zimski usponi su (zavisno od visine i tvrdoće snijega)

mogući na Vojnik, Prekornicu, Borovnik...

U ovom dijelu Crne Gore su planine, odnosno staze do vr-

hova, (dobro) markirane samo u nekoliko sluĉajeva, ali su sve rute

opisane tako da planinar ne zavisi od toga da li markacija postoji ili

ne. Trudio sam se da budem precizan i da svaku turu prikaţem kao

da je „odraĊujemo“ prvi put, bez modernih elektronskih pomagala,

a par (za opis) komplikovanijih uspona je i ucrtan na odgovaraju-

ćim fotografijama.

I, na kraju, ne zaboravite: „uĉenje“ koje kaţe da zmije rije-

tko borave na visinama iznad 1600 m na ovim prostorima ne vaţi –

naći ćete ih i iznad 2100 mnv.

Dakle, samo polako i sretno!

8

Preface

The mountains of Montenegro have been objects of interest

and inspiration to many travel writers, biologists, geographers,

photographers… for a long time, and a number of different books

have been written about them. In the last ten years, a few guide-

books have also appeared. The most recent one, The Mountains of

Montenegro, written by Rudolph Abraham in 2010, was even

awarded and is considered to be one of the most useful books to

any person/mountaineer intending to visit Montenegro. However,

for some, or rather, several perfectly understandable reasons, the

mountains of central Montenegro (with the exception of northern

Durmitor) were completely neglected or just casually mentioned in

Abraham’s book.

On the other side, the authors of (so far) the only comprehe-

nsive guide through the mountains of Montenegro represented this

area with a dozen “units”. Still, their work can only be considered

as a (humble) beginning.

A few years ago, during an expedition on Garaĉ, a friend of

mine suggested that I should make use of my 25 years of climbing

experience and write a more complete account of the neglected

area. Of course, I liked the idea and, as a result, this little book saw

the light of the day. It includes descriptions of more than 50 routes

to the peaks and mountains of central Montenegro which can all

(even the most distant ones) be reached in less than 2.5 hours by car

from Nikšić, Ţabljak, or Podgorica.

The larger, overview map at the end of the book contains

the names and locations of the mountains, roads (asphalt and mac-

adam) which lead to them and their peaks and, finally, the names of

more important inhabited places which you have to go through on

your way to these mountains.

The smaller, topographic maps (1: 25000) ordinarily depict

only the walking parts of the routes.

It is important to point out that all the tours can be done as

one day trips. Minimal equipment is required – the only exemptions

may be the winter climbs of Prekornica and Vojnik. The “exact”

times needed for individual ascents have not been specified (except

9

in a couple of cases), because it depends on many things: your

orientation skills, physical characteristics of the terrain, difficulty of

ascent, how fit you are… Nevertheless, it is safe to say that a well-

trained group can climb most of the peaks in about 2 hours.

You will see that the most frequently recommended time

for climbing is May-October. The reason for that is really simple: a

large number of mountains in this area cannot be reached during

winter months. Accessing roads are covered in snow and they are

rarely or never cleaned because there is no economical need for

that: our mountains are practically uninhabited from November to

May. However, if you are young, ready, and willing, there are

several winter tours that you might be interested in: Prekornica,

Vojnik, Borovnik...

It is also good to

know that (in most

cases) the trails to

the summits are un-

marked. Therefore,

every route is des-

cribed in a way that

a mountaineer does

not depend on way-

marks, if they exist

or not. In addition, since we do not need and never use any of those

modern electronic devices on our “expeditions”, I have tried to be

thorough where necessary and as accurate as possible. Naturally, all

descriptions are supplemented with the appropriate photographs

and please do not overlook the ones given in the descriptions in the

Serbian-Croatian or Montenegrin language.

And in the end, last but not least, the “teaching” which says

that snakes rarely inhabit areas above 1600 meters above sea level

does not apply to the mountains of central Montenegro – you will

come across these creatures even at 2100 meters!

So, pace yourself and good luck!

10

PREKORNICA – Kula 1927 mnv

Period: Januar-decembar, ali se zimski usponi ne preporuĉuju bez

dodatne opreme. „Kuloar“ zna biti opasan i u aprilu i maju – dok

god u njegovom gornjem dijelu ima snijega.

Prilaz: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Liverovići – Gornje Morakovo.

Vozite kroz cijelu Ţupu i na raskrsnici Štitovo-Morakovo

idete desno. Primiĉete se brdima koja okruţuju kotlinu. Kad ugle-

date posljednje kuće na desnoj strani usporite i skrenite sa asfaltnog

puta na makadam. Prelazite mali most i parkirate kod prve kuće.

Visinska razlika: 1048 m

Opis ture: Krenuti putem izmeĊu kuća prema potoku Smrdan, t.j.

Susjed, a zatim nastaviti jakom stazom prema njegovom izvoru. Iza

izvora, na lijevoj strani suvog korita, nalazi se nagnuta livada koju

treba dijagonalno preći i ući u šumu da bi se došlo do staze koja

vodi naviše ka proplanku Turija. Kretati se desnim obodom Turije,

preći makadamski put i uputiti se prema šumskom putu ispred vas.

Pratite ga sve dok ne primijetite da ide previše udesno (polukrug) i

uzbrdo, a onda produţite lijevo prosjeĉenom stazom – ţdrijelom

kroz šumu. Kad doĊete do drveta na kom se nalazi urezana strelica

proĊite ga i skrenite desno. Penjete brdo (drveća je vidljivo manje

nego u okolini) i dolazite na drugi šumski put. Sa tog mjesta se vidi

Kula i njen ĉuveni sipar koji zovemo „Kuloar“. Do njega stiţete

prateći put, a zatim izlazite na greben (lijevo) i hodate kratko kroz

šumu (ne)postojećom stazom. Vrh i sipar bi trebalo da budu uvijek

11

ispred vas. Ne obraćajte paţnju na krakove puta koji vas odvlaĉe

isuviše lijevo ili desno.

Do Kuloara moţete

doći i ţdrijelom, kroz šumu,

povremeno skaĉući sa jedne

stijene na drugu. Kad izaĊe-

te na ĉistinu, završite uspon

siparom ili (ako to ne ţelite)

njegovom lijevom, klekovi-

to-stjenovitom stranom. ZaobiĊite (spaljene) borove kleke i nakon

desetak minuta ste na vrhu.

Napomene: Uspon na Prekornicu spada u one napornije. Staza do

Kuloara je djelimiĉno obiljeţena i oĉišćena u maju 2013. Ovaj opis

je uraĎen na osnovu stanja na terenu kakvo je bilo ljeta te godine i

sasvim je moguće da je u meĊuvremenu došlo do promjena, to jest,

bujanja vegetacije i „prekrivanja“ staze, naroĉito u drugom dijelu.

Na ţalost, ova planina ne spada u one posjećenije, a ni odrţavanije.

Izvor Pištevac, koji se nalazi na karti, više ne postoji. Teren

od Turije (slika iznad) do Kule je u potpunosti bezvodan. Ipak, i u

julu se mogu naći „krpe“ snijega ako se sa vrha grebenom spuštite

do vrtaĉa (zapad/sjeverozapad, u pravcu Ţupe), nekih 100 m ispod

Kule. Na vrh se ne morate ponovo vraćati, jer ga moţete obići

krećući se policom ispod greda prema Kuloaru. Postoji samo jedan

prolaz.

13

PREKORNICA – Kula 1927 m

Season: January-December, but winter ascents should not be made

without additional equipment. The “Couloir” can be dangerous

even in April or May, for as long as there is snow in its upper part.

Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Liverovići (Ţupa) – Gornje Morakovo.

When you notice the hills surrounding the valley from 3 sides, it

means that you are getting closer to the starting position. You will

also see the last houses at the bottom of the hill (on the right). Slow

down and look for the gravel road branching off to the right. Drive

over a small bridge and leave the car near one of the houses.

Elevation difference: 1048 m

Route description: Walk between the houses (SE) and go across

the stream called Smrdan (Susjed). Follow the track leading to the

stream’s source. When you reach it, cross the dry riverbed and walk

diagonally over a slant field in order to enter the forest and join the

trail going uphill to the clearing known as Turija. Continue along

the right edge of Turija, cross the macadam road, and head for the

forest track in front of you. Stay on it for a while, but when you see

it turning abruptly right and uphill, leave it and start moving to the

left along the marked path through the forest. When you get to the

tree with the engraved arrow pointing to the right, climb the hill and

take the track to the left. From there you will be able to see the peak

14

Kula and the notorious scree slope which we call the Couloir. Walk

along the track towards the peak and pay no attention to the side-

paths going to the left (or right).

In the last part of the approach leave the “track” and simply

walk along the ridge through the forest. There is no conspicuous

trail, but the peak is always visible. Finally, climb the Couloir, find

the best way through or, even better, behind the dwarf pine wood,

then head right, and you will reach the top in a few minutes.

Additional notes: The ascent of Prekornica is rather strenuous and

demands both physical and mental fitness. The trail was marked in

April 2011, but not well and not completely. Also, since than it has

not been maintained at all, and I have to point out that this descript-

ion depicts the field conditions as they were in the summer of 2013.

It is very likely that the nature has taken its course in the meantime

and vegetation might have covered parts of the trail, particularly in

the area after Turija.

The stream Pištevac, which can be seen on the map, is now

defunct. The terrain from Turija to Kula is completely waterless,

but you can find snow even in August if you walk down the ridge

(W/NW, in the direction of Ţupa) to a number of depressions below

the summit. You do not have to climb back to the top, because there

is a way to the Couloir in the form of a rocky ledge which runs

along the crag.

15

VOJNIK – Vojnik 1998 mnv

Period: januar-decembar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik, 5 km

od raskrsnice, jedina kuća na lijevoj strani puta.

Visinska razlika: oko 800 m

Opis ture: Prije kuće, na lijevoj strani, je poĉetak obiljeţene staze

koja ide ĉistinom, pa kratko kroz šumu i preko jedne ravne livade i

„polja paprati“ vodi do šumskog puta. Tim putem stiţete do katuna

Vioĉ do, a onda se lijevim obodom dola (SZ) upućujete prema pri-

rodnom prolazu. Odatle lijevo, sredinom livade, moţda oko 100 m.

Izlazite na put i ispred sebe primjećujete poĉetak široke staze kroz

šumu. Kao što vidite na karti, to je zapravo poduţa preĉica.

16

Kad ponovo izaĊete na put, idete desno i pratite ga do sljedeće

preĉice. Na njenom kraju nastavljate desno i ubrzo ćete ugledati du-

gaĉki greben glavnog vrha (prethodna slika). Pratite put sve dok na

lijevoj strani ne primijetite stazu koja ukoso kroz bukovu šumu vo-

di naviše do drugog puta, a potom i u katun Štirni do. Na „raskrsni-

ci“ je natpis sa imenom katuna na stijeni. (Put produţava dalje, ali

se, kao i onaj donji, kojim ste došli, iznenada završava u šumi.)

Od katuna poĉinje

pravi uspon. Prav-

aca ima nekoliko i

ĉak je par njih ne-

ko djelimiĉno oz-

naĉio. MeĊutim, u

dijelu nakon kleka

(na slici lijevo one

su pokrivene veli-

kim smetom) nije-

dna od „staza“ nije

jasno vidljiva. Zato mi se ĉini da je najbolje slijediti oznake koje su

vas i dovele do Štirnog dola – ako ništa drugo, makar idu do vrha.

U svakom sluĉaju, proĊite pored bukove šume iznad Dola, nastavite

uzbrdo izmeĊu kleka (malo udesno) i izaĊite na greben. Dalje baš i

nemate puno izbora – pratite greben, a zatim, u tom dijelu, vidljivu

stazu i eto vas nas kraju puta.

Ako je dan lijep, sa Vojnika moţete viĊeti najveći dio Crne

Gore. Oni spremniji, mogu se preko malo teţeg terena uputiti ka

istoku i spuštiti na prevoj sa kog se lako penje susjedni, Gradni vrh.

Napomene: Planina je najvjerovatnije dobila ime po biljki Hvoinik

/ (lat. Ephédra equisetína), ili po (slovenskoj?) rijeĉi hvoj

/x (iglice), odnosno (lat. Pinóphyta, Coníferae) što je

opšta oznaka za bor, jelu i drugo zimzeleno drveće.

Staze na Vojniku (ukljuĉujući i jednu koja nije opisana u

ovom vodiĉu – do vrha Troglav 1673 m) su oĉišćene i markirane.

Teren je bezvodan, a nakon juna na juţnoj strani Vojnika

(osim u vrtaĉi u blizini Gradnog vrha), naţalost, nema ni snijega.

* Ovo je samo jedna od nekoliko mogućnosti za uspon na

glavni vrh Vojnika.

17

VOJNIK – Vojnik 1998 m

Season: January-December

Access: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik, 5

km from the junction; the only house on the left side of the road.

Elevation difference: about 800 m

Route description: The trailhead is next to the house, on the left.

Cross the first clearing diagonally and then walk shortly through the

wood to another clearing. The path will soon meet up with the

forest track leading to the katun of Vioĉ do. [*katun = shepherds’

huts or cottages; do = small field] When you reach it, turn left and

walk along the edge of the field towards the passage (NW). Follow

the trail to the left for about 100 meters, cross the road, and enter a

beautiful (and conspicuous) path through the forest. As you see on

the map, this path is actually a longish shortcut. When you get to

the road again, turn right and follow it to the first junction. (Also

see the note and map.) Take the right track and stay on it until you

notice the path branching off to the left and rising to the macadam

road above you. It will take you straight to Štirni do. If you miss

that path, leave the road you have been following anyway and head

uphill, because “your” road will, as well as the one you are climb-

ing to, suddenly stop in the forest after a few hundred meters. Now

you should already be able to see the entire route of the last part of

this tour which, of course, starts from the katun. The trail to the top

is hardly visible, but the waymarks are very clear. They do not lead

directly uphill (as shown on the map) but a bit to the right and then

along the ridge. In the final section of the ascent you will have only

a couple of options, but probably the best thing to do is to follow

the recognizable path to the summit.

If the weather is clear, from Vojnik you can see the greater

part of Montenegro. Those who are physically fit can prolong this

tour by descending to the saddle (E) from which the neighbouring

Gradni vrh can be easily approached. (Circular tour)

Additional notes: All the trails on this mountain (including the one

not described in this Guide – to the peak Troglav, 1673 m) are re-

18

gularly cleaned and marked.

The terrain is waterless, and the only place where you can

find snow during summer month is the depression near Gradni vrh.

Vojnik, Gradni vrh & Mramorje

19

VOJNIK – Gradni vrh 1967mnv, Mramorje 1920 mnv

Period: Januar-decembar. Najljepši za penjanje su maj i septembar,

a u avgustu na Sedlu moţete probati i borovnice.

Prilaz: Isti kao i za Vojnik.


Opis ture: Prvi dio ture, do Vioĉ dola, je isti kao i za Vojnik. Dola-

zite do katuna i preko livade se upućujete ka kolibi na rubu bukove

šume. Prolazite pored nje i slijedite stazu kroz šumu, uz vododerinu

prema prevoju Mramorovi (1673). Nakon petnaestak minuta izlazi-

te na travnato-kamenitu padinu vrha Mramorje i nastavljate naporan

uspon do stjenovitog grebena (na slici lijevo od vrha). Ako ne ţelite

da penjete Mramorje, jednostavno ga proĊite i izmeĊu kleka krenite

u pravcu Sedla bez velikog padanja (ili penjanja u povratku). Sa

Sedla odraĊujete posljednji dio uspona i stiţete na Gradni vrh – po

(ne samo) mom mišljenju, jedan od ljepših u Crnoj Gori. Da biste

se u to i uvjerili, poslije kratkog odmora produţite grebenom naniţe

i udesno (nema potrebe da penjete prvi vrh na koji naiĊete) sve dok

vam se ne ukaţe izvanredan pogled na Gradni vrh i okolinu.

Do Vioĉ dola se moţete vratiti starom, pomalo zaraslom (a

u donjem dijelu praktiĉno i nepostojećom) stazom koja sa Sedla ide

„kanalom“ prema jugu i direktno se spušta kroz šumu u Do.

Napomena: Izvor koji je ucrtan na karti je samo sezonska pojava –

dok na planini ima snijega.

20

VOJNIK – Gradni vrh 1967 m, Mramorje 1920 m

Season: January-December; but the best months to climb these

peaks are May and September.

Access: Nikšić – Brezovik – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road

to Šavnik – 5 km. There is a parking space near the only house on

the left side of the road.


Route description: The first part of the route is the same as for Vo-

jnik. When you reach Vioĉ do, go across the field to the cottage at

the edge of beech forest. Pass it from the left side and follow the

conspicuous trail which goes uphill (little to the right), through the

forest, and on to the pass Mramorovi (1673 m). Once you get out of

the forest, you may decide to climb the peak Mramorje (with its

“never-ending” grassy-rocky slope), descend to Sedlo, and finally

climb Gradni vrh. [vrh = peak] Or, you can only go up to the stony

ridge (left from the main peak; see the picture of Mramorje), walk

around it, and get to Sedlo directly, without a significant height loss

– very important on your way back.

Gradni vrh is one of the finest peaks in Montenegro, but

you might not get that impression unless you do the following: rest

for a while at the top and then start descending along the ridge (W).

After a few hundred meters you will have a magnificent view of the

peak you have just come down from.

21

On your way back

you do not have to fo-

llow the same route. If

you prefer, you can use

the older, today almost

forgotten and sporadic-

ally overgrown path to

the south which begins

from the saddle /Sedlo,

goes through the gully,

and descends steeply to

Vioĉ do.

Additional notes: The

spring which is shown

on the map is now just

a short seasonal pheno-

menon; you will not be

able to find it after the snow melts. If you find yourself at Sedlo in

August or September be sure to taste the blueberries!

Vojnik – the north side / Vojnik – sjeverna strana

22

VOJNIK – Četiri manja vrha

Gola strana 1576 mnv

Prilaz: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – put za Pluţine. Taĉno

3 km od skretanja za Šavnik i Ţabljak, na desnoj strani ćete primi-

jetiti oznaku, proširenje i kratak put do male livade.


Opis ture: Parki-

rajte, krenite pre-

ma istoku i uĊite

u „konjsku“ stazu

kojom stiţete do

širokog šumskog

puta. Idete lijevo

do njegovog kra-

ja, a zatim produţavate naviše stazom (sva skretanja su oznaĉena)

kroz nekadašnji Katun Todorovića da bi se opet ukljuĉili u jedan

stari, slabo korišćeni šumski put koji će vas dovesti do prevoja i

„raskrsnice“. (Na slici to je desno od glavnog vrha.) Slijedite lijevi

krak 10-ak metara i završite uspon travnato-kamenitom padinom.

Nema potrebe da u gornjem dijelu prilaza vrhu napuštate

pomenuti stari put i traţite preĉice, jer je teren izuzetno teţak. Samo

ćete sebi pokvariti dan.

山

Veliki Štuoc 1654 mnv, Mali Vojnik 1773 mnv

Prilaz: Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – put za Pluţine – prevoj Javorak

(1230) – skretanje za Ţivu desno (8,2 km od raskrsnice Pluţine-

Šavnik). Do katuna Ţiva još 2 km makadama. Ako je put blokiran,

parkirate na livadi, ako nije, nastavljate još oko 1.5 km do zatravlje-

nog proširenja, lijeva str. puta. Na razdvajanjima (2) idete desno.

Visinska razlika: oko 415 m i 530 m

Opis ture: Hodate putem kroz izuzetno lijepu šumu (Ţivsko razdo-

lje) u pravcu Vojnika, a onda lijevo, preĉicama i putem postepeno u

23

visinu sve dok ne doĊete do povećeg proširenja na kom su ranije

odlagana posjeĉena stabla. Na izlasku iz krivine, na desnoj strani je

poĉetak stare staze kroz šumu prema vrhu Mali Vojnik.

Ako ţelite da

popnete niţi, ali

ljepši i pristupa-

ĉniji Vel. Štuoc,

produţite putem

do prevoja. Kad

pored puta ugle-

date ostatke sru-

šene drvene šupe, proĊite ih sa lijeve strane i uĊite u kratku šumsku

stazu do vrha sa kog imate dobar pogled na kanjon Komarnice, ma-

siv Durmitora, Pivu, Goliju...

山

Jablan brdo 1774 mnv

Prilaz: Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik – tunel Vojnik. Pa-

rkirati na proširenju sa desne strane puta, prije tunela.


Opis ture: PreĊite put i krenite uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu, lijevo

od tunela. Stazom, prosjeĉenom kroz šumu, dolazite sa druge strane

grebena i izlazite na ĉistinu. Nakon toga moţete zanemariti oznake

i popeti i sve vrhove koji se nalaze na putu do Jablan brda. Fotogra-

fija „glavnih“ vrhova je napravljena sa Golopusa (1744 m), koga

markirana staza zaobilazi – što je dobro na povratku.

24

VOJNIK – Four lower peaks

Gola strana 1576 m

Access: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Pluţine.


Route description: Exactly 3 kilometres from the turning to Šavnik,

there is a short side-road on the right leading to a small field. Park

the car and follow a good forest path (E) until you get to a forest

road. Now go left, up the road. When it ends, follow the path again

through Katun Todorovića. Eventually, it will join the rarely used

and overgrown track going to the pass, south-east from the main

peak. Take the left track at the junction and after about ten meters

start climbing the grassy and rocky slope.

Leaving the forest track in the upper section of the access

to the peak and looking for shortcuts is not advised.

25

山

Veliki Štuoc 1654 m, Mali Vojnik 1773 m

Access: Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – Javorak (›‹1230 m).

The turning to Ţiva is on the right, 8.2 km from Pluţine – Šavnik

junction. Follow the macadam road for about 3.5 km and park the

car in the clearing on the left. At both forks go right.

Elevation difference: about 415 m and 530 m

Route description: Walk along the road (through a beautiful forest)

towards Mt Vojnik (E). Go left at the “junction” and continue up-

hill (marked shortcuts). When you get to a large clearing, you will

notice the beginning of the old forest trail leading in the direction of

Mali Vojnik. →

However, if you

want to climb V.

Štuoc, follow the

“road” until you

reach the pass. Go

past the remains

of a wooden shed

to the left and en-

ter a short path through the wood. It will take you to the barren

slope of the peak from which you can have wonderful views of the

Komarnica canyon, Piva, Buruĉkovac, Durmitor, Golija…

山

Jablan brdo 1774 m

Access: Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik. Park the car

before the tunnel, at the widening on the right side of the road.


Route description: Cross the road and head diagonaly for the ridge

and the edge of the forest (NW). The part of the route through the

forest is marked, but after that you do not need to follow the path

any more – on our way to Jablan brdo [brdo = hill] (the picture on

page 22) we always climb a chain of lower peaks.

26

GACKOVE GREDE 2004 mnv

Period: april-novembar

Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo (vjetrenjaĉe);

2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik –

Gradaĉka poljana – Krnovo. Skretanje za Gradaĉku poljanu je na

desnoj strani puta, nekoliko stotina metara prije tunela.

Prije nego su izgraĊene vjetrenjaĉe, automobil smo obiĉno

ostavljali u podnoţju Vjetrenih brda (na mjestu na kom se put iz

pravca Gradaĉke poljane spaja sa starim putem Nikšić – Šavnik,

pored napuštene kuće/ex-kafane), a onda je slijedila šetnja, nekih 5

km do poĉetka uspona. MeĊutim, danas, ako sa raskrsnice produţite

desno par stotina metara, a onda lijevo dobrim makadamom uzbrdo,

pored vjetrenjaĉa, i manje izdrţljivim automobilom moţete doći do

samog podnoţja Gackovih greda (JI).


Opis ture: Uspon je lagan i uglavnom se krećete travnatim padi-

nama – lijevom stranom planine. Ovaj predio je najljepši u proljeće,

a posebna atrakcija je snijeţni smet (Vratlo) kojim se tokom aprila i

maja moţete skoro od vrha planine spuštiti do podnoţja na kratkim

skijama, šatorskom krilu, ili se jednostavno klizati. Ipak, pošto se

27

smet pruţa prema zapadu, a vi ste došli sa sjeverozapada, poţeljno

je da ne idete sve do dna, jer ćete tako završiti sa suprotne strane

Mlijeĉnih brda. (Vidi kartu.)

Sa glavnog vrha Gackovih greda moţete nastaviti kretanje

prema istoku i popeti nešto viši i poznatiji Veliki Ţurim (2035).

Na vrhu Gackovih greda / Gackove grede, the summit

Napomena: Na lijevoj strani makadamskog puta kroz Krnovo polje

nalazi se Ostrvica (1836) koja podsjeća na ogromnog kita. To je

omiljeno mjesto ljubitelja paraglajdinga, ali i lijepa tura za sve one

koji tek poĉinju da planinare. Nakon posjete vrhu postepeno silazite

prema zapadu, putem pored vjetrenjaĉa, u pravcu Krnovske glavice

(1634) ispod koje se nalazi nekoliko Krnovskih vrela.

28

GACKOVE GREDE 2004 m

Season: April-November

Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Krnovo polje (windmills)

2. Nikšić – Vidrovan – Jasenovo polje – the road to Šavnik

– Gradaĉka poljana – Krnovo polje. The turning to Gradaĉka po-

ljana is on the right, a few hundred meters before the tunnel.

If you do not mind walking about 5 km over the meadows

of Vjetrena brda until you reach the foothills of Gackove grede

[grede = cliffs/crags], you can park the car where the road from

Gradaĉka poljana joins the old Nikšić - Šavnik road (an uninhabited

house on the left). However, if you do mind, go right at the cross-

roads and after a few hundred meters turn left – a good macadam

road. Continue driving beside the windmills until you decide it is

enough. Gackove grede are in front of you (SE).


Route description: This is a fairly easy tour and most of the time

you climb grassy slopes. The area is particularly beautiful in June,

and a special attraction in April or May is the snowdrift (Vratlo)

down which you can ski, or simply slide. However, since the snow-

drift is facing west, and you have come from the north-west, avoid

going all the way down to the bottom, because you might end on

the other side of Mlijeĉna brda. (See the map.)

If you are up

to it, or if you

have driven a

few kilometers

along the mac-

adam road (to

the foothills of

the mountain),

you can climb

Gackove grede

first, and then

proceed to the east – towards a little higher and more famous Veliki

Ţurim (2035).

29

Additional notes: On the left side of Krnovo polje you will notice

Ostrvica (1836) which reminds people of an enormous whale. It is

the favourite place of paragliding lovers from Nikšić and also a nice

tour for everyone who is about to start mountaineering. On your

way back from the top, you can descend gradually towards the west

in the direction of Krnovska glavica (1634 m) where you will find

several springs called Krnovska vrela.

Gackove grede

30

TRPEZARIJA 2032 mnv

Period: april-novembar

Prilaz: Kao i u prethodnom opisu. Prelazite Krnovo polje cijelom

duţinom (oko 5 km) dok ne doĊete na sam kraj Ostrvice.

Visinska razlika: oko 630 m (iz Štirnog dola)

Opis ture: Pošto je u pitanju relativno kratka tura, automobil mo-

ţete ostaviti na livadi prije nego (loš) put poĉne da se spušta prema

katunu Štirni do (drugi od nekoliko istoimenih u Crnoj Gori). Ali

opet, ako ne ţelite da se na kraju dana penjete do njega, ili imate

terensko vozilo, moţete se lijevim krakom puta spuštiti u sam Do,

parkirati i odatle poĉeti uspon vrlo lošim „traktorskim“ putem oko

brda Leţakovci. Nakon toga slijedi ravniji dio i put ide dalje prema

katunima ispod Lole. Trpezarija je na desnoj strani. Birate najlakši

put travnatim padinama ka glavnom, odnosno daljem vrhu. U po-

sljednjem dijelu uspona je potrebno preći jedan kratki, ali „otkrive-

ni“ dio grebena i malo koncentracije nije na odmet.

Kad se odmorite, sa

vrha idete greben-

om prema Crvenom

ţdrijelu (JI), a onda

silazite lijevo do iz-

vora Korita. Da bi

se vratili na put ko-

jim ste došli potre-

bno je savladati kraći uspon i proći izmeĊu Parinoge i Trpezarije.

31

Trpezarija i dio puta do Lole

Trpezarija and a part of the route to Lola

32

TRPEZARIJA 2032 m

Season: April-Novembar

Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo polje


– Gradaĉka poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje. Drive all the way to the

end of Krnovo polje and Ostrvica (5 km).

Elevation difference: about 630 m, from Štirni do.

Route description: Since this is a (relatively) short tour, you can

park the car at the grassy

area before the road starts

going down to Štirni do –

another place/katun with

this name in Montenegro

(and there are few more).

But if you do not feel like

climbing back to it at the

end of the day, and/or you

have an all-terrain vehicle,

drive to the junction, turn

left, and follow the road.

Eventually, park the car in

the field ~ 50 meters away

from the last house on the right. The trail or, to be precise, a very

rough mountain road, goes uphill around Leţakovci and continues

in the direction of Mt Lola. Leave the road before it enters the flat-

ter grassy area on the left, turn towards the south-east, take a good

look at Trpezarija, and chose the best (or the easiest) way to the

summit. There is a short section of the trail, just before the peak,

which is slightly exposed so do not hurry.

After spending some time at the top, proceed along the

ridge towards the pass Crveno ţdrijelo. There turn left and go down

to the spring Korita. In order to get back to the road you have come

by climb the pass between Parinoga (right) and Trpezarija (left) and

then walk in the direction of Leţakovci.

33

LOLA – Veliki Zebalac 2129 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do

2. Nikšić – Jasenovo polje – put za Šavnik – Gradaĉka

poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do

Visinska razlika: oko 730 m (iz Štirnog dola)

Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate u Štirnom dolu i idete putem oko

Leţakovaca. (Karta za Trpezariju.) Obilazite brdo Parinoga sa lijeve

strane (moţete ići sve putem, ali i preĉicama) i dolazite do malog

(srednjevjekovnog) groblja. Odatle nastavljate desnim krakom „tra-

ktorskog“ puta, pored lokve, i pratite ga uzbrdo sve dok ne završite

uspon. Tu napuštate put i prolazite prvu kuću sa desne, a sljedeću sa

lijeve strane i tako ulazite u vidljivu stazu prema izvoru koji zo-

vemo „8 korita“ – u podnoţju velikog sipara Velikog Zebalca. Vrh

se nalazi ispred vas, prema istoku. Lijevo od izvora je staza kojom

izlazite na prevoj, a zatim skrećete desno i grebenom se upućujete

paţljivo ka vrhu, jer se u prvom dijelu završnog uspona krećete

preko klizavog, kršljivog terena.

Napomena: Voda sa izvora 8 korita (od kojih je u jesen 2014. bilo

šest „u funkciji“) je sigurno jedna od najboljih u Crnoj Gori. Ali,

ako ste se na ovom terenu zatekli u maju, ili poĉetkom juna, vrlo je

velika vjerovatnoća da izvor nećete naći, jer se nalazi ispod debelog

snijeţnog nameta.

34

* Za drugu varijantu uspona na V. Zebalac pogledati opis i kartu za

Lijevno.

V. Zebalac & Lijevno

35

LOLA – Veliki Zebalac 2129 m

Season: May-October

Access: 1. Nikšić – Lukovo – Gvozd – Krnovo polje – Štirni do.


– Gradaĉka poljana – Potrk – Krnovo polje – Štirni do

Elevation difference: about 730 m (from Štirni do)

Lola sa Krutaša / Mt Lola from Krutaš

Route description: Park the car in Štirni do. Follow the road going

around Leţakovci and continue in the direction of Lola. Walk past

the hill Parinoga and take a look at a small medieval cemetery.

Turn right at the fork and stay on that road until you climb the hill.

Now leave the road and go straight ahead. Your destination is right

in front of you (E). Pass the first house from the right side and the

next one from the left. In that way you will enter the path leading to

the spring called Osam korita (8 troughs) at the foothill of Vel. Ze-

balac. The trail to the

saddle starts from the

source (to the left) and

it is well-established.

At the saddle turn ri-

ght and walk towards

the ridge. Be careful

in the first section of

the ascent, since the

soil is very loose and

slippery. (See the map of Trpezarija for the first part of the route.)

36

Additional notes: The water from Osam korita (actually, the last

two have recently gone “out of order”) is surely one of the best and

coolest in Montenegro. However, if you decide to climb V. Zebalac

in May or the first half of June, it is very likely that you will not be

able to find the spring, because it is under a couple meters of snow.

If you feel like it and there is enough time, you can also

climb Mali Zebalac (2065) – the picture above.

* In the following description of Lijevno you will find one more

option for climbing Veliki Zebalac.

Veliki Zebalac sa Lijevna u junu

Veliki Zebalac from Lijevno in June

37

LOLA – Lijevno 2081 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – prevoj Semolj –

Buĉum Javorje. (~ 80 km)


Opis ture: Poĉetak markirane staze, t.j. makadama, je na desnoj

strani puta poslije prevoja i lako ga je uoĉiti. (16 km od raskrsnice

Boan - Ţabljak.) MeĊutim, ne morate poĉeti turu odatle, već moţete

produţiti makadamom još 1.5 km do (Buĉum) Javorja i parkirati na

livadi blizu prve kuće na lijevoj strani. Kad doĊete u Ljeviĉke bare

napuštate markiranu stazu/put (jer vodi prema Velikom Zebalcu),

krećete ukoso u pravcu gornjeg sipara u sredini planine, obilazite ga

sa lijeve strane i iz-

lazite na greben, a

zatim i sam vrh. →

Napomene: Na ka-

rti je ucrtana „moja“

staza koja ne slijedi

put, već prati liniju

planine, postepeno

se penjući prema grebenu. Pogledati i fotografije na strani 38.

Na povratku moţete sići sa druge strane vrha, posjetiti malo

jezero (SI), a zatim se livadama vratiti do puta.

* Za drugu varijantu ove ture viĊeti kartu na strani 33.

38

LOLA – Lijevno 2081 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – the pass Semolj –

Buĉum Javorje. (~ 80 km)


Route description: The trailhead is 16 km away from Boan - Ţab-

ljak junction. Actually, it is the beginning of the macadam road

branching off to the right after the pass. It is easily noticed, but you

do not have to start walking from there – drive another 1.5 km and

park the car in the field near the first house on the left. The trail/

39

road is marked, and you can follow it all the way to Ljeviĉke bare.

However, when you get there, leave the marked path (because it

leads in the direction of Vel. Zebalac) and head for the upper scree

in the middle of Lijevno. Walk around it from the left and climb the

ridge as shown in the picture on page 36.

Lijevno sa Malog Zebalca / Lijevno from Mali Zebalac

The views are amazing. Lijevno is surrounded with higher

mountains from three sides, and there is a small lake at its foothill

(NE) which you can visit on your way back.

Additional note: The route shown on the map does not follow the

road but the unmarked path which goes directly to the foothills and

then diagonally climbs the western slope of the peak.

* Lijevno can also be reached from the west. See the description of

Veliki Zebalac and the map on page 33.

40

BOROVNIK 1935 mnv

Period: Mart-novembar (ili tokom cijele godine, zavisno od visine i

tvrdoće snijega).

Varijanta 1:

Prilaz: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Lukovo – ski centar Vuĉje


Opis ture: Automobil ostaviti na parkingu ski centra, a onda krenu-

ti makadamom (iza motela). Ako ne ţelite da idete zapuštenom

preĉicom, pratite put (na razdvajanju desno) sve dok ne izaĊete na

visoravan Konjsko. Borovnik je pred vama (I). Uţivate u šetnji, ne

gubeći visinu, i za nešto više od sat vremena stiţete do podnoţja

planine dijelom koristeći postojeće poljske puteve. Uspon poĉinjete

lijevom, nešto ĉistijom, ali ipak nezgodnom kamenito-klekovitom

stranom, i izlazite na travnati greben. Odatle nastavljate kretanje u

pravcu sljedećeg, malog vrha. Obilazite ga sa lijeve strane i ukoso

se penjete desnom stranom padine ka glavnom vrhu.

Varijanta 2:

Prilaz: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Liverovići – Krstovaĉe (lijevo i uzbrdo,

put od kaldrme) – Zagrad – Konjsko (lijevi krak asfaltnog puta).

Automobil parkirati na livadi pored puta, a zatim slijedi uspon kao

u varijanti 1. (!) Put nije prohodan tokom zimskih mjeseci.

Napomena: Borovnik je idealna planina za upoznavanje terena i

planiranje tura. Pogled sa vrha prema Moraĉkim planinama i Maga-

niku je naroĉito lijep tokom proljećnih mjeseci.

41

BOROVNIK 1935 m

Season: March-November (or all year round, depending on the

depth and “quality” of the snow).

Option 1:

Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Lukovo – Vuĉje, ski resort


Route description: Leave the car in the parking lot and then follow

the macadam road which starts immediately behind the Motel. If

you do not want to use a well marked but poorly maintained short-

cut (lots of fallen branches), turn right at the junction and stay on

that road until you get out of the forest. Borovnik is in front of you

(E). Walk over the meadows of Konjsko and enjoy the scenery. Do

not lose height; use the gravel track for a short while, and you will

reach the foothills of the mountain in a little more than an hour. The

ascent is usually made up the clearer (but, nevertheless, rocky and

bushy) left side of Borovnik. After reaching the grassy ridge, go

around the first, small peak from the left side and then diagonally

continue towards the main peak, which is immediately behind the

one shown in the picture below.

Option 2:

Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Liverovići – Krstovaĉe (left and uphill,

the road is paved with cobblestones) – Zagrad – Konjsko. When

you get out of the forested area, turn left at the fork, and drive on

42

for about a kilometer. Park the car in the field, and then follow the

ascent route described in option 1.

Borovnik – prilaz br. 2 / Borovnik – approach No 2

Additional notes: Borovnik is the ideal mountain to climb when

you want to get to know the area and plan other tours. The views

from the top are particularly beautiful in April or May.

The access road suggested in option 2 cannot be used during winter

months.

43

MALI i VELIKI ŢURIM (1962 mnv i 2035 mnv)

Period: maj-novembar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Krstovaĉe – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojo-

vića bare – kraj asfaltnog puta, katuni u podnoţju M. Ţurima. (Oko

30 km) Ostaviti automobil kod spomenika. Mali Ţurim je taĉno

ipred vas (SI), a Veliki je lijevo od njega.

Visinska razlika: od parkinga do V. Ţurima oko 400 m

Opis ture: Krenite siparom (desna strana M. Ţurima), ili još bolje,

stazom koja izmeĊu kuća vodi prema istoku do (neprimjetnog) pro-

laza iznad Zagaraĉkog katuna. Kad izaĊete na prevoj upućujete se

lijevo i poĉinjete uspon sa sjeveroistoĉne strane. Dio ispod vrha je

malo teţi, ali nije potrebna nikakva posebna oprema.

Slijedi spuštanje, pa opet lijevo ka napuštenom Piperskom

katunu (zovemo ga „selo Inka“) i konaĉno ulazite u stazu kojom se

penjete na Veliki Ţurim. Posljednji dio uspona ide travnatom padi-

nom. Izbjegavajte kretanje samom ivicom.

Nakon boravka na vrhu spuštate se istim putem, ali samo

do „sela Inka“ odakle skrećete na jugozapad. Pronalazite potok koji

teĉe izmeĊu Ţurimova i pratite ga dok ne doĊete do lijepih vodopa-

da. Tu se moţete odmoriti, ali i osvjeţiti na izvoru u blizini poĉetka

vodopada, u pravcu Vel. Ţurima. Do automobila se vraćate stazom

ispod sipara, završavajući tako kruţni obilazak M. Ţurima.

Naravno, ovi vrhovi se, u zavisnosti od grupe i vremena,

mogu peti i kao dvije zasebne ture.

44

MALI and VELIKI ŢURIM (1962 m and 2035 m)

Season: May-November

Access: Nikšić – Rubeţa – Krstovaĉe – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bo-

jovića bare [bare = marshes] – the end of the asphalt road, at the

foothill of Mali Ţurim. (~ 30 km) Park the car near the tombstone.

Mali Ţurim is in front of you and Veliki Ţurim is on the left.

Elevation difference: about 400 m (form the parking to V. Ţurim)

Route description: Go towards the scree slope on the right side of

M. Ţurim or, even better, use the lower trail leading to the passage

above Zagaraĉki katun. When you reach the pass, turn left and start

climbing the north-east face of the peak. The last part of the ascent

is a bit difficult, but there is no need for additional gear.

Go down the same way and then

descend further to the north, towards

Piperski katun or, as we call it, “the

village of the Incas”. Enter one of the

trails which will get you to the grassy

slope of Veliki Ţurim. Even though it

is tempting, avoid moving along the

edge. Do what you usually do at the

peak and then retrace your steps, but

only as far as Piperski katun. There

head south-west, find the stream and

follow it until you reach a beautiful cascade. About 20 meters away

from the beginning of the cascade, to the right (if you are facing

45

SW), there is a spring. You can refresh yourself there.

In order to finish this tour and get back to your car, you

have to follow the trail to the south running along the foothill of

Mali Ţurim at the bottom of the (talus) slope.

* Of course, this description is only a suggestion – there is

really no need to climb both of these peaks in one day.

Mali & Veliki Ţurim

46

ILIJIN VRH 2051 mnv, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 mnv


Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – Mali Ţurim

Visinska razlika: oko 420 m (Ilijin vrh)

Opis ture: Penjete se već pomenutom stazom prema prolazu iznad

Zagaraĉkog katuna i stiţete na prevoj. Masiv Ilijinog vrha je ispred

vas (I). Ako ste došli siparom uz Mali Ţurim najbolje je da odmah

krenete nadesno kako bi izbjegli dugu uvalu izmeĊu tog vrha, Ţiva-

ljeve glavice i kote 1946 i ukljuĉili se u jaku stazu koja ide podno-

ţjem Ilijinog vrha. Ubrzo primjećujete krak koji se odvaja i pored

poveće kose stjenovite ploĉe ide u pravcu prevoja (JI). Pratite ga i

posmatrajte teren. Postoji više prolaza na lijevo, prema vrhu. Izabe-

rite jedan i nastavite uspon travnatim padinama sa kamenim pregra-

dama. Od Ilijinog vrha se postepeno spuštate prateći pruţanje gre-

bena, a onda naglo penjete Nikolin vrh i dolazite na mjesto sa kog

se pruţa lijep pogled na Kapetanovo jezero i okolne planine.

* Na karti je ucrtana i druga, jednostavnija – tzv. „lijeva“ varijanta.

Napomena: U pogledu na Kapetanovo jezero moţete uţivati i sa

Ćetkovog vrha, 2036 mnv. Pratite stazu podnoţjem Ilijinog vrha.

Kad doĊete na prevoj (put ka Kapetanovom jez.) imate dvije mo-

gućnosti: a) odmah sa prevoja krenuti travnatom padinom ukoso

naviše, prvo udesno, pa lijevo, zatim opet udesno i tako izaći na

greben...; b) izaći na gornji prevoj (lijevo), obići manji vrh sa desne

strane i produţiti grebenom prema glavnom vrhu.

47

ILIJIN VRH 2051 m, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 m


Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – Mali Ţurim

Elevation difference: about 420 m (Ilijin vrh)

Route description: Use the already mentioned trail leading to the

passage above Zagaraĉki katun. When you get to the pass, Ilijin vrh

is in front of you, to the east. There is a conspicuous trail running

along the foothills of the mountain. You will soon notice the track

branching off in the direction of the pass (south-east). Follow it and

observe the terrain. There are several passages to the left leading

towards the main peak. Choose one of them and climb the grassy

slope intersected with rocky walls. After a short rest at the summit

head south-east, along the ridge, and get ready for the final part of

the tour: the ascent of Nikolin

vrh. That is one of the places

which offer wonderful views

of Kapetanovo jezero and the

surrounding mountains.

Additional note: Another peak

from which you can enjoy the

view of Kapetanovo jezero is

Ćetkov vrh (2036 m). It can be

reached if you follow the trail

which goes along the foothills

48

of Ilijin vrh towards the east. If you take a look at the map, you will

see two options for climbing this peak: left and right. However, the

one which starts from the lower pass is perhaps a bit easier and, in

my opinion, better.

Ilijin, Nikolin & Ćetkov vrh

49

STOŢAC – Stoţac 2141 mnv


Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero. Vozilo, bilo bi do-

bro da je terensko zbog posljednjih 6 kilometara od Bara Bojovića

do Jezera, parkirati na livadi, ili pored vikend kućice na lijevoj stra-

ni prije posljednje uzbrdice prema Kapetanovom jezeru.


Opis ture: Kad doĊete do jezera, staza i uspon poĉinju sa njegove

desne strane, prema istoku. Staza je većim dijelom priliĉno jasna,

ali se nakon prevoja razdvaja. Desno je put za Manito jezero, a vi

nastavljate pravo, ispod greda. Prelazite kratku dionicu nešto kru-

pnijeg izlomljenog kamenja i idete preko sipara ka prolazu. Ulazite

u ţdrijelo i pratite pruţanje terena. Nakon Mljeĉevog dola (stjeno-

viti predio na desnoj strani) konaĉno dolazite do travnatih padina i

birate jednu od par staza. Gornja vodi direktno ka glavnom vrhu,

bez velikog napora i uspona. (Manja slika u opisu na engleskom.)

Napomena: Stoţac se

moţe peti i od Mani-

tog jez.: Bara – lijevo

od Orlojevca – prolaz

ispod „Malog“ Stošca;

a takoĊe i sa desne (I)

strane Orlojevca: Jeze-

rina – M. Stoţac – Sto-

ţac. (Vidi kartu, str.52.)

50

STOŢAC – Stoţac 2141 m


Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero. The last six kilo-

metres of the macadam road from Bojovića bare (where the asphalt

turns left) to the lake are rather rough, so an all-terrain vehicle is

advised. Leave it in the field (or near the cottage on the left) – there

is really no need to park the car at the shore of the lake.


Route description: Walk along the road (uphill) in the direction of

the lake. The trail branches off to the right (E). It is very clear, but

after the pass it divides. Use the left track which goes along the crag

(the right one leads to Manito/Brnjiĉko jezero). Cross the short

talus section, enter the

passage, and then fo-

llow the path through

the gully. Eventually,

after passing Mljeĉev

do, (the rugged, stony

area on the right side)

it will take you to the

grassy slopes and you will notice a couple of trails. Personally, I

prefer the upper one, because it leads directly to the main peak,

without steep ascents. The views are excellent.

Additional note: Another way to climb Stoţac is from Manito je-

zero. The route is as follows: Bara – left from Orlojevac (2112) –

the passage below “Mali” Stoţac. There is also a trail around Orlo-

jevac. (See the description of Bodiguz and the map.)

51

STOŢAC – Bodiguz 1966 mnv


Prilaz: Isti kao i za Stoţac.


Opis ture: Parkirati na livadi pored puta, ili na proširenju ispred

pomenute kućice. Ne ići u pravcu Kapetanovog jezera, već se vratiti

malo unazad i, obilazeći moĉvarni predio, doći do katuna koji se

nalazi ispod greda. Staza poĉinje iza kolibe, lijevo. Iako to na prvi

pogled izgleda malo vjerovatno, ubrzo izlazite na prevoj, a onda

idete desno, preko kamenitog terena, postepeno se spuštajući do Br-

njiĉkog, ili Manitog jezera...

Nastavljate prema jugoistoku, pored Bare i ulazite u jaku

stazu ka Jezerini i nekadašnjem katuništu Brnjik. Na desnoj strani,

više od 1000 metara ispod vas, nalazi se selo Velje Duboko. Nema

potrebe da se zaustavljate i gledate, jer ćete ubrzo zaista uţivati u

idealnom pogledu. Moţete zaobići prvi vrh na koji naiĊete sa lijeve

strane, ali, na ţalost, to vam ne znaĉi puno, jer ćete ipak morati da

izgubite nekih 70 metara u visini prije posljednjeg uspona.

Vrh Bodiguz je izuzetno lijepo mjesto i, osim „ptiĉje per-

spektive“ na Velje Duboko, nudi još i sjajan pogled na Lukanje

ĉelo, Tali, Maganik i ulaz u kanjon Mrtvice. Desno od zatravljene

lokve Jezerina (gledano sa vrha), prema Brnjiku, nalazi se izvor

koji radi i kad oni oko Jezerine presuše.

52

STOŢAC – Bodiguz 1966 m


Access: The same as for Stoţac.


Route description: After parking the car in the field, do not go to

the lake. Walk back a little, go around a marshy area, and head for

the cottage at the bottom of the cliff. The trail starts behind it, to the

left, and even though it seems unlikely, it will definitely take you to

the pass. There turn right, some boulder-hopping is required if you

do not want to lose much height, and in a few minutes you will find

yourself above Manito jezero.

Proceed towards the south-east, pass the marsh Bara, and enter the

well-established trail leading to Jezerina and the (deserted) katun of

Brnjik.

53

Little more than a thousand meters below there is a village called

Velje Duboko. You can stop and have a look but there is really no

need for taking longer breaks, because you will soon enjoy the ideal

view. Likewise, do not climb the 1st peak you come across – simply

walk around it from

the left. Unfortuna-

tely, you will still

lose some height (~

70 m) before the fi-

nal ascent.

Besides a bird’s-

eye view of Velje

Duboko, Bodiguz also offers wonderful views of Lukanje ĉelo,

Tali, the numerous peaks of Mt Maganik, and the beginning of the

Mrtvica canyon.

Stoţac & Bodiguz

54

KAPA MORAČKA – Krutaš 2132 mnv


Prilaz: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – kraj asfaltnog

puta (katuni u podnoţju M. Ţurima)


Opis ture: Idete prema sjeveru siparom M. Ţurima, a zatim pratite

stazu koja prolazi iznad Piperskog katuna. Obilazite brdo/kotu 1777

sa lijeve strane i nastavljate dalje obodom velike uvale (Dolovi), ne

gubeći visinu. Tako u polukrugu dolazite do Šljemenâ i staze koja

vodi preko tog lanca. Kad izaĊete na prevoj, pogledajte put sjevero-

istoka i ugledaćete jedan, do 2005. godine, rijetko posjećivani, ne-

upadljivi travnati vrh – to je Krutaš.

Krećete dalje prema istoku, postepeno silazeći, sve dok ne

primijetite prelaz ka ravnijem predjelu na lijevoj strani. Prolazite

kotu 1874 sa desne strane i dolazite do podnoţja (ili ĉak do Ivanbe-

govog katuna). Birate jednu od nekoliko varijanti za uspon i nakon

30-tak minuta (ili više, zavisno od spremnosti) stiţete na... pravo

mjesto da shvatite zašto se ovaj vrh zove kao što se zove.

Grebenom hodate do kraja i stajete potpuno iznenaĊeni

onim što vidite (i ĉujete).

Napomena: Najbolje vrijeme za posjetu ovom vrhu je period maj-

poĉetak juna, dok još ima puno snijega po susjednim vrhovima.

(ViĊeti i Dodatak na kraju knjige.)

55

KAPA MORAČKA – Krutaš 2132 m


Access: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare – the end of

the asphalt road (Mali Ţurim)


Route description: Go west, across the talus slope on the left side

of M. Ţurim, and then follow the trail which goes above Piperski

katun. Now head for the elevation point 1777, pass it from the left

and proceed towards Dolovi without losing height. In that way you

will reach Šljemena and the path running over it. When you get to

the ridge, take a look towards the north-east and you will see the

56

inconspicuous grassy peak which was rarely climbed by mountain-

eers before 2005 – that is Krutaš.

Continue to the south-east and follow the path gradually descending

to the flatter area on the left. Pass the elevation point 1874 from the

right and go to the foothills of the mountain in front of you (or even

to Ivanbegov katun). Choose one of several climbing routes and in

about 30 minutes (or more, depending on how fit you are) you will

reach the top and also the beginning of a short ridge. Walk carefully

to the end of the ridge – you will be completely overwhelmed by

what you see and hear around and below this peak.

Additional notes: The best,

if not the only month to visit

Krutaš is May (or the begin-

ning of June). If there is still

plenty of snow on the neigh-

bouring peaks, you will enjoy

the view of a small lake and a

magnificent waterfall coming

out of a cliff in Vragodo – the

cirque which divides Mt Lola

and Kapa Moraĉka.

(Also see the Appendix.)

57

KAPA MORAČKA – Lastva 2226 mnv, Štit 2191 mnv


Varijanta 1:

Prilaz: Nikšić – Bare Bojovića – kraj asfaltnog puta (M. Ţurim)


Opis ture: Prvi dio puta, do lanca Šljemenâ i prevoja, je istovjetan

kao i u opisu za Krutaš, mada moţete koristiti i „desnu“ varijantu

koja ide podnoţjem Ţivaljeve glavice i dalje do prelaza, lijevo od

niţeg Ćetkovog vrha. Pratiti teren i uputiti se ka velikim stjenovitim

ploĉama (1919), a zatim poĉeti uspon prema prevoju, desno od vrha

Zvornik (2156). Tu već ulazite u jasnu stazu kojom stiţete do cilja.

Nakon boravka/odmora na vrhu, moţete se vratiti do uvala

iza vrha Zvornik i njihovim obodom nastaviti uspon na Štit sa koga

imate sjajan pogled na Lastvu, Krutaš, Vragodo...

Napomena: Sa Štita se ne morate vraćati na stazu za Lastvu. Posto-

ji prolaz kroz koji se spuštate u pravcu kote 1919.

Varijanta 2:

Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero


Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a onda na-

više kroz Radojevu prodo. Na mjestu gdje se put razdvaja (s)krenuti

lijevo (sjever) prema prevoju izmeĊu Krsca (2098) i vrha Zvornik.

Idete direktno ka vrhu, ili se „ukljuĉujete“ u stazu iz Varijante 1.

58

Lastva & Štit

59

KAPA MORAČKA – Lastva 2226m, Štit 2191 m


Option 1:

Access: Nikšić – Bare Bojovića – the end of the asphalt road (at the

foothill of Mali Ţurim)


Route description: The first part of the route (to the range Šljeme-

na) is the same as in the previous description. You can see Štit but

not Lastva. Follow the range and at the lowest section head for the

elevation point 1919. The terrain is very unusual – you can walk

over large flat rocky areas or simply go around them and start the

ascent of the pass, below the peak Zvornik (2156). Once you get

there, the recognizable path will take you to your destination.

On your way

back from Last-

va, you can also

visit Štit. Follow

the ridge to the

west. Go around

a couple of large

depressions and

continue uphill

towards the peak

which offers wonderful views of neighbouring Lastva, Krutaš, Vra-

godo, and other surrounding mountains.

60

Additional notes: From Štit you do not have to return to the depre-

ssions and trail to Lastva – there is a narrow passage (SE) through

which you can descend directly to the elevation point 1919. Yes, it

is a bit steep, but nothing to worry about.

Option 2:

Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero


Pristup vrhovima Lastva i Zagradac od Kapetanovog jezera

The approach to Lastva and Zagradac from Kapetanovo jezero

Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore

of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.

[prodo = passage] When you reach the fork at the end of the rise,

leave the road and go left/north towards the pass between Krstac

(2098) and Zvornik in order to join the trail from option 1. Or, if

you are looking for adventure, head directly for the peak.

61

KAPA MORAČKA – Zagradac 2217 mnv




Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz

Radojevu prodo. (Vidi prethodnu fotografiju, Lastva, varijanta 2.)

Na kraju tog uspona put se razdvaja. Idete lijevo, odnosno pravo, i

nastavljate kretanje gore-dolje u pravcu sjeveroistoka. Zagradac je

62

posljednji vrh koji vidite (a zapravo pretposljednji) u lancu na lije-

voj strani. Ostatak uspona je ucrtan na slici – opis na engleskom.

Mnogi planinari smatraju da je ovaj vrh jedan od atraktivni-

jih u ovom dijelu Moraĉkih planina, a iza njega su izazovni oštri

„ĉukljevi“ Pockog vrha koji, moţda, ne bi trebalo da budu predmet

interesovanja „obiĉnih“ planinara.

Napomena: Staza nije previše zahtjevna, ali ipak posljednji dio ove

ture (hod uz stjenoviti zid i travnati završetak uspona) treba odraditi

uz povećanu paţnju.

Zagradac sa Lastve / Zagradac from Lastva

* Karta za Zagradac je od pomoći i za sljedeće dvije ture: Voji-

novac i Staraĉka gradina, kao i za Lastvu, varijanta 2.

63

KAPA MORAČKA – Zagradac 2217 m




Zagradac, pogled sa jugoistoka / Zagradac, the view from the south-east


of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo. (See

the photo in the description of Lastva, option 2.) When you reach

the junction at the end of the rise, take the left track, i.e. go straight

ahead and proceed towards the north-east, elevation point 1925.

Zagradac is the highest (distant) peak of the mountain range on the

left. The rest of the route is shown in the picture.

Many mountaineers consider Zagradac as one of the most

attractive peaks of the mountains of Moraĉa.

Additional notes: The last part of the route should be climbed with

increased concentration. Once you get to the shoulder (right from

the summit) you will be able to see the sharp “knuckles” of Pocki

vrh. “Ordinary” mountaineers should avoid climbing these peaks

without additional equipment.

* The map of Zagradac is also useful for the tours on Vojinovac &

Staraĉka gradina, as well as for Lastva, option 2.

64

VOJINOVAC 2050 mnv




Opis ture: Put ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz Radojevu

prodo. Na kraju uspona (prevoj Krstac, 1908 m) ne ići ni lijevim ni

desnim krakom puta, nego nastaviti livadom u pravcu planine ĉiji

lijevi dio „nedostaje“ – to je Vojinovac. Tako ćete ponovo doći do

puta (iznad katuna Markov mramor) i prirodnog prolaza koji vodi

do poĉetka greda. Odatle se penjete ka glavnom vrhu. Staza (ovĉija)

postoji, ali, na ţalost, prolazi ispod grebena. Jedna mogućnost za

izlazak je prikazana na karti.

Staraĉka gradina, Tali, Lukanje ĉelo, Vojinovac

65

VOJINOVAC 2050 m





of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.

When you reach the junction at the end of the rise, leave the road(s)

and walk over grassy terrain in the direction of the mountain whose

left part “is missing” – Vojinovac. In that way you will get to the

road again. Cross it and head for the beginning of the crag. There is

a clear path leading to the grassy area bellow the ridge/peak. One

ascent option is given on the map.

Vojinovac iz Dolova / Vojinovac from Dolovi

66

Vojinovac & Staraĉka gradina

67

STARAČKA GRADINA 1975 mnv




Opis ture: Prvi dio ove ture je isti kao za Vojinovac sve do poĉetka

greda. Nastavljate preko sipara (ispod greda) i ulazite u stazu koja

će vas odvesti iza Vojinovca. Sa njene desne strane se nalaze dvije

jame u kojima uvijek ima snijega. Kad preĊete travnati prevoj, dalje

idete prema istoku lijevim, gornjim krakom staze. Krećete se gore-

dolje, dijelom i preko stjenovitog terena, ali i nepogrešivo dolazite

do jednog od naših omiljenih vrhova. Poloţaj Staraĉke gradine je

izuzetan, a samim tim i pogled na okolne planine i Gornju Moraĉu.

Napomene: Za

ovaj vrh bi bilo

dobro da izabe-

rete neki od „ĉi-

stijih“ dana – na

primjer, u septe-

mbru. U blizini,

juţno od vrha, je

jezerce, odnosno

malo veća lokva (nije u pitanju Mileva lokva koju vidite na karti), a

tu su i ostaci nekadašnjeg katuna.

68

STARAČKA GRADINA 1975 m




Route description: The first part of the tour is the same as for Vo-

jinovac. But, when you get to the beginning of the crag, proceed

carefully across the scree slope. The trail will take you to the other

side of Vojinovac. From there head east and follow the left/upper

track of the path which switchbacks over rocky and grassy terrain

but also unmistakably leads to one

of our favourite peaks. The loca-

tion of Staraĉka gradina is quite

extraordinary, and so are the views

of the surrounding mountains.

Additional notes: If you decide to

visit this peak, make sure that it is

one of the clearer spring or autumn

days. There is a small pond/lake in

the vicinity, but it is not Mileva

lokva which is shown on the map.

You will also see the remains of

the katun after which this peak got its name and a couple of “snow

pits”.

69

LUKANJE ČELO 2049 mnv

Period: maj-septembar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero – Krstac

Visinska razlika: IzmeĊu polazne taĉke i vrha je 140 m, ali se to-

kom puta spuštate na visinu od oko 1700 m, dakle: oko 350 m.

Opis ture: Dobrim terencem moţete putem kroz Radojevu prodo

izaći na prevoj (Krstac, 1908). Nastavite dalje pješke do Vojinovca,

a onda podnoţjem postepeno naviše prema jugoistoku. Pratite teren

i kad doĊete do lokve (na Ravnoj utlici) odaberite stazu koja ide

njenim desnim obodom. Prelazite na drugu stranu planine i stiţete

do spomen obiljeţja Vidu Novakoviću, planinaru iz Srbije. Tu jasna

staza prestaje. Preko kamenog „odrona“, a zatim i nepokretnih, iz-

brazdanih stjenovitih ploĉa produţite ka nastavku staze i dalje

prema prevoju Prelijes izmeĊu Lukanjeg ĉela i Tali (2063). Završni

uspon moţete odraditi travnatom padinom od siparâ u podnoţju,

kosinom od Prelijesa, grebenom (uz oprez) od Prijevora – prevoj/

prelaz prema Velje Dubokom; a moţda najbolja varijanta je data na

karti. U svakom sluĉaju, pogled je odliĉan.

Napomena: Od Kapetanovog jezera do podnoţja Lukanjeg ĉela i

natrag ima oko 20 km. Dakle, sa završnim usponom i „nisponom“

ukupno ~7 sati hoda za dobro spremnu grupu.

Planina Tali (2063) se obiĉno ne penje iz ovog pravca, iako

je to, kaţu, izvodljivo.

70

Lukanje ĉelo (Vidi i prethodnu kartu.)

71

LUKANJE ČELO 2049 m

Season: May-September

Access: Nikšić – Konjsko – Kapetanovo jezero – Krstac

Elevation difference: 140 m between the starting point and the

peak, but the ascent of Lukanje ĉelo starts from ~1700 m.

Route description: If you possess a strong all-terrain vehicle, drive

all the way through Radojeva prodo and park at the pass called Kr-

stac (1908). Head for Vojinovac and then traverse its slope towards

the south-east. When you get to the pond at the pass (Ravna utlica)

choose the right path and cross to the other side of the mountain.

Descend gradually in the direction of the distant saddle between

Lukanje ĉelo and Tali (2063). Go past a boulder section and walk

over rugged, stony terrain. In that way you will join the path com-

ing from Doli (katun).

It will take you to the

the foothill of L. ĉelo.

There are 2 or 3 ascent

options – one of them

is shown on the map.

Additional note: The

route to the pass Preli-

jes/foothill of Lukanje

ĉelo and back is about 20 km long. However, a well prepared group

can reach and climb this peak in about 3.5 hours.

72

TALI – Ruda glava 2020 i Kule 2063 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Podgorica – 2,7 km nakon manastira Moraĉa je

oznaĉeno skretanje za selo Osreci – Ropušnica (3 km asfalt i 9 km

lošeg makadama).


Opis ture: Po dolasku u Ropušnicu parkirati, a onda ići šumskim

putem do ĉistine i pratiti desnu, davno markiranu stazu koja će vas

dovesti na sedlo izmeĊu Rude glave i Kulâ (mada se ĉini da je bolje

produţiti do

kraja strane,

ispod Rude

gl. i ukositi

nalijevo, ka

prevoju).

Padina koju

penjete pri-

liĉno je str-

ma, a i sam

greben koji vodi prema glavnom vrhu je uzak, zahtjevan i ne smije

se ţuriti. (* Ne peti nikako ako je velika rosa, ili slana!!) U stvari,

ako i malo sumnjate u sebe i svoje sposobnosti, ostanite na Rudoj

glavi (sa koje je snimljena manja fotografija) i uţivajte u pogledu.

73

TALI – Ruda glava 2020 & Kule 2063 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Podgorica – marked turning to the village of Os-

reci (2.7 km after Monastery Moraĉa) – Ropušnica (3 km of asphalt

and 9 km of macadam).


Route description: Park the car in Ropušnica and walk along the

forest road until you reach a clearing and then follow the marked

trail leading to the saddle between Ruda glava and Kule. You will

climb a rather steep slope, and the ridge of the main peak(s) is, at

places, quite demanding and narrow so take your time. In fact, if

you have any doubts in yourself, stay at Ruda glava and enjoy the

views. (*Do not climb if the grass is wet!)

74

MAGANIK – Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 mnv


Prilaz: Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Stanjevića rupa.

Nakon ugodne voţnje kroz Ţupu stiţete do mjesta na kom

se put razdvaja: desno ka Morakovu i lijevo ka rudnicima boksita

(Bioĉki stan, Štitovo). Birate lijevi krak i vozite uzbrdo. Kad se po-

vremeno oštećeni asfaltni put završi, slijedi oko 8 km makadama do

mjesta gdje se put prema Stanjevića rupi odvaja od „glavnog“ puta

za Rekoĉicu. Tu, kao i na prethodnim razdvajanjima, idete lijevo.

Putokaz sa (pogrešno napisanim) imenom katuna se nalazi na drve-

tu. Vozite do sljedeće „raskrsnice“ i produţite još 30 metara desnim

krakom. Parkirajte kod drvene radniĉke kućice.


75

Opis ture: Slijediti put i proći napušteni katun (zidana kuća), a on-

da desno – širokom stazom do obiljeţenog odvajanja za izvor/ubao

Studenac i dvije lokve. Od izvora proći prosjeĉenom stazom do

druge lokve, a od nje lijevo i uzbrdo do raskrsnice šumskih puteva.

Tu nastavljate pravo, prateći „balvanski put“ u pravcu vrha koji

vam sada već sluţi kao dobar orjentir. Na kraju tog puta (nakon

kraće cik-cak dionice) idete lijevo i ulazite u stazu kroz jedan prili-

ĉno lijep predio. Petrov vrh je stalno ispred vas. (Većina skretanja

je sada oznaĉena, ali ipak pronaĊite orjentire za povratak, jer vas

teren na par mjesta moţe odvući na dolje prema Rekoĉici.) Ubrzo

izlazite iz šume i krećete se ţdrijelom prema velikom cirku. Kad

savladate blagu uzbrdicu, neposredno prije ulaza u cirk, na desnoj

strani (odmah iznad puta) se nalazi pećina/jama. Od nje, lijevim

obodom otvora, poĉinjete završni uspon. Za ~ dvadesetak minuta

dolazite na greben sa kog imate sjajan pogled na istoĉni dio Maga-

nika, a onda istim grebenom stiţete i na sam vrh.

U podruĉju „vjeĉitog“ snijega i leda, sjeverozapadno od vrha. Septembar 2013.

In the area of “everlasting” snow, north-west from the peak. September 2013.

Napomena: „Domoroci“ iz obliţnjeg katuna, iz nekog razloga, ni-

jesu baš najljubaznije nastrojeni prema došljacima!

76

MAGANIK – Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 m


Access: Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Stanjevića rupa.

After a pleasant drive through Ţupa, you reach the fork:

Morakovo is on the right, and Štitovo (the bauxite mines) is on the

left. Take the left road and drive uphill. The 10 km of deteriorating

asphalt is followed by macadam. Turn left at every junction (3) and

after less than 9 km you will get to the place where the short road to

Stanjevića rupa diverges from the “main” road to Rekoĉica. The

sign with the name of the katun is nailed on a tree (on the left side

of the road), and there is a signpost at the junction (without a sign).


Route description: When you reach the fork, take the right track.

In a few seconds you will see an unusual wooden shed. Park the car

there. Walk along the road and at the first junction turn right. That

trail will take you to the marked place where the path to the well

Studenac branches off. Refresh yourself at the well, walk past the

first of two ponds from the left, proceed uphill, and you will soon

come to the junction of 3 forest “roads”. Go straight ahead, and

follow the track going in the direction of the peak which is already

visible. At the end of that track, after a zigzag section, take the left

turn and enter the path running through the forest (the last picture).

Petrov vrh is constantly in front of you and all important turnings

are now marked but, nevertheless, try to find a couple of orientation

77

points, because on your way back the terrain could easily trick you

and take you downwards to Rekoĉica.

Eventually, you will come out of the forested area and find yourself

on the trail leading to a huge cirque. There is no need to enter the

cirque. Instead, at its very entrance look for the cave (there may be

snow in it) on the right, immediately above the trail. The final part

of the ascent starts from there, along the left edge of the opening. In

about 20 minutes you will climb the ridge which offers a beautiful

view of eastern Maganik. The same ridge will also take you to the

summit.

Additional note: There is a large depression, north-west from the

main peak, where you can find snow all year round.

78

MAGANIK – MeĎeĎi vrh 2139 mnv


Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Mala Rekoĉica

2. Nikšić – Ţupa – Morakovo – Zabran – Mala Rekoĉica

U prvom sluĉaju, uputstva su ista kao i za prethodni vrh,

dok ne doĊete do Stanjevića rupe, a onda odatle produţavate još 3

km do Male Rekoĉice.

U drugom sluĉaju, idete ka Morakovu i dolazite do kraja

sela. Produţavate pravo, preko malog mosta, i kad se asfalt završi

nastavljate dalje, uglavnom preĉicama (ako idete pješke), ili vrlo,

vrlo lošim putem do Rekoĉice (oko 10 km).


Opis ture: (Prilaz 1) Terenskim vozilom se moţe doći i do Maga-

niĉkog polja. Ipak, put je mjestimiĉno u vrlo lošem stanju, pa zato

kad poslije Stanjevića rupe proĊete odvajanje za Rekoĉicu (kolibe

na lijevoj strani) vozite do mjesta gdje se spajaju put kojim ste došli

i put iz Morakova, a onda produţite lijevim krakom, kratko kroz

šumu. Kad stignete do poveće ĉistine na desnoj strani (Mala Reko-

ĉica) parkirajte automobil. Hodate do „raskrsnice“, a zatim lijevo,

uzbrdo, i dolazite do još jednog razdvajanja. Taĉno tu, gdje desni

krak puta poĉinje da obilazi Maganiĉko polje, postoji preĉica kroz

šumu koja silazi u polje i ide dalje njegovim obodom. Kokotov vrh

je lijevo (S), a masiv MeĊeĊeg vrha je prema sjeveroistoku. Staza

79

ide naviše od posljednjih koliba i izmeĊu vrhova vodi do prevoja

Štrbina. Uspon je priliĉno naporan, pa se na prevoju moţete kratko

odmoriti, ali ako nastavite udesno i još malo se popnete (što ionako

treba da uradite), imaćete sjajan pogled na Babine zube. Slijedi mali

pad do poveće vrtaĉe u kojoj uvijek ima snijega. Obilazite je sa li-

jeve strane prema jugoistoku, a onda dalje grebenom prema istoku.

Neposredno prije glavnog vrha, koga prepoznajete po malom be-

tonskom stubu, na lijevoj strani se nalazi još jedna velika vrtaĉa u

kojoj takoĊe moţete naći snijeg.

Babini zubi

Na povratku ne morate ići istim putem – pratite greben dok

ne primijetite puteljak koji se odvaja ulijevo i ide direktno nadolje –

prema Maganiĉkom polju. Kad izaĊete iz šume, na lijevoj strani

(jugoistok) ćete primijetiti policu, odnosno stazu uz stjenoviti „zid“.

Ako ţelite, tuda moţete doći do vrlo neobiĉne bistijerne (rezervoar

za vodu). Inaĉe, ovo je ranije bio uobiĉajeni (kraći, ali teţi i strmiji)

smjer za uspon na MeĊeĊi vrh.

Napomene: Maganik je, u cjelini gledano, bezvodna planina, ali

samo na prostoru MeĊeĊeg vrha postoji nekoliko mjesta (vrtaĉe, ili

jame) u kojima snijega ima tokom cijele godine.

80

MAGANIK – MeĎeĎi vrh 2139 m


Access: 1. Nikšić – Ţupa – Miolje polje – Štitovo – Mala Rekoĉica

2. Nikšić – Ţupa – Morakovo – Zabran – Mala Rekoĉica

In the first case, the directions are the same as for Kurozeb/

Petrov vrh. However, when you get to Stanjevića rupa - Rekoĉica

junction, continue straight ahead and drive another 3 km to Mala

Rekoĉica.

In the second case, turn right at Štitovo - Morakovo fork.

When the asphalt road ends, follow a bad macadam road for about

10 km. (Not recommended.)


Route description: (Access 1) If you have an all-terrain vehicle,

you can drive all the way to Maganiĉko polje. However, it is not

advised, and after passing the turning to Rekoĉica (a number of

cottages on the left), drive to the place where the road you have

come by and the road from Morakovo meet. Take the left track,

drive shortly through the pine forest, and when you reach the large

clearing on the right (Mala Rekoĉica) park the car.

Walk along the mountain road and at the junction go left,

uphill. You will soon reach another junction. Right there, where the

right track starts going around Maganiĉko polje, there is a shortcut

81

through the forest leading to the cottages in the northern part of the

field. Kokotov vrh (Cock’s peak) is on the left (N) and MeĊeĊi vrh

(Bear’s peak) is in front of you (NE).

The trail starts behind the last huts and ascends the saddle

between the peaks – Štrbina. You can have a short rest there, but it

82

is better to climb a little further to the right and in about 10 min you

will enjoy the extraordinary view of Babini zubi (Grandmother’s

teeth). There is a large depression nearby. Choose the left path

around it. Continue to the south-east and then follow the ridge to

the east. Immediately before the main peak, which is recognized by

a short concrete pillar, there is another large depression in which

you can usually find snow even in September.

On the way back

to Maganiĉko polje you

don’t have to follow the

same route. Walk along

the ridge until you notice

the path running directly

downwards to the katuns

at the foothill. When you

get out of the pine forest,

there is a path (ledge) to

the left – it is the way to

a water reservoir.

This route is still

used by some people as

a way up – it is steeper,

but shorter. I myself hate

it because of the slippery

terrain (mixed grass and

scree). It always seems that the descent takes the same amount of

time as the ascent.

Additional notes: All in all, Maganik is a waterless mountain, but

only in the area of MeĊeĊi vrh there are at least four places (pits,

depressions) in which you can find snow all year round.

83

MAGANIK – RogoĎed 2037 mnv


Prilaz: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare.

Asfaltnim putem se spuštate u Bare i na prvom razdvajanju idete

desno nekih tridesetak metara do potoka. Tu je „parking“ za par

automobila. Ali, ako ste došli terenskim vozilom, ne morate silaziti

u Bare – moţete produţiti još par kilometara lošim makadamom do

Male Lukavice.

Visinska razlika: oko 540 m (iz Bara Bojovića)

Opis ture: Preko potoka se upućujete uzbrdo ka istoku. Prolazite

pored male kuće sa ravnim krovom i ulazite u jaku stazu. Nekoliko

potoĉića izvire iz kamenih lomova. Dolazite do izvora ispod poveće

stijene i preskaĉete potok koji dolazi sa lijeve strane. Put vas vodi

livadom kroz Malu Lukavicu. Kad ugledate crkvu skrenite desno,

preĊite makadamski put iz Bara Bojovića i produţite prema novim

drvenim kućicama i neobiĉnim osmatraĉnicama. Na prevoju birate:

Varijanta 1: Krećete prema koti 1756 (jugoistok) i dalje prema lije-

voj strani planine. Staza više ne postoji, ili je jedva vidljiva, ali vas

teren sam „uvlaĉi“ i dovodi do omanjeg cirka istoĉno od glavnog

vrha. Da bi u njega ušli, penjete usku travnatu kosinu oiviĉenu sti-

jenama, nalazite prolaz (lijevo) i prelazite stjenoviti teren sa mnogo

škripova i jama. (Druga i ĉetvrta slika.) Stiţete do greda, nastavljate

desno (zatravljenim) siparom, ili kao na slici, snijegom i konaĉno

izlazite na travnati greben – dio glavnog vrha.

84

Varijanta 2: Idete prema jugu (kota 1688) krećući se preko niza tra-

vnatih i kamenitih uvala. Staza ima više, jer se tuda kreću pastiri sa

ovcama. U svakom sluĉaju, vaš cilj je šumovito-stjenoviti teren i

prevoj (koji ne penjete) desno od RogoĊeda. Kad priĊete dovoljno

blizu viĊećete „lijevak“ i par mogućnosti za završni uspon. (Slika

ispod.) Glavni vrh je drugi od prevoja i relativno lako se penje –

naroĉito tokom maja i poĉetkom juna kad ima dosta snijega.

Napomena: Prva varijanta zvuĉi opasno, ali nije baš tako. Potrebno

je samo posmatrati teren i pamtiti izvjesna mjesta zbog povratka.

TakoĊe moţete razmisliti i o kruţnoj turi: do vrha doći jednom, a

vratiti se drugom varijantom.

85

MAGANIK – RogoĎed 2037 m


Access: Nikšić – Zagrad – Konjsko – Bojovića bare. Follow the

asphalt road down to Bojovića bare and at the first junction turn

right (the short gravel road, about 30 m). Park the car at the stream

bank. If you have an all-terrain vehicle, do not go down to Bojovića

bare but continue to Mala Lukavica. (See the map.)

Elevation difference: about 540 m (from Bojovića bare)

Route description: Cross the stream and head uphill to the east.

Pass the katun on the left and enter a well-established trail. Stay on

it until you reach a large stone and the source underneath it. Cross

the stream which comes from the left and follow the road through

Mala Lukavica. In a few minutes, you will get to the macadam road

again (S). Cross it and go past three (or four) new wooden cottages

and a few unusual watchtowers. At the pass, you have two options:

Option 1: Head for the elevation point 1756 (SE) and proceed to the

left side of the mountain ahead.

The trail is now hardly visible,

but the terrain itself “draws you

in” and brings to a small cirque,

east from the main peak. In order

to enter it, climb the short grassy

section bordered by stone walls,

go through the passageway on

the left, and walk over rugged

terrain (lots of holes and pits)

towards the crag in front of you.

Finally, turn right and climb the

scree (talus) slope leading to the

grassy ridge and the summit itself.

Option 2: Head south (the elevation point 1688). There is a number

of trails, and they all switchback over the (grassy/rocky) area. The

orientation point is the pass on the right from RogoĊed, but there is

no need to go all the way and climb it. When you get close enough,

86

you will see the natural passage on the left and a way or two to the

top. The main peak is the second from the pass. The ascent is a bit

steep, but interesting. This tour is recommended in May when there

is plenty of snow.

Additional notes: The first option may seem difficult, but it is not

so. If you wish, you can use one way to get to the top and the other

to go down from it. (The map: RogoĊed and Boţurni vrh 1 & 2)

87

MAGANIK – Boţurni vrh 1923 mnv


Prilaz: Isti kao i za RogoĊed.


Opis ture: Varijanta 1: Prvi dio rute je isti kao i za RogoĊed, ali kad proĊete

prevoj idete lijevo i ulazite u dugu travnatu jarugu koja će vas od-

vesti iza stjenovitog Tićjaka (1814 m) i dalje prema vrhu – donja

fotografija. Krećete se postepeno naviše, put jugoistoka, prateći

planinu kako bi izbjegli mnogobrojne vrtaĉe na desnoj strani.

Nekadašnja staza se moţe samo povremeno nazrijeti.

88

Varijanta 2: Preko Male Lukavice putem dolazite do crkve, a zatim

i izvora Babino sicalo. Nastavite još, otprilike, par stotina metara i

na desnoj strani ćete viĊeti kuću sa drvenim krovom koji se jedva

drţi (prva slika).

Odmah iza nje,

u desno, poĉinje

još vidljiva staza

koja obillazi Ti-

ćjak s lijeve str-

ane, vodi ţdrije-

lom do prevoja i

tu se ukljuĉuje u

„stazu“ iz varijante 1. (* Rano ujutro, kad ima slane, ili dosta rose,

stijene u gornjem dijelu ţdrijela su vrlo klizave.)

Napomena: Postoji i treća mogućnost: od dola ispod puta za Velje

Duboko. (Vidi i malu

fotografiju u opisu na

engleskom jez.) Ne-

ma potrebe da idete

putem i silazite u do

– moţete koristiti pri-

stupnu stazu koja ide

od već pominjane po-

lusrušene kuće, pod-

noţjem planine i ula-

zi u usjek. Uspon je

vrlo jak, oko 350 m u

visinu, ali penjete se

kroz izuzetno zanim-

ljiv prirodni kanal, t.j.

„sulundar“ i izlazite taĉno ispod vrha, sa desne strane.

Ipak, doţivljaj će biti najpotpuniji ako uspon odradite vari-

jantom 1, ili 2, a silazak varijantom 3.

Pogled sa vrha je... neobiĉan. Dobijate potpuno nov uvid u

okolni teren, naravno, ukoliko ga već poznajete.

89

MAGANIK – Boţurni vrh 1923 m


Access: The same as for RogoĊed.


Route description: If you do not mind walking over difficult ter-

rain and also enjoy looking for your own tracks, this is the tour for

you. This is a rough little mountain and the views are excellent.

Option1: The first part of the route is the same as for RogoĊed but,

after the pass, look for the longish and shallow grassy ravine on the

left. It will take you behind Tićjak (1814 m). Now head south-east,

gradually gaining height, and always follow the line of the mount-

ain. In that way you will avoid the numerous depressions and pits

on the right. The trail is hardly visible, but there are several “road

signs” in the form of small cairns.

Option 2: Start from the parking (Bare Bojovića) and go all the way

through Mala Lukavica. Follow the gravel road until you see the

ruined house on the right (the roof has not collapsed yet). There is a

visible path behind it (through the gully). This path goes around

Tićjak from the left side (SE), runs through the gorge (W), climbs

the pass, and eventually joins the route from option 1.

Additional note: There is

another option: the ascent

starts above the valley on

the right side of the road to

Velje Duboko. (See the 2nd

picture on page 87.) Once

you set off for the summit,

there is a relentless, ~ 350

m high steep slope waiting

for you. But, you will also

go through an interesting

natural passage / “channel”,

and reach the peak from its

right, grassy side.

90

SINJAJEVINA – Korman 1923 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: 1. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Ţabljak – NjegovuĊa –

Zmijniĉko jezero. Gole vrhove Kormana vidite na lijevoj strani,

ĉim uĊete u „centar“ NjegovuĊe.

2. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Provalija/Bukovica –

Banske kuće – Vraţje jezero – NjegovuĊa – Zmijniĉko jezero.

Korman je sada desno od NjegovuĊe.

Visinska razlika: oko 600 m (od jezera), ili 400 m sa Pašinog polja

Opis ture: Od Zmijniĉkog jezera do Pašinog polja vodi dobar mak-

adamski put. Ako se odluĉite da automobil ostavite na kraju asfalta,

narednih 3,7 km moţete uţivati u šetnji kroz borovu i jelovu šumu.

Odmah po izlasku na Pašino polje ćete viĊeti par starih, oštećenih

drvenih koliba (desno), a zatim napuštate glavni put i idete dalje šu-

91

mskim putem (lijevo). Ukoliko ubrzo ne primijetite preĉicu (takoĊe

na lijevoj strani, preko male livade – skretanje oznaĉeno), slijedite

put dok ne doĊete do treće „oštre“ krivine ulijevo. Na tom mjestu,

pored (taĉnije, iza) kamene kupe poĉinje primjetna staza uzbrdo.

Nakon par stotina

metara dolazite na

proplanak sa koga

vidite prvi vrh ko-

ji ne penjete nego

zaobilazite. Odat-

le je moguće poĉ-

eti završni uspon,

ali je, ipak, bolje

da pratite jasnu stazu preko proplanka i dalje kroz šumu. Tako ćete

lako doći do travnatih padina i duge jaruge koja vodi do glavnog

vrha – juţna strana.

Napomena: Teren je šumovit, ali ne i teţak za kretanje, ako pratite

stazu koja je dobro oĉišćena i obiljeţena.

Predio od NjegovuĊe do Zmijniĉkog jezera i dalje ka vrhu

je izuzetno lijep. Na Kormanu i obliţnjoj Kučevici (1783) se nalaze

najbolje i najkrupnije borovnice u ovom dijelu Crne Gore.

Najljepše vrijeme za ovu turu je upravo period avgust-sep-

tembar. Preporuĉujem je i onima koji se ne bave planinarenjem.

92

SINJAJEVINA – Korman 1923 m

Season: May-October

Access: 1. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Ţabljak – NjegovuĊa –

Zmijniĉko jezero. You will see the barren peaks of Korman on the

left, as soon as you get to NjegovuĊa.

2. Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica* – Provalija/Bukovica –

Banske kuće – NjegovuĊa – Zmijniĉko jezero. Now the peaks are

on the right. *You can also use the old Šavnik - Ţabljak road.

Elevation difference: 400 m from Pašino polje; and 600 m from

the lake (Zmijniĉko jez.)

Route description: The macadam road from Zmijniĉko jezero to

Pašino polje is quite OK, but you can also leave the car at the lake,

or at the end of the asphalt road, and the next 4.5, or 3.7 km will be

a pleasant walk through the coniferous forest. When you get to the

plateau of Pašino polje, you will notice two ruined wooden huts on

the right. Go past them and look for the track branching off to the

left. Follow it until you reach the third curve going sharply to the

left. The trail starts there, from a small pile of stones, and it is partly

marked (arrows carved and painted on the trees). After a couple

hundred meters you will come to the clearing from which the first

peak can be seen. If you decide to make the final ascent from there,

traverse it from the left side. However, it is better to continue along

the good path

going across

the field and

further throu-

gh the forest.

In 10-15 min.

you will find

yourself near

the beginning

of a long ravine leading to the mild grassy slopes of the main peak.

Additional notes: The area from NjegovuĊa to Zmijniĉko jezero is

extraordinary beautiful. Korman and neighbouring Kučevica (1783)

are the places where the best and largest blueberries in this part of

93

Montenegro can be found. The recommended period for climbing

Korman (or Kuĉevica from Ramovo ţdrijelo, before NjegovuĊa) is

August – September.

94

SINJAJEVINA – Babin vrh 2013 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Sirovac – Bare – Jeĉišta

Od raskrsnice Boan - Ţabljak do skretanja za Bare ima 6.8

km i potrebno je biti paţljiv, jer se vrlo lako moţe desiti da ga pro-

Ċete. Put do Bara je asfaltni, ali je u prvom dijelu vrlo strm, uzak i

oštećen. Do naglog skretanja za Jeĉišta imate 4,8 km (dobar orjentir

moţe biti lijepa kuća sa zelenim krovom), a odatle još ~5 km do

kraja asfalta. Automobil ostavljate na proširenju pored lokve.


95

Opis ture: Krenite dalje putem ka Polju Bijelića. Kad doĊete na

prevoj prije polja ugledaćete niz od 4-5 vrhova. Babin vrh je treći s

lijeva. Staza koja je ucrtana na karti je samo jedna od nekoliko

mogućnosti koje teren dopušta. Bitno je samo da se postepeno pe-

njete u pravcu vrha i tako ćete ući u jaku stazu koja će vas dovesti

do Babine lokve – malog jezera izmeĊu susjedne Piramide (1985) i

prvog, nešto niţeg od, zapravo, dva Babina vrha.

96

SINJAJEVINA – Babin vrh 2013 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Sirovac – Bare – Jeĉišta

The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the unmarked

and sudden turning to Bare is ~7 km, so better be careful not to

miss it. The road to Bare is asphalt, but at the beginning it is rather

steep, narrow, and sporadically damaged. You will reach the sharp

turning to Jeĉišta after 4.8 km; the house with green roof is a good

orientation point. Park the car at a widening at the end of the

asphalt. (See the satellite map on page 93.)


Route description: Walk to Polje Bijelića (Bijelićas’ field) along

the mountain road which is, at some places, exclusively for stronger

all-terrain vehicles. When you get to the pass before the field, you

will notice the row of 4-5 peaks. Babin vrh (Grandmother’s peak) is

the third from the left. The route given on the map is just one of

several options which are

offered by the terrain. It is

only recommended that

the trail you choose takes

you to Babina lokva – a

small lake between neigh-

boring Piramida (1985) and

the lower of, in fact, two

Grandmother’s peaks.

97

SINJAJEVINA – Veliki Pećarac 2042 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Isti kao i za Babin vrh.

Visinska razlika: oko 400 m (od podnoţja do vrha)

Kriĉaĉko i Staraĉko polje

Opis ture: Jeĉišta - Polje Bijelića. Odatle se preĉicom (SI), a zatim

putem uputiti prema istoku, odnosno ka najvećoj planini u tom pra-

vcu. Stiţete do raskrsnice Kriĉaĉko polje - Staraĉko polje (postoji i

znak) i idete lijevo. Do podnoţja Velikog Pećarca dolazite krećući

se obodom Kriĉaĉkog polja. Kad proĊete temelje nekadašnje kuće,

nakon pedesetak metara ćete na desnoj strani primijetiti kratak put,

a zatim i jasnu stazu koja vodi do obliţnjeg katuna. Iza njega je

vododerina kojom moţete poĉeti penjanje uz Otmićevac. Glavni

vrh je sasvim lijevo. Od kraja asfalta do vrha ima oko 9,5 km.

Ako nijeste došli

terenskim automo-

bilom, loša strana

ove ture (za neko-

ga) moţe biti dug

hod po putu, 7 km

do podnoţja. Zbog

toga se Veliki Peć-

arac obiĉno i penje

u jesen ili proljeće – da bi se izbjegli vrući dani. Vode za piće nema

poslije Jeĉišta – ĉesma na desnoj strani puta prije prve kuće.

98

Veliki Pećarac

99

SINJAJEVINA – Veliki Pećarac 2042 m

Season: May-October

Access: The same as for Babin vrh.

Elevation difference: ~ 400 m (from the foothills to the summit)

Route description: Jeĉišta - Polje Bijelića. (See the prev. descript-

tion and the map on page 94.) Head north-east, take the shortcut to

the right, and then follow the gravel road going in the direction of

Veliki Pećarac, the highest peak in this area. At the junction (Kri-

ĉaĉko polje - Staraĉko polje, there is a signpost) go left and the road

will take you to the foothills of the mountain. About 50 m from the

ruins on the right (a former house, see the picture below), you will

notice the clear path leading to a nearby cottage. Start the ascent

behind it, through the ravine. The main peak is on the left – the

route is shown above.

The only

“shortcoming” of

this tour (at least,

for some people)

could be the long

walk (back) along

the gravel road – 7

km. However, the

effort is well rewarded: the open spaces and the views from the top

are really magnificent. The area is particularly beautiful in June, but

the best season to climb V. Pecarac is autumn – to avoid the hot

weather. Bear in mind that the area is waterless.

100

SINJAJEVINA – Veliki starac 2022 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Gornja rijeka (Krnja jela) – Lju-

tovac. Od raskrsnice Boan - Ţabljak do iznenadnog skretanja u

lijevo sa glavnog puta u mjestu Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) je 8,2 km.

(Vidi satelitsku mapu pristupa Babinom vrhu.) Put je asfaltni, uzak

i vrlo strm, 3km. Dalje nastavljate kratko makadamom (0,7 km) i

ostavljate automobil na proširenju sa desne strane puta. Odatle po-

ĉinje pješaĉki dio ture.


Opis ture: Hodati putem dok ne vidite prvu kuću na lijevoj strani, a

zatim se iznad nje uputiti na istok, prema Vali. Moţete pratiti njeno

pruţanje u gornjem dijelu, a onda sami izaberite kuda vam najbolje

odgovara. Staza koja je opisana i ona koja je ucrtana na karti su sa-

mo par od nekoliko mogućih varijanti za ovu turu. U stvari, naj-

vaţnije je da se stalno krećete u pravcu sjeveroistoka i na kraju ćete

doći do najvišeg vrha na kom se nalazi mala „piramida“. (Na slici

ispod oblaka.) Pogled je odliĉan.

Napomena: Kad ste već tu, popnite i druga dva, samo 1m niţa, ali

ipak, ljepša vrha Velikog starca. Manja fotografija na strani 101.

101

SINJAJEVINA – Veliki starac 2022 m

Season: May-October

102

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) – Lju-

tovac. The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the unmarked

and sudden turning to the left in Krnja jela or, more precisely, Go-

rnja Rijeka is 8.2 km. (See the satellite map showing the access to

Babin vrh.) The road to Ljutovac is asphalt, but narrow and rather

steep – 3 km. The final 0.7 km to the parking place (on the right

side of the road) is macadam.


V. Starac 2022 from V. Starac 2021

Route description: Continue along the road on foot until you see

the first house on the left. Go past that house and head east in the

direction of Vala. When you “enter” it, just follow the terrain and

keep on climbing (NE). Still, the route given on the map is only a

suggestion – there are several ways to the summit. In fact, the only

real instruction is as follows: move north-east all the time, looking

for the highest peak with a small pyramidal structure at the top.

← Additional

note: Since you

are already here,

you should pro-

long this tour for

~15 minutes and

climb the 2, only

1m lower, peaks

of V. starac too.

(SE) It is worth the effort because they offer the closer views of

Jablanov vrh and Gradište.

103

SINJAJEVINA – Jablanov vrh 2203 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Kao i za V. Starac, stim što od Ljutovca do katuna Jeĉmen

do nastavljate popravljanim, ali, ipak, povremeno lošim putem

prema istoku. (~ 9 km)


Opis ture: Vozilo ostaviti u blizini izvora/ubla Smrdan. Idete kra-

tko putem, a onda lijevo ka bliţem i naizgled najvišem vrhu plani-

ne pored Kukavice (1860) na desnoj, a zatim i Pekove glave (1872)

na lijevoj strani. Prolazite kotu 1913 (lijevo) i dolazite do podnoţja

planine. Uoĉavate stazu koja vodi ukoso naviše – poĉetak uspona.

Nakon prolaza

(prva fotografija

u opisu na engl.

jeziku) moţete,

ako imate volje i

vremena, produ-

ţiti sve do poĉe-

tka litice, baciti

pogled u pravcu

Gornjeg Lipova,

i konaĉno grebenom lagano završiti uspon do „zidine“ na vrhu. Ako

je dan lijep, pogled (prema Gradištu i Torni naroĉito) je izuzetan.

104

SINJAJEVINA – Jablanov vrh 2203 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Gornja Rijeka (Krnja Jela) –

Ljutovac – Potrk – Jeĉmen do. The macadam road from Ljutovac to

the katun called Jeĉmen do is sometimes quite rough. (~ 9 km)


Route description: Park the vehicle in the field near the well/water

reservoir (called Smrdan). Head for the closer, and seemingly the

105

highest, peak of the mountain in front of you. Walk between Ku-

kavica (1860) and Pekova glavica (1872), and finally pass the

elevation point 1913 from the right side. In less than an hour you

should be at the foothill of the mountain. There is a trail running

upwards to the right.

Follow it to the pass-

age (behind the people

in the picture) and then

go north-east towards

the main peak. Or, in

order to make the tour

more interesting, you

can go on all the way

to the beginning of the

ridge (the edge of the

cliff) take a short break

and have a look at the village of (Gornje) Lipovo, and finish the

ascent along the ridge.

If the weather is clear, the views are excellent, particularly

the ones of Gradište and Torna.

Jablanov vrh, Torna and Gradište (in the background) from Veliki Starac, 2021 m,

in November 2015.

106

GRADIŠTE – Vranova glavica 2215 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Isti kao i za Jablanov vrh, ali ne idete do Jeĉmen dola.


Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate pored kuće sa limenim krovom,

otprilike 8 km od kraja asfalta. Na fotografiji je Šupljaĉa (2071 m).

Jaka staza vodi prema lokvi u njenom podnoţju. Nakon prevoja na-

puštate tu stazu i idete obodom oveće depresije (jedan od nekoliko

Arbanaških dolova) izbjegavajući veći gubitak u visini. Odatle dalje

uzbrdo, „lijevkom“ prema jugu. Na kraju uspona teren se otvara i

nudi dvije varijante. U prvoj, na Vranovu glavicu stiţete sa desne

strane vrha. Krećete prema jugozapadu (teren vas sam vodi). Ispod

prevoja su tri manja sipara koja moţete obići takoĊe sa desne stra-

ne. Iznad njih je staza u koju se ukljuĉujete i tako stiţete na cilj.

Varijanta 2: Hodajući prema jugu stiţete do podnoţja veli-

kog sipara (Gradištâ 2174). Penjete se ka sedlu i nastavljate desno.

107

GRADIŠTE – Vranova glavica 2215 m

Season: May-October

Access: The same as for Jablanov vrh, but you do not drive all the

way to Jeĉmen do.


Vranova glavica i Gradišta sa Torne / Vranova glavica and Gradišta from Torna

Route description: Park the car near the house with tin roof, ~ 8

km from the end of the asphalt. The photograph above gives you

the “rear” view of the mountain. There is a good path leading in the

direction of the pond at the foothills of Šupljaĉa 2071 (SE; the first

picture in the Montenegrin description). Once you get over the pass

/ridge, leave the path, head south, walk around a large depression,

and continue uphill until the terrain opens. Now go down and then

up towards the scree slope left from the main peak. When you get

close enough, you

will notice the zig-

zag trail to the sad-

dle. (Slippery!)

Finally, turn right

(W) and climb the

mild grassy slopes

of Vranova glavi-

ca. The views are

really fascinating, especially the one of neighbouring Torna.

108

Additional note: The ascent of Vranova glavica can also be made

from the right side of the peak. When you pass the elevation point

1907, turn towards the south-west and locate 3 screes one next to

another. (See the 2nd

pic in the Montenegrin description.) Approach

them from the right and join the path running immediately above

them. This might be a better option too, because you avoid the

already mentioned height loss. It is also a bit shorter.

Vranova glavica

109

TORNA / Babin zub 2277 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – prevoj Semolj – Redice (Svrke).

Od raskrsnice Boan - Ţabljak do skretanja (lijevo) za selo Svrke je

24 km, a odatle do parkinga (u stvari, radi se o „raskrsnici“) ima još

oko 6 i po kilometara makadama.

Ili: Podgorica – Mioska – Dragovića polje – Svrke (desno).


Opis ture: Fotografija pokazuje Tornu (Babin zub) sa pristupnog

puta. Parkirajte na pomenutom proširenju/raskrsnici. Krenite lijevo,

uzbrdo putem i na prvoj krivini u desno viĊećete putokaz „Đedov

do“ na stijeni. Staza poĉinje desno od njega, iza ţbuna/drveta.

U poĉetku je jasna i obiljeţena crvenom bojom. Kad doĊete

do mjesta gdje skreće udesno i izlazi iz ţdrijela, pratite oznake (ko-

je ubrzo prestaju) i nastavite put direktno naviše – kratko kroz šu-

mu, pa siparom, izmeĊu litica. Stiţete do podnoţja sljedećeg sipara

ĉijom se ivicom, a na kraju i samim siparom, penjete do Đedovog

dola u kome se nalazi jedna oronula koliba koja (valjda) još uvijek

moţe posluţiti kao sklonište ako je potrebno. Kratko se odmorite, a

onda ponovo uzbrdo da bi se ukljuĉili u markiranu stazu iz Gornjeg

Lipova – ide preko dugog sipara i obilazi vrh sa desne strane. U

posljednjem dijelu (strmog) uspona morate biti paţljivi i ne smijete

110

ţuriti. Zanemarite oznake koje idu desno od vrha – to je zapravo

slijepi put (!?).

Ulaz u Đedov do / The entrance to Đedov do

Napomene: Ovo je svakako najteţa od svih tura koje se nalaze u

ovoj knjizi, a opi-

sana ruta je i naj-

kraća koja postoji.

Sama razlika u vi-

sini, od parkinga

do vrha, a zatim i

povremeno teţak

teren, upućuju na

to da je za Tornu

potrebno biti fizi-

ĉki, ali i mentalno

spreman. Ovaj vrh (po mom mišljenju) nije za velike, „turistiĉke“

grupe, ili poĉetnike.

Na karti je ucrtana i mogućnost uspona na, nešto niţi, prvi

vrh sa lijeve strane. Krećete iz Đedovog dola, u pravcu borova u

sredini posljednje fotografije na kraju opisa na engleskom i nastav-

ljate dalje prema istoku. Ukoliko smatrate da je opisana tura previše

naporna, opasna, ili ste samo u škripcu s vremenom, ovaj vrh je

sasvim pristojna zamjena za glavni.

111

TORNA / Babin zub 2277 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Boan – Krnja Jela – Semolj – Svrke.

The distance from Boan - Ţabljak junction to the (left)

turning to the village of Svrke is 24 km, and it is followed by ano-

ther 6.5 km of macadam to the parking which is actually a fork.

The other way to approach Torna is: Podgorica – Mioska –

Dragovića polje – Svrke (on the right).


Route description: The first picture in the description in Monte-

negrin shows the position of Torna (in the middle) viewed from the

accessing road. You can also see the “Stone gate” through which

you have to go on the way to Đedov do, a large cirque.

When you park the car, walk uphill, along the road, and at

the first turn to the right you will see the sign “Đedov do” written

on a rock. The trailhead is next to it, behind a “bush-tree”. At the

beginning the trail is clear and marked, but you need to abandon it

when it starts going to the right, out of the gorge. That place is also

marked and easily recognized. From there the waymarks stop. Now

climb directly upwards, first through the forest and then over scree.

(Do not move away from the cliff on the right.) In a shortwhile, you

will come to the foothill of another scree slope. Continue along its

112

rocky edge. Unfortunately, the path through the forest (if there ever

was one) is overgrown and cannot be used.

113

In the upper section of the slope the path becomes visible

and eventually enters Đedov do. There you will find a ruined hut

which could still be used as a shelter if necessary. Rest for a little

while and prepare yourself for the second part of the route: the

climb to the (marked) trail from Lipovo which traverses long scree

and leads to the summit. In the final, steep and slippery section of

the ascent concentration and discipline are of the utmost import-

ance. You mustn’t hurry, and do not follow the waymarks which go

right from the peak – it is a dead end. (!?) I am not sure what the

“author’s” intention was.

Additional notes: Torna is surely the hardest of all the tours in this

guide-book. The elevation difference (~1100 m) speaks for itself –

you should be physically and mentally fit. It is not recommended to

inexperienced people or larger (touristic) groups.

If you think that this

tour is too strenuous,

or even dangerous,

you should consider

climbing the 1st peak

from the left. It is 20

meters lower than the

main peak, but it is,

nevertheless, a quite

decent replacement.

Start the ascent from

Đedov do to the left,

and head for the pine

trees in the middle of

the photo. When you pass them from the left, you will soon enter a

ravine leading to the grassy slopes… (See the map.)

114

DURMITOR

Durmitor je, kako kaţu, „svijet za sebe“ i moţda većim dijelom ne

spada u planine centralne Crne Gore. U ovom vodiĉu je, u skladu sa

kartografskom podjelom, podijeljen na „Sjever“ i „Jug“. Tako se u

grupi „Sjever“ nalaze opisi uspona na tri vrha Šljemena, zatim na

Bandijernu, Šarene pasove i Prutaš. Bobotov kuk i Veliki MeĊed,

kao dva najpoznatija i (pored Savinog kuka) najposjećenija vrha do

kojih vode dobro utabane markirane staze, su samo „dotaknuti“ sa

par reĉenica i predstavljeni po jednom lijepom fotografijom.

Durmitor „Jug“ je zastupljen sa tri vrha: Ranisava, Sedlena

greda i Lojanik.

Bobotov kuk 2523m

Start je obiĉno sa prevoja Sedlo. Slijedi nešto opasniji dio pored

Uvite grede (2199), šetnja do Zubaca (2309), a zatim pad do Zele-

nog vira i onda dugi uspon do stjenovitog vrha. Ipak, mislim da je

staza od Urdenog dola (vidi opis za Šarene pasove) bolja varijanta.

Veliki Međed 2287m

Parkirate u selu Motiĉki gaj (6 kuća sa braon krovom, lijeva strana

puta od NK). Ulazite u stazu iza kuća sa zelenim krovom i pratite je

dok ne doĊete do markiranog puta Crno jez.-Savin kuk. Desno i na

prvom razdvajanju lijevo. Od prevoja Struga (1920) uspon zahtije-

va oprez. Izlazite na greben, a onda lijevo ka vrhu. (Sljedeća slika.)

115

DURMITOR

In this guide the Durmitor area is divided in two parts: “North” and

“South”. The former includes six peaks: Šljeme, Istočni vrh, Mi-

lošev tok (which all belong to the range of Šljeme), Bandijerna, Ša-

reni pasovi and Prutaš. Bobotov kuk and Veliki MeĊed, as the two

best known and (besides Savin kuk) most frequently climbed peaks

with their well-established and marked trails, are merely “touched”

with a couple of sentences.

Durmitor “South” is represented by the following peaks:

Ranisava, Sedlena greda, and Lojanik.

Bobotov kuk 2523m

Most people usually start this tour from the pass called Sedlo. The

trail leads to the unnamed pass left from Uvita greda (2199), goes

around Zupci (2309) and descends to Zeleni vir – the beginning of a

long climb to the rocky peak. However, I think that the trail from

Urdeni do (see the description of Šareni pasovi) is a better option.

Veliki Međed 2287m

Walk around Crno jezero to the left and follow the marked trail

heading south. At the junction behind the spring Toĉak go right.

From the pass known as Struga (1920) the ascent becomes rather

steep so be careful. Access the main peak along the ridge to the left.

116

DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Šljeme 2455 mnv

Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik –

Grabovica – Virak (put za

Trsa i Pluţine) – Stoţina.

Ili: Ţabljak – Virak

– Stoţina. Parking je sa li-

jeve strane puta par stotina

metara prije Stoţine.

Visinska razlika: oko 800 m (varijanta 1)

117

Opis ture: Zaobilazite brdo Vinjeve glavice (1758) postepeno do-

bijajući na visini, izlazite na prevoj i krećete preko, prvo travnatog,

pa kamenitog terena ka podnoţju srednjeg, najmanjeg od 3 grebena

koja vidite. Penjete greben sa desne strane i ulazite u jasnu stazu

koju kasnije, u posljednjem dijelu ture, napuštate jer ona ide dalje

ravno preko „strane“, a vi nastavljate uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu i

glavnom vrhu. Nakon odmora moţete preći na deset metara niţi

Istočni vrh (2445), spuštiti se prema Mlijeĉnom, a onda i Mekom

dolu i tako se vratiti na „poĉetni poloţaj“.

Druga, kraća, varijanta uspona na Šljeme poĉinje od konobe iznad

Valovitog jezera. Kad proĊete kroz Lomno ţdrijelo i uĊete u Veliki

Lomni do, krenite lijevo, popnite greben i njime moţete doći do

glavnog vrha. Ipak,

moţda je ljepše da

na prevoju produ-

ţite prema zapadu i

prvo posjetite Mi-

lošev tok (2426), a

zatim se vratite do

Miloševe lokve, lo-

giĉno pratite teren

do velike vrtaĉe (u

kojoj uvijek ima snijega) i tako doĊete do glavnog vrha.

* Za ostatak puta do Miloševog toka i nazad ka Šljemenu

vidi kartu za Bandijernu.

118

DURMITOR “North” – Šljeme 2454 m

Season: May-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak (The road to Trsa and

Pluţine.) – Stoţina

Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina. The parking place is on the

left side of the road, a few hundred meters before Stoţina.

Elevation difference: about 800 m (option 1)

Šljeme (2455) from Milošev tok (2426) / Šljeme od Miloševog toka

Route description: Cross the road and walk around Vinjeve glav-

ice (the hills on the right). After the pass, the terrain opens and you

will see 3 huge ridges. Head for the one in the middle over grassy

meadows of Meki do. Begin the ascent of the ridge from its right

side and enter the conspicuous path coming from the neighbouring

ridge. When it starts traversing the slope to the west, leave it and

continue uphill (NW) towards the main peak of Šljeme. On the way

down you can visit Istočni vrh (East peak, 2445), descend to Mli-

jeĉni do, and eventually join the original trail (S).

The other, shorter ascent route starts from the restaurant (?)

above Valovito jezero. Once you go through Lomno ţdrijelo and

enter the cirque of Veliki Lomni do, you will have two options, but

my advice is to go left, climb the ridge, and use it as a direct way to

119

the main peak. In order to make this tour even more attractive you

could do the following: when you reach the point where the two

ridges meet, do not continue uphill but go towards the west, in the

direction of Milošev tok (2426), a fine peak which offers a good

view of western Durmitor. Then return to Miloševa lokva (Miloš’s

pond) and just follow the ridge leading to a deep depression below

Šljeme. There is always snow in it. (See the previous picture.)

Milošev tok from Šljeme / Milošev tok sa Šljemena

* The “missing” part of the route to Milošev tok is given on

the map of Bandijerna.

Istoĉni vrh from Šljeme / Istoĉni vrh sa Šljemena

120

DURMITOR „Jug“ – Ranisava 2084 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak – Stoţina

Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina. Parking je na lijevoj strani

puta, kao i za Šljeme 1.


Opis ture: Spuštate se prema Suvoj lokvi koja je od sredine jula

(zavisno od godine) obiĉno zaista takva. Njenom obalom stiţete do

jasne staze koja ide preko travnatog prevoja MeĊugorje. Kad zavr-

šite uspon napuštate stazu i krećete prema zapadu i velikom „lomu“

ispod tzv. „Sulundara“. Prelazite ga i polako se zatravljenim sipar-

om ukoso penjete ka stijenama lijevo, nalazite prolaz i idete desno

do sljedećeg prolaza. Zatim nailazite na dva kratka, ali nezgodna

travnata dijela i nastavljate dalje priliĉno strmom i uskom padinom.

(Trava i sipar!) Na kraju, do

cilja imate još oko par stoti-

na metara u pravcu Sedlene

grede, dominantnog vrha na

zapadu, 2227 m. Sa vrha se

vraćate istim putem, a zatim

od Suve lokve idete ponovo

u pravcu Sedlene grede i na-

kon 10-15 minuta stiţete do

Modrog jezera. Naravno, tu

moţete odmoriti i ruĉati, ili

samo uţivati u prizoru.

Napomena: Pri silasku biti paţljiv i nikuda ne ţuriti. Staza koja je

opisana je i jedina (sa sjeveroistoĉne strane planine) koja relativno

bezbjedno vodi do glavnog vrha. Bilo bi dobro imati šlem na glavi.

Druga varijanta za uspon je moguća sa jugoistoka (kota

1938), ali mi se ĉini da tuda samo divokoze prolaze. Naime, iznad

pominjanog Sulundara se (sa juţne strane) nalazi neobezbijeĊeni

stjenoviti zid kojim se moţe doći do grebena glavnog vrha.

* Karta je iza opisa za Sedlenu gredu.

121

DURMITOR “South” – Ranisava 2084 m

Season: June-October

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Grabovica – Virak – Stoţina

Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina

This is certainly one of the most striking parts of Monte-

negro. Ranisava is easily recognised by its craggy, pointed peaks.

The parking place is the same as for Šljeme 1.


Route description: Go down to Suva lokva (Dry pond) which is

usually really dry from the middle of July. Walk along its right

shore and climb the grassy saddle behind it (MeĊugorje). When you

finish the ascent, leave the trail and head west. Pass the elevation

point 1847 and cross the talus at the foothill (below the Chimney).

Climb to the passage(s) as shown in the small photo in the descript-

ion in Montenegrin and turn left (the only possible way). Traverse

the two short but exposed grassy sections and then continue up-

wards scrambling the steep and narrow slope – mixed grass and

scree! Finally, follow the ridge in the direction of Sedlena greda

(2227 m), the dominant peak to the west, and you will be at the

summit in a few minutes.

Descend the same way and from Suva lokva turn left (W).

About 15 minutes later, you will reach the shore of Modro jezero.

Of course, you can have lunch there, rest, or simply enjoy the sight.

122

Additional notes: While descending be careful and do not hurry.

The described route is also the only one which (safely) leads to the

summit from the north-east face of the mountain.

Ranisava from Sedlena greda / Ranisava sa Sedlene grede

There is yet another possible way to climb Ranisava (from

the south-east, the elevation point 1938), but it is not recommended.

Namely, this “trail” is only used by mountain goats and in order to

reach the main peak of Ranisava you have to traverse the vertical

rocky wall which “crowns” the Chimney and joins the two parts of

the mountain.

* The map is at the end of the description of Sedlena greda.

123

DURMITOR „Jug“ – Sedlena greda 2227 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Sedlo

Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Sedlo


Opis ture: Parkirati na prevoju Sedlo (1908). Uspon poĉinje sa juţ-

ne (lijeve) strane puta i odmah ćete ugledati markaciju koja, iz ne-

kog razloga, nije uvijek u skladu sa već postojećom stazom. Pošto

markirana ruta nije i najbolja, moj predlog je sljedeći: u trenutku

kad doĊete do mjesta na kom staza ide ravno preko strane (prema

jugoistoku, Čiste strane), a oznake pokazuju naglo uzbrdo – zane-

marite ih i pratite put. Tako ćete izbjeći jedno nepotrebno penjanje i

lako zaobići kotu 2148. Nastavljate dalje prema jugozapadu i stiţete

na stjenoviti, ali kršljivi dio nakon koga ulazite u jasnu stazu koja

preko izuzetno strme travnate padine vodi ka vrhu. Prostor na vrhu

je uzak i nije pogodan za veće grupe.

Napomena: Sedlena greda je zaista atraktivna planina i pogled je

izuzetan, ali se uspon ipak ne preporuĉuje ljudima koji se plaše

visine, ili kretanja po vrlo strmom terenu. Dodatan problem nekome

mogu predstavljati i brojni bumbari u opasnijem, posljednjem dijelu

uspona, ali vam oni neće smetati ukoliko ih puštite da na miru rade

svoj posao. I, napokon, tokom sušnog perioda trava na vrhu je krta i

moţe biti klizava.

124

DURMITOR “South” – Sedlena greda 2227 m


Access: Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo. Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Sedlo.


Sedlena greda from Ranisava / Sedlena greda sa Ranisave

Route description: Leave the car at the

parking, at the pass

Sedlo. The trailhead

is next to the road

(S) and you will im-

mediately notice the

waymarks, but bear

in mind that they

are not always con-

sistent with the existing path. Once you find it, my suggestion is to

follow the path all the time. When it starts going south-east (Čiste

strane), ignore the waymarks and simply walk around the elevation

point 2148 without unnecessary climbing. After that, head south-

west and uphill. In the last part of the ascent you will have to cross

a short rocky section, go to the other side of the ridge, and finally

enter the conspicuous path which traverses the south, very steep

and grassy face of the mountain.

125

Additional notes: Sedlena greda is a very attractive mountain and

the views are extraordinary, but it is not recommended to people

who are afraid of height or walking over steep terrain. Some people

can also be intimidated by numerous bumble-bees which are often

found at the more dangerous, final part of the ascent. However, they

will not bother you if you just let them do their job. And finally,

during a dry spell the grass can be very slippery.

Sedlena greda & Ranisava

126

DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Bandijerna 2409 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo

Ili: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo


Opis ture: Osta-

vljate automobil

na prevoju Sedlo

(1908) i krećete

na sjever prema

prolazu lijevo od

vrha Uvita greda

(2199) – stazom

koja takoĊe vodi

i do Bobotovog

kuka. Dio puta iza sipara je malo opasniji pa je potrebno biti paţljiv

i ne ţuriti. Nakon prolaza ćete na desnoj strani primijetiti vertikalne

litice vrha Milošev tok i Bandijernu u njegovom produţetku. Oba

vrha su dio opisanog lanca Šljeme. (Na slici u opisu na engleskom

jeziku Bandijerna je u sredini i izgleda mnogo niţa.)

Slijedite bilo koji od 2 kraka staze sve dok ne siĊete u Suve ta-

vane (na karti to je prije Surutke), a onda siparom ukosite u pravcu

Trojnog prevoja, travnatog prelaza izmeĊu Bandijerne i niza oštrih

stjenovitih vrhova (Zupci, 2309). Na prevoju idete desno, ulazite u

127

„stazu“ i poĉinjete završni uspon do vrha. (Trava i sipar!)

Napomena: Ako ţelite da produţite turu, ili izbjegnete onaj eks-

ponirani dio pored Uvite grede, na karti vidite još jednu varijantu

puta do Bandijerne (ili ĉak do Bobotovog kuka). Umjesto na sjever,

moţete se uputiti prema prolazu izmeĊu Vjetrenih brda, zatim pra-

titi pruţanje planine prema istoku, preći stazu za Bobotov kuk, izaći

na Trojni prevoj i paţljivo odraditi ostatak uspona.

Na karti je takoĊe ucrtan i jedan, vjerovatno najkraći pravac

uspona na Minin bogaz (2387).

Bandijerna & Milošev tok

128

DURMITOR “North” – Bandijerna 2409 m


Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo

Or: Ţabljak – Virak – Stoţina – Sedlo


Route description: Park the car at Sedlo (1908 m) and head north

towards the pass left from Uvita greda (2199). This is also one of

the routes to Bobotov kuk. The section after scree is exposed and

requires increased concentration. After the pass the trail levels and

you will immediately notice the magnificent vertical cliffs of Mi-

lošev tok and Bandijerna ahead. (In the picture above the latter is in

the middle and seems much lower.) Follow either of the tracks,

because they both descend to Suvi tavani. (On the map: the flatter

terrain before Surutka.) Now leave the trail and diagonally climb

the scree slope in the direction of Trojni prevoj, the grassy pass

between Bandijerna and a string of pointed rocky peaks (Zupci,

2309). When you get there, the peak is on the right. *Climb with

caution: mixed scree and grass!

Additional note: In order to avoid the exposed section left from

Uvita greda, you can walk towards the pass which divides Vjetrena

brda, head east (follow the line of the mountain), cross the trail to

Bobotov kuk, climb Trojni prevoj, and finish the ascent.

129

DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Šareni pasovi 2248 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – znak: Škrĉka jezera/Kamp Škrka

Ili: Ţabljak – Sedlo – znak: Škrĉka jez./Kamp Škrka


Opis ture: Parkirati na nekom od proširenja. Markirana staza poĉi-

nje odmah pored puta (S) i obilazi Urdeni do. Pratiti je sve dok, iza

prevoja, na lijevoj strani ne ugledate dug sipar i neobiĉne stjenovite

linije, odnosno naslage. Dalji dio rute je nemarkiran.

Krenite prema siparu i njegovim obodom ćete doći do prolaza i za-

nimljive prirodne staze koja vodi do (ne baš lagane) travnate padine

130

na ĉijim krajevima se nalaze dva vrha. Moţete prvo izaći na Štit

(2236), a onda se grebenom uputiti ka glavnom vrhu i uţivati u po-

gledu na Škrĉko jezero i Prutaš (2393), ili obratno. Ova druga vari-

janta je moţda i bolja, jer je desni vrh vrlo nezgodan. Moguće ga je

popeti, ako se zaobiĊe sa desne strane, ali to je zaista nepotrebna

avantura.

Napomena: Na prvoj slici Štit je lijevo, a desno (u daljini) je Đevo-

jka (Soa) koja se nalazi ispred Bobotovog kuka. Kao što je već po-

menuto, opisana ruta (do odvajanja) je zapravo put do ovog drugog

vrha. Ako ništa drugo, ova varijanta je kraća od one sa Sedla.

131

DURMITOR “North” – Šareni pasovi 2248 m


Access: NK – Virak – Sedlo – the sign: Škrĉka jezera/Kamp Škrka

Or: Ţabljak – Sedlo – the sign: Škrĉka jez./Kamp Škrka


Route description: Park at a widening. Follow the waymarks on

the right (N). * The trail goes around Urdeni do and on to the pass

between Šareni pasovi (left) and Vjetrena brda (right). After climb-

ing the pass, follow the same path until you see the unusual curvy

patterns above the scree

slope on the left. Now

head for the edge of the

slope and after a short

scramble you will reach

the passage leading to

the (steep) grassy slope

and 2 peaks at its ends.

You will probably be inclined to visit the lower one (Štit, 2236)

first and then walk along the ridge towards the other, but this might

not be a good idea, because attempting to climb the main peak is a

risky undertaking. The view of Škrka & the lake is wonderful even

from the ridge.

* This is also the already mentioned, shorter way to Bobotov kuk.

132

DURMITOR „Jug“ – Lojanik 2091 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar (Preporuĉuje se jesen.)

Prilaz: Nikšić – Sedlo – Vodeni do. Ili: Ţabljak – Vodeni do.


Opis ture: ProĊite skoro cijeli Lojanik i parkirajte na proširenju na

lijevoj strani puta, odmah iza oštre krivine u desno 300 m prije Vo-

dnog dola. Krenite prema uskom, travnatom „prolazu“ i izaĊite na

greben. (Vidi 2. fotografiju, opis na engl.) Na njemu ćete primijetiti

prvu od ukupno tri piramide/gomile kamenja na Lojaniku. Ona nije

postavljena na samom vrhu grebena, ali vam ipak, ako je zapamtite,

moţe dobro posluţiti kao orjentir za silazak. Odatle idete dalje (JI),

uglavnom grebenom, preko teškog, kamenitog, davno spaljenog te-

rena. Vrh na kome ugledate sljedeću piramidu nije glavni i moţete

ga zaobići sa desne strane. „Staza“ je većim dijelom oĉišćena od

ostataka izgorelih grana, a u zadnjem, lakšem dijelu i prosjeĉena

kroz borove kleke – nema potrebe za probijanjem!

Treća piramida oznaĉava drugi prolaz izmeĊu kleka (kad

naiĊete na zeleni „zid“ idete lijevo) prije prelaza ka glavnom vrhu.

133

DURMITOR “South” – Lojanik 2091 m


Access: Nikšić – Sedlo – Vodeni do. Or: Ţabljak – Vodeni do.


Route description: Drive along the road towards the further end of

Mt Lojanik (See the picture above.) and leave the car in the widen-

ing on the left side of the road, immediately after the sharp curve to

the right, about 300 meters before Vodeni do. As you come closer

to the parking place you will notice the narrow grassy passage

between two rocky hills covered with dwarf pines.

That is the

beginning of the

only real ascent

in this little tour.

Follow a visible

path to the ridge.

There used to be

a small cairn at

its top. (I do not

know what the

constructor’s original intention was, but you may still find it useful

on your way back, because it “shows” the place where the trail goes

down to the starting point.) When you climb the ridge, continue to-

wards the main peak over rugged terrain. The trail is unmarked, or

to be honest, almost non-existent. However, a couple of years ago it

134

was cleared from half-burnt branches and also cut through the pine

wood in its final, easier section.

On your way to

the summit you

will see two mo-

re cairns: one at

the top of a peak

in the middle of

the mountain (?),

and the other in

the large dwarf-

pine area before

crossing over to the main peak. This last cairn is also the only one

which has a real purpose – when you find yourself standing in front

of an impenetrable “green wall”, do not give up, just follow its edge

to the left and in a minute or two you will come across the pile of

stones showing the way through.

Lojanik, uspon / Lojanik, the ascent

135

DURMITOR „Sjever“ – Prutaš 2393 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: a) Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – Vodeni do; b) Nikšić – Pluţine

– Trsa – Todorov do, ili Vodeni do; c) Ţabljak – Sedlo – Vodeni do


Opis ture: Prutaš se moţe peti iz pravca Todorovog dola, od Pri-

jespe, od izvora Šarban... Ipak, ĉini se da je varijanta od Vodenog

dola najelegantnija, najlakša za opis, a i uklapa se u onaj vremenski

okvir od oko dva sata hoda u jednom pravcu. Dakle, iza spomenika

na desnoj strani puta (malo prije Vodnog dola) poĉinje staza prema

Škrĉkom ţdrijelu (SI). Kad izaĊete na taj prelaz, birate lijevi krak –

desni se spušta

ka Škrĉkim je-

zerima (slika je

u opisu za Šar-

ene pasove) – i

grebenom do-

lazite do vrha.

U posljednjem

dijelu ove ture

malo više paţ-

nje nije na odmet, a osim direktnog, postoji i zaobilazni pravac za

završni uspon sa sjeveroistoĉne strane vrha.

136

DURMITOR “North” – Prutaš 2393 m


Access: a) Nikšić – Virak – Sedlo – Vodeni do; b) Nikšić – Pluţine

– Trsa – Todorov do, or Vodeni do

Or: Ţabljak – Sedlo – Vodeni do


137

Prutaš from the west / Prutaš sa zapada

Route description: Prutaš can be climbed from several directions:

Todorov do, Prijespa, the spring Šarban… Still, the most “elegant”

option, which also nicely fits our usual time-frame of a two-hour-

long climb, seems to be the following: Leave the car in the parking

“lot” close to the memorial stone(s) before Vodeni do and follow

the trail to Škrĉko ţdrijelo (NE). When you climb the pass, choose

the left track (the right one leads to Škrka and Škrĉka jezera – see

the picture in the description of Šareni pasovi), enjoy an easy walk

along the ridge, and take your time while ascending the summit.

Prutaš from Ruţica (SW) / Prutaš sa Ruţice (JZ)

138

PIVSKA PLANINA – Ruţica 2141 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar

Prilaz: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Sedlo – Prijespa

Ili: Ţabljak – Sedlo – Prijespa. ProĊite Lojanik i Vodeni do

i doĊite do mjesta gdje se odvaja put za katun Boban i Buruĉkovac.


Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate na poĉetku makadama. Ima mje-

sta za par vozila. Upućujete se „stranom“ prema siparu i širokom

prolazu izmeĊu Šupljike (2063) na desnoj i Bijelog koma (2034) na

lijevoj strani. Staze su još vidljive. Birate gornju i ĉim uĊete u pro-

laz (Zagulj) poĉinjete uspon krećući se što bliţe gredama na desnoj

strani. (Na trećoj fotografiji, slikanoj sa istoka, prikazan je upravo

taj dio planine. Tokom penjanja glavni vrh ne vidite, iako je stalno

ispred vas.) Neposredno prije vrha slijedi mali pad, a onda završni,

nešto strmiji uspon travnatim dijelom padine. (Ukupno oko 1h.)

Teren je „grdan“, ali je pogled na okolne planine odliĉan.

139

PIVSKA PLANINA* – Ruţica 2141 m

Season: June-October [*planina = mountain]

Access: Nikšić – Šavnik – Virak – Sedlo – Prijespa

Or: Ţabljak – Sedlo – Prijespa. Drive past Mt Lojanik and

get to the place where a macadam road branches off to the left.


Route description: Park the car at the junction (the diversion to the

katun Boban and Buruĉkovac). Head for the scree slope on the right

and then enter Zagulj, the wide passage (cirque) between Šupljika

(2063) and Bijeli kom (2034). The trails are still visible. Choose the

upper one. Once you get to the passage, you will have at least two

options, but it is

(definitely) better

to keep closer to

the rough mass of

rock on the right.

The summit will

be in front of you

all the time even

though you don’t

see it. The photo

on the next page shows a large part of the mountain. It was taken

from the south – Bijeli kom (2034).

140

Immediately before the peak the trail drops a bit, and then comes

the final part of the ascent along the grassy section of the slope.

Ruţica sa Bijelog koma / Ruţica from Bijeli kom

The terrain is a bit difficult and not that pretty to look at,

but the views of the surrounding mountains are excellent, especially

in June or autumn.

Glavni vrh Ruţice (Uspon od Prijespe)

The main peak of Ruţica (Ascent option from Prijespa)

141

TRESKAVAC – Buručkovac 2094 mnv

Period: jun-oktobar (Izbjeći vruće dane!)

Prilaz: Kao i za Ruţicu.

Visinska razlika: nešto više od 400 m

Opis ture: Ako ne posjedujete dobar terenski automobil, parkirajte

na poĉetku makadamskog puta i krenite njime, ili stazom prema

142

jugu – ka izvoru i lokvi ispred katuna Boban. Ipak, bilo bi dobro da

se dovezete do lokve, jer većini ljudi ta dodatna 2 km na povratku

teţe padnu nego, na primjer, cijeli put do Treskavca (oko 5-6 km).

Vrh Buruĉkovac se nalazi jugozapadno od katuna i do podnoţja je

moguće doći bez većih oscilacija u visini. Kao što vidite na fotogra-

fijama, pristup planini i pravac završnog uspona su sasvim jasni.

Penjete se grebenom do usamljenog drveta i dalje slijedite „ovĉiju“

stazu. Pogled na cijeli masiv Durmitora je izuzetan.

Napomena: Do Buruĉkovca se moţe doći i iz pravca Pive: Nkšić –

Rudinice – Gagovića most – Bezuje; i preko Šavnika: Nikšić – Ša-

vnik – Duţi – Dubrovsko. Ove ture su malo duţe, ali zato na putu

do vrha moţete viĊeti (i proći) pravi prirodni tunel kroz planinu.

143

TRESKAVAC – Buručkovac 2094 m


Access: The same as for Ruţica.


Route description: If you do not have an all-terrain vehicle, from

the junction head south, towards the spring (?) and the pond before

the katun called Boban. However, if you do not want to walk those

2 km uphill at the end of the tour, drive all the way to the pond and

park at the widening on the right. Buruĉkovac is south-west from

there and, as you see in the pictures, the approach to the mountain

is very clear and easy. The foothill, or to be precise, the beginning

of the ridge, can be reached without a significant height loss.

The views are wonderful, particularly towards the north-

east – the Durmitor area.

Additional notes: Buruĉkovac can also be approached from Piva:

Nikšić – Javorak – Rudinice – Gagovića most [most = bridge] –

Bezuje; and Šavnik: Nikšić – Šavnik – Duţi – Dubrovsko. These

routes are a bit longer (particularly the one from Šavnik), but on the

way to the top you can see (walk through) a natural tunnel going

through the ridge of the mountain.

The recommended months for this tour are September and

October (to avoid the hot weather).

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DODATAK: Izvor Morače, Vragodo

Period: maj-poĉetak juna

Prilaz: Nikšić – Boan – Dragovića polje – Bojići – Ljevišta

Ili: Podgorica – Mioska – Dragovića polje – Ljevišta

(1: 50 00)

U Dragovića polju skrećete desno (Iz Podgorice: lijevo!),

pa preko mosta putem koji je asfaltni, ali uzak i u poĉetku sa vrlo

velikim usponom. Nakon nekoliko kilometara ovaj put prelazi u loš

(ali srećom ne toliko dug) makadam. Kad uĊete u zaselak Telaĉ do

prolazite školu (velika zgrada na lijevoj strani puta) i vozite obalom

Moraĉe. Automobil moţete parkirati kod drvenog mosta.


Opis ture: Staza poĉinje od mosta i vodi vas ulijevo, malo dalje od

rijeke, ali paralelno sa njom. Ubrzo dolazite do sipara koji prelazite

145

i ulazite u jaku stazu kojom se dalje krećete kroz šumu. Neka vas ne

brine što više ne vidite i ne ĉujete rijeku, samo nastavite uzbrdo.

Kad je ponovo ĉujete znaćete da ste blizu ulaza u Vragodo. Izlazite

iz šume i obavezno pravite kratak odmor pored malog i izuzetno

lijepog sezonskog jezera. Zatim produţavate dalje (JZ-Z). Kako se

primiĉete starom katunu na brijegu, huk vodopada na lijevoj strani

postaje sve jaĉi...

Varijanta 2: Ako posjedujete terensko vozilo, do Vragodola moţete

doći i od starog puta Nikšić-Šavnik, vozeći kroz Krnovo polje (vidi

opise za Gackove grede i Trpezariju) i dalje prema jugozapadu, sve

do Ivan-begovog katuna u podnoţju Krutaša – kraj puta, 13 km .

Lijevo od katuna (SZ) imate dobru stazu koja će vas „prebaciti“

preko planinskog vijenca Trpezarija - Kapa moraĉka, a zatim i

spuštiti do Vragodola (I-JI, ~ 4.5 km).

146

APPENDIX: The source of the river Morača, Vragodo

Season: May-the beginning of June

Access: Nikšić – Boan – Dragovića polje – Bojići – Ljevišta

Or: Podgorica – Mioska – Dragovića polje – Ljevišta

In Dragovića polje turn right (From Podgorica: left!), cross

the bridge, and follow the asphalt road which is very narrow and

rather steep. After a few kilometres this road turns into (fortunately,

not so long) macadam. When you get to the hamlet Telaĉ do, pass

the school (the large house-like building on the left) and drive along

the river bank. Park the car near the wooden bridge.


Route description: The trail will take you to the left, a little off the

river, but parallel with it. Cross the talus slope and enter the trail

going uphill through the forest. You will not see or hear the river

for a while, but when you do hear it again, you will know that you

are getting closer to Vragodo (Devil’s valley). You can rest at the

shore of a small seasonal lake and then proceed towards the west.

There is a katun on the hill and from there you will be able to see

and hear a beautiful waterfall coming out of the cliff – your final

destination for the day.

The scenery and atmosphere are, as they say, unreal.

147

Fotografije: Ruţica Stanković

Option 2:

If you own a good all-terrain vehicle, you can also reach Vragodo

by driving through Krnovo polje (see the description of Gackove

grede) and, instead of turning to Štirni do (Trpezarija, pg 29/31),

proceed all the way to Ivan-begov katun at the foothils of Krutaš –

the end of the road, 13 km. There is a trail going over the mountain

range Trpezarija - Kapa moraĉka (NW, left from the katun) and

than leading down to Vragodo (E-SE, ~ 4.5 km).

148

Bilješka o autoru

Ţeljko (Brankov i Vinkin) Musović je roĊen u Nikšiću,

1965. godine. Školovao se u Nikšiću i Sarajevu. Završio filozofski

fakultet, odsjek Anglistika. Vodiĉ Planine Centralne Crne Gore je

njegova peta objavljena knjiga.

Ţivi i radi u Nikšiću.

www.Smashwords.com/profile/view/ZeljkoMussovich

e-mail: [email protected]

http://www.smashwords.com/profile/view/ZeljkoMussovich

mailto:[email protected]

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SADRŢAJ / CONTENTS:

Uvod / Preface ...... 5, 7

Prekornica, Kula ...... 9, 11

Vojnik

Vojnik ...... 14, 16

Gradni vrh, Mramorje ...... 18, 19

Ĉetiri manja vrha / Four lower peaks ...... 21, 23

Gackove grede ...... 25, 27

(Ostrvica)

Trpezarija ...... 29, 31

Lola

V. Zebalac ...... 32, 34

Lijevno ...... 36, 37

Borovnik ...... 39, 40

Mali i Veliki Ţurim ...... 42, 43

Ilijin vrh, Nikolin vrh ...... 45, 46

(Ćetkov vrh)

Stoţac

Stoţac ...... 48, 49

Bodiguz ...... 50, 51

Kapa Moračka

Krutaš ...... 53, 54

Lastva, Štit ...... 56, 58

Zagradac ...... 60, 62

Vojinovac ...... 63, 64

Staračka gradina ...... 66, 67

Lukanje čelo ...... 68, 79

Tali ...... 71, 72

Maganik

Petrov vrh/Kurozeb ...... 73, 75

MeĊeĊi vrh ...... 77, 79

RogoĊed ...... 82, 84

Boţurni vrh ...... 86, 88

Sinjajevina

Korman ...... 89, 91

150

Babin vrh ...... 93, 95

Veliki Pećarac ...... 96, 98

V. Starac ...... 99, 100

Jablanov vrh ...... 102, 103

Gradište

Vranova glavica ...... 105, 106

Torna / Babin zub ...... 108, 110

Durmitor „Sjever“

Šljeme ...... 115, 117

Bandijerna ...... 125, 127

Šareni pasovi ...... 128, 130

Prutaš ...... 134, 135

Durmitor „Jug“

Ranisava ...... 119, 120

Sedlena greda ...... 122, 123

Lojanik ...... 131, 132

Pivska planina

Ruţica ...... 137, 138

Treskavac

Buruĉkovac ...... 140, 142

Dodatak: / Appendix:

Izvor Morače, Vragodo ...... 143, 145

the mountains of central montenegro

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