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The International Field Archery Association

Level One Field Archery Instructors Basic Guide

Produced by The International Field Archery Association

Field Archery The Family Sport

WWW.ifaa-archery.org

http://www.ifaa-archery.org/

IFAA INSTRUCTION MANUAL

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The following Basic Field Archery Instructors manual provides general guidelines and that local regulation may prevail in each member nation. IFAA accepts no responsibility or liability of any damage or injury to property or people in the application of this Guide/manual.

Welcome to Field Archery This is the first step in enjoying the many facets of this great sport. Your archer may choose to be involved in

• Field Archery • Indoor Archery • Competition & Travel • Hunting • Or just the social side of this great sport

Out of this your archer will almost certainly achieve pleasure, relaxation, friendship and fitness. We hope that this will be the beginning of a long and enjoyable relationship with the sport of archery in its many forms, so it is up to you as the Instructor to help this to happen.

This book will help give your archer an insight into what field archery is all about from the basic structure of an archery club to the basic skills required to enjoy this sport. This course will teach you to be a safe and effective basic instructor. You will also learn how to run a safe program, how to select and maintain proper program equipment, and how to teach beginning archers in a Club setting.


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Contents

Chapter 1 – Clubs • Structure • Ranges • Facilities

Chapter 2 – Archery Rounds • IFAA Field and Hunter Rounds • IFAA Animal Round • IFAA 3D Rounds • IFAA Indoor Rounds

Chapter 3 – Safety • Personal Safety • Range Safety • Equipment Safety • Warm-up and Injury Prevention

Chapter 4 – Bows • Compound Bow • Recurve Bow • Longbow • Historical Bow

Chapter 5 – Choosing a bow • Eye Dominance • Draw Length • Bow Poundage • Buying Equipment

Chapter 6 – Other Equipment • Arrows • Arrow rests • Finger Tabs and gloves • Armguards • Quivers • Chest Guards • Sights • Peep Sights • Stabilisers • Release Aids • Fletching Jigs

Chapter 7 – Basic Steps • Stance and Posture • Nocking the Arrow • Hook up • Bow Hand • Pre-draw • Drawing Bow • Anchor • Holding & Aiming • Release • Follow through


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Chapter 8 – Communication

Chapter 9 – IFAA Shooting Styles

Chapter 10 – Competency

Chapter 11 – Running programs in School or recreational setting

Chapter 12 – Instructing Children in Field Archery

Chapter 13 – Instructing Women in Field Archery

Chapter 14 – Instructing Archers with Disabilities and Elderly Archers

Chapter 15 – Inspectors’ code of conduct

Chapter 16 – Maintaining records

• Competency Forms

• Log Books

Chapter 17 – Equipment Checks

• IFAA shooting styles

Chapter 18 – Public Safety

Appendix A – Exercise to teach the archer how to Gap Shoot

Appendix B – Stretching Exercises

Appendix C – New Archer Equipment Check Off

Appendix D – New Archer Competency Check Off

Appendix E – Log Book Example

Appendix F – Glossary of Archery Terms

Annexure 1 – Selecting a compound bow

Annexure 2 – Discussing draw length

Annexure 3 – Eye dominance conflicts

Annexure 4 – Selecting a bow sight

Annexure 5 – Selecting an arrow rest

Annexure 6 – Discussing bow strings

Annexure 7 – Understanding the IBO Speed Phenomenon


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The International Field Archery Association The International Field Archery Association (IFAA) was formed to provide a basic plan by which one national field archery association from each nation of the world may become a member of this Association. The aim of IFAA is to promote and develop field archery and any other archery sports and events the Association may adopt, throughout the world. IFAA was formed to develop and promote competition between international and national associations. The national associations that are affiliated with IFAA are autonomous and often provide more competitive games. Each national association set up and club situation is also autonomous and individual.

Chapter 1

Clubs

Club Structure: The International Field Archery Association (IFAA) has many member associations throughout the world. These member associations are autonomous and their club and member structure is guided by their rules. The set-up of their ranges may differ from club to club and must comply with the rules of their association to allow for national tournaments and the rules set out by the IFAA to allow hosting International events.

The clubs are not directly associated with IFAA so access for the clubs and their members must be done through the National Association within the country they are in. The differences in demographics and the types of archery the club members in general want, guides how each club is set up and what sorts of ranges they provide for their members.

In IFAA we have various Rounds on which competitions are based. The most popular rounds are: - Field Round - Hunter Round - Animal Round - 3D Animal Round - Indoor Round

Some clubs have ranges catering to all of these Rounds but many clubs are restricted to one or two ranges that cater for all these rounds. Clubs may also have the use of Indoor facilities to host Indoor competitions and use these facilities for coaching and new archer introduction. Club Ranges: Clubs should have a practice area set up to practice prior to shooting on the Field ranges. These practice areas or “Practice Butts” are normally used by the club members to practice prior to and after a shoot but often also to teach new archers the basics of the sport before venturing onto the Field Range. Generally Field ranges are set up to specifications provided in the IFAA Rule books. Safety is the main priority in setting up a range. Each club uses the natural environment they have to set their ranges. Some have very challenging shots which test the archer’s ability to judge distances and/or execute the shot, or terrain which makes even a measured distance challenging to shoot. Club Facilities: Most clubs have a Club house and the necessary toilet facilities. Many clubs also have showering facilities used when the club hosts invitational shoots consisting of two or more days.


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Chapter 2

The IFAA Archery Rounds

Within Field archery we have many different rounds or games we can shoot. These are described below. The IFAA Field and Hunter Round

These are two of the official IFAA rounds where the arrows are shot at round paper targets either white circles on a black background or black circles on a white background. These targets are set out on a walking track with markers or pegs to indicate where the archer is to stand when shooting. Some of the targets are shot form a single shooting position, while on other targets the archer walks to a different position after each arrow, either forward (called a “walk-up”) or sideward (called a “fan”). There are separate markers for Adults (17 years and over), juniors (13 to 16 years) and cubs (up to 12 years). These two rounds are shot over 14 targets to achieve a total score out of 280. The archer shoots four arrows at each target with a possible total score of 20 points for each target. These two rounds are the only rounds which an archer can be graded for IFAA sanctioned tournaments. In competitions these rounds are either shot twice or extended to 28 targets on a single range. Such event may be shot all at one time without a break but some clubs do opt for a short lunch break so the archers shoot 14 targets, have lunch and then continue to shoot the second lot of 14 targets The IFAA Animal Round

Like the Field and Hunter round, the IFAA animal round is shot over fourteen targets. The archer has the opportunity to shoot up to three arrows at the target to score points. If the first arrow does not score then a second arrow can be shot and if that does not score then the third arrow may be shot. Like the Hunter and Field Round, some targets are shot from a single position while other targets are shot with every arrow from a different position (“walk-up”)

Field Target Hunter Target


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The IFAA 3D Rounds 3D targets are free standing animal targets that are made of various types of rubber compound. They are set out in a similar way to the IFAA paper target round. The targets are placed at varying distances with or without natural or manmade catching areas behind the targets. The IFAA 3D round is shot in several different ways with unmarked distances and either one or two arrow scoring. The Indoor Rounds There are two types of Indoor Rounds shot in IFAA, the more common IFAA Indoor Round and the less common Flint Indoor Round. The IFAA Indoor Round is shot from 20 yards for adults and juniors, and ten yards for cubs The full Indoor Standard Unit is shot over 6 ends of 5 arrows per end (30 arrows). This must be done twice to give a total number of 60 arrows. The target has five scoring rings and is scored from the centre 5, 4, 3, 2, 1. Each arrow shot is scored giving a total score out of 300. The Flint Indoor Round is shot over seven ends of four arrows per end over seven different distances that vary from 20 feet to 30 yards. Two rounds are normally shot in a competition.

Typical Animal paper target face Typical 3D Target


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Chapter 3

Safety The first key element that we need to introduce immediately to our archers is Safety. They must obey all the archery range rules and procedures. Personal Safety (“Think and live safety”) Make sure your archer is wearing safe, comfortable clothing for your sport. Shirts and jackets should be

close fitting and not baggy so as not to interfere with the bow string. Your archer should have good firm and comfortable enclosed shoes / boots. Open thongs or sandals

should not be used on Field ranges. Your archer should have a hat for protection from the sun and glare. “Sun Block” cream and insect repellent can help make our sport safer and more pleasant. Make sure your archer has plenty of water. A small first Aid kit carried in a bum bag, and any personal medication that may be required.

As with “Drink Driving” there are strict rules on drinking alcohol & the sport of archery. Range Safety Take time to help the archer become familiar with National and IFAA rules. Assist the archer with the rules and by-laws of your club. Help the archer to be aware of his/her surroundings. Make sure the archer is prepared for the unexpected. Allow the archer to become aware of your range(s) under all conditions. Inform the archer never to rush an action on the range: take time and take care.

Equipment Safety It is in your archers’ best interest to set up a regular maintenance program for their archery equipment. Helping them keep their gear in top condition which will assist them to produce better scores. Things to look for: Splits in limbs risers, arrows nocks and tips. Fraying on bow strings and cables. Quivers in good order, make sure there are no holes for arrows to poke out of the bottom. Carry enough spares to finish a round in the event of an equipment failure. Help your archer understand that it takes but a few seconds after each target to do a quick check on their equipment. E.g.: Are the vanes or feathers still on the shaft properly, is the shaft still straight? Has the nock split or come loose? Warm-up and Injury Prevention Warming up before commencing any sport is very important. The muscles used to draw your bow back are muscles we do not use every day and therefore need to be attended to prior to shooting. Basic shoulder rotation, stretching the muscles in your upper back, shoulders, neck and forearms are all very important in the prevention of injury. See Appendix for warm up exercises.


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Chapter 4

Bows

Archery is a sport where the equipment must fit the archer, not the archer fit the equipment.

When selecting equipment, make sure that it fits your archer’s needs. Equipment should be chosen which will grow with both in poundage and draw length. It is advisable to try as many types of equipment as your archer can before they make a purchase. It is important that your archer consults their club instructor or coach before buying gear, as you may be able to advise them on what you will need. The highest priced bow is not necessarily the best bow for your archer; however, it is always better to buy the best equipment that they can afford, as it will always work out cheaper in the long run. Ask your archer to check on the workmanship of the gear they are buying before they make their mind up e.g. guarantees, after sales service, parts availability. Compound, Recurve, Longbow and Historical Bows: There are four types of bow that are allowed within field archery. They are the Compound Bow, Recurve Bow, Longbow and the Historical bow. The choice of which your archers prefer is up to them. You may be able to guide them with questions on what shooting style they wish to shoot within. Archery is as old as Man and has been important throughout history from the Historical Bow and Longbow up to its evolution of the modern compound bow. Many beginners learn the basic skills with a Recurve bow and then progress to their bow of choice. The choice is up to your archers, based on their personal interest and where they see their archery progressing to. Many archers will use different bows and shoot different styles over their archery careers. For example an archer may start off with a basic compound bow and shoot it without any added equipment, which is called shooting “Bowhunter” style and later decide to put pin-sights on and shoot either in the sighted “Bowhunter Ltd” or “Bowhunter UnLtd” or change to the Freestyle division. Whatever decision is made, your club instructor or coach is there to help with the various choices. The Compound Bow: This is a modern and innovative bow used by many archers. The wheel or cam system makes it easy to use and it allows the arrow to be shot at a greater speed.

The Recurve Bow: This bow can be a more traditional wooden design or a modern magnesium alloy and carbon fiber combination. The Recurve bow is used often in Target archery but many field archers enjoy the challenge of the Recurve.


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The Longbow: This is an older and more traditional than the recurve and compound bows. Many modern archers still enjoy the simplicity and tradition of shooting this style of bow.

http://www.abbeyarchery.com.au/p/BATMLR/Bear+Montana+Longbow+64".html


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Historical Bows: The historical bows are replicas of bows with that were in use before 1900. Some of them are based on designs that are over 2000 years and are often made of a single piece of wood. This style is slowly increasing in popularity.


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Chapter 5

Choosing a Bow Eye Dominance When your archer first comes to you, you need to do an eye dominance test. This will establish whether they will shoot left or right handed. It is important that you do: A simple Eye Dominance Test:

1. Get your archer to extend both of their arms out in front of their face and make a triangular opening with the palms of their hands. Focus on an object through the center of the opening and then bring the hands back to the face. Whichever eye the triangular opening ends up on is the dominant eye.

2. Again get your archer to extend both of their arms out in front of their face and make a triangular opening with the palms of their hands. Get them to look through the triangle at your face. The eye you can see through the triangular opening their dominant eye.

Your archer should be set up with a bow that is the same as their dominant eye, e.g. if they are right eye dominant they should shoot a right handed bow. This means that they will draw back their bow with the right hand on the string to an anchor point on the right side of their face which is the same side as their dominant eye. Alternatively they will shoot a left handed bow if they are left eye dominant. This may feel a little uncomfortable at first but you need to explain to your archer that this sport is all about aiming and then shooting a bow based on their eye dominance makes good sense.

Draw Length It is very important that all archers know their Draw Length so that they can purchase a bow that is the right for them. The Draw length is something that has been discussed in depth by many but there seem to be three main ideas as to how to come up with an archer’s draw length. Method 1: Have the Archer stand side on near a wall. Have the archer extend their hand out to the wall with the fist clenched and their knuckles resting against the wall. Make sure the archers arm, shoulders and head are in the correct alignment, you may have to do a bit of moving with the new archer to make sure their alignment is correct.


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Measure with a tape measure from the wall to the corner of the archer’s mouth. This is the Archers draw length as an unsighted shooter. To adjust this for release aid and adding sights (as the anchor will be lower and a little further back) you will need to add approximately an inch. Method 2: Use a measuring arrow (an arrow that has been marked with inch increments) with a recurve, long bow or bow without the restriction of a set draw length. Again make sure the archer is aligned correctly and the archer is anchored for unsighted shooters into the corner of their mouth and for sighted and release aid shooters in the position lower on their jaw and further back to get correct string picture. Method 3: This is the method where the arm span is divided by 2.5. Ask the archer to stand upright with their arms spread out on each side at shoulder height. Make sure the archers arms are not pulled behind them and their shoulders are down and arms relaxed. With the use of a tape measure, measure the length from the tip of one middle finger to the other middle finger in inches. Divide this number by 2.5 and this will give you an approximate draw length for an unsighted shooter. Again you will need to add extra to cater for a release aid and sighted shooter. This method of measurement does not take into account the possible difference in length that some archers may have in their arms, shoulders etc. Dividing the archer’s arm span by a fixed factor may not be accurate for everyone. Be very aware that the draw length of an archer can and probably will change over time. This is true of new adult archers as they are still settling into the routine of shooting and establishing the correct positioning of their arms, shoulder etc. As the archer becomes more comfortable with their shooting their muscles will relax thus increasing the draw length. Also young archers who are also growing and their draw length will naturally increase because of their increased growth. It is important not to cut new archers arrows down until they have been shooting regularly for a few months, if the archer’s draw length does increase in this time you have not then caused them extra expense of buying new arrows. Bow Poundage

The poundage of the bow is extremely important. If this is too high it can cause permanent damage to the muscles, tendons and joints of your upper body and this will affect the development of good form and may cause long lasting damage to your archer’s body. Help your archer understand that they need to purchase a bow that suits their requirements now for their needs and skill level, and ensure it has the ability grow in draw length. Signs of an over poundage bow

• Grunting while pulling back the bow. • Pointing the bow towards the sky and drawing it down to anchor is dangerous. • Pointing the bow at the ground and drawing back to anchor.


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• Pointing the bow at the target and dipping the elbow while drawing the bow back. • Arching the back and leaning back when drawing the bow back to anchor.

Correct Drawing technique Stand with your feet shoulder width apart, raise bow level with the target, draw the string back to an anchor point beside your face while keeping the elbow level with the target and not allowing it to dip down and up.

The three phases of drawing the Bow correctly. Note that the Drawing arm elbow does not dip down.


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Chapter 6

Other Equipment

Arrows Most arrows are made these days of carbon fiber or an aluminum/carbon fiber combination. Wooden arrows are used in the Historical and Longbow styles as part of the “historical” attire. Arrows have a point at the front and a nock at the rear end. The nock attaches the arrow to the bow string at the “nocking point” position, which is indicated by a nock locator on the string. Arrows have feathers or plastic vanes located at the rear to stabilize arrow in flight. They are collectively called arrow fletching. It is important to match the arrow to the archer’s bow poundage (also called draw weight). This information can be obtained from the “Arrow Spine Chart” at an archery shop for. An incorrect arrow can cause injury to the archer and may result in damage to the bow. Care of your archer’s arrows is important, making sure they are free from dents and bends and that the fletching, nocks and points are kept in good order. Arrow Rests This is a devise on the side of the Riser of the bow (the handle) where the arrow sits. The arrow rest aids in the stabilizing of the arrow after release. There are various types of arrow rest available and the choice of arrow rest lies mainly with personal preference, costs involved as well as the style of shooting and the type of bow. Compound bows usually use different types of arrow rests than Recurve bows and bows drawn with fingers have different types of arrow rests that those drawn with a release aid.

Arrow Nocks Arrow Tips


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Longbows and Historical bows use no special arrow rests as with these styles the arrows are shot off the bow shelve or off the bow hand. Modern type of Release Aid Rest Modern type Fingers Arrow Rest Finger Tabs & Finger Gloves Finger Tabs and Finger Gloves are commonly used by many archers to protect their fingers while shooting. There are a great variety of finger tabs and gloves available.

Finger Tab Finger Glove Arm Guards Arm Guards are a leather or plastic piece of safety equipment worn on the forearm. The arm guard is designed to the impact of the string once the arrow is fired. Quivers A quiver is the holder used to contain the archer’s arrows. There are side -, back - and bow quivers available in many styles and colours. Hip Quiver Back Quiver Bow Quiver


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Chest Guards These are more often used with recurve or longbow shooters and aid in keeping clothing away from the string. Sights There are many styles of pin sights and scopes available. What you chose to put on your bow will affect what style you will shoot when competing. Check with your club instructor or coach to work out what will best suit you. Pin Sights Scope Sliding Sight Peep Sights This is a rear sight attached to the string. The archer looks through the peep sight, at the same time lining up the sight or scope with the middle of the target. Peep sights are only used in certain compound bow shooting styles Self-Aligning Peep Sight


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Stabilizers These are a weight which is attached to the front of the bow to take any shock out of the bow when fired and to stop the bow from rocking backward upon release.

Short Stabilizer Long Stabilizers Release Aids A release aid is a mechanical devise which attaches to the bow string. It is set off like a gun trigger to release the string and push the arrow forward. There are many types of Release aids available. Hand Held Release Aid Wrist Strap Release Aid Fletching Jig This is a devise used to put fletches, feathers or vanes onto the arrow shaft.


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Chapter 7

The Basic Steps These are the steps required to form a shoot routine. Every time your archers shoot their bows you will be looking to have them repeat the same sequence each time. This will help them to become more consistent and more successful. Stance and Posture The way you stand is the first basic step of our sport. We usually adopt a square stance to begin with and then adapt to an open stance. The Closed Stance is usually only used for those people who have difficulty at first with clearance of the chest by the string. The closed stance helps that archer adopt the correct technique of string placement (it is best only used for a short period of time). Having your feet shoulder width apart and you weight evenly placed between your feet, is the optimum stance. In field archery the terrain will often be uneven and you may find it difficult to recreate the perfect stance. The Square stance requires the archers to stand with their feet side onto the target they are aiming at with their feet shoulder width apart and their toes in line. The Closed Stance has the archer starting in the square stance then moving their back foot backwards until their toe of the back foot is in line with the archer of their front foot. The Open Stance is the optimum stance for our sport and starts with the archer standing in the square stance then moving their back foot forward so that the arch of the back foot is in line with the big toe of the front foot. The front foot is then turned slightly so that it is in a 45 degree angle to the target. At all times the archer should strive to keep their body straight, keeping their ribs and chest down and their bottom tucked under. This will assist in creating a strong core.

Square Stance Open Stance Closed Stance Nocking the Arrow Putting the arrow on the string in the same way and in the same place each time is important to consistency. There is usually either a brass or thread nock locator on the string and the arrow is placed either below or above this locator, depending how the bow has been set up. The “index” fletch or vane should be positioned away from the bow if your archer is shooting with fingers. With release aid shooters the index fletch or vane should be either positioned to shoot through the arrow rest (for a prong rest) or directly above the arrow rest. Make sure the nock fits firmly onto the string. If it is not firm there may be a crack in the nock which may result in a dry fire situation if the arrow is fired.


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Hook Up This means either hooking your fingers onto the string, or in the case of a release aid hooking the release aid onto the string or “D loop”. For fingers shooters the string should sit in the first groove of your top three fingers. The fingers should be slightly hooked and not scrunched around the string. Whether to hook up with one finger over the arrow and two fingers under or placing all three fingers under the arrow is the archer’s choice. (There are certain divisions within IFAA where the archer is required to use the “Mediterranean” loose, where the index finger touches on top of the nock: e.g. Longbow. It is also useful when shooting with fingers and sights e.g. Bowhunter Limited or Freestyle Limited, as it allows for a greater distance to be achieved). Hooking up again should be done the same way every time.

Bow Hand Placing the bow hand comfortably onto the grip of the bow is the next step. For most beginners the hand is just placed around the grip, remembering not to hold the grip too tightly as this will cause problems with torque or moving the bow.


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The pro grip is the preferred grip used by most top archers it helps lessen the movement of the bow upon release and helps get the bow arm out of the way so it is not hit by the string upon release. The hand is placed in a Y position onto the grip of the bow. Pre-draw This is the time we move the bow arm up in line with the target we are about to shoot. The elbow of the bow arm should be rotated out or bent slightly for beginners. This allows the string to travel forward without connecting with the archers arm. The bow is then in place to draw the string back. Make sure that you do not hitch your shoulder in this position. Draw Once you have your bow pointed at the target it is time to pull the string back. This is done smoothly and without dipping your drawing arm elbow. If you have to dip your elbow to draw the


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bow it may mean that the bow is too heavy in poundage for you. (See correct drawing technique chapter 5) Anchor Once your archer has drawn the bow it must come to a stop. This is what is called an anchor. An anchor is a facial reference that the hand is drawn back to each time we shoot. When the anchor is consistent this gives that archer consistency. There are four main anchors used in field archery. 1. The field archers anchor 2. The Target Archers Anchor 3. Apache (high anchor) 4. Release Aid Anchor Where you anchor on your face will differ when you use fingers to release the string or a release aid.

Target Archers Anchor Field Archers Anchor

Apache or High Anchor Release Aid Anchor


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Holding & Aiming Making sure your archers anchor is correct and comfortable. Establish that the drawing elbow is in line with the arrow and that the bow arm is not locked straight but slightly relaxed. The next step is to start aiming. There are three basic aiming methods:

1. Instinctive Aiming This where the archer stares at the target and then releases the arrow without using any reference points on the bow or with the use of the tip of the arrow. Many archers start with an instinctive style and develop and aiming method as they progress.

2. Method Aiming (Gap Shooting)

This is where the archer uses a reference point either on their bow or by using the tip of their arrow to aim with.

3. Sights

Sights are an attached mechanism which allows the archer to become more accurate. There are a wide variety of sights available which put the archer into different shooting styles.

Whatever method you use you need to be consistent and focused on aiming. Release With a fingers shooter this requires the archer to relax their fingers and let the string push the arrow forward towards the target. The less movement when the release happens the better the result will be. To obtain consistency when shooting a smooth and consistent release is imperative. With a Release Aid shooter the archer gently squeezes the trigger which opens the calliper or rope for the string to move forward. Punching or jabbing at the trigger will cause the release to be jerky and inconsistent and can cause other problems later on. Follow Through The Follow Through starts immediately on release of the arrow, and lasts until the arrow has hit the target. It should consist of the natural backward movement of your release hand into a comfortable not forced position. This is the time the archer can analyse the shot and take mental note of how the shot felt in relation to where the arrow landed.


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Chapter 8

Communication Successful coaching and instruction can only take place if you are confident in the knowledge of your sport and how you are going to communicate your needs to those you are instructing. This confidence will grow the more you put yourself in the position of instructing. Communication should be simple and clear explaining of what you want the archer to do and explaining of what they should not do. Good demonstration of how you wish your students use their equipment is essential. You are in a position to make the archer feel comfortable and at ease and your actions and tone of voice will assist you in this endeavour. Sometimes you will need to touch the archer to assist in obtaining the correct position or form. If you need to do this you will have to communicate this to the archer. Being organized and prepared will allow you to focus on how you are communicating to your students. Using correct archery jargon and explaining the meaning of our unique words will assist the students in their further involvement of archery. Overseeing your archer either individually or in a group it is often a challenge. Good communication and the ability to listen to your students will allow you to excel in your position as instructor. Never put your archers down or belittle them in any way. You are there to be a positive influence not a negative one.

Chapter 9

IFAA Shooting Styles IFAA has many different shooting styles in which the archer can participate. These shooting styles are based on the type of bow the archer is shooting as well as limitation to other equipment e.g.: sights, release aids, arrow type, etc. that the archer uses with the bow.


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The following shooting styles are defined in accordance with the IFAA Book of Rules: Barebow - Recurve and Compound Freestyle Limited - Recurve and Compound Freestyle Unlimited – Compound Bowhunter – Recurve and Compound Bowhunter Unlimited – Compound Bowhunter Limited – Recurve and Compound Longbow Historical Bow

A complete guide to these divisions is found in the IFAA Book of rules available on the IFAA website. Your job as an instructor is to assist your archer in making sure their equipment complies with the division you elect to shoot in.

Chapter 10

Competency

So that all our members are competent in the basic use of their equipment and knowledge of the IFAA rules, each member will be deemed competent by the club instructor or coach. The archer should attend a club for basic instruction according to the rules of the club. This basic Competency will normally take place at the Practice area or at an Indoor facility. The practice area or indoor facility should be set up to following standard. Skill Competency – Must be ticked prior to moving to the Field Range Dominant eye test Basic Stance – Square stance to start with. Load Bow Correctly Hook-up (Fingers or Release Aid) Correctly. Understand Pre-Aim technique Draw Bow correctly Establish an acceptable anchor Understand the concept of Instinctive, Gap shooting or sights depending on their

equipment. Release the string in an acceptable manner Understand the Follow Through


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Safety Competency – Must be ticked prior to moving to the Field Range Safety – Must obey and abide by the safety rules of the range. Understand & abide by the Club Rules Introduction to basic idea of Field Archery rounds ( accompany the instructor around the

field range) Once these skill and safety competencies have been ticked off the archer will be deemed “Range Ready” Your Initial Session To begin this first part of your program the following tips will be useful:

1. Explain the Basic Safety rules that you will be using in your practice area or indoor range. These should be the whistle system (When to shoot, when to walk forward to collect arrows and an emergency whistle). Method 1. Two Whistles to stand on shooting line One Whistle to commence shooting Three Whistles to walk forward and collect arrows Five or more Whistles to stop shooting in case of emergency Method 2. Call archers to the shooting line One Whistle to commence shooting Two Whistles to walk forward Three Whistles to stop shooting in case of an emergency

2. Demonstrate how you would like your archer to shoot. This will be a basic step by step

guide starting with stance all the way to follow through. It is suggested that you start new archers using their index, middle and ring fingers underneath the arrow, not splitting their fingers over the arrow. This is a very simple and easy way to ensure the arrow does not come off the arrow rest due to arrow pinch. All new archers should use the square stance.

3. Do an eye dominance test on your archer to establish if they will be shooting left or right

handed. Explain to your archer that they may feel a little uncoordinated at first but that will quickly pass when they are more successful at hitting the target. It is better to start them this way as within 20 minutes the discomfort they may feel from shooting with their non-dominant hand will go and they will be more accurate at hitting the butt.

4. If possible do not put targets onto the butts. Allow the archer to understand how the

arrow flies and by moving their front arm higher or lower they will get a basic idea of aiming.

5. Make sure each archer does not have loose fitting clothing which may become entangled

in the string. Also hats or jewellery, including large earrings may have to be removed. Ask


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your archers to wear tight fitting tops and “Skins” in the cooler weather rather than bulky clothing and jackets.

6. Discuss the use of the arm guard and demonstrate how to put one on. Most new archers

do not hit their arms, but have arm guards available just in case. Finger Tabs are also a useful piece of safety equipment. Demonstrate how one is used and have them available on the bow stands for those archers whose fingers become sore.

7. With a small group or just one archer you will be able to kit them out and have them

shooting all at the one time. With a larger group, more than six, it is advisable to have the archers shooting in groups with those who are not shooting standing behind the bow stands away from the shooting and equipment line.

8. Each archer who is ready to shoot must have the correct bow and arrows to suit.

Measuring arrow length for each archer is easily done, by getting the archer to load the bow and draw to their anchor and making sure there is at least an inch of arrow in front of the arrow rest. Do not measure using the arrow coming to the top of the chest as this can be a “Health and safety” issue if someone pushes against the end of the arrow. It is advisable to use hip quivers rather than ground quivers as the archer is able to walk safely with their arrows in their quivers once they have pulled them from the butt. This will also emulate the system of each archer carrying their own arrows in their own quiver around the field range.

Step by Step Guide to teaching a new Archer

Step Description Information Chapter Location Information required

A. Introduction of Archer to Field Archery

Talk to the new archer about the field archery rounds available at your club.

Chapter: 2 IFAA Rule Book

B. Introduce your club rules Each Club has their own set of unique rules which all archers at the club MUST be aware of.

Provide a copy of your club rules to the New Archer / Member

C. Archer with their own equipment

If a new archer presents with their own equipment then you MUST follow the “New Archers Equipment Check List” (Document I-D) and mark off the “New Archery Equipment Check Off” (Document I-E).

Check all equipment using the “New Archer Equipment Check List”, making sure that any unsafe equipment is NOT used.

D. Discuss Safety Personal, Range safety etc. MUST be discussed with the new Archer.

Chapter: 3

E. Which Hand to use (Left or Right Handed)

Eye Dominance Test to be conducted on all New Archers

Chapter: 5

F. Setting Archer up with Club Equipment

If the New Archer does not have their own equipment set them up with club equipment appropriate to their eye dominance.

G. Take Archer to Practice area and take through the Basic Steps


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1. Stance For Novice Archer the square stance is most appropriate

Chapter: 7

2. Nocking Arrow Teach the New Archer to nock the arrow properly and consistently.

Chapter: 7

3. Drawing Hand One finger over & two fingers under the arrow is the more traditional method of hooking onto the string. Three fingers under the arrow is the easiest finger placement for new archers. This will help eliminate finger pinch and stop the arrow coming off the arrow rest.

Chapter: 7

4. Bow hand, Arm and Pre-draw

Setting the Bow hand arm and lifting the bow to pre-draw.

Chapter: 7

5. Drawing Bow Keep drawing elbow in straight line. Chapter: 7 6. Anchor Firm facial anchor with index finger in the

corner of the mouth for beginners. Chapter: 7

7. Holding and Aiming When teaching New Archers it is often useful to help them understand the “Gap System” of aiming. This way they will know where the tip of the arrow needs to be at each distance.

Chapter: 7

8. Releasing A static release keeping the drawing hand on the face upon the release is the easiest to begin with. This will also help eliminate the archer throwing their hand upon release.

Chapter: 7

9. Follow Through This is the time when the archer assesses their shot. The archer should remain in the same position as they were at anchor and before they released. This will help eliminate the archer throwing their bow hand to peak at the target

Chapter: 7

10. Relax

Chapter: 7

H. New Archers Competency Check Off List

This Competency Check off must be completed and Signed prior to any new archer proceeding to the “Field Range”.

I. Taking New Archer onto Field Range

The Instructor must walk around the range with the new Archer helping them with their first time shooting on the Range. The Instructor is able to explain the rules as they progress from target to target. The New Archer should be kept at a distance from the target that is comfortable for the New Archer (e.g. the cub peg) before allowing them to proceed to the peg they are required to shoot from.


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Chapter 11

Running Programs for School or Recreational Setting Many instructors will have the opportunity to be involved in archery programs at schools or recreational facilities. Some will also have groups come to their clubs for a taste of archery. Whatever the reason, the key to running such programs is SAFETY and ORGANISATION. Prior to your group arriving, you should have the range already set up, be it indoors or outdoors. It is important that the students remain focused so it wise to provide targets for them to shoot at, novelty targets are a great idea. Once the group has arrived you need to establish that you will be discussing the safety rules and demonstrating how they are to shoot their equipment. If possible the students should be seated. You are then able to stand in front of the group with the equipment that you will be using for demonstration readily at hand. You must be mindful that your students really just want to shoot the equipment so you need to make your safety talk (Basic Safety Rules and demonstration of the Shoot Sequence) very visual and interesting. Explain the use of finger tabs and arm guards and have them available with each bow if necessary. You then need to do an eye dominance test on each student. Next line the students up at the waiting line behind the bows they will be shooting. Call each group forward with a maximum of 8 per group students within the indoor setting and maximum of 6 students per group at an outdoor range. For their first time shooting you need to move from one shooter to the next to assist them with their first shot. Just inform them you will be doing this and after their first shot they can continue shooting their quiver of arrows. Do this with each group and continue to assist them each time they come to the line to shoot.


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Set Up of Outdoor Range for School or Recreational Groups These set-up criteria can be used for school sport or outdoor venues such as recreational camps for basic instruction and competition.

1. The area where the archery range is set up must be a level area. There should be approximately twenty meters from the area where the students are assembled behind the bow stands to the target butts. There must be a clear area of no less than forty meters directly behind the target butts for stray arrows to fall. There must be no pathways directly behind this area and there must be no areas where other persons can walk freely onto the archery range.

2. There must be a clear shooting line (sport cones)

3. There must be stands for the bows and quivers to be kept on when not in use approx. one

meter behind the shooting line.

4. There must be a clear line (sport cones) where the students wait approx. one meter behind the bow stands.

5. The target butts must be able to catch the arrows substantially without damage to the

arrows. Butts and stands can be purchased from reputable archery equipment dealers.

6. The butts should be placed approx. one meter apart with a maximum of three butts to start and four butts once the teacher has experience with set up and running of the sport. Two archers are able to shoot into the one butt.

7. Targets are placed in the middle of the butt.

8. There should be no more than six archers on the shooting line at one time. Once the

teacher has experience with set up and running of the sport a maximum of eight archers should be the limit.


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Target butts

Bow Stands


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Basic safety rules These Rules must be read to the students prior to them touching the archery equipment. 1. Do not Fire your bow without an arrow in it. This is called a “Dry Fire”. The bow will be

damaged and may even break if you “Dry Fire” the bow. 2. Point the bow at the targets while loading and after it is loaded. 3. You must not point your bow in any other direction. 4. Your arrows are to remain in your quiver at all times, unless they are being fired. 5. Before you commence shooting you must be standing on the Shooting Line. 6. A whistle system is used to indicate when you can commence shooting & when you can walk

forward to collect your arrows.

a. One Whistle – Indicates you may start loading your bow & firing your arrows. Once you have shot your arrows walk back to the bow stand & place your bow onto the bow stand & wait at the bow stand.

b. Two Whistles – Indicates you may walk forward & retrieve your arrows. 7. While collecting your arrows, stand to the side of your arrows & pull them out of the target

one by one. Place the arrows back into your quiver before you start to walk back to the bow stand.

8. Once you are back at the bow stand you can pass your quiver to the next student in line. 9. DO NOT RUN – at any time. 10. You are not allowed to bring the arrow back to the eye. This is dangerous as the nock at the

back of the arrow may break & go into your eye. Anchor only with the top (index finger) in the corner of your mouth. This will keep the arrow in line with your eye but not near your eye.

11. If your arrow falls forward over the shooting line do not lean forward to pick it up. Pick up the

arrow when you walk forward to retrieve your arrows from the targets. 12. Shoot only the target directly in front of you. Do not shoot on angles across other archers. 13. If you have a medical problem or a disability please let your instructor know. Your ability to

shoot well may be affected by any problems you have. 14. For students wishing to shoot their own equipment approval must be obtained from the

instructor. The instructor will inspect your equipment and if they deem it unsafe you will not be able to use it.


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15. Under no circumstances shall arrows with a “Broadhead” point (arrows set up for hunting) be brought onto the range.

DANGEROUS BEHAVIOUR MUST NEVER BE TOLERATED!

Shooting Sequence 1. Stand at the shooting line facing side on to the target

in front of you. Your feet should be shoulder width apart and your weight should be evenly placed between your feet.

2. Lay your bow on the side. Take an arrow out of your

quiver and take it over the top of the bow. 3. Clip the arrow onto the string underneath the brass

arrow locator.


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4. Put your bow in the upright position. 5. Place your top three fingers onto the string

directly underneath the arrow. This is the easiest way to start shooting as this causes no arrow pinch. Put your thumb and little finger together.


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6. Pull the string back until the top finger (index finger) is in the corner of your mouth and your thumb is under your jaw. This is called your anchor point. Do not draw the bow string past your mouth as this can be unsafe.

7. When releasing the string so the arrow goes forward, keep your hand on your face and relax your

fingers, do not throw your hand. 8. Relax and start again.


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How to Run a Competition So that the students remain focused and are able to test their skill level competition is important. This is introduced after you have taught the students to aim. Keep the students at close distances varying from 5 to 15 meters so that they will be successful. Shooting at longer distances will make it more frustrating for the students with less success. Each student has four arrows in the quiver when it is his/her turn to shoot. The cones can be set at different distances e.g. 5, 10 and 15 meters, so that the students can shoot, be it always together, from these different shooting positions. On the Round IFAA indoor targets the white middle of the target scores 5 points and each ring going outward scores one point less, down to one point in the outer ring. The outside of the round target does not score. The Instructor scores the students each time they shoot, and the students cannot touch or remove their arrows until they have been scored. Keep a record of each students scores over the following weeks and reward the winning (top three) archers at the end of term.


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Chapter 12

Instructing Children in Field Archery Children usually become involved in archery with their parents and really enjoy the social and competition aspects of our sport. They normally participate in sport to have fun, to make friends, feel good and to learn new skills. As an instructor you should encourage participation in competition in a healthy way, focusing on personal improvement and enjoyment, and by using the competition to motivate them to learn and improve. It is important to stress that the child’s performance is more important than the end result and you need to support and encourage the child regardless of the outcome of the competition. Their imaturity and the fact that they may tire easily may cause problems when shooting in a field round. A child’s physical characteristics differ from their older counterparts. They are active but tire easily, lack fine motor control and develop at different rates. Children are often unable to tolerate excessive exercise and their body proportions differ. It is important to help children develop good shooting form with equipment that is suitable for them. A child’s bone development is not complete until 17 or 18 years of age so damage to these developing bones can occur with the use of inappropriate equipment. They should have low poundage bows and in the case of a compound, the draw length should be correct and adjustable for growth. A compound bow with a draw length modual system that can grow with the child’s draw will be an asset to the young archer. Arrows that are matched and spined to the poundage of the bow will also help keep the child involved as they are more likely to sucessfully hit the target. Don’t be tempted to cut the arrows too short with children as they will grow and they will need the arrows to grow with them. It is important to keep the child interested in the sport they are playing and in the early phases it can be benefitial for the child to possibly complete a single a field round (14 targets) instead of a full tournament round (28 targets). A child’s social skills are different from adults and learning how to cooperate, compete and how to cope with winning and losing are important issues an instructor can assist with. There are three basic skill learning stages that an archer undergoes: The Early Stage – The archer may make a large amount of errors, may look and feel clumsy and not understand simple instruction. The Intermediate Stage - The archer has a basic level of skill, can start to speed up the skill and can use the skill in a competative situation. The Final Stage – The archer unconciously performs the skill, can compete under pressure and can work on more than one thing at a time. As an instructor it is important that you are aware of the stage your student is up to. At all stages it is important to give and show good demonstration. Make the skill flow from simple to complex and if necessary break the skill into sections. So as not to overload your students don’t be in a hurry to give too much information at one time and to keep your student’s attention, make skill practice challenging. Modifying the rounds we shoot can help the child maintain concentration and help gain more confidence. You may wish to have practice rounds with the target position modified to help with different skills, e.g. learning to gap shoot by using bigger targets at close distances, playing dart archery to develop finer aiming skills.


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Skills training should be fun and held over a short period of time. The skills practice is a time to correct errors, help them understand what, and what not to do and to support and encourage your students. Holding your training sessions at the Practice Butts or indoor range can be a great way to train your archers. You can use a grid system with those practicing release and form correction at the close butts and those practicing aiming and distance practice at the more distant butts. Forming groups of archers to practice like skills also works as you will be able to correct and assist each group with the same information. As with all archers warming up, cooling down and warming down are essential to maintaining healthy bodies. It is important to instil good practices from the beginning to eliminate injury to the archer. Helping our children develop these routines will help them to enjoy the sport of archery for a very long time. Problems with disipline can be eliminated with good preparation. If the acitivities you have planned are fun and interesting, your students will more likely be motivated to be involved. If you do need to disipline your students do not resort to physical punishments such as push- ups and running laps of the oval, instead use short stints of “Time Out”. Never belittle your students in front of their peers and always try and use Positive reinforcement. Parents of children participating in archery whether they are also archers or not, can often be a challenge. Some steps to help stop problems from occuring are to encourage the parents help and participate, explain your philosophies and plans but be respectfully firm when views seem to be opposed. Setting behavioral standards and encouraging the parents to give positive feedback, as well as effectively communicating with them can help them feel a part of their child’s development within the sport. Your students are the best indicators of how successful your training session has been. Ask for their feedback and take note of both the positive and negative information they give. Remember good preparation and communication are the keys to successful instruction. The way you behave as an instructor and the way you convey your message will determine how well your students perform and how well they understand what you are trying to convey. Being positive and instilling the virtues of good sportsmanship honesty and kindness will achieve better results than an instructor who uses profanity, critisises the students, makes winning the only goal and allows cheating. Remember, our children are the future of our sport, so the environment they learn and grow in will determine how they will act as senior archers within our sport.


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Chapter 13

Instructing Women in Field Archery

Although there are more similarities between women and men than differences, it is important to understand these differences and the role they play in helping women enjoy our sport. Women tend to have a shorter draw length than a man of the same age and build, they also carry their weight mainly in lower part of the body which gives them a lower centre of gravity. Women have less muscle development in their upper body and they are more flexible than a man of the same age and of similar build and their breasts can be a hinderance. These differences need to be considered when helping female archers choose their equipment. They need lower poundage bows with appropriate draw length and arrows spined to match. In most cases women enjoy the same challenges that Field archery provides to men and will happily be just as involved. Women primarily participate in sport for the same reasons as males do: for exercise, the social aspect, as well as competition. Unfortunately in many countries Field archery is still seen as a predominately male sport, based on the misconception of having to be strong to use a bow, while in some countries archery is associated with hunting. Many women are introduced into the sport through their parents, boyfriends, husbands etc. Very few women take up this sport on their own initiative. As a club member you have probably noticed that there are fewer females than males in your club. As an instructor you will have to take these factors into account just as you have to consider cub, junior and veteran archers as minorities within your club and within the sport in general. These minority groups all have their own needs and you have to be mindful of them. Girls from the age of approximately ten years start to develop differently to their male counterparts of the same age. Up until this time young boys and girls are basically built the same with the same amount of strength for their age. However as young girls develop the hormonal changes which take place change the shape of their bodies which you as an instructor need to consider: Broadening of the hips This will result in a lower centre of gravity which is good for balance. Shorter Arms Shorter arms with a marked angle at the elbow will mean that most women have a shorter draw length than males of the same age. Narrower in the shoulders Imbalance of Upper and Lower Body Strength Less muscle on back & chest which means women should use bows which are proportionally lower in poundage than males of the same age.


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Shorter and lighter than men of same age Even when women are the same height as men they are generally lighter. Greater Flexibility This joint flexibility can cause the elbow joint of most females to be more prominent when they hold the bow. More time may be needed to help with rotating the elbow and an arm guard may be a very handy tool when first instructing your new female archer. Breasts If you have women or junior girls with large breasts and they have difficulty in bringing the string of the bow to the front of the breast it is advantageous to adopt either an open Stance (back foot moves forward of Back foot) or closed stance (Back foot moves behind front foot). This allows the string to not interfere with their breasts and they will be able to shoot with more confidence. It may be fitting to use a chest guard, especially for recurve and longbow shooters. Pregnancy While pregnant women should be physically active, they should adjust the type of physical activity to accommodate the increasing size of the baby. Pregnant women should ensure their body temperature does not reach high levels as this might affect the baby.

Equipment Selection As an instructor you will have to take the physical differences of your women athletes into consideration when helping them choose the correct equipment. There are many great bows around these days that are specifically designed for archers with shorter draw length and lower poundage requirements. Be mindful of your archer’s ability and try and match to the bow to their capabilities. Equipment that is too heavy to pull back and too cumbersome, as well as arrows that are too heavy and over spined will only make it more difficult for the female athlete to achieve.

Conclusion Remember to be aware of the differences between men and women. Support and nurture your coaching relationship with your female athletes and provide information on the correct equipment appropriate for the physical ability of the female athlete. The time you spend now will help to keep our female archers in our sport.


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Chapter 14

Instructing Archers with Disabilities and Elderly Archers Archery is a sport which can be available to all members of our community and all ages. Those amoung us who have disabilities or are a little older can achieve pleasure from the methodical disipline archery provides. Modification of equipment (within manufacturers specification) and looking for ways to help the archer achieve his/her goals with possible form change and development and training programs can create a pleasurable past time for them. The social aspect of our sport can also provide those who are often isolated due to their disability or age with friendship and a feeling of belonging. Not all disabled people will be suitable to this sport and as safety for all our members is the most important criteria. Not all clubs have facilities that are suitable to archers with disabilities. But for those who have, encourage these archers and older members of our communities , your members will be well rewarded. If your club has an indoor facility this may be the optimum area for you to start with your disabled or elderly archer. If there is a possibility to get these archers outdoors then you made need the assistance of other coaches or club members. Using the practice butt area of your club to devise rounds for those with disibilities to shoot and participate can be useful.

If a disabled archer cannot reach the correct anchor, modifications to shooting style can help the archer still be competitive.


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Chapter 15

Instructors’ code of conduct

The term “Code of Conduct” refers to the manner in which an Instructor or a Coach approaches and addresses the students that are instructed. Although the IFAA has a “Code of Conduct” for behaviour of its archers on the range, the “Code of Conduct” for our Instructors and Coaches is relatively new. The IFAA because of its “family sport” approach rather than competitive approach in the sport of Field Archery has been relatively free of bad conduct by our archers. Nevertheless it is good to know that within the sport fraternity there exists a type of poor conduct that can be defined as “Harassment”, a type of conduct that must not be allowed in our sport. Harassment normally is a wilful type of unacceptable conduct towards other persons, be it in the family, the work place or in sport and its serious nature has been acknowledged in the development and implementation of state, federal and international legislation as being unlawful. However the Instructor is also subjected to non-intentional harassment. These are situations where the instructor acts with the best intentions, but his intentions are seen to be unacceptable to the student. You as an instructor are a “teacher” and as such you may be subjected to similar accusations that have ruined professional teachers at institutions of education. It is therefore important that an Instructor is fully aware of the requirements that are laid down by national legislation. Many countries require an instructor to have police clearance to instruct children, especially girls and instructors without such clearance may be subject to legal action. When dealing with children it is important to inform parents that you may have to touch their child to help with the draw and the stance. Even though you inform the parent, you must still communicate with the child before you touch the child and get his/her permission. Also make sure that the child is not alone with you. Never have physical contact for longer than necessary! Touching an adult, especially a female, without communication may result in trouble for the instructor. Communicate and ask that person that he/she may be touched, especially females when there is a stance problem. As an Instructor or Coach always keep in mind that the people come to you because they need your help and that they need to trust you to get a maximum interaction and performance. It is the manner in which the Instructor deals with his students that will determine the growth of the sport and the growth of the club he/she represents. From the minute instruction is given, the basic principle of the “World Family of Archers” must be made clear to the students. This means that they need to understand that male and female, kids, adults and veterans all may shoot together on the same range and sometimes in the same group. It means to understand that the enjoyment of the sport takes precedence over winning! It is important for them to realise that a poor code of conduct may create a hostile or unpleasant environment in sport, which may contribute to low morale, increase the turnover of volunteers, increase an


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organisation’s liability and its insurance and legal costs and diminish the reputation of Field Archery and the IFAA in the eyes of the community and potential sponsors. We all understand the saying “What you seed is what you reap”. It is therefore important that instructors by acting and behaving correctly install similar behaviour with their students: 1. Do not use strong or offensive language. 2. Do not embarrass, belittle, humiliate or make fun of a student, not even as meant as a joke. 3. Do not raise your voice 4. Do not touch a student without his/her permission 5. Keep the student in his/her comfort zone. Do not push towards unrealistic goals

Chapter 16

Maintaining Records Log Books The question of record keeping for instructors in Field Archery has been on-going. A well-kept log book gives the instructor information about the people they are instructing and the problems they have helped fix. The log book can be as simple as an exercise book ruled up with the date, name of individual or group, what was covered in the training session and any comments made by the instructor. Many instructors prefer to have a more detailed log book either kept on their computer with more detailed descriptions. Whatever your preference it is important that you as an instructor have a record of your training activities. Competency Check off forms The idea of having the Competency forms is to make sure that each archer has successfully achieved an acceptable standard before proceeding to the field archery range. Keeping these forms at your club will assist the instructors and club management with keeping records of those archers who are coming to your facility. These forms can be used as the basis for on-going instruction and kept in a file or uploaded onto your computer to keep records electronically.

Chapter 17

Equipment checks Equipment inspection is an on-going task for the instructor. We not only inspect equipment at our clubs but also at regional, national and international competitions. No matter where you are doing your inspection the onus for compliance to the rules for their equipment in each shooting style and equipment safety always lies with the archer. Your role is to advise the person presenting their equipment if they do not fit into the nominated division or if you see a safety issue with their bow. It is then up to the archer to comply with the style or nominate into the style in which the equipment fits.


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For bow safety, the archer must be able to prove that they have fixed the safety concern before their equipment can be passed. At all major competitions the archer must fill out the “Equipment Inspection Form” which is down loadable from the IFAA website. It is important that you become familiar with these forms to make inspections run smoothly. The information below is directly from the IFAA website with diagrams to assist in the explanation of each division and what equipment can be used within these divisions. Shooting styles of the IFAA 1. Barebow - Recurve and Compound (B.B)

a. Bow, arrows, strings and accessories shall be free from sights, marks, blemishes or laminations which could be used for aiming.

b. An adjustable arrow rest may be used to control the space between the arrow and the face of the bow window.

c. The use of stabilisers shall be permitted. d. On permanent nocking point only is permitted which may be marked by one or two nock locators. e. No mechanical device will be permitted other than one non-adjustable draw check and/or level

mounted on the bow, neither of which may extend above the arrow. f. All arrows used shall be identical in length, weight, diameter, fletching and nocks, without regard to

colour, with allowance for wear and tear.


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2. Freestyle limited - Recurve & Compound (F.S.)

a. Any type of sight is permitted.

b. Release aids are not permitted.

3. Freestyle Unlimited (FU)

a. Any type of bow, sight, and release aid

recognised by the IFAA World Council is permitted.


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4. Bowhunter - Recurve & Compound (B.H.)

a. Bows, arrows, string and accessories shall be free from sight marks, blemishes and/or laminations which could be used for aiming. A levelling device is not permitted.

b. No device of any type that may be used for sighting may be attached to the archer's equipment. No clicker will be permitted. No peep sight is permitted.

c. Optical devices that assist the archer to obtain consistency in eye alignment and anchor point are not permitted.

d. One permanent nocking point only, is allowed on the string. Nocking point may be marked by one or two nock locators.

e. One consistent anchor point only is permitted. f. An archer shall touch the arrow when nocked with the index finger against the nock. Finger

position may not be changed during competition. In cases of physical deformity or handicap special dispensation shall be made.

g. All arrows used shall be identical in length, weight, diameter, fletchings and nocks, without regard for colour, with allowance for wear and tear.

h. Brush buttons in their proper places at the recurve tip of the bow, string silencers no closer than twelve inch above or below the nocking point and bow quiver installed on the opposite side of the sight window with no part of the quiver visible in the bow window is permitted.

i. One straight stabiliser, coupling device included, if used, not exceeding twelve inch as measured from the back of the bow may be used. No forked stabiliser or any counter balance will be legal. The plunger (where the stabiliser is screwed in) is part of the stabiliser.

j. Draw weight shall not be adjusted during any one round.


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5. Bowhunter Unlimited (B.U.) a. Any type of bow and release aid recognised by the IFAA World Council is permitted. A sight with

4 or 5 fixed reference points will be allowed and neither the sight nor any reference point shall be moved during a round.

b. Pin sights are to be of straight stock from point of anchor to sighting points, held nearer horizontal than vertical within the sight, with only one sighting reference possible from each pin or reference point. Hooded pins or scope sights are not permitted.

c. Release aids are permitted. d. A kisser button or string peep sight will be permitted but not both. No form of magnifying device

may be incorporated in, or attached to, the peep sight. e. Pin Guards/brush guards may be used provided that the distance between the bottom of the

top guard and the top pin must be greater than the distance between the top pin and the next highest pin. The same clearance as for the top sight pin applies also to the bottom pin and the bottom guard.

f. All other rules for the Bowhunter style will apply. 6. Bowhunter Limited - (B.L.)

a. Same rules apply as for Bowhunter Unlimited except that the release aids are not permitted.

7. Longbow - (L.B.)

a. A one piece straight ended bow of any material, which when strung displays one continued unidirectional curve, which is measured as follows:


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When the strung bow is placed with the bowstring in a vertical position, the angle as measured between the tangent of any point on the limb and an imaginary horizontal line must always decrease as this point is moved further away from the bow grip. Where there is any doubt as to the continuing curve of the limb then a string-line laid from the end of the riser fade out to the commencement of the tip overlays (or if there are no overlays then the point at which the bow string is held in the nock groove) on the back of the strung bow shall show no gaps between the string line and the bow limb.

b. The tip reinforcing may not exceed 20mm in height, measured from the surface of the back of the bow limb and may not exceed 50mm in length, measured from the centre of the string groove towards the bow grip.

c. The bow may contain a window and an arrow shelf. The side of the window shall be slanted over the full length of the window and rounded off at the point where the window intersects with the top bow limb. The window cut may not exceed the centre of the bow.

d. The belly, bow grip, the window and the arrow shelf shall be free of any marks or blemishes that may be used as sighting aids.

e. Any additions to the bow for the purpose of stabilisation, levelling, draw-weight reduction, sighting and/or draw checking are not permitted

f. Only one nocking point shall be allowed on the string, which may be marked by either one or two nocking point locators. If resting nocks are used -such as ball nocks -only one locator may be used.

String silencers no closer than 30 cm above or below the nocking point are allowed. g. Arrows shall be of wood, fletched with natural feather, and must be of the same length, fletch and

pile, without regard for colour. The arrow must be free of any marks or blemishes that can be used as sighting aids. Nocks may be of any material and any weight of pile may be used.

h. The bow must be shot with the "Mediterranean" loose. In cases of physical deformity or handicap special dispensation shall be made.

i. Entries that do not comply with the above rules shall be classified in the recurve bowhunter style or in the shooting style the equipment is allowed and possible to use.


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8. Historical Bow - (HB) a. The recognition of the classic bow (also called historical or primitive bow) shall be based on the

accepted design and usage during the period preceding the year 1900. b. There shall be no distinction between the different configurations of bow designs or of materials

used.

c. Only the adult division shall be recognised and there shall be no class grades. d. The bow shall be either a self-wood or composite bow. e. The inclusion of a form of arrow rest or shelf as well as a sight window cut-in shall be permitted,

provided such meet the classic configuration of the bow which has established historical precedence.

f. The bow shall be constructed of wood or materials that were used during the period of the bow’s

historical usage. Modern materials such as carbon, glass fibre and epoxy may not be used. The use of historic glues such as bone glue and hot tree resin is not permitted and only modern glues and adhesives shall be used for the riser and limbs!

g. The standard bowstring material shall be polyester. Historical (such as flax or sinew) and/or modern

bowstring materials (such as Kevlar, etc.) may not be used. h. Arrow shafts shall be made of wood and shall be fletched with natural feathers. Modern arrow

points or piles as well as modern nocks shall be permitted. Nocks that are cut into the shaft are only permitted when these are strengthened with appropriate materials.

i. Accessories such as woven

nocking point indicators and thumb rings shall be permitted, provided that such accessory was used during the historic use of the bow.

j. The onus shall rest with the

archer to ensure that all the equipment that is used for the tournament is historically correct. The shooter shall show documented proof of the correctness of the equipment if so asked by the technical controllers at the tournament.


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Chapter 18

Public Safety

It is inevitable that we will have members of the general public at our archery venues. These could be parents, children, teachers or spectators for a major competition. When a field event is taking place no person other than the competitors or officials are allowed onto the range. This is not only a safety rule but it also protects against coaching of archers on the range which may give them an unfair advantage. Making sure that your archers are safe is your responsibility as an instructor, at times making sure that other members of the public are safe can also fall on your shoulders. Within a school instruction or recreational program it is advantageous that the activity takes place away from other activities. When outdoors making sure that there is no access to the archery range at the butt end and from the side will assist you in making the range safe. The use of an observer’s line for all persons who are not involved in the program, to be able see what is going on will be an advantage. This line should be at least 5 metres from the waiting line so that the archers will not become distracted and members of the public cannot handle the equipment. This can also be implemented at the indoor range or practice range at your club. If a school gym or recreation hall is being used then it important that there is no outside access to the range. Public liability insurance is a must for all facilities. At your clubs this will be addressed by your governing association. If you are undertaking instruction in schools or recreational facilities e.g. camps, then these institutions should have their own Public Liability Insurance to cover everyone who is at the venue. Make sure that this is the case before accepting your instruction sessions. Visible signage indicating that no person can touch the equipment is advisable at your clubs. It only takes a few seconds for the uninformed to dry fire a bow.


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APPENDIX A:

Exercise to teach archers how to gap shoot: Set Up When teaching the gap system you must make sure the archer has a reasonable anchor and that you have worked out their correct eye dominance. We start by preparing a large target butt of at least 1x1 meter. Various materials are suitable to make these butts as well as commercial butts of that size. Place a round target in the top half of the butt. Draw a dot on a piece of card board about the size of a tennis ball and place this in line with the round target in the middle of the bottom half of the butt. You then stand the archer approximately 10 metres from the target.

Target Set up for Gap shooting exercise Aiming Process Start by asking the archer to point their index finger at the target (arm extended) then stand beside them and look at their arm and lower their arm until it is level with the target. Now ask them to look at their finger tip, with one eye closed (their dominant eye open), they will notice that their finger is under the target. You can explain this to them by saying that their eyes are above the finger and they are looking down over the finger and not along the arm towards the pointed finger which would be regarded as “Gun Barrelling”. Next ask the archer to pick up their bow and proceed to load their arrow, explain that when they reach anchor they will notice that the point of the arrow is directly in front of them and can be used as a point of reference. Arrow Tip When using the tip of the arrow make sure that all the arrows are the same length and weight. Once at anchor ask the archer to close the non-dominant eye and point the tip of the arrow under the dot on the bottom butt. The arrow should be as close to touching the dot as possible but don’t let the arrow tip cover the dot completely as this may cause the archer to lose sight of the dot causing the arrow to hit high.


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Reading the Arrows The archer then shoots four arrows aiming in exactly the same way, under the dot. These arrows should form some sort of group and from here you are able to work out where the archer will need to aim to hit the target above. Take a measurement from the dot to where the arrows have grouped. If the arrows group above the dot then the archer needs to aim the same measurement under the target. If the arrows group below the dot then the archer needs to aim the same measurement over the target. If the arrows are grouped at the same height as the dot, then the archer aims directly at the middle of the target. Left or right arrows If the arrows are spraying left or right, then the archer usually has not anchored firmly enough on their face, they are not closing their non-dominant eye or they are throwing their bow arm upon release. Do not correct where the archer needs to aim but correct the archer’s form faults. String Picture When at full draw the correct position for the archer’s head is to be upright. This allows the archer to look at the target and the arrow by seeing them between the string and the bridge of their nose. When looking past the string let the tip of the arrow stick out just enough to allow the archer to see the point so they can continue to aim. Conclusion This method is a great way to help the novice archer understand gap shooting. It can be repeated over many distances and will allow the archer to develop their own gap system. As the archer becomes more familiar with the gap system they will be able to look at the target while keeping the arrow in their peripheral vision.


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Appendix B

Stretching Exercises It is important to warm and stretch the muscles we are going to use before we start shooting. In all sports a warm up is essential to injury prevention. Below are stretching exercises recommended to get the upper body prepared for drawing and shooting a bow. Hold each stretch for the count of ten seconds. The exercises should be done on both sides of the body to give even stretch and flexibility. Leg stretches are also advisable prior to walking onto the field range.

Shoulder & triceps stretches Shoulder stretches

Neck stretches


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Stretches for forearms

Chest stretches.

Stretches used to stretch chest: the archer pushes their arms against the person holding their arms


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Appendix C:

New Archers Equipment Check Off When you have a new archer attend your club with archery equipment the following Check List must be completed prior to the New Archer shooting the equipment. Use the New Archers Equipment Check Guide to help make your decision. Name:.......................................................................................

Bow Type: Compound Recurve Longbow

Bow Make:..................................................

Bow Model:.................................................

Poundage:..................................... (That the bow is set at)

Draw Length:................................. (That the bow is set at)

Only tick off if equipment is in good order - do not allow the archer to shoot unsafe equipment.

Check the Bow for the following

o Limbs

o Riser

o Arrow Rest

o Strings & Cables

Arrows

o Shaft

o Spine

o Fletches

Other Equipment

o Quiver

o Finger tab / Glove

o Release Aid

Club Instructor / Coach: ......................................... Signed:..............................................

Date:............................. Club Instructors / Coach accreditation number:.............................. (IFAA No)

International Field Archery Association


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Appendix D: New Archers Competency Check List

To be filled out and signed off by the Accredited Club “Field Archery Instructor” or “Field Archery Coach” and a copy forwarded to the Branch Coach within one month of archer attending the club. The original copy is to stay at club. The new archer will receive a competency card on completion of Competency check. Date:..................................... Name of Club:........................................................... Name:......................................................................... DOB:..................................................... Address:........................................................................................................ ........................................................................................................ Phone:.............................................................. Email:.................................................................. <- Must be legible Signature:........................................................ If under 18 years must be signed by parent or Guardian Bow Safety - Must be ticked prior to moving to the Field Range Check equipment is safe (for person bringing their own equipment) – (“Equipment check list” ) Check the bow is right for archer – Draw length Draw weight – make sure bow can be drawn safely & with control Arrows to suit Poundage

Skill Competency – Must be ticked prior to moving to the Field Range Dominant eye test Basic Stance Load Bow Correctly Hook-up (Fingers or Release Aid) Correctly Understand Pre-Aim technique Draw Bow correctly Establish an acceptable anchor Understand the concept of Instinctive and Gap shooting Release the string in an acceptable manner Understand the Follow Through

Safety Competency – Must be ticked prior to moving to the Field Range Safety – (Read safety chapter to archer) Understand & abide by the Club Rules and Branch By-Laws Introduction to basic idea Field Archery rounds

Club Instructor / Coach: ......................................... Signed:............................................. Date:............................. Club Instructors / Coach accreditation number:...............................(IFAA No)



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Appendix E


Instructors Log Book Instructors Name:........................................................................................

Instructors Level:.............................................................

Instructors ID: .......................

Date Name of archer or Group Time Details


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Appendix F

A Glossary of Archery Terms

Anchor This is also called the “Facial Reference”. It is the facial contact and final position the archer brings the bow string to prior to aiming.

Arm Guard A purposely made piece of leather or vinyl worn on the inside of the bow arm to protect the forearm from the bowstring during shooting. It protects the arm from being hit by the bow string.

Arrow Rest An extraneous device on the bow to provide a contact point. It is also a resting point, or shelf to support the arrow

Back of Bow The side of the bow that faces away from the shooter. Bare Bow Shooting a bow without a bow sight. Belly of Bow The surface of the bow facing the archer during shooting (also the face) Bow Arm The arm that holds the bow Bow Press A mechanical device used to relax the pressure on the bow limbs to allow work

on a compound bow, e.g. replacing cables Bow Window The cut out section on the arrow side of the bow to allow the arrow to pass

through or near the centre of the bow. Butt The backing that the target is attached to and which the arrow penetrates. Brace Height A term describing the height in measuring the distance between the bow and

the string when the bow is strung. Cams The irregularly shaped wheels at the end of the limbs of a compound bow. Cant Tilting of the bow to the left or right Compound Bow A modern bow with a system of pulleys and wheels designed to maximize draw

weight while minimizing the hold weight. Creeping Letting the drawing hand (the hand on the string) edge forward when at anchor. Draw To Pull the bow string back to anchor. Draw Weight The force (in pounds) needed to pull back the bow. Dry Fire Shooting the Bow without an arrow on the string. If this is done the bow may

explode. Never shoot your bow without an arrow nocked onto the string. End A number of arrows shot at one time, as required by the particular archery ` round being shot at that time. Finger Tab A manufactured piece of leather or vinyl worn over the fingers during shooting

to protect the fingers. It also allows for a smoother release. Finger Shooter An archer who draws the bow back using fingers placed on the string. Fletching The feathers or plastic vanes attached to the arrow to stabilize flight. Follow Through Holding the release position after completing the shot until the arrow has hit

the target. Also analysis of the shot. Form The structure of an archer while executing their shoot routine. Eg: an archer

may have good or bad form. Glove A three finger glove specifically manufactured for fingers shooters. Grip The handle of the bow. Also the way the archer holds the bow. Launcher An arrow rest designed to be used for Release Aid shooters. The launcher aids

in stabilizing the arrow upon release. Limbs The two ends of the bow from the riser outward. The limbs bend which give

the propulsion to the arrow when fired. Nock The plastic device on the end of the arrow that attaches the arrow to the string. Nocking Point The marked place on the bow string where the arrow nock is placed. Over Bowed Using a bow that is too strong for the individual. Over Draw Drawing the bow back too far, so that the arrow tip passes the face of the bow.


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Peg The marker used to set out where the shooter is to stand while shooting each target on the field range.

Peep The small sight opening that is fixed to the string for the archer to sight through.

Plucking Flicking the string with the fingers on release leading to a sideways force on the arrow. The string should be allowed to simply roll off the fingers.

Point The tip on the end of the arrow. Quiver A holder to contain the arrows. Recurve Bow A type of bow with curved back limbs Release To let the bow string slip out of the finger tips. Or to depress the trigger on a

release aid to release the string. Release Aid A mechanical device used to hold and release the string. Riser The central part of the bow. This is the solid and unmoving part of the bow. Round A shooting session where a set number of arrows are shot at a set number of

targets. Serving The thread wrapped around the bowstring at the ends and middle of the string

to prevent fraying of the string. Shaft The main body of the arrow. Sling A piece of cord attached to the fingers of the bow hand to help prevent bow

torque. Spine Refers to the stiffness of the arrow. The spine of the arrow must be matched to

the draw weight of the bow. Stabiliser A weighted rod attached to the front of the riser that absorbs the shock on

release of the bow. Torque Movement of the bow in the hand often caused by the archer gripping the bow

too tightly. Trajectory The curved path the arrow follows to the target. Vane The plastic “feather” on an arrow. Windage The amount of drift in the flight of the arrow caused by the wind. Window The cut out section on the arrow side of the bow to allow the arrow to pass

through or near the centre of the bow.


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Acknowledgements

This book contains extracts from the Australian Bowhunters Association Field Archery Instructors and Level One Coaching Manuals. These have been compiled and written by Lynne and Peter Fairhall, with input from past Australian coaching officials, Peter Macy, Robert Wilson and Gary Nichols. Annexures are by courtesy of: HuntersFriend.COM

Great influence has been derived from Mr Ki Sik Lee and his teachings as well as Mr Ray Axford and “The Anatomy of Archery”.

The IFAA Coaching Development Committee: Trevor Irvine

Alessandro Salvanti Juan Oosthuizen Anu Uusmaa Daniel Rae Thomas Colclough Have assisted in putting their ideas into the development of this program.

“The NSW Archery Coaching Academy” (owned and operated by Lynne and Peter Fairhall) Archery for School Sports Program as well as the training programs developed by Lynne and Peter Fairhall for the “Hunter Academy of sport”.

The NFAA instructors programs have also had influence as to the direction with which the IFAA instructors and coaching programs have developed.


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Selecting a Compound Bow

Introduction Like many products, compound bows come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colours, and levels of sophistication. If you’re new to the sport of archery, we’ll guide you through all the jargon and technical hoopla and help you to make a better-informed choice on your new bow. If you're not already familiar with the components of the compound bows, please take a moment to examine the illustration at right. Note the red lines denoting brace height and axle to axle length, as these attributes are mentioned frequently in this guide. Keeping Things in Perspective Undoubtedly, the modern compound bow is a fantastic piece of equipment. But let's try to keep things in some reasonable perspective. Before you're swayed by an advertising campaign promising exclusive-technology and predatory bliss, try to keep in mind that the compound bow is still a relatively simple device. The compound bow is constructed from readily available materials, it has only a handful of moving parts, and it isn't yet micro-processor controlled. So there's only so much technology which can realistically be applicable to the design and production of a compound bow. However, most bows are specifically marketed as a "high-technology" product. Why? Because bow companies know what modern archers want the most - an edge - particularly a "technological edge". Bowhunting has a historically low success rate, so it is no surprise that compound bow advertising campaigns focus on offering bowhunters a "technological" advantage - even if it's a little stretch of the truth. They also know that outdoor product consumers love big scientific words and impressive acronyms. So beware. Your new compound bow could be packaged with a few Ultra-Lite Hyperpolyresin fibres of CBT (cock-n-bull technology). The Brand Name Cult. The archery industry is often plagued by a "better than your bow" mentality - as brand loyalty seems too often get out of hand. Some bow manufacturers even seem to develop a cult-like following of shooters - who'll openly malign any other brand of bows (just

ANNEXURE 01 Courtesy of HuntersFriend.COM


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visit an online archery forum). This is unfortunate for beginning archers who could receive one-sided brand-x advice - which may or may not lead to a good bow purchasing decision. So beware of any advice declaring one type or brand of bow to be "the best". Imagine being told that a Subaru, for example, is "the best" kind of car - and that every other brand was totally inferior. Ridiculous right? The Subaru is certainly a fine automobile, but it's not appropriate or practical for everyone. There are many other high quality brands and models you could choose from. The same is true for compound bows. The Point: There is no "best" brand or "best" type of compound bow, so don't barricade yourself in too deeply on any particular bow manufacturer's ranch. The bow that is best for you is the bow that best fits your purpose, your size and strength, your shooting style, your skill level, and your budget. Statistical Deception in Advertising. If Brand-X shoe company paid the world’s 50 fastest sprinters to wear only Brand-X brand shoes during competitions, it would be no surprise that most of the big races would be won by athletes in Brand-X shoes. Would it be fair then to conclude that Brand-X shoes make runners go faster? Of course not! But the company could make it seem that way if they advertised the race statistics without mentioning the paid endorsements. Sadly, some archery manufacturers use this same little trick to entice buyers, and it usually works. Beware of advertising campaigns that lead you to believe their brand of bows are more accurate, and tempt you with "stacked" statistics on how many tournaments their bows win. The Point: Bows don’t win tournaments any more than shoes win races. The most talented runners win races and the most talented shooters win archery tournaments. Many factors are involved in accurate shooting (proper fit, careful tuning, good technique, etc.). A good high-quality bow is just one part of the equation. Understanding Trade Offs. There are many characteristics that archers look for in a new bow. Most archers want a bow that has blazing fast performance, a silky smooth draw stroke, very low hand-shock, a generous valley, and high let-off. Most archers also want their bows to be very lightweight, compact, quiet, forgiving to any flaws in technique, easy to tune, easy to adjust, and affordable for any budget. Unfortunately, this perfect bow doesn’t exist. To get a bow with a certain set of characteristics, you’ll likely have to sacrifice some others. For example, very fast bows are generally less forgiving, low recoil parallel-limb bows are generally heavy, and so on. Ultimately you’ll have to decide which characteristics are most important to you and choose the bow that best fits your personal criteria. Limiting Factors of Compound Bow Performance Since speed is often the #1 consideration for new bow buyers, let's begin with the issue power. First, we need to understand that bows don't make energy. They just convert energy from one form to another, so the chief performance-limiting factor is human power. So what makes a bow more "powerful" is quite unlike what makes a rifle more powerful. For a


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firearm, the "power" comes from the cartridge, not from the shooter. So providing you can withstand the recoil, you could shoot a gun for hours without ever breaking a sweat. With a compound bow it is just the opposite. Don’t be fooled into thinking that a bow capable of shooting 340 fps is somehow "more powerful" than one that shoots 300 fps, and that the effort required to draw and shoot each bow will be the same. In general, if a bow shoots faster it is because it requires more total effort to draw the bow back. A compound bow is simply a machine that stores energy, supplied by the shooter and then releases that energy into an arrow. And sadly, you can’t get more energy out of the bow than you put in. No amount of high-tech engineering can change that. The Point: The compound bow gets its energy from YOU. So if you choose a bow that takes an eye-bulging amount of effort to draw back, you may find that the bow isn’t very enjoyable to shoot in spite of the gains in arrow velocity. Energy Storage and Release. When you pull the string of a compound bow, the limbs of the bow are squeezed inward. The energy you supplied to draw the bow is stored in the limbs, as potential energy, until you release the string. Upon release, the potential energy is transferred into the arrow as kinetic energy, as the limbs "spring" back into place returning the string to its original position. Seems simple enough! But careful examination of this process of storing and releasing energy is what gives a compound bow its performance characteristics, and it is something you should consider when selecting your new bow. The Point: In essence, there are only two factors that determine how much "power" your bow will have: 1) The amount of energy that can be stored in the limbs during the draw stroke. 2) The amount of that potential energy that can be successfully transferred into the arrow

upon release (efficiency). Force-Draw Curve. So how is one bow capable of a 330 fps IBO Speed, while another only shoots 290 or 300 fps? Again, it's all about energy storage. As noted above, the key ingredients to arrow speed are draw weight, draw length, and arrow mass. But there's more. The amount of energy a bow stores also depends upon the aggression (geometry) of the cam or wheel design, the bow's let-off percentage, and the bow's brace height. To better understand how each plays its role, you should familiarize yourself with the Force-Draw Curve. The Force-Draw Curve is simply a graph that shows how much


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energy is being stored in the limbs, inch-by-inch, until the bow reaches full draw. Draw weight (in pounds) is plotted against draw length (in inches). The green line represents the amount of pressure the shooter must supply as the bow is drawn back. Notice that draw weight varies throughout the draw stroke (an important point for later in our discussion). When finished, the graph shows the amount of energy stored during the draw stroke, and the shape of the graph also gives us a good preview of the bow’s performance characteristics and how smooth or radical the bow will feel to shoot. Take a look at the following example graph and familiarize yourself with it. Area Under the Curve (no calculus required) The Force Draw Curve (above) represents an average modern single-cam compound bow. The amount of energy the bow stores is represented by the darkened grey area under the curve. The more grey area you have, the faster the bow will shoot. So how do we get more grey area? Just change the shape of the curve. Of course, changing the shape of the curve requires changing the bow's major characteristics. This is where draw length, draw weight, cam design, let-off, brace height, and other attributes come into play. The Bow’s Draw stroke. The curved line on the force draw curve represents the bow’s draw stroke, commonly known as the power stroke. The power stroke represents your effort. The power stroke begins as you pull the string back from the resting position and is completed when the bow reaches full draw. Each bow will have a different power stroke depending upon its settings and cam characteristics. Power strokes which are longer, higher, or wider will result in increased energy storage and arrow velocity. Theoretical Limits. If speed were the only goal, a Force Draw Curve shaped like this one (Graph 1) would yield the greatest possible amount of stored energy for any bow at 70# max draw weight and 30" draw length. Of course, a bow like this would be nearly impossible to aim and shoot. With a 0" brace height, the string would rest on the bow's handle, and would nearly chop off your hand with every shot. And the bow would have no let-off, leaving you to hold back the entire 70# until release. A bow like this would be far more dangerous to the archer than it would be to the game animals. And although this graph is only a theoretical example, it can help us to understand how today super-cam bows are yielding faster arrow speeds than ever before. But beware! The closer a bow's Force Draw Curve comes to the theoretical limit graph, the more difficult it is to draw, shoot, and control.

Draw Weight - Height of the Power stroke.

The primary method for increasing the amount of stored energy during the power stroke is to shoot a bow with a higher maximum draw weight. All other things being equal, a 70# bow will


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store more energy and shoot faster than a 60# bow. However, this is a complicated issue you should consider carefully when selecting your new compound bow. The maximum draw weight of the bow is typically determined by the stiffness of the bow’s limbs. Compound bows come in

a variety of maximum draw weights, but the most common are the 50-60# and 60-70# versions. Although you may purchase a bow with 70# limbs, you can generally adjust the draw weight 1-10# down from the maximum weight. So a 70# bow could actually be adjusted for 61#, 64#, 67#, or any draw weight within the allowable range. However, it should be noted that a 70# bow, turned down to 60#, will not perform as well as the same bow in a 60# version operating at its maximum draw weight. Bows are generally more efficient at or near their maximum draw weight.

Recommended Draw Weight Ranges (Modern Compound Bows) Here are some general guidelines for choosing an appropriate draw weight. Of course, each individual is different. You should apply your common sense here and interpret this chart with due respect to your own age, general physical condition, and Body Mass Index (BMI). Selecting a Draw Weight There are several factors to consider here, beyond just brute strength. First and foremost, we strongly recommend that you choose a draw weight that is COMFORTABLE for you and suitable for your particular purpose. Particularly for the purposes of recreational archery, a bow with too much draw weight will simply make you less successful and the sport less enjoyable. A good rule-of-thumb is to choose a draw weight that requires about 75% of your "maximum" strength. If your bow is too heavy, and you can only shoot a few times before you're fatigued, then you'll be reluctant to practice and improve your game. But you also want your bow to shoot with as much speed and power as possible, so you shouldn't choose too little weight either. Again, the right balance between comfort and performance - for YOU - will probably be at your "75%" mark. Heavy Draw Weights.

If drawing your new bow makes you appear to be on the verge of a haemorrhage, it's unlikely you're going to enjoy the sport. While most of us guys understand the importance of preserving machismo, the truth is, shooting too much draw weight won't provide any benefits at all. Some compound bows are actually available up to a 100# draw weight. And while there may be some specific applications where such a bow may be necessary (African big-game hunting perhaps), for the vast majority of bowhunting and recreational archery applications, a super-heavyweight bow is completely unnecessary (commonly referred to as being "over-bowed").

All things in Moderation.


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However, you may not want to choose an excessively light draw weight either (being "under-bowed"). Heavier draw weights will undoubtedly yield better kinetic energy (penetration) and quicker arrow velocities with less parabolic arc in flight. The "archery muscles" used to draw a bow are primarily large muscle groups in your upper back (the same muscles you use to row a boat or pull-start a lawn mower). Most people don't specifically work to exercise these muscles. So you will probably find that once you do put them to work, your "archery muscles" will gain strength quickly and drawing your bow will become easier over time. Fortunately, most bows come with at least 10 lbs. of draw weight adjustment. So if you are a new shooter, you may wish to begin with your bow set at a lower draw weight - and gradually "crank-up" the draw weight as you become more conditioned.

General Recommendations

Here are some general guidelines for choosing an appropriate draw weight. Of course, each individual is different. You should apply your common sense here and interpret this chart with due respect to your own age, general physical condition, and Body Mass Index (BMI).

Very Small Child (55-70 lbs.) 10-15 lbs. Small Child (70-100 lbs.) 15-25 lbs.

Larger Child (100-130 lbs.) 25-35 lbs. Small Frame Women (100-130 lbs.) 25-35 lbs.

Medium Frame Women (130-160 lbs.) 30-40 lbs. Athletic Older Child (Boys 130-150 lbs.) 40-50 lbs.

Small Frame Men (120-150 lbs.) 45-55 lbs. Large Frame Women (160+ lbs.) 45-55 lbs.

Medium Frame Men (150-180 lbs.) 55-65 lbs. Large Frame Men (180+ lbs.) 65-75 lbs.

Note: IFAA recommends that a bow that is used exclusively for archery competitions such as Field archery and Indoor archery should not exceed 50 lbs. In tournaments where less arrows are shot (3D) and unmarked events the draw weight can be increased …… as long as the arrows speed does not exceed 300 fps

Draw Weight - Effect on Arrow Velocity. High poundage bows require heavier, stiffer arrow shafts. So while they will certainly generate more energy at the target, they may not necessarily generate much faster arrow speeds at IBO standards. Lower poundage bows can use lighter, more limber arrow shafts. IBO standards allow 5 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight 1. So a 70# bow can shoot an arrow (safely) as light as 350 grains. A bow set for 60#, no less than 300 grains and so on. So surprisingly, when set for IBO minimum standards, many bows are only fractionally faster in the 70# version vs. the 60# version. Since a 70# bow must shoot the heavier arrow, the savings in arrow weight offsets the loss of energy storage during the power stroke. So properly set-up for best speed, a 60# version of most bows will perform within 10 fps of the heavier 70# version.


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Note 1: This only applies for modern compound bows. Older compound bows will require a much higher arrow weight to pound draw weight ratio!

Draw Weight - How Much is Necessary. Some states require a compound bow to meet certain draw weight minimums in order to hunt large game. Always observe the rules and regulations for legally harvesting game in your country. However, it should be noted that some of these rules have been in effect for many years, and do not necessarily consider the recent technological advances in archery manufacturing. The average bow of 15 years ago was struggling to shoot 230 fps, and even at those speeds many bowhunters got clean pass-through on large game like Whitetail Deer. Today the average bow is shooting over 300 fps at 70# draw weight and 30" draw length. This means that even bows in shorter draw lengths and lower draw weights will still provide plenty of velocity to penetrate the ribcage of a Whitetail Deer and other large game. A modern single cam bow with a 50# peak draw weight and just a 26" draw length will still zip arrows well over 220 fps. Of course, if you plan to hunt larger game like Elk or Moose, or if you plan to take shots from longer distances, you will need additional kinetic energy for complete penetration and best chance of a humane harvest. As a general rule, a 40-50# draw weight will provide sufficient energy to harvest deer and a 50-60# bow will provide sufficient energy to harvest larger elk-size species. Unless you're planning to hunt huge animals like Cape Buffalo or Musk Ox, a 70+ pound bow really isn't necessary. You can often be just as effective with a more moderate draw weight. Draw Length Basics. Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to virtually any length, a compound bow will draw back only a specific distance before it stops (the wall). Compound bows are designed to be shot from the full-draw position. If a compound bow is set for a 29" draw length, it should always be shot from the full 29" draw position. But the bow cannot be over-drawn, say to 30" or 31", without modifying the setup on the bow. So the draw length on your compound bow must be set to match your particular size. Fortunately, most compound bows use a series of interchangeable or "sliding" cam modules, which allows the bow to be adjusted to fit a given range of draw lengths. If you don't know your draw length, you should determine that before shopping for a new bow. Most men's bows adjust within a typical 26-30" draw length range, which fits shooters from roughly 5'5" to 6'3". But that's not true for every bow. Some bows have a narrow range of adjustment, or in some cases, no adjustment at all. So step #1 in selecting your new bow is finding a model will adjust to suit your particular draw length. Of course, if you have an unusually short or long draw length, your choices may be limited. So you'll need to take particular notice of the bow's advertised draw length range. Draw Length Affects Power. The longer your draw length, the longer your bow's power stroke will be - and the faster your bow will shoot. As a general rule, 1" of draw length is worth about 10 fps of arrow velocity. So if your particular bow has an IBO speed of 300 fps, and you intend to shoot the bow at 27" draw


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length - you should expect an approximate 30 fps loss in speed right off the top. But this is one area where speed should be a secondary concern. If you're 5'9", it would seem ridiculous to buy a #13 shoe for your #10 foot. Similarly, it's not such a good idea to buy a 30" draw length bow, when a 27" or 28" draw length would fit you much better. Shooting an excessively long draw length will indeed earn you more speed, but to get the extra speed you're likely to give-up a considerable amount of control and comfort. It's a bad trade-off. As such, we strongly recommend you NOT shoot a draw length that's too long for your particular body size. Accuracy should never be sacrificed for a little more speed. After all, a fast miss is no more impressive than a slow miss. Nonetheless, the majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much draw length, which results in poor shooting form - inaccuracy - and painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy and be more successful with your new bow when it is fitted properly to your body. And REMEMBER! If in doubt, choose a little LESS draw length rather than a little more. Cam Aggression. Of course, choosing a good bow isn't just about finding one that fits. You'll also want to choose a bow that offers the right blend of performance and accuracy. This is where cam design comes into play. Modern cams come in a variety of feels and levels of aggression. Some cams are specifically engineered to produce a smooth feel. Others are made for best possible performance. The actual geometry of the cam system determines how soft or aggressive the power stroke will be. Take a look at the additional sample graphs below, taken from bows with different types of popular cam systems. • ROUND WHEEL/LESS AGGRESSIVE: As you can see, a Round Wheel style bow has a very smooth bell-

shaped curve which rises to peak weight for only a moment then gradually descends to full let-off. This cam style will feel very smooth and easy to draw, but will store the least amount of energy and shoot the slowest. Although this type of cam has been around for decades, some shooters still prefer the soft feel of this style cam - particularly instinctive-shooters and finger-shooters. So a number of manufacturers still offer bows with traditional round wheels or cam geometry ground to replicate the round wheel power curve.

• MEDIUM CAM/MODERATELY AGGRESSIVE: The Medium Cam graph is typical of today's basic single and hybrid cams. These cams are more aggressive, ramping to peak weight more quickly and then coming to full let-off more abruptly. So they tend to store up more energy than a Round Wheel bow, and shoot notably faster. However, a Medium Cam is sure to "feel" a little heavier than a Round Wheel bow of equal peak weight. This type of cam geometry suits most shooters well, offering a reasonable blend of feel and performance. Medium cam bows will usually have moderate IBO speeds in the 295-310 range.


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• HARD CAM/VERY AGGRESSIVE: The last example is a Hard Cam system, optimized for maximum energy storage and speed. Notice how quickly the bow ramps up to peak weight and how quickly it transitions to let-off. Also notice the distinct high-plateau on the graph where the shooter must draw the bow over several inches at peak weight. This type of cam geometry will store dramatically more energy, and will usually have an IBO Speed of 320 fps or more. The downside is that Hard Cams feel harsh and heavy compared to other bows of equal peak weight. So they certainly aren't for everyone. But for shooters who want the hottest possible arrow speeds, the Hard Cam is the way to go.

The Valley. The "V" shape formed between the two halves of the graph is commonly referred to as the "valley", which represents how quickly the bow transitions to and from full let-off. A bow with a narrow valley is quick to "jerk forward" if you relax too much at full draw. On the other hand, a wide valley bow allows a little more leeway for shooters who tend to creep (a common shooting-form flaw). Aggressive hard-cams tend to have the most arrow valleys since delaying the let-off allows additional energy can be stored during the power stroke. But be advised, managing a narrow valley bow takes a little getting used to. If you're accustomed to an older soft cycle bow, an aggressive narrow valley cycle may be a little nerve-racking at first. Very aggressive cams can have valleys that are effectively less than 1/2" wide at full draw. This can cause creepers to jerk and flail awkwardly at full draw, since the holding weight abruptly changes if the bow isn't held firmly against the stops. So to avoid being sucked thru your Whisker Biscuit, be prepared to make some moderate changes in your shooting form if you elect to go with an aggressive cam bow. CAUTION: If you draw a high let-off bow without an arrow on the string, make sure you have a firm grip. High let-off bows are easily dry-fired. Once you draw the bow back and begin to relax, you're likely to forget that the full 70 lbs. is waiting for you, just an inch or two away. When you begin to let the bow down, your grip is too relaxed, and WHACK! DRY-FIRE! Dry firing a bow is not only dangerous to the shooter, but it is an ideal way to seriously damage your expensive compound bow and generally voids most manufacturer warranties. Brace Height. Brace height is yet another important factor in the energy storage equation. A bow's brace height is simply the distance from the string to the pivot point of the bow's grip. You can kind-of think of brace height as how close the string will be to your wrist when the bow is at rest. The closer the string is to your wrist, the more work you have to do to get the bow drawn back. If you're drawing a 6" brace height bow back to a 30" AMO draw length, you'll have to pull the string back a total distance of 22.25" before you reach full draw*. But if the string rests farther back from your wrist to start, say the bow's brace height is 8" and then you'll only have to pull the string back for 20.25". So the bow's brace height also figures into how LONG


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the bow's power stroke will be. And as you know, a longer power stroke generates more energy. As a matter of energy storage, brace heights are analogous to the length of the rubber-band on a slingshot. If you hold a slingshot at arms-length and pull it back to your cheek, a shorter rubber-band would be stretched for a longer distance (and shoot faster) than the same slingshot with a longer rubber-band. In much the same way, a short brace height bow stores more energy and shoots faster than a tall brace height bow (all other things being equal). So brace height has the same effect on total power stroke length as does the bow's draw length setting. The only difference is that the brace height determines where you start and the draw length determines where you stop. But unlike draw lengths, brace heights aren't adjustable. So you have to get this one right the first time. You can't change your bow's brace

height later, should you change your mind. If you compare brace heights and IBO speeds, you'll find an obvious correlation. Shorter brace heights tend to make for faster bows. Easy enough. Then it would seem that in order to get better performance from a compound bow, all you have to do is look for a model with a short brace height, right? Well, not so fast! Short brace height bows may be hot-performers, but they will come with a few drawbacks you should think about *A bow's AMO draw length is measured 1.75" beyond the grip pivot point. So a bow's power stroke distance is found by subtracting the brace height and 1.75" from the AMO draw length.

Brace Height - Speed vs. Forgiveness. If you’ve been shopping for a new compound bow, you’ve certainly noticed a variety of advertised brace heights, generally ranging from 5-9". But if shorter brace heights result in faster bows, then why aren’t all bows designed with short brace heights? Trade-offs! That's why. Short brace heights aren't automatically favoured because a bow's brace height has a profound effect on the bow’s forgiveness and accuracy. Short brace height bows are generally less forgiving and require more skill to shoot accurately. Since the arrow is in contact with the string for a longer distance and period, there is more opportunity for any glitches in your shooting form (hand-torque, trigger punching, etc.) to have a detrimental effect on the arrow’s flight. Longer brace heights have the opposite effect, limiting the effects of form glitches. In addition, very short (sub-6") brace height bows tend to yield more string-slap on the shooter's forearm (ouch!). So there are some trade-offs to consider here.


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If you shoot with absolutely perfect form and technique, a short brace height bow will be just as accurate as its longer brace height cousins. But if you have average skills and are prone to occasional goof-ups, a bow with a little longer brace height will yield better accuracy in most shooting situations. The average new compound bow has a brace height of approximately 7". Bows with shorter brace heights (5-6.5") will be faster but less forgiving to shoot. Bows with longer brace heights (7.5-9") will generally shoot slower but will be more forgiving to your errors. Consider this carefully when choosing your new hunting or 3D bow. Unless you have a specific need for a blazing fast bow, you may find that a more moderate brace height will increase your enjoyment of archery and your success in the field. SPECIAL NOTE: Tall guys with draw lengths 30" and above should be especially conscious of brace height - as a long draw length and a short brace height are a particularly bad combination, especially for new shooters. Brace Height Market Trends. Just as 300 fps seems to be the accepted IBO speed-minimum, 7 inches is the generally accepted brace height minimum in today's compound bow market. When reading Compound bow specification charts, you'll surely notice that a disproportionate number of bows are advertised with exactly a 7" brace height. This isn't by accident. Experienced shooters - particularly bowhunters - tend to avoid short brace height bows, regarding any brace height less than 7 inches as "radical" or "unforgiving". So a bow with a 6 7/8" brace height is often a lame duck - at least regarding bow sales. As such, most manufacturers try to aim to hit the market-pleasing 7+ inch brace heights on most of their new bow designs. As a matter of selecting a new bow, we submit there's probably no justification for such an exacting prejudice, as there's nothing particularly lucky about a 7" brace height. But that does seem to be the commonly accepted line-in-the-sand between performance and shootability. Short-Draw Archers - Built in Forgiveness. If you are a short-draw archer (27" draw length or less), you'll be pleased to know you have a nice advantage regarding forgiveness and shootability on your compound bow. As we noted earlier, a bow which has a 6" brace height and is set for long 30" draw length will have 22.25" power stroke. This means during the shot, the arrow will remain in-contact with the string for approximately 23-24" (including string follow-thru) until the arrow finally releases. This would generally make for a rather unforgiving setup. But that same bow in the hands of the short-draw archer will be considerably MORE forgiving to shoot. If a short-draw archer shoots the same bow at - say - 26" draw length, his/her power stroke will only be 18.25" long. So the short-draw archer's arrow gets off the string in a shorter distance - thus the short-draw archer has some "built-in" benefits of forgiveness. If you are a short-draw archer, don't spend too much time fretting over brace height. Instead, consider shooting a bow that's a little more aggressive. The same bow that might give your 6'4" hunting buddy fits will be quite manageable when set for your short draw length. And choosing a more aggressive bow will help you to recover some of the speed and power lost in a short-draw setup. Let-Off Basics. If you've ever shot a heavy recurve or longbow, you've certainly noticed that you're holding back the maximum draw weight just when you come to full draw, so you must aim and release the arrow quickly before you run out of steam or begin to shake. The original compound bow


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was designed to eliminate this problem, offering the shooter more time to aim and release the arrow. In contrast with the traditional bow, the draw weight of the compound bow decreases (sometimes dramatically) just as you come to full-draw. This is known as LET-OFF, which is controlled by the geometry of the cam system. Early compound bows featured a 35-50% let-off, a welcome relief. But today it is common for bows to have let-off in excess of 75%. A bow with a 70# draw weight and 80% let-off will require the shooter to hold back only 14 lbs. once the bow reaches full draw. Holding back such a small amount of weight, the shooter has the luxury to take more time aiming and releasing the arrow. Of course, some argue that you can have too much of a good thing. There is some concern that a bow can have too much let-off, making the bow feel "sloppy" at full draw. Maintaining some level of resistance at full draw is perhaps necessary to keep things in good natural alignment. However, the average archer will find the mid to high let-off bow to be more comfortable to shoot. Advanced archers and back-tension shooters often prefer a little less let-off. The only other disadvantage to a high (over 75%) let-off cam is a small reduction in arrow velocity vs. a lower let-off cam system. All other things being equal, a bow with 65% let-off will shoot faster than a bow with 80% let-off. However, the difference in speed is usually only a few fps. Fortunately, many cams use interchangeable modules which give you the option to easily switch between different available let-offs. Some cam systems even offer adjustable let-off right on the cam without the need for additional modules. If you would like the option to experiment with different let-offs, look for this feature on your new bow. While you're bow shopping, you may notice some bows are advertised with 2 different let-off percentages. There's a bit of a technical snafu here, so bear with us, this takes a little time to explain. Depending upon how you compute the let-off percentage, you can get two clearly different let-offs for the same bow, the "Effective" and "Actual" let-off. While you're drawing the bow back, friction in the bow's cables, cam bushings, cable slide, etc. adds a little draw weight to the cycle. Unfortunately, the extra energy you used to overcome that friction gets lost when you let the bow back down (or fire the bow). So basically, the bow doesn't put-out as much energy as you put-in. Some of the energy is stolen by friction (hysteresis).

Actual vs. Effective Let-Off Computation.

Due to hysteresis, it would take more energy to draw the bow all the way back than it would to hold it while slowly letting it back down from full draw. It's kind of an abstract concept, so imagine if we put a bow in a vice and then draw it back using a rope and winch. Now imagine we also had a spring scale hooked to our winch, so we would know exactly how much pressure was on the rope at all times. If we started drawing back the bow by cranking the winch, and watched the reading on the scale the whole time, the weight would go up and up until the bow reached its peak weight about 1/2 of the way back. If we kept cranking on back to full draw, the weight would drop-off as we arrived at the draw cycle's point of let-off (full draw). NOW! If


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we reverse our winch and slowly let the bow back down, we should expect the scale to read the same, just with the cycle in reverse, right? Nope! As soon as we begin letting the bow back down, all the readings will be slightly less than they were when we drew the bow back. This degradation or loss of effective draw weight due to friction forces is called hysteresis.

SO....to compute our percentage let-off, all we need to know is the bow's peak weight and its minimum weight at full draw. In the example above (blue line), the bow's peak weight is roughly 67# and the minimum weight is about 20#, which computes to a 70% actual let-off.

But when you measure the peak and minimum weight on the return stroke (red line), you'll get slightly different numbers. The minimum holding weight is clearly less on the return stroke (about 16#). So if you compute the 16# on the red line as a percentage of the original 67# on the blue line, you get 76% let-off. This is the bow's "effective" let-off. Why the mathematical trickery? Simply put, high let-off bows are better sellers. So it's pretty common for manufacturers to only list their effective let-offs, and make little mention of actual let-off. In fact, unless the manufacturer specifically notes the word "actual" in their let-off specifications, assume the let-off measurement is the effective variety. Cam Type Modern compound bows generally come with a choice of 4 different types - or styles - of cam systems. While they all accomplish a similar mechanical goal, they each have a unique set of attributes and respective advantages and disadvantages.


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• Single Cams. Often described as a Solocam or One Cam, the single cam system features a round idler wheel on the top of the bow and an elliptical shaped power-cam on the bottom. The single cam is generally quieter and easier to maintain than traditional twin cam systems, since there is no need for cam synchronization. However, single cam systems generally do not offer straight and level nock travel (though the technical debate continues), which can make some single-cam bows troublesome to tune. Of course, all single cams aren't created equal. There are good ones and bad ones. Some are very fast and aggressive; others are quite smooth and silky. Some offer easy adjustability and convenient let-off choices, others don't. But most single cams do offer reasonable accuracy and a good solid stop at full draw. Overall, the smoothness and reliability of the single cam is well respected. And the single cam is today's popular choice on compound bows.

• Hybrid Cams The Hybrid Cam system has gained considerable popularity over the last few years. The hybrid cam system features two asymmetrically elliptical cams: a control cam on the top, and a power cam on the bottom. The system is rigged with a single split-harness, a control cable, and a main string. Though originally invented and marketed by Darton Archery as the C/P/S Cam System, Hoyt's introduction of the Cam & 1/2 (a variation of the original C/P/S System) in 2003 brought hybrid systems into the limelight. Hybrid cams claim to offer the benefits of straight and level nock travel, like a properly-tuned twin-cam bow, but without the timing and synchronization issues. Indeed, hybrid cams require less maintenance than traditional twin cams, but it's probably a technical stretch to say that hybrid cams are maintenance free. They too need to be oriented (timed) properly for best overall efficiency and performance. There are several hybrid cam models available which are impressively fast and quiet, rivalling the best of the single cam bows.

• Twin Cams

A twin cam system is sometimes described as a Two Cam or a Dual Cam. The twin cam system features two perfectly symmetrical round wheels or elliptical cams on each end of the bow. When properly synchronized, twin cam systems offer excellent nock travel, accuracy, and overall speed. However, twin cams do require more maintenance and service to stay in top shooting condition. But thanks to today's crop of advanced no-creep string fibres, they are becoming increasingly easier to maintain. Many hard-core competition shooters are quite loyal to the twin cam concept. And it's probably worth noting that the twin cam bow is dramatically more popular outside of the US and Canada, where there is less advertising to hype the single and hybrid systems. Aside from maintenance issues, the only true disadvantage to twin cams is the tendency for increased noise (compared to typical single and hybrid cams).


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Nonetheless, the twin cam is still the cam system of choice for many serious shooters. Twin cams are also very popular choice for youth bows.

• Binary Cams

Introduced by Bowtech Archery as a new concept for 2005, the Binary cam is a modified 3-groove twin-cam system that slaves the top and bottom cams to each other, rather than to the bow's limbs. Unlike single and hybrid systems, there is no split-harness on a binary system - just two "cam-to-cam" control cables. This creates a "free-floating" system which allows the cams to automatically equalize any imbalances in the limb deflections or string and control cable lengths. So technically, this self-correcting cam system has no timing or synchronization issues and should achieve perfectly straight and level nock travel at all times. The only drawback is that without split harnesses to equalize the limb tips, slaved cams can be subject to cam lean - which realistically causes little to no shooting drama - but it stirs a lot of debate and complaint. Since 2005, many bow companies have licensed the slaved/binary concept through Darton, who has their own patented version of the slaved cam system. Only time will tell, but we strongly suspect that the binary cam and its variants will continue to gain popularity

Cam Type Hype. Cam technology (and its licensing to other bow companies) is the financial bread-n-butter for some bow manufacturers. So it's no surprise that they focus much of their efforts on marketing and promoting their particular cam style(s). As a result, this is one area in particular where CBT often gets out of hand. For example, if a cam is designed to feature an unusually deep string groove, the consumer won't see an ad that says "Now with deeper grooves in the cams". You're more likely to see something like, "Now featuring the CoreTrack™ XS4 Cam with Accugroove Technology". So don't be too swayed by high-tech sounding cam advertisements. Manipulating the geometry of a small piece of machined aluminium isn't exactly a clean-room technology. Cam Parity. While the technical subtleties and respective merits of the various cam systems could be debated in perpetuity, in the real world there is obvious performance parity among them all. This isn't to say that they all perform exactly the same. But to say that one cam style really offers a crucial field-advantage over another would be something of a stretch. They all accomplish the same basic mechanical goals and there are great-shooting bows available in all of the cam style categories. As such, we recommend you not be too cam-monogamous when doing your bow shopping. The cam system you choose probably has more to do with “who gets the check” than “who hits the Spot’’.


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Solid vs. Split Limbs. This is a tough one. Solid limb proponents claim that solid limbs offer better torsional stiffness and more accurate than split limbs. Split limb proponents claim that split limbs are more durable and produce less hand-shock than solid limbs. While we don't see much evidence to support either of these positions, it does seem clear that there is ebb and flow to solid vs. split limb thinking (and the way it's generally perceived by archery enthusiasts). Years ago, limb type (regardless of which side) was used as a selling feature. Makers of split limb bows would tell you how much better split limbs were than solid limbs, while their competitors did the exact opposite. But over the years, many of those manufacturers have crossed their own lines in the sand, and changed some, or all, of their bows to split from solid, or to solid from split. In spite of the seasonal marketing hype, many bow manufacturers are willing to switch back and forth as situations warrant. For example, Bowtech had always exclusively used solid limbs. However, for 2007 they introduced 2 new bows utilizing split limbs to accommodate a new riser design. The same flip is true for PSE and Mathews, traditionally solid-limb proponents, who have recently introduced split-limb bows in 2007 and 2009 respectively. So perhaps the choice of solid limbs vs. split limbs isn't really such a critical black or white choice for enthusiasts. Of course, you're bound to hear some marketing jabber about how one limb outperforms another. But in the field, solid and split limb bows perform similarly. Whatever your preference, limb type should be a minor consideration compared to the other bow design characteristics we've discussed. Weigh this bow attribute lightly. Beyond the aesthetic appeal, it probably doesn't matter. The type of limb installed on any particular bow is probably the limb type that works best with that particular riser, limb pocket system, and cam system. Bow Recoil - AKA, Hand-Shock. Some call it kick, or hand-shock, or refer to it as shot-vibration, but we're all usually referring to the same thing, recoil. Of course, a bow's recoil is rather backwards from that of a gun - pushing away instead of towards you. But the phenomenon is basically the same - an undesirable jolt at the point of the shot. Why does it happen? It's Sir Isaac Newton's fault of course. When a bow is drawn, the limbs compress back under tension.


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When the bow is fired, the unloading limbs jolt forward and return to their original positions. Since the cams are attached to the bow's riser, the inertia of the fast-moving limbs (Limb Thrust) causes the bow's riser to jump forward too. And since your hand is attached to the riser at the bow's grip, you feel the riser's abrupt movement as recoil. It's a natural by-product of such an explosive energy release, and on some bow designs it's quite noticeable - perhaps even detrimental. The Path to Recoil Abatement. Very little was said about bow recoil 20 years ago. Of course, there wasn't much that could be done about it at the time, and most enthusiasts went about their merry ways never knowing the difference. But as cam technology improved, and the compound bow began storing/releasing more and more energy, recoil became more of a centre-stage issue. By the late 90's, the average bow literally leapt out of your hand at the shot. The industry's immediate response was to develop dampening technologies. By the turn of the millennium, archery consumers were spending millions on rubber stick-ons, jiggley stabilizers, hydraulic whatchamacallits, and harmonic doo-dads in an attempt to reduce bow recoil. The whole industry seemed almost obsessed with it. Unfortunately, these aftermarket wonder products did little, if anything, to counteract forward limb thrust. In all fairness, they did make bows quieter, but they could not defeat the inertia of the forward thrusting limbs. Higher Limb Angles. So while the accessory manufacturers were busy making vibration analysis graphs and marketing dubious claims of oscillatory abatement, the bow manufacturers were digging into the root of the problem - limb thrust. The obvious solution was to reorient the limbs such that they didn't thrust forward upon release. But in order to do that, the limbs would have to be oriented almost horizontally - parallel with each other - such that they could load and unload vertically. That way the top limb would thrust upward, the bottom limb downward, and the opposing forces would cancel each other out. Of course, archery consumers needed a little time to warm up to the concept. After all, a bow with horizontally oriented limbs would hardly look like a bow at all. So over the next 5 years, bow manufacturers began to present bows with increasingly steep limb angles. And the steeper the limb angles got, the less recoil the bows seemed to have. As expected, archery consumers were sceptical at first. But by 2005, high limb angle parallel style bows were totally dominating the compound bow market. In fact, bows built today without parallel limb orientation are considered "classic" designs. Parallel-Limb Bows are Born. Creating a parallel-limb bow has not been without some manufacturing headaches Among the fundamental challenges, a parallel limb bow is built using a riser that's twice as long, and limbs that are half as long (that's an exaggeration - but you get the point). As you might expect, this


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precipitated a number of problems that took a while to solve. So early parallel limb bows showed some ugly signs of the learning curve. But season by season, the parallel limb designs got better and better. Today the market abounds with smartly refined parallel limb models which are arguably some of the best compound bows ever produced. And can you guess what they're all missing? Exactly...RECOIL. Today's parallel limb bows generate little to no forward limb thrust and offer the smoothest releases of any bows ever produced. Who's Your Daddy? So who do we thank for birthing the parallel limb bow? As you might expect, the various bow companies can't help but squabble about who deserves the credit - each spinning their own versions of how the technology was "created". But the fact is, the parallel limb concept isn't really an invention in the traditional sense. It's more of a fundamental change in thinking, like making a car more aerodynamic so it gets better mileage. We submit that the trend to parallel limb bows is more of an inevitable evolution in the bigger scheme of compound bow manufacturing. But in all fairness, a handful of the key manufacturers, like Bowtech & Mathews, were brave enough to stick their necks-out first and prime the pump. Parallel Limb Popularity Soars. Parallel limb bows have undoubtedly become the hottest-selling bows on the market. Even considering their once hefty price-tags, parallel limb bows have managed to become the new standard. And today, parallel limb bows are no longer just reserved for the $700+ elite buyers. By 2007, every bow manufacturer from Alpine to Reflex has adopted the parallel limb designs and the prices came back in-line. From 2009, there are some really nice parallel limb bows on the market for as little as $299. So it seems that the traditional D-shaped bows are destined for the bargain-bin and everyone can take advantage of the parallel limb innovation without paying the premiums of a few years ago. Parallel Neurosis Unfortunately, the parallel limb craze has precipitated an almost neurotic obsession with detecting and palm-analysing recoil - so much that buyers are practically ignoring other attributes. We see bow shoppers every day who shoot a bow just one time, then make their judgment based solely on how much recoil they feel. Some enthusiasts are so focused on recoil, or enamoured by the lack thereof, they almost forget to consider the bow's grip comfort, balance, and draw stroke feel. We suggest you not focus your attention beam so tightly on just how recoil-free a bow can get. If the bow has parallel limbs, the recoil is going to be low. So don't let all other characteristics get demoted to tertiary concerns. There's more to a good-shooting, good-feeling bow than just the absence of recoil.


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Are Parallel Limb Bows More Accurate? Probably not. While the parallel limb bow is notably smoother and quieter at the shot, there's no direct evidence to suggest a parallel limb bow is inherently more or less accurate than a standard D-shaped bow. In fact, target archery professionals still prefer the more upright standard limb designs. Of course, we must also consider that parallel limb bows tend to be short. Target shooters generally prefer longer axle-to-axle designs. And since target shooters aren't usually concerned about noise, or recoil for that matter, the parallel limb bow isn't as much of a phenomenon on the competition circuits. But for bowhunters, it's a different story. Within a typical bowhunters’ range, a parallel limb bow is likely to provide the same consistency and accuracy as any other style bow. Do All archers Love Parallel Limb Bows? Certainly not! Parallel limb bows don't appeal to everyone, as they have a few drawbacks of their own. While the generation-x buyers tend to love the radical batwing shape of parallel limb bows, we hear a number of more traditional buyers comment that parallel limb bows are "ugly". And perhaps it's a fair criticism. For those who appreciate the sleek lines and traditional appearance of a bow, the parallel limb bow is no beauty queen. A parallel limb bow isn't really even shaped like a bow. Of course, we hear that beauty is in the eye of the beholder ... and the market seems to indicate that the vast majority of new bow buyers are beholding the parallel limbs bows quite fondly. Nonetheless, some still haven't warmed up to the batwing physique. Parallel Limb Bows on the Chunky Side. As we mentioned earlier, parallel limb bows start with a very long riser. Since most of the bow's weight is in the riser, the parallel limb bow is typically 1/2 pound heavier than standard D-shaped bows. In 2001, the average compound bow weighed just 3.6 lbs. Today, that average is well over 4 lbs. You may in fact notice that the term "lightweight" has largely disappeared from bow advertising. The dilemma is balancing weight against structural stability. The longer a riser is, the stronger it must be. So there is only so much material the manufacturer can machine away (cut-outs in the riser) to reduce the riser's finished mass. So for now, parallel limb bow buyers will simply have to live with the extra weight. But we expect this situation will continue to improve over the next few seasons. Total Bow Mass. Interestingly, adding some mass to the bow isn't automatically a bad thing. Some shooters actually prefer a little more weight, particularly competition shooters. A heavier bow tends to be more stable at full draw and easier to hold steady while aiming. So in that respect, PLB's aren't necessarily a step backwards. On the other hand, some shooters clearly prefer the lightest bow possible - particularly hunters who hike long distances. Perhaps there is no right or wrong here, as this is clearly a matter of personal preference. But let's keep things in reasonable perspective. Less than 2 lbs. separates the very lightest from


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the very heaviest bows on the market. Unless you have a specific need for a very lightweight bow, you shouldn't spend too much time splitting hairs over whether you should get a bow that weighs 3.9 lbs. or 4.1 lbs., as it is likely you'll never notice the difference. Other design features should take much higher precedence in your selection of a new compound bow. How Long or Short Should I Go? First, as the name suggests, bows are measured for length from the centre of one cam axle (a round metal rod connecting the cam to the bow's limb) to the other. Please note that a bow will actually stand 3-5" taller than its published axle-to-axle length. This is because the cams extend well beyond the axles. So if you are buying a new bow and need the bow to fit into a particular case, or storage space, you should take this into account. OK. So how long should a good bow be? Compound bows range in length from well under 28" to over 45". But the average length is about 34"; dramatically shorter than the average bow of 15 years ago which was a staggering 43" long. So the market trend is certainly towards more compact designs, and what was once called a "short-axle" bow is now hardly considered mid-length. However, shooters take this attribute very seriously - as they should. Bows can be sorted by axle-to-axle length into one of 3 broad categories:

(Under 32") Short Axle Bow.

Short axle bows are very popular with Eastern tree stand hunters and those who want a compact, lightweight, and manoeuvrable bow. These bows are best shot with a mechanical release and require a little more practice for best long-range accuracy.

(32" to 38") Mid Axle Length Bow. Mid axle length bows represent the majority of the market and include most of today's most popular units. The mid-axle bow offers a good blend of manoeuvrability and long-range accuracy. This bow type is a popular choice for recreational shooters, Bowhunting newcomers, 3D enthusiasts and those who hunt from both the ground and a tree stand.


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(Over 38") Long Axle Bow Longer axle bows are sometimes called "finger-shooter" bows, as they offer a less acute angle at full draw for a more comfortable finger release. Long axle bows are usually the choice of serious competition archers and/or dedicated finger shooters, but they are often considered "too long" for tree stand hunting. However, many shooters still prefer the added stability of the longer axle bow.

There is no right or wrong here either. But the traditional wisdom is that longer bows are more forgiving, stable, and accurate. This isn't to say that a short-axle bow cannot be shot accurately. It just means that your technique will need to be more exacting - particularly at longer ranges. Nonetheless, the most popular bowhunting bows are 31-34" long. Much like the market trend with a 7" brace height, bowhunters largely regard bows under 31" as too short, and bows over 34" as too long. There seems to be some magic in the 31-34" bow. The most popular units of the last few years (Mathews DXT, Bowtech Admiral, PSE X-Force, Hoyt Alphamax, Diamond Iceman, etc.) all fall into this axle-to-axle length range. So it's no surprise that nearly half the bows on the market have similar axle-to-axle lengths. However, don't be swayed just by what's popular. Not every bow is suited for every shooter and purpose. For example, if you are a finger shooter, the acute finger-pinching string angle at full-draw will make holding back a short-axle bow quite uncomfortable. Most finger shooters look for bows with at least a 38-40" axle-to-axle length to avoid this problem. On the other hand, bowhunters who hunt exclusively from a tree stand often appreciate a small bow that can be manoeuvred around shooting rails, tree limbs, etc. So the right choice is the choice that's best for you. With all that said, if you're a new shooter, or plan to shoot at longer distances, we suggest you not choose the shortest bow you can find. Instead, choose a more moderate length bow to help tip the forgiveness scales in your favour while you learn the craft. Speaking of Forgiveness Forgiveness is quite a buzz-word in archery. More forgiving bows, more forgiving arrows, more forgiving arrow rests, etc. The term would imply that you can do things wrong, and everything will still be OK. Of course, this is a bit misleading. Even with the best equipment money can buy, a shooter still must possess a certain amount of skill. So when equipment is described as "forgiving", what does that mean? The term "forgiving" really means "forgiving to human errors", which is something that isn't easily quantified - and the reason the term is used so loosely. If we were to test a variety of properly-functioning bows in a mechanical shooting machine, the varying axle-to-axle lengths, brace heights, and cam characteristics would have no significant effect on the accuracy and repeatability of the bows. The shooting machine would shoot each bow exactly the same, each and every time. Unfortunately, humans cannot shoot with such mechanical consistency. We bobble; we flinch.


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We punch our triggers, or torque our grips. Even for the world's most talented shooters, accuracy is often limited to the occurrence of human error. And what makes a particular bow more or less "forgiving" is the bow's tendency to accentuate or attenuate these unavoidable human errors. Forgiveness Perspective Of course, we should keep the "forgiveness" issue in some perspective. Good technique and a solid practice regimen are critical to success in the field, regardless of which bow you ultimately choose. But the less forgiving your bow is, the more exacting your technique will need to be. But don't make more of this issue than need be. Within a typical 30 yard bowhunting range, virtually any properly-tuned compound bow can be shot with acceptable accuracy. And with a little practice, even a novice shooter can easily bring down big game within this range. So if you hunt in dense woods where 20 and 30 yards shots are common, your bow's "forgiveness" just isn't such a critical consideration. But if you shoot target archery, where you must be able to reach out to 50, 60, even 70+ yards, where the smallest glitch means a wound or a miss, you should be more selective with the bow design you choose. The Cause of Unwanted Vibration and Noise. There is no denying that some bows tend to be quieter than others. But you might be surprised to learn that bow noise is sometimes not from the bow at all. Before we can pick this issue apart, you should know a little about why bows tend to make noise. The sight flexes and distorts after the shot, the entire riser flexes, the string flops forward. If that happens to a state of the art parallel limb bow, one of the best bows money can buy; imagine what it would look like for a bow that is not built so well. It should obvious why bows make noise. Noise is caused by vibrations in the air. And firing a bow causes dramatic vibrations. When you fire your bow, everything on your rig momentarily dances and blubbers around violently: your limbs, your string, your sight, your quiver, the arrows in your quiver, etc. The whole rig! Of course, this all happens in a flash - so you don't see it. But you can sure hear it and feel it. And the more energy your bow has, the more vibration is tends to create. But...if the vibrations can be stopped quickly, before they have a chance to create sound, the result is a quiet bow. If the vibrations are allowed to continue and die-out naturally, the string will continue to "twang" and vibrations will transfer into the bow's riser and accessories. Not only does this create a 'buzzing" feeling in your hand (not recoil), the vibrations also cause any loose parts on the bow to make noise. Incidentally, in many cases shooters blame their bows for being noisy when in fact the accessories - particularly the accessory fasteners (screws) - are the true noisemakers. A tube-aligned peep-sight is also a common culprit for noise, as is a dirty cable slide. Whisper Quiet Bows. With so many possible ways for noise to be created, it's really quite misleading to advertise a bow as "whisper quiet". Yet, every bow manufacturer tries desperately to convince you that THEIR bows are the quietest. The fact is, no bow is whisper quiet. Even the quietest bows make a solid 70+ dB bark when they fire. But you can help minimize noise by using only quality accessories, installing good string silencers, carefully maintaining your fastener torques, and keeping your bow in good overall condition.


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And even with that, should your new bow be a bit noisier than you like, this is where the rubber stick-ons, jiggly stabilizers, and hydraulic whatchamacallits may come to the rescue. We strongly recommend you consider noise a function of your entire "bow system", rather than just the bow, and prepare to tackle it accordingly. Noise reduction begins with quality. Thoughtful construction, tight tolerances, quality parts, good maintenance, a professional setup, and strategic incorporation of dampening technologies all combine to create the quiet bow. It doesn't usually come straight out of the box. Attributes to consider. While weighing the different bow attributes boils down to a personal choice, we you suggest you give some attributes more consideration than others.

Not Important

Minor Consideration

Somewhat Important

Very Important

Critical Consideration

Brand Name X Axle to Axle Length X Brace Height X Cam Aggression X Cam Type X Let-Off Choices X Limb Type (Split/Solid) X Power/Speed X Proper Fit X Recoil (Parallel Limbs) X


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Discussing Draw Length

The "Perfect" Draw Length Your own "perfect draw length" is the draw length setting at which you are the most comfortable and the most accurate. There is no right and wrong, no absolutes. But it is unlikely that a 5'10" guy will be successful with a 30" draw length, and similarly unlikely that a 6'3" guy will shoot well with a 28" draw length.......not impossible - just unlikely. For some, a "perfect draw length" may be ultimately determined by feel (and some trial and error) rather than by calculation.

However, we still recommend a common-sense approach here. If you're new to the sport, you'll have better luck if you just play the averages and choose an initial draw length that's similar to others of your same size and stature. Fortunately, on most bows, making a minor draw length change is pretty simple. So it's not quite a life or death decision to start. However, as you become more immersed in the sport and begin to "fine-tune" your game, you may wish to experiment a little with your draw length.

Why Draw Length Matters

More Draw Length = More Power

The longer your draw length, the longer your bow's power stroke will be - and the faster your bow will shoot. As a general rule, 1" of draw length is worth about 10 fps of arrow velocity. Bows are predominantly IBO Speed* rated at 30" draw length. So if your particular bow has an IBO speed of 300 fps, and you intend to shoot the bow at 27" draw length - you should expect an approximate 30 fps loss in speed. This is one of the reasons that so many archers choose inappropriately long draw lengths. So with regards to generating hot arrow speeds, tall shooters do have an advantage. However, shorter guys might feel better to know that short-draw archers do have a few advantages over taller shooters in other areas. Note: IFAA allows a maximum arrow speed of 300fps, irrespective of draw length!

Finding Your Anchor Point

A properly set draw length helps you to establish reference points at full-draw - key elements to reliable accuracy. When you come to full draw, you will want to establish contact points between you and the bow. Hopefully, these points will be the same every time you draw the bow. Perhaps you'll concentrate on where your knuckle meets your ear or cheek (1), perhaps how the string



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touches the corner of your mouth (2), or how the tip of your nose just tickles the string below the peep (3). Whatever reference points you choose to monitor is up to you, but they are an important part of a consistent routine and collectively help you to establish your ANCHOR POINT for each shot. If you don't release each shot from the exact same ANCHOR POINT, your accuracy will always be mediocre at best.

Visibility Through Your Peep Sight

Perhaps the most critical alignment is that between your eye and your peep sight. If you're too far away from the peep sight (draw length too short) then your field of view through the peep is too restricted. And at such an angle, the peep's hooded area isn't large enough to block out the surrounding images that you don't want to see. So you must strain to ignore the outer images, and try to focus just on the objects within the peep's narrow angle of view. Seeing too little inside the peep, and too much outside your peep makes acquiring your target very difficult - even in broad daylight - and next to impossible in low light conditions.

Too Far From Peep Correct Distance Too Close to Peep

On the other hand, if you're too close to the peep sight (draw length too long), you get a different set of problems. As objects are moved very close to your eye, into your eye's Field of Proximal Convergence, your eyes naturally begin to cross (even if you have one eye closed). It's very difficult to "un-train" your eye reaction to this involuntary reflex - so sighting will always seem unnatural and strained when the peep is too close to the eye. A peep sight that's too close to your eye will also give you a jumbo field of view that makes precise aiming considerably more difficult. Shooting Form Problems

Draw Length too short:

If your draw length is too short, maintaining your reference points becomes more difficult. At full draw, your anchor point is effectively "floating". Without some physical contact at your reference points, it's very difficult to steady on target and make a repeatable shot. This also puts your eye too far away from your peep sight, as we discussed earlier. If your draw length is too short, you have to compensate by leaning into the string or bending your bow arm to give your body more contact with the bow. Unfortunately this causes most shooters to close-down their stance; hand-torque their bow to the right and tilt their head awkwardly to the side to see through the peep sight....not a good way to shoot.


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Draw Length too Long:

If your draw length is too long, you get a different host of troubles. Again, your peep sight will be too close to your eye and some or all of your reference points will be difficult to establish. To make matters worse, compensating for a long draw length will cause you to open your stance too far, hand-torque the bow to the left, push your shoulder out and away from your body (adding tension and inaccuracy to the aiming process), and to lean your head

back in an attempt to see properly through the peep. To add insult, opening your stance to compensate for an overly long draw length can put your bow arm (holding arm) in the path of the string. So a bow set for too much draw length will often reprimand the shooter with some alarmingly painful string-slap on his forearm. Ouch! When you're shooting a proper draw length, with the proper shooting form, your bow's string should NEVER touch your forearm. String-slap is a sure sign you're doing something wrong! Does a String Loop Change My Draw Length?

This is one of our most commonly asked questions, and it's a difficult one to answer - as it depends on your perspective. Does a string loop actually change the bow's draw length? Certainly not! The AMO/ATA specs for measuring draw length reference the actual bowstring at its nocking point - not necessarily the point of attachment from which it is drawn. So adding a string loop to a 29" bow DOES NOT make the bow a 29.5" draw length. However, using a string loop may give you the perception that your draw length is longer. Look at the diagrams above. This is the same bow, at the same draw length, drawn back first without and then with a string loop. Notice the pink lines referencing the relative positions of the crease of his index & middle finger to his ear. Clearly you can see that when using the string loop, his hand decidedly rests further back on his jaw (perhaps as much as an inch further back). But the distance between his eye and the peep sight, as well as the as well as the contact between his nose and string both remain the same. So it's a tough call. If you judge your fit for draw length by referencing where your release hand rests on along the side of your face, then yes - a string loop will make it feel as if your draw length is about 1/2"-1"


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longer. If you're a new shooter or accustomed to judging your fit for draw length by some other reference point - one not affected by a string loop - then no. How Precise Do I Need to Get?

This is another commonly asked question. How close do we have to get? Within an inch? Half-inch? A quarter-inch? This issue could be debated, as there probably isn't a right and wrong answer to this question either. But again, we recommend a common sense approach. For most shooters, a ±½" change in draw length is hardly noticed. To be realistic, half-inch sizes are probably precise enough (27½", 28", 28½, 29", 29½", etc.), particularly for the purposes of hunting and recreational archery.

However, we will be glad to adjust your new compound bow to any draw length you desire. If you would like your bow set to a very specific length, our pro-shop will gladly accommodate the request. But you should keep in mind that as your bow's string ages and stretches over time (as ALL strings do), your draw length will slightly increase - a little fraction at a time. So maintaining a razor-specific 28 & 13/16" draw length may be a frustrating endeavour.

Measuring Your Draw Length

Unlike a traditional recurve bow that can be drawn back to virtually any length, a compound bow will draw back only a specific distance before it stops (the wall). Compound bows are designed to be shot from the full-draw position. If a compound bow is set for a 29" draw length, it should always be shot from the full 29" draw position. But the bow cannot be over-drawn, say to 30" or 31", without modifying the setup on the bow. So the draw length on your compound bow must be set to match your particular size. When we setup your bow, we will adjust the bow for your precise draw length.

To measure your draw length, determine the length of your arm-span in inches. Stand with your arms out and palms facing forward. Don't stretch when measuring. Just stand naturally. Have someone else help you, and measure from the tip of one middle finger to the other. Then simply divide that number by 2.5. The quotient is your proper draw length (in inches) for your body size.

The majority of compound bow owners set their bows for too much draw length, which results in poor shooting form - inaccuracy - and painful string slap on the forearm. You will better enjoy - and be more successful with your new bow when it is fitted properly to your body. And REMEMBER! If in doubt, choose a little LESS draw length rather than a little more.


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If you are a person of average proportions, your arm-span will be roughly equal to your height (in inches). So there is often a direct correlation between a person's height and their draw length as well. Once you have computed your draw length using the method above, you can double-check yourself by using the scale below - to see if your number is within the expected range.

LONG DRAW SHOOTERS:

SHORT DRAW SHOOTERS:

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Eye Dominance Conflicts

Most right-handed people are right-eye dominant and most left-handed people are left-eye dominant. But this certainly isn't true for everyone. For some people, hand and eye dominance are opposite - which creates a dilemma for participating in the shooting sports. If you hold your hand out at arm's length and make a circle, then view an object across the room by looking through that circle, your brain must choose which eye will actually focus on the object. Since your eyes are roughly 3" apart, both eyes cannot maintain the direct line-of-sight to the object. So one eye must take over, and you'll naturally position your hand more to the right if you're right-eye dominant, or slightly to the left if you're left-eye-dominant. In either case, the eye that takes over and maintains the sight-line is the dominant eye.

There is another easy test for this. While looking through your circle, close one of your eyes. If your hand appears to "shift" suddenly to the side, the eye you have closed is your dominant eye. If you close one eye and nothing really seems to happen, then you have closed your non-dominant (recessive) eye. Of course, you can see the object with either eye, providing you just use one eye at a time. But if both eyes are open, your dominant eye will always take-over and demand the sight-line through the circle.

So what does all this have to do with shooting a bow? In some cases, nothing. If you plan to shoot your bow by closing one eye and sighting with the other, it doesn't really matter whether your hand and eye dominance match or not. However, most serious archers sight and shoot their bows with BOTH EYES OPEN. Shooting with both eyes open gives you a much brighter and more natural field-of-view, even when looking through a peep sight. The dominant eye focuses crisply and does the actual "sighting" through the restricted area of the peep sight, and the other eye "fills in the gaps" in the picture (though not in complete binocular focus).



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Field-of-View: One Eye Open

Field-of-View: Both Eyes Open

If you learn to shoot with both eyes open, you'll also notice another benefit. It's very easy to follow the flight of your arrow all the way to the target when shooting with both eyes open. But when you shoot with one eye closed, you'll often "lose" the arrow in flight because the peep sight jerks upwards at the shot, temporarily obscuring your line-of-sight. So shooting with both eyes open certainly has its perks.

But there is a catch. If you plan to shoot your bow with BOTH EYES OPEN, you must choose a bow that matches your eye-dominance, rather than your hand-dominance. Again, this is because the dominant eye will always command the sight line when both eyes are open. We'll explain. When you sight a bow, you basically have to manipulate your view to get all sighting elements in a straight line: beginning with your eye, then the peep, then the sight pin, then the target. So your dominant eye needs to be directly behind the string to line everything up. When the bow's sights are adjusted properly, your visual sight line should mimic the flight path of the arrow (not considering the arrow's parabolic arc). But with regards to the left and right aiming of the bow, the line-of-sight and path of the arrow should be the same.

When the bow is sighted with the dominant eye, everything works as it should. The line-of-sight and the path of the arrow are similar, and the arrow hits the target.

But if a shooter tries to sight the bow with the recessive eye while keeping both eyes open, the dominant eye takes over (even though it's not looking through the peep sight). The dominant


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eye commands the sight line automatically. This puts the first point of your line-of-sight, your eye, roughly 3 inches off to one side. To compensate, the shooter turns the bow dramatically towards the dominant eye. Unfortunately, when this happens, the sight-line and the arrow's path are no longer the same. The arrow misses dramatically left or right and "sighting-in" becomes all but impossible.

Truth is, right-hand bows are meant to be sighted with the right eye. Left-hand bows are meant to be sighted with the left-eye. And trying to force the issue otherwise is often a frustrating and futile act. Over the years, we've even witnessed a few shooters with eye-dominance conflicts try to lean over far enough to see through the peep sight with the outside eye. Of course, this creates an entire host of new ergonomic and shooting form problems, and it's a solution we strongly discourage.

For those with eye-dominance conflicts, the issue of right vs. left ultimately boils down to choice. If you are right-handed, you're of course a little stronger and more coordinated with your right arm. So naturally, you would want to shoot a right-handed bow. But, if you happen to be also be left-eye dominant, you have to make a choice. You must either shoot a right-handed bow and learn to sight the bow with one-eye squinted closed, OR you must adapt to shoot a left-handed bow so you can keep both eyes open and sight with your dominant eye. It's a difficult choice, and there is no right or wrong answer. However, we do make the following general recommendations.

1. If you are a new shooter, by all means, buy a bow that matches your eye-dominance so you can learn to shoot with both eyes open. If you have no old habits to unlearn, you'll probably adapt quickly to the off-handed bow and never know it was supposed to be awkward.

2. But if you are a long-time shooter (archery, rifle, pistol, etc.), and you're already accustom to closing your dominant eye when you shoot, you may find changing to an off-handed bow to be particularly awkward and frustrating. In this case we recommend you not make the change and stick with your current technique.

Again, there isn't a right or wrong decision here. Success in the shooting sports is often a matter of subtleties in form and technique, and everyone is different. Whichever method you feel will benefit you most and that will ultimately allow you to shoot most comfortably and accurately....that's the right choice for you.

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Selecting a Bow Sight

A bow sight is a device that's mounted on the riser of your bow that helps you to aim your arrow. Much like the bead at the end of a shotgun barrel, the bow sight simply helps tell you where your projectile is pointed.

Though it is possible to shoot your bow without a sight1, doing so is very difficult, especially at longer distances.

As such, virtually all modern compound bows are outfitted with some kind of sight. Used in conjunction with a peep-sight or kisser-button and a quality arrow rest, even novice archers can be surprisingly accurate.

Note 1: The IFAA recognises four bow styles that are shot without the use of a sight: Bare bow (Recurve and Compound): Bowhunter (Recurve and Compound) Longbow and Historical Bow.

Some bow sights are quite simple, like the one on the left. This is an example of a straightforward fibre-optic 3-pin composite (plastic) sight, with a Lexan pin guard, and twin pin tracks. Each pin can be positioned up or down in its track for elevation adjustments and each pin can be screwed in and out of the mounting bracket for windage adjustments.

This type of sight is very functional, isn't too difficult to adjust, and would be sufficient for most hunting and recreational applications. This type of sight is cheap and easily installs with just two allen head screws.

But as you might expect, sights come in a variety of styles and levels of sophistication. The second sight shown here is quite different - a rather complex sight with many added features. This machined aluminium and composite sight offers gang-adjustments (all pins can be moved at once) for windage and elevation, as well as adjustments for each individual pin.

This sight also incorporates more fibre-optics, vertical pin technology, a subliminal aiming ring, an anti-vibration device, camouflage finish, graduated scales, "no-tools" cam adjusters, pin lights, drilled and tapped quiver mount, and 3rd axis (torque) adjustments. In short, this type of sight is "loaded" with some premium features. Of course, these premium features don't come cheap. This sight considerable more than the first sight, and there are plenty of models



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even more advanced than this one. High-end competition sights can cost as much as 10-15x more than the first sight.

Note: The pin sights that are shown above are used in the IFAA Bowhunter Unlimited and Limited styles. Note that these styles may not use a bubble level as shown in the bottom picture and they should be taped over for IFAA sanctioned tournaments.

Major types of bow sights

Fixed-Pin Sights.

A fixed-pin sight is the most common type of sight, and the popular choice of hunters. A fixed-pin sight usually has 3 to 5 individual pins1, which can each be set for a particular known distance. The top pin is for the closest distance, the lower pins are for longer distances. Once set, the pins are tightened and remain “fixed” in position during use. Setting up and adjusting a fixed-pin sight is pretty simple, but it does require some trial and error testing. And for those shooters who take their time, and set each pin just right, the fixed-pin sight yields excellent results - as they’re very reliable and easy-to-use in the field.

Note 1: The IFAA requires 4 or 5 pins to be mounted on the sight to qualify for the bowhunter classes.

Most archers set their fixed-pins for easy-to-remember distances, usually in 5 or 10 yard increments. Once the pins are set, shooting known distances is a snap. If your target is 30 yards away, you simply sight the bow by placing your pre-set 30-yard pin on the intended target and then shoot. The sight does all the compensation for the change in the arrow‘s trajectory. But the tricky part comes when shooting unknown distances, as you must be able estimate the actual distance to the target, and choose the best pin for that distance. Mastering the skill of yardage estimation isn’t so easy, especially when shooting from an elevated position, over uneven ground, or through dense foliage. But it’s a skill every archer needs. If you set your pins for 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, there’s little chance that the target face or 3D target stands precisely at one of your pre-set distances. So in addition to accurately estimating yardages, a fixed-pin shooter must learn to compensate as necessary for intermediate distances for which no pin is set. If your target is 25 yards away, your 20 yard pin will shoot a bit too low - your 30 yard pin too high. So most fixed-pin shooters must learn to split the difference and hold somewhere between the pins, known as “gap-shooting”. Moveable-Pin Sights. A moveable pin sight is a little different. Rather than have multiple pre-set pins, a moveable pin sight usually has a single pin, which is adjusted before each shot. The moveable pin sight


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has a system of brackets, levers, or worm gears that smoothly slide the entire sight housing up and down, so the pin can be adjusted for any distance in just a few seconds. At the rear of the sight bracket, a small adjustable pointer indicates the yardage along a graduated scale or a series of handmade marks on white tape. Each mark represents a known yardage. So if you come upon a target which is 30 yards away, you simply move the pointer to the 30 yard mark and shoot. Unlike the fixed-pin sight with individual pins set for specific distances, the moveable pin sight can be adjusted to any distance just by moving the pointer. The user can have as many references (distance marks) as he or she wishes. In fact, providing you had enough patience and a sharp enough pencil, you could make a mark for every yard. Realistically, most moveable pin shooters make their yardage marks in typical 5 or 10 yard increments, and then use some system of compensation for intermediate yardages - much like a fixed-pin shooter. A typical moveable pin sight might be setup with marks for every 5 yards. So if your target is 27 yards away, you must adjust your pointer so that it is between the 25 and 30 yard marks. This system is actually quite accurate, as it allows yardages to be carefully adjusted on a scale, before the bow is ever drawn back. As such, moveable pin shooters often have an advantage over fixed-pin shooters. In fact, the IBO and ASA have separate competition classes for shooters using fixed-pin vs. moveable pin sights1.

Note 1: In IFAA tournaments movable pin sights may not be used by archers in the Bowhunter styles. An archer using such sight will be re-classified as being a “Freestyle” competitor.

Target Competition Sights (3D, Field archery, Target archery) A Target Sight is a specialty sight which is designed for use in competition. Due to the size, cost, and complexity of these sights, they are rarely used for hunting - but they are arguably the most accurate sights available. This Sight is essentially a fancy Moveable Pin Sight with a sophisticated system of windage and elevation click-adjustments. Target sights are larger too, usually mounting 6-12" forward of the bow's riser via a quick-disconnect dovetail system. Target Sights usually have a 10/32" threaded receiver which will accept a variety of aiming points (single pin, a scope-style sight, laser sight, etc.) which are all sold separately. Once accessorized and properly setup, this type of sight is amazingly accurate. But obviously, this sight isn't for everyone either. A good quality Target Sight with a quality scope and magnifying lens can be very costly. These advanced sighting systems are very well designed and are manufactured to the most exacting tolerances. But their usefulness is limited to applications where this type of precision is necessary.


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Fixed-Plate and Dovetail Mounts: Most sights are the fixed-plate design, meaning that the sight bracket is attached directly to the bow. A fixed-plate sight is generally mounted on the bow with two allen screws and the entire bracket and sight remain on the bow at all times. A dovetail mount is a little different. A dovetail sight works by mounting a separate small retainer bracket to the bow, which has a dovetail groove machined into it. The sight is fitted onto a separate extension bracket which is machined to fit the dovetail groove. To put the sight onto the bow, you slide the extension bracket into the retainer bracket and tighten some type of retaining nut (usually a large thumb screw). So the dovetail mounted sight comes on and off the bow very easily. The fixed-plate sight does not. As a general rule, hunters prefer the simplicity and reliability of the fixed-plate design. And it stands to reason, as there's typically no need to repeatedly take a sight on and off of a hunting bow. However, 3D and competition shooters often prefer the dovetail mount. A dovetail mount will allow the use of multiple sights - presuming they all share the same brackets. A serious competition shooter may use more than one sight (different sized pins, different magnifications, a back-up sight, etc.) and the dovetail mount makes changing the sights a snap. Also, dovetail sights tend to be longer - positioning the pins further away from the shooter for increased accuracy in competition. Of course, a bow outfitted with an extra-long sight generally doesn't fit into a standard bow case - so the sight must be removed after each use before the bow can be put away. In that respect, a dovetail mount is a very handy feature for long competition sights.

Major sight features

Fibre optic technology is primarily designed to carry digital information over long distances. But the hunting and shooting industry has found another use for this remarkable product. At the core of a fibre optic cable is a strand of optically pure glass or plastic. Surrounding the optical glass is a special coating called the cladding, which reflects the light back into the core. So when the translucent cable is exposed to sunlight (or any other light source), light gets effectively "trapped" in the core of the cable. At the end of the cable, where the core is exposed, the light is able to escape.

This creates a wonderful phenomenon that makes the tip of the cable appear to light-up - as if powered by a battery. And the longer the fibre-optic cable, the more light it can gather and the brighter the tip becomes. In the archery industry, these fibre optics cables have been put to use - not for data transmission - but as a sighting device. The small bright tip of a fibre optic cable makes an


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excellent aiming point on a bow sight. Even in low light dusk & dawn conditions, the tip of the fibre optic cable still stands out clearly - allowing the archer to aim and fire his bow.

Most of today's hunting sights are outfitted with some kind of fibre-optics pins. Most fibre optic sight pins have between 1/2" and 2" of fibre optic cable, usually situated behind the pin or wrapped around the base of sight pin. And this seems to be enough to provide an adequate increase in pin visibility. But a few manufacturers take the concept to the extreme - designing sights to specifically incorporate huge amounts of fibre-optic cable.

The sight on the left uses 24" long fibre optic cable coils for each pin. This produces a remarkably bright pin that practically glows in the dark. But before you choose this type of sight, be warned that you can have too much of a good thing. It may be possible for a pin to be too bright. Ultra-bright pins can often create a halo or starburst effect that can be very distracting - akin to looking into a bright light. As such, we recommend you choose pins that have reasonable amount fibre optics. Sight pins come in a variety of sizes; the most common are the .019", .029", and .040" pins. The smallest pins are the micro-fine .019" pins, available as an option on many of today's popular sights. These tiny pins allow for very fine shot placement with minimal loss of sight picture. However, tiny pins can be difficult to see in some conditions, and they don't shine as brightly as the larger .029" and .040" pins. Large .040" pins offer a brighter and more distinct aiming point, but they cover more of the target in the sight picture - which is especially noticeable when taking shots at longer distances, a trade-off to consider. Bubble Levels Many of todays mid to high grade sights now feature an integrated bubble level. This feature helps you keep your bow perfectly upright when shooting. Unlike Longbow and traditional shooters, who will often deliberately shoot with a tilted bow, compound shooters typically want their bows to be perfectly upright when fired. If you are tilting your bow to the right, your shots will land a little right. If you are tilting your bow to the left, your shots will land slightly left. In short, tilting the bow degrades your horizontal accuracy. And MANY shooters tilt their bows without ever realizing it. So the bubble level helps to add an element of consistency into your shooting routine. The only downside is that aligning the bubble level adds an extra step to your aiming process. But with practice, using the bubble level eventually becomes second-nature. And you'll be happy to know that they don't freeze in cold weather....they're usually filled with alcohol or chloroform.

Note: Only archers that shoot in the “Freestyle” divisions may have a bubble level incorporated in the sight or on the bow when shooting in an IFAA sanctioned tournament. In the Barebow division a bubble level is allowed as long as it is below the arrow rest and cannot be used as a reference point for aiming.

Bubble Levels for Left-Handers: Some sights are not made as RH or LH specific models. Some sights are intended to be universal for both RH and LH use. In this case, all sight functions generally remain the same


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regardless of whether the sight is mounted as a RH or a LH model. However, if this kind of sight comes with a bubble level, the bubble level will appear at the top of the sight for left-hand users. But not to worry, a straight bubble level will perform just as well at the top of the sight aperture as it will at the bottom. But please note that a few bubble levels are cambered (curved) and cannot be used upside-down. If the sight you like does not come in a LH specific model, make sure it does not use a cambered level. Gang Adjustments A gang adjustment is a feature on a sight that allows you to move all the pins simultaneously. Gang adjustments can be for elevation (height) or for windage (right & left settings). The sight on the left features both gang-elevation and gang-windage adjustments - meaning that all the pins can be adjusted up or down or side to side together. By loosening only one screw and sliding the dovetail bar up or down in the groove, the entire sight housing and all the pins can be raised or lowered. Similarly, a separate fastener allows the entire sight housing and all the pins to be moved horizontally. Not only do these features make the initial setup and sighting-in easier, but these features give the sight greater range of possible settings. We suggest you look for sights that incorporate these features. Sights without gang adjustments are generally more difficult to adjust and setup, as each pin has to be individually adjusted for both windage and elevation. Fortunately, the majority of today's machined sights feature the easy gang-adjustments. Micro Adjust Windage & Elevation.

Generally, gang adjustments are made by loosening a screw and then sliding the sight housing to a new position. But some sights are designed with a micro-adjust feature which allows gang windage and elevation adjustments to be made by turning an adjustment knob (usually attached to a simple gear that drives the motion of the housing).

So instead of sliding the sight housing, you simply turn the knob or screw - and the sight housing slowly creeps to its new position. Micro Adjust sights are very precise and easy to work with, but they are typically quite expensive. If your budget permits, a micro adjust sight is certainly a nice piece of equipment. But this is a luxury feature that isn't really essential to a good hunting sight.


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Zero Pin Gap (Near Zero That Is) As compound bows have gotten faster and faster, the space between our pins (pin gaps) seems to get tighter and tighter. For example, a bow that's shooting 300+ fps may have 20 & 30 yard pins that are virtually right on top of one another. To accommodate faster bows, many manufacturers are designing sights so the pins can be spaced very close together. This is usually accomplished by using multiple pin-tracks and/or angled pins such that one pin can be literally set on the edge of another. Sights designed with this feature are said to have "zero pin gap" capability. With a little marketing magic, "zero pin gap" has become a buzz-phrase in the industry. And as you might imagine, some sight manufacturers interpret the word "zero" a little differently than others. We find that better than half of the "zero pin gap" sights on the market can't actually be set for absolutely zero pin gap - but they get close. Even the 3-track sight pictured here cannot be set so that all three pins are actually touching. But it's so close - we'll spot them the ten-thousands of an inch. The point is.....if you shoot a zippy bow, you may need to consider a "zero pin gap" sight that will allow you to set your pins very close together. Especially if you plan to set your pins within a tight bowhunting range, say 10 -20 -30 yards, a zero pin gap sight will be a must. If your bow isn't such a speed demon, a standard single-track pin sight will work just fine. 2nd & 3rd Axis Adjustments.

Some sights feature 2nd and 3rd axis adjustments options. Admittedly, these features probably aren't necessary for a general purpose hunting rig. But for us hard-core enthusiasts and pathological tinkerers, these advanced adjustments are handy innovations. 2nd & 3rd Axis adjustments essentially ensure that your sight's bubble level is always telling you the truth. The 2nd Axis adjustment essentially deals with "levelling the level" on a sight. If a sight has a built-in level, and the sight is machined perfectly square, and the bow's riser is similarly perfectly square, the level should read a perfect zero-bubble when the bow is held upright at 0º. It's an easy thing to check if you have a carpenter's level. Just hold the carpenter's level along the side of the bow and stand it upright. If both the sight level and the carpenter's level come to zero-bubble at the same place, the sight's 2nd Axis is correct.

Naturally, you would think that all sights and bow risers are machined to be square. So you should be able to just bolt your sight in place and everything should line-up perfectly, right? Well...not necessarily. A sight's bubble level is usually installed in the outer pin guard, which is typically round or trapezoidal in shape. So getting the bubble level mounted in just the right place can be tricky business. It's not unusual to see a bubble level that's off a degree or two. And the fussy archer can spend many hours trying to shim and correct a 2nd Axis problem.


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Fortunately, some sights come with an adjustment that allows you to "set" the level with just the turn of an allen wrench. A sight with 2nd Axis adjustments allows you to adjust the position of the entire sight housing - relative to the bow's riser, so that your sight's level correctly indicates when the bow is perfectly upright. This isn't a complex feature to incorporate into a sight. Nonetheless, 2nd-Axis adjustments are typically available only on the more expensive sight models. With all that said, obsessing over the issue of 2nd Axis is largely unnecessary. The whole point of using a bubble level is to keep you from canting (tilting/leaning) the bow when you shoot it. But most people can't hold their bows up perfectly upright at 0º, even with a bubble level. Everyone bobbles a little while aiming - so we're all bound to be off a degree or two from shot to shot. The bubble level just helps us to get it reasonably close. As such, fussing over a perfect 2nd Axis setting is probably inconsequential to overall accuracy for most bowhunters. But if you enjoy the technical hair-splitting, the 2nd Axis adjustment sight might be perfect for you! The 3rd Axis adjustment is a little different. A sight with 3rd-Axis adjustments can be adjusted so that the entire sight housing can swivel inward (to a position less than square) or outward (to a position beyond square). At first glance it would seem that setting the sight for a perfect 90º would be best (centre sight in photo). But that isn't always the case. Most shooters hold their bow with some degree of hand-torque (slightly twisting the bow's riser to the left or right). The 3rd Axis adjustment helps to compensate for that. And since everyone shoots a little differently, a proper 3rd Axis setting is actually unique for each individual shooter. For some, dead square is still correct. For others, it's not. Getting your 3rd Axis right essentially means getting the plane of the sight to be perpendicular to the path of your arrow. But due to individual shooting form variations, 3rd Axis levelling cannot be done on a vice or jig. It must be done at full draw. It's also worth noting that some bow risers can flex considerably at full draw - also degrading 3rd Axis alignment. So again, a 3rd Axis adjustment is best made with the bow at full draw. If you select a sight with 3rd Axis adjustments, contact the manufacturer for the specific setup procedure for your 3rd Axis settings. So why does a 3rd Axis adjustment matter? On level ground, it really doesn't. But an improperly set 3rd Axis can cause your level to give an inaccurate reading when shooting uphill or downhill. This can result in you executing your shot with a significantly canted bow - and missing your mark to the left or right. Again, this is an advanced feature for which the benefits may not justify the added expense and setup time. But if you're serious about getting most from a bubble-level sight, 3rd Axis adjustment might be an important feature to consider when choosing a new sight. Machined Aluminum or Plastic? Most of today's quality hunting sights are made from machined aluminium (aluminium alloys actually). Aluminium is an ideal material for this application, as it is lightweight, it doesn't rust, and it is readily available. With thoughtful engineering and the aid of CNC (Computer Numeric Control) machining technology, sight manufacturers can create very precise and intricate


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aluminium sight designs. Of course, CNC machining isn't exactly cheap. You can expect to pay quite a bit more for a sight that has all machined aluminium parts. That's why it is common to see sights that have some machined parts and some plastic parts. Many of today's popular sights feature a machined aluminium mounting bracket and frame, with a plastic pin guard. And this isn't to suggest that plastic is bad. Some plastic parts are actually quite durable. But good or bad, the buying public largely regards plastic products as cheap or low-quality.

As such, archery manufacturers deliberately avoid using the word "plastic" in their advertisements. Instead, they cleverly use code words like composite, acrylic, poly, and lexan. But in the end, they all mean the same thing....plastic. So if you wish to avoid plastic parts on your new sight, watch for the code words. And while we're on the subject of clever codes, don't get too excited by ads that brag about using Aircraft Grade 6061-T6 Aluminium. It's nothing special.

6061 is the most common and least expensive of the heat treatable aluminium alloys. There are literally thousands of products that incorporate 6061-T6. With all that said, we recommend you choose a good-quality machined sight with a minimum of plastic components. In the long run, it will be well worth the extra money spent. Sight Lights & Radioactive Pins. Some sights are designed to use a secondary light source to illuminate the pins - either via battery power or chemical light sticks.

Some sights come with this feature already incorporated into the sight, but most manufacturers offer a sight light as an added accessory. Optional sight lights frequently mount into a pre-drilled opening (like in the photo at left) in the sight's outer housing. But it's done a variety of ways - from one brand to the next. The sight light either shines directly on the sight pins, or on the fibre-optic elements of the pins, causing the pins to be visible even in total darkness. Of course, with this type of light, the user must turn the light on and off as needed - as they are typically powered by a small watch battery.

A few manufacturers take a more unique approach, infusing their sight pins with small amounts of radioactive tritium or phosphorescent powder. Tritium pins glow softly for up to 10 years without the need for batteries. Phosphorescent pins aren't radioactive, but work much like a "glow-in-the-dark" novelty item. The pins absorb ambient light and then slowly remit the light after the light source is removed. So theoretically, a phosphorescent pin will remain visible for a brief period of time after dark. All of these devices may indeed extend your shooting hours and pin visibility during dawn and dusk conditions. But a lighted pin is not a "night vision" system; it will not increase your visibility through the peep sight or illuminate your target. So even though you may be able to see your pins, you still may not be able to hit the spot.

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SELECTING AN ARROW REST

The function is pretty simple - to hold your arrow in position and support the arrow until you fire the bow. This notwithstanding, not all arrow rests are created equal, there are dozens of different rests to choose from. Some are inexpensive; some are not. Some are simple to install and use; many are not. Some are good for hunting; others are not. You get the idea. There is no one perfect rest for everyone and every application. Like most things you buy, each type of arrow rest has pros and cons to consider. And while it probably isn't necessary to buy the most expensive model, a quality arrow rest, in conjunction with a quality sight, will undoubtedly improve your accuracy and success in the field. If you're looking to improve your shooting, installing a quality arrow rest is a great place to start. As such, we suggest you consider this choice carefully.

Arrow Rest Types. If you're shooting a modern centre-shot cutaway bow, you have a wide variety of arrow rest designs to choose from. Modern bows are generally drilled and tapped to the same AMO specs, so any brand of arrow rest fits virtually any bow1. For example, you don't have to choose a PSE rest to go with your PSE bow. You can choose virtually any rest on the market. Note 1: Be advised: some bow brands feature especially thick risers and/or wide centre-shots.

If you have such a bow, please check to make sure the arrow rest you select has enough windage adjustment.

OK...so where do we begin? Let's start with arrow rest type. Most arrow rests can be placed in 1 of 5 categories: Shoot-Thru Arrow Rests, Containment Arrow Rests, Drop Away Arrow Rests, Pressure/Plunger Rests, and 3D & Specialty Rests. So let's briefly take a look at each type of rest and discuss their respective pros and cons. Shoot-Thru Arrow Rests. The Shoot-Thru arrow rest is commonly called a "prong" rest, and is a popular choice for compound bows that are shot with a mechanical release. They're fairly simple to install and they work well for most applications. A Shoot-Thru rest typically has two prongs, spaced about 2/3 of the arrow diameter apart, creating a sort of cradle for the arrow. The arrow sits on top, settling on the gap between the two prongs. These prongs are usually spring-loaded, allowing them to flex down and forward at the moment of the shot to prevent flight disruptions and permitting additional clearance for the fletching as it passes by. After the shot, the spring-loaded prongs automatically return to their original position and you're ready to shoot again. This type of rest is called a "Shoot-Thru" because the bottom feather or vane (usually the odd-coloured one known as the "cock-fletch") passes between the two prongs when you shoot the arrow. When the arrow-nock and rest-prong alignment is correct, the cock-fletch passes cleanly thru the two prongs without making contact.



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When properly setup, this type of arrow rest is very accurate and reliable. Unfortunately, the Shoot-Thru rest does have a few disadvantages. First, if a feather or vane contacts one of your prongs as it passes by, the arrow flight will be notably disrupted and the fletching may be damaged. Straight vanes usually clear with no trouble, but offset and helical fletchings will often require a little more tinkering to achieve good clearance. So proper tuning, correct arrow spine selection, and nock alignment is critical when using Shoot-Thru rests. Shoot-thru rests are also best used with a mechanical release. Unlike mechanically released arrows which tend to oscillate vertically, finger released arrows tend to oscillate horizontally. This side-to-side movement (archer's paradox) can make proper fletching clearance very difficult to achieve for finger shooters using Shoot-Thru style rests. And finally, the biggest disadvantage of Shoot-Thru rests is the lack of arrow containment. Once you nock your arrow into position, there's nothing to keep the arrow from falling off the rest prongs. A strong wind, a canted bow, a shaky draw stroke, or even a little buck-fever could all cause your arrow to fall from the prongs of a Shoot-Thru rest. For some users of Shoot-Thru rests, this is never a problem. For others, it's a constant headache. There are a number of add-on products which function as "arrow holders" for Shoot-Thru rests. However, we do not recommend them, as they often disrupt arrow flight and/or are cumbersome to use. Market Trends While the Shoot-Thru rest was once the standard for both hunting and competition shooters, it has lost considerable favour to containment and drop-away rests over the last few years. And although many competition shooters still prefer the prong-rest, bowhunters are largely moving away from this type of arrow rest. Containment Arrow Rests. Containment-style arrow rests are a favourite of many hunters using a mechanical release, as they totally eliminate the possibility of the arrow falling from the rest. They are easy to install and very easy to tune. Containment style arrow rests either totally encircle the arrow, or simultaneously contact the arrow in 3 spots, rigidly holding the arrow until it is shot. The Containment Arrow Rest is an excellent choice for youth and new shooters too. Many new shooters, especially those who are still wrestling with their shooting form, quickly become frustrated with arrows that fall from the rest. Containment Arrow Rests allow new shooters to focus on their technique and the actual shot, rather than worrying about the arrow rest. Most containment rests work well with most any type of arrow. Unfortunately, the containment rest isn't perfect either. Some argue that since the rest is in contact with the arrow for a longer period of time, the Containment Style rest is less forgiving to errors in shooting technique. While this may be true in the strictest technical sense, it is not the most common complaint from Containment Rest users. The most common gripe is fletching damage. Though not all Containment Rests are designed to make contact with the arrow's


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fletchings, the most popular of the Containment Rests (The Whisker Biscuit) is designed this way. With repeated shooting, this type of rest eventually wrinkles vanes and tatters the edges of feathers. But since the rest makes equal contact with all 3 fletchings simultaneously, the net effect on arrow flight is negligible - less a tiny deduction in speed. On the other hand, Containment Rests with 3-point contacts (like the Bodoodle Zapper at bottom-left) are designed NOT to make fletching contact. But they can be particularly fussy about nock and fletching alignment, much like a Shoot-Thru rest. Some of the 3-point Containment Rests are designed with fairly small clearance gaps which cannot accommodate most offset and helical fletchings. So a straight fletch may be required if you choose a 3-point type Containment Rest. All things considered, the Containment Rest offers some significant advantages, especially for hunting. A Containment Rest ensures that your arrow is ready to shoot at all times. Though this may not be important for 3D, target and recreational archers, we suggest bowhunters strongly consider this option. Market Trends. No discussion of containment rests is complete without some specific mention of the Whisker Biscuit phenomenon. While hard-core enthusiasts continue to debate the pros and cons of the Whisker Biscuit, this arrow rest has come to totally dominate the containment rest market - and perhaps the larger arrow rest market for that matter. Over 50% of the bows sold and setup use some model of Whisker Biscuit. While the Whisker Biscuit still gets a "love it or hate it response", it is by far the most popular choice among new bowhunting enthusiasts and the recognized standard in containment arrow rests. In fact, there have been dozens of "knock-offs" over the past few years - similar rests that are made specifically to compete with the Whisker Biscuit. And while many of them have posted good technical challenges, they cannot force consumers to release their bear-hugs on the Whisker Biscuit. Fletching damage or not, countless thousands of bowhunters adore this rest. Pressure/Plunger Rests The term "Pressure Rest" is practically synonymous with "Finger-Shooter Rest". They're sometimes also called "Shoot-Around" rests. This is a special type of rest that "pushes back" from the side, to help counteract the horizontal oscillation of an arrow released with fingers. Finger shooting is becoming less popular, as more and more shooters elect to use mechanical releases. But fortunately, several manufacturers still make rests that are specifically designed to accommodate the finger-released arrow.

These rests will allow the finger shooter to adjust the amount of tension (pressure) the rest exerts on the arrow, to get the best possible tune from a finger-released bow. Please note that some of these designs may only work with a centre-shot cutaway riser bow (figure A). If you shoot an older bow without the benefit of a centre-shot cutaway riser (figure B),


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you may need to choose a standard Flipper or Springy rest. Some Pressure Rests won't have enough horizontal travel to accommodate the centre-shot on an older bow. Specialty Arrow Rests.

We group all other miscellaneous arrow rests as Specialty Arrow Rests. These may include:

Specialty competition 3D rests (sometimes called Lizard Tongues)

Flipper Rests for non-centre-shot cutaway and traditional bows

Springy Rests for finger-shooters

Bow fishing rests for heavy fiberglass arrows.

And all other miscellaneous arrow rests.

These rests are purpose-specific and should not be used for most bowhunting applications. If you are unsure which specialty rest is appropriate for your bow, please contact us for assistance.

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DISCUSSING BOW STRINGS

Introduction Frequently asked questions about bowstring and serving material are addressed in this Tech Forum. Please understand that there is not always one exact answer. A lot depends on the type of bow, the string length, the string type, the draw weight, how the string is made, and of course, a shooter's personal preferences. In this Tech Forum, we are trying to give general guidelines. If you don't find the answer to your question on this page, you may email BCY. Q: What is creep compared to stretch? Answer: Creep is non-recoverable elongation, unlike stretch which is basically elasticity or recoverable elongation. Some elasticity is necessary. Creep is a problem. It can cause the bow to go out of tune and the peep to rotate. The draw weight can increase or decrease and the draw length can increase or decrease. Q: Are there any bowstring materials that do not creep? Answer: Yes - 450 Plus, 452X and Trophy. These are blends of Dyneema® and Vectran. Vectran has no creep at the tension created by normal bows; therefore these materials are normally 100% stable. Q: If these products have no creep, why would anyone use anything else? Answer: Any archer needing maximum speed will find that a Vectran blended product is slightly slower than a 100% Dyneema® or Spectra product. Q: What is the fastest string material that does not creep? Answer: On most bows, we would suggest 20 - 24 strands of 452X or Trophy material in the string and the cable (or make the cables from 12 - 14 strands of 450 Plus). This response relates to compound bows with 55 - 75 lb. draw weight. A lower number of strands can be used on lighter poundage bows. Formula 8125 material and Dynaflight 97 are made from the latest and strongest Dyneema® material. In many cases, little or no creep will occur when using these materials and 8125 is the fastest. Many recurve shooters prefer 8125 or DynaFLIGHT 97. Q: Is it a fact that the lower the number of strands, the faster the arrow? Answer: Yes on most bows but not all, and of course with today’s extremely strong materials, a lower number of strands can normally be used safely. Of course it is important to be sure that the centre serving is built up to allow a good nock fit when the number of string strands is reduced. Note also that at a certain point not too far below the manufacturer’s recommended number of strands, it is quite likely that the archer will notice an increase in vibration directly after release because there is not enough mass in the string to absorb the "elastic energy" that occurs when the arrow is released.

ANNEXURE 06 Courtesy of BCY Bowstrings


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Note that HMPE products like Dyneema® and Spectra are prone to creep more if fewer strands are used. "Elevated temperatures and higher draw weights increase this problem." Q: Are there string materials that are better on some bows than others? Answer: Bow manufacturers make their choice of string material based on many criteria but primarily safety and performance. Performance - meaning speed, low or no creep, vibration, and durability. Bow manufacturers do extensive testing. Some put a higher priority on certain criteria than others but they are all very conscious of safety. Q: Can you use a different string than the type supplied with the bow directly from the factory? Answer: Normally yes, unless there are some strict recommendations not to by the bow manufacturer. Check to be sure it does not void the warranty if a different string is used. Be sure to get the right number of strands of the new material you plan to use. Q: Is it necessary to use "special" wax with certain types of bowstring material? Answer: Not really. There are four main reasons for using wax on a bowstring. 1. To lubricate the fibres and prevent "fibre to fibre" abrasion 2. To help keep the "bundle" of strands together 3. To maintain and extend the life of the string 4. To help prevent water absorption Bowstring material manufacturers normally apply a generous amount of synthetic wax in liquid form, which insures that from its origin the bowstring material is well lubricated inside and out. It is this process which gives the material its basic protection from fibre to fibre abrasion and helps keep the bundle of strands together. Generally the type of wax used would be a good quality standard "tacky" wax. At this stage it would be unusual for the wax to include silicone which is very slick and, particularly in the case of Flemish strings, makes it difficult to convert the bowstring material into a finished bowstring. However, after the string is made, it is recommended that the archer look for a "maintenance" wax that contains some silicone because a wax blended with silicone penetrates the string material very well and keeps the inside fibres lubricated as well as the outside. Wax can be applied with fingers, with a cloth, or with chamois leather. It should be applied frequently and rubbed well into the string. Q: Is it okay to wax the serving material on a bowstring? Answer: It is best to restrict waxing serving except on extreme wear areas. The centre serving on a Crossbow needs to be kept lubricated but there is no need to wax compound / recurve centre servings. Q: How many twists can be put into a bowstring? Answer: There are three reasons for twisting a bowstring – 1. To keep the bundle of strands together 2. To shorten the string after creep has occurred (adjust draw length) 3. To correct peep rotation On a standard compound bow, initially .5 to .75 twists per inch is a suggested range; meaning on a 60" string, you should apply 30 to 45 twists. If you use a material that does not creep, no further twisting will be required. Obviously on single cam strings, more twists may be required because the string is longer. We have found that a higher twist level reduces peep rotation.


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Q: Does twisting reduce creep? Answer: Not really. Eventually polyethylene fibres such as Spectra and Dyneema®, under high temperature and high tension, will creep. Twisting will take up the stretch (creep) that has occurred, but will not stop it from continuing Q: Is there any difference in the durability of a string made from coloured material instead of black or white? Answer: No. Q: Are there any benefits in a braided bowstring as opposed to the standard twisted product? Answer: We produced braided bowstring material many years ago and have looked at it many times. Generally braided material is expensive. It does not improve the creep characteristics of the bowstring and normally reduces arrow speed. Q: What is the life of a bowstring? Answer: This depends on many factors but primarily the number of shots and the condition of the equipment. If an archer is shooting a high poundage bow every day and using a calliper release, the string should be checked very frequently. (Using a string loop will increase string life.) On a lower poundage bow, shooting fingers, the wear would be significantly less, therefore the life of the string much longer. But again, it is the archer’s responsibility to check the string and keep it waxed. There are no rules. We know that with the high quality synthetic materials being used today, many thousands of shots can be achieved. Archers should also check for tell-tale signs of problems such as abrasion (fuzziness), high strands (which indicate a strand breakage underneath the serving), or excessive peep rotation - which can be an indication that one strand may have broken. There are many reasons for string breakage. One of the most common is burrs in the cams / wheels. It is the archer’s responsibility to check the string carefully prior to shooting every time. As stated, many thousands of shots can safely be achieved if the string is checked and maintained properly. Q: How do I make a zebra string? Answer: You can’t. It is a patented product made by Mathews from a specially constructed material. You can make standard two colour strings. Q: What is the best centre serving to use? Answer: No. 62 braid, a blend of Spectra and polyester, grips well and has high durability. It should suit most archers. It is available in three diameters - .018, 021, and .025. Also offered is 62XS serving which is similar to regular 62 but with a higher percentage of Spectra for even better durability. Many finger shooters (compound, traditional and FITA) prefer our Halo, 100% braided Spectra material. Q: What is the best end serving to use? Answer: On traditional bows, No. 400 nylon is a good bet. For something more durable, our new Halo is quite popular. For the ends on modern compound bows, twisted Spectra material is usually the best. Look at our No. 3D. It is the smallest diameter end serving and fits comfortably into the cam / wheels


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without riding up on the side walls causing abrasion. Our black No. 3D has a slight adhesive coating which helps it stay together around the loops. No. 62 braid and 62XS are also being used as an end serving material, usually in size .018". It is less prone to slippage and serving separation, however the archer must determine if durability is sufficient. Halo .014 is getting very popular because it is small and tough, and fits in those small cam grooves on compound bows. Q: How tight should serving material be applied? Answer: Tight enough to hold the serving in place and stop it separating. That is not very specific but what it means is that if you serve too tightly, there may be problems. In the centre, you are crushing the bowstring material which can cause problems at a point where flexing occurs, and at the ends, if the serving is too tight, it "cracks" open when bent around the cam, especially if the bow is fitted with a radical cam. So experiment with serving materials which offer some adhesive coating for the ends such as our black No. 3D, Halo 014 and 62XS - 018". Q: What is the difference between Spectra and Dyneema®? Answer: Not very much. Both products are HMPE (high modulus polyethylene) materials. This product was originally developed by DSM in Europe and licensed to Allied Chemicals for production in the United States. BCY introduced Dyneema® to the archery market in 1995 with its DynaFLIGHT bowstring material which was made from SK65 Dyneema®. In 1997, DSM began manufacturing SK75, a higher strength Dyneema® with less creep, and BCY introduced this with DynaFLIGHT 97 bowstring material in 1997. There are some slight differences in the two products, Spectra and Dyneema®, which really do not affect the performance as an archery bowstring. These would be the number of filaments and the actual makeup of the yarn. In general, SK65 Dyneema® is equal to Spectra 1000 and SK75 Dyneema® equals Spectra 2000. Note that Spectra 2000 is not available in heavy size yarns needed for making archery bowstring material. The main benefits of Spectra and Dyneema® over other fibres previously used in archery bowstrings are their extremely high strength and durability. The high strength results in very low creep. Technical information about both products can be accessed through the Internet if you are looking for additional technical data. There are just the 2 genuine producers of Dyneema® and Spectra. One Japanese manufacturer is licensed to produce a Dyneema® product. HMPE from China is not Dyneema® or Spectra. Q: Does 452 fray? Answer: All bowstring material will fray or fuzz if it is not properly maintained, meaning regularly waxed, so I guess the question is - Does 452 fray more than other bowstring materials? Early production of 452 bowstring material included fibres lubricated with silicone. It was found that the silicone would not blend with our standard bowstring wax applied during manufacturing. This caused 452 material to dry out quickly and a dry string will fuzz of fray. The fibres are no longer lubricated with silicone. We now use a special lubricant which blends


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well with our current production wax. This means that the 452 stays well lubricated, therefore no longer will it fuzz or fray. All current productions of 452 will show no more fuzzing or fraying than any other bowstring material. 452 is now called 452X. This also applies to the new Trophy product. Note also that the percentage of Vectran in 452X and Trophy is approximately 33%. The lower the Vectran content, the higher the durability, the faster the arrow speed, the longer the string life and the greater the safety. The right percentage of Vectran stops the creep. Q: Do bowstrings provide the same performance on different bows? Answer: No. It is generally accepted that small diameter string materials of 100% Spectra or Dyneema®, such as 8125, will shoot faster, but of course stability also has to be considered. The width of the wheel tracks and design of the compound bows can make a difference. Some bows have very wide and friendly wheel tracks and speed tests have shown that blended materials such as 452X and Trophy are not much slower than 8125 on these bows. On some compound bows, particularly those with narrow wheel tracks, the use of string material with a high percentage of Vectran has resulted in problems such as sudden catastrophic failures. So, the answer is really that any opinions given by archers on string material relate directly to the bow they are using and it is wrong to assume that the results will be the same on other bows. Q: What is the difference in strength between Dynaflight and 8125? I previously made my strings and cables out of Dynaflight. My strings were made with 16 strands and cables were 14 strands. Now I have started to use 8125 in which I made a string consisting of 18 strands, and I am wondering if 14 strands for a cable would be strong enough because of the smaller diameter. Could you tell me which is faster and more durable, no.2d.016 end serving or no.2s.018 end serve? Answer: Both DynaFLIGHT 97 and 8125 are made from the highest quality Dyneema® yarn. 97 with its larger diameter is about 23% stronger than 8125, so 18 strands of 8125 would give you similar strength to 16 of 97. Both materials have excellent durability. We recommend 18 strands of 8125, perhaps 20 in your cables, but consider putting 452X in your cables. 8125 is the faster string material. If you use too few strands, you are likely to get some "creep"; particularly on the high poundage bows at high temperatures. Regarding end serving, our 3D and 2S have similar strength and durability. The 3D is popular because of its smaller diameter and 3 ply rounder construction; it seems to serve tighter. Halo .014 is another option with a very tough, small braid. Q: Bowstring material used to be made from Dacron, then from Fastflight. Now we see Dyneema®, Spectra and HMPE. What are these materials and which one is best? Answer: HMPE means "High Modulus Polyethylene". Spectra and Dyneema® are both HMPE material. BCY uses mostly Dyneema® for Bowstring material and Spectra for serving material.


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Products described as HMPE are made from either Spectra or Dyneema®. Spectra and Dyneema® are both very, very strong. Breakages are rare with either material. However, less creep (stretch) will be experienced with SK75 Dyneema® because it is stronger. Breakages can occur because of abrasion, rough spots at the ends of the bow, etc., but not because of fibre strength if the correct number of strands is used. Which is best? Bottom line.....our opinion.....its Dyneema® SK75, which is the strongest HMPE yarn available in suitable sizes for bowstring material. BCY uses either 100% SK75 Dyneema® or a blend of SK75 Dyneema® and Vectran in all bowstring materials. We’ve recently added SK78 for Crossbows. Question: What is the best bowstring material for a modern Recurve bow? Answer: First it is essential to be sure that the bow is designed to shoot with the modern, high tenacity bowstring materials. Any doubt, use Dacron to avoid limb tip breakage. Which string material is best for recurve bows? It's not an easy question. We know top recurve shooters are using our 8125, our 452X and our DynaFLIGHT97; and by top shooters we mean people like Vic Wunderle, Butch Johnson, Ed Eliason, and Simon Fairweather. So there's really not a clear recommendation, but we see a preference for Dyneema® which offers high strength and durability. Less strands can be used on lower poundage recurve bows, which helps arrow speed, particularly if the draw length is short. Q: What is the best bowstring material for a Crossbow? Answer: 100% Dyneema® is recommended for safety and speed. This leads to DynaFLIGHT97. -26 or 28 strands are normally used. Creep is not normally a factor due to the extremely high strength of the string, but now you also have the option of Force 10 Crossbow string which has the same size as D97 but even less creep. Use our braided Spectra crossbow serving and 2S or 3D end serving.

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UNDERSTANDING THE IBO SPEED PHENOMENON

Before we break down the issue of energy storage, we should be clear on why it matters so much. Ultimately, manipulating and optimizing energy storage is about generating faster arrow speeds. And believe it or not, most archery enthusiasts are "speed junkies" to some extent. When most shooters evaluate a new bow, one of their first questions is likely to be "How fast does it shoot?” In the archery industry - speed sells. And like the coveted 300 yard drive in golf, and the 300 mph funny-car pass, the 300 fps mark seems to be the benchmark for high performance in the archery market. As a matter of consumer perception, a bow that shoots under 300 fps is generally considered slow, while a bow that shoots over 300 fps considered fast - in spite of the fact that there's no practical difference in a 298 fps bow and a 302 fps bow. Nonetheless, manufacturers are under tremendous pressure to produce bows that pump out big 300+ fps IBO speeds.

So what is an IBO Speed? Let's start at the top. On the most basic level, there are three main components of actual arrow speed: draw weight, draw length, and arrow mass. The higher the draw weight - the faster the arrow will shoot. The longer the draw length - the faster the arrow will shoot. And the lighter the arrow - the faster it will go. So for the purposes of testing, a slick manufacturer could setup a particular model bow and establish their bow's advertised speed using an unrealistic 100# draw weight, 32" draw length, and shoot an anorexic 250 grain arrow. Surely that combination would yield a blazing fast test speed and would help to sell more bows, right? Well, not so fast.

To really compare two bows, the industry uses an "Apples-to-Apples" method of comparison. Manufacturers generally rate their bows using the same IBO (International Bowhunting Organization) Standard. To get an accurate IBO Speed rating, manufacturers must test their bows under the same pre-set conditions: setting the bow for exactly 70# Peak Draw Weight, exactly 30" Draw Length and they must shoot a test arrow that weighs precisely 350 grains. This levels the playing field on basic settings, so the differences in IBO scores reflect other design attributes (brace height, cam aggressive, bow efficiency, etc.). OK, fair enough!

However, since most manufacturers rate their own bows - they'll usually give themselves a few added advantages by testing the bows with a bare arrow shaft (no fletchings), a naked string (no nocking point, peep sight, or silencers), the lowest possible let-off setting, and with a drop-away style rest. This helps to maximize storage and eliminate friction so it's possible to squeeze out a few extra fps, but it doesn't necessarily reflect realistic shooting conditions. Manufacturers can also squeeze a few more fps by shooting the bows from the hard-wall (forcibly drawing the bow back a little too far) rather than from the soft valley (more on wall and valley concepts later). And finally, the manufacturer's IBO speed is likely to reflect their "best" test, rather than their average test.

Since the industry has no independent testing authority to actually scientifically verify each of the manufacturers'



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claims, most bows end up with advertised IBO speeds that are optimistically high, and nearly impossible to duplicate. After all, most consumers don't have the benefit of a chronograph, and few people actually shoot 70# DW, 30" DL, and exactly a 350 gr arrow. And even if they did, there will always be some percentage of variance among scales and chronographs to help dismiss any claims of discrepancies. So there's really no way to hold manufacturers accountable for their exact IBO speed numbers. From our experience, they're all guilty of a little IBO speed padding. But in all fairness, most are careful not to get too carried away. A little padding and outright fabricating are different things.

As such, we recommend you consider the manufacturers' ratings as a high-estimate. In most cases, the IBO speed is still a reliable method of "Apples-to-Apples" comparison among different bow models. We just have to accept that manufacturers invariably doctor-up their apples to be a little sweeter than they actually are. It's just part of the game. So don't assume something is "wrong" with your new bow just because it doesn't shoot as fast as it is posted IBO Speed. Very few, if any at all, bows do.

In fact, we periodically IBO test new bows here at our facility. Over the course of several years and countless dozens of tests, we have NEVER found a single bow which will actually shoot at or above its advertised IBO speed - from any manufacturer. Admittedly, some manufacturers come closer than others, but in the real world, most compound bows will actually shoot 10-20 fps less than their advertised IBO speeds. And once setup in a typical hunting rig with a loaded-string most bows will shoot a measurable 30-50 fps less than the advertised IBO speed.

So while we understand that speed is a big selling point for compound bows and a major performance characteristic that merits concern, we strongly suggest you not get too caught-up in splitting hairs over IBO speed. Compared to the wheel bows we grew-up on, any modern compound bow is blazing fast. In the field, the 298 fps "Slow-Bow" will probably perform just as well as the 302 fps "Fast-Bow". You will likely ever know the difference.

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