the importance of a sustainable farm system to a successful fashion industry

The importance of a sustainable farm system to a successful fashion industry

Simon FerrignoConsultant

Sustainable & Organic Farm Systems

Simon Ferrigno - sustainable & organic farm systems

Texworld forum In search of organic and other sustainable textiles

September 15 2010

Texworld, Paris - www.sustainableorganicfarmsystems.co.uk - 15-09-2010

Cotton: zero to...?

Cotton remains one of the most important fibres in the world: 35% of textiles market and global production in 2010/11 of 25.3

million tonnes

It is the most important natural fibre (2/3 of total)

Cotton's use of pesticides has declined, however, serious challenges remain including:

Water use, land use, soil fertility, use of chemicals, energy/GHGs, etc.

However, many sustainable options are now available


Introducing Better Cotton

September 15 2010

www.bettercotton.org

BCI is a multi-stakeholder initiative - from producer to retailer – to reduce the damaging

environmental and social consequences ofcotton production.


To demonstrate the inherent benefits of Better Cotton production, particularly the financial profitability for farmers

To reduce the impact of water and pesticide use on human and environmental health

To improve soil health and biodiversity

To promote Decent Work for farming communities and cotton farm workers

To facilitate global knowledge exchange on more sustainable cotton production

To increase the traceability along the cotton supply chain

Goals


Target: 300,000 tonnes by 2012 (1.3% global cotton)

BCI members already account for 4% of global cotton production

2010: India: 30,000 farmers, 37,000 hectares

Pakistan: 50,000 farmers, 164,00 farmers Brazil: 150 farmers, 27,000 hectares

West Africa: 5,000 farmers, 13,200 hectares


BCI, organic and Fairtrade

BCI complements, rather than competes with, existing initiatives such as Fairtrade and organic cotton.

All three are working to increase the amount of environmentally and socially sustainable cotton.

BCI is focused on the long-term transformation of the mass market, making smaller improvements on a larger scale

BCI will not use a labelling scheme and there will be no fixed premium for Better Cotton.

BCI is actively working towards aligned activities with Fairtrade and organic


However...

Sustainability is not just about which system, but also how you implement the system...


The farm is the core and foundation of the cotton value chain

Farm/Farmers

Primary Marketing & support

Value Chain

Marketing & Retail

Consumers

Natural resources: land, soil, water, energy


An example of a sustainable fibre value chain and support services


On the farm

COTTONCOTTON

An im a lsBees and H oneyC ow s and goa ts

An im a lsBees and H oneyC ow s and goa ts

Beneficial and harmful organisms(fungus, m ites, insect, b irds, m am m als and o thers)

Beneficial and harmful organisms(fungus, m ites, insect, b irds, m am m als and o thers)

Soil(fungus, lichens, m ites, insects, and o thers)

Soil(fungus, lichens, m ites, insects, and o thers)

C rop R otation

Food C ash- M a ize - Sesam e- Beans - G roundnu t- Len til - Soya- Vege tab les - Sw eet

po ta to

C rop R otation

Food C ash- M a ize - Sesam e- Beans - G roundnu t- Len til - Soya- Vege tab les - Sw eet

po ta to

A ssocia tion

Food C ash- Beans - Sesam e- M a ize

A ssocia tion

Food C ash- Beans - Sesam e- M a ize

B order (use fu l p lan ts)

- C arob- Sun flow er

B order (use fu l p lan ts)

- C arob- Sun flow er

Periphery

Food C ash- C assava - C o ffee

- Banana- M ango

Periphery

Food C ash- C assava - C o ffee

- Banana- M ango

water

energy

Chemicals

Seeds

Sun

Fertiliser


Inputs to the farm system: water – labour – seed – finance – inputs – training – land – soil – biodiversity -

Outputs from the farm system: fibre – food – water – pollution – money – soil degradation – loss of resources – social change/issues -

Extractive systems- deplete soils through poor management- increase poverty through poor productivity, low prices, high costs, labour exploitation- pollute land, air and water through improper chemical use

Constructive systems- train people- study and balance agronomy, productivity, people and planet- reduce water use- build soil fertility- invest in research, development e.g., improved varieties


Good systems

Productive (good varieties, good soils, etc.)

Resilient (food, education, health, ecosystem, water...

Innovative (research and development)

Supported (training, investment, fair returns, fair wages and practices...)

Long-term (contracts, relationships, partnerships)


Costs and benefits for brandsCosts Certification Traceability Premium or fair prices More expensive if potentially

higher quality raw material Poor economies of scale (at

beginning) CSR costs Monitoring Management Farmer support/investment

BenefitsShorter value chainBetter quality managementTraceable productPositive stories from farming =

communicationFewer intermediaries (=fewer

commissions)More productivityMore efficiencyLower footprints including costs of

water and energyCloser management


What system for me?

Ask the right question for you business, e.g.,

A strong consumer message (organic, Fairtrade)?

Partnership with a movement (Fairtrade)

Wide change across sourcing chain (BCI)

Or a combination of all options?


What system for me?

Verifiable

Traceable

Calculated: impacts, positives versus negatives

Think of products and where there is room for manoeuvre in margins

Organic or FT good consumer facing options or even loss leaders, while...

BCI addresses the wider product mix and addresses the awkward question: and what about the rest of your cotton?

Adapted to business size: an SME, niche or high end brand might be able to do 100% of organic and/or FT

A larger business might need a mixture


ConclusionGet help and collaborate:

NGOsTrade Bodies

ExpertsExisting programmes

…Thank you.

Simon Ferrigno

+44 1843 845 919 +44 7940 462 311

Skype: [email protected]

[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]

the importance of a sustainable farm system to a successful fashion industry

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