the impact of biotechnology on textile process

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    Introductiony Many natural fibre dyeing and finishing processes are not

    environmentally friendly.y They involve use of chemicals which cause pollution when

    waste water is put into rivers.y Manufacturers are pressurized by the government to

    reduce levels of pollution.y In this section we will look aty * Fabric finishing processes

    y * Biotechnologyy * Improved plant varietiesy * Dyeing and finishingy * Recycling

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    y Fabric Finishing Processes:

    y Fabric Finishing Processes Fabric finishes can change thehandle, texture and performance of fabrics.

    y Anti-static and shrink resist have been around for years.

    y New ways of producing finishes are being developed toimprove fabrics and reduce pollution.

    y We will look at:

    y i) Shrink resistancey ii) Coating fabrics

    y iii) Anti-bacterial finishes

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    y Shrink Resistance:y Shrink Resistance Wool fibers shrink and felt when

    washed.y To prevent this finishing processes are used:y * Wet finishing for woven wool.y Environmentally friendly. Dried naturally. Called

    London Shrinking. Subsequent washing causesshrinking and felting so must be dry cleaned.

    y * Chemical shrink finishing. Uses chlorine whichis an environmental hazard. New finishes arebeing developed.

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    y Shrink Resistance:y Shrink Resistance New Shrink-Resistant Finishes Surrounding Fibers

    Surround wool fibers with synthetic polymers to stop felting.y Soft luster is a finishing process which uses silicone resulting in soft,

    smooth, lustrous yarn that dyes well and can be machine washed.y Machine washable wool can be finished with Teflon which doesnt

    affect handle, drape or breath ability. Stops it pilling too.

    y Shrink Resistance :y

    Shrink Resistance Inter Fiber Bonding Soft polymer applied whichsticks to wool fiber surface which bonds fibers together. Can bemachine washed.

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    y Coating Fabrics Originally rubber, oiled or waxed, but notbreathable.

    y Used for protection against weather. PVC, silicone and

    polyurethane first used. Modern synthetics arefluorochemicals, chloroforms or silicone which are microporous and breathable (since 1985).

    y Coating Fabrics:y Coating Fabrics Application Layer of synthetic polymer on

    back or front of fabric.y Can be heavy or thin coating.y Thinner is more flexible.y Coatings can make fabric reflective, iridescent, papery,

    high-gloss, neon or holographic.

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    y Coated Fabrics:

    y Coated Fabrics Used for:

    y * Protective clothingy * High visibility garments

    y * Handbags, luggage

    y * Furniture and car seats

    y * Floor and wall coverings

    y * Conveyor belts, inflatables

    y * Shower curtains, blinds

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    y Anti-Bacterial Finishes:y Anti-Bacterial Finishes Copies linen ie non allergenic so germs cant spread,

    releases dirt and improves anti-bacterial effect with washing used for hospitalsheets and bandages.

    y Nowadays anti-bacterial finishes are used for medical and sportswear. Worksby stopping growth of microbes.y Trios (a chemical) is added to surface of fabric.

    y Anti-Bacterial Finishes:

    y

    Anti-Bacterial Finishes Used to protect garments / shoes from bacteria forlifetime of product.y Must have good anti-microbial performance after at least 50 washes.y Some finishes are not applied to surface but to fibre itself doesnt wash out.y Benefits control odour, stop skin irritation / infection, stop fabric

    discolouring / deteriorating.

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    y Biotechnology:y Biotechnology New Developments Fibre preparation , fabric finishing

    and aftercare.y Benefits less energy used, speeds up production of processes, based

    on renewable raw materials, reduces environmental pollution.y Biotechnology:y Biotechnology Biological wool shearing Being done in Australia.y Artificial growth factor injected into sheep to interrupt hair growth.y After a month breaks appear in wool fibre and f leece can be pulled off.y

    Takes half the normal shearing time.

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    y Dyeing and Finishing Processes:y Dyeing and Finishing Processes Chemicals are used to dye

    and finish.

    y The environmentally unfriendly processes are: Removingcolors and pesticide from waste water.

    y The toxic heavy metal compounds used in dyeing.Chemicals used in finishing processes.

    y New, environmentally friendly processes are being

    developed.y For example scouring and bleaching of fabric using an

    enzyme to remove hydrogen peroxide used in bleachingfrom waste water.

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    y Dyeing and Finishing Processes:

    y Dyeing and Finishing Processes New environmentally

    friendly processes.y Biostoning denim. Biopolishing cotton.

    y Naturally grown cotton that is permanently dyed (tostop dyes running in the wash).

    y Colour run system which uses an enzyme to bleachthe dye in the wastewater but not the garment.

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    y Recycled Textiles:y Recycled Textiles Pollution is caused by bleaching, dyeing, finishing

    and the production of waste materials.y

    Recycling is not easy as products are often made from blended fibres.100% natural fibres are easier to recycle.y Recycled Textiles:y Recycled Textiles Natural fibres High quality, fashionable garments

    that use less energy to make and cause less pollution are availabley . They are made from recycled fibres. Recycling is done by tearing

    clothes into fibres called shoddy using a rag pulling machine.y Shoddy is then blended, carded, spun and knitted or woven into fabric.y Recycling fibres reduces pollution by:y Less virgin wool is brought over from Australasia Less scouring

    (removing dirt from wool) Less carbonising (acid treatment to removeimpurities from wool) Less dyeing less water pollution.

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    y Thank you