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Someone should have told Italy’s Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini to head south during his visit to Sydney last spring. If he’d explored the NSW beaches stretching from Nowra to Narooma, he’d have been exhilarated to find a steady commitment from restaurants, cafes and producers adhering to his beloved principles.

An easy drive from from Sydney and Canberra, this stretch of coast has always been a popular holiday spot, but these

days you’ll also find increasing numbers of people who are making the most of local produce. Artisan bakers, boutique winemakers and well-regarded city chefs are setting up alongside established oyster farmers and fishermen.

Take the time to discover these as well as the beaches, and it will become obvious why a new wave of seachangers is moving here, bringing with them a vibrancy that lasts well past summer’s peak.

around nowraHungry DuckThe cosmopolitan country town of Berry is the unofficial gateway to the South Coast, and it’s certainly worth a stop for the Hungry Duck. Here, chef David Campbell follows up his successful Sydney cafe, The Book Kitchen, with some exquisite mod-Asian flavours in an intimate shopfront. Get in during daylight hours to see the impressive kitchen garden,

Take your time as you travel down the NSW South Coast, and you’ll discover plenty of foodie gems and artisan producers among the sparkling beaches, lush green hills and pristine National Parks.

WORDS micHael sHafran PHOTOGRAPHY joHn Dennis

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where produce including artichokes, kaffir lime, fresh wasabi and blood oranges go from garden to plate in dishes such as tender braised wagyu brisket with blood orange, cassia bark and star anise. 85 Queen St, Berry, (02) 4464 2323.

Berry sourDougH Bakery & cafeAfter eight years as Berry’s leading cafe, the Sourdough Bakery is adding a weekend dinner menu and liquor licence. Another addition is Caroline Read (ex-Blancmange in Sydney) as head chef, who’ll keep the winning formula going, even as she injects more of her European-

style cooking into the menu. Baked goods remain an attraction including the terrific sourdough, brioche, tarts and teacakes. Enjoy them among the hedges or relax inside and ogle whatever emerges from the antique woodfired oven. 23 Prince Alfred St, Berry, (02) 4464 1617.

For shopping in Berry, start at the ivy-encased Roots & Wings Design (83 Queen St, (02) 4464 2811), which carries a terrific array of fashion labels and homewares. Next, bring the coastal lifestyle home at Cabana Jo’s (168 Albert St, (02) 4464 3490) with classic surfing postcards and beach-style homewares. Hidden in an industrial

complex, The Treat Factory (Unit 6, Old Creamery Ln, (02) 4464 1112) has been offering housemade jams, fudge and marmalades for three generations. THe cake sToreIn the past, Nowra has mostly served drivers seeking a quick pit stop as they head down the coast, but turn off the highway and surprises await along Kinghorne Street. The biggest drawcard is Glenn and Danielle Parkes’ cafe. The couple spent time at the Berry Sourdough Bakery & Cafe, and their skills are evident in luscious baked goods such as chocolate

Clockwise from far left: Mollymook sunrise; David Campbell of Hungry Duck, Berry; Cupitt’s Winery, Ulladulla; seafood plate  and interior at Bannisters, Mollymook; Paperbark Camp, Woollamia; Berry Sourdough Bakery’s Jelle Hilkemeijer; The Cake Store, Nowra; beetroot and feta salad  at Paperbark Camp’s Gunyah Restaurant.

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and orange cake, or raspberry and four-nut tart. The bespoke space touts mix-and-match chairs and white Laminex tables, while the weekly-changing menu offers the likes of banana and date loaf with ricotta and honey, or gnocchi with cherry tomatoes, artichokes and asparagus. 39A Kinghorne St, Nowra, (02) 4423 0063.

Across the road is River Deli (84 Kinghorne St, Nowra, (02) 4423 1344), which started the street’s gourmet ascent. Amid a modern chandelier and dual antique eight-seater tables, you’ll find bread baked onsite, fresh tarts and muffins, quality sandwiches such as mixed-grain loaf with Burrawang cured ham, and pleasing plates like a mille-feuille of caramelised onion and mushroom duxelle.

TenTHousanD TasTeBuDsGood eating options were non-existent in Culburra until three years ago when German-born Britta Opel transformed this site from a ramshackle fish-and-chippery into a gourmet cafe. She serves Toby’s Estate coffee and lunch fare spanning from Moroccan lamb burgers to curry specials. Dinner has just been added to Friday and Saturday nights. 2/167 Prince Edward Ave, Culburra Beach, (02) 4447 4477.

giDgeT goes To culBurraThis cheeky beach shack exudes retro-meets-maritime charm, with vintage Gidget posters over the bed and a wall-high model boat in the lounge area. The two-bedder (plus optional kids’ bunk beds made from an antique wardrobe) is painted brazen pink, but the chick-kitsch exterior is balanced indoors by boy-blue wicker furniture and old bus route signs. There are even dog bowls and toys for the pooch, but just remind Fido to stay off the bed. From $230. 78 Park Row, Culburra Beach, 0400 606 990.

At the Crookhaven Oyster Farmers complex in Greenwell Point, you’ll find the first of many oyster farms along the South Coast, including Bed Rock Oysters (11/170 Greens Rd, 0413 480 972). This quality producer farms by hand using eco-friendly materials, and shucks on demand, preserving the river liquor inside.

Two figs wineryIT executive Shayne Bricker’s fascination with wine led him to this hilltop vineyard. His focus is on soft, approachable wines with natural acidity and plenty of fruit flavour. Check out the lovely verdelho. 905 Bolong Rd, Berry (02) 4448 5003.

coolangaTTa esTaTeOf the scattering of South Coast wineries, Coolangatta stands at the top for consistent quality. Semillon is the standout, aided by Hunter Valley stalwart Tyrrell’s as winemaker. Check out the improbable bottling of tannat, a French varietal as dark as squid ink. At the restaurant, $25 buys a regional lunch plate with four tasting glasses of wine. 1335 Bolong Rd, Shoalhaven Heads, (02) 4448 7131.

camBewarra esTaTeNorth-west of Nowra, this estate has an excellent verdelho and good chardonnay. Even if they’re not on the list, try to get a taste of the regarded blanc de blanc sparkling and late-harvest chardonnay. 520 Illaroo Rd, Banglee, (02) 4446 0170.

around jervis bayTHe gunyaH resTauranT & PaPerBark camPGongs have come and gone at Paperbark Camp’s flagship restaurant, but the magic has returned under new chef John Evans, who earned a hat at 3 Weeds in Sydney’s Rozelle. John’s rustic European cooking seamlessly fits with the designer treehouse aesthetic, candlelit setting, wood fire and balcony with gum tree panoramas. Grab a drink on the deck, then head indoors for pepperberry-spiced kangaroo loin or slow-cooked pork belly with morcilla and caramelised apple. Paperbark Camp itself remains one of the South Coast’s most inspired stays. The bushland setting offers luxury canvas tents from Botswana, the deluxe versions with freestanding baths and king beds. Seclusion is only interrupted by the occasional neighbour: maybe a sugar glider or kangaroo. From $340 per double including breakfast. 571 Woollamia Rd, Woollamia, (02) 4441 7299, paperbarkcamp.com.au.

seagrass BrasserieYou’ll find Husky’s premier restaurant, Seagrass, located in a refurbished cottage. Here, the modern, festive dining area stretches from pillow-lined benches under a tented patio to the restored wood floors and white-painted beams of the main room. Chef Kierrin McKnight gives Mod Oz a good name with offerings such as braised pork belly with rice noodles or pan-seared salmon fillet with Southern Thai panang curry. 13 Currambene St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 6124.

suPPlyThis cheery space combines cafe, fruit shop, deli and gourmet goods supplier. Belinda Bunter features many products from the region, including her grandmother’s Southern Highlands harvests. She also brews a great latte – enjoy it with a brekkie of yoghurt pannacotta and almond granola. 1/54 Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5815.

Another good option is Locavore (2/66 Owen St, Huskisson, (02) 4441 5464), which sources produce from within 100 miles and offers such temptations as roast pumpkin tartlets with organic feta and chilli jam.

Just past Jervis Bay overlooking placid St Georges Basin, By the Beach B&B (260 Greville Ave, Sanctuary Pt, (02) 4443 3208, bythebeachbandb.com.au, from $160 per double) is a collection of affordable, expansive studios with polished concrete floors, high ceilings, heaps of closet space and views over Palm Beach.

around ulladullarick sTein aT BannisTersNo South Coast restaurant has been more hotly anticipated than October’s opening of Rick Stein’s first Australian outpost. Seafood, naturally, is the raison d’être, with head chef Julian Lloyd (a veteran of Rick’s UK restaurant) serving up lobster ravioli in spinach and basil sauce, Indonesian seafood curry, and a mixed shellfish plate with the rare inclusion of periwinkles. The elegant white room creates intimacy with sheer hanging screens, while a glass outlook and balcony offer ocean views through the trees. The floor is run by manager Toby Evans, son of the late,

Clockwise from top right: Bunyas Organics  & Antiques, Milton; Belinda and Glenda Bunter of Supply, Huskisson; roasted snapper with parsnip puree and red wine  jus at The Gunyah Restaurant, Woollamia; Tyler’s Kitchen; Josh Tyler; Culburra Beach.

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legendary Australian winemaker Len, with his influence shown in the well-crafted wine list. The wet-edge pool alone is worth a stay here, spilling over to endless sea views. Most rooms offer ocean outlooks from private decks, or splash out on the new Pinnacle penthouse, with a home cinema, indoor and outdoor showers and steam room. For more private luxury, there’s also the four-bed Bannister Blue, plus the restored 1960s “Rick’s Place”, overlooking the cliffs from a wraparound deck with a gourmet kitchen and hot tub. From $230 per double including breakfast. 191 Mitchell Pde, Mollymook, (02) 4455 3044, bannisters.com.au.

cuPiTT’s wineryRosie Cupitt was already busy as founder of the Shoalhaven’s Slow Food convivium. She now channels her Slow Food ethos into this hilltop restaurant, vineyard and cattle property, with views of the Budawang Ranges and Burrill Lake. In the Vineyard Kitchen, chef Damien Martin (ex-Bannisters and Quay) delivers skilled plates that let the locally sourced produce shine. Thin-sliced beetroot is paired with fried zucchini flowers and soft goat’s curd, while beef eye fillet arrives perfectly cooked with muscatel puree and a mushroom velouté. In the winery, Rosie brings a focus seldom seen in the area: backgrounds in horticulture and landscaping, schooling in chemistry and winemaking, and working vintages in France. This is her third vintage, but the fruits of her labour are already showing. ‘Alphonse’, a lightly wooded sauvignon blanc, has a citrus complexity that’s the antithesis of passionfruit pops. Tastings are held in an 1851 stone structure that was once a creamery. 58 Washburton Rd, Ulladulla, (02) 4455 7888.

Pilgrims cafeOne bite of the glorious Bliss Burger – a vegie patty topped with tabbouleh, sprouts, avocado and peanut sauce – explains why locals swear by it. The vibe is more hip than hippie, with surfboards hung from walls and fresh-squeezed juice blends named after surf breaks. Shop 8, The Settlement, Princes Hwy, Milton, (02) 4455 3421.

Alternatively, retreat to the beach house with gourmet takeaway from The Kitchen (Shop 3, 105 Princes Hwy, Milton, (02) 4454 2042), which serves just-baked meat pies, curries and housemade ice creams.

While in Milton, visit Bunyas Organics & Antiques (127 Princes Hwy, (02) 4455 7022), where Susan Curran sells eggs from her free-range chooks and greens from her garden, as well as vintage meat safes converted into cupboards.

A year ago, Jasper Peel Breads (10 Watson St, Ulladulla, (02) 4455 7969) stepped out of the shadows of its hard-to-find arcade location and moved its organic breadmaking into this roomier space in the centre of town. Now, the secret is out about Jasper’s terrific breads, including classic or spelt sourdoughs, rustic Italian, oily Turkish, oat and grain, and wheat-free rye.

THe fisH sHoPThe South Coast is blessed with excellent fish-and-chipperies, and among the finest is The Fish Shop. Fish arrive nightly from the Ulladulla trawlers, then are filleted each morning. Owner Zoran Praja once managed the Ulladulla Fisherman’s Co-op, so thank his connections for the flathead, albacore, ling, moonfish and mahi mahi that grace the list, depending on the day’s catch. 107 Princes Hwy, Burrill Lake, (02) 4455 1906

around batemans bay Bawley Vale esTaTeHeading south from Burrill Lake, you’ll find this winery where every bottle comes from hand-picked grapes and is named after a nearby landmark. The signature ‘No Toes’ (named for a local surf break) is a shiraz, cabernet sav and chambourcin blend. There’s jazz among in the vines on long weekends, where you might spot local wine guru Greg Duncan Powell playing with his rockabilly band. Bawley Pt Rd, Bawley Pt, (02) 4457 2555.

norTH sT cafe & BarNot only does Drew Tweedie’s cafe specialise in gluten-free breads and cakes baked onsite, it’s also one of the top stops in town. Other gems include spelt pappardelle with roast eggplant, octopus salad with

capsicum and fennel, and daily wraps with filling such as roast duck and beetroot relish. Regular music nights feature indie bands on their way between cities. 5 North St, Batemans Bay, (02) 4472 5710.

While in the Bay, try Pearly Oyster Bar (6 North St, (02) 4472 4233), run by a family that’s been farming oysters for 30 years.

Tyler’s kiTcHenThe coast south of Batemans Bay has terrific beaches but lacked a champion eatery until September’s opening of Tyler’s Kitchen in pretty Malua Bay. Josh Tyler grew up here and returned to make his mark after a stint as head chef at Canberra’s Benchmark. The modern European menu (think mushroom lasagne with tarragon emulsion, or squid ink-marinated kingfish) changes daily, and produce is a community effort: strawberries are raised over the hill and beetroot arrives from down the road. The bright space is augmented by a wall of chalkboards filled with enthusiastic scribblings by patrons. 4 Kuppa Ave, Malua Bay, (02) 4471 1122.

THe riVer moruyaAre three chefs better than one? They are at this riverside indoor-outdoor restaurant run by three friends. All are French-trained, have cooked in the UK, and arrived from hatted Melbourne fine diners. Tim Saffery and Peter Compton (ex-The Court House) run the kitchen, while Tobie Patrick (ex-Circa, the Prince) heads up pastry, all producing fare worthy of a city setting – and for less dosh. Start with salmon beignets with parsnip puree, then tuck into pan-roasted Bermagui kingfish with crabmeat-stuffed zucchini flowers. Save space for dessert – maybe an airy chocolate delice with cherry and coconut ice cream. 16B Church St, Moruya, (02) 4474 5505.

around naroomaTuross Boatshed & Cafe (93 Trafalgar Rd, Tuross Head, (02) 4473 8127), set on pristine Tuross Lake, is a top location for fish and chips – a fresh catch of prawns and oysters arrives on Fridays, so weekends are best. For a longer lunch, hit the adjoining Pickled Octopus (93D Trafalgar Rd, Tuross Head, (02) 4473 6084) with its outdoor barbie. P

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Clockwise from above: the deck at Bodalla Dairy Shed; Rosie Cupitt; Cupitt’s Winery, Ulladulla; Pilgrims Cafe, Milton; raspberry and lime curd mille-feuille at Berry’s Hungry Duck; Bunyas Organics & Antiques, Milton.

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map keyBannisters.............................................. 7Bawley Vale estate ............................... 10Bed Rock Oysters ................................... 3Berry Sourdough Bakery & Cafe ........... 1Bodalla Dairy Shed .............................. 15Bunyas Organics & Antiques ................. 6By The Beach B&B ................................. 5Cabana Jo’s ............................................ 1Cambewarra estate ............................... 2Coolangatta estate ................................ 1Cupitt’s Vineyard Kitchen & Winery ...... 8Gidget Goes to Culburra ........................ 3Hungry Duck .......................................... 1Jasper Peel Breads ............................... 8Montague Coffee .................................. 16North St Cafe & Bar ............................. 11Paperbark Camp.................................... 4Pearly Oyster Bar ................................ 11Pickled Octopus ................................... 14 Pilgrims Cafe ......................................... 6River Deli ............................................... 2Roots & Wings Design ........................... 1Saltwater at Narooma ......................... 16Seagrass Brasserie ............................... 4South Coast Cheese ............................. 15Supply .................................................... 4Tenthousand Tastebuds ......................... 3The Cake Store....................................... 2The fish Shop ........................................ 9The Gunyah Restaurant ......................... 4The River Moruya ................................. 13The Treat factory ................................... 1The Whale Restaurant ......................... 16Tilba Valley Wines ................................ 16Tuross Boatshed & Cafe ...................... 14Two figs Winery ..................................... 1Tyler’s Kitchen ..................................... 12

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BoDalla Dairy sHeDThis groovy milk bar prides itself on shakes and burgers made with local dairy and meat – chef Ruben Poole (ex-The River Moruya) has just joined the kitchen, so stay tuned. The former factory’s fridge and maturation shelves are here, joined by a 1962 AMI jukebox, plus you can take home moo-themed kitchenware. Outside, discover picnic tables made from colourful painted doors and a relaxing deck area. A new cheesemaking facility will soon bring modern wheys to Bodalla’s cheesy history. 52 Princes Hwy, Bodalla, (02) 4473 5555.

While in Bodalla, catch South Coast Cheese (22 Potato Point Rd, Bodalla, (02) 4473 5287) before it relocates to Tilba Tilba as part of a major expansion. Cheddar and tasty cheeses are a specialty.

THe wHale resTauranTYes, it’s in an uninspired motel, but step inside to discover Parisian chef Gilbert Prevost serving fusion fare to a Slow Food beat – perhaps Eden mussels (from further down south) with bamboo shoot coleslaw – plus dazzling panoramic vistas of the wave-battered coast. 104 Wagonga St, Narooma, (02) 4476 2411.

monTague coffeeThe Eurobodalla region has gotten itself on the coffee map with this boutique roaster and cafe, which roasts several single-estate coffees via a Turkish Has Garanti machine. Most beans are organic or Fairtrade, as are the chocolates for sale. 2/40 Princes Hwy, Narooma, (02) 4405 9523.

TilBa Valley winesAt this small vineyard, whose plantings date back to 1978, enjoy the unwooded chardonnay or chambourcin rosé, maybe with Londoner owner Peter Herrmann’s ploughman’s lunch. 947 Old Hwy, Narooma, (02) 4473 7308.

The small, modern B&B Saltwater at Narooma (1A Water Cres, Narooma, (02) 4476 2468, from $210 per double with breakfast, saltwaternarooma.com) offers a room with ensuite and spa or suite with kitchenette. Breakfast is a highlight, with cafe-style fare such as banana crepes. d.Thanks to Tourism NSW for their assistance. For more information, go to: visitnsw.com.au. ABC South East NSW broadcasts to the South Coast, and you’ll find their food-related features and podcasts at abc.net.au/southeastnsw.

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