the electrical system (isuzu)
TRANSCRIPT
1
INTRODUCTION
GENERAL
This section has the descriptions and service proceduresfor the electrical systems for the Isuzu C240 (2.4L) die-sel engine. The section includes the starting and charg-ing systems.
CAUTIONWhen using an arc welder, always disconnect theground lead from the lift truck battery to preventalternator or battery damage. Attach the weldingground clamp as close to the weld area as possible toprevent welding current from damaging thebearings.
The diodes and resistors in the electrical system canbe damaged if the following cautions are notfollowed:
• Do not disconnect the battery when the engineis running. The voltage surge can damage thediodes and resistors in the electrical system.
• Do not disconnect an electric wire before theengine is stopped and the switches are “OFF”.
• Do not cause a short–circuit by connecting theelectric wires to the wrong terminals. Makesure a correct identification is made of the wirebefore it is connected.
• Make sure a battery is the correct voltage andpolarity before it is connected.
• Do not check for current flow by making aspark because the electronic components canbe damaged.
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Always disconnect the battery ground cable beforemaking repairs to prevent possible damage andinjury. Install a tag on the battery terminal so that noone connects the cable on the terminal.
DESCRIPTION
Starting System (See FIGURE 1.)
The starting system includes the starter circuit and thecircuit for the cold start aid. The starter circuit includesthe following: (1) starter, (2) battery, (3) neutral startswitches and (4) key switch. The circuit for the cold startaid includes the following: (1) the glow plugs for eachcylinder, (2) the resistor, (3) the switch for the cold startaid, (4) the key switch and (5) the battery.
The starter has a drive gear, an idler gear and a clutch as-sembly to increase starter torque. The clutch assembly ismagnetically pushed out of the housing to engage theflywheel teeth. The starter motor rotates the drive gear.The drive gear engages and rotates the larger idler gear.The idler gear engages the teeth on the clutch assemblywhen the magnet of the solenoid is energized. A smallgear on the end of the clutch assembly engages the teethon the flywheel. When the starter is energized, the sole-noid makes the clutch assembly engage the idler gearand flywheel. At approximately the same time, thestarter motor energizes to rotate the flywheel to start theengine.
The key switch must be in the START position. Theneutral start switch must also be in the ON position toenergize the starter. The neutral start switch is in the ONposition when the transmission is in the NEUTRAL po-sition.
The glow plugs for the cold start aid heat the fuel fromthe injectors. Heating the fuel lowers the combustionpoint of the fuel. The glow plugs are resistance heatersthat have parallel electrical connections. The glowplugs, resistor and switch for the cold start aid are elec-trically in series with the following parts: (1) the fuse,(2) the key switch and (3) the battery. The glow plugsheat the fuel when the button for the cold start aid ispushed. The key switch must also be in the START orRUN position to energize the glow plugs.
Charging System (See FIGURE 2.)
The charging system includes the alternator, regulatorand battery. The regulator controls the alternator tocharge the battery. The battery voltage decreases as thestarting circuit and other circuits drain current from thebattery. The regulator senses this decrease in batteryvoltage and increases the alternator output to charge thebattery. The alternator supplies all the necessary current,within it’s maximum, when the engine is operating. Thealternator is either ON or OFF. The alternator generatesfull current at a given rpm, if it is ON. It generates nocurrent if it is OFF. The regulator switches the alternatorbetween ON and OFF to get the average charging cur-rent needed. Alternator output is directly changed by en-gine speed and the rotor current. The regulator controlsthe rotor current.
2
FIGURE 1. THE STARTING CIRCUIT
9540
CIRCUIT FOR COLD START AIDSTARTER CIRCUIT
TO BATTERY
9541
1. GLOW PLUG2. RESISTOR3. SWITCH4. FUSE5. KEY SWITCH
1. BATTERY2. STARTER3. “S” TERMINAL4. BATTERY TERMINAL5. NEUTRAL START SWITCH6. KEY SWITCH
FIGURE 2. THE CHARGING CIRCUIT
9542
1. ALTERNATOR (WITH VACUUM PUMP)
2. CONNECTOR3. OTHER BATTERY CIRCUITS
4. KEY SWITCH5. BATTERY6. INDICATOR7. REGULATOR
3
The alternator has three main parts: (1) the stator, (2) therotor and (3) the diode assembly. Mechanical powerfrom the engine turns the rotor inside the stator wind-ings. The regulator controls the flow of battery currentto the rotor brushes, slip rings and rotor windings. Amagnetic field that rotates is the result of this currentflow and mechanical power. The magnetic field makescurrent flow in the stator windings. This current is ACand is changed to DC by the diodes to become the alter-nator output. The output from the alternator connects tothe positive terminal of the battery to charge the battery.
Trucks that have power brakes with a brake booster usean alternator that has a vacuum pump fastened to the rearof the alternator. See FIGURE 3. Also see FIGURE 6.This alternator has the voltage regulator as part of the al-ternator. Trucks that do not have a booster use a differentalternator. See FIGURE 9. The voltage regulator for thisalternator is a separate part fastened to the air cleanerbracket on the hydraulic tank. See FIGURE 10.
Vacuum Pump On Alternator(On Units With Brake Booster)(See FIGURE 3.)
The vacuum pump for the brake booster is fastened tothe rear cover of the alternator and is driven by the rotorshaft of the alternator. The vacuum pump removes theair from the diaphragm chamber of the brake booster forcorrect operation of the service brakes. Oil from the en-gine is supplied to lubricate the vanes of the vacuumpump. The oil returns to the engine crankcase throughthe hose for the air exhaust of the vacuum pump.
The vacuum pump has four vanes that slide in slots in arotor that is fastened to the alternator shaft. The vanesare moved outward against the housing by centrifugalforce. The center of the bore of the housing is not at thecenter of the rotor. This location causes the vanes tomove inward and outward in the rotor slots when the ro-tor rotates. The different centers causes the volume be-tween any two vanes to increase as that section rotatespast the inlet port and to decrease as the section comesnear the outlet port. A small amount of air from the brakebooster enters the inlet port when the section betweentwo vanes expands. This air is transferred by the vanesto the area near the outlet port. The air is compressed as
it enters the outlet port, through a check valve, to thehose for return oil.
Oil from the engine oil pump flows through a hose to thecenter of the vacuum pump to lubricate the rotor assem-bly. An oil seal in the rear cover of the alternator pre-vents oil from entering the alternator. O–rings preventoil leaks from the center of the plate.
7. OIL SEAL8. OIL INLET9. ROTOR AND VANES
10. CHECK VALVE, EXHAUST11. OIL OUTLET12. VACUUM INLET
FIGURE 3. VACUUM PUMP ON ALTERNATOR
ONLY ON LIFT TRUCKS WITHA BRAKE BOOSTER1. PULLEY
2. ROTOR3. STATOR4. BRUSHES5. SLIP RINGS6. VOLTAGE
REGULATOR
4
REPAIRS
NOTE: Use the TROUBLESHOOTING and CHECKSsections of this SRM before starting any repair proce-dures. Make sure that repair or replacement of that partis necessary before removal, disassembly or replace-ment of the part.
STARTER
Removal And Disassembly(See FIGURE 4. and FIGURE 5.)
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replacethe part that has damage.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminalof the battery.
2. Hold the starter to keep it from falling. Remove thetwo capscrews that fasten the starter to the flywheelhousing.
3. Put labels on the starter electrical leads for correctconnection during installation. Remove all electricalleads fastened to the starter terminals.
4. Remove the motor lead at the solenoid terminal. Re-move the two capscrews that fasten the motor to the so-lenoid housing. Remove the motor from the solenoidhousing.
CAUTIONDo not let the drive gear, idler gear, retainer and roll-ers or clutch, ball and spring fall. These parts can fallwhen the cover housing is removed.
5. Remove the two screws that fasten the end housing tothe solenoid housing. Carefully remove the end housingand the drive gear.
6. Carefully remove the idler gear, retainer and rollers.Remove the clutch assembly, ball and spring from thesolenoid housing.
NOTE: Do not disassemble the clutch assembly. Sepa-rate parts cannot be replaced. If parts need replacing, re-place the clutch assembly as a single unit.
7. To replace the brushes, armature bearings, armatureand motor housing, the following steps must be done.Do only the steps necessary to replace the bad part.
a. Lift the brush spring at each brush and removeeach brush from the brush holder.
b. Remove the brush holder from the motor hous-ing. Remove the felt washer.
c. Remove the armature from the motor housing bylightly hitting the motor housing. See FIGURE 5.Do not hit the brushes or brush leads. Use a ham-mer that has a plastic or fiber face.
d. Use a bearing puller to remove the armature bear-ings from the armature.
e. Replace the positive brushes as shown inFIGURE 5. Replace the brush holder to replacethe negative brushes.
Assembly And Installation(See FIGURE 4. and FIGURE 5.)
1. Completely fill the armature bearings using high tem-perature “Mobiltemp Grease No. 1” or an equivalenthigh temperature grease. Use a press to install the bear-ings on the armature. Use a hammer that has a soft headto install the armature in the motor housing.
2. Use the same high temperature grease on the follow-ing parts: (1) drive gear, (2) idler gear, (3) rollers and re-tainer, (4) spring and ball and (5) clutch assembly.
3. Use the grease to help keep the rollers for the idlergear in the correct position in the retainer.
4. Do not short–circuit the leads for the positive brushes.Make sure the metal strips do not touch the motor hous-ing or brush holder. See FIGURE 5.Make sure the brushholder correctly fits in the motor housing.
5. Put grease on these parts as described in Steps 1 and 2.Assemble the parts of the starter in the following order:
a. Armature bearing and felt washer on the arma-ture
b. Armature in the motor housing
c. Brush holder in motor housing
d. Brushes in brush holder
e. New O–ring on motor housing
f. Ball and spring in clutch assembly
g. Clutch assembly in solenoid housing
h. Motor in solenoid housing
i. Drive gear on splines of armature
5
FIGURE 4. PARTS OF THE STARTER
9543
1. MOTORA. BRUSH HOLDERB. BRUSH SPRINGC. FELT WASHERD. ARMATURE AND BEARINGSE. BRUSH (4)F. MOTOR HOUSING
2. SCREW3. CAPSCREW4. O–RING5. END HOUSING
4
6. RETAINER7. ROLLER8. IDLER GEAR9. DRIVE GEAR
10. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY11. BALL12. SPRING13. SOLENOID HOUSING14. MOTOR “C” TERMINAL
(“S” AND BATTERY TERMINALSON THE OTHER SIDE)
1
A
B
C
D
F
E
14
9
4
5
13
12
11
10
87
63
1
6
FIGURE 5. STARTER MOTOR REPAIR
Remove the armature from the mo-tor housing. Use a hammer thathas a plastic or fiber face.
Heat the metal strip using a solderiron. Remove the brush lead whenthe strip is hot and the solder is liq-uid.
Straighten the metal strip. Twist theend of the new brush lead to put thewires together. Apply heat andsome solder to the end of the brushlead. Put the insulation sleeve onthe brush lead. Bend the metal striparound the brush lead. Apply heatand solder to the strip and brushlead.
9544 9545 9546
j. Idler gear, rollers and retainer on gear shaft of so-lenoid housing
k. End housing on solenoid housing
l. Screws for end cover and capscrews using newO–rings
m. Motor lead on solenoid terminal
6. Tighten screws and capscrews to 7 to 12 N.m (5 to 9lbf ft).
7. Hold the starter in a position to connect the electricalleads to the BATTERY and S terminals of the starter.Connect the leads as marked on the labels. Tighten theBATTERY terminal nut to 4 to 7 N.m (3 to 5 lbf ft).
8. Install the starter on the flywheel housing and connectthe battery cable to the battery negative terminal.
REPLACING GLOW PLUGS
The glow plugs for the cold start aid are directly belowthe injectors on the engine. They cannot be repaired andare replaced if bad. Disconnect the electrical wire at themetal strip connected to all the glow plugs. Remove thenuts from all of the glow plugs and remove the metalstrip. Use a wrench to remove the glow plugs and installthe replacement glow plugs. Install the metal strip andwire.
ALTERNATOR (With Vacuum Pump)
Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 7. and FIGURE 6.)
CAUTIONThere are some checks for alternator output that aredone with the alternator installed on the engine. Dothe checks in the CHECKS section BEFORE remov-ing and disassembling the alternator.
Before disassembling the alternator, make marks onall housings for correct alignment during assembly.
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replacethe part that has damage.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminalof the battery. Mark the front housing, stator and rearcover for correct alignment during assembly.
2. Put labels on the electrical leads that are not in the al-ternator connector. Remove the leads from the terminalsand disconnect the connector at the connector lead of thealternator.
3. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the vacuum pump.Remove the special capscrew for the oil line fitting. Re-move the capscrews and nuts that fasten the alternator tothe engine bracket. Remove the alternator.
7
4. Remove the three screws that fasten the vacuumpump and remove the vacuum pump. Carefully pull thevacuum pump assembly and the center plate off thesplines of the alternator shaft.
5. Remove the center plate and large O–ring. Carefullyremove the rotor and vanes. Keep the vanes in the rotorslots. Remove the small O–ring from the alternatorshaft.
6. Remove the bolts that fasten the alternator together.
Carefully remove the front housing and rotor assemblyfrom the stator and rear cover.
7. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tightenthe vise to cause rotor distortion. Use a socket wrench toremove the pulley nut. Remove the pulley, fan and fronthousing from the rotor.
8. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-tainer to the front housing. Remove the retainer and ballbearing.
18. PACKING19. SPECIAL FITTING20. CHECK VALVE21. PUMP HOUSING22. SPECIAL CAPSCREW
FOR OIL LINE FITTING23. FITTING BOLT24. BOLT
FIGURE 6. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR (WITH VACUUM PUMP)
9548
1. ROTOR AND BEARING2. STATOR3. FRONT HOUSING4. BEARING5. BEARING RETAINER6. PULLEY AND FAN7. NUT AND LOCKWASHER8. REGULATOR AND BRUSH ASSEMBLY9. DIODE ASSEMBLY
10. OIL SEAL11. REAR COVER12. O–RING13. CENTER PLATE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
11
10
24
16
15
14
13
23
18
17 18
18
12 12
1918
9
22
19
21
20
14. ROTOR VANE15. ROTOR16. VACUUM PUMP
ASSEMBLY17. FITTING
8
FIGURE 7. VACUUM PUMP
ONLY ON LIFT TRUCKS WITHA BRAKE BOOSTER
1. O–RINGS2. CENTER PLATE3. VANES4. ROTOR5. HOUSING
9. Remove the nuts that fasten the rear cover. Removethe rear cover from the stator and diode assembly.
10. Mark the stator to show the position of the brush as-sembly and regulator. Use pliers to hold the diode leadsand keep heat from the diodes. Use a soldering iron toremove the stator leads from the diode assembly.
CAUTIONThe rear (diode end) bearing cannot be used againafter it has been removed from the shaft. To save la-bor costs, replace both bearings whenever the alter-nator is disassembled.
11. Use a bearing puller or press to remove the rear bear-ing from the rotor shaft. See FIGURE 8. Do not damagethe slip rings or shaft.
12. See CHECKS to check and replace the brushes,diode assembly or voltage regulator.
Cleaning
CAUTIONNever use solvent on the stator or rotor windings.Use a dry cloth to clean these parts. Use solvent on a
cloth to clean other external parts of the alternator.Dry the parts with compressed air.
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
NOTE: To polish the snap rings, use a special paper thathas a rough surface on one side. The special paper mustbe number 500 to 600. Turn the rotor while polishing theslip rings.
Use solvent to clean the parts of the vacuum pump.
Assembly And Installation (See FIGURE 7. and FIGURE 6.)
1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect thestator leads. Align the brush and voltage regulator as-sembly at the mark on the stator. Use pliers to hold thediode leads and use a soldering iron to connect the statorleads to the diode assembly. Keep the pliers near thediode to protect the diodes from the heat.
2. Install the new ball bearing and the bearing retainer onthe front housing using the three screws.
1. PRESS2. ROTOR3. BEARING PULLER
FIGURE 8. REMOVING REAR BEARING
1
2
3
2
9
3. Use a press to carefully install a new bearing on therotor shaft (diode end). See FIGURE 8. Do not damagethe slip rings or shaft.
4. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tightenthe vise to cause rotor distortion. The end of the shaftthat has threads must be up. Install the front housing,fan, pulley, lockwasher and nut on the rotor shaft. Tight-en the nut using a socket wrench.
5. Align the marks and install the stator and diode as-sembly on the rotor. Hold the brushes away from the sliprings during installation. Use a pin or wire in the hole ofthe brush holder.
6. Align the marks and install the oil seal and rear coveron the stator and rotor. Install the bolts that fasten the al-ternator together. Tighten the nuts.
7. Install the insulator on the battery terminal and installthe nuts that fasten the diode and brush assemblies. Thebattery terminal must not touch the rear cover.
8. Put clean engine oil on all inside parts of the vacuumpump and the O–rings. Install the vacuum pump on thealternator as follows:
a. Install the rotor of the vacuum pump into thehousing. Install the rotor so that the end of the ro-tor hat has the recess can be seen. Install the vanesso that the round edges are toward the bore in thehousing.
b. Install a new O–ring in the groove of the housingand install the center plate on the housing. Alignthe plate and housing mount holes.
c. Put tape over the splines and install a new O–ringon the shaft. Remove all of the the tape.
d. Use a screwdriver to carefully align the rotor inthe center of the pump housing. Lift the alternatorover the pump assembly and carefully install theshaft into the center plate and rotor of the pump.Align the holes in the center cover, pump housingand alternator and install the three screws to fas-ten the pump housing to the alternator. Tightenthe three screws evenly to 5.5 to 6.8 N.m (4 to 5lbf ft) torque.
e. Pour 5cc (one teaspoon) of clean engine oil intothe oil inlet port of the vacuum pump. SeeFIGURE 3. Turn the alternator pulley by hand.The pulley must turn smoothly.
9. Install the alternator on the engine brackets. Makesure to install the cable clamp on the top capscrew. Makesure the fan belt is on all the pulleys and has the correcttension. See the section PERIODIC MAINTE-NANCE, 8000 SRM 29 for the S/H1.25–3.00XL(S/H25–60XL). See the section PERIODIC MAIN-TENANCE, 8000 SRM 493 for the H2.00–3.20XM(H40–65XM).
ALTERNATOR (Without Vacuum Pump)
Removal And Disassembly (See FIGURE 9.)
CAUTIONThere are some checks for alternator output that aredone with the alternator installed on the engine. Dothe checks in the CHECKS section BEFORE remov-ing and disassembling the alternator.
Before disassembling the alternator, make marks onall housings for correct alignment during assembly.
NOTE: Do only the steps that are necessary to replacethe part that has damage.
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminalof the battery.
2. Put labels on the electrical leads that are not in the al-ternator connector. Remove the leads from the terminalsand disconnect the connector at the connector lead of thealternator.
3. Remove the capscrews and nuts that fasten the alter-nator to the engine bracket. Remove the alternator.
4. Remove the three bolts that fasten the end housings ofthe alternator together.
5. Put the alternator rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Donot tighten the vise to cause rotor distortion. Use asocket wrench to remove the pulley nut. Remove thepulley, fan, collar and end housing from the rotor.
6. Remove the three screws that fasten the bearing re-tainer to the end housing. Remove the bearing retainer,ball bearing, collar and felt washer.
7. Remove the nuts that fasten the end cover. Removethe end cover, stator and diode assembly from the endhousing.
10
FIGURE 9. PARTS OF THE ALTERNATOR (WITHOUT VACUUM PUMP)
9548
1. BOLT2. PULLEY NUT AND
LOCK WASHER3. FAN COLLAR4. END HOUSING5. COLLAR6. END HOUSING7. FELT WASHER
8. BALL BEARING9. BEARING RETAINER
10. ROTOR11. STATOR12. BRUSH13. BRUSH SPRING14. DIODE ASSEMBLY15. END COVER16. CONNECTOR LEAD
8. Mark the stator to show the position of the brushes andconnector. Use pliers to keep heat from the diodes. Use asoldering iron to remove the stator leads from the diodeassembly.
CAUTIONThe rear (diode end) bearing cannot be used againafter it has been removed from the shaft. To save la-
11
bor costs, replace both bearings whenever the alter-nator is disassembled.
9. Use a bearing puller or press to remove the rear bear-ing from the rotor shaft. See FIGURE 8. Do not damagethe slip rings or shaft.
10. See CHECKS to check and replace the brushes ordiode assembly.
Cleaning
CAUTIONNever use solvent on the stator or rotor windings.Use a dry cloth to clean these parts. Use solvent on acloth to clean other external parts of the alternator.Dry the parts with compressed air.
Use compressed air to remove dirt from the alternator.Clean the brushes and slip rings with a clean dry cloth.
NOTE: To polish the snap rings, use a special paper thathas a rough surface on one side. The special paper mustbe number 500 to 600. Turn the rotor while polishing theslip rings.
Assembly And Installation (See FIGURE 9.)
1. Hold the diode assembly in a position to connect thestator leads. Align the brushes and connector at the markon stator. Use pliers to hold the diode leads and use a sol-dering iron to connect the stator leads to the diode as-sembly. Keep the pliers near the diode to protect the di-odes from the heat.
2. Install the felt washer, collar, ball bearing and bearingretainer on the end housing using the three screws.
3. Use a press to carefully install a new bearing on therotor shaft (diode end). See FIGURE 8. Do not damagethe slip rings or shaft.
4. Put the rotor in a vise that has soft jaws. Do not tightenthe vise to cause rotor distortion. The end of the shaftthat has threads must be up. Install the collar, end hous-ing, collar, fan, pulley, lock washer and nut on the shaft.Tighten the nut using a socket wrench.
5. Install the stator and diode assembly on the rotor andend housing. Hold the brushes away from the slip ringsduring installation. Use a pin or wire in the hole of thebrush holder.
5. Install the other end housing and end cover over thediode assembly and stator. Make sure to install the insu-lator on the battery terminal. The battery terminal mustnot touch the end housing or end cover.
6. Install the three bolts and nuts that hold the alternatortogether. Tighten the nuts.
7. Install the alternator on the engine brackets. Makesure to install the cable clamp on the top capscrew. Makesure the fan belt is on all the pulleys and has the correcttension. See the section PERIODIC MAINTE-NANCE, 8000 SRM 29 for the S/H1.25–3.00XL(S/H25–60XL). See the section PERIODIC MAIN-TENANCE, 8000 SRM 493 for the H2.00–3.20XM(H40–65XM).
9. Install the alternator connector and leads. Connect theleads as marked on the labels. Connect the battery cableto the terminal on the battery.
FIGURE 10. REGULATOR MOUNT
1. BATTERY2. ALTERNATOR3. VOLTAGE REGULATOR4. STARTER
1
2
3
4
WITHOUT BRAKE BOOSTER ONLY
9559
12
REGULATOR REPLACEMENT(See FIGURE 10.)
1. Disconnect the battery cable at the negative terminalof the battery.
2. Disconnect the cable connector near the regulator.
3. Remove the two capscrews that fasten the air filter tothe bracket on the hydraulic tank.
4. Remove the two nuts that fasten the bracket to the hy-draulic tank. Remove the bracket and regulator from thelift truck.
5. Put the bracket in a vise. Use a drill to remove the riv-ets that fasten the regulator to the bracket.
6. Install the new regulator on the bracket using rivets.Make sure the connector and wires are on the long edgeof the bracket.
7. Install the bracket, air filter, cable connector and bat-tery cable.
CHECKS
GENERAL
There are no adjustments for the starter, cold start aid,alternator, or regulator.
Clean the terminals on the battery. Inspect the insulationon the wires. Make sure all the fasteners and connec-tions are clean and tight.
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Put the transmission in NEUTRAL. Apply the park-ing brake.
CAUTIONDo not change the polarity of the circuits. Do not con-nect any wires in the circuits, except as shown inthese instructions. Never connect the wire from theterminal marked “BAT” to an open circuit.
Make sure the alternator and the battery have the samepolarity for the electrical ground. When connecting acharger or another battery, connect the negative termi-nals to the negative terminals. Then connect the positiveterminals to the positive terminals. Problems in thecharging circuit are indicated by one or more of the fol-lowing:
a. The starter motor turns slower than the specifica-tion.
b. The specific gravity of the electrolyte in the bat-tery is below specification.
c. The battery requires more than one ounce of wa-ter per cell per month.
STARTER
Starter Operation (See FIGURE 11.)
The starter is in good condition if the results of thischeck are within the specifications. If the results arewithin specifications, additional checks or starter repairis not necessary.
FIGURE 11. STARTER TEST
9550
1. STARTER2. 150A AMMETER3. VOLTMETER4. 12V BATTERY
1
5. NEGATIVE LEAD6. VISE7. “S” TERMINAL8. BATTERY TERMINAL
32
45
6
7
8
CAUTIONMake sure the minimum cable size to the starter andammeter are 25 mm@ (gauge 4).
1. Remove the starter as described under REPAIR in thissection. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move.
2. Use a 12V battery that has a full charge. Use an amme-ter that has a capacity of 150 amperes minimum. Con-
13
nect the circuit shown in FIGURE 11. Do not connectthe negative lead of the battery to the starter.
3. Hold the negative lead on the starter housing andcheck the indications on the meters. Remove the nega-tive lead.
4. The starter is in good condition if all of the followingitems are correct:
a. Clutch assembly moves to engage flywheel.b. Smooth rotation occurs just after clutch move-
ment.
c. Voltmeter must indicate at least 11.5 volts.
d. Ammeter must indicate 120 amperes or less.
FIGURE 12. SOLENOID COIL CHECKS
9551
2
1. STARTER2. MOTOR LEAD
DISCONNECTED3. MOTOR “C” TERMINAL4. 12V BATTERY5. VISE6. “S” TERMINAL7. BATTERY TERMINAL
2
4
5
6
7
1
3
A
B
A
B
Solenoid Coil Checks (See FIGURE 12.)
The two parts of the solenoid coil work together to pushthe clutch assembly out of the housing. After the clutchassembly is out, one coil deenergizes and the other coilkeeps the assembly out. The clutch assembly must re-turn to the housing when the second part of the coil isdeenergized.
CAUTIONDo not take more than 3 to 5 seconds to do each ofthese checks. Power connected for a longer periodcan burn the coil.
1. Put the starter in a vise so that it cannot move. Discon-nect the motor lead from the solenoid C terminal.
2. Use 4 mm@ (12 gauge) or larger wire to connect thecircuit shown in FIGURE 12. Do NOT connect wire Afrom the positive terminal of the battery to the solenoidS terminal. Use a 12V battery that has a full charge.
3. Make sure wire B to the motor C terminal can bequickly disconnected.
4. Do not keep power connected to the solenoid for morethan 3 to 5 seconds. Be ready to quickly remove wire Bthen wire A from the solenoid terminals. Connect wireA to terminal S. Remove wire B. Remove wire A. Checkfor the following correct solenoid operations:
a. Clutch assembly pushed out as wire A is con-nected.
b. Clutch assembly stays out after wire B is re-moved.
c. Clutch assembly returns to housing after wire Ais removed.
5. If all of the checks of Step 4 – (4.a), (4.b) and ( 4.c) arenot correct, replace the complete starter.
Brush Length
To check the length of the brushes, the motor must be re-moved from the solenoid housing. Remove the startermotor from the solenoid housing. See the REPAIRS sec-tion of this SRM section. Measure from end–to–end ofeach brush. The minimum length is 9.5 mm (0.4 in).
Brush Holder (See FIGURE 13.)
Remove the brush holder from the motor housing as de-scribed in under REPAIRS. Remove the brushes fromthe brush holder. Connect an ohmmeter between eachbracket that holds each brush and the mount plate for thebrackets. The readings for the two positive bracketsmust be infinity. The indications for the two other brack-ets must be zero ohms.
Armature
Remove the armature as described under REPAIRS. Usean ohmmeter. Check for an infinity reading between anycommutator bar and the metal bars of the core. Checkfor continuity between any two commutator bars. Ifeither check is wrong, replace the armature.
14
FIGURE 13. CHECK THE BRUSH HOLDER
9553
1. NEGATIVE BRACKETS2. POSITIVE BRACKETS3. MOUNT PLATE
1 2
2
3
NOTE: BRUSH ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.
Field Windings
Remove the motor, brush holder and armature as de-scribed under REPAIRS. Use ohmmeter to check forcontinuity between positive brush and electrical lead ofthe motor. Check for an indication of infinity between apositive brush and the motor housing. If the indication isnot infinity, check that the brush lead connections arenot touching the housing. If either check is wrong, re-place the complete motor housing.
Clutch And Bearings
Check the teeth of the gear and the teeth on the circum-ference of the clutch assembly. If the teeth are worn ordamaged, replace the clutch assembly. If the gear willrotate in both directions, replace the clutch assembly.Check that the armature bearings will rotate freely andsmoothly. The bearings must not be loose.
COLD START AID
Glow Plugs
Use an ohmmeter to check the glow plugs of the coldstart aid. Check for 1.8 ohms between the barrel and theelectrical terminal. If the ohmmeter indicates zero or in-finity, replace the glow plug.
Resistor
Find the resistor for the cold start aid on the instrumentpanel. Remove the wires from the resistor. Use an ohm-
meter to check the resistor for the cold start aid. Checkfor continuity between the terminals and for infinity be-tween each terminal and the lift truck frame. If eithercheck is bad, replace the resistor.
CHARGING CIRCUIT
Always check the general condition of the complete sys-tem before doing a complete check on each part. Checkthe general condition of the following parts: (1) battery,(2) battery cables and connections and (3) alternator andregulator wires and connectors. Also check the condi-tion and tension of the fan belt for the alternator.
CAUTIONNEVER operate the engine if the alternator output Bterminal is not connected to the battery.
Do not short–circuit or connect jumper wires to anyof the alternator terminals unless told to by the pro-cedures.
Make sure polarity is correct before connecting abattery charger or another battery.
The two problems of the charging circuit are low outputand high output. Low output causes a low battery anddifficult starting. A high output causes heating of thebattery and evaporation of water from the electrolyte.The following two checks will find out if the alternator,regulator or wiring has the charging fault. The twochecks will also find out if the charging system has a cor-rect output. Do the following two checks before re-moval, disassembly or replacement of alternator orregulator.
Check For Low Output (See FIGURE 14.)
CAUTIONMake sure tips on meter leads touch only the pointsor terminals to be checked.
Make sure the tips are small enough to touch the ter-minals in the connectors. The tip must touch the ter-minal. It must not touch just the wire insulation. Thetip must not damage the connector, terminal or wire.
1. Turn the key switch to the ON position. The indicatorfor a discharging battery must be illuminated. Check forbattery positive between the following points and theengine:
a. Battery B terminal of the alternator
15
FIGURE 14. CHECK ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
9559
1. SPECIAL RESISTOR2. BATTERY3. ALTERNATOR4. AMMETER5. RED WIRE6. BATTERY “B” TERMINAL7. ALTERNATOR CONNECTOR LEAD8. JUMPER WIRE TO “B” TERMINAL9. ORANGE WIRE
10. BLACK WIRE11. TO ENGINE WIRING HARNESS12. BROWN WIRE13. METER TIP14. REGULATOR BLUE WIRE15. REGULATOR WHITE WIRE16. REGULATOR17. TO REGULATOR
12
3 456
7
8 9
10
11
13 15 14
1716
8
12
b. IGN terminal of the regulator connector–regula-tor white wire
c. B terminal of the regulator connector–regulatorblue wire
2. If one or more checks of Step 1 are wrong, check thewiring to that terminal. If all three checks of Step 1 aregood, turn the key switch to the OFF position. Discon-nect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.
3. Disconnect the red wire from the battery B terminal ofthe alternator. This wire also connects to the battery ter-
minal of the starter. Connect an ammeter as shown inFIGURE 14. The ammeter must have a capacity of 50amperes. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal ofthe battery.
4. Get a special resistor made for connecting to the bat-tery to check charging systems. This resistor is made ofcarbon for high currents. Adjust the resistor for maxi-mum resistance and connect it to the battery terminals.See FIGURE 14.
�������During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact withthese parts can cause an injury.
5. Start the engine and operate it at the speed set by thegovernor. Adjust the resistor for a maximum reading onthe ammeter.
6. Check for an ammeter reading within the valuesshown in the section CAPACITIES AND SPECIFI-CATIONS for your truck as follows:
S/H1.25–1.75XL (S/H25–35XL) – 8000 SRM 225
S2.00–3.00XL (S40–60XL) – 8000 SRM 260
H2.00–3.00XL (H40–60XL) – 8000 SRM 48
H2.00–3.20XM (H40–65XM) – 8000 SRM 503
Stop the engine. If the indication is within specifica-tions, the charging system does NOT have a low output.Do not do the other steps of this procedure.
7. If the indication is not within specifications, discon-nect the regulator from the alternator. Separate the wireconnectors between the alternator connector lead andthe engine wiring harness.
8. A jumper wire must be connected between the alter-nator F and B terminals. Make the connections at the al-ternator B terminal and the F terminal of the alternatorconnector lead. Make sure the jumper wire is connectedto the F terminal and only the F terminal. SeeFIGURE 14. Do NOT connect the jumper wire to the Bterminal yet. Do NOT disconnect the ammeter from thealternator B terminal or red wire.
9. Temporarily disconnect the resistor from the battery.Start the engine and operate it at idle speed. Reconnectthe resistor to the battery terminals.
10. Carefully touch and hold the jumper wire on the al-ternator B terminal. Check the ammeter for an alternatoroutput and that the current increases as the engine speed
16
SLOWLY increases. Remove the jumper wire from theB terminal and stop the engine.
11. If there was no output in Step 6 and there was an out-put in Step 10, check the following parts: (1) the wiringand wiring connectors between the alternator and regu-lator and (2) the regulator.
12. If there was no output at Step 6 or 10, check the alter-nator connector lead and the alternator.
13. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal ofthe battery. Remove the resistor from the battery termi-nals. Disconnect and remove the ammeter. After repairsare complete, connect all wires and connectors. Recon-nect the cable to the negative terminals of the battery.
Check For High Output
CAUTIONMake sure tips on meter leads touch only the pointsor terminals to be checked.
Make sure the tips are small enough to touch the ter-minals in the connectors. The tip must touch the ter-minal. It must not touch just the wire insulation. Thetip must not damage the connector, terminal or wire.
1. Use a voltmeter to check for battery voltage at the al-ternator B terminal. Check for battery voltage at the Bterminal of the regulator connector. Do NOT disconnectthe connector.
2. If battery voltage is not at both points, check wiringand connectors between regulator, alternator and bat-tery.
3. If voltage is at both points, connect the voltmeter be-tween the battery terminals.
�������During engine operation, be careful not to touch pul-leys, fans or belts in the engine area. Contact withthese parts can cause an injury.
4. Start the engine and set speed for a maximum readingon voltmeter. Stop the engine.
5. If reading in Step 4 is greater than 14.5 volts, check allwires and connectors to the regulator.
6. If wiring and connectors are good, replace the regula-tor.
ALTERNATOR
NOTE: These alternator checks are done when the al-ternator is removed from the engine. Do not disassem-ble the alternator for the first two check procedures.
Rotor Resistance (See FIGURE 15.)
1. Use an ohmmeter to check for 4 ohms between the al-ternator F and E terminals.
2. If the resistance is zero, the terminals, brushes or sliprings have a short circuit. An indication of infinityshows that the rotor circuit is not complete.
3. A high resistance indications bad brush contact ordirty slip rings.
FIGURE 15. ROTOR AND DIODES CHECKS
9554
CHECKDIODES NTO B AND
N TO E
CHECK ROTORRESISTANCE E TO F
Diodes Circuit (See FIGURE 15.)
1. Use an ohmmeter to check the positive and negativediode sets. Connect the ohmmeter between the alterna-tor N and B terminals. Make opposite connections to thesame two terminals. The meter must indicate continuityfor only one of the two checks.
2. Use the same method to check the negative diodes.Make the meter connections between alternator termi-nals N and E.
3. If the meter indicates continuity for both checks ofStep 1, the positive diode set has damage. If the meterindicates continuity for both checks of Step 2, the nega-tive diode set has damage. Replace the diode assembly.
4. If there is no continuity indication for Step 1 or Step 2,check connections in the alternator.
NOTE: These checks do not indicate a diode in the setthat will not let current flow in either direction.
17
Rotor Coil (See FIGURE 16.)
NOTE: Disassemble the alternator for this check andthe remainder of the alternator checks. See the Repairsection of this SRM.
1. Check and clean the slip rings using a dry cloth. If theslip rings have a rough surface, polish them. Use a spe-cial paper that has a rough surface on one side. The spe-cial paper must be number 500 to 600.
FIGURE 16. ROTOR COIL CHECKS
9552
2. Use an ohmmeter to check for 4 ohms resistance be-tween the slip rings.
3. If the ohmmeter indication is infinity or zero, replacethe rotor.
4. Set the ohmmeter to a high range. Check between aslip ring and a rotor pole. The indication must be infin-ity.
5. If the ohmmeter reading is not infinity, replace the ro-tor.
Stator Coil (See FIGURE 17.)
1. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between allfour stator leads.
2. If there is no continuity between any two leads, re-place the stator.
3. Use an ohmmeter set to a high range. Check for ashort–circuit between stator leads and stator frame. Theindication must be infinity.
4. If any indication is not infinity, replace the stator.
FIGURE 17. STATOR CHECKS
9555
Diode Assembly (See FIGURE 18.)
NOTE: Stator leads must not be connected to diode as-sembly for this check.
1. Connect an ohmmeter lead to the B terminal on the di-ode assembly. Check for continuity at each connectionpoint of the stator leads except the N terminals. Reversethe meter leads and repeat the check.
2. There must be continuity at all three points for onlyone of the two checks. There must also be no continuityat all three points for the opposite check.
3. If any of the three points show continuity for bothchecks, replace the diode assembly. If any of the threepoints show no continuity for both checks, replace thediode assembly.
4. Connect an ohmmeter lead to the E terminal of theconnector on the diode assembly. Check for continuityat each connection point of the stator leads except the Nterminal. Reverse the meter leads and repeat the check.
5. There must be continuity at all three points for onlyone of the two checks. There must also be NO continuityat all three points for the opposite check.
6. If any of the three points show continuity for bothchecks, replace the diode assembly. If any of the threepoints show no continuity for both checks, replace thediode assembly.
18
FIGURE 18. DIODE ASSEMBLY
9557
1. OHMMETER AND CONNECTIONS FORSTEPS 4 AND 5
2. DIODE ASSEMBLY3. CONNECTION POINTS OF STATOR LEADS4. OHMMETER AND CONNECTIONS FOR
STEPS 1 AND 25. “B” TERMINAL6. “E” TERMINAL
1
2 3
4
5
6
N
B
G
F
E
22
B
E 9558
Brushes And Bearings (See FIGURE 19.)
1. Check each brush for a minimum brush length on theshortest side of 5.5 mm (0.2 in).
2. Check the brush springs. Replace the spring if springis broken or has rust or distortion. If brushes havechanged color from heat or they are weak, replace them.
3. Check brush holder for cracks or damage.
4. Check armature bearings for smooth operation. Bear-ings must not be loose or have seal leaks.
FIGURE 19. BRUSHES
9558
1. BRUSH HOLDER2. BRUSH LENGTH3. BRUSH4. BRUSH SPRING (INSIDE)
1
2
3
4
NOTE: ASSEMBLY CAN BE DIFFERENT THAN SHOWN.
REGULATOR (At Hydraulic Tank) (See FIGURE 20.)
1. Disconnect regulator connector. Use an ohmmeter tocheck between terminals of the regulator connector.
2. Replace the regulator if any of the resistance indica-tions are not correct.
FIGURE 20. REGULATOR RESISTANCE
9560
TERMINALS CORRECT INDICATION
F – IG
N – E
NO CONTINUITYNO CONTINUITYCONTINUITYCONTINUITY23 OHMS
L – EB – EB – L
19
Regulator has a damage.Starter keeps running Contacts of solenoid are welded together.
Solenoid coil has a short–circuit.Spring for disengaging the clutch assembly is broken.
Glow plugs do not operate.
Loose or broken wires or connectors in glow plug circuit.
Glow plugs burned out or damaged.
TROUBLESHOOTING
PROBLEM CAUSE
Starter does not run or has low speed.
Loose wiring connections or broken wires.
Key switch has damage.
Solenoid coil or switch contacts have damage.
Weak brush springs in starter.
Brush leads are broken or have a short–circuit.
Commutator in starter is dirty or worn.
Armature winding in starter has damage.
Field windings in starter have damage.
Worn or damaged starter gears.
Bearings in starter are worn or damaged.
Starter operates, but engine crankshaftdoes not rotate.
Wiring connections are broken, loose or havecorrosion.Clutch assembly has damage.
Solenoid has damage and will not keep the clutchassembly engaged.Clutch assembly will not slide easily.
Gear teeth on clutch assembly are damaged.
Battery discharged.
Battery does not stay charged. Battery terminals have corrosion.
Battery has internal damage.
Regulator coil has damage.
Drive belt is loose.
Wiring connections are broken, loose or havecorrosion.Short–circuit between wiring connector(s).
Alternator brushes are worn.
Alternator brushes have weak springs.
Alternator has dirty slip rings.
Stator coil of alternator has a short–circuit.
Gear teeth on ring gear are damaged.
Key switch has damage.
Fuse is open.Resistor is damaged.
20
Weak brush springs. Brushes do not move freely in thebrush holders.
The brushes are worn or damaged.
PROBLEM CAUSE
Battery is charged more than necessary. Wiring connections are broken, loose or havecorrosion.Short–circuit between wiring connector(s).
Regulator has a damage.
Field coil in alternator has damage.
High resistance in the circuit.
Battery uses more water than normal. Battery is being charged more than normal.
Battery is damaged.
Alternator has damage in the stator windings, diodes, rectifier bridge, rotor or voltage regulator.
There is no charge from the alternator. Theindicator light indicates a discharge conditionwhen the rpm is high and the load is high.
Dirt on the slip rings.
There is an electrical ground in the field winding.
Drive belt is not tight or is broken.
Discharge indicator indicates a discharge condi-tion at all engine speeds.
There is a short–circuit in the diodes.
There is an electrical ground at the end of the windings.
The voltage regulator has damage.
21
1/12/93 – LloydStarted revising this section for current format, electronic line art and to update info to addH40–65XM (D177) per Harold’s request and to help Dean finish manual in time for introductionand translation.
1/20/93 – LloydRoute copy returned. Several electrical system differences for the C–240 engine of the C177and D177 units. D177 units have an electrical system similar to the 4JB1 engine. Will checkwith Fred Bridges and make the necessary additions or create a new SRM section for theD177 with the C–240 engine.
THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEMISUZU C–240 DIESEL ENGINE
PART NO. 899792 2200 SRM 134 6/90 (6/81) Litho in U.S.A.