A COTTAGER’S GUIDE TOWATERFRONT FRIENDLY DOCKS

THE DOCK PRIMER

ONTARIO EDITION

Produced byFisheries and Oceans Canada

in association withCottage Life

FISHERIES AND OCEANS CANADAFish Habitat Management Program - Ontario-Great Lakes Area

867 Lakeshore Rd., Burlington, ON L7R 4A6Web Site: www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/

COTTAGE LIFE54 St. Patrick Street, Toronto, ON M5T 1V1

Web Site: www.cottagelife.com

DFO/2008-1430©Her Majesty the Queen in Right of Canada 2008

Cat No. Fs23-506/1-2008E-PDFISBN 978-0-662-48006-8

Cette publication est également disponible en français.

Printed on recycled materials.

THE DOCK PR I MER

PAGE 3

TABLE OF CONTENTSPAG E 4

GETTING STARTED • What Are Your Shoreline Needs?

PAG E 7

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME• The limits to thin

• Between a dock and a hard place• Dock materialism

PAG E 1 2

DOCK TYPES • Removable Docks • Permanent Docks • Specialty Docks

PAG E 2 0BUILDING YOUR DOCK:HOW TO DO IT RIGHT

• Getting approvals, making amends• Tips for easing the process

PAG E 2 2FURTHER READING

PAG E 2 3CONTACTS

It is part of the waterfrontexperience…sitting on your dockwatching the sun set and having aplace to tie up your canoe or motor

boat. Perhaps your shoreline already has a dock but it is badly in need of repair,or perhaps you do not have a dock andwould like to add one to your waterfront.For whatever reason, you may be thinkingof building or replacing a dock along yourshoreline.

Building a residential dock is not adifficult process. In fact, constructing adock can be easy when you know whatfactors to consider and you are preparedwith some basic information. Fortunately,building a safe and stable dock is only alittle more difficult than building a badone, and with the right design, you canhave a dock that meets your waterfrontneeds while minimizing impacts to fishhabitat. This primer points both theconfirmed do-it-yourselfer and the equallyconfirmed purchase-it-yourselfer in thedirection of good docks and good dock-building practices. It also explains how to avoid some potentially damaging andcostly errors. For the full scoop on docks -including plans and full constructiontechniques - check out additionalreferences or consult experts toget you started.

The most important thing to know about dockconstruction is that no dock is a

stand-alone structure. A dock has to workin harmony with that sometimes uneasymarriage of land and water known as yourshoreline, and with the various uses youand your family envision for that shoreline.No two sites are alike so your dock shouldbe designed to fit the characteristics ofyour shoreline. Is your site on a windypoint with a lot of wave action? Or is it tucked away in a quiet bay? Is theshoreline mainly bedrock or do you have a sandy or mucky shoreline? The answersto these kinds of questions will help todetermine the structural requirements foryour dock. The best way to start is bytaking note of your shoreline’s prominentfeatures and then making a detailed mapof it all. Graph paper is the preferredmedia for map-making novices, as a scalecan easily be assigned to the squares, suchas one (1) centimetre square equals five (5)meters, or whatever is needed to fit yourcottage shoreline onto paper.

A detailed map of your shoreline isyour most valuable tool in building a dock.For one thing, you probably do not want to build your neighbours a dock, which

can happen when your carefullyconstructed masterpiece ends up onthe wrong side of a property line (it happens). Also, no matter whereyour waterfront is located, chances

are you will need to get approvalfrom at least one government

department - probably several.PAGE 4

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

GETTING STARTED

Having a map of your site with theproposed project neatly drawn out cutsdown on the red tape (see “Building YourDock: How To Do It Right,” p. 20). Yetthe best reason to map your shoreline isthat it greatly eases the task of choosing thelocation, type, and size of dock best suitedto your needs and budget, whether you arebuilding it yourself or hiring a professional.

Begin the mapping process by locatinglot lines and measuring any structures, suchas the cottage or pumphouse. Mark yourfindings on the map. Do the same for theshape of the shoreline, the direction ofprevailing winds and currents, the bestviews of the lake and shoreline, thetopography and vegetation on the landrising from the water, and the water depthmoving away from the land, noting theshoreline’s makeup (rock, sand, mud) at 5,10, and 15 metre intervals. Also mark thelocation of submerged

navigational hazards such as rocks and sandbars. Note frequently used areas such ashorseshoe pits or swimming areas, alongwith water-intake lines, power lines andtelephone lines.

If you are aware of shoreline nestingsites for waterfowl (remember the ducklingsthat swam by in the spring?) and fishspawning areas or wetlands, mark theseareas on the map but do not include anyas-yet-to-be-constructed docks – yet.Do, however, take pictures of the shorelinearea throughout the various seasons of theyear. While your cottage may only be asummertime retreat, the shoreline is thereall year and spring ice can tear apartanything that you might decide to add –even reinforced concrete bunkers. If you arenew to the area, ask the neighbours aboutthe ice; they will be able to tell you what to expect, which could save you time andmoney.

G e t t i n g S t a r t e d

Before you pick up a hammer, pickup a pencil and make a detailed

site plan of your waterfront.

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WHAT ARE YOUR SHORELINENEEDS?

At this stage, what you have is the“before” plan; the shoreline as it exists prior to any dock additions. Now, look into the future - not at structures, but at uses.Remember that the dock only facilitatesyour needs. Make a wish list of shorelineneeds. Perhaps you need a place to moorthe boat (how big is it?), or perhaps a place to swim, fish, launch a canoe,and sunbathe; maybe just a spot to sit and watch the world drift by, or anycombination of the above and more.Your needs and what you have in the wayof waterfront property should dictate theshape, size, and type of dock, not what thelocal lumberyard happens to have in stock.Obviously, finances also play a role, but as we will see, docks are usually modulardevices, allowing you to add and rearrangedock sections over time. So rather than

compromise your dreams with asubstandard design that the kids love to use as a floating roller coaster and oldermembers of the family refuse to board,complete your dream in stages as yourfinances permit.

A successful shoreline structure alsopays homage to its surroundings. The bodyof water fronting your property existsbecause of a delicate balance in nature that has evolved over many millennia.That narrow band of earth known as theshoreline – an interdependent strip thatincludes the water and both exposed andsubmerged lands – is the most ecologicallysensitive piece of the planet that many ofus are ever likely to encounter. It is also thereason we have chosen to inhabit this smallpiece of planet earth. Unfortunately,anything we do at or near the shorelinewill inevitably disrupt the balance,sometimes destroying not only theshoreline, but also water quality and manyof the countless plants and animals thatdepend on that shore area for existence.

The goal in successful dock buildingis to minimize or even eliminateimpact. The preservation of ashoreline’s charm and abundantlife, and the realization of our

waterfront dreams, need not bemutually exclusive goals. With abit of planning and use of proper

dock-building practices, bothgoals can be achieved.

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G e t t i n g S t a r t e d

The most common dock shape is the rectangle. It is, after all,the simplest and mosteconomical shape to build. But

often there are better choices, both fromthe shoreline’s perspective and that of ourcottage wish list. Fortunately, mostvariations are based on the rectangle, oftenwith one or more rectangular sectionsjoined together to make a more stable,useful, and attractive dock.

In most cases, dockstability increases with size.It is simply a matter ofpercentages - the bigger thedock, the smaller the impactyour visit, or nature’sdisturbances for that matter,will have on it. But it is alsotrue that as dock sizeincreases, so too does the riskof harming nature. Althoughthey have a seemingly benignfootprint, all docks possessthe potential to harm aquaticecosystems, disruptingcurrents enough to erodesubmerged lands andshorelines (including thosebelonging to yourneighbours), blockingsunlight from the aquaticplants below, and disturbingsubmerged lands. These

changes may be small, but they can resultin harm to habitat for plants, invertebrates,fish and other aquatic species. Then thereis the connection of dock to shoreline anddock to cottage, both of which can disruptthat delicate ecological balance. The biggerthe dock, the greater the potential formayhem. “Bigger” also costs more toconstruct and maintain. So big docks arebad, right? Maybe. The problem is, build a dock too small and not only is stability

compromised, it might alsofail to serve your needs. Thatis why that map of yourshoreline is so important – it makes it easier for bothyou and the variousregulatory authorities tochoose and approve the dock best suited to bothyour needs and theshoreline’s needs.

Make a list of theactivities you haveenvisioned for the dock, asthese often dictate minimumsize requirements. Forinstance, while consideredsmall craft, both sailboardsand canoes can becomeserious dock hogs when outof water, demanding plentyof deck-acreage to swingaround and launch. That

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO COME

L-shape

U-shape

T-shape

DOCK SHAPES

said, if your shoreline includes a usablebeach, some things – such as swimmingzones and sailboard storage, may be bestassigned to the beach, reducing demandson dock size. If the shoreline has no usablebeach – where water and land meet at asteep cliff for example – the dock thentakes on the role of a beach.

A smaller dock may be sufficient if youonly need to accommodate a canoe andsimply want a place for swimming ordiving. If big boats are in the picture,there is little point in opting for a smalldock. Should nature make waves, and thedock is not up to the task, it is goodbye to both dock and boat.

THE LIMITS TO THIN

With the exception of finger docks,1 metre (approximately 3.3 feet) is thepractical minimum width for any dock.You need that much room for two peopleto pass without risking one, or both, beingbumped into the drink. Also, as you willsee in our discussion of the various docktypes, most docks haveminimum size requirementsand stability suffers if youtry to go smaller.

If your needs aremodest, the basicrectangle may be yourbest option. However,by adding a secondrectangular sectionperpendicular to thefirst dock (at thedeep end), theresulting T-shapeor L-shape addsto dock stability –like training

wheels on a bicycle – and the shape createdhelps to define designated activity areas.For example, one end of a T-shape couldbe set aside for sunbathing, while splashingand diving are moved to the other end.The shapes can also “capture” protectedareas of water to moor boats or create achildren’s wading area.

Breaking away from the basic rectangleallows us to direct foot and boat traffic andactivity patterns, reducing dock congestion.Therefore, less deck-acreage is required toaccomplish the same goals. This means lesscost, less impact on the environment, andusually, a more attractive shoreline. As abonus, those additional rectangles can beadded or subtracted over time as needs –and finances – change.

What should not be considered forbudgetary reasons are finger docks. Fingerdocks are long and skinny rectangles thatrun out from a much larger main dock orbreakwall. They are designed to providethe maximum number of slips (stalls tomoor a boat) in a given area, not to save onconstruction costs. Because of the reduced

width (sometimes down to halfa metre), finger docks

wiggle aroundjust like fingersand providewobbly access to boats, but not much else.If your activitylist demands

greater versatility,or if you do not

relish thatimpending doom

feeling of a tippydock, stay away from

finger docks.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

BETWEEN A DOCK AND A HARD PLACE

The main problem docksexperience is one shared witheverything else in the universe:entropy, or the idea that a system (in this case the dock) will move towardsincreasing disorder (or in a dock’s case,disrepair). Wood, metal, plastic, concrete,and even nature’s own bedrock – all thebasic ingredients of dock building – areall under continual assault from two verydestructive forces – stress and decay.The effects of stress (the result of visitingboaters bashing into the dock, or naturehurling up huge waves, or spring icepounding at your shoreline) can bereduced by evenly distributing the loads(weight or pressure). For a dock to surviveto its maximum life expectancy, all loadsmust be shared by as much of thestructure as possible. That is constructionrule number one.

Decay is often a keen partner to stresswhen it comes to destruction. Wood rots, plastic degrades, concrete chips andcracks, metal corrodes, rock erodes – it isall part of nature’s regenerative process.

Generally, decay thrives in anenvironment of warmth, a little moisture,and a little oxygen, all readily available at your local shoreline. Too much or notenough of any of these ingredients anddecay moderates its attack. The secret tolongevity therefore, is proper design anduse of quality materials to discourage the onset and growth of decay. That isconstruction rule number two.

DOCK MATERIALISM

Wood Wood is the most common materialused in residential dock construction. It isrelatively easy to work with, reasonablypriced, and has some “give,” allowing it to

bend slightly under duress. It is also at itsstrongest under short-term loads (such as when your neighbour accidentally hits the dock with his new ski boat), a decidedadvantage to waterfront structures. As well, structures made of wood areusually easy to rebuild should nature prove its strength once again.

On the other hand, wood is at its worstdown at the waterfront – wet and fat one moment, dry and skinny the next.Therefore, joining pieces of wood in dockbuilding requires different techniques thanthe accepted practices of house carpentry.

The preferred deck woods for dockbuilding are western red cedar, redwood,cypress, and eastern white cedar (in thatorder), all of which offer reasonablelongevity and beauty. For most docks, thatis also the preferred structural list, but fordock cribs and permanent piles, strongerwoods, such as Douglas fir, hemlock, andtamarack (in that order) are a betterchoice. Unfortunately, this group is not asresistant to rot as the first. For permanentpiles, western larch, pine, and even sprucecan be used if fir is not available.

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T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o C o m e

While realwoodshould beused for yourdock’s framing,plastic lumbercan be an excellentchoice for decking. When installedproperly, it can offer a long working life.

PLASTIC

PRESSURE-TREATED

CEDAR

The better decking species, beingnaturally resistant to rot, will outlastspecies such as spruce, but what ifthe bank account will not acceptthat logic and it demands acheaper solution? That iswhen we compromise.One way to do this –already mentioned – is toreduce the deck acreage ortry to extend the life of lessergrades of wood.

Unfortunately, the standardroute to wood preservation – paint and stain – is not the answerfor docks. Any coating you put on adock will fade, blister, and peel. Notonly will this look terrible, but damagedcoatings also trap water, creating an idealspot for wood-destroying fungi to grow.To make matters worse, paint flakes can betoxic to many aquatic organisms, includingfish. So you can either scrape and re-coatthe dock every few years, or use preferredwood species and do as many dock buildersadvise – take the low maintenance optionand let the wood go naturally grey.

Pressure Treating What about pressuretreated wood; that green alternativeseen on countless decks andsuburban retaining walls?Pressure-treated pine or spruce isabout 20-30% less expensive thanthe preferred decking species, such as cedar, but because the grades oflumber that are set aside fortreatment are usuallylow, pressure-treatedwood is typically moresusceptible to warpingand cracking whenexposed to weather thanthe untreated decking

species, and even some of the structural species,such as fir.

Because it can leachchemicals into theenvironment, pressure-treated wood is banned for waterfront use in some

areas and, in all cases,construction should

take place well backfrom the shorelinewith the finisheddock being left tothoroughly dry and

“age” before beinglaunched into the

water. Working withpressure-treated wood is difficult; thesawdust is considered toxic, and each cut end must be sealed with an approvedpreservative, all of which exposes thebuilder (not to mention the flora and fauna living in the water) to some nastychemicals.

Chemical wood preservatives mostcommonly used in pressure-treated lumber

are alkaline copper quaternary(ACQ) and copper azole

(CA). Creosote-treatedwood should not be used

in or near water. Beforeyou buy, ask your

local building supplyoutlet for moreinformation about

environmentally friendlywood products. A reasonable

compromise is to use pressure-treatedwood for the structure of the dock,

keeping the preferred species forthe decking, thereby lesseningthe odds of exposing skin to

potentially harmful chemicals.

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

Plastic Plastic has become acommon building material fordocks. Compared with mostwoods, metals, or concrete,the types of plastic used in dock construction arerelatively low in strength andlack hardness, which rulesthem out for structuralduties. Plastic is however,the primary material for dockfloats, and when supported by an appropriate structure -typically made from wood,metal, or concrete – plasticmaterials can be used fordecking. Plastic is alsowaterproof and decay-resistant,a decided advantage when itcomes to dock construction.

The cost of plasticdecking usually fitssomewhere between cedar and pressure-treated wood,although some variations aremore expensive than even thepreferred species of wood decking.Typically, plastic decking comes in traditional “planks” of solidpolyethylene (PE), extrusionsmade from polyvinylchloride(PVC), and composites ofrecycled PE and woodbyproducts. Unfortunately,all plastic decking has apropensity to sag, which means that decking cannotextend across the spans of traditional dock designs (check with the decking’smanufacturer).

HARDWARE

The importance of goodhardware in building docks

cannot be stressed enough.Dock “hardware” is that

bewildering array of metalbrackets (usually steel) used tobrace corners and joints, connectdock and ramp sections, hold the

legs of pipe docks in place,and basically add strength

to any dock connection underload. Technically, it doesnot fasten planks together;

it leaves that task to the nails, screws,nuts, and bolts. Instead, once secured in

place with nuts and bolts and the like,dock hardware shares and transfersloads, diminishing stress at crucial

junctures. Joints that are nailed orscrewed together without the benefit

of dock hardware will inevitably pull apart.It does not make sense to

waste your time and moneyon second-rate hardware –

whether it is your own creation(sorry), a piece of metal being

used for a duty it was notdesigned for (such as barn-door hinges used to joinsections of dock), or evenmost hardware sold frommass-merchandising outlets.Whether you are buyingindividual pieces oracquiring the hardware

as part of a completed dock or in a kit,look for good-quality hardware designedspecifically for dock building. It is anexpense you will never regret.

As for fasteners, screws and bolts hold a dock together much better than nails.The extra cost is minimal, but the increasein strength is not.

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T h e S h a p e o f T h i n g s t o C o m e

High quality hardware,like galvanized cornerbrackets, heavy-dutyhinges, and corrosionresistant nuts, bolts, andscrews is crucial if youwant a long-lasting dock.

Although nature considers alldocks to be removable, floatingdocks and pipe docks are theonly ones cottagers usually

consider removing, either for repairs or toprotect the dock from the ravages of winterice and spring breakup. Given Canada’sclimate, that means removable docks areextremely popular.

REMOVABLE DOCKS

Floating Docks Floating docks arerelatively easy and economical to build,adaptable to most shorelines and, becausethey are held up by the water, the distancebetween the top of the dock’s deck and thesurface of the water – known as freeboard– remains fairly constant, varying only withdock load and high seas (being minimal on a well-designed and well-built floater).Since a floating dock is not dependent onsubmerged lands to hold it up, the addedbenefit is that there is no maximumwater depth that prevents its use.

From an environmentalperspective, floating dockscause minimal directdisruption to submergedlands; disruption typicallycaused by anchors, spuds,or pilings (the mostpopular ways to moor afloating dock in place).

In fact, if secured to the shore only, theremay be no contact with submerged lands at all. However, floating docks can blocksunlight to aquatic plants – altering fishhabitat – and they may also cause theerosion of shorelines. This means thatfloating docks will not work everywhere.To minimize damage to the shoreline,a floating dock must have sufficientbuoyancy to keep its floats resting onwater, rather than bumping intosubmerged lands (which can harm boththe dock and aquatic habitat). A depth of 1 metre (approximately 3.3 feet) (measuredat the low-water mark) is the normalaccepted minimum however, less depthmay be possible if the water level nevervaries and the area is not subject to harshwave action.

Floating docks often lack stability but it is not impossible to make a

stable floater – hundreds ofgood designs exist; some so

stable a user could mistakethe dock underfoot for a waterfront boardwalk.Unfortunately, the numberof unstable disasters outthere is great due to poorconstruction practices.When it comes to

stability, a floating dockworks best when it is made

long, wide, low, and heavy. Remember to

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

DOCK TYPES

look for a design that will achieve thisstability without causing harm to fishhabitat.

The consensus among dock builders is that 1.8 metres (approximately 6 feet) x 6.1 metres (approximately 20 feet) is theminimum size for a stable floater; thissingle section weighing in at about 450 kilograms (approximately 1000 lbs)minimum. And bigger is even better forstability.

As usual, the drawbacks to bigger areincreased initial cost, increased labour forinstallation (and removal) and of course,

greater impact on the shoreline’secosystem. A pipe dock – which can bemade smaller and still remain stable - maybe a preferable choice in shallow water.

In areas where ice conditions prohibit a four-season solution, the floating dockoffers the advantage that it can be removedfrom the water in the fall and replaced inthe spring (albeit with no small effort insome cases). That said, many floaters areleft in all year where wave action and iceconditions permit.

In addition to size and shape, float type and float location also contribute to

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For maximumstability, a floatingdock should beheavily built andsolidly anchored.

D o c k Ty p e s

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

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Because they have littlecontact with submerged

lands, pipe docks are easy onthe aquatic environment.

stability. A discussion of float types isbeyond the scope of this booklet but as ageneral rule, installing floats towards theperimeter of the dock, rather than set backtowards the dock’s centre line, greatlyenhances stability.

Pipe Docks If you can imagine a 1 metrewide wooden ramp sitting about aquarter of a metre above the water,supported by long skinny legs runningfrom the ramp down to submerged land,you have just mentally built a pipe dock.Building one in reality is only a littlemore difficult, and not a lot moreexpensive (pipe docks are typically theleast costly dock option). As most of thedock sits out of water, contact with theland and shading of aquatic vegetation istypically held to a minimum, making asimple pipe dock the least disruptive tothe environment of all the dock types.

Unlike the floating dock, the pipe dockis stationary, therefore, the distancebetween the dock and thewater varies as the water risesand falls. Should the lake orriver at your shoreline do agentle retreat through theseason, the pipe dock’s deckcan usually be lowered on its legs to accommodatemoderate fluctuations in waterlevels, and even more extremefluctuations can sometimes be handled by relocating thedock further out on theshoreline. (The dock’s lightweight is a real advantagehere). Some pipe dock legscan also be fitted with wheelsto make moving the dock aneven easier task. Be aware thatthe slightest amount of icemovement can fold up a pipedock like an accordion, so plan

on moving the dock at least twice a year(the more favourable option), or on buyinga new one each spring.

Because a pipe dock’s deck and framingremain elevated above the water, there is very little surface area exposed at thewaterline for nature to damage. This makes the pipe dock a good candidate forsituations where plenty of surface activity isexperienced, such as on busy river channelswhere the wakes from passing boats maybe a problem. However, with waves passingunder the dock unobstructed, any boatmoored to the opposite side will beexposed to the full brunt of wave action.

Severe wave action can put some of the lighter aluminum pipe docks at risk.However, lighter construction also meansless labour to install and remove the dock,and less initial cost to purchase. And in the right situation – a protected bay forinstance – a lightweight pipe dock iscertainly up to the task of mooring smallerboats. For larger vessels and harsher wave

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D o c k Ty p e s

Where ice and currents permit, rock-filled cribs canmake a solid dock foundation.

action, boat lifts or marine railways are a better choice. Because a pipe dock ispropped up on legs, it can be built smallerthan a floating dock yet still remain stable.The basic rule for pipe docks is that thewidth of the dock should be at least 1metre (approximately 3.3 feet) and neverless than the depth of the water. Becausestability suffers as legs get longer, about 2 metres (6-7 feet) is considered themaximum water depth for pipe dockinstallations. Choose one of the other dock types – such as a floating dock – for deeper water.

PERMANENT DOCKS

Residential permanent docks (as opposed to commercial wharves) can be divided into three categories: crib docks,concrete piers, and permanent pile docks.The term “permanent dock” is more areflection of objective than reality, becausepermanence is not a concept recognized by nature. Shifting ice can topple cribs,lift piles right out of submerged land,and push concrete piers up onto shore.However, blessed with sound constructiontechniques and the appropriate conditions,a permanent dock can serve faithfully,perhaps even for several generations.

Because freeboard will vary withfluctuations in water level, permanent

docks are often used in conjunction withfloating docks, the floaters attached to themore permanent structure in a manner thatpermits the floater to move up and downin concert with changing water levels.

Crib Docks A “crib” is a container.In the context of waterfront construction,a crib holds a few tons of rock and stone.Cribs should not be confused withgabions. Gabions are inexpensive wire or plastic mesh baskets designed to holdstones, rock, or concrete; the baskets wiredtogether to serve as unattractive retainingwalls. At first glance, they may seem like a good idea for dock building, but time hasproven gabions to be better at tearing skinthan retaining rock under siege by strongcurrents, waves, and ice, all of which willdistort the basket’s shape, causing thegabion to sag and flatten.

A proper crib is built from new, square-cut timber, not wire or driftwood or roundlogs tacked together with small nails and hope. (Occasionally, steel or concretecastings are used in lieu of wood).The timbers are assembled in opposingpairs, one pair laid out on top of the next,creating a slatted, box-like affair with anintegral floor. Threaded rods run the fullheight in each corner to secure the timbersin place. The box is then filled with rock.

Maximum water depth for a crib isabout 2.5 metres (approximately 8 feet).For optimum stability, a crib’s total heightshould at least equal its total width.Obviously, this can make for a very largecontainer, which in turn needs a ton or more of rock to fill it, and all of thisrock must be taken from onshore sources,not from close-at-hand submerged lands (which would disrupt fish habitat).For this reason, and from an environmentalstandpoint, cribs should be placed abovethe ordinary high water mark, using thestrength of the crib as an anchor or

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T H E D O C K P R I M E R

Concrete piers are expensive andenvironmentally destructive.

attachment point for otherstructures such as floatingdocks, cantilever docks or pipedocks. (On a lakeshore, theordinary high water mark isthe highest point to whichwater customarily rises, andwhere the vegetation changesfrom mostly aquatic species to terrestrial). If however,cribs must be placed in thewater, leave at least 2 metres (6-7 feet) between them, andlocate them at least 2 metresfrom the ordinary high watermark. This will allow near-shore water to circulate aroundthe structures.

From an environmentalperspective, floating and pipedocks are preferred to cribdocks, since crib docks cancover over sensitive spawning habitat andresult in the removal of rocks and logs that provide shelter.

Concrete Piers The concrete pier is basically a big block of cement andaggregate, bound together, often with an

integral boat ramp. Most often, they arefound in commercial or municipal settings.As with crib-based docks, practical waterdepths are limited to about 2.5 metres(approximately 8 feet), and the piers can be merged into shorelines to provide ashoreline interface for other types of docks.

However, concrete piers areexpensive to construct, and no dock does a better job ofdisrupting the environment.Erosion of submerged lands at the base of the pier can often be aproblem too, and unlike the slattedsides of the crib, the concrete pierprovides no substitute home forrefugee aquatic life. Because theytake over the areas where fish feed,rest, and hide from predators, youshould only consider designing aconcrete pier when no otheralternative is feasible.

In most cases, there are bettersolutions for residential docks.

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D o c k Ty p e s

Sunk deep in the ground,piles made of wood, steel,or plastic make a greatbase for a stable dock.

Cantilever docksdo not disturb the water orsubmerged lands.

Permanent Pile Docks The permanentpile dock is a heavyweight, long-termversion of the pipe dock – still a ramp on long legs, but definitely not portable.Instead of resting on the surface ofsubmerged lands (as the legs of pipe docksdo), long poles of wood or tubes of steel orplastic – all referred to as piles – are sunkinto the earth, either by force or by beingset in pre-drilled holes. Either way, becauseof the heavy-duty equipment required,a pile dock is not the stuff of homeworkshop projects.

Piles should always be braced toprevent sway, and although there areno theoretical limits to depth, if theexposed portion of the pile extends 7.5 metres (approximately 25 feet) or more above supportive soil,construction costs will skyrocket.

The permanent pile dock sharesmany of the environmental advantagesof the pipe dock – minimal contactwith submerged lands, free flow ofwater underneath, and the ability tobuild a relatively narrow dock that is still quite stable.

SPECIALTY DOCKS

Specialty docks include cantileverdocks, suspension docks, and lift docks.

These docks can be dramatic to beholdand expensive to purchase. Some designand construction similarities exist betweenspecialty docks and the docks discussedabove, but specialty docks are morecomplex, typically making theirconstruction and installation beyond the skills of even many professional dockbuilders. These are not docks that lendthemselves well to the average tinkerer.

Cantilever and Suspension Docks The cantilever dock works in the samemanner as an overhanging apartmentbuilding balcony: the dock’s framestretches from shore, over the fulcrumpoint, and then out over the water.The maximum length of the dock, and theproportion of the length that is land-based,is determined by how well the land-basedend – the end that supports the load – is tagged to the shore. Customarily,a cantilevered dock requires 0.5 metres(approximately 2 feet) of onshore dock forevery 0.25 metres (approximately 1 foot)hanging beyond the fulcrum, althoughcantilever docks can be incorporated intowood bulkheads (walls built parallel to,and usually at, the shoreline) using aleverage ratio as little as 0.25 metres(approximately 1 foot) on shore for every0.25 metres of overhang, and even lesswhen the land-based end is embedded into a concrete bulkhead or solid bedrock.

The suspension dock, on the otherhand, has more in common with a massivesuspension bridge than an apartmentbalcony. Picture half a Golden Gate Bridgebut instead of connecting two bits of landtogether, it connects one bit of land towater and your boat. Think of it as the“Golden Gate Dock”.

Unlike the cantilever dock, a suspensiondock’s deck does not rely on large chunksof shoreline for support. Instead, arectangular tower holds up a pair of cables

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A tower and thick cables keep asuspension dock up in the air.

anchored well back on shore to keep thedeck suspended over the water (just likethe entrance to the aforementionedbridge). Both cantilever and suspensiondocks sit completely out of the water,so neither dock demands a minimumdepth of water for installation. Sincefreeboard will vary with water levelfluctuations, cantilever and suspensiondocks are not the answer for locations thatexperience extreme water level fluctuations.

Both dock types have practical limits tothe length of overhang: About 2.5 metres(approximately 8 feet) for cantilever docks(which normally equates to a minimum of 5 metres (approximately 16 feet) ofonshore decking), and about 15 metres(approximately 50 feet) for the suspensiondock. Greater distances are not consideredcost effective.

A short cantilevered overhang of about0.25 - 0.5 metres (approximately 1-2 feet)can work very well along bulkheads, cribs,and the like. When a large, shore-baseddeck is desirable (such as over a boulder-strewn shoreline), the cantilever dock againbecomes a reasonable option.

Cantilever and suspension docks causethe least disruption to the water orsubmerged lands – it is difficult to disruptwhat you do not touch. However, as withfloating docks, the resulting shading of the aquatic environment could alter aquaticlife. Also, both dock types will disturb theshoreline, particularly the cantilever dock,which in turn has the potential to disruptboth aquatic and land-based life.

Lift Docks Lift docks come in three styles– lift pipe docks, lift floating docks, and liftsuspension docks – each based on the styleof dock being lifted. The freeboard of eachis the same as for non-lifting versions.

In concept, the lift dock appears tofunction much like the classic drawbridge.Yet while the drawbridge was historicallyraised to protect the castle from unwantedweekend guests, the lift dock gets raisedfor its own protection, hoisting it up out of reach of winter ice.

Size restrictions and environmentalimpact for the three versions of lift docksare the same as for their non-liftingcounterparts.

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With its decking removed, a lift pipe dock can simply bewinched up in the air to escapedamage from winter ice.

D o c k Ty p e s

The approval process begins with you. With the map of yourshoreline and your wish list of shoreline needs spread out

on the kitchen table, use what you havelearned about dock shapes and types to

look for solutions. How will a dockwork here? Perhaps it would be

better at the opposite end of theshoreline? Based on the terrain

- both submerged andabove-water - what type

of dock is best forboth you and the

environment?

What shape of dock will bestaccommodate your wish list of activities?Make copies of your original site map andlet members of the family explore differentsolutions. When consensus is reached,your next task is to find out if approvals are required.

GETTING APPROVALS, MAKING AMENDS

Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO)has streamlined its review and approvalprocess by identifying certain dock-building activities that have a low risk to fish habitat. The first step is to check

whether your project meets the criteria of an Operational Statement - DFO’s

guidelines for work around water thatpose a low risk to fish habitat. If your plan for a dock or boathouse meets theconditions laid out in an OperationalStatement, and it incorporates the

measures it advises to protect fishhabitat, then your project does not require review under the

Fisheries Act. To see if your plans are lake-friendly (or to find out how to

make them better), visit the DFO web siteat www.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/.

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

BUILDING YOUR DOCK:HOW TO DO IT RIGHT

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Once you are there, click on “OperationalStatements” (for dock and boathouseconstruction, beach creation, and so on).You may be pleasantly surprised to learnthat your project can pass “go” withoutacquiring DFO’s formal blessing.

If your project does not meet thestandards of an Operational Statement,you will need to submit your plans forreview to ensure that your dock projectdoes not adversely affect fish habitat.In Ontario, your first stop for approvalshould be the local ConservationAuthority, or Parks Canada office, then the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources(MNR), and finally DFO. You may nothave to talk to each of these agenciesseparately. For instance, some ConservationAuthorities or Parks Canada offices mayhandle the entire process on behalf of theother government departments, or theMNR may do it all, but the only surefireway to find out is to ask (see Contactinformation on p. 23).

Here is another stop you should makeon the approvals journey: If your project is in an area where there are aquatic speciesat risk, as defined by the Species at Risk Act(SARA), get in touch with your localConservation Authority, DFO or ParksCanada office to make sure that what youhave in mind is in compliance with SARA.A visit to www.sararegistry.gc.ca will help.Also, some municipalities now requirebuilding permits for dock construction,so you will need to check there as well.

Keep in mind that gaining approvalfrom one government department does not guarantee that you will be able toobtain approval from another governmentdepartment. It is important that youobtain all approvals before starting thework.

The size, shape, and location of yourdock - or perhaps even whether you canhave one at all - will all come under review

so do not be surprised if you are asked to make some changes. However, makingadjustments in the early stages - when yourdock is still in erasable pencil on paper - is much easier and more economical thanaltering the finished work.

Do your planning the summer beforeyou want to begin the work, and file your applications (where required) in the fall. That way, you will have all of the paperwork taken care of in time for the spring thaw.

What happens if you ignore all of this good advice? Not taking the properprecautions to ensure that your projectmeets provincial and federal requirementsmay result in a violation under the Fisheries Act and related legislation.First time offenders under the Fisheries Actcan receive a maximum fine of $300,000and possible jail time for subsequentconviction. As well, the courts often orderrestoration of the property to its originalstate.

TIPS FOR EASING THE PROCESS

Begin the mapping and design processin the summer when you can accuratelyassess current and proposed waterfrontactivities. Present your plan to governmentdepartments in the winter or late fall.This will allow adequate time for those in charge of approvals to look at yourproposal and suggest alternatives shouldthere be a problem. By getting all of thepaperwork taken care of when the lake isfrozen, you could be building your dock in the spring and sipping lemonade on itsdeck by summer. And no lemonade tastessweeter than that sipped from a deck chairon your own dock, as you take in the quietbeauty of your waterfront.

G e t t i n g A p p r o v a l s

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FURTHER READING

The Shore Primer Fisheries and Oceans Canada and Cottage LifeThe Shore Primer is an essential guide to healthy waterfronts,showing cottagers and other landowners how to protect andrestore their shorelines. A good compliment to The Dock Primer.

The Drain Primer Cliff EvanitskiFisheries and Oceans Canada, Ontario Federation ofAgriculture and Drain Superintendents Association of OntarioThe Drain Primer is a helpful guide to maintaining andconserving agricultural drains and fish habitat.

The Baitfish Primer Becky Cudmore and Nicholas E. MandrakFisheries and Oceans Canada and Bait Association of OntarioThe Baitfish Primer is an informative guide for identifying and protecting Ontario’s baitfishes.

The Fish Habitat Primer Fisheries and Oceans CanadaThe Fish Habitat Primer is an essential guide to recognizingand respecting the environment on which fish depend to keeptheir - and our - waterways vibrant with life.

“Working Around Water?” – a series of fact sheets.

Operational Statements – a series of documentsdeveloped to streamline DFO’s regulatory review of low risk activities.

These publications, and more, are available electronically on the Fisheries and Oceans Canada (DFO) Web site atwww.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/oceans-habitat/. For a copy of any of these DFO publications, please contact your local DFO office (see “Contacts,” p. 23).

Aussi disponsible en français.

T H E D O C K P R I M E R

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SOUTHERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Burlington304-3027 Harvester RoadP.O. Box 85060Burlington, ON L7R 4K3Tel: 905-639-0188Fax: 905-639-3549E-mail: referralsburlington@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

London73 Meg DriveLondon, ON N6E 2V2Tel: 519-668-2722Fax: 519-668-1772E-mail: referralslondon@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

EASTERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Peterborough501 Towerhill Road, Unit 102Peterborough, ON K9H 7S3Tel: 705-750-0269Fax: 705-750-4016E-mail: referralspeterborough@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

Prescott401 King Street WestPrescott, ON K0E 1T0Tel: 613-925-2865Fax: 613-925-2245E-mail: referralsprescott@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

NORTHERN ONTARIO DISTRICT

Parry Sound28 Waubeek StreetParry Sound, ON P2A 1B9Tel: 705-746-2196 Fax: 705-746-4820E-mail: referralsparrysound@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

Sudbury and Sault Ste. Marie1500 Paris Street, Unit 11Sudbury, ON P3E 3B8Tel: 705-522-2816Fax: 705-522-6421E-mail: referralssudbury@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

Thunder Bay and Kenora425-100 Main StreetThunder Bay, ON P7B 6R9Tel: 807-346-8118Fax: 807-346-8545E-mail: referralsthunderbay@dfo-mpo.gc.ca

CONTACTSFisheries and Oceans Canada - Ontario-Great Lakes Area Offices

COTTAGE LIFE54 St. Patrick StreetToronto, ON M5T 1V1Tel: 416-599-2000 Fax: 416-599-0500E-mail: clmag@cottagelife.comWeb Site: www.cottagelife.com

MINISTRY OF NATURAL RESOURCESNatural Resources Information CentreP.O. Box 7000300 Water StreetPeterborough, ON K9J 8M5Tel: 1-800-667-1940 Fax: 705-755-1677E-mail: mnr.nric@ontario.caWeb Site: www.mnr.gov.on.ca

CONSERVATION ONTARIO120 Bayview Parkway, Box 11Newmarket, ON L3Y 4W3Tel: 905-895-0716 Fax: 905-895-0751E-mail: info@conservationontario.caWeb Site: www.conservationontario.ca

PARKS CANADA25 Eddy StreetGatineau, QC K1A 0M5Tel: 1-888-773-8888E-mail: information@pc.gc.caWeb Site: www.parkscanada.gc.ca

FEDERATION OF ONTARIO COTTAGERS’ ASSOCIATIONS (FOCA)201 - 159 King StreetPeterborough, ON K9J 2R8Phone: 705-749-FOCA (3622)Fax: 705-749-6522E-mail: info@foca.on.caWeb Site: www.foca.on.ca

THE LIVING BY WATER PROJECTCentre for Sustainable Watersheds14 Water Street, Box 280Portland, ON K0G 1V0Tel: 613-272-5136E-mail: lbw@watersheds.caWeb Site: www.watersheds.ca

See inside back cover for complete listing of DFO Offices.

March 2008