the discerning guide o fine t timepieces€¦ · due to the fact that watches as a whole are so...

aficionado

Luxury sports watchesperfect for the Miami lifestyle

own the nightwatches to help you shine

the devil isin the details

exposedwatchMaking

The discerning guide To fine Timepieces

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4 aFicionaDo 2011 | the MiaMi heraLD

5the MiaMi heraLD | aFicionaDo 2011

the Devil is in the Detailswatchmaking is all about attention to detail.

Luxury sports watches perfect for the Miami Lifestylethe active Miami lifestyle is tough on watches, that’s why you need a sports watch that can do it all.

what Makes them tickcelebrities and athletes, in their own words, talk about their watches and their passions.

own the nightnightlife is such an important part of the Miami lifestyle and going out offers you another opportunity for you and your watch to shine.

the Joy of Buying Fine watcheswhere to go and what to know before you buy.

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32 keith w. strandberg roberto hernández-alende rita Jaramillo

editor-in-chief: special publications Manager:

art Director:

aJ protashnational advertising Manager

[email protected]

yvonne cloudspecial sections coordinator 305-376-2861 [email protected]

aficionado

aDv e rt i s i n g :

I love watches.I love quartz watches, entry-level mechanicals, complicated ones, one-of-a-kind million-

dollar timepieces and everything in between. I can appreciate an inexpensive Mickey Mouse watch, while at the same time marvel at an intricate tourbillon minute repeater costing hundreds of thousands of dollars.

I love the designs, the movements, the artisanal techniques, hundreds of years old, that are still in use today.

I love that the mechanical movement is like the engine of my Harley, but this engine runs 24/7/365, as long as you keep it wound and in good condition. Not sure my Harley would be able to stand up that…

As a person who has carved out a life writing about watches, what I love the most are the stories behind the timepieces. The genesis tales of great designs, the way watches are created for specific purposes (pilot’s watches, deep divers, dual timers and more), the attention to precision, the respect for tradition and more.

The best companies in watchmaking are the ones who never stop – getting better, innovating, pushing watchmaking forward.

I want to share my love of watches with you, The Miami Herald reader. For men, especially, a watch is one of the only ways we can showcase our sense of style and personality.

Many people don’t “get” watches, but give me five minutes with anyone and I’ll turn that around.

“Aficionado” is my attempt, on a grand scale, to get my five minutes with you.After you’ve read through this special magazine, go see your friendly local watch retailer

and buy the watch you love.And tell them The Miami Herald’s “Aficionado” sent you.

Keith W. StrandbergEditor-in-Chief

editor’s letter

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9the MiaMi heraLD | aFicionaDo 20118 aFicionaDo 2011 | the MiaMi heraLD

Compared to products like cars, furniture and appliances, watches are tiny things. When you think about it, the fact that mechanical watches actually work is an incredible feat of micro-mechanics.

When it comes to a mechanical watch, even the simplest have more than a hundred parts that all have to work together flawlessly to be precise, and the most complicated can have almost 1,000 parts.

Attention to detAilDue to the fact that watches as a whole are so small, the hundreds of

intricate parts are by necessity tiny, so tiny, in fact, that many of the screws that are used to hold the parts together have to be viewed under a microscope.

Each of the parts that go into a watch has to have an incredibly tight tolerance, because if one of those parts is not exactly the right size, the watch simply won’t work.

Some high-end companies polish and finish each and every part of the watches by hand, meticulously making sure that every defect and piece of dust or debris is gone, even if the parts, hidden inside the movement, will never be seen by the owner. This kind of attention to detail may seem crazy, but it speaks to the Swiss watchmakers’ commitment to excellence. The logic is that if this kind of attention to detail is paid to the smallest parts, even parts that have no impact on the precision of a watch, this level of quality will extend to every part of the watch, raising the overall quality of the timepiece.

the devil

detailsis in the

Watchmaking is all about attention to detail

>

Zenithchristophe colomb

Montblanc nicolas rieussecchronograph anniversary edition



WhAt goes into A WAtchFirst, the design of the watch has to be created.

If it’s a new design, it can take from several months to more than a year to finalize the design, going through rounds of sketches, prototypes and reviews. The best watch designs have a coherent design ethos, with great attention to the small details so the design is pleasing to the eye — beautiful while still being functional, comfortable and wearable.

If it’s an update to an existing design, the time can be shortened a bit, though sometimes it’s more difficult to update an icon, making it fresh while still keeping the same design sense.

Once the watch has been designed, it has to go through a battery of testing to make sure it will work over the long haul. These tests include shock, temperature, humidity, water resistance, abrasion, stress, impact and more. One company, Bremont from the U.K., goes as far as to strap their watches to Martin-Baker jet ejector seats, then catapults them through the air!

production is next. The traditional Swiss method of production is for a company to use specialty suppliers to produce the parts, which the brand then assembles in its facility.

In order to control delivery and quality, some watch companies make most of the parts for their watches by themselves or in companies they own. Patek Philippe, Rolex, Franck Muller, Vacheron Constantin and a handful of others have brought most processes in-house so they control their own destiny.

Once all the pieces and parts are in-house, they have to be quality controlled and then finished. Raw parts, especially the ones that are visible (either through apertures on the dial or the sapphire crystal exhibition back), have to be either high polished or finished with striping, burnishing, engraving or many other special techniques.

Once all the parts are ready, the watch is presented in a kit to the watchmaker to be assembled. Due to the small size of the parts and the intricacy of the movements, in most cases this has to be done by hand. Some movements are so complicated that they can take up to a full year of assembly.

When the movement assembly is done, the movement is regulated to make sure it is keeping accurate time. Then, the watch is cased, the bracelet or strap is put on and the watch goes through one more round of quality control, to make sure there are no scratches, no dust — in short, the watch has to be perfect before it leaves the facility.

skill mAttersWatches today are by and large excellent products.

As you can imagine, though, skill and expertise really enters into the production of watches. If you don’t have the best people, the best processes, the best controls, quality can suffer. There is a reason why certain watch companies, like Rolex and Patek Philippe, have incredible reputations for quality. They have proven themselves over the years and don’t take their positions for granted. >

watch design is a real challenge, as there isn't a whole lot of room and the timepiece has to work as a keeper of time, as well.

Breitling chronomat gMt

a master watchmaker, like antoine preziuso (pictured here), painstakingly assembles the hundreds of components and breathes life into the amazing mechanical watch.



complicAtions simplifiedWatch brands are constantly coming out with

new complications, including very useful ones that can make your life easier.

A complication is anything that is above and beyond simply telling time. A basic watch is a three-hand timepiece — hour, minute and seconds. Anything more, even a day or date display, is considered a complication. Complications are elements integrated into or modules placed on top of the watch’s base movement. Here are some of the most popular complications available today:

dual time/gmt: This timepiece displays two times simultaneously, either through a GMT hand that points to the second time zone or a separate subdial for the second time zone. There are some three-time-zone watches and some brands offer world-time watches, which provide a way to read the time in 24 time zones around the world. Some companies vary these cities based on stock markets around the world, shopping districts and more.

chronograph: This is a watch that allows for the independent timing of an event. Usually, a chronograph has two pushers on the side of the case to activate, stop and return the chronograph hands. Most chronographs have subdials that measure the minutes and hours. There are chronographs that have only one pusher, which controls all the chronograph functions, and these are called monopusher chronographs. A chronometer, not to be confused with a chronograph, is a watch certified to an official precision standard.

split second chronograph: This chronograph has two chronograph hands instead of one, which split apart, allowing you to time different things. The French term for this complication is rattrapante, which means “recovering” or “catching again.”

Annual calendar: This watch will run for a full year (starting on March 1) without having to be reset. It will have to be reset at the end of February, the only month that varies in the number of days from year to year.

power reserve/réserve de marche: This

complication is an indicator somewhere on the watch (usually on the dial) that shows the state of wind for the watch. Like a fuel gauge in your car, it shows how much power is left in your mechanical timepiece.

perpetual calendar: The ultimate calendar because it knows how long each year is, no matter if it is a leap year. Keep a quality perpetual calendar running and you won’t have to reset it until the year 2100.

moon phase: These watches have a display that shows the phase of the moon (full, half, crescent, etc.).

retrograde display: This kind of display counts up (whether it is seconds,

minutes, the date, etc.) then snaps back to zero.

Jumping hour: Instead of regular hands, a single digit shows the hour and it jumps directly to the next hour,

from three to four, for example.minute repeater: This is a

watch that chimes out the time (hours, quarter-hours and minutes)

when a lever is activated. The Minute Repeater is considered one

of the most complicated watches to manufacture.

tourbillon: A device that is designed to counteract the effect of

gravity on the movement’s balance, thereby increasing the movement’s accuracy. A

tourbillon features a cage that holds the balance and the escapement, and the cage

turns independently of the watch, usually at a constant rate of once per minute. The tourbillon, which means “whirlwind” in French, is one of the watchmaking art’s most involved and elegant complications.

grande complication: This rare watch combines at least three high complications — usually one from each of the following groups: chronograph, calendar/moon phase and striking.

Producing a watch with any complication, or combination of complications, takes a great deal of expertise, amazing attention to detail and know-how. In general, when a complication is added to a movement, it means that more can potentially go wrong, so it is important to purchase a complicated watch from a quality company.

every timepiece has four requirements:

1. a power source

2. a way of transmitting the power

3. a way of regulating that power

4. a way of indicating the power so you can tell

the time.

For mechanical watches, the power source

is the mainspring. the mainspring’s power is

transmitted through a series of gears called the

“gear train.” the balance wheel, which is the part

of the watch that turns back and forth at a

changeable rate, is where the power is regulated.

the indication is done by the hands: hours,

minutes, seconds.

all these things combine to make the watch what

it is and determine how well, or how poorly, it

keeps time. in its simplest terms, a watch is very

similar to a wind-up car — you turn the key to

give it power, it has gears and the number of

teeth in the gears determines how fast it will

go across the floor. in a watch, you wind up a

mainspring, supplying power to the gears. instead

of going across the floor, a watch applies that

power in a different way, to turn the hands of

the watch.

THE MORE COMPLICATED a watch is, the more expensive it will be. Thank goodness wearing a complicated watch is really quite simple — slip it over your hand and onto your wrist, secure it and enjoy!

the patek philippe sky Moon

tourbillon (ref. 5002) is regarded as

one of the world’s most complicated

production wristwatches. it

combines a tourbillon with a

perpetual calendar with a

retrograde date display, a minute

repeater, the display of sidereal

time, and a depiction of the

nocturnal sky with the motion of the

stars, the orbit of the moon and

the moon phases. comprised of 694

parts, annual production by patek

philippe is two pieces.

how complicated can it get?

how a basic movement works

>

kenneth cole kc4809

the Franck Muller giga tourbillon

patek philippe sky Moon tourbillon

paneraiLo scienziato

rolex cosmograph Daytona chronograph

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One heart Three legends

With its Manufacture Caliber 01, Breitling has created the most reliable, accurateand top-performance of all selfwinding chronograph movements – entirely produced in its own workshops and chronometer-certified by the COSC. A perfectlylogical accomplishment for a brand that has established itself as the absolutebenchmark in the field of mechanical chronographs.

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1H3L blank (20x12)B25_Layout 1 10/28/11 6:49 PM Page 1



Also, the more complicated a watch is, the more expensive it will be. Thank goodness wearing a complicated watch is really quite simple — slip it over your hand and onto your wrist, secure it and enjoy!

WAtches As An Art formArtwork on watches?Sounds strange, since the dial of a watch, the only

available place for concentrated decoration, is very small, even on the biggest of watches. Today, many brands are concentrating on putting works of art on watch dials as a point of differentiation. These art forms include enamel, miniature painting, engraving, stone setting and more.

enamelEnamel work is almost as old as history itself —

the Greeks have been credited with using enamel on gold jewelry back in the fifth century B.C., and Caesar claimed to find Celtic cultures using enamel in Britain in the first century B.C.

Enamel painting was brought to Geneva, associated with jewelry and watchmaking from the very beginning, during the 17th century. In 1760, Geneva artists improved the technique and invented L’Email sous fondant (also known as L’Email de Genève or the Geneva Technique), which consists of several layers of fine uncolored and transparent enamel applied directly on miniature painting, then the layers are polished after each firing. This particular finishing served to protect the painting.

Watch companies used enamel quite often on pocket watches and when wristwatches were introduced, after 1910 or so, enamel was very popular. Then, fashions changed and enamel work faded from the watch industry.

Now, thanks to companies like Patek Philippe, Piaget, Jaquet Droz, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and others, enamel is back, stronger, and more beautiful than ever.

One of the most famous enamel techniques, currently in use by several companies today, is High Fire enameling (grand feu in French), where the watch dial is baked at high temperatures after every color is applied. One of the challenges facing the enamel artist is that the true colors of the enamel don’t materialize until after the firing is done. The color red best illustrates this problem — all the different shades of the oxides that produce red enamel have a whitish color before going into the furnace; it only takes the correct hue during firing. The enameller must therefore paint blindfolded as it were, as only vast experience will guide the true master of the art in achieving the correct results.

Cloisonné is another artistic technique, perfected by the Chinese and in use today on watch dials from Patek Philippe and others, where a pattern is created using gold wire, creating cells called cloisons, then these cells are filled with enamel, which is then fired to bond it to the metal and to create the beautiful colors.

The difficulty, expense and commitment to be able to do enamel watches ensure that the use of enamel will be confined to only the best companies. There are only a handful of skilled artisans that can do the different enamel techniques. Due to the resurgence of interest in enamel, watch companies are working on increasing the number of artisans trained in enameling, but it’s a slow process.

engravingAnother traditional art form in watchmaking is

engraving. Finishes on the surfaces of a watch are usually done by machine (guilloche, perlage, Geneva striping and more) but engraving is done by hand in most cases. It could be as simple as engraving the caseback of a watch with the customer’s initials to doing an intricate drawing. Peter Speak-Marine hires one of the world’s best engravers to fashion dragons and other mythical creatures out of Damascus steel, Koduku from Germany makes one-off engravings and skeletonized watches, and high-end tourbillon manufacturer Bovet specializes in incredible engraving work.

stone settingDiamond and precious stone-set watches

are more popular than ever. Sparkling stones on a watch can transform an ordinary timepiece into something spectacular and take an already spectacular watch and make it unforgettable.

Many “entry level” diamond watches are just normal watches with diamonds on them. At the highest level, however, the diamonds are an integral part of the overall design of the watch.

There are basically two methods for setting — traditional (manual) and by machine. Lower-end watches often use machine-setting, as it’s faster and cheaper. Most higher-end

watches use traditional setting, as it results in better quality. Sometimes even the high-end brands use machines to prepare the case for setting, to make sure

the initial holes are as precise as they can be, but then the stones are set and finished by hand.

The hallmark of artistic and high-level setting is how

alive the stones are — which is dictated by how much light can enter the stones.

In gem-set watches, there is value in both the

setting and the stones. Not only are the stones the best these

high-end watch companies can buy, the setting is artistic and beautiful and can take

a great deal of time, depending on the setting and the number of diamonds. In some cases, the

setting alone can take more than a month.

Precious stones — diamonds, sapphires, rubies and more — on a timepiece can have a dazzling effect when set correctly. It’s all in the details — design, technique, choice of stones and the actual art of setting all come together to make these watches magical.

Thank goodness watch companies are rediscovering the traditional arts. There aren’t many artisans who work in the watch industry, and the work is so difficult and time-consuming, so the number of pieces are very limited. With luck, more people will be trained to perform this delicate and artistic job, so enamel dials and enamel painting on dials can continue to adorn the finest timepieces.

So, next time you are in a watch store looking at all the timepieces on display, keep in mind everything that goes into the making of a watch, from the simplest to the most complicated.

And enjoy!

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Luxurysports

watchesperfect for the Miami lifestyle

Use them and abuse them, today’s luxury sports watches can take it.

The active Miami lifestyle is tough on watches.High heat.Humidity.Perspiration.Sand.Salt water.Swimming pools.Hot tubs… and more.That’s why you need a sports watch that can do it all. Used to be, if you

had a fine watch, you needed to really take care of it, expensive watches had to be pampered and you weren’t supposed to bump them around. Then, things changed — the watch manufactures started to build ruggedness and durability in, especially in sports watches.

Now, you have Rafael Nadal playing, and winning, with a Richard Mille tourbillon on his wrist, which was previously unthinkable.

Today’s sports watches are designed to withstand the slings and arrows of outrageous lifestyles, and keep on ticking.

officine paneraichrono Daylight

rolexexplorer ii



general sports watches

General sports watches are made to be able to go from gym to office to dinner and a movie, all while looking great and performing flawlessly. That’s no simple feat, but luckily sports watch manufacturers torture their watches to make sure they can stand up to everything you can throw at them.

chronographs

One complication very popular in sports watches is the chronograph, or timer. Used to time your run, how long it takes your kids to get dressed or your egg in the morning, chronographs are useful tools and make for a very attractive, and interactive, dial.

One of the most interesting chronographs on the market is the flyback chronograph, which allows the timing hand to be reset in the middle of its operation, very handy when someone doesn’t start when you tell them to.

pilot’s watches

Pilot’s watches are popular because they are rugged, tested for shocks, luminosity, the elements and temperature fluctuations, and they are extremely easy to read, as they have to be legible at a glance in the busy cockpit.

There is quite a debate amongst pilots about whether quartz or mechanical is the way to go. The pros for quartz pilot’s watches are that they can be used as more of a tool, as they are feature-packed (Breitling’s Emergency can even send out a homing beacon if you crash), while other pilots don’t like to put their trust in a watch powered by a battery, so they prefer to have a mechanical pilot’s watch as a backup to their in-cockpit instruments.

Diving and water sports watches

Most sports watches are water resistant to 100 meters, which is the minimum to make sure that water doesn’t damage your timepieces. Surprisingly, the biggest challenge to watches isn’t going down to 100 meters, which is just about impossible anyway (40 meters is scuba’s absolute recreational diving limit), it’s the first immersion into the water, and the shower, which tests water resistant watches’ gaskets to the max. Higher pressure actually pushes the watch tighter together, seating the seals and keeping the water out.

The minimum required water resistance for a watch to be considered a dive watch is 200 meters. There are watches that are water resistant to 1,000 meters and more (the current world record for a timepiece is held by Bell and Ross’ Hydromax, which is water resistant to 11,100 meters (36,500 feet), which is deeper than the deepest known ocean, and the logic here is that if the watch is super water resistant, it can certainly go into the hot tub, the surf or the pool. Remember, if you own dive watches, you should have the seals checked every three years or so.

Today’s luxury sports watches are put through incredible tests of shocks, pressure, humidity, sand and more to make sure that they can stand up to anything you dish out. With these great watches, you can play tennis, go swimming or scuba diving, go to the gym, spend a full day at the office and then out to the clubs in South Beach with no problem.

Now, let’s see if you can keep up!

harry winston project Z6

the pierre kunz Diver

chanel J12 chromatic

Ball engineer Master ii Diver worldtime

hamilton khaki skymaster utc

the Breitling superocean chrono

Dodane type 21

hanhart twinDicator

Montblanc 3274 sport

chronograph automatic

kenneth cole kc9003



In 1821, at a horse race in Paris, Nicolas Rieussec successfully tested

his revolutionary invention that allowed time to be recorded to an

accuracy of a fifth of a second. The chronograph was born. A tribute to a

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centred on the essence of his invention, the rotating disc technique.

Monopusher chronograph, self-winding manufacture movement, second

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Fashion ForwardMaking a fashion statement with the latest

watches from the best designers, from the entry level to the extremely high end, shows how hip you are, and that you don’t miss a trend. Colors are hot, big watches are still in, interesting shapes can really get noticed and cutting-edge cases, dial treatments and more are increasingly popular. Interchangeable straps are a big trend in fashion watches, allowing you to change the look in seconds. Some companies even offer covers for watch cases, taking customization a step further.

It’s a real treat to see new dial and case designs in fashion watches, while at the same time some of the best Swiss watch brands can really do cool things. The “f” in fashion stands for fun; so, enjoy these new styles, mixing and matching colors, straps and more.

out to shineFor parties and premieres, you can make a

statement with a bejeweled and bedazzled watch, or something more sedate but still shining with diamonds. You can get watches with diamond markers, a ring of diamonds, diamond dials and also completely paved (including the buckle) — it’s completely up to you and your budget.

The quality of the diamonds and the setting is what distinguishes the finest diamond watches from mere “bling.” Make sure the diamonds on your watch are the best quality and examine the settings with a loupe – you should see the diamonds, not the setting.

Breitling galactic 36

Franck Muller vintage

rolex LadyDatejust

panerai Luminor 1950

chrono Monopulsante

hublot king power F1 tourbillon

patek philippe Ladies Minute repeater

chopard happy sport

F.p. Journe octa reserve

hautlence hL2.1

Devon tread 1

harry winston rendez-vous

kenneth cole kc4809

elegant and DressyFor those black tie events, it’s important to have an elegant,

understated timepiece. Luckily, this is an area where many companies have refocused, and there are plenty of great timepieces to choose from, for both men and women.

For these traditional timepieces, the simpler the better from a design standpoint, although the movement is often state-of-the-art. You can have them in steel, gold and even platinum, but they are so subtle, only those in the know will know what you paid for your watch. Everyone else will just know that you have classic, sophisticated style.

own the nightwith a great watchNightlife is such an important part of the Miami lifestyle and going out offers you another opportunity for you and your watch to shine.

pierre kunz insanity

Cutting-edge watches from the avant-garde of horology can really make you stand out from the crowd. These watches use the latest designs, unusual materials and unique approaches to the display of time. They are bold and out there, just begging for someone to come up to you, point at your watch and say, “What the heck is that?”

These new independents are not cheap, but chances are high you will never see anyone wearing the same watch when you go out. With these watches, though, don’t worry if you can’t read the time — getting home early is overrated!

seriously complicated

However you want to rock your evening, the perfect timepieces are out there waiting for you.

Montblanc collection princesse grace de Monaco


Celebrities and athletes, in their own words, talk about their watches and their passions.

dAn mArinonfl hAll of fAme quArterbAckwhen you look at successful people, it’s about having a passion and a love for what you do, and that was instilled in me early on when i watched my father, who was a truck driver and worked extra jobs on weekends. you have to have talent, but talent doesn’t always do it, you have to have the hard work.to me, i like the look and the style of watches, and i like what i feel comfortable wearing. i like having a watch that other people might not have.one of my first watches was a rolex, which i won for rookie of the year. after that, Mark Levinson got me into watches. i don’t really have a favorite. i am wearing a Frank Muller Master Banker right now, but i have panerais, iwcs, audemars piguets and a bunch of different watches. i love them all.

hArrison fordActor And Activisti am not a jewelry person but i like well-designed, simple and functional watches. i am impressed by the craft and skill it takes to make a fine mechanical watch. each time i play a new character, i choose a watch specifically to reflect his personality.it was important for me to create a watch that reflects the mission and values of conservation international, and each detail of the design of the hamilton khaki conservation auto chrono limited edition echoes the theme of nature, longevity and sustainability, reminding us the fragility of time and the importance of immediate action.

lebron JAmesmiAmi heAt bAsketbAll plAyerMy interest in watches goes back to when i was a kid. of course, i couldn’t afford an audemars piguet watch at that time but i’ve always worn watches. even if i wear gym shorts and a basketball t-shirt, i always want to put on a nice looking watch.i wear the royal oak offshore arnold schwarzenegger the Legacy and the royal oak offshore grand prix, but it all depends on how i am feeling that day or on the event. i like simple things with a great distinctive look. i am going to work to develop an audemars piguet watch that is an

expression of my style and ideas.i believe success is defined by constantly

working to get better. it’s about always striving to be a better

person on and off the court. no matter what level you achieve,

success means always working to get to the next level.

sAm mAdisonformer nfl All pro cornerbAckthe thing that i like about watches is the different ways that you can use them to dress up or go casual. it makes me feel a little bit more important when i have a classic watch on. For me, it’s been unbelievable to see how many people i’ve encountered and the great watches they wear.Levinson Jewelers had watch parties at their stores and, hanging out with Dan Marino and other players, i had the opportunity to learn about the different watches. For example, through the Levinsons, i sat down with Franck Muller himself, who talked to me about his watches.the first watch that i ever bought was a diamond encrusted Breitling, but my next watch is another Franck Muller. i really like to be low key and not too flamboyant, but when you put on a Franck Muller, you are making a statement.

dWyAne WAdemiAmi heAt bAsketbAll plAyeri really feel that hard work pays off. i am humble about what i have in my life and i feel i am blessed.the thing i always say is how a watch puts the finishing touch on whatever outfit i am wearing. i like to switch out my watches. if i am sporty, in a suit, in casual clothes, i have different watches for all of that.time is different on the court. when you’re up, it goes so slow, but when you are down it zooms by.i am very pleased with my limited edition hublot watch, having been a part of the design. i chose the colors for the king power myself, because they worked with my personality. i wanted something to wear that was sporty and could also be worn when i dress up, too.

dJ irieofficiAl dJ for the miAmi heAtFor me, being the Miami heat DJ is literally a dream position – seeing the best players out there, working with a great organization like the Miami heat and playing my favorite music — it doesn’t get any better that that.i’m not the kind of guy who wears a bunch of jewelry, but the one thing i always have is a nice watch. My feeling is that a watch helps to define a person, it tells a lot about the person.i am a big Franck Muller fan – these watches are very, very distinctive. i think my next watch will be a panerai.everything with the heat is on a tight schedule at the arena. i am at certain timeouts, i am on at the end of halftime. i always have to have a trusty timepiece on my wrist.

mAriA shArApovAtennis chAmpionwatches keep me on time in whatever i do. My parents always taught me to be on time as it shows respect for other people.there is something quite ambiguous about time during a match. it feels suspended somehow in between points, and then, the second the ball is served, it feels completely accelerated until the next point. this mix of suspension and super acceleration is a unique feeling when any control of time is impossible.i have come to love wearing a mechanical watch, knowing there is so much craftsmanship hidden on my wrist. i really think that when you learn how much work is ticking in one single watch, you respect it and love it.

nicky hAydenmotogp (motorcycle) rAceri always have had a soft spot for watches. i think you can tell a lot about a guy by the style of watch he wears. i almost always wear a watch.when i think of time, i think of lap times. after all, that is the difference between winning and losing. My life is trying to win races, so the faster i am the happier i am. My favorite watch is the tissot i received for winning Laguna seca. a nice incentive for me is that the faster i am, the more watches i can get for my collection (tissot gives a watch to every Motogp winner).

lAndon donovAnsoccer plAyeri’ve always had a fascination with watches. i try to align myself with companies that i like and want to be partners with. i got to speak to the people at seiko and they are really great, and i am lucky to be involved with them.in games, when we are losing, time goes by really fast. when we are winning, it can’t go by fast enough. when we are up by a goal, time really drags. it’s just the way our mind plays with time. i like the fact that soccer doesn’t have a scoreboard clock because we stay in the moment, we aren’t watching the clock all the time.every day, i want to be the best i can be. if i do that, the rest will fall into place and i will get full enjoyment out of my career.

stefAnie grAftennis chAmpionFrom a young age i’ve always loved wearing a watch and even played my matches wearing one. For me, all my watches have great memories attached to them. i can look at each one and remember how i got it or from whom.My first watch was a Mickey Mouse watch that i won during one my first tournaments at the goofy Junior tournament, a series of tournaments that Disney put on. now, the Longines conquest is a favorite of mine — it’s a beautiful combination of sport and elegance.tennis offered me many amazing experiences and opportunities. i enjoyed traveling the world, meeting interesting people and learning their cultures. My time now is dedicated to my family and making a difference in children’s lives with my foundation, children for tomorrow. My partnership with Longines provides me with the opportunity to continue giving back and connecting with people that care.

rAfAel nAdAltennis chAmpioni love my richard Mille rM27 rafa nadal that richard created for me; it is only 18 grams and it is comfortable to wear. it took two years to develop and it has my name on it, which is why i wear it all the time. i think watches are the jewels for men and in the end you always need one to arrive on time to places.i am a very organized person in my work and for me it is important to get to places on time when people are waiting for me. i have to be at matches on time, but also practice, interviews, photo shoots and more.i love the sport of tennis — i enjoy every minute i am playing. it is a lot of fun. i think i am a lucky person to be able to make a living doing what i like to do.

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michAel WilbonJournAlist, co-host of espn’s pArdon the interruptioni don’t believe in men wearing a bunch of jewelry. i have come to appreciate nice timepieces — to be well dressed, i think you have to wear a fine watch. i don’t walk out of my house without a watch.My life is completely and utterly governed by time. the pti show is 10 years old but i have been a reporter for 30 years. i am driven by deadlines and i have to be aware of time zones, because my deadline is always on east coast time. i am always late, but i don’t miss deadlines. if it’s important, i won’t miss it.My favorite watch is my steel and gold ebel, which i wear more than others. i have my eye on a new iwc, but i also am looking at a new David yurman.

crAig robinsdeveloper/founder of design miAmii strive to continue to find ways to innovate, and i never want to repeat myself. in the mid-1980s when the south Beach area was a slum and conventional wisdom was that all those beautiful historical buildings should be torn down, i saw it as a business opportunity and a way to create a new identity for Miami, and south Beach has become the iconic center of Miami and was the catalyst for Miami becoming an international city of cultural substance.i love the Montblanc nicolas rieussec anniversary chronograph. i know that this year is the 190th anniversary of Montblanc, which is very inspiring. it’s an incredible timepiece — it’s got such depth and history, and it is a really good example of maintaining tradition and still being innovative.time is this man-made invention to give us the ability to measure. time and space are the two things that define most how we think. My perspective in anything i do is that i try to make it work financially, and i also try to think about building reputation and creating value, rather than getting an immediate and easy return.

nick stellinocelebrity chef And best-selling AuthorMy watch is a constant reminder that: “time waits for no one.” we are not what we wish we were, we are who we have become.My most precious watch is my oldest one; my father bought it when i was born. he wanted to memorialize this milestone in his life and the promise he had made to his family. that watch, to him, represented what he wanted to become.Later in life, my dad would come into our bedroom, to kiss me and my brother good night, and he would let me wind his watch and say: “if you wind my watch, good and tight, i will always know what time it is and i will always come home for your good night kiss.” he always did!i could tell you that what i like most about a watch is its dial, the way it feels on my wrist, or maybe the decoration of its movement, but that would be a lie.i love a watch that can help me tell a story… my story.

dAnicA pAtrickindy cAr And nAscAr driveri have found something that i love to do, so the fact that i have a passion for my job and enjoy it is half of the battle. the rest of it is the challenge of accomplishing things and setting goals and seeing them through. the best feeling is the feeling of accomplishing a goal from just a dream.time is about the only thing that is important on a racetrack. the first thing you do when you get there is to try to see how quickly you can get around the track, so you are looking at the lap time and trying to make that number smaller and smaller.i am a girl and i like to have a watch that matches every occasion. i have really enjoyed being a part of the development process of my tissot limited edition watch every year.

emmAnuelle chriquiActressi love watches because, other than the fact they tell time, they are another piece of wonderful jewelry. you can wear something big, something little and elegant, and it really puts the outfit together. My father is a huge watch fan, and he has a nice collection of watches, so i have always been surrounded by watches.the beauty of acting and make-believe is that time seems to stop. when i am on set and i am just doing what i love to do, even on the longest day, you can’t believe that it’s gone by so quickly. it really does feel like “where does the time go?” it really seems to vanish.when doing a play, there is no going back and no going forward, there is just right there, right then. when you are having a great night and you are in tune with the audience, it is unlike anything else i have experienced.

lAird hAmiltonsurfing legendi do need a timepiece so i can make sure of how much time i have in the surf. now that i have a family, i have to be places on time.when i tested the chanel J12 Marine and found out it was “Laird-proof,” i believed in it. the functional aspects, like the way the band is designed without pins, means that it really fits the wrist well and stays on in the water. they took everything away and got to the simplest aspects, which i really like.when you ride a wave it’s the only place i know that time doesn’t exist. there is no beginning or end, it’s just a continuation to the next wave. During the act of surfing itself, when you are in that moment, there is no time. you are just there.



In today’s hurried and harried world, we often buy things with little thought, looking to get it done as quickly as possible. And, as a result, the pleasure of buying just about everything has been lost.

Remember browsing in bookstores? Now, many people buy from Amazon.com or purchase e-books, which is really convenient but not nearly as satisfying or pleasurable. Same with music, which is mostly digital today.

Thankfully, you can still enjoy the purchase of a fine timepiece at one of the many fine retailers in the Miami area.

For a luxury timepiece, part of buying it is the experience — coming into the beautiful store, trying the watch on, finding out as much as you want to know, having the watch fitted to your wrist and more.

Fine timepieces are not commodities, like books or music, where it doesn’t really matter where you buy them. Quality and authenticity vary widely in today’s watch marketplace, so to a certain extent it is

“buyer beware” — you don’t necessarily want to buy from the person or business that offers the lowest prices.

That’s where your friendly authorized retailer comes in.

Authorized retAilersAn authorized retailer is a store that is approved

to sell the products of a particular brand, which means that the product has a full warranty and the retailer, as the brand’s local representative, will stand behind it.

“There are so many advantages to buying from an authorized retailer in today’s world,” says Robin Levinson, co-owner of Levinson Jewelers. “We offer the security that if something goes wrong with what our customers buy, they have a secure place that will stand behind it; we offer confidence that the product is 100% original; and we offer a huge selection of brands and different watches.”

There are all sorts of horror stories of people unknowingly buying counterfeit, used or stolen watches, which cannot happen when you work with an authorized retailer.

“When you buy from an authorized retailer, you simply know you are buying top quality and getting an authentic branded timepiece,” says Thomas A. Andruskevich, President and CEO of Birks & Mayors. “It also means you can come back and see the retailer for the care and maintenance of your watch, and come back as often as needed with any questions or concerns. A great watch can be kept for life, even passed down to future generations, and as such you want to make sure you are keeping it in the best state possible. An authorized retailer is in the best position to help you do just that. Mayors’ 101-year heritage of trust and service along with our prominent and dominant selection of Swiss timepieces make us stand out.”

where to buy

FOR A LUxURY timepiece, part of buying it is the experience — coming into the beautiful store, trying the watch on, finding out as much as you want to know, having the watch fitted to your wrist and more.

harry winston opus eleven

Levinson Jewelers

Breitling for Bentley Barnato

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There is a great deal of information in the magazines, on the web and in other places — the best retailers can put all that information into perspective for you.

to knoW before you goBefore you go to the store, think about what sort

of watch you want, how you want to use it, where you want to wear it and how much you want to spend.

“We talk to our customers and ask questions like ‘Do you want something dressy or sporty?’ and from there we start to get a feel for what would suit that customer,” says Levinson. “They usually start telling us more as the conversation flows.”

Great retailers will make sure that the watch you pick is perfect for your lifestyle. “To help a customer select a watch, I’d want to find out when they will be wearing the watch (at the office, while playing sports, traveling, etc.); if they are interested in special features or complications on their timepiece like a chronograph, moon phase, tourbillon, perpetual calendar or minute repeater, for example; and finally have an idea of their budget,” says Andruskevich. “Ultimately it doesn’t matter if you’re planning on spending $500 or $50,000, you want to make sure you are getting the right timepiece for your needs. To help someone find the right watch shows that we’ve connected with them and have taken the time to find out more about their personality and lifestyle. It’s also great

to know someone will cherish that watch for many years and hopefully pass it on to their children or grandchildren.”

it should be funHave fun choosing your next timepiece — it

should be really enjoyable.“I like to help people find the watch that is

perfect for them,” says Levinson. “I have an ability to talk with someone for a short time and be able to have a sense of what would work for them, and together we discover what that watch is. I find watches fascinating and I appreciate the workmanship that goes into making something so small but with so many functions, and I love to share my passion for watches with our customers.”

Choosing the right retailer is important, because it’s the start of a long-term relationship, as you will be depending on the store for the right information, answers to your questions and continuing service.

“Our customers are at the heart of everything we do,” says Andruskevich. “We are committed to offering them the best shopping experience, from the moment they walk in looking for a watch or a piece of jewelry, to many years after they’ve purchased from us, ensuring they get the best possible service for their watches and jewels.”

There aren’t many places where you can be pampered and appreciated as a customer, but watch and jewelry retailers are one.

Relish the experience.

Birks & Mayors Dadeland Mall7457 north kendall Dr., Miami 305-667-7517, www.mayors.com six stores in the Miami area

Breitling Boutique aventura opening Fall 2011 aventura Mall19575 Biscayne Blvd., aventura www.breitling.com.

east coast Jewelers 16810 collins ave., sunny isles Beach 305-947-8883, www.ecjusa.com

eLy-M 48 e Flagler st. #2, Miami 305-374-4100, www.elym.com

h&h Jewelers 3434 Main highway, Miami 305-442-9760, www.hhjewels.com

harry winston Boutique Bal harbour shops9700 collins ave., Bal harbour786-206-6657, www.harrywinston.com

king Jewelers 18265 Biscayne Blvd., aventura 305-935-4900, www.kings1912.com

Levinson Jewelers 888 east Las olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale 954-462-8880, 866-Levinson www.levinsonjewelers.com

Montblanc Boutique aventura Mall19575 Biscayne Blvd., aventura 305-931-1898, www.montblanc.com

Montblanc Boutique Miami Dadeland Mall7481 sw 88th st., Miami 305-669-5152, www.montblanc.com also at town center at Boca raton and the gardens Mall in palm Beach gardens

Morays Jewelers 50 ne 2nd ave., Miami 305-374-0739, www.moraysjewelers.com

officine panerai Boutique Boca raton 318 plaza real Boca raton, Boca raton 561-361-6526, www.panerai.com Bal harbour shops Boutique opening soon at 9700 collins ave., Bal harbour

rainbow Jewelry 101 ne 1st st., Miami, 305-371-2289

tourneau www.tourneau.comMultiple locations throughout south Florida

south Florida’s best watch retailers

Mayors

Montblanc vintage pulsographe

Mandarin Oriental, Miami 500 Brickell Key Drive, Miami, FL 33131 For reservations, call (305) 913 8383 or visit www.mandarinoriental.com/miami

Miami’s most stunning waterfront hotel with luxurious suites, all with panoramic city and sea views.

tastic suites.

the discerning guide o fine t timepieces€¦ · due to the fact that watches as a whole are so...

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