the cultured traveller, issue 10, april/may 2016

COLOMBO COPN RUINS VANA MALSI ESTATE NIHONBASHISAADIYAT ISLAND THE EMPRESS SUITE BOB SINCLAR

SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVIL, COLOMBO

ISSUE 10APRIL/MAY 2016

Every moment of your time together is precious.Thats why were dedicated to providing a premium service from the minute you check-in, to the moment you land in any of the more than 150 places we fly to worldwide. Together we can create experiences to cherish and memories that last a lifetime. qatarairways.com

Going places together

The future is now. When we can step on a plane as easily as we can hail a cab, traverse the globe in 24 hours, vacation anywhere on the planet, eat whatever cuisine takes our fancy anywhere, anytime, and shop remotely at the click of a button, whats right in front of us gets lost in the blur. The best of what the world has to reveal is often hidden in plain sight, and were too locked on fast-forward to see

it. Yet its these simple offerings that are often more rewarding than our best-laid plans. The dancing fountains in downtown Dubai are, for me, the best attraction in the city yet the crowds meander by without slowing. A walk along the Seine in Paris is natures urban communion, often missed by many visitors in favour of boutiques and baguettes. For years I visited Johannesburg on business, but never ew down to Cape Town. When I eventually did, so infatuated was I with the Mother City that I stayed for months and didn't want to leave. That was more than a decade ago, yet here I am, many years later having just done it again, and the world still has secrets to show and stories to tell. I've been visiting Sri Lanka for three years yet never stopped to see its capital. When I did visit Colombo on a quick jaunt last year, I discovered a vibrant, artistic and blossoming metropolitan hub in the middle of what is essentially a tourist island. When I revisited to have a better look, uncovering its culture, history, colour and charisma, there was no doubt that Colombo would shine as a cover story for The Cultured Traveller. I hope you enjoy reading about its energetic heart as much as I did exploring its cultural nooks and culinary crannies. This issue is our biggest to date I might add, as Lucy Taylor visits the Honduran Copn ruins (p90), Ashlee Starratt takes a weekend break on an island in Abu Dhabi (p74), and we pull up a chair at Sri Lankan master chef Dharshan Munidasas table as his famed Japanese restaurant makes Asia's 50 Best for the fourth year in a row (p98). Then theres my exclusive interview with hospitality guru Brian Clivaz about his swanky new London members club, slated to open in a matter of weeks in the heart of the business district (p62). And, for the music lovers amongst you, we managed to catch-up with dashing superstar French DJ Bob Sinclar (p114). As always I hope you enjoy reading this issue as much as the team and I had putting it together.

Saadiyat Island

Colombo

Copn Ruins

Editors Letter

Nicholas Chrisostomou

APRIL/MAY 2016

08 The Cultured Traveller April/May 2016

Ashlee Starratt is a Canadian editor and journalist based out of Doha, Qatar. With a passion for story-telling, if its lifestyle, wellness, travel or food, shes probably written about it. With a background in print media and television across Canada and the Middle East, Ashlee has worked as Editorial Director for Qatar Happening and ABODE magazines, as a reporter, videographer and host for www.haligonia.ca, and as a producer for Pink Dog Productions out of Halifax, Nova Scotia. She can be found on her travels, collecting stamps in her passport, in search of stories that need to be told.

Contributors

SUBSCRIPTIONS [email protected] TCT ON THE WEB www.TheCulturedTraveller.com TCT ON FACEBOOK www.facebook.com/TheCulturedTraveller ADVERTISING [email protected] EDITORIAL [email protected]

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Nicholas Chrisostomou DEPUTY EDITOR Kalia MichaelidesCOPY EDITOR Hazel Pavlou-Jay GRAPHIC DESIGNER Eleana Nicolaou WEB DEVELOPERS Oleg Gnatyk & Dmytriy Suslov

Ashlee StarrattResides: Doha Wrote: No Shoes Required

Alex BenasuliResides: London Wrote: Spotlight

Alex has been traveling the world his whole life. Growing up in New York City, he would accompany his family every summer on visits to relatives in Spain, France and Germany. A successful two-decade

career in finance often took him to Brazil, Mexico, Turkey, Russia, India, Indonesia and all over the Far East.

Today, as an avid yoga practitioner and part-time teacher, Alex has a keen appreciation for combining luxury highbrow urban travels with off the beaten track alternative destinations and experiences.

Farheen is a model turned entrepreneur from London, currently based in Qatar. After the runways of India, Paris, Milan, London and New York she now advises international fashion brands on their

Middle East strategy specialising in retail, PR and events. A globetrotter herself, Farheen is an avid online shopper and treasure hunter. She loves discovering emerging brands and is committed to bringing the far-fetched to your attention. Farheen loves adventure and is a cat-loving, free fall

parachutist, mother of two boys.

Farheen AllsoppResides: Doha Wrote: Stylish Globetrotter

Lucy is an award-winning journalist with more than a decades experience in print and broadcast media. She spent 7 years in the UAE, most recently working for Arabian Radio Network as News Editor and Presenter/Producer of The Travel Show, and as a contributing reporter on City7 TVs UAE Weekly programme.Lucy left Dubai in December 2014 and has spent most of 2015 on the road, exploring new countries and cultures, freelancing for various publications, and creating videos and podcasts for her website, www.LucyTaylorTravels.com. Lucy has travelled to and reported from more than 50 countries.

Lucy TaylorResides: Bristol Wrote: Traveller Lowdown

SOUTH AFRICANow in its 17th year, the Mother City's annual

award-winning celebration of jazz, will once again take over the Cape Town International Convention Centre for a

CAPE TOWN JAZZ FESTIVAL

SNOWBOMBINGAUSTRIAOften referred to as the Glastonbury of mountain

gatherings, the world's biggest festival in the snow takes place over a week in the Tyrolean resort of Mayrhofen, towards the end of the annual ski season. Days are spent skiing, boarding, enjoying music on mountain top stages or relaxing in luxury hotel spas. Nights deliver cutting-edge performances in unique venues, from a sky high igloo to an enchanted forest clearing. This year's line-up includes The Prodigy, Groove Armada, Fat Boy Slim, Jamie Jones, The Cuban Brothers, Sven Vath plus countless other famous DJs and musical acts.4-9 April 2016www.snowbombing.com

COACHELLAUSAA huge, well organised cultural playground of up to

100,000 people at any one time, Coachella is the rst major music event in the annual festival calendar. Held at the Empire Polo Club in the Colorado Desert, this global gathering is populated by sweaty fashionistas, designer-hippies and musical trendsetters for its 10-day duration. The 2016 line-up is headlined by Guns N' Roses, LCD Soundsystem and superstar DJ Calvin Harris, plus Sia, Ellie Goulding and Disclosure. Coachella is very much California's glossy, glam, dry and hot answer to the wet and mud of Glastonbury. You won't see any wellies here!15-24 April 2016www.coachella.com

NAGHOL LAND DIVINGVANUATUEvery year, men of the Sa tribe on Pentecost Island in

a remote part of the vast South Pacic - in a frightening appeasement to the gods and a showy display of their masculinity - build a 30 metre tower out of wood reclaimed from the forest, climb to the top, and jump o, tethered only by jungle vines tied around their ankles. Tribal members on the ground sing and dance to help the diver be brave. If the vine is too short the jumper will crash back into the tower. If its too long, he will almost certainly break bones or possibly even perish. Watching these jumpers is certainly not for the faint-hearted. Thankfully tribal chiefs allow only 50 visitors per event.April 2016www.portvilavanuatu.com

whole weekend, featuring everything from jazz legends to festival newcomers, musical storytellers and up-tempo high-energy acts for younger attendees. More than forty local and international artists will perform on ve stages, including South African pianist Afrika Mkhize, celebrated English jazz autist Eddie Parker, Grammy-nominated singer/songwriter Angie Stone from the States, plus classically-trained Canadian music group, BadBadNotGood.1-2 April 2016www.capetownjazzfest.com


TRUJILLO NATIONAL CHEESE FESTIVAL

SPAINEach spring, Trujillo in the Cceres region of Spain,

hosts a mammoth international cheese fest, featuring around 300 varieties by local artisan cheese makers together with international produce. During the course of the four-day gathering, up to 100,000 foodies descend on the town's historic main square, Plaza Mayor, to sample cheeses, eat and drink in one of the restaurants and generally feast on the ner culinary things in life, while hundreds of booths in the square oer tastings, talks, music and tasty treats for sale.29 April - 2 May 2016www.feriadelquesotrujillo.es

THRISSUR POORAM ELEPHANT FESTIVAL

INDIAThrissur is known as the cultural capital of the Indian

state of Kerala, and its name literally translates to "The city of the Sacred Siva". If you have a weakness for colourful festivals that both delight and assault the senses at the same time, this is the one for you, complete with reworks, folk dancing and drumming. The elephants are of course the main attraction, decorated with golden headdress, decorative bells, ornaments, palm leaves, peacock feathers and paintings. Ornate parasols, carried by the elephant riders on tall bamboo poles, add to the stunning visual feast.17 April 2016www.thrissurpooramfestival.com

CINCO DE MAYOMEXICODespite being outnumbered by the French - who had

about 8,000 men to the Mexicans' 4,000 - on 5th May 1862, the Mexican army was triumphant over French forces, which were considered to be the best in the world at the time, since they had been undefeated in 50 years. Although this victory was short-lived (within a year the Mexicans capitulated and the French took over the country), Cinco de Mayo is dedicated to this triumph. A vibrant colourful celebration, mainly focused in the state of Puebla, costumed paraders, Mexican dancers, mariachi bands, parties and dancing ll the streets, while festival goers eat, drink and cheerfully carouse.5 May 2016

FRIEZE NEW YORKUSAThe American cousin of Britains most important

annual artistic happening, Frieze New York has become one of the most important contemporary art fairs stateside, showcasing works by more that 1,000 artists. The Big Apple incarnation is fun, colourful and as much of a social event for locals and overseas visitors, as it is a serous art market for dealers and curators. Here the pleasure is attending, people watching, exploring the art and discovering talented newcomers beyond the obvious, well-known pricey names. The food ensemble is also jolly enticing.5-8 May 2016www.friezenewyork.com

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*Terms and conditions apply. HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. 2016 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

RUSSIADirected by maestro Valery Gergiev, the opera and

ballet companies of St Petersburg's famous Mariinsky Theatre, are renowned and revered throughout Russia and around the world, for their incredibly detailed and elaborate

STARS OF THE WHTE NIGHTS

HAY FESTIVALWALESFor ten days annually from the end of May until early

June, for the past 27 years (when the playful British weather is most likely to be bright and sunny), thousands of literary bus descend upon Hay-on-Wye in Wales' beautiful Brecon Beacons National Park, sit down on the

FRANCEBarring the red carpet, Cannes is probably most famous for its beach happenings, premiere after parties and awards ceremony bashes. Held

annually in the famous upscale French seaside resort, it's one of the lm world's most important events, attended by prestigious directors and famous actors as well as up-and-coming producers and professionals who have yet to make their mark. Nowadays the festival provides a rendezvous for those interested in movies, lm makers and the industry's inuencers, as well as an international marketplace where producers and distributors exchange ideas, watch lms and sign contracts. 11-22 May 2016www.festival-cannes.com

CANNES INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

CAPPADOXTURKEYIn Cappadocia - a region in central Turkey full of

marvellous natural sites, including Monks Valley's tall cone-shaped rock formations known as the fairy chimneys - is a three-day festival like no other, nestled amongst the ancient rocks. Cappadox is a celebration of eclectic music, food, arts and culture, inspired by the unique geography and history of the area, including a range of performances, dining events and outdoor activities such as cycling, yoga and nature walks, to take in the beauty and make the most of the festival's incredible location.19-22 May 2016www.cappadox.com

BRIGHTON FESTIVAL UKPrevious guest directors of London-By-The-Sea's (as it's

often aectionally called) critically acclaimed mixed art festival, have included Aung San Suu Kyi, Vanessa Redgrave and Anish Kapoor. The UK's biggest and boldest arts festival, Brighton Festival is a creative cornucopia of world-class art and entertainment events across the city, including debates, musical concerts and theatrical performances - many of which are specially commissioned and have their public airings at the festival.7-29 May 2016www.brightonfestival.org

grass or in a deckchair and read books. Hay celebrates great writing from poets and scientists, lyricists and comedians, novelists and environmentalists, and the power of great ideas to transform peoples' way of thinking, and gives everyone from children to professors the opportunity to enjoy the energy of the written word.26 May - 5 June 2016www.hayfestival.com/wales

interpretations of the greatest classics, including Tchaikovskys Eugene Onegin and Swan Lake, plus works by Mozart, Verdi and Rossini. The annual White Nights festival of ballet and opera is a unique cultural event, held at the city's three premier music venues - Mariinsky Theatre, New Theatre and Concert Hall - during the magical summer period when the sun never sets.27 May-31 July 2016www.balletandopera.com

April/May 2016 The Cultured Traveller 13

FAENA Miami Beach had its golden age, beginning in the 1940s lasting through the early 1960s. Temples of Art Deco and Modernism were built. Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack entertained. Despite its ascendancy, Miami was a relative backwater compared to the chic and sexy Latin cities of Rio de Janeiro, Havana and Buenos Aires. Today, Miami increasingly claims its place as the de facto capital of Latin America and a global centre for the arts and culture. Whilst the latter is almost certainly true, nothing epitomizes this transformation of Miami more adeptly, than the recent opening of Faena hotel in December 2015 and the soon to be revealed Faena Forum, all the brainchild of enigmatic billionaire Argentinian hotelier and real estate developer, Alan Faena. A cornucopia of tropical chic, Faena makes a direct claim as the descendant of Miami's and Latin America's golden age. This luxurious feel is made more contemporary and fun by providing the drama and creativity that coincidentally come when parading a theme of art, music and culture. The hotel entrance is cathedral-like, with soaring ceilings, a long hallway lined with gold-leafed columns and richly colourful Garden of Eden-inspired murals by Argentine painter, Juan Gatti. At the end of this passage way, through the main lobby and out past the pool and garden towards the beach, stands Damien Hirst's 'Gone but not Forgotten' (2014) the 24-karat gilded skeleton of a three-metre tall woolly mammoth, reputed to have cost a cool USD 18 million. Restaurant Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann is another focal point of Faena, and is under the gastronomic direction of one of Argentina's most celebrated chefs. Los Fuegos being Spanish for fire, hints as to the type of cuisine primarily on offer - grilled meats, fish and vegetables for which Argentina is famous. Fiery not only describes the food but also the overall ethos of the dcor. Shades of gold and bronze combined with deep reds and faux leopard skin create a sumptuous, luxurious and decadent ambiance. The adjoining Living Room, often hosting Cuban bands and cabaret singers, has quickly become one of Miami's most elegant nightspots. This lounge, together with Saxony DJ bar, form Faenas nightlife epicentre. Rooms of every category - from city to ocean view and multiple suite offerings - are beautifully decorated with strong accents of teal and red and an Art Deco flair. All rooms and suites include the hotels signature butler service. The hotel is just the first part of the ever-evolving Faena District, a massive master-planned arts/entertainment/residential development that stretches four blocks along Mid-Beach between the Atlantic Ocean to Indian Creek, that includes a Norman Foster-designed tower of private residences and the much anticipated Faena Forum designed by starchitect Rem Koolhaas, a true cultural centre focusing on performance arts, music, fine arts and much more. Even film director Baz Luhrmann is part of team Faena. Clearly a new golden age is happening in Miami.ALEX BENASULIwww.faena.com

MIAMI

14

Rest Your HeadRest Your HeadMiami, Berlin, Stellenbosch, Seville, Langkawi, London,

Bangkok, Athens, Tanah Gajah, Kalpitiya, Marrakech, Venice

DAMIEN HIRST'S GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTENIMAGE BY IVAN BELAUSTEGUI, COURTESY OF FAENA

DAS STUE HOTEL Since the wall came down, the rebirth of Berlin as one of the worlds most happening social hubs has been far from quiet. At its core is a loud and vibrant, multi-cultured cosmopolitan art and nightlife scene, bursting with vivacity and charisma. Extremes of everything can be found in this one city, including some of Europes best restaurants, bars and clubs, and Berlins annual cultural calendar is jam-packed with events, one of the biggest being Berlinale, the world-famous international film festival. Consequently contemporary and traditional hotels, of all sizes and at every price point, have sprung up around the city, to accommodate the droves of people visiting throughout the year. New luxe boutique hotel, Das Stue, is a perfect representation of the Berlin of today, skilfully combining old and new and paying tribute to the citys past whilst at the same time embracing its outrageous present. Housed within a stunning, stately, 1930s neoclassical house - formerly the Danish embassy - together with a contemporary new addition designed by Potsdam-based Axthelm Architects, 78-room Das Stue is located in the citys traditional diplomatic neighbourhood, on the edge of Tiergarten Park. The hotels art aficionado owners chose acclaimed interior designer, Patricia Urquiola, to curate the look and feel of all the public areas. Her signature is a bold yet playful palate of colour, texture, styles and installations, in some places arresting whilst calming in others. The result is assertive and utterly unique. Rooms and suites feature a soft colour scheme, bespoke furniture, spacious bathrooms and all the amenities a cultured traveller would expect, sufficient to properly unwind after a frenzied day in the city. Das Stues premium accommodation offering is its Bel Etage Suite, equipped with two bathrooms and a sprawling living/dining room covering 110m of interior space, 5 metre ceilings, plus a 80m private terrace from which Berlin Zoos animals can be both seen and heard. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.das-stue.com/en

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BERLIN

STELLENBOSCH

18

DELAIRE GRAFF In the Western Cape of South Africa, on the banks of the Eerste River, nestles the town of Stellenbosch, sheltered in a lush valley. Its hilly terrain, with soils that range from dark alluvium to clay, combined with a mild Mediterranean climate which prevails all year round, have established this location as an ideal place for viticulture, and hence is home to some of the world's finest wineries. It comes as little surprise then, that Laurence Graff, chairman of Graff diamonds, chose one of Stellenbosch's most breathtaking estates to create a unique destination of unparalleled beauty, which combines hospitality, wine, food, art and glittering jewels. Delaire Graff Estate is decadence, culture and indulgence personified, much like a rare diamond skilfully crafted, polished and set. Ten individual lodges, fashioned by acclaimed British designer, David Collins, offer serene accommodation for discerning travellers. Each basks in natural light with double-height ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, which open out onto private, heated, plunge pools and vistas of vineyards, mountains and the estates perennial gardens. Neutral colours compliment the environment, whilst spacious marble bathrooms and contemporary African artworks lend an air of understated opulence, and the use of bamboo and reed together with polished concrete floors evoke minimalistic simplicity. Twenty hectares of vineyards produce the estate's award-winning wines, and whether you are a resident at Delaire or just an oenophile visitor, you can view the state-of-the-art winery, observe winemakers on-the-job and taste the fruits of their labours. Like everything else, dining also takes a different dimension here. Fresh produce - harvested daily from the estates greenhouses and gardens - is delivered to dining tables bursting with colour and flavour. At Indochine, diners can savour divine Asian-influenced cuisine with a South African twist, prepared by head chef Virgil Kahn. Meanwhile seasonal dishes abound at The Delaire Graff Restaurant, where classic bistro favourites are treated to South African touches and served in a spacious environment including a sprawling deck facing the vineyards and olive groves. With its distinctly holistic approach, Delaire Graff Spa caters to all ages and is open to residents and guests alike. Its innovative menu includes bespoke healing and anti-ageing treatments, some using 24-karat gold and Citrine, and is a sublime place to cocoon and indulge. And as if all the eating, drinking, reclining and lounging werent enough, theres even a jewellery boutique showcasing Graffs exquisite diamonds and haute horology in suitably resplendent surroundings. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.delaire.co.za

CORRAL DEL REY Unfolding Sevilles myriad of layers, to discover the heart and core of this sundrenched Andalusian city, will reward you with untold pleasures and revelations. Moorish architecture and cobbled streets give Seville the looks, Flamenco adds zest and the foodie scene fulfils the gratification. The gusto of the Sevillanos is contagious and its not difficult to become addicted to both their languor and joie de vivre. One of the best places to rest your head in this vivacious city and uncover all that Seville has to offer, is Corral Del Rey, a 17th century Casa Palacio, lovingly restored with devotion and much TLC. Conveniently located in the old quarter of Barrio Alfalfa, just five minutes from the cathedral, this bijou privately-owned boutique hotel, offers deluxe accommodation in five categories, including a spacious pool terrace suite with private plunge pool and expansive sundeck, and a penthouse suite boasting views across the rooftops of Seville. The hotels interior designer, Kuky Mora-Figueroa, has stamped her eclectic mix of ancient and modern in every room, rendering each refreshingly different from the other. Bathrooms are bedecked in marble and limestone with walk-in rain showers, and the finest linens and handmade blankets adorn the beds. A city of eaters, drinkers and merry-makers, Seville is home to many excellent tapas bars. One of the citys oldest is the atmospheric El Riconcillo, famous for its superb raciones (www.elrinconcillo.es) and Corral Del Reys helpful staff will be more than happy to guide you there, or furnish you with a list of the best restaurants and bodegas in town. Should you prefer to spend a night in, the hotels quaint rooftop terrace, with its extended mirador, is a delightful place to sip a glass of wine, nibble on home-made tapas and take in the sweeping views of the picturesque cityscape. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.corraldelrey.com

SEVILLE


THE ST. REGIS LANGKAWI For decades the 99-island archipelago of Langkawi - a UNESCO World First Geopark, off the western coast of northern Malaysia - has been the weekend destination for Singaporians and Kuala Lumpans in need of a quick fix of sea and sand away from city madness. Langkawi has largely remained everything that Bali has not, i.e. relatively undeveloped with few flash resorts and discreet nightlife, and so the destination has lost little of its natural charm and landscape, managed to retain an air of sophistication, and continues to provide a rather palatable option for those looking for an authentic south-east Asian beachside vacation without the fireworks and late-night shenanigans. The St. Regis Langkawi Resort is the first luxury hotel to open within the last decade in Malaysias coveted island jewel, and is the upscale hospitality brand's debut property in Malaysia, soon to be followed by The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur scheduled to open in June 2016. Tucked away in an exclusive enclave in its own private cove on Langkawi's southern most tip, St. Regis Langkawi is the first luxury all-suite resort on the islands, and its architectural footprint follows that of a vast, private residential palace, nestled within steep rocky hills, forming two small peninsulas along a sandy shore. A six-storey central mansion, with two lagoon suite wings cascading outwards towards the shorelines, are fringed by a 600-metre private white sand beach overlooking the emerald green waters of a 100,000m2 natural salt swimming lagoon, also private, which merges with the shimmering Andaman Sea. Guests are immersed in a dreamlike atmosphere immediately upon arrival, luxuriating in blue lights, cooling mists and a dramatic garden oasis. The resort's 4 over-water villas and 85 suites - including 20 private pool suites (with their own cabanas) and a four-bedroom over-water villa - are decorated in fresh, light colour schemes inspired by the areas brilliant corals, emerald green sea and lush jungles, accented with bold precious metallic touches and local artwork which underscores Langkawi's rich heritage and natural surroundings. All suites boast incredible sunset views and the resort also features a number of deluxe on-site dining options and bars, plus an eight treatment-room Iridium Spa, to further enliven the senses and keep you on property. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUwww.stregis.com/langkawi

LANGKAWI


THE HOXTON, HOLBORN London is forever reinventing itself and its hotel scene is no exception. The onset of Airbnb and similar property rental websites, has caused many of the world's metropolises to adjust their accommodation offerings to compete more effectively in what is now a vastly expanded and more cost-conscious arena. Leisure travellers visiting the sometimes pricey British capital - without the benefit of a company expense account - are especially attracted by the many benefits of renting a serviced apartment, which usually offer more space, more privacy and less damage to the holiday budget. The Hoxton group has cleverly stepped into this market, with its funky, no-nonsense, well considered, design-led hotel concept, offering rooms of varying sizes at reasonable prices with the bare necessities included. The first Hoxton hotel won multiple awards and quickly became a destination for eating and drinking in Shoreditch, as well as staying overnight, offering fashionable value for money in the often over-priced City of London. The hotel brand's second outpost, located within a Grade II listed building in High Holborn, a stone's throw (literally) from Covent Garden, offers 174 bedrooms over five floors in four cutesy upfront categories, including the smallest, Shoebox, and largest, Roomy. Each are cleverly and stylishly designed to maximise comfort and space, with duck-down pillows and duvets, plus 280-thread count linen decking beds which feature hand-crafted, Royal Warranted luxury Hypnos mattresses. City slick en-suites are tiled in glossy black and white, with walk-in showers, fluffy towels and American C.O. Bigelow amenities. Room stay guests benefit from free Wi-Fi, an hour of landline phone calls each day, fresh milk, tea, coffee and mineral water, plus a daily breakfast bag filled with orange juice, granola yoghurt pot and banana to kick start the day. Public spaces are run by the immensely skilled Soho House group, and include Hubbard & Bell dishing up classic American grub, Chicken Shop serving rotisserie chicken, and Holborn Grind coffee shop creating frothy cappuccinos and skinny latts for the masses. On street level, with a bright shop-front on High Holborn, there's also Cheeky, a funky boutique dedicated to pampering, where guests can indulge in a mani or pedi expeditiously executed by a skilled technician, seven days a week. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUwww.thehoxton.com/london/holborn

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LONDON

BANGKOKTHE SIAM The Siam is the complete antithesis to Bangkoks soaring skyscrapers and cloud-skimming skyline. Located in the Royal Dusit district, on the banks of the Chao Praya River, its distinctly low-rise design and select inventory of just 39 suites and villas, sets it apart from the frantic city as an urban oasis of exclusivity, calm and elegance. Constructed to house the private antique collection of the hotels owners, the Sukosol family - fondly dubbed the musical hoteliers of Thailand - its matriarch and president of Sukosol Hotels, Kamala Sukosol, was Forbes Asias Hero of Philanthropy in 2009. Her excellent taste, eye for detail and fondness for all things beautiful are evident throughout The Siams interiors, which evoke the grace and splendour of Bangkoks era under the rule of King Rama V, complete with a dusting of Art Deco touches. A muted colour scheme of black, white, cream, grey and neutral tones, has been skilfully combined with natural textures - including woods, leathers and stone finishes - fashioned by Bill Bensley, name-checked as one of Architectural Digests top 100 designers. The result is breathtakingly stylish, sophisticated and most likely timeless. Suites and villas have been individually designed and filled with original Oriental artworks, sculptures and antiques. Exquisite bathrooms of black and white, feature walk-in showers, oversized bathtubs and lavish fittings. Riverview pool villas - of which The Siam has four - have internal gardens, a private swimming pool, an open-air roof terrace and stand to attention in prime position on the riverfront. Every suite at The Siam comes with a personal butler and guests may avail themselves of a private boat service which shuttles between the hotel and Saphan Taksin central pier. Consequently The Siam is almost certainly one of the most chic and cultured addresses in the Thai capital. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.thesiamhotel.com


COCO-MAT HOTEL ATHENS Despite the country's recent, much publicised financial woes, the capital has largely shrugged-off Greece's economic dramas and conversely benefitted from a surge in international visitors, looking for a good value cultural experiential vacation. After all, Athens is one of the most historic cities in the world, and few sites can compare with its spectacular Acropolis together with the city's wealth of extraordinary ancient relics and museums. Marry these with funky bars and galleries, a booming culinary scene, jumping music industry and a vibrant art culture, and you have the makings of a pulsating city break in incredible surroundings, offering something for everyone - locals, tourists, young, old, students, collectors, shoppers and international jet setters alike. Consequently many of Athens' hotels - even the top-end most expensive - regularly run at full capacity, and so finding quality, well-located, reasonably-priced accommodation in the Greek capital is not as easy as one would have thought. In pre crisis days, the old-moneyed neighbourhood of Kolonaki was the go-to place for cash flushed Athenians to power shop for Gucci, Fendi and other designers. Today the high end shops are very much still present in the city's most exclusive district, but Kolonaki is more funky, modern and hip, and so Italian brands trade side-by-side with clothing and accessories designed by Greeks, together with cafs, restaurants and bars, of which the area - particularly around the bustling square - is brimming. The neighbourhood also boasts beautiful architecture, including some stunning buildings which date back to the interwar era, plus some splendid examples of the Athenian modernist movement. Originally built as an apartment block, the 1935 building which houses COCO-MAT Hotel Athens, underwent an extensive transformation to create an exclusive, modern urban hideaway, of 39 rooms and luxury suites for Athens explorers in the know. The hotel interior pays tribute to the understated elegance that the well-known Greek COCO-MAT brand is best known for. Natural materials, subtle colours, gentle tones, raw surfaces, creative dcor elements and designer touches, all harmonise perfectly to convey a cool, contemporary feel, and offer a spa-like hospitality retreat from the city's busy streets. Guest rooms feature unique artwork, boast dramatic city or Lycabettus Hill vistas, and obviously the sleep experience - thanks to COCO-MATs divine mattresses, pillows and top-end bed linen - is undoubtedly one of the best in Athens. Guests also enjoy free bicycle rental of the hotels unique 100% wooden designer cycles. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUwww.cocomatathens.com

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ATHENS

THE CHEDI CLUB Despite the huge number of tourists Bali attracts year round, and its commercialised adaptation to host and cater to visitors from all walks of life, there are still a few charmingly hidden spots on the island, believe it or not. Away from the surfers and overcrowded areas of Kuta and Seminyak, set on a Balinese hillside, is the village of Ubud, renowned for its artists societies and the cinematic setting of Eat Pray Love. Among endless acres of rice paddies, The Chedi Club sits here in completely secluded solitude. A former private estate turned luxury retreat, the resort occupies five hectares of verdant land, dotted with just twenty luxury vacation pads, overlooking nothing but lotus ponds and rice terraces. Balinese paintings hang on brick walls and wood-carved furniture fill the rooms. Open-air bathrooms connect guests with the environment, and outdoor living spaces provide a calm-enough setting to chill, switch-off and completely detach from the world. For those seeking greater privacy, Spa Pool Villas boast their own treatment room, and a dedicated butler is discreetly on hand to fulfil guests every fancy. The Chedi Clubs enchanting onsite restaurant - designed in the local style with a thatched roof and no walls - not only continues the resorts sense of serenity, but is also one of best eateries in the area, offering Balinese, Western and Asian dishes, all prepared using the freshest ingredients, organic vegetables and rice harvested from adjacent fields. Together with a pool bar, divine onsite spa and yoga studio, there really is very little reason to leave this Balinese haven of peace, relaxation and tranquillity until its time to return to the real world. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.ghmhotels.com/en/tanah-gajah/

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TANAH GAJAH

BLUE KITE Given that it's five hours flying time or less from Hong Kong, Singapore plus the capitals of UAE, Qatar, Oman and Malaysia, in recent years Sri Lanka has become increasingly popular amongst expats looking for an authentic break from their pressurised Middle Eastern and Asian jobs. It's not hard to see why, when the island has plenty to offer and tourists get so much for their holiday dollars. In Sri Lanka you can spend a day walking through spectacular hills, admiring tea plantations and quaint villages, then find yourself on a safari trip looking for leopards and elephants. You can white water raft in the rainforest, then check out for a few days on a picturesque beach and bask in glorious sunshine. Hence the hospitable island nation is now awash with deluxe villas, stand alone boutique guest houses, design-led hotels, colonial retreats, wellness and spa escapes and plush resorts, both inland and all around its 1,300 km of coastline. Of course these range hugely in price, quality, comfort levels and experience. It's easy to find somewhere fancy to rest your head in Sri Lanka, with pricing not dissimilar to the Maldives, which is just a one-hour hop, skip and jump away. But when it comes to quality, value for money and personal service, it's less easy to find somewhere comfy to relax and kick-back without breaking the bank. A holiday doesn't always have to cost an arm and a leg. Not satisfied with creating Udekki - one of the most popular design-led resorts in the sandy haven of Kalpitiya, halfway up Sri Lanka's west coast, boasting some of the world's best kitesurfing conditions - jazz and blues musician, Glen Terry, has recently opened Blue Kite, in tandem with his charming photographer partner, Carolyn McKay. A delightful, four-bedroom bijou resort, built around a sublime oversized swimming pool, this is not an overpriced 5-star hotel, but a mid-priced super-comfy retreat, bedecked with designer touches and serviced by a small, personal and friendly team, for whom literally nothing is too much trouble. From the gorgeous fabrics, plush pillows and luxe bed linens, to the authentic wooden furnishings and hand-picked local art, Carolyn's eye for detail and good taste are evident everywhere, and provide just the right balance between necessity and luxury. Rooms are oversized with traditional four-poster beds, open bathrooms with walk-in showers and plenty of space to lounge. Delicious meals produced using fresh, local ingredients and locally-caught fish and crustaceans (the crab and lobster in this part of the world are superb), can either be served in your room or poolside, and you can eat what you like when you like. Nothing is set in stone at Blue Kite, and some of the island's best kitesurfing is just a few metres away. NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUwww.bluekitekalpitiya.com

KALPITIYA


MARRAKECH

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ROYAL MANSOURMorocco is one of the most diverse countries in the world, touching both the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea, with a fascinating culture descended from European, Berber, Arab and African influences. With its sweeping desert, dramatic mountains, colourful medinas, vibrant souks and luxurious hotels, Morocco is a destination that is on pretty much everybodys bucket list. Marrakech - a former imperial city steeped in history, abundant with architectural gems - is now home to the exquisite Royal Mansour, located in its heart. A design masterpiece, the hotel skilfully blends its ancestors heritage with architecture echoing its homeland, together with native artisan craftsmanship and modern amenities, creating a truly unique and prestigious vacation address. Comprising 53 riads - each of one to four bedrooms - all guests at Royal Mansour enjoy private accommodation which spans three floors. Riads range in size from a one-bedroom Superior of 150m2, to the 850m2 three-bedroom Prestige and on to the huge, sprawling Grand Riad of four bedrooms, akin to a Moroccan palace. At the centre of every riad, on the ground floor, is an interior courtyard leading to a living room, bar and outdoor patio. Larger riads also feature a dining room, swimming pool, steam room and hammam. The private rooms of each riad - the bedrooms and bathrooms - are located on the first floor, whilst roof terraces boast a private plunge pool and fireplace under a traditional Moroccan tent, to a backdrop of views over the medina, gardens or snow-covered Atlas Mountains. Lavish silks and brocades, plus carefully placed local art, give each riad its own unique identity. Gastronomy plays an important role at Royal Mansour, with three distinctive restaurants entrusted to renowned three Michelin-starred chef, Yannick Allno. Each outlet offers a different culinary journey, whether modern dining, redefined local cuisine or a French feast. KALIA MICHAELIDESwww.royalmansour.com

PRIZE

WORTH

EUR 2,600

A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT SAN CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKIWIN

Spend two nights in splendid Venice, staying at the palatial San Clemente in a lagoon view Grand Deluxe Room, complete with a pair of Aperol Spritz sun-downer cocktails at Garden Bar on your first evening, breakfast each morning at Insieme, and a three-course gourmet dinner for two at Acquerello including wine pairing. To enter this prize draw, email your contact details (name, city, email and mobile number) to [email protected]. Prize draw entrants will be added as subscribers to The Cultured Traveller's mailing list. The draw will take place on 31 May 2016 and the winner will be notified first week of June 2016. This prize can be used until 31 December 2016, subject to room availability. Rest assured The Cultured Traveller will not share your contact details with third parties.

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SAN CLEMENTE PALACE KEMPINSKI La Serenissima casts a spell over visitors like few other cities in Europe. Countless myths and stories abound about Venice, and the lagoon city has been the star of numerous books and movies. Ten minutes away from Piazza San Marco by boat, is the private island of San Clemente, filled with four acres of lush parkland, intimate gardens, historic courtyards, a stunning 12th century church and a sprawling former monastery which is now home to a deluxe Kempinski hotel. San Clemente Palace is the perfect base from which to explore the famous city, and retreat back to after a day amongst the throngs of tourists, to your own personal haven of splendour, decadence and peace. Public spaces are opulently adorned with luxe silks, lavish brocades and Murano chandeliers, whilst three restaurants provide a selection of on-site dining options. Guests start the day with breakfast at Insieme, located in the hotel's picturesque inner courtyard complete with ancient well. In the heart of the park - beside the swimming pool which is the hotels life and soul during the summer months - La Dolce is Venetian resort living personified, serving classic Mediterranean fare and pizzas from a traditional wood-fired oven. At elegant fine dining restaurant Acquerello, modern gastronomic delights and Italian haute cuisine sit side-by-side on the menu, and diners mangiare to a backdrop of breathtaking Piazza San Marco views. Equipped with a hotel-prepared gourmet picnic basket, guests can also stroll around the island and find a romantic spot to dine al fresco, surrounded by established cypresses, blooming hydrangea and dozens of lime trees, radiating their sweet, intoxicating scent in June and July. 190 rooms and suites boast views of the park, Venice skyline, lagoon or lido. Wide, spacious corridors and vaulted cloisters lead to guest ac-commodations decorated in a classic style with warm, calming colours, high ceilings lending an air of grandness. Situated next to the kids club and La Dolce restaurant and bar, the Giardini Suite is a private holiday chalet of almost 100m2, consisting of two separate sleeping areas, two bathrooms, a shared lounge and its own private garden. Located in the monastery's former laundry is the hotel's largest suite at 164m2, San Clemente, with wooden beamed ceilings, state-of-the-art gadgetry and a huge tub with a rather splendid view. By combining the San Clemente Suite with seven adjoining suites in the same building, an exclusive private palazzo - completely separate from the hotel - can be reserved for a family, wedding party or pop star and entourage, complete with a dedicated pier for yachts of up to 35 metres.NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOUwww.kempinski.com/en/venice/san-clemente-palace-kempinski

VENICE

We are honoured and privilegedto be ranked

No. 25 on

Open DailyLunch 11.30 A.M. to 3 P.M. | Dinner 6 P.M. to 11 P.M.

011 234 CRAB (2722) | www.ministryofcrab.com

Please contact us at [email protected] as early as possible to avoid disappointment.

Closed on Poya Days:April 22nd, May 21st, June 20th, July 6th, July 20th, August 18th, September 16th

October 16th, November 14th & December 14th

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'm a fan of India and particularly enjoy the extremes of colour, sights, sounds and scents. Perhaps because my day-to-day life is largely played-out in cities, I simply adore the brightness, chaos, serenity, delicacy, and the

good, bad and ugly of being in India. And despite what any brochure or tour operator might tell you, there is often a lot of ugly when visiting any country that is still developing and finding its feet. Travelling to a country in this part of the world is an assault on all the senses, but for those ready to appreciate new things and absorb different experiences,

there is nothing quite like visiting India for the vacation of a lifetime. For those not so adventurous, less travelled and perhaps a little time pressured, Sri Lanka is a much better option. In two words, Sri Lanka is India light. It's more personal, more affectionate and a lot less drama. Invariably this is because Sri Lanka's a small nation - no bigger than Ireland - with a population of barely 20 million, compared to more than one billion in India, rendering the Indian Ocean island infinitely more intimate and exclusive. That the country relies so heavily on tourism also has a lot to do with

During the past two millennia, there has barely been a century in Sri Lankas tumultuous past, when the country wasnt occupied, invaded or ravaged by war, yet its people have maintained their dignity, drive and ingenuity.


the friendly disposition of its people. Its much easier to travel to Sri Lanka. Visas are cheaper and obtaining one is less hassle. Tourist transactions generally go more smoothly, best-laid plans tend to pan out, hotels almost always deliver and planes generally leave on time, with Sri Lankas national flag carrier leading the way. But like many South Asian countries - where the wealth is concentrated in the capital and much of the rest of the country lives a much more basic life - of course Sri Lanka has its social extremes. There are the rich, middle classes and poor, and then there are the downright destitute, but no holidaymaker can change this - no matter how many times one visits - and so its recommended that travellers pre-prepare and try to accept a destinations social status quo before leaving home.

When it comes to scenery and culinary experiences, Sri Lanka is one of the most beautiful countries I've visited and has some of the best food to have passed my lips (Im not a fan of spicy foods, yet have always managed to leave a few kilos heavier), and Sri Lankans are some of the most charming people I've encountered on any trip. From the very first time I visited the island nation a few years ago, I

developed a fondness for Sri Lanka and its people that I cannot entirely explain. During the past two millennia, there has barely been a century in Sri Lankas tumultuous past, when the country wasnt occupied, invaded or ravaged by war; yet its people have maintained their dignity, drive and ingenuity, and are especially kind to tourists. Perhaps this explains my affection for the country. Its almost certainly a trait which sets the island apart from many other South Asian holiday destinations. Sri Lankans are warm, industrious and polite, always willing to help, and keen to

keep abreast of trends and new technology. Nothing showcases this more succinctly, than Colombo-based Pick Me, which cleverly brings

together tuk-tuks, mini taxis (tiny cars) and cabs in one convenient app, making hailing a tuk-tuk in Colombo a hugely less traumatising experience than anywhere else in Asia. Sri Lanka caught on to tourism a long time ago, became tourist savvy earlier than India, and has since become one of the most popular destinations in the Asia Pacific region, not least due to the island's relatively easy accessibility from the rest of the world. But to date, most international visitors have tended to land at Bandaranaike Airport, swiftly exit the city limits of Colombo, and head to

Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing

Asian warmth with international influences to create a humming city that is positively booming.

SAMBODHI CHAITHYA TEMPLE


the islands seaside resorts without giving the capital a thought. I was as guilty of this as anyone else until I spent a few nights in Colombo six months ago (after a beach holiday) and discovered - much to my surprise - a thriving, captivating, multi-faceted metropolis with tons of charisma.

Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with international influences to create a humming city that is positively booming with new businesses and entrepreneurial start-ups. Although reclaiming its 19th century nickname, 'the garden city of the East', is still a little way off (theres barely any grass on the city centres renowned Galle Face Green), Colombo is now a must-see stop in Sri Lanka and has become a worthy destination in its own right, for its fascinating heritage, colonial monuments, super shopping, culture at every turn and hospitable locals, together with some of Asias best restaurants, all encompassed in a bustling city with a town-like charm.

No city break can happen without a decent place to rest your

head, and Colombo has an abundance of independent, boutique, privately owned and historic hotels to choose from. When well-known high-end chains like Shangri-La and Grand Hyatt are busy building huge five-star hotels, its a clear indication that a citys fortunes are definitely on the rise. Shangri-Las new 33-storey 543-room Colombo hotel is due to open in 2017, and will also feature more than 400 luxury apartments in a separate tower of 50 floors. Meanwhile Grand Hyatts 47-storey Colombo outpost of 475 guestrooms is destined to be the tallest in the city, set right

on the citys Indian Ocean seafront. The Cultured Travellers lodgings of choice in Colombo were the iconic and lovingly-restored Galle Face Hotel,

quite possibly one of the most captivating and magical hotels Id ever had the pleasure to reside in. Like stepping back into romantic, colonial times - when the country was known as Ceylon - waking every morning to the sound of the sea outside my window, gently reminded me exactly where I was and set me up perfectly for the days of exploration ahead. Cities situated on the seas edge have a way of beguiling visitors, and the allure of a hotel set on top of the ocean is even harder to resist. Galle Face Hotel oozes nostalgia from every brick, and I couldnt have wished for a

The Cultured Travellers lodgings of choice in Colombo were the iconic and lovingly-restored Galle

Face Hotel, quite possibly one of the most captivating and magical hotels Id ever had the

pleasure to reside in.

GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLE ARCADE INDEPENDENCE SQUARE

DUTCH HOSPITAL

more enigmatic and hospitable base for my long weekend in the city.

Unlike many other Asian destinations, Sri Lanka can genuinely lay claim to being a year-round holiday destination. Whilst the average temperature in Colombo rarely varies +/- 5 degrees, the city experiences daytime humidity in excess of 70% all year, rising to around 90% during monsoon season. So, despite my original intentions to discover the city from a tuk-tuk to fully absorb the citys streets, I was well-advised (by the hotel) to explore Colombo from the back of an air-conditioned vehicle with an experienced local at the wheel. Thank god I heeded the hotels advice there was so much to see in Colombo, it would have been impossible to visit as much as I did without my trusty driver and comfy ride. Some of the citys sights which you simply must see, include Independence Square, the sacred Hindu temple of Sri Ponnambalam Vanesar Kovil, the old Colombo Dutch Hospital complex, and the striking red and white Jami Ul-Alfar Mosque. Also well worth a visit, and not on the usual tourist trail, is the stunning 1950s temple of Sambodhi Chaithya, built atop two huge, intersecting concrete arches on Chaithya Road, close to the port, just past the lighthouse. Its said to have been built so high so that the stupa can be seen by sailors at sea. Climbing its 300 steps is a little tiring in the humidity, but the view from the top is spectacular and the detailed Buddhist murals - which cover the inner walls of the stupa - are quite beautiful.

The best time to shop in Colombo is in the morning before it gets hot, or mid-late afternoon. Either way there is a tremendous variety of stores, boutiques, markets and designer shops around the city, to spend your holiday cash. The 17th century colonial architecture of the old Dutch hospital has been renovated to provide a magnificent setting for upmarket dining and shopping, at its core the renowned Ministry Of Crab, which has multiple sittings every day to accommodate the vast numbers of diners who visit this hugely popular restaurant to feast on Sri Lankan lagoon crabs (see TASTE section). Across town, Arcade Independence Square - converted from a collection of renovated white colonial buildings - is a spacious,


COMMEMORATION HALL

Halfway up the island's west coast and home to around six million people, in recent years Colombo has emerged as a cosmopolitan metropolis, fusing Asian warmth with

international influences to create a humming city that is positively booming.

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scene is cosmopolitan. A number of international cuisines are readily available in the city - including Japanese, French, Italian and Chinese - with two of Asias 50 Best Restaurants located in the Sri Lankan capital. With such a huge choice of quality eateries - as well as street food, authentic local restaurants and pavement cafs - youll never go hungry in Colombo. And whilst nightlife was pretty much all but absent a few years ago in Colombo, some happening nightspots have recently popped up, creating the beginnings of a late night party scene, so theres always somewhere to go if you want to sip cocktails or have a bit of a boogie until the early hours.

With so much to see, do, buy and savour, the fast-growing, characterful and energetic city of Colombo provides an ideal location to spend a long weekend exploring its many facets, or spend three or four nights at the start or end of your Sri Lankan adventure uncovering its abundant jewels. Be sure not to bypass the charismatic Sri Lankan capital next time you visit its enchanting motherland.

deluxe mall which houses a variety of restaurants and boutiques, surrounded by expanses of greenery. This is a lovely part of the city to spend an afternoon, taking in the splendid architecture of Commemoration Hall, adjacent to the arcade, whose design is based on the magnificent royal audience hall in Kandy, just over 100 km away.

One hundred years ago Sri Lankas capital used to be a lush garden city. But whilst palms and botanical gardens may not be so plentiful in the Colombo of today, the legacies of its colonial roots are still very much intact along its boulevards, many of them delicately shaded, making for delightful early evening walks. Even oft traffic congested Galle Road - bordered on one side by large hotel complexes and on the other by Galle Face Green and the ocean - can make for a pleasant stroll, before the first cocktail of the night at Travellers Bar at Galle Face Hotel.

It would be an understatement to say Colombos restaurant

GALLE FACE HOTELBuilt in 1864 and recently restored back to its former glory, Colombos historic Galle Face Hotel, is the first choice of lodgings for cultured travellers visiting the Sri Lankan capital, and is almost certainly the citys best address. Its combination of history, luxury, modern conveniences, friendly staff, restaurants and bars, together with an enviable position on the edge of the Indian Ocean, make for an award winning hospitality combination. Marry this with a range of deluxe rooms, opulent suites and the hotels city centre location, and you have the makings of an unforgettable stay experience in Colombo.Read about The Empress Suite at Galle Face Hotel on page 56 of this issue.www.gallefacehotel.com

STAY

IMAGE COURTESY OF GALLE FACE HOTEL

SRI PONNAMBALAM VANESAR KOVILThis breathtaking, sacred Hindu temple - remarkably detailed and highly revered - located in the centre of Colombo, is unique in that it's constructed entirely of granite. Devotees visit from across Sri Lanka to pray here to Lord Shiva.JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUEOne of the oldest mosques in Colombo, this striking red and white structure - located in the heart of a busy downtown shopping area - was designed in 1908 by H. L. Saibo Lebbe, and is well worth seeing in the flesh for its intricate and boldy contrasting patterns.NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COLOMBOThe largest museum in the country - which inhabits a vast, splendid colonial building - was founded in 1877 by Sir William Henry Gregory, the British Governor of Ceylon at the time, and houses many of Sri Lanka's national treasures and grand regalia.VIHARAMAHADEVI PARKThe city's oldest and largest public space, provides a beautiful and peaceful respite in the heart of the bustling metropolis, for residents to stroll among flowering trees, tranquil ponds and historic monuments.GANGARAMAYA BUDDHIST TEMPLEThe striking architecture of this unique and beautiful temple - which incorporates Sri Lankan, Thai, Indian and Chinese influences - is one of the most important and revered places of Buddhist worship in Colombo.

SEE

JAMI UL-ALFAR MOSQUEIMAGE BY NICHOLAS CHRISOSTOMOU

MINISTRY OF CRABProbably Sri Lanka's most famous, and one of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, celebrity chef Dharshan Munidasas second eatery (co-owned with cricketing legends Mahela Jayawardene and Kumar Sangakkara), is known for celebrating the countrys famous lagoon crab, which is held in particularly high regard in Singapore. Ministry of Crab is the first restaurant in Sri Lanka dedicated to serving the islands export quality crabs. Booking in advance is essential since Ministry of Crab is always busy. www.ministryofcrab.comCAF FRANAISNestled on a pretty pedestrian street in the heart of Colombo's central business district, this superb all day caf, bar, wine cellar and restaurant venue, serves the best French bistro-style cuisine in the city, to a backdrop of great music, fine wines, tasty cocktails and quality champagnes, delivered by super-professional staff in chic yet warm and comfortable surroundings. www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.comSUGAR BISTRO & WINE BARThis modern culinary and drinking meeting place serves hearty dishes from around the world, complete with a good international wine list, and is conveniently located at the entrance to Crescat Boulevard mall, in the heart of Colombo's shopping district, right across the street from Galle Face Hotel. www.sugarcolombo.com/sugar-bistro-wine-bar/KAEMA SUTRALocated on the ground floor of Independence Square Arcade, and co-owned by Sri Lankan international film actress, Jacqueline Fernandez, Kaema Sutra serves contemporary Sri Lankan dishes with a modern take on flavours, in a beautiful, airy colonial dining room. Try the restaurant's famous gourmet egg hoppers, and the boneless goat curry is delectable.www.kaemasutra.comTHE 1864This much-celebrated fine dining restaurant and wine cellar serves exquisite, modern European cuisine in highly civilised, spacious surroundings, prepared by executive chef, Adam Gaunt-Evans. The "Land and Sea" main course of green curry lamb cutlet and Trincomalee Barramundi, served with up-country vegetables, is exceptional. www.gallefacehotel.com/the-1864.phpNIHONBASHIWithout doubt the best restaurant in Colombo, and one of Asia's 50 Best, Dharshan Munidasa's temple to Japanese cuisine, has been open for more than two decades and will no doubt continue to attract customers for another 20 years, so consistently high is the quality of the food. The simplicity of Nihonbashis dishes highlights the excellent ingredients used, eight different private dining rooms cater for parties of 2 to 22 and eating at Nihonbashi is always an occasion. www.nihonbashi.lk

TASTE

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IMAGE COURTESY OF MINSTRY OF CRAB

IMAGE COURTESY OF CAF FRANAIS

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TRAVELLER'S BARGrab an armchair, listen to the sound of the waves crashing a few metres away, feel the sea breeze on your skin, and sip an expertly prepared cocktail, in the sophisticated surroundings of Galle Face Hotel's historic Traveller's Bar - one of the best places in Colombo to start the evening. www.gallefacehotel.com/travellers-bar.phpON14Visit modern, funky hotel, OZO Colombo, for a sundowner cocktail at its hip 14th floor rooftop lounge, ON14, and watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean from one of the best vantage points in the city. www.ozohotels.com/colombo-srilanka/CAF FRANAISThis venue is so good we had to include it in both the Taste and Sip sections. By night, Caf Franais morphs into an upscale wine bar, where - especially at weekends - Colombo's fashionistas and style-conscious set descend to sip cocktails and gently boogie to sophisticated tunes provided by a rotating line-up of DJs. www.cafefrancaisbypourcel.com41 SUGARLocated within the site of the Gymkhana Club, which dates back to colonial times, this stylish rooftop venue boasts an excellent bar, huge range of spirits, superb wine list and the friendly service is lightning fast. Perfect for digestifs after dinner or pre-club cocktails. www.sugarcolombo.com/41sugar/SILKBy far the best nightclub in town, this extremely popular late night spot boasts superb music provided by local and international DJs, seating which can be pre-booked and a state-of-the-art sound system. www.sugarcolombo.com/club-silk/

SIP

BAREFOOTEverything for sale in Barefoot is about good design and made in Sri Lanka, either by workers at home or by artists and craftsmen. There are no factories and no production lines; each Barefoot worker is responsible for the quality of his or her final product. Barefoot's gorgeous fabrics are bright, colourful and hardwearing, and weaved by hand in small workshops, most of which are located in the countryside just outside Colombo. Clothes, bags, household linen and toys made from Barefoot textiles are perfect to take-home or gift to loved-ones. www.barefootceylon.comODELContaining numerous concessions and selling everything from exotic sarees and Sri Lankan gifts to designer clothing and kiddies toys, Odel at Alexandra Place, is a giant, one-stop department store - comprising more than 30,000 sq ft. of shopping possibilities - including a funky al fresco foodcourt - The Boulevard - which is a great place to pit stop for a gelato, fresh juice or caffeine fix to keep your energy levels topped-up to get through the store's many departments. www.odel.lk/odel-storesL'ATELIER TOUCHOwned and managed by two of Colombo's most fashionable ladies - Catherine Obrenovic and Heidy Rampinelli - Sri Lanka's newest upscale women's fashion boutique, L'Atelier Touch retails an inspiring collection designed to create a contemporary chic and elegant European look. www.facebook.com/lateliertouche.lkLAKSALASince this state owned gift and souvenir retailer was established in 1982, Laksala has been retailing a wide and eclectic blend of items at reasonable prices, ranging from teas and spices to furniture, colourful batik ware and a large selection of art, crafts and giftware, plus a wide selection of traditional Sri Lankan gems and jewellery. The Laksala store at Colombo's National Museum is the biggest branch in the city.www.laksala.gov.lk

SPEND

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IMAGE COURTESY OF BAREFOOT

The Empress SuiteGalle Face Hotel

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Upper SuiteThe Upper House

Perched on a plateau two thousand metres above sea level facing the plunging gorges and dramatic rock formations of Omans Green Mountain, Alila Jabal Akhdar has been designed to sit in perfect harmony with its breathtaking location. This unique destination is a sanctuary dedicated to the peace and splendour of the mountain and the serenity it has to offer.

As temperatures drop the summer haze clears and immaculate blue sky days are followed by crystal clear nights awash with the brightest stars. Take advantage of the perfect winter climate and make a luxuriously spacious suite your home from which to explore the beautiful and fascinating interior regions of the Sultanate. Or simply unwind in the elegant haven of Spa Alila and indulge in a culinary experience which embraces the best of Omani and international cuisine.

For reservations email: [email protected] us on www.facebook.com/alilajabalakhdarwww.al i lahote ls .com

TAKING LUXURY TO NEW HEIGHTS

More than one and a half centuries after dbuting on Colombo's Indian Ocean seafront, Sri Lanka's hospitality grande dame is positively thriving - after a major refurb - under the expert stewardship of British General Manager, Antony Paton. The delicate and thoughtful restoration program took more than ve years to complete, but was very much worth the wait, bringing into the 21st century 72 rooms and suites in the hotel's north wing, bars and restaurants, Galle Faces imposing lobby, plus two beautiful ballrooms, all of which were overhauled and sensitively returned to their original architectural grandeur, at the same time introducing contemporary conveniences and modern technologies whilst not compromising the unique feel and history of the building. A new ocean-view 25-metre executive lounge was also added - The Long Room - for VIP and suite guests. Overall, the tenderly executed renovation gave birth to a completely refreshed stay experience, reignited a bygone era, rejuvenated a national monument and introduced an iconic hotel to a whole new generation of cultured travellers. It's rare to nd such a charming place to

Built during colonial rule when Sri Lanka was known as Ceylon, Galle Face Hotel has been part of the nations heritage - and at the epicentre of the country's capital - since 1864. It was then that four British entrepreneurs saw an opportunity to oer upmarket lodgings to the travelling elite, who had identied the island as a tropical destination and were visiting in steadily increasing numbers, especially from Europe.

The hotel started its life as a much smaller Dutch villa called Galle Face House, borrowing its name from the vast green along the coast in front of it, which back then included a racecourse and promenade. Built one section at a time over the next thirty years as land became available, GFH (as it is aectionately known by many) was for several years the oldest hotel east of Suez. Colombo's hospitality landmark predates Bangkok's Mandarin Oriental built in 1876, Mumbai's Taj Mahal built in 1903, Singapore's Raes built in 1910 and Hong Kong's Peninsula built in 1928. In fact, Galle Face Hotel was operational almost a quarter of a century before Conrad Hilton was even born.

Ceylon. Lipton made all necessary arrangements for Her Majesty, who was accommodated in special apartments at Galle Face Hotel. The Empress and her entourage remained in residence for seven weeks. Given the palatial surroundings of The Empress Suite its not hard to see why she stayed so long. A majestic dining area - at the centre of which two glittering crystal chandeliers hang over a huge oval marble table - is separated from the regal lounge by two pairs of stately pillars. Tall doors from the lounge open out onto a vast terrace - facing Galle Face Green - large enough to host cocktails for 100 guests and occupying the entire roof of the hotels charismatic carriage porch underneath, now beautifully restored and ready to welcome vehicles arriving for another 150 years. The suite comprises three, huge high-ceilinged bedrooms, sprawling balustraded balconies, oversized bathrooms and a half-kitchen accessed from the hall outside, so the cosseted inhabitants are not disturbed when room service is delivered. The master bath is a beautifully crafted exercise in chic, contemporary design - all Italian marble, matt walls, black wooden oors and delicate lighting - skillfully juxtaposing the suites adjacent grand salon with a dash of slick, modern living: the walk-in shower big enough for four, the freestanding bath a couples delight and the marble sink counter stretching to more than three metres. Lavish, damask curtains draping down from the ceilings abound at every turn. The armchairs in the lounge are so deep you sit into them rather than on them. Cushions are so plentiful and pillows so plush that once seated you may never get up. So deluxe is the level of comfort, that for the best part of a day and night I found it nigh on impossible to leave the suite, ordering both lunch and dinner to be delivered, and curling-up on the sofa when darkness fell, utterly oblivious to the noise of the tuk-tuks clamoring outside. I could have stayed for days. Im envious that Empress Eugnie got to stay for seven weeks.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in The Empress Suite in February 2016.

In April and May 2016 the average nightly rate for the three-bedroom Empress Suite is USD 3,500 inclusive of breakfast, airport transfers and taxes.

THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 1886 THE GALLE FACE HOTEL IN 2016

rest your head, which exudes class, quality, warmth and calm in one uniquely characterful building. Service is delivered with genuine kindness and grace, and the sta repeatedly go out of their way - obviously proud of their historic workplace - to ensure that guests have a memorable stay and leave with fond memories.

It takes a good day or so - after checking-in - to settle into the rhythm of Galle Face Hotel, but once youre in the swing of things its very hard to tear yourself away, and I can understand why so many visitors became long-stay guests during the hotels fascinating past. Numerous renowned authors found Galle Face to be an inspiring and tranquil place to pen their thoughts, including Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Mark Twain and Anton Chekhov. Stars of the glorious celluloid era - including Alec Guinness, Ursula Andress and Laurence Olivier, and more recently Scarlett Johansson - have all found peace within the walls of GFH away from their hectic globetrotting lifestyles. Somewhat unsurprisingly, royalty and statesmen from all over the world have also stayed, including Indira Gandhi, Prince Philip - Duke of

Edinburgh, Emperor Hirohito of Japan and Richard Nixon. In fact, Prince Philips rst car - a 1935 model Standard Nine - now enjoys pride of place in the hotels in-house museum, which is a delightful place to while away an hour learning about Galle Faces riveting history.

Possibly the largest hotel suite in Sri Lanka, The Empress Suite, is named after the last French Empress, Eugnie de Montijo, as she became known in France. Eugnie rst met her future husband, President Louis-Napolon Bonaparte, at a reception at the Elyse Palace. On 29 January 1853, Eugnie married Emperor Napolon III of France in a civil ceremony at the Tuileries Palace, followed by a much grander aair the next day at France's most important cathedral, Notre Dame. It was Eugnie - as Empress of France - who formally inaugurated the Suez Canal in 1859, which opened a gateway to travellers from Europe visiting Asia. Some years later, when she was in her eighties, the Empress sent word to Sir Thomas Lipton - the world famous tea merchant - that she wished to visit


www.gallefacehotel.com

Ceylon. Lipton made all necessary arrangements for Her Majesty, who was accommodated in special apartments at Galle Face Hotel. The Empress and her entourage remained in residence for seven weeks. Given the palatial surroundings of The Empress Suite its not hard to see why she stayed so long. A majestic dining area - at the centre of which two glittering crystal chandeliers hang over a huge oval marble table - is separated from the regal lounge by two pairs of stately pillars. Tall doors from the lounge open out onto a vast terrace - facing Galle Face Green - large enough to host cocktails for 100 guests and occupying the entire roof of the hotels charismatic carriage porch underneath, now beautifully restored and ready to welcome vehicles arriving for another 150 years. The suite comprises three, huge high-ceilinged bedrooms, sprawling balustraded balconies, oversized bathrooms and a half-kitchen accessed from the hall outside, so the cosseted inhabitants are not disturbed when room service is delivered. The master bath is a beautifully crafted exercise in chic, contemporary design - all Italian marble, matt walls, black wooden floors and delicate lighting - skillfully juxtaposing the suites adjacent grand salon with a dash of slick, modern living: the walk-in shower big enough for four, the freestanding bath a couples delight and the marble sink counter stretching to more than three metres. Lavish, damask curtains draping down from the ceilings abound at every turn. The armchairs in the lounge are so deep you sit into them rather than on them. Cushions are so plentiful and pillows so plush that once seated you may never get up. So deluxe is the level of comfort, that for the best part of a day and night I found it nigh on impossible to leave the suite, ordering both lunch and dinner to be delivered, and curling-up on the sofa when darkness fell, utterly oblivious to the noise of the tuk-tuks clamoring outside. I could have stayed for days. Im envious that Empress Eugnie got to stay for seven weeks.

Nicholas Chrisostomou stayed in The Empress Suite in February 2016.

In April and May 2016 the average nightly rate for the three-bedroom Empress Suite is USD 3,500 inclusive of breakfast, airport transfers and taxes.

thing to turn them into a club. We have quite an eclectic mix of members from Sam Smith and Tom Hardy, to Barbara Windsor and Paloma Faith.

Who has been the most perfectly-behaved celebrity guest in one of your clubs or restaurants?David Beckham is always an absolute gentleman with the staff, fellow members and guests, but the award has to go by a whisker to Prince Harry.

Tell us about your new private members' club, the Devonshire Club, due to open shortly in the City of London?Devonshire Club is due to open mid-June this year, so we have been quite frantic sorting everything. Its about time the City treated itself to a proper Mayfair club. The City of London has changed so much over the last few years and its now a vibrant 7-day environment. As the East End has become so eclectically charged, this has begun to pour into the City, and in the next few years you will see a massive enhancement of the offerings. Devonshire Club will be part of that catalyst for change. Our club has 68

bedrooms, a large brasserie, private dining rooms, a gym and a beauty salon, plus a wonderful hedged garden.

most successful members clubs. How did you achieve this?I was determined that The Arts Club, founded by Lord Leighton and Charles Dickens, would not die. Its closure was imminent when I forced my way in. I was doggedly determined that it would not fail. By stealth, I managed to change the constitution and bring in new investors and partners. Arjun Waney of Zuma, Roka and La Petite Maison, agreed to invest and to bring his experienced kitchen brigade; and Gary Landesberg, a property magnet, brought his considerable financial skills and became Chairman. The impetus of these partners was the catalyst for rapid change. Together we refurbished and relaunched the club - it became a Mayfair club for the international arts community.

What would you say are the most important ingredients to running a vibrant members club in London?The most important element is the building: it has to have character, as well as the infrastructure to support a vibrant club. Secondly, the Founding Members play a key role as they give the club its backbone and atmosphere.

Together with business partner Laurence Isaacson, you took over

L'Escargot a couple of years ago. What did you both see in this London dining institution?We heard whispers that LEscargot, Londons oldest French restaurant, was for sale and that a Russian group were interested to turn it into a Russian restaurant. Laurence had just come back to the UK for retirement - after having lived in New York - and talking over lunch, we both agreed that he was too young to retire and that he had another restaurant in him. Im a restaurant romantic and was keen for this establishment to live on. It pains me to see Chez Victor as a pizzeria, and A LEcu de France a shoe shop! We knew we could revive its fortunes - and working in Soho was a real draw for us.

L'Escargot opened in 1927 and was the first restaurant in the UK to serve fresh snails. Who supplies the restaurant's snails today and how do you like yours served?Our snails are reared at Credenhill Farm in Hereford. Richard Fishbourne, the owner, is passionate about his snails and ensures they are

reared in a natural, organic environment. They also supply Heston Blumenthals The Fat Duck of snail

could do the same work in a foreign country using a foreign language. My ambition was to become a receptionist at a five star hotel in Paris and I was delighted when eventually the Le Meurice hotel took me on in that role. I absolutely loved working in Paris and my love for Paris today is as strong as ever.

How did working in France contribute to your career?I worked very hard in Paris, holding down two jobs at once, and even though it was quite exhausting I proved to myself that I had stamina. The most important event in Paris was when I served HM King Hussein of Jordan at the Plaza Athne. I had met him during my time at The Dorchester, but in Paris I spoke to him much more frequently. One afternoon he said to me we have all been given roles to perform in this life, but we must remember that on the day of judgement, in the eyes of God, we are all equal. I have always kept that with me.

The London members club scene has exploded in the past few decades. Did you see this coming?No, I had no idea that the private club scene would explode in the way it has. It is highly competitive nowadays - in a way that it never

was - however I believe it still has a long way to go.

How did you get involved in Home House?My plans to further develop Simpsons-in-the-Strand, where I was MD, were rejected by our owners, The Savoy, and as a result I decided to do something else. A new private club seemed a good idea - somewhere grand like The Travellers, with great rooms and excellent food - but at the same time somewhere guests in T-shirts and (clean) jeans could come. I found Home House by chance while two of my chess friends, Tony Buzan and Raymond Keene, were lunching with Christopher Portman who proceeded to tell me about an empty building he owned. After much angst, that building became a private club. As for the dress code, we only had one rule, nudity discouraged!

Would you say that London is where the private members club was born?Yes, certainly - the oldest clubs in the world are in London, they started as coffee houses. Whites, Brookss, and Boodles are the oldest. Whilst clubs are opening up all over the world, some countries still find

the concept bizarre.

Under your stewardship as its MD, The Arts Club grew into one of London's

What lured you into a career in the catering and hospitality industry?Speaking to my father about a career, he told me that he didnt mind what I did, as long as I didnt go into catering - and I always did what my father told me!

Was there a lot of cooking in the Clivaz household when you were young?My mother was an excellent cook. She bought the Sophia Loren cookbook and made almost every recipe in it. As my father worked for British Airways, my parents used to travel a lot, and my mother was always coming back with recipes from far off lands. She was one of the first to cook pizza from scratch and we children were always asked to help with the cooking, which I loved.

Tell us about your first catering job.Having ignored my fathers advice, I entered the catering world. He had said that if I was to work in catering, I would have to start at the bottom as an apprentice chef. The matre chef at the Dorchester was a fellow Swiss friend, Eugene Kauer, so I got a job there. On my first day I was so excited. It was daunting joining a kitchen with 100 other chefs but so thrilling - and Ive never regretted it.

What was your experience of working with Anton Mosimann and would you care to share an anecdote?Anton Mosimann was among the first of the new

wave of chefs, along with Michel Gurard and Roger Verg, to develop a new lighter concept of cooking. He had worked in Japan and brought their work methods to his kitchen, including a calmness and intelligence. When Anton Mosimann approached the stove to cook, everybody stopped what they were doing to watch the master at work. If he asked for a whisk, there was a long line of chefs waiting to hand it to him, and as they passed the whisk from one to the other, each chef would polish the whisk, so that when it eventually reached him it was shinier than new. I remember an incident one day we were cooking a banquet for Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret. After the fish course, the matre d shouted at Mr Mosimann that HRH was waiting: Mosimann calmly turned to him and said, even princesses have to wait for perfection.

How would you say that Mosimann's skills as a chef compare to those of today's celebrity chefs?Celebrity chefs have their place in the media but there are few great chefs in any generation. Mosimann is without doubt one of the greatest chefs in the world today, so there is no comparison.

What promoted your move to Paris after your stint at the Dorchester?I moved to Paris because experience abroad is essential, but I also wanted to prove to myself that I

porridge fame. Personally I love them served traditionally with garlic and parsley, and, of course, ours are the best!

We understand that dogs are welcome at L'Escargot. Is there a special menu for pooches and what's your dog's favourite meal?In every establishment I have worked in, dogs have been welcome. I cannot understand why more places do not welcome them, not least since they are generally better behaved than many customers! Doris loves pigs ears, and once I even gave her pigs nose with parsley sauce as a special treat!

What is your favourite hotel in the world and why?I love the Oberoi Group. Every Oberoi I have stayed in has been magnificent. They are unparalleled in India, but Dubai and Mauritius are fantastic too. Otherwise it has to be Htel Costes in Paris: naughty, arrogant, decadent and above all else, sexy.

What prompted you to open Upstairs - the members club above L'Escargot - and what type of clientele does it attract?We had a number of smaller rooms above the restaurant and it seemed the natural

What will make Devonshire Club different to the multitude of other members clubs in London?Well, the location for a start. I remember people telling me that Home House was in the wrong location as it was North of Oxford Street - now look at Mary-le-Bone! Devonshire Club will be super chic, as we have designed everything with elegant women in mind. Its important, especially in the City, that women feel comfortable and are treated equally without being patronised. Naturally, we will be very business friendly, but we will not accept a sea of lap-tops - what I call lap-toppery will be banned. I am so excited about the new club - we have a great team and we will deliver a truly outstanding product.

Do you ever find it tiring hosting and entertaining guests and customers?It is one of the greatest joys and pleasures in my life to be able to meet so many fascinating people and to be allowed into their worlds. I LOVE hosting and always try to put other people first. Of course it can be frustrating if I want to go home early (I mean 9pm!) and just as Im about to leave someone walks in who I havent seen for ages and I have to stay with them for an hour or so - but it is worth it. The greatest host in London is Jeremy King, from the Wolseley Group. I admire him so much - his bonhomie is legendary. I have three other friends who are also great hosts: David Morgan-Hewitt at The Goring Hotel; Didier Garnier at Le Colombier, and Jason Phillips at Wiltons. We all love our job - so hosting is a real privilege. It is important that the front of house team receive recognition: chefs earn much of the limelight, but we need people to serve, and service must be seen as an art to be appreciated.

Where is your favourite place to vacation and do you actually switch off when you're away?My favourite place to switch off is in my garden. I am lucky to have a large garden in London which for the past 25 years I have tended organically. I encourage wildlife and many birds visit. Most recently, I saw a pair of jays, some wood peckers and a tiny wren; and every day the same robin comes to visit. Otherwise, give me a long stretch of beach and golden sand anywhere in the Indian Ocean.

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thing to turn them into a club. We have quite an eclectic mix of members from Sam Smith and Tom Hardy, to Barbara Windsor and Paloma Faith.

Who has been the most perfectly-behaved celebrity guest in one of your clubs or restaurants?David Beckham is always an absolute gentleman with the staff, fellow members and guests, but the award has to go by a whisker to Prince Harry.

Tell us about your new private members' club, the Devonshire Club, due to open shortly in the City of London?Devonshire Club is due to open mid-June this year, so we have been quite frantic sorting everything. Its about time the City treated itself to a proper Mayfair club. The City of London has changed so much over the last few years and its now a vibrant 7-day environment. As the East End has become so eclectically charged, this h

the cultured traveller, issue 10, april/may 2016

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