the clotherie fall 2010

A U T U M N 1 0 & W I N T E R 1 1 • I S S U E 1 2

K N I T S K N E W S

M I L I TA R Y M A C H I S M O

C H E C K I T O U T

I N T E R V I E W W I T H L E O N A R D O D I C A P R I O

N O T Y O U R F AT H E R ’ S C A D I L L A C

R E A C H F O R T H E B U B B L Y

“PERFECTING THE ART OF DRESSING WELL SINCE 1969”TM

Do it up right and you might make that budget bigger too

A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928

F A L L 2 0 1 0 & W I N T E R 2 0 1 1 T H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E

Welcome to the Autumn 2010 edition of The Clotherie Magazine.

First and foremost, we would like to thank each and every one of you, ourloyal customers, for your patronage and support.

This past spring/summer was an exciting time for The Clotherie. We werebestowed with two very prestigious awards: one of Esquire magazine’s“Best of Class” stores in the country (p. 8) and an honoree at MR magazinesUptown/Downtown 5-year reunion for top men’s specialty stores (p. 6).

So long summer heat — welcome fall, glorious fall! Autumn’s beautifulpalette of color has invaded our store’s newest selections. We welcome avisit from you soon to check out our fabulous fall fashions; great new looksto update your wardrobe. Absolutely stunning new menswear items fill theshop offering the latest modern menswear selections you expect to find atThe Clotherie.

Things are stretched. You’ve got a good job (thank heaven), but with ahouse, car and kids, it seems your salary’s always earmarked for their immediate needs. See page 32, our feature article,“Big Style, Small Budget.”

Listen to your casual clothes this season: What they’re saying is that we’ve all been going at things a bit too hard of late.It’s time to take the edge off; to sit back, appreciate what we have right now, and relax. Check out our “Soften Up” articleon page 44.

There’s plenty more in the following pages like fall’s new military influences, the new Cadillac CTS Coupe, celebrity get-away vacation spots, “heavy metal” watches, an interview with Leonardo DiCaprio–and much more. This is the most com-prehensive magazine we’ve ever sent out. Read and enjoy!

A special thanks to all of those who partner with us, locally and abroad, for helping make The Clotherie Magazine possi-ble. We encourage you to do business locally with each of the world-class companies represented in the pages of our falledition. The very best in customer service can be expected from The Clotherie and all our local partners.

With heartfelt thanks,

Greg Eveloff

In memory of Ann Antoniadis (wife of John, our head tailor) who lost her courageous battlewith breast cancer in April 2010, Mikki Eveloff will be walking in the 60-mile Susan G. Komen3-day for the Cure, November 12-14th in Phoenix, Arizona. Donations can be made in honorof Ann at The Clotherie or at www.the3day.org (see page 21 for additional information).

2 5 0 2 E . C A M E L B A C K R O A D , S U I T E 1 6 9 • P H O E N I X , A R I Z O N A 8 5 0 1 6 • T E L : 6 0 2 9 5 6 8 6 0 0 • W W W. T H E C L O T H E R I E . C O M

Cover: Ermenegildo Zegna

Table of Contents:Canali

Todd TuftsEditor in Chief, Publisher

Leslie C. SmithEditorial Director

Vence VidaArt Director

Stephen R. LewisCopy Editor

The Clotherie Magazine is published by

Tufts Communications. © 2010,

Tufts Communications. All rights reserved.

For information on localadvertising and

available editorial profilingfor local businesses

please contact Todd Tufts: Tufts Communications

1201 E. 5th StreetSuite 1009

Anderson, IN 46012Tel: 765-608-3081

Email: [email protected]

2502

E. CAMELBACK RD.

SUITE 169

PHOENIX, ARIZONA 85016

TEL: 602 956 8600

THECLOTHERIE.COM

3 Welcome from Greg Eveloff • 6 Out & About

8 The Clotherie Collections for Fall/Winter

10 The Clotherie Events • 12 Reach for the Bubbly

14 Heavy Metal • 18 Check It Out

22 Leonardo Di Caprio Interview

26 Jeff Shafer of Agave • 28 Class Getaway

30 Gary Bender, You’re Not in Kansas Anymore

32 Big Style, Small Budget • 34 Military Machismo

38 Knits Knews • 42 Culture by the Cup

44 Soften Up • 48 The New Cadillac CTS Coupe

photo cour t esy of pal z i ler i

The Clotherie Receives Honor

The Clotherie was honored at the Uptown/Downtown MR AWARDS

BANQUET at Gotham Hall in New York City, July 2010. MR Magazine,

the magazine for menswear retailers, recognized leading stores at this

annual gala event.

BEAT THE HEAT Trends Fashion Show

The 28th annual Beat The Heat Gala was held at The Arizona Biltmore

Resort on Saturday, September 25th, 2010 to a sell-out crowd. The event

which honors 10 Valley women for their outstanding civic and charitable

contributions, also honors an individual or corporation with a lifetime

achievement award. The Clotherie has participated in this event since it’s

inception with runway fashions that have wowed a crowd of more than 400

people. Proceeds from the event are given to The Trends Charitable Fund

and dispersed throughout the community to women and children in need.

Trends Magazine is the oldest society publication in the state of Arizona,

with a readership of more than 40,000 people.

Mikki & Greg Eveloff withBarbara Nast Saletan

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6the clotherie magazine

Out&About

Balancing serious performance with luxury in a very affordable package — the all-new CTS CoupeCadillac—setting another automotive benchmark. Pursue the benchmark of quality, style, and elegance.

Emotion on four wheels.

2011 CADILLAC CTS COUPE

7901 E. Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd.Scottsdale, AZ 85260480-483-4000www.legendscadillac.com

LegendsCadillac Saab

Western Region #1 Cadillac Dealership • Outstanding Customer Service

Paul [email protected]

Allen [email protected]

Charlie [email protected]

The Clotherie Honored as A-List Store

Esquire Magazine honored The Clotherie as one of the finest men’sspecialty stores in the country in the coveted Spring 2010 BlackBook. Esquire Magazine is renowned for its expertise, knowledge,and advice in men’s fashion for over 75 years. The Clotherie, cele-brating it’s 41st year, is proud to receive this prestigious award that“salutes the stores that stand the test of time.” Stop in and seewhy we’ve been recognized as one of the nation’s top retail desti-nations.

Check It Out...

The new CLOTHERIE WEBSITE at www.theclotherie.com for news, fashion trends, blogs and more.

Our new CLOTHERIE ONLINE STORE at www.theclotherie.com/store which features a wide selection of shirts,trousers, shoes, accessories, and more from your favorite designers.

Join us on FACEBOOK or follow us on TWITTER.

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News

The Clotherie Apparel Collections for Fall/Winter 2010

Gardeur

Gendarme Cologne

Geoff Nicholson Pocket Squares

Georg Roth L.A.

Grand Band Money Clips

Hush Puppies

Ibiza

International Laundry

Italo Ferretti

Jack Lipson

Jack Victor

John Smedley

Left Coast Tees

Masonʼs

Mezlan Shoes

Michael Toschi

Nat Nast

Agave

Alberto

Alden Shoes

Allegri

Angelo Nardelli

Arnold Zimberg

Auri Shoes

Baade II

Bill Lanvin Belts

Canali

Citizens of Humanity Jeans

Dion Neckwear

Donald Pliner

Ecco

Ermenegildo Zegna

Equilibrio

Eton Shirts

Pantherella

Pavone

Project E

Robert Comstock

Robert Graham

Robert Talbott

Rufus Sportshirts

Sand

Samuelsohn

Stichʼs Jeans

Trussini

Tulliani Belts

Tumi

Zanella

Zegna Sport

Z Zegna

Upcoming Trunk Shows

What is a Trunk Show? Trunk shows originated in theworld of fashion when designers or sales reps wouldarrive at the store or boutique with a “trunk full” ofclothes or accessories to present the newest collec-tions. Today, trunk shows are special events at storesand boutiques where clients can select merchandisefrom an exclusive collection by a particular designer. Itis an excellent opportunity to view and purchase itemsfrom a designer you may have never been witness tobefore!

Come join The Clotherie for our exciting trunk showsthis fall:

Friday, October 29th & Saturday, October 30th11am - 6pm

CANALI suits, sport jackets and trousers with Peter Schmid

11am - 6pmETON SHIRTS with Matt Becker

Saturday, November 13th11am - 5pm

AGAVE JEANS and sportswear

Saturday, November 20th11am - 5pm

NAT NAST with Barbara Nast Saletan & Ralph Odenberg

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EventsWhat’s Happening at The Clotherieand Biltmore Fashion Park?

As many of you know, we were supposed to be in themidst of a major remodel this summer, but the best laidplans “yada, yada, yada” as the saying goes. With cityapproval pushed back we would not have been able tooffer our wonderful selection of fall, winter, and springmerchandise to our valuable customers, so we decidedto push back our remodel to next July. It WILL happenand we are looking forward to a beautiful new store! Inthe meantime we are here with fabulous fall merchan-dise to fill your wardrobe needs and desires. We look for-ward to seeing you in the near future.

Biltmore Fashion Park, known as the crown jewel of cen-tral Phoenix, continues to evolve with a fresh retail andrestaurant mix. With the additon of Seasons 52 and RojoMexican Grill, the shopping center continues to pleasepalettes with 10 restaurant options and elevating itsstature as a true dining destination. Little Artika joinsthe shopping center in mid-October, offering “cool stufffor little humans,” spanning options from apparel andaccessories to furniture and décor. Elizabeth Arden RedDoor Spa, long-standing in it’s location at Bilmore, willrelocate in November with a state-of-the-art spa experi-ence welcoming guests as they face Camelback Road.

Looking for something to do on Friday nights? BiltmoreFashion Park is event central with Movies in the Park,7:30 pm now through December 17th (with the exceptionof Black Friday, in which no movie will be shown). Bringyour blankets, spread out on the Center Lawn, shop inthe stores and dine in the restaurants and then enjoy thecomplimentary movie series under the stars. Also joinBiltmore for Art in the Park from 5-8 pm on November 5and December 3. This in-store event series brings art,fashion, and food together in one place as you strollthroughout the center.

For more information, visit www.shopbiltmore.com andfor up-to-the-minute info follow on Facebook: face-book.com/shopbiltmore and Twitter: twitter.com/bil-morefp.

Happenings

b y t a y l o r e a s on

Of the true enigmas in the world – Stonehenge, The Pyramids, Macchu Picchu – may I add food and wine pairings? Sure,

it’s not as grandiose as aged, weathered ruins, but it’s as elusive as the Holy Grail, at least to the foodies amongst us. With

the popularity of pairings on Food Network, pairings prove quite the rage, but the problem is that Americans want the easy

fix. But it doesn’t work that way. Matching up foodstuffs with winestuffs is decidedly not a science. It’s a complex and deli-

cious art. I can only imagine the crusty B.S. of red-wine-with-red-meat derived out of this laziness. It’s sooo easy. I won-

der if the red with red myth originated after World War II, when American beef-producers had excess stock, and the French

had excess red wine. The two factions had lunch, made the pact, and a fallacy was born. Think about it.

OK, I admit there are some tried and true wine and food pairings, or WFPs, such as 1) foie gras and French Sauternes.

The creamy, deliciously fatty, salty and politically incorrect goose liver gets balanced out by the low-acid, luscious dessert

nectar the French so lovingly (and expensively) produce. 2) Tomato-based items with Italian Chianti. This country practi-

cally invented the tomato sauce, so it stands to reason that local wines match their local cuisine. Chianti’s tart earthiness

snuggles up nicely to the tomato’s acid and, poof, a perfect WFP is born. 3) Spicy food and off-dry riesling. Throw Indian,

Thai or Mexican food at a fruit-forward, slightly sweeter riesling, and the cilantro-curry-jalapeño fires will be calmed.

For all other situations, only basic tenets can apply and you can’t even say, for instance, all sauvignon blancs pair with

shellfish. A purist practicing this art should know that an extra ingredient (pepper or lime, for instance) can throw off the

flavor palette and subtle harmony. Also, each wine varietal can vary widely. Winemakers have umpteen tools at their dis-

posal — think oak, de-alcoholizing systems, fermentation options — so it’s like comparing my homemade marinara sauce

to my neighbor’s. Hell, my food never comes out the same way twice (peanut butter and jelly sandwich notwithstanding).

Add in the fruit differences in vintage and wine region, and you have an even bigger morass of disparity. Here are the gen-

eral guidelines -- experiment at will. First, balance the flavors of food and wine according to their intensity. For instance, a

full-bodied chardonnay might smother a delicate piece of white fish and a wimpy pinot noir couldn’t stand up to a slab of

meaty lamb. Second, the dominant flavor or sauce of a dish should determine the wine choice. Whatever shows up early

and shouts “Hello!” should be the influencing wine factor since that’s what will rule your mouth. Third, strive for contrasts

and complements. Rich, cream-based sauces call for something equally as decadent yet sharp, like a buttery California

chardonnay. But an earthy mushroom sauce poured over a grilled, fatty steak can complete the package with an earthy

Italian red.

Or, here’s an option… toss all that stuff and only remember this: Sparkling

wine pairs well with everything. Somehow, this high acidity juice

makes friends with all food, and most people. So, when in doubt

and you’re looking for that end-all, be-all culinary orgasm, reach

for the bubbly. It can be as grandiose as the Grand Canyon. µ

Taylor Eason is the wine columnist at Creative Loafing in Atlanta.

win

es

bubblyreach for the


natnast.com

metal mania b y C A R O L B E S L E R

HEAVY METALThe classic IWC Ingenieur is one of several

special editions marking the company’s 140th

anniversary. It is limited to 500 pieces.

PlatinumPlatinum is an elite, expensive metal,

often used for special-edition watches. Ithas the highest resistance to corro-

sion and tarnish, and will never chipor splinter. Even when platinum

scratches, the metal doesn’twear away, but is simply dis-placed. Platinum is precious notonly because of its beauty,durability, pliability and density,but because of its rarity. It is 30-times rarer than gold. The

world’s most important diamondsare set in platinum because of its

hardness and durability.

PalladiumPalladium has been used in jew-

elry off and on for decades – it wasfirst used when platinum wasdeclared a strategic metal for mil-itary use in 1939. A few years ago,jewelers and watchmakers redis-covered palladium as an idealsubstitute for nickel in white gold(nickel makes gold white, but it’s aproven allergen). As one of the fourplatinum group metals, palladium hasthe purity and luster of platinum and awhiter color. It is malleable and light-weight (palladium is 44% lighter than plat-inum), which makes it highly wearable andscratch resistance.

What’s in a watch case? From PVD to DLC, here is a glossary of materials used to house the workings of today’s watches.

Stainless SteelThe vast majority of watches today are

stainless steel, and the standard is 316Lsurgical steel. Basically, 316L steel is ironmixed with a small amount of carbon.Because it is non-allergenic, it is used forsurgical instruments. Its impermeablestrength makes it suitable for such formi-dable applications as nuclear reprocess-ing plants. It is also known as marinegrade stainless steel due to its strongresistance to chloride corrosion.

PVDPhysical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a

process that bonds a micron-thick layer ofcompounds to metal. The finish neverwears off. It is used in machinery and tool-ing to decrease friction wear on metalparts. It has also been used on transmis-sion gears and engine parts of FormulaOne cars. Most PVD is black, but theunderlying finish of the metal can affectthe hue – a bead-blasted base will pro-duce a dull, deep black appearance,whereas a rough brushed base may pro-duce a semi-glossy finish.

This edition of the Corum Admiral’s Cup

is black PVD coated and features a

vulcanized rubber crown protector and strap.


heavy metal

CeramicCeramic makes an ideal watch

case material because of severalamazing properties: It is tempera-ture resistant, hypo-allergenic,and will never rust, rot or scratch.And if you’re the James Bondtype, you will be pleased toknow it is also bullet proof– ceramic is used tomake vests that resistbullets from high cal-iber rifles. It is alsoused to make knifeblades that staysharper longer thansteel. Ceramic canbe infused with anycolor, and is blessedwith a silky texture thattakes a high polish.

DLCDLC, or Diamond-like Carbon

is emerging as a hot new watchcase material, giving tough-guytitanium a run for its money. Thesurface of a DLC watch is coatedwith something very much like syn-thetic diamond, giving it an incred-ible surface hardness (diamond isthe hardest substance known toman). DLC is nearly impossible toscratch. It is used on componentsin the engines of super sportmotorcycles, military equipmentand on implantable human heartpumps.

Titanium Titanium is the super metal of the watch industry. Originally used in the

aerospace industry, it is 30% stronger than steel and nearly 50% lighter –the catch is that it’s more expensive. It is highly corrosion-resistant; whenexposed to the atmosphere, titanium forms a tight oxide film that resists avariety of materials that can corrode other metals. It is especially resistantto salt water corrosion, which makes it ideal for diver’s watches.

The Panerai Luminor Marina

in titanium is one of several

titanium models made

by the brand.

The Cartier Santos 100

chronograph is treated with a

special amorphous DLC

coating, which will not show

contrasting color and is

fingerprint resistant.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master

Compressor Diving watch for ladies, with

a ceramic case and diamond-set bezel.


b y l e s l i e c . s m i t h


Check it outPlaid’s Triumphant Resurgence

Style goes in generational cycles: every so often, it takes a time warp back to revisitculture touchstones popularized two decades previous, when today’s 40-year-olds werein their 20-year-old prime. Not so surprising – who doesn’t enjoy revisiting their youth, ifonly for a moment? (We’re willing to bet those of you who lived through the 1970s justreceived a jolt of recognition upon reading the words “time warp.” For a split second, TheRocky Horror Picture Show played in its entirety through your heads.)

The early 1990s are thus receiving their due revival as we enter the twentyteens. Thisdoes not mean we’ve now got to go about as unwashed and heavily drugged as KurtCobain, the lead icon of that era; we will, however, borrow his shirt. Specifically, his plaidflannel shirt, a cheap-and-easy thrift-store score from Seattle’s lumberjack community.We will then take that 90s grunge plaid and spin it a dozen different ways, until it con-sumes this season, its colorful squares conquering the casualwear market, its black-and-white boxy patterns pushing pinstripes right off the suiting fabric map.

Yes, it does seem ironic that Nirvana’s anarchistic clothing of choice now informs soheavily on the business wardrobes of today. To quote from one of Kurt’s songs, “downer.”Let’s push that thought from our minds, though, and do a quick review.

Who’d have thought King Edward VII and Kurt Cobain had anything in common?

photos cour t esy of pal z i ler i

fash

ion


fash

ion

Glen plaid, a.k.a. glen check, a.k.a. glenurquhart plaid, a.k.a. Prince of Wales plaidor check, rules suits this fall and with goodreason. As you might be able to tell fromits multiplicity of names, this is a venera-ble material, first employed in the Scottishhighlands around Inverness and lateradopted by British sportsmen. (Thus the Pof W appellation which, contrary to somehistorians, refers to Victoria’s son EdwardVII, rather than his grandson theDuke of Windsor. Windsor, did,however, popularize the plaid inAmerica during his 1920s tour.)

The most formal of country-bred woolen weaves, glen plaidhas longbeen consid-ered officeacceptable;yet even so,its open-airantecedentsmake it seemf r i e n d l i e rand morea p p r o a c h -able to officec o n f r e r e sthan a hard-line pinstripeor navy blueserge. Itspattern con-sists of ac r o s s -hatched gridlaid over ahoundstoothbackground,all madefrom a com-mingling ofblack andw h i t ethreads thatread as grayfrom a dis-tance (quickm e n t a limage: PeeW e eH e r m a n ’ ssuit). Glen plaid can also come set with anoverplaid, or windowpane, of coloured rust,green or blue threads.

Given its overall gray tone, such a suit iseasily accessorized with most any kind ofcolored furnishing; it also lends itselfrather nicely to tonal black and white fur-nishings. With the windowpane version,wearers can play around with picking upthe shade of its thread within the pattern-ings of their tie or pocket square, or con-trasting a “cool” green or blue thread witha “warm” cream shirt.

Since man does not live by business-wear alone, you are going to have more funthis season fitting plaid-themed clothesinto your casual wardrobe. Sports shirtstrend toward grunge-inspired shadowplaids and box checks, both of which workwell with a pair of jeans or cords. Casualtrousers have caught the glen plaid bug,and look quite sophisticated when pairedwith a light-knit cardigan or vee-necked

sweater. In outerwear, you’llfind plenty of retro glen-checkwindbreakers and red-and-black buffalo check lumberjackets in stock. And, of course,this season’s sportcoats are

pr a c t i c a l l ywall-to-wallplaid.

About theonly pro-posed pieceswe can’tbring our-selves torecommendare tartankilts and golfpants inhuge, full-C l e v e l a n dc o l o r e dchecks. (Ifthe reasonswhy aren’tb l i n d i n g l yo b v i o u s ,please bookan immedi-ate appoint-ment withyour familydoctor orconsult ac o m p e t e n tanalyst.)

If hehad lived,Kurt Cobainwould quitelikely nothave appre-ciated main-

stream society’s current co-opting of hisfavorite grunge garb. Then again, his takeon fashion was always a bit shaky. Thiswas the man, after all, who sang, “Come asyou are – come doused in mud, soaked inbleach … as a trend, as a friend.”

To which we are tempted to respond,“With trends like that, who needs ene-mies?”

µ

The plaid tidings do not endthere, however. What if you, as so many designers are

doing these days, choose toadd another piece of plaid into

the mix – a box check or windowpane dress shirt, forinstance; a tartan tie, or a

pair of argyle socks?

This is a very stylish optionand one that will put you at

the head of your firm’s best-dressed list, so long as you

remember to vary the size ofthe checks, and perhaps pair a

light background plaid withone in a darker background.

Check it out


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ieJOIN THE CLOTHERIE AND THE PHOENIX SUNS TO RAISE MONEY FOR BREAST CANCER!

RAFFLE TICKETS SOLD AT THE CLOTHERIE TO BENEFIT THESUSAN G. KOMEN BREAST CANCER FOUNDATION

TICKETS SOLD FOR $25 each or 3 for $60

Raffle Drawing: November 10th....need not be present to win.

GRANDPRIZE! WIN 4 LOWER LEVEL PHOENIX SUNS TICKETS AND A HIGH-FIVE KID EXPERIENCE FOR YOURSON/DAUGHTER/GRANDCHILD (Age 6-12)!

This grand prize raffle includes 4 lower level seats to a Phoenix Suns home game (to beselected) along with the “High Five” Kid Experience. What is the “High Five KidExperience?” Your child/grandchild will get to sit on the Suns bench during the pre-gameand watch the Phoenix Suns warm-up. Then he/she will be brought to center court andintroduced to the crowd where he/she will have his/her picture taken with the Gorilla.He/she will also stand as the National Anthem is played and finally, as the starting line-up is introduced he/she will get to high five the Phoenix Suns players and be a true partof the team. He/she will also receive a complimentary t-shirt to wear during the game andto keep as a special souvenir.

We thank you for your support!

www.samuelsohn.com

a n i n t e r v i e w w i t h a m y l ong s do r f

o

Exclusive Interview withT H E C L O T H E R I E M A G A Z I N E

inte

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wDrug addiction. Child abuse. The poli-

tics of the diamond trade. Institutional cor-

ruption. Post-traumatic stress syndrome.

From early movies like "The Basketball

Diaries" and "This Boy's Life" to recent

hits "Blood Diamond," "The Departed"

and "Shutter Island," Leonard DiCaprio

has tackled his share of weighty issues.

With a starring role in the sober sci-fi

brain-teaser "Inception" and an upcom-

ing turn as the title G-Man in Clint

Eastwood's "Hoover" biopic,

DiCaprio has no plans of lightening

up anytime soon.

"I don't really question [the

themes of movies] when I read a

script," says the 35-year-old actor,

during an interview with a select

group of journalists. "If I feel like I can

be of service to a role, that it emotional-

ly engages me, that it's something that

interests me, and the director is someone

who has the capacity to pull off the ambi-

tious nature of the screenplay, I never

question it.

"So, yes, I guess that a lot of my films

have been more serious in tone. That's

something I don't try to deny. Look, I'm a

very fortunate person…I grew up in L.A.,

and a lot of my friends are actors and many

of them don't [have the luxury] to choose

roles, so I realize everyday how lucky I am.

So while I'm here, I'm going to try and do

exactly what I want I do."

"Inception" and the chance to collabo-

rate with "Memento" and "Dark Knight"

director Christopher Nolan was at the top

of DiCaprio's to-do list.


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w"There are very few directors, I think, in this industry who

would pitch to a studio a multi-layered, almost at times existentialhigh action, high drama, surreal film like `Inception' but if you'reseen Chris's past work in 'Memento' and 'Insomnia,' you knowhe's able to portray these highly condensed, highly complicatedplot structures and give them emotional weight."

"Inception" is far from a conventional thriller. DiCaprio starsas Dom Cobb, a dream thief who penetrates people's subcon-scious minds while they're sleeping in hopes of stealing ideas. Inthe world of corporate espionage, Dom is a giant. But he's grow-ing weary of his assignments and is eager to return home to hisbeloved (Marion Cottilard).

For his last job, Dom agrees to attempt the near-impossible: aninception - or the implantation of an idea in the mind of a businessexecutive (Cillian Murphy). Co-starring with DiCaprio are KenWatanabe, Michael Caine, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, Ellen Page andTom Hardy.

Budgeted at $160 million, "Inception" dreams big. Theaction shifts between real worlds and dream states, trottingaround the globe to locations in Morocco, Tokyo, Paris, Londonand Calgary, Alberta.

DiCaprio bristles a bit when it's suggested that, in somestrange way, "Inception" and Martin Scorsese's "ShutterIsland" are bookends of mind-twisting suspense.

"Bookends? I don't know," he says. "Like I said before, Ithink these [movies have] characters and plot structures thatI was compelled to do. I'm lucky to be able to do them. So Ijump on those opportunities. Traditionally, I've always tried towork with the best directors that I can. These types of filmswhich are psychologically dark at times, I find them extremelyexciting to do because there's always something to thinkabout.

"There's nothing more boring to me than showing up onset, saying a line and knowing that my character means exact-ly what he's saying. It's interesting to have an unreliable nar-rator in a film and that's what both of these films have in com-mon. That notion was extremely exciting for me."

The idea for "Inception" took root ten years ago in Nolan'simagination. Following his success with "Memento," the film-maker was eager to continue exploring the outer limits of humanconsciousness.

"I've been fascinated by dreams my whole life, since I was akid," says Nolan. "I think the relationship between movies anddreams is something that's always interested me. My primaryinterest in dreams is this notion that while you lay asleep, you cre-ate an entire world which you experience without realizing you'reexperiencing it. I think that says a lot about the potential of thehuman mind, particularly the creative potential."

While Nolan always envisioned the movie as a palm-sweating-ly intense thrill ride, it took him a few dozen more re-writes to dis-cover the story's emotional core. " I sort of grew into the film in asense," he recalls.

A big fan of heist movies, Nolan appreciated the "almost delib-erately superficial" nature of many beat-the-clock thrillers. But,he says, there's nothing superficial about dreams and their abili-ty to tap into people's deepest desires.

"Heist movies tend not to have high emotional stakes," saysNolan. "What I realized, over the years, is that when you're talk-ing about dreams, you have to have emotional consequences andresonances. So that was really my process over the [last decade],finding my relationship with the love story, the tragedy of it, andconnecting with the story's emotional side."

Even though Nolan has made generous use of computer-gener-ated-imagery in past films, he was hoping to tell the story of"Inception" without relying on too many special effects. Forinstance, rather than utilize a CGI blizzard, Nolan and companywaited for a real snowstorm to blanket Calgary.

In London, the set of a long hotel corridor was constructed soit would rotate a full 360 degrees, allowing Nolan to create theeffect of zero gravity. Members of the crew also masterminded ahotel bar set on a gigantic gimbal that enabled the entire room totilt and then slowly right itself, creating a surreal, only-in-a-dreameffect.

"This is my first science fiction film," notes DiCaprio. "One ofthe earliest conversations I had with Chris is how both of us havea hard time with science fiction. We both have a little bit of anaversion to it because it's hard for us to emotionally invest inworlds that are so far detached from what we know.

While some actors might find it disorienting to continually bunny-hop between real and surreal worlds,


"But what's interesting about Chris Nolan's science fiction world is that visually it's deeply rooted in things we've seen before. Andemotionally, as far as the character's journey, I [believed in it totally]. You have to believe it or otherwise you're not invested in the char-acter, and you're not going to make it believable to an audience. Everything is real in the film, in essence."

Before production began, DiCaprio read everything he could get his hands on about the science of dreams despite having little per-sonal interest in the subject. "I'm not a big dreamer and never have been," says the actor. "I only ever remember fragments of mydreams."

After finishing up Sigmund Freud's "The Interpretation of Dreams," DiCaprio decided to forgo the experts in favor of Nolan, who hadhis own specific notions about what transpires in dreamland.

"I sat down with Chris for two months every other day and we talked about the structure of this dream world and the rules that applyin it," says DiCaprio. "The only thing that I extracted from all the research I'd done into dreams was that there's no specific science you can apply to dream psychology. I think it's up to the individual.

"We suppress things, emotions and thoughts during the day that we obviously haven't worked out. So, in our sleep, in our subcon-scious, we sort of randomly fire off different story structures in hopes of [resolving our problems]. When we wake up, we should payattention to our dreams."

At the moment, DiCaprio is paying attention to "Hoover," a biopic about the first director of the FBI which Clint Eastwood is prepar-ing to direct later this year.

" J. Edgar Hoover is fascinating because he had his hand in some of the most scandalous events of American history," notes the actor."He was involved in everything from the Vietnam War to Dillinger to Martin Luther King and JFK."

As for Hoover's private life, which reportedly included dressing in drag and carrying on an affair with FBI associate director ClydeTolson, DiCaprio says at least some of the incidents will be depicted.

"The movie's about the secret life of J. Edgar Hoover," DiCaprio notes. "Will I wear a dress? Not as of yet. We haven't done those fit-tings so I think not."

DiCaprio never had a problem figuring out how to communicate his character's altered states.


Can you describe your creative process? What inspires you?

I am a fiber and textile driven designer. The fiber and the denimitself is the most important place to start. It determines hand feel,color, texture, and the overall look. The fit is either good or bad,current or not. The details make a jean cool or lame. The washmakes it art. I love jeans that have rich color and natural lookingfinishes, not gimmicks. Great denim defines the wearer. Shuttleloom selvage denim is the best and the only choice of real denimlovers.

What makes Agave Denim different or better than other denim brands?

Quality & Authenticity. I select about 25 new denims every seasonfrom a universe of over 500. Each is hand selected to fit the spe-cific criteria of the season. Most are from Japanese mills likeKuroki, Kurabo, Kaihara, Nisshinbo. Some are from Italy likeGentex. Then all the jeans are cuts, sewn and finished at Caitacin Los Angeles. I inspect several jeans from every lot we produceand personally sign the limited edition Gold jeans.

What lies in the future for Agave?

Relentless pursuit of making the best quality denim on the planetin a way that is sustainable and leaves the planet in a better place.

µ

How did it start for you? What drew you to the world of denim?

I have always loved jeans. In 2003, I went to Japan with a vintageLevi’s distributor and was initiated into the ways of vintageAmerican denim and its reproductions. Brands like Evisu, BigJohn, Edwin. Lee, Levi, Wrangler. The passion and the productwere indescribable. The people were incredibly cool too. We vis-ited tons of indy shops selling vintage American and Japanesedenim reproductions. I instantly became obsessed with vintageAmerican denim.

What's in the name (Agave Denim)?

Agave is a plant that grows wild all over California and Mexico. InSanta Monica where I grew up and lived, they are called “centuryplants” and are virtually indestructible. They are a succulent andlive to be 100 years old. Humans have been using them for over9,000 years for clothing (jute), rope (sisal) and beverage (tequila).I love the way they look.

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agave with Jeff Shafer for


b y m e l i s s a w a l k e r

Jumby Bay, Antigua, West Indies

Hilary Swank, Thandie Newton and Queen Latifah have allvacayed at this 300-acre private enclave two miles off the coast ofAntigua. Accessible only by boat, the secluded hideaway offersoutdoor garden bathrooms, private to all but the sun and moon.

Star Features: If Angie and Brad wanted to bring the brood,they’d be pleased with the Pampered Parents Program, whichincludes a full day of child care. They might also enjoy the SorbetButler, who serves free refreshments each morning, and the kid-die swag bag.

St. Regis Resort, Bora Bora, French Polynesia

The St. Regis in Bora Bora is so hot that celebrity visits over-lap. Eva Longoria and pro basketball player Tony Parker happenedto crash Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban’s romantic getaway.

Star Features: Spa Miri Miri’streatments include local beautyingredients like luminescent pearlpowder. For the ultimate in elite,book one of the two secluded beachvillas with private pools, completewith exclusive helicopter pads for aDiddy-like entrance.

You deserve a celebrity-style break. Try one of these A-List resorts where stars hide away.

jumbybayresort.com

stregis.com


Turtle Island Resort, Fiji

Both Blue Lagoon movies (’49 and ’79) were filmed onTurtle Island—one of Fiji’s Yasawas Islands—where a 500-acre couples-only resort is located. No wonder BritneySpears and Charlize Theron have both spent more than theminimum six-day stay in one of the 14 private beach villas.

Star Features: There’s a 5-to-1 guest-to-staff ratio, soall your needs are taken care of, from deepsea fishing tofour-handed massage. Musicians lure guests to a nightlyoutdoor dinner party for fresh-caught seafood.

turtlefiji.com

San Ysidro Ranch, Santa Barbara, California

Before Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony started vacationinghere, the ranch was the site of Laurence Olivier and Vivien Leigh’swedding—not to mention John and Jackie Kennedy’s honeymoon.

Star Features: The Privileged Pets Program ensures that yourmini dog will have maxi luxury; after he signs his paw print into the ani-mal guest book, he can enjoy an in-room pet massage. And don’t missthe private yoga instruction, fresh-baked pastries delivered daily toyour door, 17 miles of walking trails and organic vegetable garden.

sanysidroranch.com

Hotel Metropole, Monte Carlo

Refurbished in 2004 by archi-tectural designer Jacques Garcia,the famed Hotel Metropole is amodern classic. Garcia’s goal? Tocreate a space where a rock starcould hang out with a duchess.With Gwen Stefani and theMonaco royals roaming the halls,we’d say, mission accomplished.

Star Features: A spa with an amethyst crystal steam room, cal-adarium (a steam/inhalation bath), ice fountain and showers with aburst of cool mint mist or tropical rain. Not to mention an outdoorheated seawater swimming pool. µ

metropole.com

Melissa Walker is a writer who has worked as ELLEgirl Features Editor andSeventeen Prom Editor. In late 2008, she launched I Heart Daily with fellowex-ELLEgirl Anne Ichikawa. It's a daily newsletter about likable stuff.


Gary Bender grew up on a farm out-

side of Ulysses, Kansas, where he

first started broadcasting games on a

tractor. He was an All-State high

school football player and won a foot-

ball scholarship to Wichita State

University. After graduation, he went

to the University of Kansas, where he

received a master’s degree in Radio-

Television-Film. He later returned to

Kansas to become the radio voice of

the Jayhawks.

In 1969, he left the state to take a job as the television sports director of WKOW in Madison. During that time, he

broadcast the University of Wisconsin football and basketball games. He was named the Voice of the Green Bay

Packers in 1970. He added the Big Ten Basketball Game of the Week on TVS and television coverage of the Milwaukee

Brewers to his schedule. Twice he was named the state’s Sports Broadcaster of the Year.

Bender began is network television broadcasting career with CBS in 1975, serving as a play-by-play announcer for the

NFL, NBA, college football and basketball. During that time, he broadcast the Final Four from 1982-84, which includ-

ed Michael Jordan’s game-winning shot as a freshman and the game known as “The Shot Heard Around the World”,

as North Carolina State upset Houston at the buzzer. His NFL coverage included the “Hail Mary” game in 1975 as the

Cowboys beat the Vikings on a Roger Staubach pass. Bender, during his 12 years at CBS, had the opportunity to

broadcast twenty-seven different sports.

He left CBS in June of 1987 and joined ABC as a play-by-play announcer on ABC’s

Monday Night Baseball. His assignments included coverage of college football

and basketball as well as the 1988 Winter Olympics in Calgary. While in Calgary

he described the tragic falls of Dan Jansen in speed skating.

In 1991, Bender went to Turner Sports to serve as the lead announcer for TNT’s

NFL Sunday Night Football and NBA Basketball. Since leaving Turner Sports

he has broadcast the Phoenix Suns on TV the 17 seasons. Also, during that

time he has been the voice of the St. Louis Rams and Chicago Bears.

Bender is also the author of a book, “The Call of the Game”, which is being

used as a textbook for several universities.

Gary Bender always looks especially dapper announcing for the Phoenix

Suns in his wardrobe provided by The Clotherie. The Clotherie is a proud

sponsor of the Phoenix Suns.

the

sun

s

garybender...you’re not in Kansas anymore



Things are stretched. You’ve got a good job (thank heaven), but with ahouse, car and kids, it seems your salary’s always earmarked for theirimmediate needs. Personal necessities, such as a work wardrobe that

keeps up with the times, slip further and further down your priority list.

You know style makes the man. Now, a new study by Duke University’sFuqua School of Business has confirmed that old aphorism. Researchers

performing an online experiment asked close to 2,000 participants to judge male CEOs (yes, it still is a glass-ceilinged world)

solely on their photographic images.

The experiment came in three sections: The first part found participants rated CEO images as

slightly more attractive and competent-looking than the average male non-executive. The

second part had participants compare CEOs in charge of large companies to

those who ran less-significant firms. Again, just over half (55%) ranked

the big cheeses as more competent-looking than the smaller fry.

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BigStyleDo it up right and you might make that budget bigger too


Now comes the kicker: The third and

final experiment segment asked partici-

pants to rate CEOs’ perceived compe-

tence on a five-point scale. Those who

scored four or more points – again, based

only on appearance – turned out to be paid

on average 7.5% more than those who

scored three points or less.

On what is this appearance of compe-

tency based? The suit, certainly; and if you

can afford a good one, go for it. But there

are other factors that surely count for a

great deal in other people’s eyes. And the

beauty of it is that not only can you afford

to buy the best of these, thereby getting

the most bang for your buck but, lumping

them all together, they still cost less than

the price of a single good suit.

A quality shirt, for instance, can run

upwards of $200, sometimes a bit more. So

what do you get for this kind of dough? A

collar that sits on your neck properly and

opens at the front into a crisp Vee perfect

for nestling a tie knot. A shirt body that will

not bag about your own. A front placket

that doesn’t buckle.

This shirt will be made from the softest

and most luxurious cotton available, a fab-

ric whose shade and patterning is, of

course, au courant. And its cuffs will likely

exhibit single-needle stitching and other

attention to detail (like an additional but-

ton on the sleeve plackets) that, while

hardly noticeable to others, will be known

to you. And cherished.

Such a shirt not only looks great,

its great looks will add to your

own confidence. And extra

confidence always ratchets

up personal attraction.

A good tie, carefully and tastefully cho-

sen, contributes to a general air of refine-

ment. Knotted in a slight arch with a dim-

ple in the center (achieved by compressing

the lower band’s fabric with your thumb

and middle finger while pressing your fore-

finger in the middle as you tighten the

knot), a beautiful tie gives any outfit a

boost of vibrancy and character.

Invest another cool $400 or $500 in your

dress shoes, and you’ll find the dividends

paying off handsomely. Unlike sports

shoes, the trick here is to go for less bells

and whistles than more. The better the

material (leather, always leather) and the

plainer the outward appearance, the more

dignified the footwear. Naturally, your

shoes will be polished – not to a high

gloss, just polished – and paired with exec-

utive length socks ($15 to $20) in the same

color as your suit trousers.

That takes care of your torso and limbs;

the remainder of your image-building

budget goes straight to your head. Shell

out $50 to $100 for a hairstylist who really

knows his or her craft. Not a barber, mind

you, a stylist. Someone with the proper

training who can present your locks (or

lack thereof) in the best possible manner.

Moisturizer, a decent razor and shaving

cream, a pair of tweezers and a small, bat-

tery-operated nose-hair clipper might run

you a further $80 to $100 but they as well

are worth it.

The total expense of all this competen-

cy creation? About $1,000 – $1,500 if you

are obliged to buy a fashionable pair of

eyeglasses (glasses, being so highly

visible, are not a thing you want to

stint on). A bargain, especially

if Duke University is indeed right

and your salary level rises an

average 7.5% as a result. Then

you can really afford that

deluxe CEO suit.µ

A good tie, carefullyand tastefully cho-sen, contributes to

a general air ofrefinement. Certainlythat means a well-made swath of silkwill be worth the

$100 or so it costs.



pho t o c ou r t e s y of h i l t l

Point a finger where you’d like: our continuous engage-ment in the Middle East, Spielberg and Hank’s latest HBO TVseries (not to mention virtually every program on the HistoryChannel), perhaps even Avatar’s far-out 3-D battle sequences orTom Clancy’s new black-ops Splinter Cell video game. Whatevercause you choose to attribute it to, war wear is blazing hot on thisseason’s trend-o-meter.

Indeed, military machismo (particularly that of WWII,the so-called last “good” war) is so enduring thatdesigners can’t seem to leave it alone. In the pastfew years, such style memorabilia has rapidlyovertaken the English Country Gentleman as thelook for fall. A tweed shooting jacket? Puleeze!Give us belted olive-drab outwear completewith outsized patch-and-flap ammo pock-ets. Now there’s something you can reallyshoot in!

Navy topside duffels and peacoats,G.I.-issue trenches and greatcoats,leather-and-shearling bombers andEisenhower blouson jackets, armyboots and desert boots, knit watchcaps, tank watches and thick-link I.D.bracelets – the war list is so exten-sive you’d have a real fight on yourhands trying to avoid its influence.

But, luckily, you won’t feel obli-gated to try. Nor will you have todress like you’re set to storm thebeaches at any moment. Becauseeach of the above-mentioned piecesand more have become so engrainedin our culture they’re now consideredclothing classics. And we all know thatclassics go with just about everything inour closets, don’t we?

Who could object to, say, a comfy duf-fel coat? Its hooded, toggled, warm woolenbody looks perfect over a thick oatmeal ornavy turtleneck sweater and a pair of dark-wash jeans. That is not, of course, the wayField Marshal Montgomery wore it but what theheck – he’s long dead, while the coat he popular-ized lives on.

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Military MachismoVintage military styles turn into enduring men’s classics


ALVIN GENTRYPhoenix Suns Head Coach

PROUD PARTNERS OF

THE PHOENIX SUNS

WE WISH THEM THE BESTFOR THE 2010-2011 SEASON.

Ibiza

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µµµµµµµµµµ

Ditto the lined trenchcoat. Many of this fall’s models mightforgo such historical trench warfare detailing as steel D-ringson the belts – who carries grenades around with them any-more? – but the coat’s warrior spirit still supplies energeticexecutives with a handy, hardy topper for their business uni-forms.

The military influence extends even further through thisseason’s dress lexicon. For instance, a reverse-shearlingleather bomber and its brother-in-arms, the hip-length flightjacket, lead this season’s outerwear pack – and with good rea-son, given their good looks and sterling wing-jockey lineage.Plus, in an interesting design offshoot, the attractive way theoff-white shearling stands out so starkly against the dark jack-et’s edges has led many stylists to imitate this taping effectaround the plackets, collars and cuffs of several of today’scardigans and sportcoats.

Also extremely popular this season is heavy, ankle-high orhigher footwear – mostly desert suedes and combat-inspiredleather boots. Yes, they are immensely practical. But they havean added advantage in the fact that their very weight quite cor-rectly balances the proportions of today’s slimmer-leggedslacks.

Then there is this fall’s particular penchant for belted outer-wear, such as the trenchcoat and leather-belted field jacket,not to mention a veritable slew of shorter blouson jackets withfitted fabric or knit hems hitting just below the ribcage. Thesemore than hint at a renewed interest in the waist – which in turnmeans that even as we speak, pants’ rises are lengtheningagain closer to our true middles. No wonder suspenders arealso experiencing a strong revival this year.

That most martially motivated clothing carries with it arobust, utilitarian feel is no coincidence either. In their heydaythese were, after all, highly functional furnishings developednot for fashion’s sake but for the task at hand. Their inherentserviceable nature therefore tends to work best in casualwearmode, alongside other wardrobe pieces derived from hard-scrabble occupations, such as cowboy denims, constructionworker’s shirts and fisherman’s sweaters. All feature the samekind of durability and no-nonsense design that fits in so wellwith our modern, cut-to-the-chase casual attitude.

Finally, it must be admitted, men are dreamers as well asdoers. There is a romance that persistently clings to wartimegarb, a mixed vision of deprivation and desire, of camaraderie,dirt, and adventure that absolutely appeals to the little boy onthe inside. The one who still dreams of piloting a B-52 over theEnglish Channel or driving an M4 Sherman into the Battle ofthe Bulge. The one who still recalls the thrill of his father’s andgrandfather’s war stories. The one who still gets a kick out ofdressing, even in some small way, just like his heroes. µ

Military-inspired pieces have become so engrained in our culture they’re now considered clothing classics. And we all know that classics go with just about everything.

pho t os c ou r t e s y of m i l e s t on e36the clotherie magazine

Knitsb y l e s l i e c . s m i t h

the selection has never been better. All the usual sweater sus-pects have been rounded up – turtlenecks, vee-necks, cowl necks,and so on – but may we suggest a few that are skewing to be bigfall/winter winners?

The first, Fair Isle sweaters, is an old favorite. For many cen-turies, knitters on Scotland’s Shetland Isles (of which Fair Isle isa part) have been turning the wool of their wind-swept sheep intowarm, fancifully patterned knits. Horizontal bands of ancientmotifs – everything from Greek keys and Nordic stars to stylizeddepictions of ferns and ram’s horns – lie interspersed with rowsof miniaturized crosses, with no two bands ever repeating. Alsoby tradition, natural earth tones and plant-extract dyes such asindigo, acorn brown and madder red form the knit’s color scheme.

Female hobbyists coined the term after noticing how oftenromantic relationships seemed to break up either shortly beforegiving a hand-knit sweater to one’s significant other or shortlythereafter. According to a recent Knitter’s Review poll, 41% ofthose surveyed believe this is true of sweaters made for non-mar-ried or non-engaged men, 30% think it’s all nonsense, and 15%swear they’ve experienced the curse first-hand. The other 14%must have been killed by Bigfoot before they had a chance torespond.

True believer or not, there’s one sure way to ensure your pres-ent relationship survives and thrives – buy your own darnsweaters.

This should be extremely easy to do this season, seeing how

Knews

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Move over Bigfoot, alligators in the sewer system, and Richard Gere’s peculiar sex habits, there’s a new urban legend in town: the Sweater Curse.

(A little advice here...go store-bought)

pho t o c ou r t e s y of h i l t l38the clotherie magazine

Hush Puppies 1958 Collection.HP1958.com

www.rufus.com

This should be extremely easy to do this season, seeing how the selection has never been better. All the usual sweater suspects havebeen rounded up – turtlenecks, vee-necks, cowl necks, and so on – but may we suggest a few that are skewing to be big fall/winter win-ners?

The first, Fair Isle sweaters, is an old favorite. For many centuries, knitters on Scotland’s Shetland Isles (of which Fair Isle is a part)have been turning the wool of their wind-swept sheep into warm, fancifully patterned knits. Horizontal bands of ancient motifs – every-thing from Greek keys and Nordic stars to stylized depictions of ferns and ram’s horns – lie interspersed with rows of miniaturized cross-es, with no two bands ever repeating. Also by tradition, natural earth tones and plant-extract dyes such as indigo, acorn brown and mad-der red form the knit’s color scheme. Although centuries in the making, it was not until 1921, when the then-Prince of Wales wore one while teeing off at St. Andrews golfcourse, that this sweater achieved “instant” recognition. Since that time, the Fair Isle has become a wardrobe staple, as well as fair gamefor knitters the world over.

Fast forward to this fall and you will find Fair Isle styles aplenty, alongside their Icelandic knitwear cousins. You’ll also often find theirpatterning’s been exploded, blown up to two, three or more times its regular size. Why? Just for fun.Another long-time favorite offers echoes of long-johns past. Picture a relatively thin, round-necked knit body, sometimes ribbed, some-times not, with a button closure running from collarbone to sternum. This is what is called a henley in England (after the Henley Regatta)and a Wallace Beery in the U.S. (after the popular 1930s star, who often wore them in his films). Whatever name you know them by, theseknits look great worn on their own with casual trousers, or worn as a real undershirt with another knit or shirt on top.

They also bear a strange relationship to that perennial fashion fixture, the cardigan sweater, named after James Thomas Brudnell,Seventh Earl of Cardigan, commander (and heroic survivor) of the Charge of the Light Brigade.

The fall of 1854 was bitterly cold in the Russian Crimea and army supplies of all kind were perilously low, so low that everyone fromfoot soldiers to the commander himself had to make do with whatever warm clothing they could cobble together.

Cardigan dealt with the situation by layering a front-buttoning undershirt in bright cherry red knit under his battle tunic and wearinghis ornamental Hussar pellise, which normally would be slung over one shoulder, as a jacket on top of the lot.

After the war, these two signature looks of jacket and knit shirt morphed into one. The combative background eventually faded away,leaving casual comfort the field’s sole victor.

Of course cardigans might not have been invented at all if the last of this fall’s super-sweaters had been readily available: The polo-necked pullover features a warm, round-knit body, a vee-shaped button or zip opening at the throat, and a broad collar that lies flat at theback of the neck. Made from heat-retaining, heavy-gauge wool, this versatile pull can be worn on its own, under an outerwear jacket, oreven over a shirt as outerwear itself.

It also, unlike the cardigan or Fair Isle sweater, is distressingly easy to duplicate, so you’d best get one now, before your girlfriendferrets out this fact.

If she insists on knitting you something, ask for a wool muffler – they’re currently very stylish, always handy to have around in coldweather and, best of all, come completely curse free. µ

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CHINAb y p e t e r m a nd e l

Culture by the Cuptra

vel

There is a button you must push to enterChina. The guard at Hangzhou passportcontrol is pointing. I am in a fog from jetlag after flights from Boston, Vancouver,and Hong Kong, but I must press.

"You are very happy with this desk?" heasks. "Not too long checking?"

Uh, just about right, I say.He points to a tiny customer-service cir-

cle with a smile. I choose it over not-so-happy buttons, over one that frowns. Andonce my selection is made, the guardsmiles, too. He beams. He is blushingbeneath his cap as he motions me through.

Here in the city of Hangzhou, inZhejiang province, I will be seeing lakesand bamboo forests. I'll climb to a templethat I hope will house monks. About 120miles from Shanghai, the city is famous forits tea gardens and is counted as one ofthe seven ancient capitals of China. Kevin,the tour guide who picks me up, is anxiousto explain.

"Last year," he notes, "Hangzhoualready have the Burger King, the PizzaHeart." But when we're thinking aboutlunch, he suggests the nearby First GradeRestaurant instead. We approach a build-ing sheathed in mirrored panels. "Soundslike a school cafeteria," someone gripes."Looks like a casino," adds someone else.Kevin He slaps his forehead. We settle fortakeout and drive on.

For a later meal, we park nearHangzhou's West Lake, a turquoise basinreflecting the lampposts and trees aroundits shore. "Louwailou Restaurant," saysour guide with a squint of satisfaction. "Ithas a history of 100 years."

According to what we've been told, thelocal Zhejiang cuisine is known for fish.West Lake fish in sweet-and-sour sauce.West Lake fish in vinegar. West Lake fishwith no sauce at all. A flier someone's picked up has this to say: "You have not really understood Hangzhou if you have not eaten shrimp and fried eel."

"You see this highway, the modern build-ings?" he asks. We roar past glassy structureswith Disney-castle tops. If elves had head-quarters they might look like this.

"No one work there," says Kevin, one ofmany locals who seem to have Westernnames. "Notice. Each one have a garden forfamily growing. These are not for factory. Theyhomes."

I soon find out that Hangzhou is jumpingand wiggling with new wealth. Full of formertea farmers used to green space, the area issprouting apartments built for BeverlyHillbillies, with bok choy fields right in back.

On an introductory tour, Kevin pilots mearound in a car with other tourists. Along abusy boulevard, we pass a flickering sign:"CITY," it blinks. "CITY . . . OF CARTOON."When I ask about it, Kevin shrugs. "New," hesays. He doesn't know what it means.

Same goes for a glittery, floodlit store calledTrendy Way. A mystery, as is the multi-story IFeel hotel. Kevin smacks his forehead apolo-getically. He could be a tourist just like us.


No one wants to risk the eel, but webite into some shrimp fried withLongjing tea leaves. Longjing, or"Dragon Well," a specialty of the region,is one of China's most delicate greenteas.

Next comes a dish that arrives withan air of mystery. Has it been mailed tous from the kitchen? There is a wrappingthat peels off. We pick at it. We taste. It istender. "Beggar's Chicken," explains ourwaiter. It's an entire bird baked inside aball of newspaper and mud.

After our lunch, some of us feel thatwe need a rest. We take naps in ourhotel, because the plan for tomorrow isto make an early pilgrimage to nearbyYongfu Temple to watch the monks takepart in daybreak prayers.

In fact, when we arrive at the villageof Fayun Nong, it is still completely dark.We stagger up the temple hill in black-ness, and it is not until an hour later,toward the end of the monks' measuredchanting, the thumping of a resonantdrum, that a thin chip of dawn begins toshow beyond the sanctuary door. No onesays a word about our presence in theback of the hall. We are noticed, this isclear. But once we begin to lower our-selves when they do, and rise on cue, theservice goes like clockwork. There is abang on a gong. On our way out, from amonk who can't be 20, we receive a bow.

This is one of those mornings whenguests are invited to the temple break-fast. Tables are shared and so are bowlsof noodles, nuts and tofu. Cashews arein demand -- everyone's chopsticksstretch for them, clashing like brittleswords when the bowl is nearly empty.

There is one nut left. My chopsticksretreat. A monk captures the prize. Justthen, I hear a plink, plink, plink.Conciliatory nuts from other monks aredropped onto my plate. I am surroundedby smiles.

It is time for an excursion to the coun-try. On the main street of a tea villagecalled Meijiawu, there are no Englishwords on the signs. I am beginning tobreathe. The air smells cleaner. Maybe itis all the Longjing tea leaves that aredried here and poured into wide, shallowbaskets for display.

Where the shops along Hangzhou'sHefang Street–the Wangxingji FanStore, the Zhang Xiaoquan ScissorsStore, and the Wanlong Ham Store, toname just three–had been busy withshoppers, here in Meijiawu, the side-walks are quiet.

Village roosters walk and peck in ran-dom patterns. The pavement is dusty. Ihead off for a stroll in the tea fields rightat the edge of town.

Tea plants, I decide, are tidy objects.Round and puffy like the tails of poodles,they carpet the ground around Meijiawuas far as you can see. Beyond the rows ofpuffballs rise jagged hills that look asthough they were inked in by an artist,one who has started to erase his workjust slightly, using dabs of fog.

Since it is spring, the tips of the teabranches are turning green. These arethe shoots that are picked to make deli-cate Longjing tea. Kevin has informedme that a cup of the finest hand-pickedLongjing can cost about $73. Oncethey're dried in town, the fragile-lookingleaves I'm passing will bring more than$1,000 per pound in Shanghai.

To taste the tea, I head for Mrs.Pang's Tea House, a small, wood-beamed cottage on the grounds of theAmanfayun Resort in Fayun village,operated by Pang Ying. Ian White, theAmanfayun's British-born general man-ager, says that his plan was to keep asauthentic a tea-drinking experience aspossible. "Mrs. Pang knows tea," saysWhite. "So she is in charge."

Examining me over horn-rimmedglasses, Pang begins her work. "Youmust wash the tea," she says through aninterpreter. "And you must rinse thepot." Boiling water is poured. There isoverflow as the tea and the pot aresluiced. Tides of tea, a cascade that bub-bles, ebbs and flows.

Mrs. Pang partially disappears in acloud of steam. Is this some teahousemagic? There is a sudden scent of blos-soms. Liquid -- light as April -- fills mycup. I take a sip.

Mrs. Pang is watching. She is backnow. All the steam has cleared.

I taste. It isn't tea, exactly. Tea isstrong. Longjing is like a taste of some-thing growing. A blade of grass, somegrains of rice, a petal in a cup.

I think of the Disney-castle gardens inHangzhou. The City of Cartoon, the FirstGrade Restaurant are out of mind.

My head is full of farmers who growtea and don't want to leave the land.

I smile at Mrs. Pang. She pours again.At last, when it comes to family grow-

ing, I understand. µ

WHERE TO STAY

Amanfayun: 22 Fayun Nong. 011-86-571-8732-9999http://www.amanresorts.com

The ultimate in rustic, ultra-low-key resorts. Worth asplurge for a night or two. Rooms start at $580.

Landison Plaza Hotel: 333 Ti Yu Chang Rd. 011-86-571-8515-8888 http://www.landisonplazahotel.com.cn

Luxurious and a relative bargain for this boomingregion. Rooms start at around $100.

WHERE TO EAT

Louwailou: 30 Gushan Rd. 011-86-571-8796-9023http://www.louwailou.com.cn

Has been serving up such Hangzhou delicacies asfried shrimp with Longjing tea leaves and Beggar'sChicken for more than a century. Entrees $13-$29.

WHAT TO DO

Yongfu TempleOn a hilltop in the village of Fayun Nong, a short walk

from the Amanfayun resort and about a 20-minutedrive from the center of Hangzhou. Founded by a

monk from India in A.D. 362, the temple welcomesvisitors who want to watch or quietly participate dur-

ing daybreak prayers.

Mrs. Pang's Tea House22 Fayun Nong 011-86-571-8732-9999

A locally run business in a cottage on the little mainstreet that snakes through the Amanfayun resort. A

good place to sample some of the Hangzhou region'squality teas including, of course, Longjing.



Listen to your casual clothes this season: What they’re saying is that we’ve all been goingat things a bit too hard of late. It’s time to take the edge off; to sit back, appreciate what wehave right now, and relax.

Use your other senses too. You can actually see a certain softness creeping into our attire’ssilhouettes. Sportcoats, for instance, now appear rounder at the sleeveheads, where the top ofthe arm meets the jacket body. Their shoulder lines, while still broad enough to accommodateease of movement, slope slightly away from the collar, as if all tenseness in the torso has beenmassaged out of existence.

That same loosened inclination is visible as well in this season’s outerwear, most of whichoffers a welcome, ease-on-down-the-road kind of vibe. Overcoats and leather jackets in par-ticular show a marked tendency toward raglan sleeves, where the arm seam simply attachesto the collar and drapes down from there, while durable outdoorsy jackets often offer droppedsleeveheads and hoods set into the collar, which help underline the downward bent. For extrasloping emphasis, stylists are showing these jackets worn with cushy cowl-neck sweaters ormufflers swathing the throat, both of which serve to increase the pyramidic effect.

fash

ion

pho t o c ou r t e s y of h i l t l

photo cour t esy of brax

softenupRelax with the best of this season’s casualwear


Lanford in Winter White with Thymus scarf in Feather Grey over Ace in Bitter Chocolate

Knits perhaps give us best evidence of exactly how much clothing restrictions have been relaxed, because nothing else in ourwardrobes says “take it easy” in quite the same way. Certainly, every fall promises its fair share of knit garments. Yet this year’s assort-ment appears poised to be the most extensive on record.

Knit shirts are everywhere, and paired with everything from dress suits to cargo-pocketed khakis. They are also quite useful for play-ing around with this season’s layering effects, say worn over a knit undershirt (of the long-john variety) or under a vee-necked sweater.A further layer can be created by adding into the mix a cardigan jacket or zipped knit sweater-jacket of the Cowichan kind (think Starskyof Starsky & Hutch or, for that matter, the Canadian team at last winter’s Vancouver Olympics).

Then, too, knits are showing up in small, sometimes unexpected, places – for instance in the knit hem, cuffs and collar of a blousonjacket, or occasionally in knit cuffs gathering in the hems on a pair of casual pants.

The latter is likely a mite too fashion-forward for most men’s tastes; but still, a softer attitude is apparent in our regular leggings’ sil-houettes, mainly due to the fact that so many of today’s casual pants seem to be tailored cashmere knits (basically, the best-lookingsweats you’ll ever own) and brushed cotton weaves. Even our old denim friends look better with a loose roll at the cuff – and, incidental-ly, this is an ideal way to showcase that new pair of soft suede ankle boots you’ve had your eye on.

To truly enjoy this fall’s casual selection, though, you must employ touch as well as sight. It is almost therapeutic, running your hand over the velvety corduroy ridges on a pair of five-pocket pants, rubbing your fingers against

the nubby, boiled wool fabric of a hip-length jacket, or skimming their tips over the downy fur and shearling trim that can be found ondozens and dozens of outerwear pieces.

Such rich textures as these – cushioning, pliant, gentle – speak volumes. Mostly they have a lot to say about life in today’s post-reces-sionary world. As in, Our business world, and business wardrobes, may have shrunk and things may have grown tighter all over. But whenwe throw off our work gear, we want clothes that offer us tactile pleasure and a release from constraint.

It’s rather like sipping a delicious martini at the end of a long, hard day. You rediscover that warm trickle of comfort which allows wor-ries to just slide off your back. And, like a martini made from really good gin, people are now treating themselves again to those smallluxuries that make living so worthwhile.

A hopeful sign perhaps for the shape of our psyches, our economy, and our wardrobes, to come. µ

fash

ion

Soft jackets are everywherethis season. The most versatileand fashion conscious pieceyou can have. It just works.Unlined so you can layer itwith a corduroy vest orsweater. It can work in theoffice or at play. You can look stylish even with a hoody thrown underneath.Rock it out!

softenup


The 2011 CTS Coupe joins the CTS Sport Sedan and

CTS Sport Wagon, an award-winning line that has been

named to Car and Driver’s 10 Best list for three straight

years.

Definitely recognizable as part of the record-breaking

CTS family, the Coupe stands out as something new and

exciting with dramatic design changes to enhance the

driving experience. A lower roofline, shorter overall

length and wider track, provide a more aggressive

stance and athletic profile. Most impor-

tant, the coupe isn’t just anoth-

er pretty face. It really delivers when the rubber meets the

road — and that road happens to have some curves.

“The coupe turns it up one notch from where we are

with the sedan,” said performance manager Richard

Kewley. The wider body allowed engineers to spec wider

rear tires. They offset that change with a thicker rear anti-

roll bar to provide more grip without hurting balance. The

CTS Coupe is stiff and surprisingly capable, handling

better than a 3909-lb. car should.

Not Your Father’s CadillacThe 2011 CTS Coupe is turning corners and turning heads.



Cadillac is committed to bringing out a car with few compromises, a car that embod-

ies the passion that they have for their business. And the CTS Coupe does that.

Dave Leone, none other than the Coupe’s chief engineer, says this new car represents

“the most dramatic expression of Art and Science to date.”

The CTS Coupe won the Eyes on Design concept award at the 2008 North American

International Auto Show. Autoblog described the production model as “audacity in

motion.” Car and Driver wrote that the 2011 CTS Coupe added “more style and a higher

concentration of performance to the CTS’s winning formula.”

The CTS Coupe didn’t change much from the concept shown at the 2008 Detroit Auto

Show. The car still has the handle-less door openers, a touch borrowed from the Cadillac

XLR. High-flow mufflers vent through squarish tips integrated into the rear fascia. From the outside, it makes a striking statement.

Prepared to be gawked at, a lot.

The CTS Coupe’s cabin follows the critically acclaimed design of the sedan, and that is not a bad thing. Like the sedan, the CTS

Coupe gets an LCD that rises up out of the dash — James Bond-style. In its down position, it still shows audio information, while

up it shows navigation and lets you browse libraries or the car’s onboard music storage. One of the coolest features of the naviga-

tion system is its live traffic function. Not only will it dynamically reroute around problems, it also pops up an alert if there is a prob-

lem on the road ahead, even when route guidance is not active.

And if that’s not enough adrena-

line for you, you need to check out

the V option. The high-performance

CTS-V Coupe is a rear-drive sedan

powered by a 556-horsepower super-

charged 6.2-liter V8. It teams with a 6-

speed manual or 6-speed automatic

transmission. The CTS-V has GM’s

Magnetic Ride Control suspension,

which automatically adjusts firmness

within two driver-selectable modes

and Performance Traction

Management, a system similar to

GM’s Stabilitrak antiskid system, but it

is set to aid performance in spirited

driving. The V has an upgraded inte-

rior that includes available Recaro-

brand seats with 14-way adjustment

and a suede-like microfiber wrap for

the shift lever and steering wheel.

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The CTS Coupe comes standard with a six-speed automatic transmission, rear-wheel

drive, 18-inch alloy wheels, a performance suspension, rear parking assist, a Bose audio

system, power front seats and keyless access with remote start.

The CTS Performance Collection adds adaptive Xenon headlamps, leather upholstery,

an upgraded Bose audio system and a 40 GB hard drive for music storage.

The CTS Coupe Premium Collection includes ambient lighting, navigation, a rear-view

camera, ventilated front seats, a moonroof and a heated steering wheel.

Standard on the CTS coupe will be the sedan’s optional 3.6-liter direct-injected V6, as

well as an available six-speed manual transmission. The V6 is rated at 304 horsepower, the

engine is fuel thrifty enough to achieve 27 mpg on the highway using regular unleaded.

2502 E. CAMELBACK RD.

SUITE 169

PHOENIX, ARIZONA 85016

TEL: 602 956 8600

ONDA SEMade in ItalySizes: 6.5-16Colors: Black, Chocolate, BrownEquipped with NEST technology

the clotherie fall 2010

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