the art of skin peels rhonda allison

http://get.adobe.com/reader/?promoid=BUIGO

i

T H E A R T O F S K I N P E E L SA Step by Step Skin Peel Guide for

the Professional

Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises

ii

The Art of Skin Peels: A Step by Step Skin Peel Guide for the Professional Copyright © 2000 Rhonda Allison Clinical EnterprisesPrinted and bound in the United States of America.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrieval system, or transmitted in any form

or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review to be printed in a magazine or newspaper.

For information, please contact: Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises

275 Commerce St., Ste 100Southlake, TX 76092

817-410-9899

First Edition 2000Second Edition 2004

Third Edition 2011

www.rhondaallison.com

Although the author(s) and publisher have made every effort to ensure the accuracy and completeness of the information contained in this book, we assume no responsibility for errors, inaccuracies, omissions, or any inconsistency

herein.Any slights of people, places, or organizations are unintentional.

iii

Skin Structure—Diagram 1Why Skin Ages 2Dry Skin 4Sensitive Skin 5Rosacea 6Hyperpigmented Skin 7Oily Skin 8Acne Skin 9Acne Treatments 11Peeling Agents 13Microdermabrasion 15Oxygen 16Fitzpatrick Classification 18Do’s and Don’ts 19Before You Begin 20

Technique 21Treatment Intensities 22Treatments at a Glance 25Protocols 24Remember to Tell Your Client 153Complications 154Wound Healing 155The Post Care Visit 156Post Care Scenario No.1 157Post Care Scenario No.2 161Post Care Scenario No.3 164Home Care 166Product Glossary 167Terms And Modalities 172Contact Us 174

c O N T E N T S

iv

Treatments covered in this book are advanced in the field of aesthetics, and require many years of education. Rhonda Allison Enterprises is not responsible for the reader’s choice of performing any treatment in this book. The book is for information and guidance, and in no way can Rhonda Allison Enterprises determine who is qualified to perform a treatment contained herein nor can Rhonda Allison Enterprises control the reader’s use of this information. Reading this book does not in any way suggest, claim, or authorize that the reader is fully prepared to perform skin peels.

d I S c L A I m E R

v

Everyone using this book should have completed training in skin peels

above and beyond cosmetology school. Since there are no accredited

colleges that cover peels, it is up to each individual to take the

responsibility to seek educators, information, and education that will

increase their understanding of the skin and its reaction to acids.

This book is not a replacement for education. It was created as an

extension to my courses in acid peeling. It is meant to support what my

students learn, and it is my way of sharing the treatments and client care

guidelines that I have found to be most successful in my clinic.

I consider acid peeling not just a science, but an art. Learning an art is

a process that evolves with understanding and experience. I am still

learning and discovering. My hope is that this book becomes a stepping

stone on your path to knowledge and to discovering your art. It is my

privilege to share it with you.

T O T H E P R O F E S S I O N A L S K I N P R A c T I T I O N E R

vi

I am not a doctor, chemist, scientist, or author. I have no degree or formal training. So what are my credentials? I have over 30 years of experience performing acid peels on thousands of clients and on myself. During those years, I have made (and continue to make) a point to discover and integrate every bit of information on skin and skin rejuvenation that I can find. Over the years, I developed a series of unique treatments that synergistically use low-intensity acids so that optimal results can be reached with very little risk. In this book, I am now happy to offer you the best of these treatments, but not without some trepidation. You see, I am providing information that is controversial because there is little or no standardization as to what an aesthetician can or cannot do. Though I do foresee more standardization (hopefully on a federal level), until that time, I work within self-imposed boundaries. And I am ethically bound to ask you to do the same. I must ask you to do what I have done: accomplish the best results at a noninvasive, superficial level. Because the skin is a live and responsive organ, what I ask is in no way limiting. I have helped at least 95% of my clients achieve their skin care goals even though my most aggressive peels are considered superficial by medical standards. Much of what I have learned, I learned by just doing. I did not know why skin looked better as a result of skin peeling—it just did. After more than 30 years, I know from my case studies and personal experience, superficial chemexfoliation does the following:

Lighten and brighten skin

Improve appearance of enlarged pores

Diminish fine lines

Soften wrinkles and furrows

Increase blood circulation

Reduce sebum

Soften scar tissue

Minimize comedones, pustules, and papules and allow

for easier extraction

Stimulate fibroblast, resulting in new cell development

Strengthen integrity of skin

R E S U LT: A HEALTHIER ANd mORE YOUTHFUL SKIN!How does all this happen? In this book, we first take a look at basic skin structure so that we understand the science. Then we go into important pre-treatment advice followed by the various skin types and what treatments are most appropriate for each. We conclude with possible complications and post care scenarios.

I N T R O d U c T I O N

1

The skin is the largest and one of the most important organs of the body. Its architecture is impressive. One-half square inch of skin contains millions of cells, more than a yard of tiny blood vessels, about 50 sebaceous glands, more than 200 sweat glands, and over 500 nerve endings. Its pH is acidic (4.2 to 5.6), and curiously enough, male skin is more acidic than female skin.

There are two main skin structures, the epidermis and the dermis. The epidermis is the outermost layer. It is nonvascular and is comprised of layered sheets of squamous epithelium. The dermis is underneath the epidermis and is composed of connective tissue. Both of these structures are supported by subcutaneous tissue, which is basically a thick layer of loose connective tissue and fat.

The deepest epidermal layer is the stratum germinativum. It is composed of column-shaped epithelial cells, which have the ability to reproduce. As new cells from the germinativum successfully move toward the surface of the skin, they specialize to provide maximum protection for the body tissues that lie beneath them. They become stratum malpighii cells, then stratum granulosum cells, then stratum lucidum cells, and finally stratum corneum cells.

Stratum germinativum cells become cells of the malpighii layer where melanin, the pigment substance that gives color to skin, is found. Malpighii cells become cells of the granulosum layer. These cells are made of eleidin, an intermediate substance in the formation of horn (keratin).

Granulosum cells become cells of the lucidum layer, where they become indistinct, closely packed scales in which only traces of flattened nuclei can be found. Finally, lucidum cells make the transformation to become stratum corneum layer cells.

In the stratum corneum, cells’ fluid contents evaporate; cells become flat and lose all nuclei. Their protoplasm fully transforms into keratin, a highly protective, waterproof, abrasion-resistant substance.

The ability of the stratum germinativum to reproduce and specialize is critical because it enables the skin to repair itself if injured. This is also why peels work. Damaged superficial stratum corneum cells can be removed and cellular reproduction can be stimulated, allowing new, undamaged skin to form.

S K I N S T R U c T U R E

2

w H Y S K I N A g E SThere are two factors that affect the aging of the skin:

extrinsic and intrinsic. Intrinsic or internal aging is biological aging that occurs with the passing of time. Extrinsic or external aging is the natural process of biological aging compiled with exterior causes such as sun exposure, air pollution, smoking, lifestyle, cosmetics and other allergens and lack of care. It is extrinsic aging that affects the appearance of the skin.

Extrinsic “skin agers” are exposure to extreme weather conditions (cold, heat, wind) for long periods of time, smoking (this affects biological and extrinsic aging) - not only toxic to skin but will form upper lip lines, pollutants, inappropriate cosmetics, lack of skin care and protection.

1. SUN ExPOSURE. The most damaging of all extrinsic factors is sunlight. Since most aging of the skin is due to overexposure to sun, think of the control one has in preventing premature aging. WEAR SUNSCREEN AND STAY OUT OF THE SUN!

UVA and UVB rays destroy skin. UVB burns and UVA ages. Basically, sun exposure zaps the tissue of all moisture and hydration, and sun radiation penetrates the dermis and affects the skin at the cellular level, causing long-lasting damage. In addition, sun exposure depletes the nutrients in the skin. Over time, such nutrient depletion compromises the skin’s ability to regenerate; as dead cells build up on the surface of the skin, the production of new cells becomes less and less, resulting in aging skin.

Most sun damage occurs in early childhood, but damage continues throughout our lifetime. Its effects are cumulative and gradual, yet brutal. It is said that 90% of all wrinkling of the skin is due to sun damage. Tanning beds are not any safer; they are worse for us than the sun! In addition, NO skin type is safe; ALL will age when overexposed.

2. ENvIRONmENT. Pollution causes free-radical damage. Use of topical and systemic antioxidants can, to a certain degree, protect the skin from such damage.

3. LIFESTYLE. Inadequate sleep, insufficient fluid intake, and poor nutrition all have a deleterious effect on the skin. Smoking, a big free-radical producer, is a major dehydrating and aging lifestyle factor.

why is it that as we chronologically age, our ability to repair and recover from damage is much less?

The primary reason is the damage caused to cells by free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules that take electrons from healthy molecules. This creates a cycle of more free radicals that attack cellular membranes.

ANTIOxIdANTS & HOw THEY AFFEcT SKIN

Internal activity of free radicals is a natural process and the body will normally adjust to this. However, there are many outside factors that increase free radical damage - number one is the sun and many others include air pollution, smoking, foods, chemicals in everyday products, and the air we breathe. So you can see there is a constant barrage of intruders on our skin.

The use of nutrients that will actually absorb into the tissue and support healthy cell development is valuable in counteracting free radical damage. Antioxidants are an answer to a healthier skin but a key consideration as to the effects of a topical antioxidant is its ability to penetrate. Important antioxidant ingredients are superoxide dismutase, plant derived antioxidants, resveratrol (wine extracts), grape seed extracts, D-alpha tocopherol, L-ascorbic acid, and beta carotene.

3

Free radical scavengers administered systemically and/or topically reduce damage by decomposing free radicals into compounds.

It is collagen that gives our skin its youthful appearance but unfortunately it is also a primary target for free radicals. Collagen is a protein that forms a grid which holds other skin structures. Collagen fiber, when healthy, keeps the skin smooth and resilient, but becomes very stiff and brittle when damaged. This begins to give the skin a more aged appearance. Combined with free radical damage are various triggers, such as UVA rays from the sun, which creates inflammation within cells and collagen digesting enzymes. This process starts the formation of wrinkles.

Elastin is a protein and is a key molecule that affects the aging of the skin. It is more stretchable than collagen and also adds to the resilience and elasticity of the skin.

An area that must not be ignored pertaining to health and aging of the skin is nutrition. Changing how one eats and adding vitamin & mineral supplements to your diet is not going to erase wrinkles and stop aging, but improved eating style will slow it down and contribute to better health. On the other hand, a diet of junk food or no food will eventually affect your skin as well as many other organs of the body. Nutrition from within will encourage healthy cells but will not protect the skin from outside damage. That is why skin must have the correct topical skin nutrition. Deficiencies of certain nutrients - Vitamin A, B Complex, and Essential Fatty Acids are known to cause various forms of dermatitis and other skin conditions. Mild deficiencies may not directly affect the skin but may slow down the skin's ability to heal and renew itself.

Stress the importance of protecting the skin from the sun. The most effective anti wrinkle cream you can offer is a sun block. The best protection is a physical block that is natural, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and iron oxides. Avoid the chemical sunscreen ingredient octyl methoxycinnamate (OCM).

All skin types age but peeling in general will be a positive support system for many skins. I have included a section for aging skin that may over lap with other skin conditions. These treatments are for skin that shows signs of wrinkling, aging, unevenness of color, photoaging, lines around the eyes and mouth, and dull, tired skin that has lost its luster.

4

d R Y S K I NDry skin has an absence of moisture, and also may lack

adequate sebum/oil production, but not always. Dry skin conditions range from a minimal lack of moisture to eczema, psoriasis, and “alligator” skin. Dry skin ages faster, looses elasticity, becomes dull in appearance, and is more prone to wrinkles and furrows. As with all skin conditions, there are intrinsic and extrinsic causes. Intrinsic causes of dry skin include genetic factors, medications, antihistamines and antibiotics, illness, and aging. Thinner skins and fair complexions are more prone to dehydration. It is said when we are born, we are composed of 90% water, and that as we age this becomes less. So much so that by the time we are in our golden years we are about 10% water. One of the first places our tissues lose water is the skin.

A healthy, beautiful skin is a moist skin. Think about an animal’s hide. It is supple until the moisture is removed, and then you have leather!

1. SUN ExPOSURE. *See page 2 “Why Skin Ages”

2. cOSmETIcS. Alcohol-based products are very drying. Clay-type masks are also drying, especially bentonite.

3. dAILY SKIN TREATmENTS. Overuse of scrubs can dry your skin. Undercleansing and overmoisturizing can also dehydrate because the moisturizing agent just lies on the surface of the skin, unable to penetrate the layer of build-up.

A note on sleeping: Instruct clients to avoid sleeping facedown. Dry skin is less elastic, and thus is more prone to the formation of wrinkles.

Over time, with adequate care, problems resulting from dry skin can be reversed by:

1. Recommending to your client the elimination or at least management of the listed external causes.

2. Having your client adopt what I call “total sun awareness.” This means using sunblock and a hat, and avoiding exposure during the sunniest time of day (10 a.m. to 3 p.m.). It also means wearing sunglasses, being aware of light coming through car windows (if possible, having car windows tinted), and wearing clothes, hats, shirts, and swimwear that have been UVB protected if the client is going to be out in the sun regularly. I recommend physical sunblocks with titanium dioxide and/or iron oxides, as they give the best protection.

3. Instructing your client about the importance of following an appropriate daily skin program that includes cleansing, nourishing, moisturizing, and protecting.

4. Assessing your client’s skin care needs and recommending the appropriate professional skin rejuvenation treatments. The typical age of a client with dry skin problems is 26 years old and up.

In the next section of this book and in the post care section, you will find professional skin care protocols that I have found extremely useful in the treatment of dry skin.

5

S E N S I T I v E S K I N The term sensitive in relation to skin type is often overused or misunderstood. The skin is a reactive mechanism and does respond to internal and external factors - certain individuals are more sensitive or reactive to environment, foods, medications, and certainly cosmetics.

It has been my observation over many years of working with skin, and being an individual who is also reactive to substances; that most sensitive skins are reacting to inferior products or products that contain dyes, preservatives, and perfumes. These are the three skin antagonizers and often times when eliminated the skin begins to calm down and show less irritation.

A truly sensitive skin is one that reddens and develops rash easily. Even though all skins react to outside influences such as pollution, smoking, sun, and wind, sensitive skins overreact. Sensitive skin tends to be thinner than average and more prone to broken capillaries (telangiectasia).

The approach for treating this type of skin is slightly different. It is my experience that sensitive skins do not tolerate alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) as well as they tolerate beta acids and retinol. Therefore I begin treatments with a less aggressive approach by using lower-strength AHAs in combination with enzymes instead of higher-strength AHAs. The lower-strength AHAs melt down the stratum corneum, allowing regeneration to begin, and then I like to continue this process with the better-tolerated retinols and beta acid peels. A series of progressive treatments is a good way to strengthen skin integrity and desensitize skin, bringing it to a state of less reactivity.

It is also important to understand that chemical peels may be one of the best supports for what is termed a "sensitive" skin and as new, healthy cells surface the skin becomes less irritated and reactive, specifically if the daily regimen is adjusted to what their skin likes.

There are many excellent skin rejuvenation choices for reactive skin types that will support and enhance the health and appearance of the skin for a lifetime.

6

R O S A c E A

wHAT IS ROSAcEA?

Rosacea is a chronic and progressive disorder that may first be noticed as redness on the cheeks, nose, chin, or forehead that comes and goes. A susceptibility to rosacea, called pre-rosacea, can be detected in teens or early 20s. Rosacea is even reported in children.

According to medical research the cause is unknown and incurable.

There are many theories as to the cause - poor circulation, sluggish lymph, genetic predisposition, digestive disorders, bacteria and mites attached to cells.

FIRST STAgE OF ROSAcEA

Frequent blushes or flushes, strong family history of rosacea & facial skin that becomes irritated by topical creams, lotions, anti-acne medications, and over the counter sunscreens and skin products with irritating ingredients.

SEcONd STAgE OF ROSAcEA

Redness tends to become ruddier and more permanent. Dilated blood vessels (telangiectasia) may appear and papules and pustules begin to form.

Certain areas of the skin may take on a "baggy" appearance from swelling.

THIRd STAgE OF ROSAcEA

Deep persistent redness and many dilated veins, especially around the nose. An early sign of the third stage is fibroplasia (growth of excess tissue), which can produce enlarged pores.

At its worst, especially in men, the nose may grow swollen and bumpy from excess tissue, a condition called Rhinophyma (W. C. Fields with the bulbous nose).When the entire face is involved swelling may produce painful nodules and with fibroplasia, lion-like facial features occur.

mY PERSONAL ExPERIENcE wITH ROSAcEAI have a genetic predisposition to it and did in fact develop

the first stage in my twenties. I was going into the second stage (broken blood vessels and very pink cheeks) when I began to change what I used on my skin. I took Rutin (Vitamin P) a bioflavinoid for many years and changed my sun habits.

I started having peels (Modified Jessner and Coresa Salicylic) regularly. That is how I discovered early on that peels had a very positive effect on a sensitive and/or rosacea skin. My skin reacted negatively to products that contained perfumes, dyes, or preservatives and when “fruit acids” came onto the scene, my skin was not happy at all with glycolic acid. So even with peels we have to be selective and adjust to each individual. Also as professionals, do not choose your topicals only by what you can use - if I had done that I would have missed out on the wonderful benefits of AHAs.

7

Hyperpigmentation is not a skin type, but because it is a common condition on facial skin and because it responds well to peels and lightening treatments, I’ve decided to dedicate a section to it. Hyperpigmentation is a condition that can happen to all skin types, from dry to oily. It is excessive stimulation of melanin in the skin that results in an uneven, darkened skin tone.

THERE ARE APPROxImATELY 2000 mELANOc Y TES PER mILLImETER OF SKIN Ethnic skin is not darker because it holds more melanocytes (which produce the melanin that creates pigment). There is the same amount of melanocytes present in white and dark skin. The difference is that in darker skin, the cells are larger, not more numerous. This produces more pigment.

Excessive production of melanin can be brought on by systemic and extrinsic causes. And even in systemic situations, it can be made worse by extrinsic causes. Skins that have more pigment seem to be more prone to hyperpigmentation, but with the introduction of chemicals, medications, and overexposure to sun, anyone can be susceptible.

Systemic causes include pregnancy, hormonal changes, birth control pills, estrogen intake, and the use of antibiotics. Acne trauma and inflammation can result in hyperpigmentation, especially if the client has darker skin and if lesions are picked and not allowed to heal naturally.

The main extrinsic cause is the sun! Sun exposure can cause hyperpigmentation on its own or in combination with other agents. For example, perfume on a sun-exposed neck may result in hyperpigmentation. And in all cases of hyperpigmentation, the sun always makes it worse.

T YPES OF PIgmENT cHANgESHyperpigmentation - Darkened pigmentHypopigmentation - No melanin (an abscense of color)Demarcation - Uneven pigmentation from procedures, picking, or scratching.

When examining the skin, the professional will observe three types of hyperpigmentation:

Epidermal or surface is light brown and not quite as dense. Dermal is deeper brown or ashen gray and appears more solid. A mixture of both levels is usually dark brown.

As a professional, you need to be aware that skin rejuvenation, i.e., chemical peels, laser and mechanical peels, may induce hyperpigmentation, referred to as PIH. Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation is over-stimulated melanocytes that results in increased melanin. And you also need to remember to educate clients about the sun and to always recommend sunblock. Sun exposure can exacerbate the problem; a high SPF sunblock is an essential factor in effectively controlling hyperpigmentation.

This condition is normally treated with melanin suppressants such as hydroquinone, natural plant-based lighteners, and AHAs. It can also be treated with microdermabrasion and other peeling methods.

Treatment results vary greatly depending on whether discoloration is at a cellular or superficial level. Through a series of treatments there can be significant change and correction. Sometimes, if total evenness of color has not been achieved, topical camouflages may be used.

H Y P E R P I g m E N T E d S K I N

8

O I LY S K I N Oily skin results from the overproduction of sebum by the sebaceous glands of the skin. It is not really known why one person’s skin produces more oil than another’s. Some experts believe that genetics and adolescent hormonal changes are key factors. But regardless of key factors, it is a common condition that can result in problematic skin. Oily skin is more prone to comedones, enlarged pores, and acne lesions. In addition, many people are uncomfortable with the shiny appearance and slippery surface caused by excessive oil production.

Oily skin requires the use of stripping cleansers that are capable of dissolving surface lipids. It can benefit from a home care program that includes alcohol-based lotions, clay-type masks, and the use of alpha-hydroxy and beta acids. However, keep in mind that overuse of some stripping agents, such as scrubs, will actually stimulate oil production. Alcohol and clays may overdry the skin. As professionals, you must observe and be aware of each client’s needs so that you can attain and maintain a healthy balance. Age is not necessarily a factor in oily skin. I have had clients with oily skin as young as 10 years and as old as 70 years of age. It is very possible for someone to have oily and dry skin; there can be an overproduction of oil and an absence of moisture.

9

A c N E S K I N This is an important skin condition because about 90% of Americans at one point or another have acne. It is important to know exactly what it is: the various types of acne, factors that affect it, and treatments that help control it.

wHAT IS AcNE? The stratum corneum is constantly shedding and being replaced by new cells. When this natural exfoliation slows down, a gradual buildup forms and retention hyperkeratosis occurs. Dead skin cells stick to the surface and begin lining the inside walls of the follicles. Sebum acts as a clogging agent by causing dead skin cells to stick together and to the walls of the follicles. The following inflammatory and noninflammatory lesions result:

mIcROcOmEdONES. When cells build up inside the follicle wall, a small (not readily visible) impaction is formed, which is called a microcomedone. Microcomedones are mixtures of dead cells, bacteria, fatty acids from excess sebum, and other cellular debris. As they grow in size, they become visible closed or open comedos.

cLOSEd cOmEdO (wHITEHEAd). As the cellular debris collects, the follicle wall stretches to contain the contents of the impaction, but the follicle opening does not.

OPEN cOmEdO (BLAcKHEAd). The pore is dilated by the impacted mass, allowing the debris to push toward the surface opening. Oxygen is what causes the darkening of the sebum that is exposed.

PAPULE. A papule is a closed comedo that does not become a blackhead but instead becomes large enough to break the follicle sac. Once this happens, the immune system sends white blood cells into the area, depositing digestive enzymes to

dissolve the impaction. Inflammation occurs and a painful, elevated, red lesion that does not form pus results.

P U S T U L E. When a papule is not dissolved by enzymes, white blood cells continue to engulf the break in the follicle wall, forming pus. As the pus builds up, white blood cells migrate to the surface, bringing impacted material with them and dilating the opening to form a pustule. Pustule formation alleviates pressure on the nerve ending and pain is subdued.

NOdULE. When the break in the follicle is near the bottom, a nodule forms. A nodule is a sore red lesion that is larger, deeper, and firmer than a papule.

c YST. When there is intense inflammation in a follicle, thousands of white blood cells invade the site and create a large, soft, pus-filled lesion resembling a boil. Any lesion larger than one centimeter is considered a cyst.

T Y P E S O F A c N EAcNE vULgARIS. This occurs primarily in adolescents and involves a variety of lesions such as comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts, and sequelae (pitted or hypertrophic scars).

AcNE cOSmETIcA. This acne is triggered by topical pore-clogging substances. It usually consists of noninflammatory lesions.

AcNE mEcHANIcA. This is acne that is caused by friction or pressure. Rubbing or manipulation of microcomedones may cause a rupture of the follicle on acne-prone skins.

10

AcNE ROSAcEA. This is an adult acne that is more predominant in women than men. (An extreme state, bulbous hypertrophy of the nose, is more predominant in men.) It is usually seen in people with northern European heritage, and is recognized by erythema with telangiectasia. Large and painful papules and pustules form in the center of the face, primarily on the cheeks and chin (typically where vessels dilate).

Excessive alcohol, hot spicy drinks and foods, caffeine, tobacco, extreme weather conditions (sun, wind, heat, cold), hot or cold showers, sauna, and strenuous exercise exacerbate rosacea.

AcNE IS cLASSIFIEd IN gRAdES: Grade 1—Comedonal acne Grade 2—Comedones and some pustules Grade 3—Comedones, inflamed pustules,

and an occasional cyst Grade 4—Large pustules, inflamed cysts, and nodules

FAc TORS AFFEc TINg AcNE

STRESS. This is a critical factor affecting acne. Flare-ups occur between 14 days to a month after the stress response.

NUTRITION. There is no proven correlation between acne and the foods we eat. However, alcohol, caffeine, and foods with iodides (salts, processed foods, fast foods, excessive dairy products, soy sauce, MSG) can trigger existing acne conditions.

HORmONES. An increase in progesterone aggravates acne conditions in genetically vulnerable women. Increased estrogen generally relieves acne, which is why physicians often prescribe birth control pills.

PIcKINg. Picking, improper squeezing, and inept extraction rupture the follicle sac.

dRYINg. Topical agent overuse can cause sebaceous glands to produce more oil.

SKIN IRRITANTS. Detergents, fabric softeners, shampoos, hairsprays, and conditioners can contribute to an existing acne condition. Thus, it is important to have clients rinse laundry thoroughly, replace pillowcases daily, and use clean washcloths.

cOSmETIcS. Fragrances, dyes, and preservatives irritate sensitive and acne-prone skins.

11

A c N E T R E AT m E N T S

mEdIcAL Medical treatment of acne includes the use of antibiotics (Tetracycline, Minocin, Erythromycin), Accutane, and Retin-A. Antibiotics are sometimes ineffective because they do not necessarily affect the pores of the skin. Patients may also experience unwanted side effects with antibiotic use, such as increased sun sensitivity, yeast infections, and digestive disorders.

Accutane is a Vitamin A derivative that is an extremely potent systemic drug. It shuts down the sebaceous activity of the entire body. It does not work for all types of acne, and it is not uncommon for acne to return less than a year followingtreatment. Side effects include severe birth defects, diabetes, kidney malfunction, severe dry and peeling skin, gum inflammation, bleeding, and more.

Retin-A is a Vitamin A derivative also known as tretinoin or retinoic acid. It is a topical treatment available in various strengths in liquid, gel, or cream formulas. The liquid and gel are helpful with noninflammatory acne but will not kill bacteria. Comedogenic cream versions contain isopropyl myristate and stearic acid, which can aggravate acne conditions.

AESTHETIc The aesthetician’s goal is to eliminate dead skin cell buildup with some form of exfoliation, to control and eliminate bacteria, decrease inflammation, reduce sebaceous activity, and extract lesions.

The following are some handy and effective aesthetic tools that can help you achieve this goal:

TO ELImINATE BUILdUP Enzymes are complex organic proteins that accelerate

chemical reactions. When applied to the skin, they exfoliate by digesting stratum corneum cells. There are a variety of safe and effective enzymes, including the papaya enzyme, citrus enzyme, vegetable enzyme, pancreatic enzyme, bacillus enzyme, and milk enzyme (lactose).Use of the appropriate enzyme can be an effective and gentle way to approach exfoliation in the treatment of acne.

AHAs are nontoxic organic substances sometimes referred to as fruit acids that help loosen follicle impactions and reduce corneocyte cohesion and thickening of the corneum layer. Glycolic and lactic acid treatments and/or home applications can successfully support the treatment of some acne skins.

L-Retinol is a safe form of Vitamin A that causes cell turnover and increases tissue regeneration.

Salicylic acid is a beta acid that is an anti-inflammatory and drying agent. It breaks down and exfoliates surface skin cells.

Other acid compounds such as low-strength trichloracetic

acid (TCA), azelaic acid, Modified Jessner formula, and combinations of these can be effective exfoliants.

Microdermabrasion abrades and removes the cells of the stratum corneum.

12

TO cONTROL ANd ELImINATE BAc TERIA Sulfur is an anti-inflammatory and disinfectant that

reduces sebaceous gland activity and exfoliates by drying dead surface cells.

Benzoyl peroxide is an irritant that causes cell turnover and desquamation of the keratin plugs. It is very effective because it penetrates two millimeters into the follicle. Its oxygenating properties are effective against propionibacterium.

Organic oxides such as hydrogen peroxide kill bacteria on contact.

Corundum powder, which is used in microdermabrasion, is a germicide.

Azelaic acid is an antibacterial and lifting agent.

TO REdUcE SEBAcEOUS Ac TIvIT YThe following ingredients are drying and therefore aid in the

balance of sebaceous activity. Many recipes combine these ingredients. However, precaution should be taken not to overuse them since they also remove moisture (water content) from the skin.

Camphor Alcohol Clay bentonite masks Corundum crystal powder (microdermabrasion crystals)

Ex TRAc TIONThe best time to do extraction is during a deep cleanse

treatment that does not use acids, or during a post care visit. Never do extraction prior to application of an acid. Proper extraction can make the difference in the success of an acne treatment. Thus, in my opinion, training on how and when to do extraction is equally as important as understanding the use of acids.

Following are four extraction techniques that I have found helpful. These techniques are most effective when preceded by steam, which softens the skin and makes the pores more accessible.

1. mANUAL Ex TRAc TION. Wrap fingers in gauze or cotton and apply pressure to lift out lesion, using an upward movement.

2. LANcET OR HYPOdERmIc NEEdLE Ex TRAc TION. The lesion is pierced in order to dilate the pore and reduce pressure. Check state regulations and guidelines on what you are able to use.

3. cOmEdONE Ex TRAc TOR. This is a metal tool that, when used with pressure, lifts sebum from the follicle. If the pressure is not right, you can break capillaries.

4. cOT TON SwABS. A very effective pressure technique developed by Mark Lees involves the use of cotton swabs.

Don’t forget home care topical agents as a support in the control of acne. Many preparations are very effective. Determining the one most appropriate for each client is a challenge and should be approached in a clinical, observant, individualized manner.

13

P E E L I N g A g E N T S

STRIc TLY mEdIcAL PEELINg AgENTS: Phenol acid (88% solution) Bakers Gordon—a combination of phenol, croton oil

(which enhances the absorption of the phenol), septisol soap, and distilled water

Phenol products are extremely toxic and pose considerable risk. They can produce cardiac arrhythmia and are very toxic to liver and kidneys.

Unnas resorcinol paste 5-Fluorouracil 20% to 50% TCA 20% + Azelaic acid 50% to 70% Glycolic acid

An example of a TCA peel is the Blue Peel. The Blue Peel was developed by Dr. Obaji as a way to determine depth of penetration. Blue methinone dye is added to various strengths of TCA and applied in layers to create a deep peel.

AESTHETIc USE PEELINg AgENTS:

AHA S. Naturally occurring, nontoxic organic acids. The most commonly used are glycolic acid, which comes from sugar cane, and lactic acid, which is derived from milk. Other AHAs are malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid. Malic comes from apples, tartaric from grapes, and citric (which can sometimes be a beta acid) comes from citrus. The efficacy of an AHA is not solely based on the percen-tage; also requiring consideration are the following:

pH—an acid pH from 2.5 to 3 is an effective range. Grade—there are various grades of AHAs. Selecting the highest grade is important. The highest grade is the ultra pure crystalline grade. Neutralizing—when an AHA is neutralized, its pH level has been brought to 7 and it is no longer an acid. Buffering—of an AHA keeps the pH at the desired acidity level. One method of buffering is accomplished through a process called polymerization. Polymerization locks in an acid’s pH. Buffering is a stabilizing technique. Stabilizing—it is important for free acids to be stabilized. Another way to stabilize acids besides buffering is to place them in an aqueous base.

UP TO 15% A zELAIc AcId. Azelaic acid is created by oxygenating oleic acid, which is an unsaturated fatty acid found in milk fats. It is used as an antibacterial, lightening, and lifting agent.

SALIc YLIc AcId. This is a beta-hydroxy acid that has been used medically for over 50 years, namely as a remedy for rheumatic and gouty conditions. It is used as a food preservative and in the manufacture of aspirin. Salicylic acid is extracted from wintergreen and birch. It is a relatively safe, self-neutralizing, risk-free acid that has a drying and lifting effect on the skin. Repeated applications of high-strength salicylic acid can result in systemic toxicity.

TcA. Trichloracetic acid will penetrate only if it is used in an aqueous base. It has a shorter shelf life than some acids, yet is nontoxic, self-neutralizing, and keratolytic. Consequently, it is very effective in low strengths (5% to 15%) and it can be used either alone or in combination with other acids.

14

RETINOL. This is a derivative of Vitamin A and an unquestionably effective treatment for sun-induced wrinkles and pigmentation associated with aging skin. The increased cell turnover that occurs with retinol results in a smoother, silkier skin. Other benefits include overall improvement of circulation and oxygenation and strengthening of skin blood vessels. Clients report a “healthy glow” as the result of retinol use.

Past animal studies have shown that Retin-A inhibits the development of skin tumors. Since retinol changes because of enzyme activity to retinoic acid once it is applied, similar results occur; pre-cancerous lesions and actinic keratosis disappear.

JESSNER. This was formulated by Dr. Max Jessner, who believed that combining lower-strength acids creates a synergy that results in a more efficient exfoliating agent with less risk of toxicity and complications. He originally used 14% salicylic acid, 14% resorcinol, and 14% lactic acid.

RESORcINOL. This is obtained from various resins. A resin is a brittle substance formed from the hardened secretion of plants. Resorcinol has lifting properties, but it can be toxic and can induce hyperpigmentation on certain skin types. Patch testing is always recommended.

wINE Ac Id/Ac ETI c Ac Id. This all-natural acid was developed in a French lab where its antioxidant properties were discovered. Scientists theorized that when used on the skin, this acid would exfoliate without creating as many free radicals, thus causing less injury to the skin. This is not proven, it is simply a theory, but one worth considering.

ENz YmES. These are proteins that digest the cells of the stratum corneum. They originate in living cells. For example,

pepsin comes from the stomach lining of pigs and botanical plant sources and papain is from the papaya fruit.

FAc TORS THAT AFFEc T PERmEABILIT Y OF AcIdS: Percentages/pH of acid. How often it has been applied to the skin. How many layers are applied. How long it is left on the skin. Thickness of skin. How the skin is prepped. The area being treated. Pressure used in applying the solution and the amount

of solution used. Type of applicator used (gauze, cotton swabs, brush). Pre-treating with home care acids.

A wORd ABOUT “L” & “d” mOLEcULES:When available, I recommend using chirally correct

ingredients. Over 150 years ago, Pasteur while studying tartaric acid from wine making discovered that most organic molecules have two parts: a “left-handed” part and a “right-handed” part. They are mirror images of each other.

Nutrients and benefit-giving compounds are more effective when one portion of the molecule is removed, and it is the remaining portion of the molecule that is considered chirally correct. Chirally correct is denoted by an “L”: L-Lactic, L-Ascorbic Acid, L-Retinol for the left side and a “D”: D-Alpha Tocopherol, D-Beta Fructan for the right side.

15

m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N

wHAT IS mIcROdERmABRASION?Microdermabrasion consists of a jet of microcrystals which

are propelled through a small, hollow, pencil-like hand piece across the skin’s surface, removing damaged and dead cells with vacuum pressure. It is an effective acne treatment and reduces scars, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Its overall result is that it leaves the skin smooth, soft, healthier, and more youthful looking.

Treatment intensity ranges from light to deep and is determined by the number of passes performed. Because I use the Ultrapeel CrystalTM microdermabrasion machine, I am most familiar with the way it operates, so I know how deep I am going with each pass. Every machine is different; therefore, it is important that you know the capabilities of your machine and work accordingly.

wHAT TO ExPEc T AFTER mIcROdERmABRASIONAfter a light treatment, the skin may feel tight and warm as if

exposed to the sun or wind, and some skins may peel. With mid-depth treatments, slight redness and swelling may appear; with deep treatment levels (like those performed for scar tissue and stretch marks), slight blood spotting may occur. Healing ranges from no time for a light treatment to several days or longer for deep treatments.

Fresh, newly exposed skin will be delicate. It is important for treated clients to wash with only a mild cleanser, to keep their skin well moisturized (particularly around the delicate eye area), and to use a nonchemical, full-spectrum, high-SPF sunblock every day. Retin-A, Renova, and all alpha- and beta- hydroxy products should be avoided, as should all forms of scrubs for at least 48 hours, or until the initial sensitivity has subsided. No foundation make-up should be worn for at least 24 hours after

a treatment, swimming and tanning beds should be avoided for one week or longer.

USINg AcIdS wITH mIcROdERmABRASIONSome experts consider the use of acids with microdermabrasion

to be controversial. However, I have found it to be a very effective combination, and here is why:

Microdermabrasion removes the surface cells of the stratum corneum. And when the powder is thoroughly removed (so that the skin cannot be scratched), newly polished skin is more accepting of acids for further exfoliation, vitamins and minerals for nutrition, lighteners to tone away hyperpigmentation, and hydrators to moisturize. In this manner, microdermabrasion is just another form of exfoliation that is no different than pre-treating with Retin-A, derma-planing, prepping with other acid, or mechanical exfoliants.

However, you should NEVER use acids in conjunction with microdermabrasion if, during the microdermabrasion treatment, you bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding or break the skin in any way. And if you are just a beginner or you are not thoroughly confident, stay away from layering. Layering of any type, whether chemical or mechanical, should be left to those who have the training, experience, and confidence to understand and know the skin and its responses.

16

O x Y g E N

wHAT dO wE KNOw ABOUT Ox YgEN? Oxygen is a life-sustaining element! Without oxygen we will cease to live - no metabolic function, no energy, and no regeneration can occur. O2 availability and utilization in our bodies decreases with age, constantly starving skin cells and tissues of oxygen. Our skin, as the last link within the oxygen capillary system, often does not have enough oxygen for the renewal process of healthy skin cells.

Our bodies are 65% oxygen. When we inhale and exhale there is an exchange of carbon dioxide and oxygen. Oxygen is picked up by the hemoglobin and sent to all the cells in the body.

IS IT REALLY TRUE wE ARE BREATHINg LESS Ox YgEN? Oxygen is the source of life and energy to all cells. There has been much written on the depletion of oxygen in our atmosphere and the inadequate supply the body receives. Unpolluted, normal air contains approximately 21% oxygen, by itself it has no energy; it only becomes activated at the cell level where all metabolic functions happen.

All professionals agree oxygen is essential - there are just different attitudes about ways of receiving it. The medical community has shown and supports the use of hyperbaric oxygen and in fact, it was from actual experiences with burn victims using hyperbaric oxygen that the idea developed to use oxygen on the skin.

This is where the controversy begins - many do not accept the theory that pure oxygen sprayed onto the skin in combination with myscelized nutrients will absorb and affect skin tissue. One primary reason is the delivery system - there must be enough

force to infuse the oxygen and nutrients into the skin. A second reason is the carriers used - oxygen by itself would not penetrate the skin as the molecule is too large, there needs to be a slippery molecule. Thirdly, as mentioned above - oxygen can only be inhaled.

I have read both sides for ten years but have yet to see any real studies done to admonish or support the use of oxygen and nutrients applied topically to the skin.

THIS IS wHAT I KNOw FROm PERSONAL ExPERIENcE ANd OBSERvATION. Accepting the idea that the skin is transdermal and that under the right circumstances topicals will penetrate - for example hormonal creams, nicotine patches, skin renewal serums - why not antioxidants and oxygen? I have applied this modality to thousands of clients and myself for ten years. I have seen moister skin, the appearance of healthier, more glowing skin, and heard the ooohs and ahhhs of happy faces when being sprayed after laser, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, sun burns, and wind burns.

In all these years I have not had one negative reaction to the use of oxygen and vitamins and have not seen any signs of skin deterioration. For myself and my clients the use of oxygen seems to provide another support for combatting the inevitable years of skin aging.

I would say that like other modalities we use, this method is a “tool” used in conjunction with other therapies and will certainly be as supportive as any facial treatment being done. Keep a proper perspective of how useful the right application of oxygen and nutrients will be - for this reason I use the Oxiana System for optimum delivery. Spraying skin with O2 and vitamins is a skin enhancement that is safe and may be used on

17

all skin types after many procedures.

Due to the important changes I have seen using oxygen with chemical peels, I have included it in many of my therapies. There are alternate suggestions if you do not have this and it does not mean you will not be able to do the procedures.

18

F I T z PAT R I c K c L A S S I F I c AT I O N The Fitzpatrick Classification is a useful general guideline, but we must keep in mind that it was devised as a means to calibrate the skin’s responses to sun exposure, with regard to how one might respond to chemical peels and their risk of hyperpigmentation.

I believe that any skin can burn, and any skin tone can develop hyperpigmentation due to estrogen intake, the use of certain medications, sun damage, and post inflammation from chemical peels. So, I make it a point to examine each client’s skin to observe its responses, and I proceed with caution when applying any peeling agent.

cLASSIFIcATION RESPONSE TO UvR SKIN cOLORI Never tans, always burns WhiteII Tans with difficulty, usually burns WhiteIII Average tanning, sometimes burns WhiteIV Easily tans, rarely burns Moderate BrownV Very easy to tan, very rarely burns Hispanic, Latin, African, Asian, IndianVI Never burns Black

19

d O ’ S A N d d O N T ’ S When it comes to working ethically and effectively with acids, there are protocols that you must follow and contraindications for the use of acids.

mUST dO PROTOcOLS: Get appropriate training. (I can’t stress this enough!)

Make sure that you have the appropriate license for your state.

Have professional liability insurance.

In the client consult, do a complete skin assessment and take a skin history.

Get signed consent forms prior to treatment!!!

Perform a patch test at least 48 hours before an acid treatment. You want to know about any possible reactions, allergic or otherwise, AHEAD of time.

Take before-and-after photographs.

Give client an information sheet on treatment.

Give client home-care instructions.

Have client sign sheets stating that he or she has received adequate instructions and understands them.

dO NOT dO: A peel on someone who has not completed aesthetician/client protocols. A peel on the first visit. A peel on someone who is pregnant or lactating. The exception to this is microdermabrasion used without acids. (Some women experience increased discomfort if they have a peel during their menstrual cycle.) A peel on someone who is using Retin-A. The client must be off of Retin-A for two weeks prior to the peel. On someone who is taking Accutane. The client must be off of Accutane for at least six months prior to the peel. A peel on anyone who is under the care or supervision of a physician for his or her skin unless you consult with the physician. A peel on anyone who has high blood pressure, heart disease, diabetes, or any other serious illness without first consulting his or her physician. A peel the same day client has received Botox or other injectable procedures. A peel the same day of waxing or other hair removal services. A peel on anyone who has herpes without carefully discussing possible flare-ups. Determine whether or not the client would like to get a prescription from a physician to control a potential outbreak. Do not use salicylic acid on anyone who is allergic to aspirin or is aspirin sensitive without a patch test.

A peel on anyone who has unrealistic expectations.

20

First and foremost, prior to any treatment, take a moment to clarify your intent. Success is grounded in intent, and your intention should always be to nurture your client’s skin to an optimal state of health and beauty. Before beginning a treatment, as you observe and examine your client’s skin, ask yourself: “What are my client’s needs? Long term? Today? How can I help? What is the best treatment I can give today with complete confidence? Is this a treatment to which my client will be receptive? Is this the treatment that will produce the best possible result for my client?”

Once you have clarified your intent and you know exactly what you need to do to attain the best results, it is important that you:

Make sure that your client is in a semi-reclined position, which keeps the blood from flowing to the head and prevents lightheadedness when the client sits up at the end of the treatment. There also seems to be less heat intensity with this position than when fully reclined. Have a hand-held fan available with extra batteries. Cover client’s eyes with cotton eye pads to prevent any solution from getting into the eyes. Have eye wash handy in case anything does get into the eyes. Wear disposable surgical gloves. Use sterile applicators (brush, gauze, swabs) Have all of the required ingredients laid out and organized. Have a timer.Be prepared in case of a reaction—have ice, cold packs, or cold water as well as anti-inflammatory and anti-itching topicals available. Read protocol thoroughly. Know exactly what you are going to do. When in doubt—don’t do it!!!!

d O ’ S A N d d O N T ’ S

21

A treatment is only as good as the therapist delivering it. This is important to understand and to be aware of the effect your application will have on the outcome of a procedure.

What you use on the skin becomes an extension of you and your natural healing skills. Your focus and approach are critical and begins the moment you place your hands on the client’s face.

I have listed key points that must be considered for optimum results.

Cleanse skin with moistened hands and appropriate cleanser. Eyes are cleansed with a gentle cleanser. The cleansing step must be thorough and complete - covering the entire area of the face, neck, and ears. Removal of cleanser is best when using wet 4x4 gauze - this wipes away and lifts residue and allows you to see how clean the skin is. Feel the skin after cleansing - this gives you information about the texture, oil/moisture, and if you have achieved a squeaky clean surface. Lipid removal is a necessary step in preparing skin for any peel. Pour the solution being used onto a 2” gauze (wear surgical gloves for this applications) and lay the gauze on the forehead, press firmly into skin and pull back across the skin. *Eyes are covered and protected. Always apply acids to a dry surface. Acid application is applied evenly to all areas of skin, unless there is a reason not to, and firm pressure is used. The success of your peel is often due to the pressure applied. Even saturation is important and that is why alternating directions of application are recommended. Removing preparations from the skin thoroughly between steps is the difference between a good peel and irritation/rash. Use wet gauze, hold skin taut, and with a firm touch begin removing the enzyme, mask, or other mixtures from the skin before moving to another step. Rinse several times.

T E c H N I q U E

22

T R E AT m E N T I N T E N S I T I E S All of the treatment procedures that I am using and recommending are considered superficial; they do not penetrate beyond the epidermis or papillary dermis. They are not to be confused with medical or physician-strength peels that affect the reticular dermis. So, when I say a peel is “deep,” I am still referring to a superficial peel. My superficial treatments fall under the following designated intensities: progressive, mid-depth, and deep.

PROgRESSIvE. This refers to a treatment that does not usually cause immediate exfoliation and only removes the stratum corneum. As treatments are repeated, the skin will experience a mild sloughing. For best results, a series of three to six treatments should be performed one to two weeks apart. They can also be used as good “lead-ins” to mid or deep peels.

mId-dEPTH. These peels affect the intra-epidermal layer, and exfoliation occurs within two to three days after application. The skin goes through very little down time. Peeling consists of light flaking similar to a sunburn peel. Mid-depth peels can usually be done monthly for as long as needed.

dEEP. These peels affect the deepest intra-epidermal layers. The skin undergoes considerable peeling, which occurs three to four days after application. The entire process takes about seven to ten days. There is some down time, because generally on days three or four, the skin becomes brown and crusty and somewhat unsightly. The skin peels in large segments as opposed to flaking. These peels can be done six weeks apart,

but it is not recommended to do more than three or four in a year. Deep peels are often used as a prep for medical peels by physicians.

When determining what treatment intensity to use, it is most important to meticulously examine the skin and assess its condition. Other factors to take into consideration include: 1. THE STRENgTH OF THE SOLUTION USEd percentage & pH. The higher the percentage, and the lower the pH, the more intense the treatment solution.

2. THE T YPE OF SKIN whether the skin is thin, thick, oily, acne, sensitive, or hyperpigmented. In general, thin skins respond well to progressive treatment while thick skins may need a mid-depth treatment to achieve exfoliation.

3. THE NUmBER OF TImES THE SKIN has been peeled and the types of peels used.

4. HOmE cARE USE OF AHA S, Retinol, and Retin-A. These topicals tend to make the skin more receptive to acids, thus making a less intense treatment more aggressive. 5. TREATmENT PREPPINg mETHOd an aggressive prep increases the depth of the peel.

6. LENgTH OF TImE solution is left on the skin.

7. AmOUNT OF SOLUTION and even distribution on face.

23

8. mETHOd OF APPLIcATION and the pressure used. Swabbing and using a soft brush will gently lay solution on the skin. How much solution the skin absorbs is totally dependent on the efficacy of the ingredients in the solution. Saturating a gauze with the solution and rubbing it in allows the skin to absorb more of the solution. In most cases I prefer using a gauze and I like distributing solutions with firm, even pressure. I also like to work in a crisscross pattern when layering an acid, because I find this to be an effective way to get an even distribution. I use a soft camel-hair brush with thick mixtures and rely on time for penetration to occur. These thick mixtures are usually self-neutralizing and thus easy to monitor.

24

P R O T O c O L S

cLASSIcS PAgE 1. Alpha Hydroxy Acid Relay 28 2. Quick Fix™ 31 3. Skin Recovery Peel™ 34 4. Lotus Peel 37 5. DN-Age APeel 41

dRY SKIN 6. Perk Me Up™ 44 7. The Refresher Peel™ 47

AgINg SKIN 8. Double Peptide Sake Peel 50 9. Skin Awakening Peel ™ 53 10. "A" Baby Boomer Peel™ 56 11. The Wine Peel™ 59 SENSITIvE SKIN 12. Dermazyme Peel™ 62 13. The Epi Glow Peel™ 65 14. "A" Youthful Source 68

HYPERPIgmENTATION 15. Kojic Clay Lightening Peel 7116. Brighten Up™ 7417. Fade A Peel™ 7718. The Melanin Lift™ 8019. Crystal Bright Peel™ 83

OILY SKIN PAgE 20. The Antiox Peel™ 87 21. Magic Combo™ 90 22. “A” Peroxide Peel™ 93 23. Micro Blast 95 AcNE SKIN 24. The Crystal Clear Peel™ 98 25. The Detox Peel™ 101 26. Kojic Clay TCA Acne 104 27. The Hot Tomato Peel™ 107

mORE PEELS28. Firming & Toning Peel™ 11029. Pumpkin Delight™ 11330. Young Again Peel™ 11631. Paramedical 4-Layer Peel 12032. Italian Herbal Peel™ 12433. Hibiscus Flower Acid Peel 12734. Rosacea Peel™ 13035. Radiance Peel™ 13336. Micro Maui Peel 136

BOdY PEELS37. Wine Luster Body Peel 14038. Pumpkin Body Peel 14339. Retinol Peptide Peel 14640. Micro Body Treatment 149

25

There are no hard and fast rules for what procedure to use in a given situation because every client’s skin is different and responds differently at different times. Use the following table as a starting point; use it as a way to get a better “feel” for what a treatment can do. Some procedures may only have a slight variation - enough to make a difference for that skin type.PRO = progressive; MID = mid-depth.

SKIN T YPE TREATmENT # INTS. PAgE INdIcATION(Not skin tone)

All Alpha Hydroxy Acid Relay 1 PRO 28 Photo-aged, coarse, excess oil, congestion, comedones, combination skin.

All Quick Fix™ 2 MID 31 Thick, oily, coarse, comedones, combination skin.

All Skin Recovery Peel™ 3 DEEP 34 Dull, fine lines, sun pigmentation, thick, oily, coarse, congested, combination skin.

All Lotus Peel 4 DEEP 37 Dull, fine lines, oily, scar tissue, pigmented, normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance.All DN-Age APeel 5 MID 41 Dull, tired, uneven tone, aged, darker combination skin.

Dry Perk Me Up™ 6 PRO 44 Dehydrated, dead skin build-up, no sparkle.

Dry The Refresher Peel™ 7 PRO 47 Dehydrated, fine lines, dull, dry acne, sensitive with visible capillaries, combination skin.

Aging Double Peptide Sake Peel 8 MID 50 Very dehydrated, lacking stimulation, sensitive, combination skin, photo-aged, fine lines.

Aging Skin Awakening Peel™ 9 MID 53 Uneven texture, fine lines, photo-damage, unhealthy skin tone, impure skin.

Aging “A” Baby Boomer Peel™ 10 MID 56 Dull, slackened, fine lines, uneven tone, sensitive with visible capillaries, infected lesions, coarseness, large pores, normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance.

Aging The Wine Peel™ 11 DEEP 59 Lines, wrinkles, needs stimulation, photo-aged, normal skin rejuvenation and maintenance.

T R E AT m E N T S AT A g L A N c E

26


Sensitive Dermazyme Peel™ 12 PRO 62 Dehydration, dull skin tone, redness, fine lines, broken capillaries, rough texture, enlarged pores.Sensitive The Epi Glow Peel™ 13 PRO 65 Tired, dull, dehydrated, combination skin that is not to oily, has enlarged pores and uneven skin tone.

Sensitive "A" Youthful Source 14 PRO 68 Exposed capillaries, young teenage acne, fine lines, dehydration, dull.

Hyperpigmented Kojic Clay Lightening Peel 15 MID 71 Dull, slackened, decreased elasticity, fine lines, large pores, hyperpigmentation.

Hyperpigmented Brighten Up™ 16 PRO 74 Discoloration, dehydration, combination skin, skin that needs lightening, fine lines.

Hyperpigmented Fade A Peel™ 17 PRO 77 Sluggish circulation, sallow skin tone, epidermal pigmentation.

Hyperpigmented The Melanin Lift™ 18 MID 80 Discoloration, uneven tone, oily aged skin, bacteria, discoloration from lesions.

Hyperpigmented Crystal Bright Peel™ 19 DEEP 83 Stubborn pigmented spots, uneven tone, oily, large pores, combination skin.

Oily The Antiox Peel™ 20 PRO 87 Sebaceous, congested, impactions, coarse, thick, photo-damaged.

Oily Magic Combo™ 21 PRO 90 Sebaceous congestion, lesions, continual eruptions, dead skin buildup.

Oily “A” Peroxide Peel™ 22 MID 93 Sebaceous, congested, lacking hydration and stimulation, dull, tired, fine lines.

Oily Micro Blast 23 DEEP 95 Sebaceous, congested, coarse texture, thick, prone to break outs, large pores, uneven skin tone, photo-damaged.

Acne The Crystal Clear Peel™ 24 PRO 98 Acne, oily, congested, impactions, dead skin buildup, flare-ups, unhealthy skin tone.

27


Acne The Detox Peel™ 25 MID 101 Acne, oily, inflamed congested lesions, impactions, dehydrated, unhealthy skin tones.Acne Kojic Clay TCA Acne 26 MID 104 Acne, oily, inflamed congested lesions, dead skin buildup, enlarged pores.

Acne The Hot Tomato Peel™ 27 MID 107 Oily, congested lesions, discoloration, combination skin.

All Skins Firming & Toning Peel™ 28 MID 110 Photo-aged, fine lines, dull complexion, uneven skin tone.

Normal-Oily Pumpkin Delight™ 29 PRO 113 Coarse texture, pigmentation, environmentally damaged.

All Skins Young Again Peel™ 30 DEEP 116 Fine lines, skin impurities, dehydration, excess oil(*Not skin sensitive) production, rough texture, sallow skin tone.

Aging Paramedical 4-Layer Peel 31 MID 120 Scarred, hyperpigmented, fine lines, uneven skin tone, dehydrated.

Comb./Acne Italian Herbal Peel™ 32 PRO 124 Acne, impure, combination skin - oily T zone, dehydrated, pebbly congestion, bacterial-prone, dead skin buildup.

Sensitive Hibiscus Flower Acid Peel 33 PRO 127 Uneven skin tone, oily, photo-aged, dulled, impure, hyperpigmented, sensitive, inflammed, rosacea-prone, uneven texture, uneven skin tone.Sensitive Rosacea Peel™ 34 PRO 130 Broken capillaries, redness, coarse texture, impacted pores, sensitive skin. Aging Radiance Peel™ 35 PRO 133 Rough texture, fine lines, dull skin tone, cellular buildup, slackedned, dehydrated skin.

All Skins Micro Maui Peel 36 PRO 136 Rough texture, fine lines, dull skin tone, cellular build-up, slackened, dehydrated skin. All Skins Wine Luster Body Peel 37 PRO 140 Dry, sun damaged, rough texture, dull skin tone, dehydrated.

All Skins Pumpkin Body Peel 38 PRO 143 Sun damaged, rough texture, dull skin tone, dehydrated.

All Skins Retinol Peptide Peel 39 PRO 146 Photo-aged, sun-damaged, dry, slackened skin, cellular build-up.

All Skins Micro Body Treatment 40 PRO 149 Sun damaged, cellular buildup, uneven texture, dull skin tone.

28

C L A S S I C S

1 . A L P H A H Y d R O x Y A c I d R E L AY

INTENSIT Y: Progressive

INdIcATIONS: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

For AHA loving skin, this quick, easy treatment is beneficial for oily, acne skin, sun-damaged thick skin and smoker’s skin. May be offered in a series of 3 consecutive treatments.

gOALS: Smooth and soften surface build-up. Reduce corneocyte cohesion. Begin the rejuvenation process and assist in loosening impacted comedones. Support the healing of problematic skin. Rejuvenate tired photo-damaged skin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash (or other preferred RA cleanser) 20% Glycolic Acid 25% AHA Gel 20% L-Lactic Acid Omega 6 EFA Rosemary Basil Mask or Honey Paprika Mask Growth Factor Serum, eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30

APPROxImATE TREATmENT TImE: 30 minutes

APPROxImATE cLIENT FEE: $45.00 - $85.00

29

C L A S S I C S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash, and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges.

Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads.

R E L AY O N E Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid, and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids. Continue to work this into the skin with gauze for 1 minute. Remove glycolic solution with tepid water and blot skin dry.

2 . R E L AY T w O Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel. Apply an even amount on entire face and neck. Remove in 3 to 5 minutes. The more a skin has been treated with AHA, the less time it can tolerate. Time is also conditional to skin thickness; a thin skin may only need solution on for 3 minutes, while a thicker skin may be able to tolerate 5 minutes. Rinse skin several times with water for a thorough removal. Blot skin dry and check with client to see if there is any feeling of solution on the skin. The solution must be completely rinsed away. Apply neutralizing solution and make sure removal is complete. If appropriate, may do some light extractions at this time.

30

C L A S S I C S

3 . R E L AY T H R E E Mix 3-4 drops of 20% L-Lactic Acid with 3-4 drops of Omega 6 EFA or Growth

Factor Serum and massage into skin. (Avoid eye area.) Blend into skin with a heated cloth (not too hot) and absorb excess. This remains on skin.

Apply an even layer of Rosemary Basil Mask to skin (Honey Paprika Mask may be used for photo-aged skin) and leave on skin for 10 minutes. Remove completely and blot skin dry.

Finish with the appropriate topical (Growth Factor Serum, eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF 30).

4 . P O S T c A R EMake sure that client is given complete home care instructions.

Makeup may be worn following treatment (natural powdered mineral foundation is recommended). Client should not use harsh scrubs or home care exfoliants for 1 week. Treatment may be repeated weekly or every other week for 3 to 6 weeks. If this is the case, no scrubs or home exfoliants should be used during the entire 3 to 6 weeks. Client should use an Epidermal Growth Factor preparation and sun protection daily!

31

C L A S S I C S

2 . q U I c K F I x ™

INTENSIT Y: Mid-Depth


Overall, this is a safe, effective, and uncomplicated treatment that I have been doing for a long time. It takes a short time to perform and is well tolerated by the client. Although most skin types will benefit, it could be referred to as an “acne tune-up” for problematic, acne-prone skin.

gOALS: Refine and improve skin tone. Minimize fine lines. Start the rejuvenation process with a brisk, light exfoliation. Support the control of acne.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acid Neutralizing Solution (1tsp. baking soda to 1 cup of water or club soda) Melanin Suppressant Solution Salicylic Solution

APPROxImATE TREATmENT TImE: 20 - 30 minutes


32

C L A S S I C S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse thoroughly.

Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical, and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid - apply an even amount on face and neck. Remove in 3 to 5 minutes. The more a skin has been treated with Glycolic Acid, the less time it can tolerate. Therefore, as treatments continue, the amount of time solution will be left on the skin will be less. Time is also conditional to skin thickness; a thin skin may only need solution on for 2 minutes, while a thicker skin may be able to tolerate longer. Apply neutralizing solution (1 tsp. baking soda to 1 cup water or, club soda) and make sure removal is complete. Blot skin dry.

33

C L A S S I C S

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto a 2-inch gauze and apply evenly to face and neck. Let absorb and do not remove.

Saturate 2-inch gauze with Salicylic Solution. Following the recommended crisscross application technique, apply 3 layers of Salicylic Solution to face and only 2 layers to neck. Wait several minutes between layers.

Let these layers absorb. This is a self-neutralizing solution so it remains on the skin. It is best not to apply anything else to the skin; however, sunscreen or powdered minerals may be necessary depending on time of day since skin will be very sun sensitive.

4 . P O S T P E E L The skin may be slightly tender and pink. It is best to do nothing to the skin for the first 12 to 24 hours. Normal cleansing routine may resume the next day. Day 2 TO 3—Client may experience mild exfoliation. Use Growth Factor Gel or Growth Factor Serum. This treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks, for 3 to 4 sessions. If done progressively, be aware that the skin’s ability to absorb Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Solution increases with each application and therefore each peel will be more intense.

34

C L A S S I C S

3 . S K I N R E c O v E R Y P E E L ™

Requires Classroom-Educational Training.

INTENSIT Y: Deep


This peel uses two variations of TCA solutions. The first layers begin the process of cell desquamation with low strength acids – the final peel solution works hard to break down damaged skin cells and inhibit tyrosinase activity.

gOALS: Stimulate and encourage new cell regeneration. Smooth and soften fine lines. Begin the repair of photo-damaged skin. Lighten skin tone. Improve the overall tone and health of the skin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash 20% Glycolic Acid Melanin Suppressant Solution 10% TCA/AHA Salicylic Solution



35

C L A S S I C S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse well.

Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid, and apply to skin with firm pressure for the removal of excess lipids. Remove in 2 to 3 minutes with warm water and gauze.

2 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. In a glass beaker, mix 1 dropper of Melanin Suppressant Solution with 4-5 droppers of 10% TCA/AHA. Using the crisscross technique, apply 3 layers of acid and lightening mixture:

LAYER 1: Saturate 2-inch gauze with 10% TCA Solution and apply a layer in one direction; let it absorb for about 30 seconds. LAYER 2: Re-saturate gauze and apply a layer in the opposite direction. LAYER 3: Apply a final layer of 10% TCA Solution in the same direction as the first layer. Observe skin and wait about 2 minutes before removal.

Using two - 4” gauze dampened with water, begin rinsing acid from skin. The purpose is to rub away loosened skin cells before final peel application. Blot skin dry before using next acid. IMPORTANT: Be sure you are observing skin responses and know it is okay to continue. ONCE SKIN BEGINS TO FROST, STOP APPLYING LAYERS. LAYER 4: Apply a layer of Salicylic Solution to the skin. Let absorb into skin. Observe skin before proceeding.

36

C L A S S I C S

Continue an alternating pattern with final 2 layers of Salicylic Solution. All layers remain on the skin. This is the end of the treatment; apply a thin layer of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve under eyes and on lips.

3 . P O S T P E E LMake sure that client is given complete home care instructions.

DAY 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Lubricate skin with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment/Pro Salve. DAY 2—Skin will be red and tender and will feel dry and tight; continue to apply Post Balm/Pro Salve. DAY 3 TO 5—Skin will start to turn darker in color, and exfoliation will take place. Continue with lubricating post care until skin begins to peel. NOTE: If client has swelling or itching, include Calming Skin Gel to add to post care and for excessive redness/heat recommend Sea Gems. When skin does begin to peel, apply Epidermal Growth Factor, if it has a stinging sensation to new tender skin – mix with Arnica Therapy or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment to reduce tingle until the skin is used to it. DAY 6 AND 7—The Client will wear Regenerating Cream, Growth Factor Gel or Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Call your client within 24 hours. Post follow-up visit is an absolute must.

37

C L A S S I C S

4 . LO T U S P E E L

Requires Classroom-Educational Training.

INTENSIT Y: Deep

INdIcATIONS: For any skin type that falls under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick III classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page

17).

This is a custom peel formula that is a version of the original Jessner. The name comes from the Lotus Flower root that is a free radical scavenger and promotes lightening; additionally, a patented natural amino acid compound that performs well in a low pH is part of the solution. Active acids are Salicylic and Resorcinol and D-Gluconic Acid.

gOALS: Diminish and smooth fine lines. Brighten and lighten skin. Improve texture and tone. The overall outcome is a healthier, more vibrant skin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Hibiscus Peel 10% TCA/AHA Lotus Peel


APPROxImATE cLIENT FEE: $275.00

38

C L A S S I C S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Do a second cleanse if necessary. Rinse with tepid water. Blot skin dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin with very firm pressure. Give client hand-held fan; this lotion may get very warm for about 1-2 minutes. Skin will redden. Do not be alarmed. Let remain on skin – do not remove.

Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Hibiscus Peel and apply evenly to face and neck. Let absorb into skin and wait 2-3 minutes before beginning peel application.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Saturate 2-inch gauze with the 10% TCA/AHA and apply evenly to face and neck. Let absorb into skin and wait 2-3 minutes then brush away with slightly damp gauze.

39

C L A S S I C S

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour a small amount of Lotus Peel into a glass beaker: use a firm brush for the first layer. Be aware of excess solution—do not drip on client! Starting at forehead, apply an even application of solution. Make sure that you evenly distribute solution on skin. Let this absorb – wait 30 seconds between layers. Continue application with 2-inch gauze saturated with Lotus Peel. Apply four to eight layers with the crisscross technique.

Apply one layer in one direction; let it absorb for about 30 seconds. Second layer is in opposite direction. Apply third layer in the same direction as first and continue with this technique.

Observe skin and wait about 30 seconds to begin fourth layer. (Once the skin begins to frost, STOP applying layers.) NOTE: Do not do more than 3 layers on the neck; this is a more vulnerable area to toxicity and over saturation. If more peeling is desired, finish neck with a thin layer of Vitamin A + Peptide Peel. Never do more than 8 layers. Lubricate eye area and lips with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. This remains on the skin. Have client sit up and wait for about 15 minutes before leaving.

40

C L A S S I C S


DAY 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Apply Post Balm LubricatingOintment or Pro Salve on face and neck. Arnica Therapy is very soothing and reduces discomfort and inflammation. Calming Skin Gel will reduce itching and may be mixed in with any post care topical.

DAY 2—Skin will be red and tender and will feel dry and tight; client may continue using Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve.

Day 3 TO 5—Skin will start to turn darker in color, and exfoliation will take place. Day 3 TO 7— Client will wear Regenerating Cream (EGF) or Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Day 7 -– Post follow-up visit is an absolute must.

41

C L A S S I C S

5 . d N - A g E A P E E L



This is a multi-layered peel using 3 different peels. It is a great treatment to include décolleté for total rejuvenation; in particular, this peel trio impacts skin at a cellular level to reverse aging.

gOALS: Create a superficial exfoliation that renews and freshens the skin. Help smooth and even skin tone and balance oil production. Support repair of cellular damage and increase collagen production.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Hibiscus Peel Lotus Peel Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel



42

C L A S S I C S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash, and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges. Do a second cleanse if necessary. Rinse with tepid water. Blot skin dry. Give client hand-held fan and put on surgical gloves for the remaining treatment steps. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Fruit Acid Botanical, and apply to face and neck with very firm pressure to decrease the skin.

Let this remain on the skin. Wait 1 to 2 minutes before the peel application.

2 . H I B I S c U S P E E L Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a beaker and saturate 2” gauze with peel mixture. Apply 1 even layer to face, neck, décolleté. Let this absorb and remain on skin.

3 . LO T U S P E E L Pour Lotus Peel into a beaker and using a firm brush apply one even layer to face, neck, and décolleté. Let this fully absorb and observe skin. This peel is not designed to frost; however, if it does in one layer, it is recommended to not do the final application.

43

C L A S S I C S

4 . v I TA m I N A + P E P T I d E P E E L Remove a small amount of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel and apply an even layer to entire area being treated. Work into skin with gloved hands until almost completely gone. This remains on the skin. Have client sit up for about 5 minutes before leaving.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 - The skin may feel tight and be slightly pink; client will apply Arnica Therapy and Daytime Defense SPF30. Day 2 to 4 - As the skin becomes dryer and tighter, client may want to apply Post Balm or Pro Salve. Day 5 to 7 - There will be mild exfoliation. Begin use of Growth Factor Serum mixed with Arnica or Post Balm. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for two weeks. Call client within 24 hours and do a post peel follow-up in 7-10 days. This treatment may be repeated in 4 to 6 weeks. TIP: After the peel is complete, have client use Peptide 38 and Sea Gems for continued regeneration.

44

D R Y S K I N

6 . P E R K m E U P ™



This is a great, quick and easy treatment that makes a real difference in the skin. Using wine extracts and AHA, the skin takes on a renewed glow and sparkle.

gOALS: Give skin a boost, adding nutrients and hydration. Remove surface skin cells to smooth and soften skin. Infuse skin with antioxidants.

INgREdIENTS: Citrus Gel Cleanser / 20% L-Lactic Acid Apple Wine Peel Oxiana Oxygen Spray / Vitamins or Pumpkin E Serum and Milk Mask Ice Globes Therapy E Serum / Sea Gems Daytime Defense SPF30



45

D R Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Squeeze Citrus Gel Cleanser into hand and add a dropper of 20% L-Lactic Acid. Cleanse thoroughly, working into skin for several minutes. Rinse well and blot skin dry.

2 . A P P L E w I N E P E E L Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Pour Apple Wine Peel into a beaker and saturate 2-inch gauze with solution. Apply to skin with firm pressure. Continue to smooth acid into skin for about 3 minutes. Apply 1 more layer of Apple Wine Peel, set timer and remove in 5 minutes. Rinse and remove from skin with tepid water and gauze sponge. Rinse skin several times to insure a thorough removal. Blot skin dry.

3 . L A c T I c A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply a liberal amount to face and neck. Client’s skin will feel tingly and prickly. Leave it on for 5-7 minutes. Remove 20% L- Lactic Acid with wet gauze and flush skin with tepid water.

46

D R Y S K I N

N U T R I E N T A P P L I c AT I O N — O P T I O N 1 Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamin Solution for 5-10 minutes. Saturate every pore. Lightly blend in Sea Gems and Therapy E Serum. Finish with Daytime Defense SPF30.

N U T R I E N T A P P L I c AT I O N — O P T I O N 2 Massage skin with Pumpkin E Serum for as long as desired. Lay heated gauze on skin to remove excess oil. Scoop out 2 tsps. of cooled Milk Mask using a soft brush to spread on an even layer. Lay 4-inch gauze on upper and lower face. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin for several minutes. Wrap face and neck with a hot compress. Mask remains on skin for 10 minutes. Remove with tepid water and finish skin with Therapy E Serum, Sea Gems, and Daytime Defense SPF30.

4 . P O S T P E E L Skin will be glowing and moist. Makeup may be worn if so desired. Natural mineral foundation is suggested. Instruct client to use a Growth Factor preparation and Sunscreen daily. Client may continue usual home care regimen. However, depending on skin condition and ultimate skin care goal, it is not recommended for your client to use scrubs or home care acids such as AHA and retinol. Usually, these topicals are not used during the time (1 - 3 months) treatments are being administered.

47

D R Y S K I N

7 . T H E R E F R E S H E R P E E L ™


INdIcATIONS: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick V (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

This treatment utilizes three key components – increasing blood flow to improve sluggish circulation, mechanical exfoliation, and saturation of tissue with pure oxygen. It has regenerating, antibacterial, and lightening properties.

gOALS: Improve skin tone and lighten pigmentation. Stimulate cellular activity. Hydrate and smooth complexion.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser H2O2 Emulsion Microdermabrasion Citrus Gel Cleanser / 20% L-Lactic Acid MVC Serum / Omega 6 EFA Natural Lift Activator Oxiana Oxygen Spray / Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Antioxidant Complex Serum / Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30



48

D R Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser, and rinse well. Repeat cleanse step – working cleanser deeper into skin. Rinse well. Blot skin dry. Remove 1 tsp. of H2O2 Emulsion (be sure to burp container before flipping top as pressure builds with this mixture). Apply a thin layer to face and neck, avoid eyes, and let remain on skin for 5 minutes. Rinse well with warm water a couple times; blot skin dry before proceeding to next step.

2 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Prepare client for microdermabrasion - place drops in eyes; cover hair and ears. Do 1 - 2 complete passes. Do not bring to pinpoint bleeding. Steam and massage skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser; buff skin with corundum powder. Rinse skin with warm water. Be sure to remove all the powder. Blot skin dry and brush away any excess.

49

D R Y S K I N

3 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N Cover client’s eyes with eye pads and give client the hand fan. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply a liberal amount to face and neck. Client’s skin will feel tingly and prickly. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes. I like to work this into skin – wear a surgical glove. Remove 20% L-Lactic Acid and flush skin with tepid water. Blot dry.

4 . N U T R I E N T A P P L I c AT I O N Apply cocktail of MVC Serum and Omega 6 EFA and blend into skin. Cover face with sterile gauze soaked in Natural Lift Activator (humectant) and wrap face and neck with a heated, wet compress. Remove towel and gauze in 5 minute. OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamin Solution. Mix 2 drops of Antioxidant Complex Serum and 2 drops of Growth Factor Serum, apply to skin and finish with Daytime Defense SPF30.

5 . P O S T P E E L Skin will be glowing and moist. Makeup may be worn if so desired. Natural mineral foundation is suggested. Client may continue usual home care regimen. However, depending on skin condition and ultimate skin care goal, you must assess if it is safe and appropriate for your client to use home care acids such as AHAs and retinol. This makes a good series treatment or monthly treatment. Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free, make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reactions.

50

A G I N G S K I N

8 . d O U B L E P E P T I d E S A K E P E E L

INTENSIT Y: Moderate Mid-Depth


When working with Fitzpatrick IV and higher, there are no absolutes - always begin slowly and proceed with caution. This is a blend of two new RA formulations, the Sake Peel and Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel and is good for all skin types.

gOALS: Firm slackened tissue. Improve skin tone and texture. Balance hydration and sebaceous activity. Minimize fine lines.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash or Pumpkin Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Cell Conditioner Sake Peel Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel



51

A G I N G S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash or Pumpkin Cleanser, work into skin for several minutes and rinse well. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and go over skin with firm pressure. The purpose is to lift sebum from pores and degrease skin.

2 . P R E - P E E L Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. Let this absorb and remain on skin.

3 . S A K E P E E L Give client the hand fan. Be sure eyes are protected and client is in a semi- reclined position. Pour a small amount of Sake Peel into a glass beaker. Using a firm brush, apply one even layer to face and neck. Let this absorb and wait about 1-2 minutes to observe skin. LAYER 2 – Dip 2-inch gauze into beaker and saturate, apply an even layer with firm pressure to skin. LAYER 3 – Repeat another layer, only apply in the opposite direction for thorough saturation. Let solution process and absorb. NOTE: If there is any irritation, unusual swelling, rash, or extreme frosting, DO NOT continue with step 4.

52

A G I N G S K I N

4 . v I TA m I N A + P E P T I d E P E E L Smooth an even layer of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel onto face and neck. Do not overwork into skin. Let this remain on skin overnight.

5 . P O S T P E E L Instruct client to avoid sun exposure and not to pick skin. Client may use Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy or Drop of Essence Hydration Drops the first 3 days. Make-up may be worn if desired (recommend natural pigment mineral foundation). When exfoliation begins (mild flaking) client will use an Epidermal Growth Factor. To assist removal of skin, on DAY 4-5 client may use Derma Peel at home. Client may continue with usual home regimen you have recommended. No cell rejuvenators - AHAs, retinol, beta acid - these products should not be used during treatment program. Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free, make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reactions (rash, hives, itchiness, swelling, irritation).

53

A G I N G S K I N

9 . S K I N AwA K E N I N g P E E L ™

INTENSIT Y: Aggressive Progressive to Mid Depth


With dark skin tones there are no absolutes; start slowly and proceed with caution. This is a good peel to reduce cellular build-up, give skin a brisk exfoliation and strengthen skin tissue resulting in a healthier, more alive skin. The Liquid Enzyme Peel is very unique and has fast-acting results in loosening and digesting dead skin cells.

gOALS: Gradually take the skin to a more optimal state of health and improved appearance. As the name suggests, skin will be awakened and have a more youthful glow. Improves impure skin conditions, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. (This treatment may be done monthly for continued rejuvenation.)

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser Brightening Scrub 25% AHA Gel Liquid Enzyme Peel Vitamin A Peel Omega 6 EFA



54

A G I N G S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse well. Massage skin with a generous amount of Brightening Scrub for several minutes. Remove completely with warm water and gauze; brush away excess beads.

2 . P R E P A P P L I c AT I O N Cover client’s eyes with eye pads. Saturate 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply evenly to skin. Work this into skin with gauze for about 1-2 minutes. Rinse skin with tepid water and gauze sponges. Do 2 rinses for a thorough removal. Blot skin dry. Skin will feel silky and smooth.

3 . L I q U I d E N z Y m E P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand fan. Pour Liquid Enzyme Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer with a firm brush. Smooth in evenly. Wait 5 minutes. Apply 2nd layer - saturate 2-inch gauze with Liquid Enzyme Peel and apply to face and neck. Wait 5 minutes. Rinse skin with warm water and gauze sponges. This will activate mixture and it becomes hotter. Rinse skin several times and pat dry.

55

A G I N G S K I N

4 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Drop several drops of Vitamin A Peel onto skin and blend in. Smooth in 3-4 drops of Omega 6 EFA. This is to remain on skin overnight and should be explained prior to peel.

5 . P O S T P E E L Skin will have a slight yellow tone and feel somewhat tacky. Nothing is done to skin the first 24 hours. The following morning, client may do a mild cleanse, apply Growth Factor Serum or Serum Plus with Elite eEGF and Daytime Defense SPF30 for more mature skins. Normal to combination skin may use Growth Factor Gel and eZinc Protection Cream. Caution: Even though these treatments are relatively risk free, make sure to observe the skin for any indication of reaction. NOTE: If skin is tight or sensitive – recommend Pro Salve or Arnica Therapy.

56

A G I N G S K I N

1 0 . "A" B A B Y B O O m E R P E E L ™



I have done this peel on myself for several years and love it! Good treatment for chest. One of our most popular mid-depth peels.

gOALS: Create a light, superficial exfoliation and stimulation of the skin to: Improve and firm skin tone. Minimize fine lines and pores. Reduce pigmentation.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser / Brightening Scrub 20% L-Lactic Acid TCA/Salicylic Acid Vitamin A Peel



57

A G I N G S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse and buff skin with a mixture of Pumpkin Cleanser and Brightening Scrub. Work into skin in circular motions for thorough cleansing. Remove with warm water. Blot skin dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to skin with firm, even pressure. Work into skin with fingertips, lifting away surface build-up. Remove with warm water and gauze sponges. Do several rinses to be sure you remove ALL of the acid. Blot skin dry with a tissue.

2 . A P P L I c AT I O N # 1 O F P E E L Hand client a fan, cover eyes with eye pads, and have in a semi-reclined position. Pour a small amount of TCA/Salicylic Acid into a glass beaker. Apply the first layer with a firm brush and smooth evenly onto skin. When using a brush, be sure you have control of the acid solution so that none drips. Let the first layer absorb and wait about 60 seconds. After the first application, watch for frosting - if you see any, only do that 1 application. If more layers are applied, use 2-inch gauze saturated with acid. Apply with firm pressure evenly. If another layer is appropriate (no frosting or signs of irritation) place it on skin in the opposite direction of the prior layer. Let TCA/Salicylic Acid absorb into skin and do not remove.

58

A G I N G S K I N

3 . A P P L I c AT I O N # 2 O F P E E L Apply Vitamin A Peel directly to the skin. With gloved hands, smooth into skin (do not overwork). The skin will appear slightly yellow in color. This is normal. Leave on skin overnight.

4 . P O S T P E E L Client may cleanse skin the following morning with the appropriate cleanser. No harsh scrubs should be used. After cleansing, the client may apply Sea Gems, Regenerating Cream (EGF), and Daytime Defense SPF30. If needed, Arnica Therapy is soothing and reduces inflammation and discomfort for the first few days. Skin will begin exfoliation in 2 - 3 days. Caution: Do not use this peel on skins darker than Fitzpatrick IV. Doing so may risk hyperpigmentation. NOTE: There may be some exceptions to this, but always add Melanin Suppressant Solution to acid and place Melanin Suppressant Solution on skin prior to Vitamin A Peel. People allergic or sensitive to aspirin or vitamin A derivatives may not be able to have this peel.

59

A G I N G S K I N

1 1 . T H E w I N E P E E L ™

INTENSIT Y: Moderate Deep

INdIcATIONS: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick III (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

This peel is a revised version of The French Peel. It utilizes similar acids from wine and includes an enzyme and TCA.

gOALS: Rejuvenate - minimize lines and wrinkles and improve tone and texture. Regenerate. Stimulate collagen production resulting in a hydrated, healthier, more vibrant skin.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser or Glycolic Herbal Washb Brightening Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical Liquid Enzyme Peel 10% TCA/AHA Apple Wine Peel Sea Gems



60

A G I N G S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Pumpkin Cleanser or Glycolic Herbal Wash. NOTE: I work with both of these cleansers a lot – for more degreasing, I prefer the Glycolic Herbal Wash for most all skin types. Lather and work in well. Rinse skin with warm water using gauze sponges. Buff skin with Brightening Scrub for several minutes. Rinse, remove completely and dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and go over the entire face and neck with firm strokes. Wait 1 minute.

2 . E N z Y m E A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Pour a small amount of Liquid Enzyme Peel into glass beaker and brush onto skin. Leave on skin for 5 minutes. Remove with a warm gauze sponge. Rinse well and pat skin dry.

3 . T c A A P P L I c AT I O N On completely dry skin, smooth one layer of 10% TCA/AHA. Let this absorb into skin and wait about 60 seconds.

61

A G I N G S K I N

4 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Put on your surgical gloves Pour Apple Wine Peel into a glass beaker and brush 1 layer onto skin. Be sure to have control of solution and do not let it drip. Protect eyes, ears, and mouth. Wait 5 minutes and apply 2nd layer. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Apple Wine Peel and begin applying with firm pressure at the forehead. Make sure your application is evenly distributed on the entire face and neck. Watch skin very closely. If there is no frosting, a 3rd layer may be applied. After 3rd layer – give skin 5 minutes to process. The skin will begin to blanch (usually 3 - 5 minutes). Rinse with cool water (club soda is great) and continue to do a few more rinses. Finish skin with Sea Gems or spray down with Oxygen and Vitanomes cut in half.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will feel hot and sensitive to the touch. Client should not apply anything to the skin for the first 24 hours. NOTE: If necessary, Pro Salve may be applied to eye area and lips and any areas that are very tight. Sea Gems may be used to soothe and reduce heat. Day 2 to 3—Skin will be slightly red and tight. Client may lubricate skin by covering with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. If not too tight but uncomfortable, Arnica Therapy will reduce inflammation and pain. Days 4 to 6—This is usually when skin begins to exfoliate. Client may cleanse with appropriate cleanser and apply Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day. Client must wear sun protection daily. Day 7—Return for follow-up visit.

62

S E N S I T I V E S K I N

1 2 . d E R m A z Y m E P E E L ™



Rejuvenation for sensitive skin. Appropriate for sensitive skins with broken capillaries and skin prone to redness and irritation or slightly sensitive tendency with coarse texture and impacted pores.

gOALS: Rejuvenate skin. Soften fine lines and reduce enlarged pores. Strengthen underlying integrity of the skin and reduce redness. Increase moisture retention. Give skin an overall healthier and more youthful appearance.

INgREdIENTS: Citrus Gel Cleanser Beta Green Tea Cleanser Pepsin & Papain Enzyme Microdermabrasion Machine 20% L-Lactic Acid Milk Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask Regenerating Cream / Daytime Defense SPF30



63


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser—create a lather by massaging in well. You want to remove all surface residue and makeup. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze sponges. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Rinse with warm water. Blot skin dry.

2 . E N z Y m E A P P L I c AT I O N Place about 1 Tbs. of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme into a glass beaker. Apply evenly to skin with a camel-hair brush. Let remain on skin for 8 - 10 minutes with light steam or hot towel wrap. Remove with warm water and sponges.

3 . P R E - T R E AT m E N T Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Lactic Acid. Go over skin for further removal of surface residue. Rinse with warm water and gauze sponges.

4 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Follow standard microdermabrasion preparation guidelines. Do 1- 2 passes of microdermabrasion. You want to achieve a light buffing effect. Do not over-peel! Remove corundum powder with cool, wet gauze sponges. Cleanse skin with Citrus Gel and a small amount of 20% Lactic Acid mixed together for final removal of powder. Rinse well. Pat skin dry.

64


5 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N NOTE: If there are any signs of irritation, apply Calming Skin Gel and go over skin with Ice Globes. Do not apply mask. Apply chilled Milk Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask to skin. Lay 2 dampened 4-inch gauze on upper and lower half of face and roll Ice Globes over skin for several minutes. Remove mask in 10 minutes with tepid water and gauze sponges. Blend Regenerating Cream and Daytime Defense SPF30 and apply to skin.


Makeup may be worn following treatment (natural powdered mineral foundation is recommended). Client should not use harsh scrubs or home care exfoliants for 1 week. Treatment may be repeated weekly or every other week for 3 to 6 weeks. If this is the case, no scrubs or home exfoliants should be used during the entire 3 to 6 weeks. Client should use an Epidermal Growth Factor preparation and sun protection daily!

65


1 3 . T H E E P I g LO w P E E L ™



For clients with normal to dry to combination, oily skin who want a smooth polish with as minimal exfoliation. This treatment uses the modality, epidermal leveling (also referred to as dermal resurfacing). If this is not applicable for your area, you will leave this step out.

gOALS: Strengthen skin. Improve hydration for dull, tired skin. Smooth texture and reduce enlarged pores.

INgREdIENTS: Gylcolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling (Dermal Resurfacing) Derma Peel Pepsin & Papain Enzyme / H2O2 Emulsion Grape Seed Parfait Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask or Milk Mask Antioxidant Complex Serum / Growth Factor Serum / Daytime Defense SPF30



66


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Gylcolic Herbal Wash —create lather by massaging in well. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure apply to skin to remove residual oils. Dry skin with hand held fan.

2 . E P I d E R m A L L E v E L I N g ( d E R m A L R E S U R FA c I N g ) Begin Dermal Resurfacing (Epidermal Leveling). CAUTION: If any tears or cuts occur on skin do not continue with rest of treatment.

3 . E N z Y m E A P P L I c AT I O N Scoop 1/2 tsp. of Derma Peel and apply to dry face. Massage into skin – gel will change to a watery consistency and then will form tiny granules. Continue to massage for 5-7 minutes. Remove with warm water and soft gauze sponges. Feel the skin for enzyme residue; make sure to remove it all.

4 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Mix an even amount of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme and H2O2 Emulsion and apply to face and neck with a firm brush. Light steam may be used. Remove in 10 minutes with tepid water and gauze sponges. Light extractions may be done at this time. After extractions, go over skin with Beta Green Tea Lotion to eliminate bacteria.

67


5 . m A S K A P P L I c AT O N Select one of the following masks: Grape Seed Parfait Mask, Rosemary Basil Mask, or Milk Mask. These are great soothing, hydrating and purifying masks after this type of treatment. Apply mask to face and neck with a firm brush. Place cool pads on eyes; cover face with damp gauze and massage with Ice Globes. Remove mask in 10 minutes and finish treatment with Antioxidant Complex Serum, an Epidermal Growth Factor and Daytime Defense SPF30.

6 . P O S T c A R E Makeup may be worn immediately. Have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor and Antioxidant Complex Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30 every day. Have client avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants. Treatment may be repeated in 1 week.

68


1 4 . “A” Y O U T H F U L S O U R c E

INTENSIT Y: Aggressive/Progressive


Good for most all skin types for a quick, easy series program, this treatment is very effective for many skin conditions. But don’t let it fool you, it can be potent so monitor skin. Be cautious with sensitive, reactive or rosacea prone skins.

gOALS: Strengthen the integrity of the skin. Subdue the fragility of capillaries. Reduce fine lines and wrinkle formation. Minimize acne.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser Hibiscus Peel Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel Omega 6 EFA



69


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Pumpkin Cleanser—create a lather by massaging in well. Steam may be used. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze sponges. Do a second cleanse with Pumpkin Cleanser and work in for a deeper cleanse. Thoroughly remove by rinsing with tepid water and gauze.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Saturate 2-inch gauze with Hibiscus Peel and apply a generous amount evenly to face and neck. Avoid eye area. Let remain on skin.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Apply Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel directly to the skin with a dropper (approximately 3 droppers). With gloved hands, smooth into skin (do not overwork). The skin will appear slightly yellow in color. This is normal. Lay cellophane over upper and lower half of face. Wrap a heated wet compress on skin – do not press in – let this remain for 10 minutes. Remove heated wrap and cellophane. Place several drops of Omega 6 EFA in hands and massage onto skin to work in Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel. Most of the “A” will be worked into the skin by the time you are finished. Let this remain on skin overnight.

70


4 . P O S T P E E L No harsh scrubs. Peeling may continue for up to 10 days and skin may experience more than one peeling. Avoid extreme temperature changes (this includes hot showers). Day 2 TO 4 - There will be mild to aggressive flaking in about 2-4 days – for up to 10 days. Recommend Arnica Therapy and Calming Skin Gel the first few days and Epidermal Growth Factor with Sea Gems through the rest of the process. For continued results, do 3 treatments 2 weeks apart. Skin should be peeled and healed. After this, treatment may be repeated once a month.

71

H Y P E R P I G M E N T A T I O N

1 5 . K O J I c c L AY L I g H T E N I N g P E E L



This is an easy peel to do since it is applied as a mask and does not require pressure. With minimal layering, this peel is great for most any skin type.

gOALS: Brighten and lighten the skin. Smooth coarse texture. Soften and minimize lines. Increase cellular production. Support the strengthening and integrity of the skin by increasing collagen and elastin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Brightening Pigment Lotion 10% TCA/AHA Melanin Suppressant Solution Kojic Clay TCA Sea Gems



72


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash. Lather and work into the skin to remove surface debris. Rinse thoroughly. Go over the skin with Fruit Acid Botanical using 2-inch gauze and firm pressure (make sure you have your surgical gloves on). Client may feel more comfortable with a hand-held fan at this point. After absorption of prior prep, apply one layer of Brightening Pigment Lotion with 2-inch gauze. Let this remain on skin. Cover client’s eyes with eye pads. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 10% TCA/AHA. Apply 2 layers to the skin in a crisscross application waiting 1 - 2 minutes between layers. Use firm pressure and make sure the same amount of solution is applied all over the face to assure even penetration and distribution. Caution: Observe the skin for allergic reactions. Look for signs of swelling and/or raised rash-like appearance. If you see any, STOP the procedure! Wait until discomfort has ceased and then go over skin with Ice Globes for several minutes. Finish with an application of Calming Skin Gel.

2 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N With a tongue depressor, place a level teaspoon of the Kojic Clay TCA and one dropper Melanin Suppressant Solution into a glass beaker. Apply to face and neck using a firm brush. Give client hand-held fan, as mixture becomes very hot on the skin. Leave mask on skin for 10 minutes.

73


3 . R E m O vA L Use 4-inch disposable gauze sponges and tepid water. With firm pressure, holding the skin taut, wipe away mixture a section at a time. NOTE: Applying wet warm compresses to skin may soften mixture and make removal easier. Rinse well with tepid water. Finish treatment with Sea Gems, this will immediately provide soothing comfort for your client and reduce heat.

4 . P O S T P E E L Make sure that client is given complete home care instructions. Day 1 – Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Lubricate with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve. Day 2 - A basic cleanse and Post Balm Lubrication Ointment or Pro Salve, skin will feel dry and tight. Day 3 TO 4 - Skin will begin to exfoliate. Mix Post Balm Lubricating Ointment and Regenerating Cream (EGF) or other Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day after cleansing. Continue with Epidermal Growth Factor and Daytime Defense SPF30, mild cleansing – no scrubs.

74


1 6 . B R I g H T E N U P ™


INdIcATIONS: For all skin types with hyperpigmentation that fall under the Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick VI classifications (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

A great starter peel for new clients. Good stimulation, mild cell turnover, and gives skin a brightened glow.

gOALS: Lightens pigment and softens fine lines. Improves the overall tone and texture of skin.

INgREdIENTS: Skin Brightening Cleanser / Brightening Scrub Pepsin & Papain Enzyme Brightening Pigment Lotion Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel



75


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Skin Brightening Cleanser and Brightening Scrub. Rinse well and blot skin dry.

2 . E N z Y m E A P P L I c AT I O N Scoop out 2 tsps. of Pepsin & Papain Enzyme into a glass beaker, and brush on face and neck. Lay 2 opened 4-inch gauze on upper and lower half of face and wrap face with a hot towel. Let remain on skin for 10 minutes. Remove enzyme with warm water and gauze sponge. Mild extractions may be done at this time if necessary. Go over skin with Brightening Pigment Lotion and let absorb and dry.

3 . L I g H T E N I N g A N d v I TA m I N A A P P L I c AT I O N Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto 2-inch gauze and using firm pressure, apply evenly to pigmented areas. Let this prep solution remain on the skin. Spread an even amount of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel on face and neck and blend in carefully. Let this remain on the skin overnight or for less peeling, remove from skin with warm cloth in 20 minutes.

76


4 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Client may cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser. To sustain pigmentation, I suggest a mixture of Brightening Cream Enhanced and Regenerating Cream (EGF). Daytime Defense SPF30 may be applied over mixture. When exfoliation begins, continue with Regenerating Cream twice a day. Sunscreen should be worn daily. Treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks. For stubborn pigmentation, recommend client use Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum nightly.

77


1 7 . FA d E A P E E L ™



With dark skin tones there are no absolutes. Start slowly and proceed with caution. This is a good peel to increase circulation, brighten skin tone and smooth and soften skin.

gOALS: Gradually (in 3 -6 treatments) take the skin to a more optimal state of health and improve

appearance of hyperpigmentation. (This treatment may be repeated every three weeks for best results.)

INgREdIENTS: Skin Brightening Cleanser Brightening Scrub H2O2 Emulsion Lotus Peel Arnica Therapy / Super C Serum / Growth Factor Serum Plus Daytime Defense SPF30



78


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse thoroughly with Skin Brightening Cleanser and rinse well. Massage skin with a generous amount of Brightening Scrub for several minutes. Remove thoroughly with warm water and brush away excess beads.

2 . H 2 O 2 A P P L I c AT I O N Cover client’s eyes with eye pads. Squeeze 2 tsps. of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a soft firm brush. Mixture has a slight burning sensation that usually subsides quickly. If client is sensitive to this sensation, give hand-held fan for a few minutes before applying cellophane and heat. Cover face with cellophane. (Don’t forget to leave mouth and nose uncovered for breathing!) A vapor of steam may be used in place of cellophane covering. Wrap face with a heated compress. Let remain on skin for 7 - 10 minutes. This is a good time to do a neck and shoulder massage. Remove towel and cellophane and rinse away mixture with warm gauze sponges. Blot skin dry. If there are any signs of sensitivity or reaction, STOP here.

79


3 . LO T U S P E E L L I g H T E N I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Pour a small amount of Lotus Peel into glass beaker. Using a firm brush, apply 1 even layer to skin. Let this absorb and remain on skin.

4 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N c O c K TA I L Mix Super C Serum (about 2-3 drops) and Growth Factor Serum Plus with Arnica Therapy and blend into skin for a few minutes. Let this remain on skin. Apply a generous layer of Daytime Defense SPF30 prior to client leaving.

5 . P O S T P E E L Skin will be glowing and moist. Natural mineral pigment foundation may be worn immediately if so desired. Client may continue usual home care regimen (Brightening Cream Enhanced with Growth Factor Serum is recommended) with the exception of AHA, salicylic, or retinol use; these products should not be used during treatment time.

80


1 8 . T H E m E L A N I N L I F T ™



One of our most popular and effective peels for an easy, quick approach to pigment reduction.

gOALS: Lighten discoloration, making skin tone more even. Improve texture and tone. Reduce wrinkle formation and impurities.

INgREdIENTS: Skin Brightening Cleanser Brightening Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical 15% TCA/AHA Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A Peel



81


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Skin Brightening Cleanser. Remove and do a second cleanse with Brightening Scrub. Rinse well. Wear surgical gloves and give client the hand-held fan. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure, apply to face and neck. Leave on skin.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour 15% TCA/AHA onto a 2-inch gauze and apply to entire face and neck. Let it remain on the skin. Wait 5 minutes and apply another layer. Observe skin, if frosting occurs, rinse skin with tepid water and blot dry then continue with step 3; otherwise, let acid absorb and do step 3. Note: For a Progressive to Mid-Depth Peel, substitute 10% TCA/AHA for the 15% TCA/AHA.

3 . L I g H T E N I N g A N d R E T I N O L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto a 2-inch gauze and, using firm pressure, apply evenly to pigmented areas. Let this prep solution remain on the skin. Spread an even amount of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck and blend in carefully. Let this remain on the skin overnight.

82


4 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Client may cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser and then apply Drop of Essence Hydration Drops, Sea Gems or Post Balm Lubrication Ointment and Daytime Defense SPF30. Days 2 to 3—Exfoliation will begin and skin will be tender and sensitive during this process. Recommend daily application of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment / Sea Gems. Days 2 to 6—When exfoliation begins, clients may use Regenerating Cream or Growth Factor Serum Plus twice a day. Daytime Defense SPF30 must be worn daily. Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum or Brightening Pigment Lotion may be used as soon as exfoliation is complete and skin is completely healed (see Home Care section for recommended regimen). Day 7—Client should return for a post follow-up visit.

83


1 9 . c R Y S TA L B R I g H T P E E L ™

Caution: Do not do unless you have had training and experience layering acids and working with microdermabrasion.

INTENSIT Y: Deep


Good for chest and hands (omit nutrient application).

gOALS: Reduce discoloration. Clear toxicity. Smooth and soften skin texture. Improve overall health and appearance of skin.

INgREdIENTS: Maui Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Melanin Suppressant Solution H2O2 Emulsion Microdermabrasion Machine Brightening Pigment Lotion



10% TCA/AHA Oxiana Oxygen & Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Sea Gems / Omega 6 EFA Daytime Defense SPF30

84


P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Maui Cleanser, avoid eye area. Rinse 2-3 times for complete removal. Skin will be slick and smooth, blot dry. Degrease skin by applying Fruit Acid Botanical with a 2-inch gauze using firm pressure. Wear surgical gloves and give client the hand-held fan. Pour Melanin Suppressant Solution onto 2-inch gauze and, using firm pressure, apply evenly to pigmented areas. Let this solution remain on the skin.

2 . H 2 O 2 A P P L I c AT I O N – P R E - P E E L Cover eyes with cotton eye pads. Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and spread a thin layer on skin. (This will produce a slight stinging sensation for a few minutes.) Allow skin to steam for 2-5 minutes. Remove mixture with warm water and pat skin dry.

85


3 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Prepare skin for microdermabrasion by placing eye drops in the eyes and covering hair and ears. Do 1 pass of microdermabrasion (work pigmented spots). Do not bring skin to pinpoint bleeding. If you do, DO NOT APPLY ACID. Instead, continue with Step 5, the nutrient application. Rinse away powder with Skin Brightening Cleanser. Thoroughly remove cleanser with gauze sponges and warm water. Blot skin dry with a tissue. On dry, cleaned skin, apply an even layer of Brightening Pigment Lotion with 2-inch gauze. Let this remain on skin.

4 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour 10% TCA/AHA onto 2-inch gauze and apply to entire face and neck. Let it remain on the skin for 5 minutes (set timer). Rinse skin with warm water.

5 . N U T R I E N T A P P L I c AT I O N OPTIONAL: If you have oxygen - spray skin with Oxiana Oxygen and Vitamins. Massage a few drops of Sea Gems and Omega 6 EFA into skin. Apply Daytime Defense SPF30.

86


6 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and may experience some sensitivity. Client may cleanse with Skin Brightening Cleanser and start applying Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy and sun protection daily. Days 2 to 6—When exfoliation begins, have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor twice a day. Sunscreen must be worn all day. Day 7—Client must return for a post follow-up visit. Skin Brightening Gel or Naturalé Mega Brightening Serum may be used as soon as exfoliation is complete.

87

O I L Y S K I N

2 0 . T H E A N T I O x P E E L ™


INdIcATIONS: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick V (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

This peel is suitable for darker skins, but use caution. Good for oily, acne, congested skin that is dehydrated and photo-damaged; a good peel to include Epidermal Leveling.

gOALS: Reduce sebaceous activity. Lift impurities. Create mild exfoliation for smoother, healthier skin. Antioxidant support.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling (OPTIONAL) Cell Conditioner 25% AHA Gel Tomato Enzyme Peel Green Tea Mask or Rosemary Basil Mask eZinc Protection Cream



88

O I L Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash; remove and wash a second time. Rinse well and pat skin dry.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical, and apply to skin. OPTIONAL: If you do epidermal leveling, this is a good place to do it during this treatment. Do not knick or scrape skin, if this happens do not continue. Apply one layer of Cell Conditioner – let absorb – wait 2 - 3 minutes before next step. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and smooth onto face and neck evenly. Set timer for 5 minutes and remove with warm water and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry.

3 . T O m AT O P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Remove 1 tsp. of Tomato Enzyme Peel and spread an even amount on skin. Rinse from skin with warm water in 10 -15 minutes. May remove with a cool, wet compress.

89

O I L Y S K I N

4 . F I N A L m A S K A P P L I c AT I O N Finish with an application of Green Tea Mask (antioxidant & antibacterial) or if skin is too stimulated, substitute with Rosemary Basil Mask. Remove from skin with warm water and gauze sponge in 10 minutes. Apply eZinc Protection Cream.

5 . P O S T P E E L Client may experience mild exfoliation. Client will continue recommended skin regimen the following day, using the appropriate cleanser and Growth Factor Gel morning and night. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks. NOTE: Tomato provides many benefits for the skin - antibacterial, exfoliating (naturally occurring acids), and antioxidant support. Green Tea also gives skin key antioxidant support.

90

O I L Y S K I N

2 1 . m A g I c c O m B O ™


INdIcATIONS: Fitzpatrick I to Fitzpatrick IV (see Fitzpatrick Chart, page 17).

Good for congested, impure, bacteria prone skin; and although there are several steps, it is worth it for the right skin - clients have come back and said, “Do the magic potion again!”

gOALS: Soften and disperse congestion. Balance oil. Reduce impurities.

INgREdIENTS: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Beta Refine Mask 20% Glycolic Acid Bromelain Enzyme Paste Blemish Complex / Beta Refine Mask Ice Globes Oxygen Spray (OPTIONAL) Growth Factor Gel eZinc Protection Cream



91

O I L Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Rinse well. Mix a small amount of Beta Refine Mask and 20% Glycolic Acid together. Wear gloves and begin to work mixture into skin similar to a gommage. Massage into skin with steam for a thorough cleansing. Avoid eye area. Rinse well with warm water and a gauze sponge. Blot skin dry.

2 . P R E - E x T R A c T I O N A P P L I c AT I O N Mix together 1 dropper of 20% Glycolic Acid and 1 tsp. of Bromelain Enzyme Paste. Apply to face and neck with a soft brush. Steam skin with a light vapor while working enzyme into skin. Remove in 7 minutes with warm water and gauze sponge. Swab only lesions and compacted pores with 20% Glycolic Acid and remove in 1 - 2 minutes. Lay a heated cotton pack across compacted areas for 15-20 seconds.

3 . E x T R A c T I O N Do extractions. Rinse skin with tepid water and gauze sponges.

92

O I L Y S K I N

4 . H E A L I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Mix a small amount of Blemish Complex with 1 tsp. of Beta Refine Mask. Apply a thin paste to congested, oily, acne areas only. Remove in 5 minutes. Skin will be red. Optional: You may go over face with sterile Ice Globes at this time. OPTIONAL: Spray with Oxygen and Vitamins. Finish with Growth Factor Gel, and eZinc Protection Cream.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—The skin will be slightly pink and sensitive for the first 24 hours. Client will follow appropriate cleansing instructions. Day 2—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Have client use an Epidermal Growth Factor and eZinc Protection Cream. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation on areas treated with mask mixture. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week, although Blemish Serum may be applied to any lesions that surface. This treatment may be repeated in 1 week, and is a good monthly maintenance treatment.

93

O I L Y S K I N

2 2 . “A” P E R O x I d E P E E L ™



This peel is suitable for darker skins, but always use with caution. Good for chest and hands.

gOALS: Reduce sebaceous activity and lift impurities. Stimulate tired, dull sluggish skin. Minimize fine lines and soften texture. Cause a mild exfoliation for a smoother, healthier skin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Pumice Wash or Brightening Scrub 20% Glycolic or 20% L-Lactic Acid H2O2 Emulsion Vitamin A Peel



94

O I L Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Glycolic Herbal Wash. Rinse. Do a second wash with Pumice Wash or Brightening Scrub. Rinse off completely and pat dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid or 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to skin with firm, even pressure. Rinse away with warm water in 1-2 minutes.

2 . P E E L A N d S T E A m A P P L I c AT I O N Cover eyes with cotton eye pads. Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a stiff brush. Steam skin for 10 minutes or cover with cellophane and wrap in hot compresses. Remove mixture with gauze pads and warm water. Blot skin dry.

3 . “A” A P P L I c AT I O N Drop Vitamin A Peel onto the skin and smooth in evenly. Let it remain on the skin overnight.

4 . P O S T P E E L Client may continue with mild cleansing the next day. Have client use Growth Factor Gel and sun protection daily. Client may experience some mild flaking and skin will be slightly sensitive. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks.

95

O I L Y S K I N

2 3 . m I c R O B L A S T

INTENSIT Y: Deep


This peel is suitable for darker skins, but always use with caution. Good for skins that are coarse, thick, oily and acne-prone as well as photo-damaged, aged skin. Good for chest. It uses an aggressive 3-step prep and TCA.

gOALS: Soften and smooth texture. Reduce pigmentation. Minimize wrinkles / fine lines. Detoxify impure skin.

INgREdIENTS: Skin Brightening Cleanser Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acidn TCA/Salicylic Acid Microdermabrasion System Vitamin A Peel



96

O I L Y S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck thoroughly with Skin Brightening Cleanser. Rinse skin completely and pat dry. Repeat cleansing step with Glycolic Herbal Wash. Work in well and remove with soft gauze sponges and warm water. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin with firm pressure. Avoid the eye area. Cover eyes with cotton pads for the duration of the remaining treatment steps.

2 . A c I d P R E P Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid. Apply to face and neck with firm, even pressure. Give client hand-held fan and set timer for 2 minutes. Rinse skin well. Blot skin dry.

3 . P R E - m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N T c A Pour a small amount of TCA/Salicylic Acid into a glass beaker. Saturate 2-inch gauze with solution and apply evenly to face and neck. Let absorb and process for 5 minutes. This will remain on skin. NOTE: Be sure to assess skin before proceeding with microdermabrasion step.

97

O I L Y S K I N

4 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N T R E AT m E N T Prepare the client for microdermabrasion - put drops in eyes, cover hair and ears. Depending on machine used, have setting at maximum capacity. Do one to two passes. DO NOT bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding. Place cool gauze on eyes; gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess

crystal. Remove corundum crystal if applicable with warm water and gauze; rinse several

times. Blot skin dry and make sure that ALL crystal is removed.

5 . v I TA m I N A A P P L I c AT I O N Apply Vitamin A Peel to skin and evenly blend in. This remains on skin. Do not overwork the skin; just smooth the mixture in lightly.

6 . P O S T P E E L Client may experience some mild flaking and skin will be slightly sensitive. Recommend Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment the first day if skin is tight or uncomfortable. Have client use Growth Factor Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30. Treatment may be repeated in 1 month.

98

A C N E S K I N

2 4 . T H E c R Y S TA L c L E A R P E E L ™



Treats unhealthy skin tones for a crystal clear complexion; for grade 1-3 oily acne skins.

gOALS: Control sebaceous activity. Remove buildup of dead skin cells. Encourage healing of lesions and loosen skin debris and impactions. Reduce amount of flare-ups and speed recovery of flare-ups that do occur.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Microdermabrasion Machine Citrus Gel Cleanser Cell Conditioner / Beta Refine Mask or Cacti Mud Mask Blemish Complex Growth Factor Serum / eZinc Protection Cream



99

A C N E S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse well. Depending on

the degree of impurity, an additional wash may be required. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and using firm pressure, apply

to skin. Do not remove.

2 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N T R E AT m E N T Prepare client for microdermabrasion: put eye drops in eyes, cover hair and ears. Depending on machine used, have setting at maximum capacity and do two

passes of microdermabrasion. Do not bring skin to pinpoint bleeding. Place cool gauze on eyes. Gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess

powder. Steam skin. Apply Citrus Gel Cleanser to hands and work into surface of the skin,

massaging the corundum powder and focusing on lesions for germicidal effect. Rinse several times and pat skin dry. Turn off steamer.

100

A C N E S K I N

3 . A c N E T R E AT m E N T Dot lesions and congested areas with a small amount of Blemish Complex. Note:

This may cause a burning sensation, so client will require fan. Mix Cell Conditioner into Beta Refine Mask or Cacti Mud Mask to form a thin

liquid mixture and brush on skin. Remove mask in 7-10 minutes. Rinse face with tepid water and gauze to remove mask mixture and acne

treatment. If you are using the Oxiana System, it is very beneficial to spray skin for 10 minutes.

Finish with Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream.

4 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client should cleanse with

appropriate cleanser (Beta Green Tea) and use Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel daily.

Day 2 to 3—Skin may experience some dryness; areas where Blemish Complex was applied will exfoliate.

Day 4—Client can generally resume acne home care program. This treatment may be repeated in 1 week.

101

A C N E S K I N

2 5 . T H E d E T O x P E E L ™

INTENSIT Y: Progressive to Mid-Depth


Detoxes skin and aids with unhealthy skin tones; great for oily acne skins that have acne grade 1-3.

gOALS: Control acne. Balance sebaceous activity. Loosen skin impurities for easier extraction and to heal lesions.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical H2O2 Emulsion Steamer or Hot Compresses 20% Glycolic Acid Blemish Complex / Cacti Mud Mask Growth Factor Gel / eZinc Protection Cream



102

A C N E S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponges. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to remove oils and lipids.

2 . S T E A m A P P L I c AT I O N Prepare steamer. (If you do not have a steamer, use damp, hot compresses.) Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Pour a small amount of H202 Emulsion into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a firm brush. Do not go directly under eyes or eyelids. Steam skin for 10 minutes. (If you are using a compress, cover the face with cellophane and a damp hot towel.) Remove mixture with warm water and gauze sponges.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid and apply to face and neck. Set timer for 90 seconds. Remove with water and sponges. Neutralize with club soda or baking soda solution.

103

A C N E S K I N

4 . E x T R A c T I O N Manual extractions to remove comedones and whiteheads; lance with needle for removal of milia and to reduce pressure of papules.

5 . m A S K A P P L I c AT I O N Mix 1 part Blemish Complex to 3 parts Cacti Mud Mask together and spread on congested areas and lesions. Remove in 7-10 minutes with cool water and gauze sponges. OPTIONAL: For continued healing of acne skin - apply a thin layer of Mandelic Arginine Peel. Finish with Growth Factor Gel and eZinc Protection Cream.

6 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client may cleanse with a mild cleanser and apply Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel daily. Day 2 to 3—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight. There will be mild exfoliation where the mask mixture was applied. Day 4—Client may resume recommended acne home care regimen. This treatment may be repeated in 2 weeks.

104

A C N E S K I N

2 6 . K O J I c c L AY T c A A c N E



For oily acne skins with acne from grade1 to grade 3. This is a consistently effective healing treatment for many acne conditions and is valuable to include as part of a treatment regimen in conjunction with other peels.

gOALS: Control sebaceous activity. Remove blockages with a brisk exfoliation. Encourage healing of lesions.

INgREdIENTS: All-Purpose Cleansing Pads / Beta Action Scrub Fruit Acid Botanical Salicylic Solution Blemish Serum Kojic Clay TCA Rosemary Basil Mask (Optional)



105

A C N E S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with All Purpose Cleansing Pads and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Do a granular scrub with Beta Action Scrub. Remove with warm water and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to remove oils and lipids. Give client hand-held fan.

2 . P R E - T R E AT m E N T Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Salicylic Solution and with very firm pressure, smooth it into the skin. Mixture will have a warm, tingling sensation. Let this prep solution remain on the skin.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place 1 tsp. of Kojic Clay TCA in a glass beaker and apply to skin with a camel- hair brush. Make sure to avoid eye area. (If mixture is thick, thin with a few drops of Fruit Acid Botanical.) NOTE: This acid mask will be very hot. Let mask remain on skin until dry (about 10 minutes). Remove with cool water and gauze sponges. Rinse skin several times. Note: Skin may blanch. Do not be alarmed—this is perfectly normal.

106

A C N E S K I N

4 . m A S K A P P L I c AT I O N - O P T I O N A L Place 1 tsp. of Rosemary Basil Mask into a glass beaker and spread a thin, even amount on entire face and neck with a soft firm brush. The mask soothes and calms skin, supports and enhances healing, and provides additional antibacterial benefits. For best results leave on skin for 20 minutes. Remove with gauze sponges and warm water.

5 . R E m O vA L Once the mask is removed, nothing is put on the skin. If sun exposure is a concern, apply eZinc Protection Cream - this will minimize vulnerability until client is home.

6 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client is instructed to do nothing to skin for the first 24 hours. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Cleansing and use of sun protection may commence. If skin is uncomfortable or tight, client may use Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment as a lubricant. If there is itching, recommend Calming Skin Gel and for discomfort, pain, inflammation, recommend Arnica Therapy. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Client should begin using Growth Factor Gel daily. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. Treatment may be repeated in 3 weeks, have client return in 1 week for extractions.

107

A C N E S K I N

2 7 . T H E H O T T O m AT O P E E L ™



For combination, acne- prone skin, thick congested skin and photo-damaged pigmented skin.

gOALS: Balance oil production. Improve skin texture. Eliminate and control acne lesions. Lighten pigmented skin.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Beta Green Tea Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical Melanin Suppressant Solution Salicylic Solution / Tomato Enzyme Peel Ice Globes Growth Factor Serum / Arnica Therapy Daytime Defense SPF30



108

A C N E S K I N

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Massage into skin for 60 seconds and remove with tepid water. Blot skin dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin in the same way you would apply a toner. The goal is to remove all lipidsfrom the skin.

2 . P R E - T R E AT m E N T Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Melanin Suppressant Solution, with very firm pressure, smooth it into the skin. Give client hand-held fan, as mixture can have a warm, tingling sensation. Let this prep solution remain on the skin.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place 1 tsp. of Tomato Enzyme Peel in a glass beaker and add 1 dropper of Salicylic Solution. Apply to skin with firm brush. Be sure to avoid eye area. Let remain on skin for 10 minutes.

109

A C N E S K I N

4 . R E m O vA L Remove with cool water and gauze sponges. Rinse skin several times. Note: Skin may blanch. Do not be alarmed—this is perfectly normal. Place damp gauze on face and go over skin with chilled Ice Globes. Apply a liberal amount of Growth Factor Serum mixed with a small amount of Arnica Therapy to skin and allow it to dry. Finish with Daytime Defense SPF30.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client can proceed with normal cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum at night. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Makeup may be worn at this time. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Client should continue with Growth Factor Serum and sun protection. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. This treatment may be repeated in 1 week; it is recommended that client return for extractions. Once skin is healed (to be assessed at week’s end visit), client may continue with home care corrective topicals.

110

M O R E P E E L S

2 8 . F I R m I N g & T O N I N g P E E L ™

INTENSIT Y: Mid Depth


For many skin types, but especially good for photo-aged, normal to dry skin and uneven skin tones. This has become one of my favorite peels...easy, fast, and what a difference!

gOALS: Minimize Fine Lines. Refine Skin Tone. Stimulate Cellular Rejuvenation.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser Brightening Scrub 25% AHA Gel Apple Wine Peel Melanin Suppressant Solution Vitamin A Peel Daytime Defense SPF30



111

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Do a granular scrub with Brightening Scrub. Remove with warm water and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry. Give client hand-held fan. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply to the skin with firm pressure for additional cell removal. Rinse with water and gauze. Be sure skin is dry before applying acid.

2 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N - 1 Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Apple Wine Peel and, with very firm pressure, smooth it into the skin. Mixture may have a warm, tingling sensation. Wait 5 minutes and apply a 2nd layer of Apple Wine Peel. Remove acid in 5 minutes with warm water and gauze sponge. Do several rinses.

3 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N - 2 Saturate 2-inch gauze with Melanin Suppressant Solution and apply evenly to face and neck. Let remain on skin. Place 3-4 droppers of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck and blend in evenly. Smooth in a few drops of Omega 6 EFA. Client will go home with the Vitamin A Peel on and do nothing to skin until the next morning.

112

M O R E P E E L S

4 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—The skin will be somewhat dry and tight. Cleansing, Growth Factor Serum and use of Daytime Defense SPF30 may commence. Day 2—Same as day one. Day 3—There will be mild to aggressive exfoliation over the next several days. Client should continue using Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Serum Plus daily. Avoid cellular repair home care for 1 week. Treatment may be repeated in one 1 month. Client should return in 1 week for post evaluation. After 1 week, home care topicals such as Organic A Complex, Super C Serum, Skin Smoothing Gel, Satin Peptide or Peptide 38, and Skin Brightening Gel may begin.

113

M O R E P E E L S

2 9 . P U m P K I N d E L I g H T ™

INTENSIT Y: Intense Progressive


For normal, dry and oily skins that have a thicker texture, photo-aging and uneven skin tone. Effectively grabs and disperses melanin. A great chest peel.

gOALS: Dissolve, soften and exfoliate keratin cells. Improve texture. Brighten pigmented skin. Infuse antioxidants into skin.

INgREdIENTS: Pumpkin Cleanser 25% AHA Gel Melanin Suppressant Solution Pro Pumpkin Peel Pumpkin E Serum Oxygen (OPTIONAL) Daytime Defense SPF30



114

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Pumpkin Cleanser and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 25% AHA Gel and apply to skin evenly with firm pressure. The goal is to remove all surface residue from the skin. Wait 3-5 minutes and remove AHA with warm water and gauze sponge. Rinse skin twice for thorough removal. Blot skin dry with gauze or tissue.

2 . P R E - T R E AT m E N T Saturate a 2-inch gauze with the Melanin Suppressant Solution. With very firm pressure, smooth it into the skin. Give client hand-held fan, as enzyme peel can have a warm, tingling sensation. Let this prep solution remain on the skin.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place 1 tsp. of Pro Pumpkin Peel in a glass beaker and apply to skin with a firm brush. Be sure to avoid eye area. Let remain on skin for 2-3 minutes. This enzyme is equivalent to a 30% Glycolic Acid - the skin must be timed and observed as you would with any acid. Rinse skin twice with cool water and gauze sponges for thorough removal. Blot skin dry with gauze or tissue. NOTE: To minimize intensity of Pro Pumpkin Peel - Pumpkin E Serum may be applied first - this buffers the enzyme.

115

M O R E P E E L S

4 . N O U R I S H m E N T A P P L I c AT I O N Using about 1 dropper of Pumpkin E Serum, apply to face and neck and begin mild facial manipulations. Continue with massage for about 10 minutes for increased tissue respiration and antioxidant support. Place warmed gauze pads on skin to remove excess Pumpkin E Serum (the resin leaves a green tinge on skin). This also aids in penetrating the skin better. OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen for about 5-7 minutes. Let nutrients absorb into skin for a few minutes. Finish the treatment with Daytime Defense SPF30.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client may proceed with normal cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum at night. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Client should continue with Growth Factor Serum and sun protection. NOTE: Do not do extractions prior to the application of Pro Pumpkin Peel. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week.

116

M O R E P E E L S

3 0 . Y O U N g A g A I N P E E L ™

Classroom education & peel experience required before doing this peel.

INTENSIT Y: Deep


For many skin types and conditions - avoid sensitive, rosacea skin. I have done this peel many times – always with a very nice outcome; however it is intense so be sure client is ready for this.

gOALS: Minimize fine lines. Improve texture & skin tone. Stimulate cellular rejuvenation. Reduce sebum production. Brighten & lighten discoloration.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Cell Conditioner Microdermabrasion Machine



Melanin Suppressant Solution 15% TCA/AHA Vitamin A Peel

117

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry. Give client hand-held fan. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm pressure to decrease skin of lipids. This remains on the skin.

2 . P R E - m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and with very firm pressure, smooth it into the skin. Mixture can have a warm tingling sensation. For thicker skin, apply a second layer. Wait a few minutes before next step, but leave on skin. The skin will show signs of erythema.

3 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Prepare the client for microdermabrasion; put drops in eyes, cover hair and ears. Depending on machine used, have setting at maximum capacity. Do one thorough pass. DO NOT bring the skin to pinpoint bleeding. Place cool gauze on eyes - gently pat around the eye area to wipe away excess crystal. Brush away crystal with dry gauze. Remove remainder with dampened gauze that has a small amount of Glycolic Herbal Wash on them; rinse several times.

118

M O R E P E E L S

4 . A c I d P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N - 1 Mix 1 dropper of Melanin Suppressant Solution with 3-4 droppers of 15% TCA/ AHA in a glass beaker. Place eye pads on client. Pour 15% TCA/AHA into a beaker and using a firm brush, apply one even layer. Be careful of dripping solution; protect ears, eyes, and mouth. Let absorb and wait 60 seconds. Wearing protective gloves, saturate 2-inch gauze with mixture. Using very firm pressure, go over face and neck with gauze. Wait 5 minutes and apply a third layer in the opposite direction. (Generally 2-3 layers is all that is needed to achieve a light frost) Allow solution to absorb into skin (about 5 minutes) and watch closely for separation. This appears like a foggy, white frost. When this happens, rinse skin with cool water and blot dry. Assess skin to determine if final acid peel is appropriate. This is where your experience and ability to read the skin is very important. If you have any doubts do not continue.

5 . A c I d P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N - 2 Apply droppers of Vitamin A Peel on face and neck. Blend in lightly and let this remain on skin. Client will leave with the Vitamin A mixture left on the skin, so it is important this is done at the end of the day and in the cooler winter months.

119

M O R E P E E L S

6 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be very dry and tight. Client will only apply Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment. This may be done as often as needed to reduce tightness. NOTE: Arnica Therapy may be used to soothe skin and reduce inflammation. Day 2—Same as day one. Day 3—Skin will begin to exfoliate and client will begin mixing Growth Factor Serum with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment (equal amounts - applied twice a day). Day 4—Skin will begin to shed more aggressively - keep applying post care topicals. Day 5 TO 7—Light cleansing may be done with Citrus Gel Cleanser and/or Gentle Milk Cleanser followed by a.m. and p.m. applications of Growth Factor Serum. Daytime Defense SPF30 and natural mineral foundation may be applied at this time. Be sure to send client home with appropriate home care instructions and call within the first 24 hours. Avoid cellular repair home care topicals until skin is completely peeled and healed. Treatment may be repeated in 6 weeks. Client should return in 1 week for post evaluation.

120

M O R E P E E L S

3 1 . PA R A m E d I c A L 4 - L AY E R P E E L

INTENSIT Y: Mid Depth


Most skin types will see a rejuvenating change with this technology treatment!

gOALS: Reduce scar formation. Improve hyperpigmentation and hydration. Stimulate and increase collagen production. Soften fine lines and improve skin texture.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Epidermal Leveling Microdermabrasion 10% TCA/AHA LED – Blue and Red Light Sea Gems / Omega 6 EFA Daytime Defense SPF30



121

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Glycolic Herbal Wash and rinse with warm water and gauze sponge. If necessary do a second cleanse. Blot skin dry. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to skin. Let absorb and remain on skin. Dry with fan.

2 . m E c H A N I c A L E x F O L I AT I O N Begin cellular abrasion (epidermal leveling), following the appropriate guidelines and technique.

3 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Prepare client for micro. Protect hair, place drops in eyes or cover eyes. Do two passes of micro in a crisscross pattern. DO NOT BRING SKIN TO PIN POINT BLEEDING.

122

M O R E P E E L S

4 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Protect eyes. Pour a small amount of 10% TCA/AHA into a glass beaker. LAYER 1 - Saturate 2” gauze with solution and apply to skin with firm pressure. Let this absorb and process (about 5 minutes). If no frosting, continue with next layer. LAYER 2 – Wet gauze again with solution and apply to skin in opposite direction. Let absorb and remain on skin. Let client continue to hold fan until burning subsides.

5 . L E d How this step is done depends on the equipment you have delivering LED. PHASE 1 – Do one pass with RED LED to stimulate collagen. PHASE 2 – Do one pass with BLUE LED for anti-bacterial support and oxygenation.

6 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Blend Sea Gems and Omega 6 EFA together and pat gently onto skin. Finish with a layer of Daytime Defense SPF30.

123

M O R E P E E L S

7 . P O S T P E E L Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and tender. Client may proceed with normal cleansing and application of Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel at night. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight. In the morning apply Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Client continues with Growth Factor Serum and Daytime Defense SPF30. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1 week. Client will return in 1 week for follow-up. This treatment may be repeated in one month.

124

M O R E P E E L S

3 2 . I TA L I A N H E R B A L P E E L ™

INTENSIT Y: Aggressive Progressive


Impure, blemished and oily skin types; this is a good treatment to do dermal resurfacing (epidermal leveling) for combination to normal skin types.

gOALS: Reduce bacteria – normalize skin. Soften and dissolve cellular build-up. Smooth rough texture. Minimize oil production.

INgREdIENTS: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Fruit Acid Botanical 20% Glycolic Acid or 20% L-Lactic Acid Cell Conditioner Italian Herbal Peel / H2O2 Emulsion Green Tea Mask Oxygen / Vitamins (OPTIONAL) Growth Factor Serum / eZinc Protection Cream



125

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse face and neck with Beta Green Tea Cleanser and rinse with warm water

and gauze sponge. Blot skin dry. Give client hand-held fan. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Fruit Acid Botanical and apply to the skin with firm

pressure to reduce lipids. This remains on the skin.

2 . d E R m A L R E S U R FA c I N g ( E P I d E R m A L L E v E L I N g ) - O P T I O N A L On very dry skin, begin cellular abrasion with proper technique. Do not knick or

scrape skin. If this occurs do not apply any acids to that area.

3 . A c I d P R E P Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% Glycolic Acid (20% L-Lactic Acid may be used

for dry acne and thinner skin), and with firm pressure, smooth it into the skin evenly.

Remove with warm water and gauze sponges in 2-3 minutes. Be sure skin is completely dry before going to next step.

4 . P R E - P E E L S T E P Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. This solution may have a stinging sensation so provide client with hand held fan.

Let this remain on skin.

126

M O R E P E E L S

5 . H E R B A L P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Remove about 1 tsp. of powdered herbal mixture into a glass beaker. Mix equal parts of H2O2 Emulsion with Italian Herbal Peel to create a soft paste

(a few drops of Fruit Acid Botanical may be added to make paste spreadable). Wearing protective gloves, smooth herbs onto skin. Place cellophane over upper and lower portion of face, be sure eye pads are in

place. Wrap face in a heated compress for 10 minutes then remove peel mixture.

6 . F I N A L m A S K A P P L I c AT I O N Remove about 1 tsp. of Green Tea Mask and using a firm brush, apply to skin.

NOTE: This is an active mask, so be sure the skin is not too overworked or sensitive.

Remove in 7-10 minutes with tepid water and soft gauze sponges. OPTIONAL: Spray skin with Oxygen & Vitamins. Finish skin with Growth Factor Serum and eZinc Protection Cream.

7 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 TO 2 —The skin will be somewhat tender. Client will only apply Growth

Factor Gel. This may vary depending on skin condition. Day 3 to 7—The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Light cleansing

may be done with Citrus Gel Cleanser or All Purpose Cleansing Pads followed by a.m. and p.m. applications of Growth Factor Gel or Serum. Sun protection and natural mineral foundation may be used as needed. Suggest Blemish Serum swabbed only on lesions.

127

M O R E P E E L S

3 3 . H I B I S c U S F LO w E R A c I d P E E L

INTENSIT Y: Moderate Deep


The Flower Acid Peel is a complex of Azelaic and Mandelic, a healing paste that induces cell turnover. The Hibiscus Peel adds extra DNA and lightening support in a liquid solution. The two work in tandem to create a lovely peel.

gOALS: Create a superficial exfoliation that renews and freshens the skin. Help smooth and even skin tone and balance oil production.

INgREdIENTS: Glycolic Herbal Wash Fruit Acid Botanical Microdermabrasion (OPTIONAL) Hibiscus Peel Flower Acid Peel Arnica Therapy or Sea Gems



128

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse skin with Glycolic Herbal Wash, and rinse well with warm water and gauze sponges. Saturate 2-inch gauze with the Fruit Acid Botanical, and apply to face and neck with very firm pressure to degrease the skin. Let this remain on the skin. Wait 1-2 minutes before the peel application.

2 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N - O P T I O N A L This optional step will further enhance the treatment for thicker, coarser, oilier skin. DO ONE THOROUGH PASS - Do not bring skin to pin point bleeding or break the skin. If this happens do not continue with acid application.

3 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Give client hand-held fan. Wear surgical gloves. Cover client’s eyes with cotton pads. Saturate 2-inch gauze with Hibiscus Peel. Apply solution evenly to face and neck and let fully absorb. Apply a second layer. You may need to re-saturate your gauze in order to distribute the solution equally. Let this remain on the skin and completely absorb and dry.

129

M O R E P E E L S

4 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place Flower Acid Peel into a glass beaker and apply to skin with a brush or protected, clean fingers. Smooth in evenly and work into skin gently. This remains on skin for 10 to 20 minutes (depending on thickness of skin and level of desired peeling) – light, wet, heat application may be used last few minutes on thicker skin. Remove completely with wet, tepid gauze. Skin will be tender and red. May apply Arnica Therapy or Sea Gems.


Day 1—Skin will be slightly pink and sensitive for the first 24 hours. Client will follow appropriate instructions doing very little to skin the first three days (Deep Post Peel Kit is recommended). Sea Gems is also a very soothing topical that will reduce erythema and heat. Day 2—Skin will be somewhat dry and tight; client may apply Pro Salve or Post Balm Lubricating Ointment. Arnica Therapy will reduce discomfort/pain and inflammation; it mixes well with other post care. Day 3—There will be mild exfoliation. Begin use of Growth Factor Serum or Growth Factor Gel; it may need to be mixed with Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Arnica Therapy for the first few applications. Avoid aggressive home care topicals for 1-2 weeks. Keep the skin nourished and supported during the building phase. Call client within 24 hours and do a post peel follow-up in one week. This treatment may be repeated in 4 - 6 weeks.

130

M O R E P E E L S

3 4 . R O S A c E A P E E L ™



Rejuvenation for sensitive skin, reduces inflammation and adds supportive and soothing properties to rosacea prone skin. Is antibacterial and creates a mild exfoliation.

gOALS: Reduce inflammation and sensitivities – smooth texture and give a healthier appearance to skin.

INgREdIENTS: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Cell Conditioner Salicylic Peeling Cream Hibiscus Peel Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel (OPTIONAL)



131

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser - massage in well. Remove all surface residue and makeup. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Rinse with warm water. Blot dry.

2 . P R E - P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Saturate 2” gauze with Cell Conditioner and apply evenly to face and neck. Let absorb into skin and remain on.

3 . A c I d A P P L I c AT O N Remove 1 tsp. Salicylic Peeling Cream. Apply to face and neck with a brush, wear protective gloves and begin smoothing cream into the skin. This will also help with the burn sensation that develops. As the acid seeps into the skin, the mixture becomes hotter. Let remain on skin 10 - 15 minutes. A fan will dry the mixture but if necessary give to client. Rinse the skin with tepid water and gauze. Do a couple or rinses and examine skin for any irritations or unusual frosting.

132

M O R E P E E L S

4 . F I N A L A c I d Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer evenly to skin using a firm brush. Watch solution closely as to not drip on client’s face. Let this absorb into skin and look closely at skin. Let this layer process fully before going to the next step. NOTE: If more peeling is desired and skin can handle, a layer of Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel may be applied and left on skin.

5 . F I N I S H I N g S E R U m Gently pat several drops of Sea Gems onto skin to reduce heat and inflammation.

6 . P O S T P E E L Makeup may be worn the next day (natural mineral foundation recommended). Have client use Rosacea Serum and Growth Factor Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30. Avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks.

133

M O R E P E E L S

3 5 . R A d I A N c E P E E L ™



Rejuvenation for sensitive skin, sensitive skins with broken capillaries, skin prone to redness and irritation and slightly sensitive tendency with coarse texture and impacted pores.

gOALS: Stimulate skin at a cellular level. Improve integrity of skin and induce healing and renewal.

INgREdIENTS: Beta Green Tea Cleanser Bromelain Enzyme Paste Cell Conditioner Hibiscus Peel Rosacea Serum / Arnica Therapy / eZinc Protection Cream



134

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Cleanse the skin with Beta Green Tea Cleanser - massage in well. Remove all surface residue and makeup. Rinse with tepid water and soft gauze. Do a second cleanse with Beta Green Tea Cleanser. Rinse with warm water. Blot dry.

2 . E N z Y m E A P P L I c AT I O N Place about 1 Tbs. of Bromelain Enzyme Paste into a glass beaker. NOTE: Most sensitive, rosacea skins will do well with this enzyme due to the salicylic acid in it. There are no absolutes - watch skin closely for irritation but redness is normal. Apply evenly to skin with a firm brush. Let remain on skin for 8 to10 minutes – may gently work into skin with gloved fingers. Remove with warm water thoroughly and blot skin dry.

3 . P R E - T R E AT m E N T Saturate 2-inch gauze with Cell Conditioner. Go over skin for further removal of surface residue and to lift any loosened cells from enzyme. Rinse with warm water and blot skin dry.

135

M O R E P E E L S

4 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N S Protect client’s eyes and offer hand held fan. Pour a small amount of Hibiscus Peel into a glass beaker and apply 1 layer evenly to skin using a firm brush. Watch solution closely as to not drip on client’s face. Let this absorb into skin and look closely at skin. Let the layer process fully before going to the next step.

5 . F I N I S H I N g c O c K TA I L Mix together the following topicals: Rosacea Serum – 2-3 drops. Arnica Therapy – 1-2 pumps. eZinc Protection Cream – 1 pump. Blend mixture together and apply evenly to skin with gentle patting motion.

6 . P O S T P E E L Makeup may be worn the next day (natural mineral foundation recommended). Have client use Rosacea Serum and Growth Factor Gel and appropriate sun protection. Avoid harsh scrubs or exfoliants. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks.

136

M O R E P E E L S

3 6 . m I c R O m A U I P E E L



This is a great treatment for aging to normal skin types. It is a beautiful series peel that combines acid, micro, and enzyme – leaving the skin, smooth, soft and buttery.

gOALS: Peel away stratum corneum. Soften and dissolve cellular build-up. Smooth rough texture. Reduce fine lines - brighten skin tone.

INgREdIENTS: Gentle Milk Cleanser Citrus Gel Cleanser 20% L-Lactic Acid Microdermabrasion Maui Peel Oxygen / Vitamins or MVC Serum Drop of Essence Hydration Drops or Grape Seed Hydrating Serum and/or Blushed Wine Gel Daytime Defense SPF30 or eZinc Protection Cream



137

M O R E P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Remove eye make-up with Gentle Milk Cleanser, rinse gently with warm cotton pads. Turn on steamer and cleanse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser – remove all surface make-up and residue. Rinse skin with warm gauze. Do a second cleanse with Citrus Gel Cleanser, massaging and working into skin. Rinse skin with warm water and gauze, do several rinses to remove all cleanser. Blot skin dry. Saturate a 2-inch gauze with 20% L-Lactic Acid and apply to the skin evenly. Let remain on skin 5 minutes - remove with warm water and gauze. Blot skin dry.

2 . d E R m A L R E S U R FA c I N g ( E P I d E R m A L L E v E L I N g ) - O P T I O N A L On very dry skin, begin cellular abrasion with proper technique. Do not knick or scrape skin. If this occurs do not apply any acids to that area.

138

M O R E P E E L S

3 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Protect eyes, ears, and cover hair as you prepare client for microdermabrasion. Be sure skin is completely dry before beginning. Do 1-2 passes of micro depending on pressure and type of machine being used. The goal is to slightly pinken and stimulate skin, lifting away dead skin cells. Do not bring the skin to pin-point bleeding or break the skin. If this happens do not continue. Brush away corundum powder when finished with micro; rinse skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser. Be sure skin is completely dry before going to next step.

4 . m A U I P E E L Remove 1 tsp. of Maui Peel and place in a glass beaker. Begin applying enzyme to face and neck. Client will feel a mild tingling sensation – begin massaging enzyme into skin with gloved hands. As this is worked into the skin, the tingling will lessen. Continue to massage Maui Peel (it will become less creamy); mixture becomes buttery on skin as it is worked in for about 10 minutes. At the end of the application, lay slightly damp 4" x 4" gauze on upper and lower half of face. Wrap face and neck with a steamed, hot towel for 1-2 minutes to complete the enzyme infusion. Remove hot wrap and gauze and rinse skin well with tepid water. Pat skin dry.

139

M O R E P E E L S

5 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Spray skin with Oxygen and Vitamins. If you do not have this – apply MVC Serum to skin and massage in well for 5 minutes. Finish treatment with appropriate topicals depending on skin type: Dry, Photo-Aged – Drop of Essence Hydration Drops and Daytime Defense SPF30. Normal – Grape Seed Hydrating Serum and/or Blushed Wine Gel and Daytime Defense SPF30. Oily, Combination Skin – Blushed Wine Gel and eZinc Protection Cream.

6 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 to 2—The skin may be somewhat tender and a little pink. Client will an Epidermal Growth Factor, Moisturizer, and Daytime Defense SPF30. Day 3 to 7—Client may experience mild exfoliation. Normal cleansing, growth factor, sun protection and natural mineral foundation may be used as needed. Avoid cellular repair home care topicals until skin is completely peeled and healed. Treatment may be repeated in 1-2 weeks.

140

B O D Y P E E L S

3 7 . w I N E L U S T E R B O d Y P E E L (For Arms, Hands, And Décolleté)



Sun-damaged, dry skin; this protocol may also be done on the chest. Giving skin a boost, this light peel treatment leaves the skin soft and glowing.

gOALS: Exfoliates dead skin cells. Smoothes and softens skin tissue. Lightens skin.

INgREdIENTS: Maui Cleanser Brightening Pigment Lotion Brightening Scrub / Melanin Suppressant Solution 25% AHA Gel Apple Wine Peel Energizing Peptide Spritz Bio Reform 28



141

B O D Y P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Work Maui Cleanser into hands and arms, massage in thoroughly. Wipe away using warm towels. Saturate 4" x 4" gauze with Brightening Pigment Lotion and apply to arms and hands with firm pressure. Let absorb into skin.

2 . P E E L P R E P Place 2 Tbs. of Brightening Scrub into a beaker, add 2 droppers of Melanin Suppressant Solution to scrub and mix well. Work into arms and hands, massaging in well for 5 minutes. Remove using warm, wet towels – rinse several times for complete removal. Use a dry loofah mitt or towel to brush away grains. Pour 25% AHA Gel into a glass beaker and apply to hands and arms with a firm brush. Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin for 10 - 15 minutes. Rinse skin with warm towels or sponge. Blot skin dry.

3 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pour Apple Wine Peel into a glass beaker. Using a firm brush, apply one layer to arms and hands. Wait 3-5 minutes and apply a second layer of Apple Wine Peel. (A third layer may be applied on thicker, photo-damaged skin.) Remove with warm water and gauze. NOTE: For a more intense treatment, Apple Wine Peel may be left on skin.

142

B O D Y P E E L S

4 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Spray Energizing Peptide Spritz all over arms and hands, pat into skin. Finish with Bio Reform 28 by massaging well into skin. Let this remain on skin.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 TO 7—Have client apply Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm once a day. AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily.

143

B O D Y P E E L S

3 8 . P U m P K I N B O d Y P E E L



A great protocol for sun-damaged, dry skins that may also be done on the chest. This light peel treatment leaves skin polished and glowing.

gOALS: Exfoliates dead skin cells. Reverses signs of aging. Smoothes and softens skin tissue. Lightens skin.

INgREdIENTS: Bamboo Scrub 25% AHA Gel Pro Pumpkin Peel / Melanin Suppressant Solution Energizing Peptide Spritz Ultra Exfole’ / Peel Cream Bio Reform 28 / Daytime Defense SPF30



144

B O D Y P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Work Bamboo Scrub into hands and arms, massage in thoroughly. Wipe away using warm towels. Brush away excess grains with dry towel and pat skin dry. Pour 25% AHA Gel into a glass beaker and apply to hands and arms with 4" x 4" gauze. Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin for 10 - 15 minutes. Rinse skin thoroughly with warm towels or sponge. Blot skin dry.

2 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place 2 Tbs. of Pro Pumpkin Peel into a beaker; add 2 droppers of Melanin Suppressant Solution; mix well. Apply the mixture to sections of the body (arms, hands, chest). Leave on skin for 10 - 15 minutes. (This is a good time to begin a mini-facial on client.) Remove using warm, wet towels – rinse several times for complete removal.

3 . P O S T P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Spray Energizing Peptide Spritz on body and pat into skin until absorbed. Follow with an application of Ultra Exfole’ to further loosen and soften dead/ damaged skin. Use gloves when doing this step or hands will dry out. Let this remain on skin.

145

B O D Y P E E L S

4 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Do a final soothing massage with Bio Reform 28 and Daytime Defense SPF30 all over arms, chest, and hands.

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 TO 7—Have client apply Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm once a day. AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily. Sun protection for areas that are being treated is essential. Suggest mixing Daytime Defense SPF30 in moisture cream of choice.

146

B O D Y P E E L S

3 9 . R E T I N O L P E P T I d E P E E L



Sun-damaged, photo-aged, dry skin. Décolleté area and forearms respond well to this treatment; mild exfoliation, but noticeable rejuvenation.

gOALS: Exfoliate dead skin cells. Reverse the signs of aging. Smoothe and soften skin tissue. Lighten skin.

INgREdIENTS: Maui Cleanser 20% L-Lactic Acid / Ultra Exfole’ Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel Peel Cream Bio Reform 28 / Daytime Defense SPF30



147

B O D Y P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Apply Maui Cleanser to skin and work into décolleté, hands and arms; massage in thoroughly for several minutes. Rinse well using warm towels. Thoroughly dry skin and on targeted areas, apply a generous layer of 20% L-Lactic Acid. Layer Ultra Exfole’ over this and massage into skin for 5-10 minutes. Using wet, hot towels, steam mixture off of skin and blot dry.

2 . P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Place Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel into a glass beaker and apply to décolleté, hands and arms with fan brush or gloved hand. Work into skin with gloved fingers and let remain on skin.

3 . F I N A L P E E L A P P L I c AT I O N Pump Peel Cream into hands and apply over Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel. Massage this into skin until almost gone. Lay cellophane wrap over area and follow with a hot towel compress. Remove towel and cellophane in 10 minutes. Let the mixture remain on skin.

4 . F I N I S H I N g A P P L I c AT I O N Do a final soothing massage with Bio Reform 28 and Daytime Defense SPF30 all over arms, décolleté, and hands.

148

B O D Y P E E L S

5 . P O S T P E E L Day 1 TO 5—Have client apply Peel Cream or Ultra Exfole’ to area treated the next 3-5 nights - Energizing Peptide Spritz and Nurture Balm may be applied once a day. AFTER ONE WEEK —The skin will begin to experience mild exfoliation. Recommend Bamboo Scrub in the shower and dry brushing with towel to lift away more skin. Client may continue regeneration by using Ultra Exfole’ 1-2 times a week and Bio Reform 28 daily. Sun protection for areas that are being treated is essential. Suggest mixing Daytime Defense SPF30 in body cream of choice. NOTE: Treatment may be done every 3 weeks. For maximum results, sell this treatment in a series of 3. Recommended Home Care Kit – Bamboo Scrub / Petite Peel Cream or Ultra Exfole' (this is determined by how damaged area being treated is), and Bio Reform 28 or Nurture Balm (Bio Reform 28 is preferred as a treatment therapy – however, price point may be a factor to client). Additional Support – Energizing Peptide Spritz.

149

B O D Y P E E L S

4 0 . m I c R O B O d Y T R E AT m E N T (For Arms, Hands, And Décolleté)



Sun-damaged, dry skin on arms, hands, and decollete’. This treatment merges microdermabrasion with mild acids that gives a very stimulated and polished outcome. Skin glows! Lots of steps, but worth it for a signature body peel; may also be used on the upper back for additional benefits.

gOALS: Exfoliates dead skin cells. Reverses the signs of aging. Smoothes and softens skin tissue. Lightens skin.

INgREdIENTS: Fruit Enzyme Wash Brightening Pigment Lotion 20% Glycolic Acid Cell Conditioner /Liquid Enzyme Peel H2O2 Emulsion



Ultra Exfole’ Energizing Peptide Spritz Bio Reform 28

150

B O D Y P E E L S

P R O c E d U R E :

1 . P R E P T H E S K I N Wet skin down with warm towels or hand mitt to remove any residue of existing oils or lotion. Work Fruit Enzyme Wash into hands and arms for a thorough cleanse. Wipe away using warm towels. Saturate 4 " x 4" gauze with Brightening Pigment Lotion and apply to body, or areas being treated, with firm pressure. Using a fan brush, apply an even layer of 20% Glycolic Acid to area. Let remain on skin for 5 minutes. Remove mixture with very warm 4" x 4" gauze and then a second rinse with wet, heated towels. Blot skin dry.

2 . A c I d A P P L I c AT I O N Pour Cell Conditioner into a glass beaker. Using a fan brush, apply one layer to arms and hands. Let Cell Conditioner absorb completely and leave on skin. Prepare Liquid Enzyme Peel by pouring into a glass beaker; brush evenly onto areas being treated. Work this into skin and let absorb until dry, then remove with warm, wet towels – follow by dry brushing area to be sure all loosened skin has been removed.

151

B O D Y P E E L S

3 . m I c R O d E R m A B R A S I O N Prepare Microdermabrasion machine. Begin abrading skin in back and forth motion, avoid breaking or bringing skin to pinpoint bleeding. Brush away corundum powder and wipe skin with warm, wet towels – blot dry.

4 . F O L LO w - U P L I g H T E N I N g A c I d Remove 1-1/2 Tbs. of H2O2 Emulsion from container and place in a glass beaker. Apply with a fan brush or gloved hand and smooth into skin. OPTONAL: Saran wrap may be laid on arms, chest, hands and draped with heated towels. Let remain on skin for 10 minutes and rinse away with warm towels. Blot skin dry.

5 . N U T R I E N T F I N I S H I N g m A S S A g E Spray skin with Energizing Peptide Spritz and blend into skin, this absorbs easily and feels very refreshing to the skin. Work a small amount of Ultra Exfole’ into skin being treated and then follow with Bio Reform 28 for the ending to a beautiful treatment.

152

B O D Y P E E L S

6 . P O S T P E E L Instruct client to not do anything to skin for the rest of day or night – the next morning after shower, apply Drop of Essence Hydration Drops and Nurture Balm. Use Daytime Defense SPF30 at all times and keep arms/hands protected from exposure. Recommend wearing long sleeved cotton tops.

This can be used regularly as skin begins to experience mild exfoliation in about 5-6 days. Bio Reform 28 is highly recommended for maintenance and may be used once exfoliation is complete. This is a valuable repair cream. Bamboo Scrub is beneficial for daily exfoliation while in the shower.

153

T H I N g S T O R E m E m B E R T O T E L L Y O U R c L I E N T A F T E R A P E E L First and foremost, never pick! Premature peeling may

damage skin and cause hyperpigmentation. Avoid the sun! Avoid sun exposure for at least two full

weeks. Wear a hat and sunblock every day. Even exposure as brief as walking through a parking lot can have deleterious effects.

Avoid heat! Being outside in the shade can have adverse effects too. Excess heat can be too stimulating.

Do not do vigorous exercise. Over stimulation and heat will flush the skin and increase the intensity of the peel. It can also cause light-headedness.

Don’t wear a tight headband or hat or glasses that press heavily on the nose. Don’t do what “Christie” did. She went roller-skating in the evening with her sunglasses on and developed two large holes on each side of her nose which took months to heal!

Don’t hold the phone over your ear for a long period of time.

Don’t have tape, bandages, or hot compresses applied to treated areas.

Dental work stretches the skin. Be aware. Sleep on back. Detergents on pillowcases and lying on

face can be an irritant to skin.

Do not wear a Halloween mask the same day you have a peel!

Avoid swimming for the first 48 hours; chlorine is a skin irritant.

Avoid excessive alcohol consumption. Avoid smoking. Don’t use any topicals other than those suggested. Dyes,

perfumes, preservatives, and other topical ingredients can be very irritating.

Don’t let pets and babies scratch the skin. Watch out for whisker burns. Avoid steam baths, sauna, and hot showers for the first

three days. Don’t wear earrings or necklaces until the skin is

completely healed. Avoid scratchy clothing on or around the treated area. Return in one week for an assessment. Read, sign, and make sure you understand your home

care instructions. Call us immediately if there is a problem.

154

Barring allergic reactions (which may usually be avoided with a simple patch test), most complications occur after the client leaves the office. Following are some possible reactions and how to address them:

EdEmA (SwELLINg)Use ice, cold packs, Arnica Therapy, and/or Calming Skin

Gel. Recommend an antihistamine. Severe swelling may require referral to a physician for a cortisone shot.

ERY THEmA (REdNESS)Normally the redness abates within the first 24 hours. If it

does not, recommend Sea Gems and/or Arnica Therapy followed by Regenerating Cream (EGF), or Post Balm. For long-term redness recommend to use camouflage powders or make-up and wear sunscreen.

RAISEd RASHCalming Skin Gel works well. Have client discontinue use of

any other topical until problem is resolved.

PRURITUS ( ITcHINg) Use Calming Skin Gel or Post Balm.

PIgmENTARY cHANgES Hypo/absence of melanin—camouflage. Hyper—use bleaching serums such as Naturale’ Mega

Serum or Skin Brightening Gel Demarcation caused by uneven application of acid or

premature peeling can be effectively addressed with a series of progressive treatments.

Uneven streaking, mottled, blotchy—superficial micro-dermabrasion or light AHA treatments will help eliminate.

AcNEUsually disperses and clears up in a relatively short period of

time. Do light extraction. Treat extreme cases with Blemish Serum or Blemish Complex Cream.

mILIAManually extract—use lancet, hypodermic needle, or for

extreme cases, the Lam Probe.

INFEc TIONRefer to physician for possible antibiotic treatment.

HERPESDetermine potential for a Herpes outbreak in initial

consultation. If breakout occurs, have client use over-the-counter cream, or obtain prescription for Zovirax from physician.

SURFAcE ScARRINg—cAUSEd BY PIcKINgApply Growth Factor Serum or Serum Plus (EGF) or other

Growth Factor formula immediately.

SYSTEmIc REAc TION—LIgHTHEAdEdNESS, NAUSEA, HEAdAcHE, BOdY RASH, cHILLS, FLU-LIKE SYmPTOmS

Have client drink plenty of water to flush system and possibly suggest the use of Tylenol. If reaction does not subside in 24 hours, refer client to a physician.

c O m P L I c AT I O N S A N d H O w T O T R E AT T H E m

155

w O U N d H E A L I N gChemical peeling causes an injury to the skin that disrupts

the protective barrier. This results in a wound.

A wound is a disturbance of the normal skin barrier and an alteration of the skin functions.

FIRST PHASE - INFLAmmATION

An inflammatory response begins immediately when a chemical agent is applied. The four signs of inflammation are swelling, redness, heat, and pain or discomfort. It is during the inflammation stage that platelets release growth factors.

EPIdERmAL gROw TH FAc TOR is a protein that attracts cells to the injured area. It is key in the healing process.

SEcONd PHASE - RE-EPITHELIALIzATION,gRANULOSE TISSUE FORmATION & ANgIOgENISIS

Re-epithelialization begins within the first 24 hours and is the migration of keratinocytes to the base of the wound and this increases cell proliferation.

An occluded or wet wound heals faster than a dry wound.

Granulose Tissue Formation begins on the second or third day. The fibroblast is the chief cell involved in the formulation of granulose tissue (a combination of molecules and cells).

Angiogenisis is the formation of blood vessels. The flow of blood is increased as a natural way to supply oxygen and nutrients to the wound.

THIRd PHASE-REmOdELINg This stage is the building of collagen. The fibroblast is key in this process. It is this stage that is responsible for the texture of

the skin, water is resorbed, the collagen fibers bundle closer together, and the epidermis is thicker.

When the inflammatory phase is completed (no swelling, redness, heat) usually 5-7 days, the remodeling phase begins. This stage of healing and building may take 30 days and more depending on the depth of the wound.

To encourage a positive healing outcome treat the skin with L-Retinol topical or AHA 2-4 weeks prior to a peel. Retinol increases epidermal regeneration and thickness. There is no evidence this will increase the efficacy of a peel.

Use Post Balm Lubricating Ointment or Pro Salve to provide a wet occlusive immediately following peel and to support positive completion of peeling treatment. To reduce heat and cool skin, apply a generous amount of Sea Gems; to reduce inflammation and decrease pain, apply Arnica Therapy. If itching is a problem mix post care with Calming Skin Gel to relieve irritation. Instruct client to apply continuously during the first 24-48 hours.

When the skin begins exfoliation the application of an epidermal growth factor is extremely critical. If a client is unable to use epidermal growth factor, recommend Drop of Essence Hydration Drops, an Omega 6 EFA preparation, and always send home with SPF30, a physical sun block.

156

T H E P O S T c A R E v I S I TOur objective in a post care visit is to: 1. Observe the healing that has taken place.2. Assess changes in skin condition, texture, and tone. 3. Extract impurities that may have surfaced as a result of

the peel.4. Remove dead skin cells that have not sloughed away.5. Hydrate and nourish skin. 6. Observe the overall benefit of the peel and post care

visit performed.

A post care visit is recommended one week following the peel. In some cases 10 days to two weeks may be appropriate depending on the type of peel, peel intensity, and type of client care program.

Peels require a period of repair and healing. Remember that, when administering a treatment that causes skin to exfoliate, an injury has taken place.

Post care visits may be administered at three possible healing stages:

1. When the skin has totally recovered.2. When the skin may be slightly pink, but has otherwise

recovered.3. When the skin is still red and tender to the touch.

The post care visit approach is different for each of these scenarios. You do not want to do the same thing to a skin that has patches of unlifted skin and is still showing signs of redness and irritation as you do to a skin that has completely healed and peeled. This is why I stress to anyone performing skin peels that you first and foremost understand the skin and recognize indications for doing or not doing a specific treatment. Following are three post-care-visit treatments, one for each possible scenario.

157

P O S T c A R E v I S I T S c E N A R I O N o . 1

ScENARIO: Skin that has healed and totally peeled.

gOAL: Cleanse, exfoliate, soothe, and nourish the skin.

INgREdIENTS: Gentle Milk Cleanser / Clarifying Beads (cleanser choice may adjusted by skin type) Purifying Lotion Goats Milk Peeling Cream Sea Gems / Growth Factor Serum / Drop of Essence Hydration Drops Milk Mask / Maui Peel Cucumber Spritz Moisture Au Lait or Exotica Rhodiola Daytime Defense SPF30

OPTIONAL – Oxygen Spray with Vitamin Nutrients

158

P R O c E d U R E :

1. cLEANSINg Cleanse the skin with an appropriate cleanser for the skin type. (For a dry-normal

skin, use a mixture of Citrus Gel and Clarifying Beads, for a hyperpigmented skin use the Skin Brightening Cleanser, for an oily, acne-prone skin use the Beta Green Tea, and for a sensitive skin use Gentle Milk & Citrus Gel Cleanser mixed together.)

Rinse the skin with warm water and gauze sponges to remove all of the cleanser.

NOTE: Mix Clarifying Beads with cleanser to create a mild but gentle scrub to remove surface skin.

2. ExFOLIATINg & Ex TRAc TINg FOR THE EYES: Place a thin film of Moisture Eye Treatment around the eyes and

on the eyelids. Apply dampened warm eye pads. Remove 1 tsp. Goats Milk Peeling Cream and put in beaker. Spread evenly on

entire face and neck. Steam skin for 10 minutes or wrap face in a heated wet compress.

Remove the mixture with a warm gauze sponge and rinse the skin several times. Extractions may be done at this time.

159

3. SOOTHINg & NOURISHINg Saturate a 2-inch gauze with Purifying Lotion. Go over entire face and neck. Let

remain on skin. Apply three drops of Sea Gems and two drops of Growth Factor Serum. Add

Drop of Essence Hydration Drops to cocktail and apply to face and neck. Do a gentle massage for lymphatic drainage. Using a heated compress, steam nutrients into skin – OPTIONAL: Spray

with Oxiana nutrients and pure oxygen. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin prior to mask.

4. FINISHINg mASK & HYdRATION

A. AcNE-PRONE & OILY SKIN:

OPTION 1 - Place about 1 tsp. of Green Tea Mask into a glass beaker and apply evenly to face and neck with a soft brush. Leave on skin for 10 to 15 minutes.

OPTION 2 - Spread an even amount of Rosemary Basil Mask to face and neck. Remove in 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse well.

160

B. NORmAL, dRY, & SENSITIvE SKIN: Apply an even layer of chilled Milk Mask to face

and neck, for more intensity mix 1 part Maui Peel to mask. Place gauze on the face and go over skin with cold Ice Globes for several minutes. Let mask remain on skin for 10 minutes. Remove with cool gauze sponges. Rinse well.

Finish skin with a spray of Cucumber Spritz and Sea Gems - Layer Moisture Au Lait or Exotica Rhodiola as final moisturizer. Apply eZinc Protection Cream or Daytime Defense SPF30.

161


ScENARIO: Skin may be slightly pink and not completely finished peeling.

gOAL: Cleanse, exfoliate, protect (with antioxidants), soothe, and nourish the skin.

INgREdIENTS: Citrus Gel Cleanser Derma Peel Sea Gems / Drop of Essence Hydration Drops Milk Mask Oxygen and Vitamins Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30

162

P R O c E d U R E :

1. cLEANSINg Cleanse the skin with Citrus Gel Cleanser. Rinse the skin with warm water and gauze sponges to remove all of the cleanser.

2. ExFOLIATINg & Ex TRAc TINg Remove 1 tsp. of Derma Peel and apply to skin. Work into skin and the gel will

become a watery consistency. Begin manual massage working Derma Peel into skin until it forms tiny granulars. Wrap face in a heated compress for 1- 2 minutes and then remove peeling

mixture. Extractions may be done at this time.

163

3. NOURISHINg & mASK Place 3 drops of Sea Gems and 2 drops of Drop of Essence Hydration Drops

onto skin and massage gently into skin. Massage skin for as long as desired – just use gentle movements or lymphatic

technique. Remove 1 tsp. chilled Milk Mask and apply to skin with a soft brush. Remove

with tepid water in 10 minutes. When mask is removed bathe skin with Oxygen & Vitamin Spray for 10 minutes. Roll chilled Ice Globes over skin prior to mask.

NOTE: Whenever possible, I use oxygen. I have always found infusing skin with pure oxygen and vitamins speeds up the healing of the skin.

End treatment with a layer of Growth Factor Serum (or other EGF formula) followed by Daytime Defense SPF30.

Client will continue with post care support until all skin is completely healed.

164


ScENARIO: Skin is still too pink and tender to the touch.

gOAL: Cleanse, soothe, and nourish the skin in order to accelerate the healing process. It is important to understand that in this stage of healing, less is more, so no enzymes, acids, or harsh scrubs should be used.

INgREdIENTS: Gentle Milk Cleanser Calming Skin Gel Post Balm Lubricating Ointment / Arnica Therapy Milk Mask Oxygen & Vitamin Spray Growth Factor Serum Daytime Defense SPF30

165

P R O c E d U R E :

1. cLEANSINg Gently cleanse with Gentle Milk Cleanser. Rinse with soft gauze sponges and

warm water. May require two cleanses. Only extract very surfaced lesions that require little effort. Schedule another session for heavier extraction when skin is less sensitive.

2. SOOTHINg Spread a thin layer of equal parts of Post Balm Lubricating Ointment, Arnica

Therapy and Calming Skin Gel on entire face and neck. Let remain on the skin. Over the mixture, layer a generous amount of Milk Mask that has been cooled on

ice or in the refrigerator. Place gauze on the face and neck and go over entire area with cold Ice Globes

for several minutes. Apply heated compress to skin. Remove the mixture in 10 to 15 minutes with cool gauze sponges.

3. NOURISHINg & HEALINg Bathe skin for 10 minutes with oxygen and mycelized vitamins. Let absorb. Finish with Growth Factor Serum. Apply Daytime Defense SPF30.

166

H O m E c A R EWhat a client uses on a daily basis, through the peeling procedure and after, is as important as the office treatment. Therefore, it is of utmost importance that you direct your clients to appropriate home care regimens.

The most important part of a home care routine is a cleanser and sun protection. Next in importance is a supportive cell rejuvenator. These are the basics. Additional specialty products can enhance and quicken results.

Specialty products include pumice and buffing washes, antioxidants, eye serums, nighttime moisturizers, AHAs, L-ascorbic acid, retinol, enzymes, masks, and topical medications.

Customization is the name of the game. Take into consideration not only the skin’s needs, but cost and time it takes to use a product. Do your best to create the most effective regimen. Following are three general home care regimens specific to different skin types and conditions.

1. dRY, SENSITIvE, & AgINg SKINSA.m. & P.m.

Gentle Milk Cleanser & Pumpkin Cleanser Purifying Lotion (antioxidant)

A.m. Super C Serum Antioxidant Complex Serum Regenerating Cream Daytime Defense SPF 30 (reapply as needed)

P.m. Eye & Lip Repair Serum Organic A Complex (3-4 times a week) Drop Of Essence Hydration Drops

wEEKLY Cherry Jubilee Enzyme - Milk Mask

2. HYPERPIgmENTEd - NORmAL TO cOmBINATIONA.m. & P.m.

Skin Brightening Cleanser/Brightening Pigment Lotion Regenerating Cream or Growth Factor Serum/Brightening Cream Enhanced

A.m. Brightening Scrub Daytime Defense SPF 30 (reapply as needed)

P.m. Naturale’ Mega Brightening Serum (3-4 times a week) Skin Smoothing Gel (three times a week)

wEEKLY OR T wIcE A wEEK Skin Brightening Enzyme

3. AcNE - PRONE SKIN - OILY, ImPUREA.m. & P.m.

Glycolic Herbal Wash/All Purpose Cleansing PadsA.m.

Beta Green Tea Lotion Growth Factor Gel eZinc Protection Cream

P.m. Blemish Complex (spot-treat lesions only)

wEEKLY Pumpkin Parfait Enzyme or Pumice Wash Impure Skin Mask

There are many possible variations and combinations of the above regimens. Keep in mind you are dealing with individuals. Everyone is different and not everything works for everyone. You have an abundance of choices, and by listening, observing, and assessing you can create the ideal program—one that will assist your clients in reaching their optimum skin goals.

167

P R O d U c T g LO S S A R Y I know there are many great products on the market. However, I can only tell you about what I’ve used and what works for me. Over the years, I have developed certain product preferences. I like how natural, plant-derived ingredients work, so I stay away from synthetics as much as possible. I use products that work well on their own and that I can combine effectively. I always prefer using products that deliver the best results with the least risk. Following is a list of the products I use in my treatments. I have described each, so you can understand what makes them work and so you have a starting point in case you want or need to make substitutions.

AHA Gel ( 25%) Glycolic, L-Lactic, L-Malic, L-Tartaric, and L-Citric gel with a pH of 3.0.

All Purpose Cleansing Pads Soft cleansing pads are soaked in a natural anti-bacterial solution (Totarol) and green tea extracts.

Antioxidant Complex Serum A potent blend of antioxidant and nutrients.

Apple Wine Peel A concentrate of wine extracts and L-Malic and L-Tartaric acids.

Arnica Therapy A concentrate of Arnica to relieve pain, discomfort, swelling and inflammation.

Bamboo Scrub A granular body scrub with bamboo and pearl extracts; leaves skin refreshed, polished, and hydrated.

Beta Action Scrub A sea algae granular scrub with antibacterial support.

Beta Green Tea Cleanser Salicylic acid and antioxidant cleanser for all skin types.

Beta Green Tea Lotion Salicylic acid, totarol (natural anti-bacterial), and heart of green tea.

Beta Refine Mask Clay-based mask made of sulfur, salicylic acid, and totarol that reduces swelling and dries up excess sebum.

Bio Reform 28 An age reversal complex with EGF, plant stem cells, peptides, vitamins, antioxidants, amino acids, and isoflavones to restore and reform youthful body tissue.

Blemish Complex A BPO compound of organic oxides and glycolic acid that kills acne-causing bacteria.

Blemish Serum A naturally soothing antibacterial which combats problematic skin and helps to clear skin blemishes.

Blushed Wine Gel A firming and toning gel great for post-menopausal skin; gives skin a youthful, iridescent glow.

Brightening Pigment Lotion A melanin suppressant toner with daisy flower extract, rice peptide, and L-lactic acid.

168

Brightening Scrub Kojic and L-Asorbic Acid help lighten and brighten skin tone as jojoba beads gently exfoliate the skin.

Bromelain Enzyme Paste A digestive enzyme from pineapple and Salicylic Acid; supports and corrects problematic, thick, coarse, and oily skins.

Cacti Mud Mask A clay-based mask with natural exfoliating action to reduce cellular cohesion for smoother skin and vitamins, minerals, and amino acids to fortify skin.

Calming Skin Gel A blend of aloe, willow herb, and hydrocortisone especially indicated for irritations, rashes, redness, itching, and swelling.

Cell Conditioner A lipid-reducing peel prep or mixing agent; increases collagen production and improves texture.

Citrus Gel Cleanser Citrus-based foamy cleanser for all skin types.

Clarifying Beads Jojoba bead all-purpose cleanser for deep pore cleaning.

Daytime Defense SPF30 A natural zinc oxide-based sun protector and moisturizer.

Derma Peel A naturally healing papaya exfoliant that removes cellular build-up.

Drop of Essence Hydration Drops A retail version of professional Omega 6 EFA - Contains Omega 6, D-Alpha Tocopherol, and essential oils of geranium and lavender.

Energizing Peptide Spritz A synergistic blend of peptides and energizing actives; evens skin tissue, promotes collagen production, and helps correct deep wrinkles and skin sag.

eZinc Protection Cream A natural zinc oxide complex with an SPF of 18; antioxidant and moisturizing benefits.

Flower Acid Peel Azelaic acid at its best, blended with Phytic and Pyruvic Acid – Mandelic Acid and enhanced with Hibiscus Flower Acids.

Fruit Enzyme Wash Natural fruit acids and potent antioxidants combine to form this foaming, all-purpose bath and shower gel that leaves skin polished, renewed, and hydrated as the fruity aroma of mango, pineapple, and papaya extracts exhilarate the senses.

Fruit Acid Botanical Plant-based AHAs and beta acids that strip and heal the skin.

Gentle Milk Cleanser Shea butter and pure milk extracts.

169

Glycolic Acid (20%) A polymer-based gel (which allows for a more even distribution) with a pH of 2.5.

Glycolic Herbal Wash Foamy, stripping, glycolic-based cleanser that assists in the removal of oils and residue.

Grape Seed Hydrating Serum An all natural, nutrient enriched oil that provides skin with a blend of vitamins and antioxidants.

Grape Seed Parfait Mask An antioxidant mask that offers moisturizing, firming and toning benefits.

Green Tea Mask A stimulating, purifying mask with wasabia root extract, green tea extract, and D-Alpha Tocopherol; improves blood circulation and clarifies skin - also beneficial for upper-body areas.

Growth Factor Gel/Serum/Plus Concentrated blends of epidermal growth factor for wound repair and cellular regeneration.

H202 Emulsion A blend of salicylic acid, vitamin A, lactic acid, glycolic acid, and hydrogen peroxide.

Hibiscus Peel A healing Mandelic, Phytic and Pyruvic Acid complex with Flower Acids for lightening benefits.

Honey Paprika Mask A blend of hydrating and stimulating nutrients; D-Alpha Tocopherol, Calendula, Honey, Paprika, Beta Carotene.

Hibiscus Peel A blend of Flower Acids with Mandelic, Phytic, and Pyruvic Acid.

Hydra Complex Serum A potent blend pure grape seed extracts and oils combined with natural yam extract.

Italian Herbal Peel A mixture of oregano, thyme, basil extracts, and ursolic and salicylic acid; digestive and exfoliating benefits as well as healing and anti-bacterial properties.

Kojic Clay TCA A setting clay mask with Lactic Acid, TCA, and Kojic Acid; minimizes hyperpigmentation, reduces the signs of aging, and promotes healthy skin.

Liquid Enzyme Peel A unique blend of papain, salicylic acid and acetic acid complex.

L-Lactic Acid (20%, 50%) An all-natural L-Lactic acid polymer with a pH of 2.5.

Lotus Peel A modified Jessner solution with flower acids for additional lightening benefits.

Mandelic Arginine Peel A gentle healing, age-reducing rejuvenator; a perfect addition to most treatments.

Maui Cleanser With pineapple and L-Lactic Acid, this is a potent, deep pore cleanser for the treatment room.

170

Maui Peel With a wonderful pineapple aroma, this mask purifies, soothes, and clarifies skin with a combination of L-lactic acid, bromelain enzyme, and pineapple extracts.

Melanin Suppressant Solution A blend of bleaching substances in a tomato extract base used to enhance evenness of skin tone.

Milk Mask Prepared from pure milk protein, high in valuable nutrients—calms, soothes, nourishes and hydrates.

MVC Serum A multi-vitamin nutrient concentrate that supports skin health.

Natural Lift Activator An advanced moisture complex with vitamins, antioxidants, and AHAs.

Omega 6 EFA Specially formulated Omega 6 essential fatty acids that heal, lubricate, and hydrate.

Peel Cream A blend of all five AHAs; replenishes, firms, tones, and rejuvenates skin.

Pepsin & Papain Enzymes Naturally occurring digestive exfoliant that helps prepare the skin for treatment.

Post Balm Nourishing lubricant that is anti-inflammatory, anti-itching and antibacterial.

Pro Pumpkin Peel An exfoliation accelerator, potent antioxidant, and mild retinoic acid subtitute; valuable for photo-aged, nutrient deprived skin.

Pro Salve Lubricating occlusive to relieve tightness and discomfort following peels, laser and other procedures.

Pumice Wash Antibacterial cleanser containing BPO and salicylic acid.

Pumpkin Cleanser A natural enzyme based foamy cleanser with L-lactic acid and pumpkin extracts.

Pumpkin E Serum A blend of pumpkin extracts high in beta carotene and zinc and D- alpha tocopherol - antioxidant and tissue respirator.

Pumpkin Peel Extracts of pure pumpkin that dissolve keratin cells.

Raspberry Lotion Healing toner that reduces lipids and shiny appearance on skin.

Regenerating Cream Epidermal Growth Factor in an all-natural, cream-based mixture that encourages cell renewal and assists in the repair of skin wounds.

Rosemary Basil Mask Healing and soothing mask containing extracts of basil, rosemary, and boswellic acid (anti-inflammatory).

171

Sake Peel A Phytic/Pyruvic, Rice Ferment, TCA/Salicylic Acid blend; reduces fine lines, tightens skin, and fights free radical damage.

Salicylic Peeling Cream Contains 25% salicylic acid; useful in the treatment of acne, oily skin, scars, and sun-damaged, aging skin.

Salicylic Solution A revised Modified Jessner formula that uses TCA in place of resorcinol.

Sea Gems A mitochondria complex with stem cell technology; reduces wrinkle formation and provides thermal reduction to traumatized skin.

Skin Brightening Cleanser An all-natural cleanser boosted with lightening agents to assist in the suppression of melanin production.

Super C Serum Collagen-building, antioxidant support.

TCA/AHA (10%, 15%) TCA blended with L-Lactic and Glycolic acid.

TCA/Salicylic TCA blended with Salicylic acid.

Therapy E Serum A water-binding natural humectant, Vitamin E provides antioxidant and healing support.

Tomato Enzyme Peel Naturally dissolves stratum corneum cells while eliminating bacteria and excess lipids. Also supports acne skin healing.

Ultra Exfole' A body peel cream that supports tissue repair from photo-aging and skin deterioration.

Vitamin A+ Peptide Peel A unique peeling formula with peptide action and natural amino acid exfoliators.

172

T E R m S A N d m O d A L I T I E S

Botox Injections using botchulism to paralyze muscles diminishing fine lines; generally repeated every 3-4 months - peels may be done the day before or day after procedure.

Cauterization Radio frequency effectively removes skin tags, pigmentation spots, cholesterol deposits, and telangiectasia.

CO2 Laser An aggressive skin resurfacing using light wave to vaporize skin. Peeling may be done 3-4 weeks prior to procedure and 12-16 weeks following procedure.

Collagen An injectable filler derived from bovine cowhide - peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure.

Cosmeceutical A term used for products that are more active than cosmetics but not considered drugs.

Cryo Pen Hand held nitrous oxide delivery to remove pigmentation, freckles.

Foto Facial A pulsed-light therapy that affects capillary issues (redness) and hyperpigmentation - peeling sessions should not be done while client is having procedures - wait one month from final Foto Facial.

Hydroquinone A tyrosinase inhibitor and bleaching agent.

Ice Globes Round, glass bulbs that are iced until very cold and are rolled on the skin to calm or reduce inflammation.

Melaquin 3% hydroquinone - prescription strength.

Oxiana System Oxygenate skin—pure oxygen, vitamins, and minerals that hydrate and nourish the skin

pH - Potential of Hydrogen The scale used to determine acidity and alkalinity.

Radiance As of this time, a non-approved by FDA injectable filler - peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure.

Restylane A filler from stabilized synthetic hyaluronic acid - peeling may be done same day of injectible before filler but numbing agent is not recommended due to potential irritation or wait 2 weeks following procedure.

Retin A A Vitamin A derivative - Tretinoin; client should stop use of product 2 weeks prior to peel.

Thermage Intense heat and light wave that affects fibroblast and increases collagen production. Discontinue peeling for one month following treatment.

173

Tyrosine An enzyme that produces melanin from melanocytes.

Valtrex An anti-viral medication to suppress Herpes Simplex. Should be taken 2 weeks prior to peeling procedure.

Technology is constantly changing and new methods for skin restoration and rejuvenation are being developed, I have given some guidelines for what is current now. I recommend you limit peeling procedures when clients are receiving treatments from someone else and continually ask your clients if they have done anything new since you last saw them.

c O N TA c T U S

For information on any of the products, equipment, or accessories used for procedures contact the corporate office of Rhonda Allison Clinical Enterprises at 817-410-9899. Additional information may also be obtained on the official Rhonda Allison web site at www.rhondaallison.com

Rhonda Allison Clinical Research offers continuing educational courses for all levels of skin rejuvenation. Call the corporate office to receive class schedules.

the art of skin peels rhonda allison

Documents

step skin

acne skin

sensitive skin

skin ages

dry skin

hyperpigmented skin

oily skin

rhonda allison enterprises