textiles4life // graduation report // ana lopez triguero

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Design of disaster relief equipment with discarded textiles

MsC. Thesis Integrated Product DesignAna López Triguero

April 2012, Delft, The Netherlands

Delft University of Technology, Faculty of Industrial Design Engineering

Prof. Dr. J.C Diehl,

Prof. Dr. R.P. KosterPhD candidate A.L. Rodrigues Santos

Enviu

E. Stroomer

KICI

S. Jongerius

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Textiles4Life

AbstractThis thesis is written as graduation project for the master Integrated Product Design at the fac-ulty of Industrial Design Engineering of the Technical University Delft. KICI and Enviu promote it, and it has been developed with the collaboration of the Red Cross.

The thesis explores the potential of recycling textiles to be used as a solution for disaster relief. The followed process is a systematic method where the required areas are researched, to finally achieve three potential solutions.

KICIKICI, is a non-governmental organisation set in The Hague, that, since 1975, collects second-hand clothing and shoes for reselling or recycling, and donates the revenues to charities. This collection is done through placed containers in public spaces. The innovation department is re-searching new ways to recover or recycle the clothes that cannot be resold, and process them into new products. Sander Jongerius is the product developer who has coached this thesis,

giving knowledge support to the textile research in this project. www.kici.nl

EnviuEnviu develops innovative solutions to environmental and social issues and introduces these to the market, through a network of young entrepreneurial people, senior executives, corporate partners and universities to co-create these innovative businesses. They called them WOW! ideas: innovative, sustainable solutions for environmental or social issues, that have a business case, are scalable, and are challenging for young people to get involved. Enviu head office is in Rotterdam, but they also have operations in Amsterdam, Chile and India. Elmar Stroomer is a business developer in Enviu, and he has coached this thesis following the whole process and helping in the set of objectives.

www.enviu.org

TUDelftTUDelft is a technical university situated in Delft, the Netherlands with eight faculties and nu-merous research institutes that hosts over 16,000 students. This thesis is created in the faculty of Industrial Design, with the support of two professors as coaches. Jan Carel Diehl who is assistant professor in Design for Sustainability, and Rolf Koster, assistant professor in Design Engineering.

www.io.tudelft.nl/en

The Dutch Red CrossThe Dutch Red Cross is the main beneficiary of KICI donations. They are also the main potential purchaser partner in this project, but they are not directly involved. The main contact persons are: Eelko Brower (coordinator of international relief at Red Cross) and Mark Cox (researcher in TUEindhoven working in winterisation projects for the Dutch Red Cross).www.rodekruis.nl

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ContentIntroduction 5

A. Project basis 91. Textiles4Life - Project Description 112. TexLab - Developer 153. Red Cross - Purchaser 194. Three-way approach 21

B. Context Analysis 235. Disaster typologies 256. Disaster management 347. Selecting procurement 378. Existing products 439. Victims 52

C. Technical Analysis 6110. Recycling textiles 6311. Insulation 66

D. Analysis Conclusions 7112. Project basis conclusion 7313. Context conclusion 7414. Technical research conclusion 78

E. Ideation 8115. Design opportunities 8316. General requirements 8517. Concept for TexLab 8818. Concept for Red Cross 9719. Concept for Pakistani villagers 10520. Concept assessments 111

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F. Embodiment 11321. Mantoo 11522. Tiletex 12323. Refabrics 132

G. Evaluation 14124. Mantoo assessment 14325. Tiletex assessment 14626. Refabrics assessment 14827. General assessment 15028. Personal evaluation 151

H. Appendices 15329. Original assignment 15430. Project Mind-map 15631. Red Cross Structure 15832. Disasters definitions 15933. Disasters statistics 16134. Climates 16535. Disaster relief 16936. Interviews and communications 17337. Materials 17638. Prototypes 17839. Testing 18940. Mantoo questionnaire 193

I. References 197

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Background - Problem descriptionThe project arises from two problem scenar-ios: firstly, the necessity of recycling textiles into new products in a more efficient and profitable way,01 and secondly, the increase of disasters and conflicts that consequently affect a great number of people. 02 In general, it seems that the occurrence of disaster is increasing, just by watching the media. And on the other hand, the exhaustion of natural sources is becoming a pertinent reality, illus-trating the need for new and more sustain-able products.

Textiles4Life was conceived within TexLab. TexLab is the spin-off project made by KICI and Enviu, and their main objective is to create new market solutions in the recycled textiles space, using social and/or sustainable criteria as a design basis. A brainstorm was performed prior to this project to develop initial design ideas. Some initial brainstorm outcomes led to initial products to being researched further. Additionally, other as-signments are being developed, and they are explained in chapter 1.

A literature research study was conducted on recycled textiles , which showed that several waste textile streams presented good quali-ties for insulation. One of the possible mar-kets that arose to introduce recycled textiles was the disaster relief products. Furthermore, a relationship already existed between KICI and the Red Cross. Since 2010, KICI has donated the profit from clothing collection to a NGO, the beneficiary of which is the Dutch Red Cross. The Dutch Red Cross is interested

in improving the current relief equipment, and they have seen potential in the idea of using textile waste for this application. This basis provided Textiles4Life many contacts within the organisation who could work on disaster relief, and also a team from TU Ein-dhoven (which is researching possibilities for Winterized relief products).

AssignmentThis is the first official assignment for Textiles-4Life, and as was mentioned in the previous section, other projects will be developed in the future. The first project issued to TexLab was an assignment to research the pos-sibilities to create Winterized disaster relief equipment out of recycled textiles. TexLab indicated that the lack of efficient and afford-able Winterized products suggests solutions should focus on:

•Flooring•Inner tent solution•Hard-shell tent•Sleeping gear

I made a new problem and design statements according to my interpretation:

Introduction

“How can I design disaster relief equipment made out of discarded textiles, to be used in winter conditions, and that will provide warmth to the affected people?”

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Thus, there are two separate aspects to this design problem: firstly, the disaster relief products, and secondly, the recycled textiles as the main material. The material research was already being performed by KICI thus, the main focus of this assignment was about the disasters context; and later, depending on the findings, a translation into material research to fulfil those findings.

MethodologyA linear approach has been followed in this assignment. The steps taken are represented in Figure 1. Firstly, the assignment has been positioned within a project framework, which explains the roles of the involved partners and the approach definition. The approach that was chosen is explained in chapter 4. After-wards, an analysing of the design context and the technical aspects was performed. Finally, conclusions were developed, with the rel-evant outcomes for the design phase and the general requirements. A context was chosen, and three different design statements have been elaborated to arrive at three different possible approaches for the project. The three concepts were carried out in parallel; the level of detail being defined for every concept, depending on the desired outcome. Finally the required steps for future developments have been explained.

GoalsThe main goals of Textiles4Life is to produce different Winterized relief products from discarded textile, however project sub-goals are also defined. The main objective is to develop and evaluate a variety of options for Textiles4Life, and describe different potential future development paths. Rather than focus on detailed design, which would require definition of specific functional features or technical aspects, a broader approach was employed. Thus, the main sub-goals of the project are:

•Broad overview of the context.•Specify context and technical considera-tions for the design process.•Determine general requirements and crite-ria for future products.•Show different approaches and how they will be carried out.

Advise on future developments.

By fulfilling these goals, Textiles4Life will be able to choose a specific focus within the research context and start a new design process from there, with this project as back-ground information.

The final deliverable are:

•Reference report showing the whole pro-ject progress and results•Presentation poster•3 different designs concepts showing different approaches and different detailing level according to every concept’s goal. •Model, prototypes or visualisations of every concepts

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Framework

Three-way approach

Contextual and technical research

Conclusion

General requirements

Sub-criteria

Idea generation

Concepts choice

Concepts developments

Future steps

Detailing levels

Design statements

Figure 1.Project steps and methodology

Project BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject BasisProject Basis

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A. Project basis

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Textiles4Life

TexLab &

Threeway approach

In this chapter, the project framework is studied to decide upon a design approach to follow. Firstly, the project and its phases are described, and secondly the main partners are introduced with their with an explanation of their interests in this project. In the chapter conclusion, a design approach is decided that guides the following chapters.

Textiles4Life

Red Cross

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Project Basis_� Textiles4Life - Project Description

1. Textiles4Life - Project Description

TexLab initiated this project in collaboration with the Dutch Red Cross and an architecture research team from TU Eindhoven. The Red Cross saw a great potential in the idea of using recycled textiles as a form of insulation, and TexLab saw the disaster relief area as a potential growing market.

Aside from this assignment, other projects are being carried out by TexLab. In addition

to the student projects, Enviu is developing a working network with disaster relief organisa-tions and manufacturers to develop partner-ships and possible costumers. Furthermore, KICI continues to work on textiles research. Finally, a design contest is being planned, in order to develop further product ideas,. Additionally, funding appeals are being created to finance the project. As a second

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Business development

Product development

Material

Design competition

Sponsors/Funding

Feasibilitystudy

Context analysis

Requirements

Concepts

Prototyping

Market analysis

Business modelling

Marketing and communication

Financial

Figure 2.Textiles4Life project areas

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Textiles4Life

research initiative, some “add-on” projects are being investigated as possible ways to procure financing and other support. Besides these aspects, there is an ongoing funding application to the Nationale Postcode Loterij Foundation.

The project will pass through several phases that focus on the different development areas, mainly business and product develop-ment, which overlap in some activities. In Figure 2 the main activities can be seen in the context of the corresponding sub-activities. This assignment is mainly focused on the beginning of the product development.

The project scope in general terms is the development of a line of disaster aid products made out discarded textiles, to be sold to relief organisations, to which the end-user will be victims of natural and human-made disasters. The end-users will not purchase the product themselves, as in most of cases, disasters are unpredictable and the common person does not plan extensively for these type of occurrences. The aid agencies act as intermediary purchasing agents for these products from different suppliers, and they be the main distribution channel to the victims. 03

The main income for NGOs is public and private funding, therefore, asking a prohibi-tively high price for this type of product could be interpreted as being unethical. However, Textiles4Life as potential supplier, should not forget that the project should be economi-cally feasible, despite its nonprofit character. Hence, it will be important to create a clear vision for the product and implement an ef-fective business model.

To develop an idea of the main stakehold-ers involved in this project, the major life cycle stages have been reviewed, with the main stakeholders mentioned in each stage (Figure 3). There are three main stakeholders

distributed across the stages. The life cycle of the project is divided into three areas, shown in different colours. TexLab (in green) is the main stakeholder on investment, develop-ment, and manufacturing stages; the Red Cross (in red), on the purchasing, distribution and implementation stages; and the victims (in blue), on the usage and end of life. Each main stakeholder will contribute important requirements to the project, making the design process more complex. It is important to accurately understand the needs of each stakeholder, and achieve the right balance within the final design in order to make the project a success. A deeper overview of the project framework is presented in a mind-map that can be found in the appendix 30.

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Project Basis_� Textiles4Life - Project Description

Investment

Development

Manufacturing

Implementation

Use and second uses End of life

Purchasing & Storage

Distribution

Public Funds Private Funds

PromotionTexLab

Enviu KICI

KICI

Red Cross

Textiles Standard componentsCollectors

Sorters

Processors Assembly

Distributors

Imported comp Local comp.KICI

Textiles companies

National Postcode Loterij NGOs

Crowd sourcing

Comunication platform

Shredding companies T4T

Disaster relief manufacturers Disaster relief

equipment providersShredding companies

Local distributors

Private entities

NGOsPrivate storage

Local governments

Local governments

UN

Red Cross

NGOsRed Cross Disaster relief workers

Disaster relief workers

Knowledge

TU/E

Local manufacturers

Victims

Disaster relief workers VictimsVictims

Figure 3.Life cycle stages

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Textiles4Life

1.1. Conclusion and desired developmentsTextiles4Life’s final aim is to create a feasible social business-model within the disaster management industry, by developing prod-ucts (or services) with recycled textiles as the main source material.

The project performance criteria touches several different areas, as the correct develop-ment of the products will be dependant on the right coordination of many activities. Ini-tially, this means a feasibility study and later, the definition of the business model being carried out parallel to the product develop-ment. The definition of the requirements, the establishment of a design context and the

different possible approaches are researched within the product development. This assign-ment is focused on the start-up phase of the product development with supportive actions for the feasibility study, and the product design.

The three major stakeholders add the main requirements to the product, and they should be considered in every choice/stage of the design process. Inadvertently, the different stakeholders will add contradictory demands, and the right balance should be found to fulfil everyone’s needs.

Figure 4.Main project partners

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Project Basis_� TexLab - Developer

2. TexLab - Developer

2222222222 22222

KICI and Enviu worked together for several years on textile projects. One of the main pro-jects has been Textiles4Textiles (T4T), which is a project to develop new garments from non-wearable clothes and post-consumers textiles. This is done with “Identitex” hardware, which is an automatic sorting installation that is able to sort textile materials on fibre composition (cotton, wool, polyester, blends, etc.) and on colour, for post-processing in new applica-tions. 04

After several projects, TexLab’s vision was to have a stronger cooperation with stakehold-ers and partners. TexLab’s objective is to cre-ate textile projects that will have a high social impact on society, and that will use discarded clothes as main material source to reduce the amount of textiles waste that is disposed of in landfills each year.

In the Netherlands in 2000, 218 Kilotons of textiles were discarded by consumers, 72 Kilotons were collected for reuse or recycling, and the rest (146 Kilotons) was incinerated or dumped at landfill sites. This appears to be a growing trend, with 285 Kilotons of textiles forecasted to be discarded in 2012, creating opportunities for KICI. The percentage of col-lected clothes is also increasing, but it would be desirable for this trend to increase at a higher rate, so KICI would be able to recover more textiles. 05

2.1. KICIKICI’s core business is the collection of used

clothes through containers, door-to-door collection and agreements with companies. Revenue is generated by selling the collected clothing to a sorting company for a variable price per kg, depending on the quality (wear-able and non-wearable) and the demand in the countries were the wearable clothing is sold (e.g. Eastern Europe and Africa). KICI has a CBF label, which requires that a donation of at least 25% of its annual profit go to charities. Every 5 years KICI selects a main beneficiary; from 2010 this is the Dutch Red Cross. Due to this existing relation, the Red Cross will help TexLab with their expertise on disaster management.

In addition to the focus on charity, KICI has committed itself to sustainability in all its activities. And it is in that commitment where this innovation projects fits. Another one of these innovation projects is Textiles4Textiles, which is explained in the next paragraph. The main KICI’s business chain is explained in Figure 5, which aims to steer the innovation activities.

KICI is also looking for new textiles applica-tions and partnerships to increase the rate of the recovered textiles. Besides increasing re-covery rate, KICI wants to make people more aware of the second life that their clothes can have. 06 The innovation projects need to find sponsoring and financing sources in many cases, and due to the growth goals of Textiles4Life, financing will play an important role.

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2.2. EnviuEnviu supports KICI innovation projects by offering their expertise and networking in social and sustainable business models. Enviu creates WOW! ideas, and they are developed and introduced into the market. WOW! ideas are: innovative, sustainable solutions for environmental or social issues, have a busi-

ness case, are scalable, and are challenges for which young people can become involved. All these characteristics should be integrated into Textiles4Life, and as part of the criteria in this assignment.

2.3. Textiles 4 TextileTextiles4Life is a spin-off project from Textil-

Figure 5.KICI innovation activities

IDENTITEX

210 Kton/year

33% collected6,8 Kton by KICI (10%)

66% to landfill or incineration

150 Kton

60% rewearable is sold

40% non rewearablesorted by colour/material

Yarn from recovered fibers

Pressing plates from non recovered fibers

Emergencysupplies

CompositesNew products

collected data in the Netherlands in 2000Innovation

Business modelNew opportunities

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Project Basis_� TexLab - Developer

es4Textiles (T4T). T4T is a project to recover new garments from non-wearable clothes and post-consumers textiles. This is done with the Identitex hardware, an automatic sorting installation that will be able to sort textile materials on fibre composition (cotton, wool, polyester, blends, …) and on colour. Several sorted post consumer textile fractions will be further processed by shredding, resulting

in fibres, weaving, knitting new textiles and finishing into a number of valuable end-products like clothing and home textiles. Shorter fibres will end-up in non-wovens for application in personal hygiene, insulation and automotive applications.

IDENTITEX

210 Kton/year

33% collected6,8 Kton by KICI (10%)

66% to landfill or incineration

150 Kton

60% rewearable is sold

40% non rewearablesorted by colour/material

Yarn from recovered fibers

Pressing plates from non recovered fibers

Emergencysupplies

CompositesNew products

collected data in the Netherlands in 2000Innovation

Business modelNew opportunities

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Textiles4Life

2.4. Conclusion and design briefTexLab’s mission is the research, development and launch of social and sustainable business cases that will promote the use of recycled textiles. Their main interest at this stage of the project is to research the project’s feasibil-ity, and to find the right business opportunity and partners.

Therefore, TexLab has some particular inter-ests that should be considered and included in the design. They want to achieve some specific objectives to fit their vision. Some of the objectives derived from the WOW! ideas characteristics are used as criteria. A possible design brief related to their main goals is explained below.

Design briefTexiles4Life will have a clear sustainable and social objective, and recycling textiles for disaster relief should be the means to get there. The development of the business case should consider this aim as the main priority. But it should be a financially feasible busi-ness case, and also technically feasible. The growth potential of the project should be ensured, making possible to become an international project. The innovation and the added values that we offer should be clear and it should be able to compete with current products on functionality and price. The project should be economically sustaina-ble too. This derives into more sub objectives, like a low initial investment. It is interest-ing to start in a small scale first to see the development and acceptance of the project. It should give opportunities to new partner-ships for financing and promoting jointly, being tempting for them to being more sustainable while obtaining some benefit. For example, textile producers can donate clothes and funds to recycle their old textiles

in a social project. TexLab also wants to cre-ate sustainability awareness by showing the second life that their old clothes might have, and that way get a bigger rate of col-lected clothes to recycle, hence, it would be interesting that the product calls the media attention and that stands its recyclable nature. The public attention might also at-tract new partners and sponsors.

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Project Basis_� Red Cross - Purchaser

3. Red Cross - Purchaser

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The Red Cross has the highest potential as a purchaser for the products developed within this project. Hence, it is important that we understand the standard procedures and the internal structure of such an organisation. The Red Cross is an immense movement with strict internal protocols. The International Red Cross and Red Crescent movement is a com-posed of the following parts 07 (Figure 6):

•International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC)•International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC)•National Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies

ICRC is the core of the Red Cross, with the objective of protecting lives and the dignity of victims of war and internal violence. The IFRC tries to make sure the national Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies can work together and organise relief assistance missions in case of large-scale emergencies, and therefore is the most relevant organisation in this project. More explanations on their capabilities are explained in appendix 31.

3.1. Role in Disaster responseDisaster response represents the largest portion of the IFRC work. 08 The first people to respond to a disaster are those living in the local community. The Red Cross and Red Crescent National Societies therefore focus on community-based disaster preparedness first, but when the capacity of a community or country to respond and recover from a disaster is overwhelmed, the International Federation uses its regional and international networks, assets, and resources to bring as-sistance to the communities and National Red Cross Red Crescent Society which is assisting them. 09

The main operations are the Emergency Response Units (ERUs), teams of trained tech-nical specialists, ready to be deployed at short notice; they use prepackaged sets of stand-ardised equipment for an immediate response and long-term rehabilitation work to disaster areas. 10 The equipment they use is standard-ised and already defined in their catalogue. The IFRC is open to the best supplier’s offer,

Figure 6.ICRC, IFRC and Het Nederlandse Rode Kruis logos

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Textiles4Life

avoiding monopoles and ensuring competitive prices. 11

The main income for these operations come from the Disaster Relief Emergency Fund (DREF). DREF is a fund set up by the IFRC to ensure that immediate financial support is available for emergency response. 12

3.2. Role in Textiles4LifeThe Dutch Red Cross plays a double role in this project, firstly as knowledge partner, and secondly as possible costumer. As a knowl-edge partner, they are valuable due to their experience with Disaster Relief. They can pro-vide us with feedback on our design process and with strategic partners and contacts. One of those strategic partners is TU Eindhoven, mainly the Shelter Research Group from the department Architecture, Building, and Plan-ning. They have years of experience on the research of winterized solutions for disaster relief and relations with the Red Cross, hence they can act as reference for best solutions.

As customer, the Dutch Red Cross is look-ing for new solutions to extend their current product range. Their initial brief is to focus on winterized insulated solutions with low unit price.

The Dutch Red Cross and KICI are search-ing ways to finance Textiles4Life. They have applied as joint partners for the Nationale Postcode Loterij foundation to develop the project. The Nationale Postcode Loterij do-nates funds to the development of social and sustainable projects. 13

3.3. ConclusionThe Red Cross is a complex movement involving a vast internal structure. The Dutch Red Cross’ official role in Textiles4Life is as knowledge partner. Through them however, Textiles4Life will have to reach the IFRC to get

the final products globally implemented. For that purpose, the products will have to fulfil the requirements imposed in the catalogue, and add new values. Textiles4Life might need a big investment to produce and test the final products, and to maintain a competitive low price to offer to the Red Cross.

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Project Basis_� Three-way approach

First observations indicate that this project requires a multidisciplinary research approach and it should pass through several, already mentioned stages. This assignment should help to direct future decision-making, thus ,if the scope is too narrow a complete sense of feasibility and opportunities could be lost. The possible outcomes will be dependant on several factors like partnerships, funding partners, taken strategy, time frame and a long etcetera. For that reason, the project has an informative purpose. It is not focused on the development of one single detailed product, that might be discarded in the future for not fitting in the current situation. At this stage, it is decided to show variety of solutions and possible future developments outstanding when and why is better to follow one over another.

The project implies a rela-tive complex-ity because

of the many involved partners. The partners will have contrary interests that might dif-ficult their fulfilment. For this reason, and the previous stated fact, it has been decided to follow a three-way approach in which three different design concepts will be develop, choosing different design approaches for every one.

The start point for the three concepts are the three main stakeholder groups that are present, developer, purchaser and users, because they give different perspectives to

the problem. The context research is fo-cused on getting an overview of the

situation, looking through all the stages and factors that might

affect the design and add more requirements. The

current gaps and de-sign opportunities are

identified. After the context research is developed, three design approaches are chosen.

Figure 7.Threeway approach

4. Three-way approach

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Context AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext AnalysisContext Analysis

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B. Context Analysis

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In the previous chapter, the project objectives are stated and the present partners. Now it is important to know and understand the product context; where, when, by whom, and how it will be used, and what the factors that might affect the design. This section starts with a larger overview in what is a disaster and how it is handled, and finishes with a case study on research about the living conditions of the victims.

Disasters typologies

Selecting procurement

Victims

Disasters management

Existing products

DIS

AST

ERS

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Context Analysis_� Disaster typologies

5. Disaster typologies

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To understand the context well, it is required to know what kind of events can be called a disaster, which ones require more efforts, and what kind of conditions can be found. While classifications, can be done, it is good to remember that every situation is unique and will require different solutions.

Disaster is a natural or man-made hazard that has come to fruition, resulting in an event of substantial extent causing significant physical damage or destruction, loss of life, or drastic change to the environment. 14

Natural disasters Man-made disasters

Geophysical

Sociological

Technological

Hydrological

Meteorological

Climatological

Biological

EarthquakeVolcanoMass Movement (dry)

CrimeCivil disorderTerrorism

Industrial hazardsStructural collapsePower outageFireHazardous materialsTransportation

FloodMass Movement (wet)

Storm

EpidemicInsect infestationAnimal Stampede

Figure 8.Disasters classification

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For a disaster to be entered into the Emer-gency Events Database (EM-DAT)15 at least one of the following criteria must be fulfilled:

•10 or more people reported killed.•100 or more people reported affected.•Declaration of a state of emergency. •Call for international assistance.

A disaster is given when there is an existing risk, and the risk is the result of potential haz-ards exposure and the existing vulnerabilities to damage and loss against that hazards. 16 If there is no hazard, there is no risk and vice versa: R=V*H.

5.1. ClassificationEM-DAT distinguishes two generic catego-ries for disasters natural and technological, the natural disaster category being divided into 5 sub-groups, which in turn cover 12 disaster types and more than 30 sub-types. 17 However, the technological category leaves out some other events that can be considered disasters, therefore, the human-made disas-ters are included, with two sub-groups on it, Figure 8. In the appendix 32 the definitions of

this disasters can be found.

5.2. TrendsAccording to EM-DAT, there is a growing trend of disaster occurrence in the last 100 years. 02 The impact of natural disasters is smaller as there are fewer fatalities, but the amount of disaster and the number of total affected people has increased nota-bly. Technological disasters have increased notably, and there is not exact data for all of the sociological disasters, as it is a complex field and includes many different events. But the most harmful sociological disasters are armed conflicts, including wars and terrorism. And while there is a reduction in the number of conflicts, the total amount of affected people has been increasing in the last years. 18 The graphs showing this data can be found in appendix 33.

Currently, natural disasters are the ones that affect more people, nearly 220 mil-lions affected in 2010 (requiring immediate assistance for basic survival needs), leaving 3 millions of homeless people in need of shel-ter. There might be an opportunity for design

BiologicalClimatologicalMetereologycal

Hydrological Geophysical

Homeless peopleAffected peopleDisasters types trends (1989-2011)

Disasters occurrence

Flood (H)

Figure 9.Disasters trends from 1989 to 2011. Source: EM-DAT

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to improve the assistance methods. The most common types of disasters and the ones that affect larger numbers of people are presented in the following graphs using data obtained from EM-DAT.

In these graphs can be seen that there is a clear predomination of hydrological disasters, and more specifically of floods. In further analysis the aftermaths of a flood is taken as reference for context mapping. More elabo-rated graphs on disasters types trends can be found in appendix 33.

The increase of natural disasters is also as-sociated to climate change, due to extreme weather conditions. 19 In the past, there were also natural disasters, but over the last years, the frequency is becoming higher, and the populations bigger. New phenomena have arisen like the climate refugee or environmen-tal migrant. 21 Environmental migrants are forced to leave their homeland due to sudden or long-term changes to their local environ-ment. Some studies predict that for 2050 will 200 millions of environmental migrants in the world. 21

The significance of natural disasters is increasing due to variables such as population growth, climate change, and global connectivity. [Akki-hal,2006]

5.3. ClimatesIn the first meetings with the Red Cross and TU/Eindhoven Shelter Research group, they made clear the need for new winterized equipment, but it is important to see what kind of climates can be the target of this project. The reference is the climate classifica-tion Köppen-Geiger. 22 This classification has five main groups:

•Group A: Tropical/megathermal climates.•Group B: Dry (arid and semiarid) climates.•Group C: Temperate/mesothermal cli-mates.•Group D: Continental/microthermal climate.•Group E: Polar climates

Figure 10.Demonstration for the sea level rise in Kuala Terengganu. Source: Malaysian Youth Climate Justice Network

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Textiles4Life

D-Humid continental climate

B-Desert climateC-Humid temperate climateC-Humid subtropical climate

D-Transsiberian climateD-Dry-summer cold climateE-Tundra climateE-Ice cap climate

B-Steppe climateA-Savanne climateA-Tropical rainforest climate

Earth macroclimates

N° of victims of natural Disasters by 100 000 inhabitants: 1986-2005

1000-4999 >4999EM-DAT, Centre for Research on the Epidemiology of DisastersUpdate Köppen-Geinger classification, 2007

These groups are explained further on in ap-pendix 34. We can adapt the requirements to the requirements of the countries with more disaster victims. In the following map (Figure 11) these two concepts are combined, the shadowed motif shows the countries that have left more affected people due to natural disasters in the last years.

A table has been created showing the 30 first countries with a population larger than 2.000.000 that have left more homeless victims, from 1989 to 2011, due to natural disasters. Their corresponding climates are also included to see which one is predomi-nant. The chosen data is about the homeless victims and not the total number of affected people, which is used in order to see the

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Figure 11.Map showing climates and disaster occurrence

actual need of shelter and winterized equip-ment. The restriction of 2.000.000 inhabit-ants is used to avoid small countries that have suffered one punctual major disaster in those year leaving great amounts of victims, which is not representative as a global trend. The table can be found in appendix 34, including the data of total population, and total num-ber of homeless victims. The top 12 countries

are: Sri Lanka, Laos, Haiti, Chile, Philippines, Pakistan, Benin, Somalia, North Korea, China and Madagascar.

In the complete table and in Figure 11, it can be observed that only a handful of the most affected countries have extreme cold climates. One of the most affected areas is Africa, and the climates found there are

D-Humid continental climate

B-Desert climateC-Humid temperate climateC-Humid subtropical climate

D-Transsiberian climateD-Dry-summer cold climateE-Tundra climateE-Ice cap climate

B-Steppe climateA-Savanne climateA-Tropical rainforest climate

Earth macroclimates

N° of victims of natural Disasters by 100 000 inhabitants: 1986-2005

1000-4999 >4999EM-DAT, Centre for Research on the Epidemiology of DisastersUpdate Köppen-Geinger classification, 2007

Figure 12.Köppen-Geiger climates classification and disaster occurrence

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Textiles4Life

mainly tropical (A) or warm arid (B), with high to mild temperate temperatures, making not interesting the use of winterized equipment there. But we can find two other groups with high disaster rates and cold temperatures in some areas:

•High lands in central and south America•Northern and inland Asia

Asia also has a high population, and a high disaster occurrence rate, making it interesting as target group for winterized equipment. A closer look to Asian data in climates and disaster occurrence can be found in appendix 33.

Regarding refugees and IDP’s, the situation changes. Many times there is not a survival priority, as these are long-term situations. But in some cases, there are great movements of displaced populations, which require hu-manitarian assistance as well. In appendix 34, there is a table with the concern population by country in 2010 according to UNHCR.

Concluding, these are the resulting most at-tractive countries for Textiles4Life, because of the great number of population, the climate and the disaster occurrence:

•Pakistan: They have a high disaster oc-currence, mainly earthquakes, floods and storms; and the highest population of refu-gees and IDP’s. They have a very big popula-tion and extreme winter in some areas. •China: They have very high disaster occur-rence, due mainly to their great size. The same happens with the climates.•Colombia: They have a high rate of home-less victims per disaster, and they are the second country with more refugees and IDP’s. Their climate is cold in highlands.•Turkey: They have high risk on natural disaster occurrence, and hard winters in the interior areas. Besides, Turkey is a very populated country.•Other countries like North Korea, Afghani-

stan, Nepal or Iraq are interesting as well due to their climate and their positions in the rank of victims and refugees.

To conclude, cool climates are not the main type of climate of the most affected coun-tries. Nevertheless, it should be considered that there are some countries, especially in Asia, that have a high rate of disaster occur-rence, and areas with cold winters, where winterized equipment is essential, creating an opportunity for Textiles 4 Life.

5.4. AftermathsThroughout the history, we can see how a disaster can strike an area and provoke a big impact which lasts for years. The impact can effect the living conditions, economic perfor-mance, environmental assets and/or services within the affected regions. Consequences may be long-term and may irreversibly effect the history course of that area.

Disasters leave immediately apparent effects, but they also unleash after-effects that evolve slowly or emerge a relatively long time after the disaster has occurred. The main losses of a disaster can be classified into these levels, the definitions can be found on appendix 33 23:

• Casualties.• Direct victims.• Direct damages.• Indirect losses.• Macroeconomic effects.

These effects can be classified by the sector where they take place. There are three main sectors, with several subdivisions that can embrace the disaster aftermath in the country level. 24 In the following table, some examples of direct damages, indirect losses and macro-economic effects are explained by sectors.

31


1. Direct damages 2. Indirect losses 3. Macroeconomic effects

Soci

al s

ecto

rs

Housing and settlements

Houses and dwellings Construction of shelters Increase of the con-struction activity

Education and culture

Schools, institutions... Reparation costs Employment losses

Health sector Clinics, hospitals, research centres...

Reinforcement of local services

Reduction of scientific research results

Infr

astr

uct

ure

Energy Electricity generation plants

Temporary supply of electricity

Implementation of renewable energies

Drinking water and sanitation

Broken drinking water supply equipment

Reductions in potable water output

Increase of infectious diseases

Transport and communica-tions

Coastal roads, har-bours, railways

Rehabilitation activities Loss of productivity as a result of people not be-ing able to travel from rural to urban centres

Eco

no

mic

sec

tors Agriculture Plantations, farms,

machinery Stock losses Price rises

Trade and industry

Facilities, machinery, vehicles

Interruption of produc-tion

Reduction of the expor-tations

Tourism Hotels, cultural attrac-tions, environmental erosion

Lower demand of related services as res-taurants, taxis, clubs

Reductions in foreign-currency revenue (from the export of services)

From the previous table, it can be observed that there are more disaster consequences-types than just casualties or destroyed facilities. Apart from these sectorial losses, there might be other overall cross-sectorial aftermaths, like damages to the environment, exposure of vulnerable population groups like women or elderly, and the vulnerability of employment and income generation.

CasesTo understand better the range of factors that can provoke different aftermaths, two recent cases are compared: the Chilean and Haitian earthquakes that took place in 2010. The main finding here is to observe how the earthquake in Chile was stronger than the one that struck Haiti, and yet the aftermath in

Haiti was considerably more harmful. The fact that the Haitian earthquake epicentre was at the edge of Port-au-Prince is one reason, provoking the destruction of most hospitals, public infrastructure and institutions. How-ever, Chile, being a wealthier country was better prepared, with strict building codes, robust emergency response programmes and a extensive experience handling seismic catastrophes. The Haitian community had not previously experienced an earthquake when the disaster destroyed the poorly-constructed buildings of Port-au-Prince. Apart from the differences in preparedness, in Chile there was a high rate of homeless victims too, despite the response being extremely differ-ent in both cases. One year after the disaster, 810.000 people in Haiti were still remaining

Table 1.Aftermath examples

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in spontaneous or organised camps 25, while in Chile, 90% of the houses and 99% of the infrastructure and institution reconstruction works were already finished 26, in spite of the fact that Haitian raised funds were fifty times as much as Chilean funds. The main differ-ence in this case, among these countries was their wealth as a state, which allowed Chile to create a better response to the earthquake and speed up the recovery. A table compar-ing both disasters can be found on appendix

33.

5.5. ConclusionsTypes To summarise, we can say that almost any-thing that causes a situation of emergency in a large, populated area, leading to deaths, in-jury and/or major material and environmental damages, can be called disaster. The origins can be diverse, from human causes, like wars, or transport accidents, to natural causes, like earthquakes or storms. The most harmful kinds of disasters are floods, in natural disas-ters category, and armed conflicts, in human-made disasters. The statistics show that natu-ral disasters are increasing in occurrence and, every time, more people are affected. Armed conflicts, instead, are decreasing over the last years. However, in both kinds of disasters, the victims might be displaced from their old houses, and as they need similar assistance, both kinds of situation can be the focus for Textiles 4 Life.

ClimateThe suggestion of creating winterized equip-ment is a focus of this assignment, as it is important to know the actual need of such equipment and what kind of climate should be the target. The most common climate in the majority of the affected areas is warm or mild-warm, but there are some areas, mainly in Asia, with a great disaster occurrence rate, that have cold temperatures during winter (see appendix 34 for all the areas and tem-peratures). Studying these potential areas that might need extra winterisation, and also con-sidering the challenges that a winter climate can add to disasters relief, explained in further chapters, it seems interesting to focus on winterized solutions for mild to cold climates in Asia. Also, the Central and South America highlands can be a potential area, even though they have had a considerably lower number of victims. Mild to cold climates are Figure 13.Haiti (above) and Chile (below) aerial

views of affected areas

33


those that have at least four months with an average temperature lower than 18ºC, when human thermal comfort is not ensured. Hence, we will focus on products that can insulate from -3ºC to 18ºC, as this is the most common range in mild to cold climates.

AftermathThe aftermath is directly related to the vulner-ability of the affected area, in regards to the advanced preparedness, but also the adap-tion and response capacity. This fact can be seen clearly in the Haitian and Chilean com-parison. It can be observed that the prepared-ness and the response capacity is directly re-lated with the development level of the area, thus, it can be stated that underdeveloped areas are more vulnerable to disasters. The aftermaths go beyond just structural damage and casualties, as it may affect the economy of the country in deep ways, like an increase in the unemployment rate, the demand for basic goods, or the spread of epidemics. Consequently, when it comes to relief efforts, the long-term effects of a region’s actions should be carefully studied, in order to avoid the restraint of the overall development in the area. On the other hand, a disaster can be seen also as an opportunity to start from zero, and to solve previous internal problems, especially in areas with social inequalities.

34

Textiles4Life

6. Disaster management

6666666666 66666

When a large disaster strikes an area, the efficient coordination of the all the involved parties is essential in making an effective reaction, and to optimise all the resources. The development of frameworks and working methods for every detail of disaster manage-ment is widespread, and well know by relief agencies. Nonetheless, every disaster is differ-ent, and they will need different responses, making it complex to create a universal as-sistance method. The Red Cross and Crescent movement in conjunction with other relief organisations have created minimum stand-ards to fulfil in every disaster relief situation; they are reflected in “The Sphere project”27 These standards are widely accepted by the relief organisations and are use as a refer-ence. They state the general standards, and some key indicators and guidance notes to measure and carry them out. Further in the design process, these standards and corre-sponding key indicators and guidance notes, will be used as the basis and inspiration for design requirements.

6.1. Phases•In disaster management there are four widely known phases, which are conceived as a continuous cycle 28 (Figure 14):•Mitigation: to eliminate or reduce the probability of disaster occurrence, or to reduce the effects of unavoidable disasters. Mitigation aims to reduce the vulnerability of the area. •Preparedness: to limit the impact of disas-ter on the area and on the people and to be

able to respond to any emergency situa-tion. This is done through programs that strengthen the technical and managerial capacity of governments, organisations, and communities.•Response: to provide immediate assistance to maintain life, to improve health and sup-port the morale of the affected population. It includes the situation assessment and the mobilisation of the necessary emergency services and first responders in the disaster area. The focus in the response phase is on meeting the basic needs of the people until more permanent and sustainable solutions can be found.•Recovery: to restore the affected area to its previous state, or till a point when they are self-sufficient. There is no distinct point

Mitigation

Prepared

nessResponse

Reco

very

Disaster

SustainableDevelopment

HumanitarianAction

Figure 14.Disaster phases

35

Context Analysis_� Disaster management

at which immediate relief changes into re-covery and then into long-term sustainable development. And in the recovery efforts, mitigation is included back, making efforts to reduce the vulnerability against disasters.

The first two phases, mitigation and pre-paredness, need to be implemented locally, as they will depend on the incorporation of appropriate measures in national and regional development planning. The potential participation of KICI in those stages would be reduced considerably, as they are focused on management and planning. Furthermore, the Dutch Red Cross have a more relevant role in the humanitarian action, thus, the research context should be focused on response and recovery, or simply “disaster relief”.

6.2. AssistanceThe humanitarian response is an enormous and intricate conjunction of actions and or-ganisations. There are 18 different established methods of assistance after a disaster, which are divided into four categories: labour meth-ods, material methods, support methods, and quality methods (appendix 35).29 It seems logical to focus on the material methods, as to understand which products are used and what are the gaps, so KICI can develop prod-ucts for these gaps. However, it is important to have in mind the other methods too. It could also be interesting to create another typology of products that will support other kinds of assistance, such as labour or support methods. The material methods are com-

monly known by the name of non-food items (NFI), which is explained further in chapter 35.

The relief actions have different priorities depending on the disaster stage. In appendix 35 the relief actions are represented over the time. 30 Nevertheless, it is needed to know the main priorities in are every case, and to make a deep and concise assessment. In a specific situation with many injured, health care could be the first priority, but maybe in a climatological event - such as a flood, it could be evacuation and/or shelter. In gen-eral, the most basic human needs should be attended to first, while sequentially address-ing higher-order needs. The needs can be categorised into the following cross-subject issues, which will be prioritized according the local assessment: Agriculture; camp coordina-tion/management; early recovery; education; emergency shelter; emergency telecommuni-cations; health; logistics; nutrition; protection; and water, sanitation and hygiene (WASH). An example of a prioritized timeline with every cluster on it is shown in Figure 15.

6.3. Relief organisationsIn disaster situations, local governments are the first line of response when the capa-bilities of national governments have been exhausted, leading eventually to a call for international help, generally from the UN. There are two kinds of organisations that take part in relief response: the coordination agencies, and the implementation agencies.

AgricultureCamp coordination

Early recoveryEducation

Emergency shelterTelecommunications

HealthLogistics

NutritionProtection

WASHweeks after disaster

Figure 15.Cluster timeline

6

36

Textiles4Life

The coordinating agencies decide which actors should/can do what, and try to avoid redundant work and unnecessary expense. Hence, it could be interesting for Textiles 4 Life to know the potential customers besides of the Red Cross.

6.4. ConclusionTextiles4Life should be focused on the response and recovery phases, where the Dutch Red Cross and most of Dutch NGOs are working internationally, because the preparedness and mitigation are done tra-ditionally locally, and not so many materials are delivered. There is not a concise point when the recovery starts, and the emergency response ends, consequently, it is interesting to develop solutions that can be implemented in the emergency stage but keeping an eye on the recovery.The developed solutions aim to be mate-rial products (NFI), but considering other ways of support than just the material ones. They could open new paths for innovative solutions with a bigger potential, making it more interesting for the purchasers (NGOs). Emergency shelter and early recovery are the clusters where Textiles 4 Life solutions can be implemented more easily, but also consider-ing all of them, as they all together should be working in the field.

37

Context Analysis_� Selecting procurement

7. Selecting procurement

7777777777 77777

Non-food items (NFIs) are distributed in large numbers as part of humanitarian assistance programmes. From the first days of emer-gency through to durable solutions, NFI distributions help to save lives and restore a sense of home following a conflict or natural disaster. NFIs include General Household Support Items, such as blankets and cook sets; Household Shelter Construction Support

Items, such as tool kits and construction ma-terials; and Household WASH Support Items, such as mosquito nets and household water treatment (Figure 16).31

Selecting what, when and how to give these supporting materials is a very important task for the relief organisations. The procure-ment is chosen according the different area and community needs and availability of the products. There are several factors that influence the selection of NFIs mentioned in this chapter that will directly effect the design criteria for Textiles 4 Life.

7.1. Climate and environ-mentThe climate of the area is one of the main factors that will influence the choice of NFIs. Different climates have different priori-ties. Cold climates might involved a bigger challenge, with temperatures below freez-ing, people will die within one day without adequate protection from the elements. Rain and wind increase heat transfer away from the body. Therefore survival is often depend-

General Household Support Items

Household Shelter Construction Support Items

Household WASH Support Items

Figure 16.NFI categories

Figure 17.Winter shelter priorities

ClothesBlankets

Shelter

Shelter priorities

Mattress Wind proofing Stove Flooring Wall and roof insulation

38

Textiles4Life

ent upon prioritizing the distribution of NFIs to best provide thermal comfort. The main priorities and considerations for NFI items in cold climates are shown in Figure 17.

The most common thermal products used in disaster relief will be shown in the next chapter. Traditionally the NFIs are conceived for temperate and warm climates because they have been the most common disaster climates, as it was shown in chapter 5.3. Therefore, the winterized relief equipment is a relatively a new approach 32, giving an opportunity for Textiles4Life of develop new products. The main insulation ways are shown in the chapter 10.4.

7.2. Post disaster stage

and logistics. Materials are commonly dis-patched internationally from pre-positioned stockpiles. In the first weeks, packages and materials are requested on the basis of initial assessments and consultation. Later, after the emergency phase, more NFIs are distributed and those should be procured locally and regionally.

Unluckily, there are some devastated areas where the emergency phase lasts longer, and they need to import bigger quantities of NFIs. This happens mainly in areas with armed con-flicts, or areas where a major natural disaster took place.

7.3. Local economyWhen a disaster hits a developed economy, the amount of material damages is normally larger than in underdeveloped countries, even though the recovery in an underdeveloped country takes longer than in an underde-veloped one (as it was shown in the com-parison with Chile and Haiti in chapter 5.4 and appendix 35). The relief measures taken should try to encourage the local economy, and avoid its stagnation. In many cases, cash

Stockpilled emergency NFIs

Locally and regionally

procured NFIs

time

Durable solutions

Emergency Recovery

Figure 18.Procurement in disaster relief

Figure 19.Women from Yeumbel North collect their cash vouchers, which they can redeem at

local food stores to buy rice, millet, maize, sugar and oil.

As it was explained in chapter 6.1, the needs in disaster response vary depending on the stage of response. NFIs should be distrib-uted from the emergency phase till durable solutions are achieved. Figure 18 illustrates how, over the duration of the response, the demand for NFIs changes. Initially, a higher proportion of stockpiled NFIs are distributed, if there are constraints upon local availability

39


vouchers are preferred to relief products, so the local market is promoted. The provision of NFIs should be done through local market-ers and producers whenever possible. This is closely related with the previous section, in an early emergency stage, local markets can-not be expected to provide all the solutions, and international supplies of NFIs should be arranged.

7.4. InvestmentThe humanitarian response is dependent on the collected funds for the specific causes. The Red Cross, for instance, uses the Disaster Relief Emergency Fund (DREF) for the immedi-ate assistance, assigning a first budget for the emergency. But throughout the response and recovery, financing becomes dependent on external funding from public and private individuals and organisations. Different disas-ters receive different reactions from external donors; the most extreme recent cases are Pakistan and Haiti, with Pakistan receiving 150 times less money per victim than Haiti. In Figure 20 the distribution of funds divided by clusters in the Pakistan 2010 floods is shown. 33 All the expenses should be minimised for a better use of the funds.

Not surprisingly, the unit price of the NFIs should be reduced to a minimum, and normally, quantity comes before quality, as to provide supplies to the most possible victims. Although in the case of winterized equip-ment, this rule may not be applied; by provid-ing good quality products that last longer and perform better, the organisations can reduce the quantity of required items, improve the

logistics and reduce the final cost.

7.5. Logistics and supply timeLogistics plays a critical role in disaster relief. Getting the “right product, to the right place,

at the right time” takes on new meaning when infrastructures are severely damaged or destroyed. The immediate spike in demand for supplies is an order of magnitude greater than most supply chains are equipped to handle. In short, disaster relief is a unique and specialised type of supply chain and logistics problem, the costs that it might entail is big-ger than any other.

There are some factors related to the logistics that will influence the design of relief items:

•Supply time: The demand in a very short period of items will be of a great dimension, the suppliers must be able to have enough stock available. •Storage preservation: Due to that enor-mous demand, the supplies should be kept

Logistics, and Coordination

Shelter/NFI

Food Security

WASH Health

Figure 20.Funds distribution by the clusters in the Pakistan floods of 2010. (Source: OCHA)

Logistics is often the largest and most complex ele-ment of relief operations. [UNDP,1993]

40

Textiles4Life

for long times in storages, (form the relief organisation as well as from the supplier itself). Therefore they should be resistant to the possible damages and non-degradable.•Ergonomics and transportability: The infra-structures in case of natural disasters might be inoperative, and the area to deliver could be complicated to reach, hence the supplies should be easy to carry, also for the victims, as they might need to walk kilometres till reach their settlement. •Space and weight efficiency: To save logistics costs, the space that the supplies occupy during transportation should be minimised as well as the weight.•Packages: The supply of NFI should be done as fast as possible, consequently the efficiency of the packages plays a very im-portant role. The use of prepackaged joint solutions, as kitchen sets, or winterisation packs should be promoted to decrease the supply time.

7.6. ImplementationIn this context, research on emergency situ-ations are generalised, but as mentioned

previously, every situation is unique, and the needs from one victim to another may be completely different. The supplied items should be conceived taking this into account. It means that the initial purpose for which the products were conceived might not be the final use-context. Imagination and improvisa-tion are key factors in the relief field, and get-ting the most of what is available is a priority. The flexibility of the provided solutions is a big advantage here, a good example being the plastic tarpaulins shown in next chapter that can be used as flooring, insulation, roof-ing, and other materials.

The chosen supplies should be provided with the awareness that not all the facilities and infrastructure that will be needed to imple-ment them will be found in the field, like tools, electricity supply or heat sources, in addition to adverse environmental conditions that may occur. Besides these factors, it is preferable that the products do not require skilled labour, and in the best-case scenario, are implemented with basic skills, such as car-pentry, welding or sewing. Consequently, the assembly operations and instructions should

Figure 21.Improvising Tents in Huacarpay, Peru after flooding. UNOCHA

41


be kept simple and easy to understand by anyone, thus reducing the need for special-ised relief workers.

7.7. Cultural appropriate-nessMany products that we (Western culture) see as universally known, might not be as ubiq-uitous in other cultures. Cultural acceptance is another criteria for selecting NFIs, which should carry same importance as the price. If a product is not accepted, it might imply that it will be disregarded and not used.

An example of a shelter failure due to cultural matters can be found in the 1975 earthquake that took place in Lice, Turkey. 34 The housing policy was to provide prefabricated homes, thus moving the town of Lice 2 km. to the south to avoid risk exposure. This decision be-came unpopular with the residents, and was made without their participation. The new site did not possess climatic shelter from the hillside, took valuable agricultural land out of use, and was initially without water supply. The prefabricated houses were built rapidly (1,568 units in 54 days), and therefore the houses had many deficiencies: climatic and cultural unsuitability; no provision for animals; they were too small; and they did little to generate local work. Essentially, they reflected an urban middle class set of values, in sharp contrast to rural values and priorities. Either way, the prefabricated houses were occupied in 90% contrasting with the other housing option, polyurethane igloos, that were a near complete failure, as just 10% of them were occupied. The igloos were discarded from then on as a relief option. (Figure 22)

There are different approaches to ensure cultural acceptance. One strategy, and also the most used in early emergency phases, is to use simple and common products with neutral characteristics, for instance grey

blankets, which avoid colour connotations, and cultural product typologies. Although this process entails complexities, for example, just in bedding, every culture has different habits bringing different typologies of sleeping prod-ucts. Therefore, the most simple products should be considered in early stages, but in more advance stages, as the products should be procured locally, the solutions can be cus-tomised to cultures and personal needs. The ideal situation would be to provide personal solutions in early stages.

7.8. Environmental sus-tainability An area that has suffered a major disaster is more vulnerable to the degradation of its environment than in normal conditions, for example, by damaging the ecosystem or producing waste. Human settlements gener-ally rely on limited natural resources. In the aftermath of a natural disaster, where the natural environment is already damaged, ad-ditional demands on the environment during emergency, recovery and reconstruction are often necessary. Whenever possible, the relief solutions should be offered and approached in ways that produce the least impact on the environment, such as considering existing land and wooded areas when distributing timber for construction or using transitional shelters which can be upgraded over the longer term, reducing immediate impact on the environment.

It is difficult to estimate the end of life of the NFIs. In these situations of high necessity, everything is used for anything, and second uses are given to the products that are no longer needed in the primary context; but eventually they will end as waste, therefore, a sustainable end-of-life should always be considered.

7.9. SecurityThe security of the victims should be ensured

42

Textiles4Life

and the products should avoid provoking new danger situations. To start with, the product designs should consider that there are normally stoves or cooking fires close to the items, therefore they should not be easily flammable. Besides the products should al-low for a fast escape, due to the risk of new disaster events, or fire due to the stoves. Dif-ferent age groups and disabled people should also be taken into account when designing the equipment, as well as the needed mainte-nance measures of the products.

7.10. ConclusionThe provision of the required relief supplies is closely related with the assessment of the disaster situation, and many factors will influ-ence these choices. The factors mentioned

here will lead to the requirements, criteria and wishes in the design conceptualization. The importance of each one varies depend-ing on the stakeholder, for example the cultural integration is a larger issue for the victims than for the developers, and the price is a major issue for the relief organisations. Therefore, some factors will be prioritized in the design phase for each concept, as every concept will have a different focus, as was explained in chapter 1.1.

The right assessment of the actual needs in a disaster involves many factors mentioned here, and these will define a general require-ment list for any kind of product.

Figure 22.Igloos shelters (left) An added porch to a new prefabricated home for animals and protection (right).

43

Context Analysis_� Existing products

8. Existing products

8888888888 8888 8

•Transitional shelters (1 years - 10 years), more elaborated structures built to improve the emergency shelter and to become a decent living space.•Permanent shelter (>10 years) built houses normally becoming permanent housing.

8.2. Standard NFIThere are different kinds of material prod-ucts used for disaster relief. They are called non-food items (NFIs). Within the NFIs, the WASH (Water and sanitation) products are not considered as a target, therefore what is mentioned here are the core items for General Household Support Items and some of the Household Shelter Construction Sup-port Items that can be relevant for the shelter winterization3566. They are shown in Figure 24, and further descriptions can be found in appendix 35:

Blankets and quilts •Woollen woven blankets•Fleece blankets•Quilts (polypropylene).

Bedding: Mats, mattresses and beds

•Mats made of woven straw or plastic strips•Mats based on closed cell foam (locally procured)•Mattresses made of foam or composites of materials (locally procured)•Beds with steel or wooden frames

Cook and kitchen sets

In the disaster relief market, many different successful solutions can be found however, just a few of them are in widespread use. Organisations such as Red Cross, Médecins Sans Frontières or UNHCR have their own cat-alogues with standardised items. They are the guide for both suppliers and field workers. The workers can have a reference to know what it is available, and the potential sup-pliers can see the product specifications and requirements. Besides this, there are some new initiatives from different agencies and producers that have reached the market suc-cessfully, despite the slow and procurement bureaucratic process. These new items should be tested in situ, and the big relief agencies are reluctant to do so. Small agencies can be a target too, although their power is smaller and sometimes the do not participate in the emergency stage, but in recovery stages by providing workforce. We will take a look to the most commonly used items, so we can see existing gaps, and how to incorporate new products to interact or substitute the current ones.

8.1. SheltersThere are three main categories to classify the kind of shelters, depending on the life span of each one, everyone with different character-istics. Some examples are shown in Figure 23, and every type is explained in appendix 35:

•Emergency shelters (<1 years), normally tents and rapid deployment shelters to survive.

44

Textiles4Life

Stoves and fuel•Biomass, including wood, charcoal, animal dung, sawdust, briquettes;•Fossil fuels, including kerosene, diesel, gas, coal•Electricity•Other energy sources, including solar power and biogas.

Plastic sheeting as a covering (Tar-paulin)Corrugated Galvanised Iron (CGI) Bricks, blocks and bindersFixings: rope, wire, nails, metal strappingTools

Figure 23. Light weight tents in a refugee camp at Dadaab in north-east Kenya (above), Transitional shelters in Manatkadu IDP camp, Jaffna district, Sri Lanka (middle), construction of a home in southern

Kyrgyzstan (below); source: UNHCR.Standard NFI

45


Plastic strips mats

Tool kit

Stove heaters

Kitchen set

CGI

Tarpaulins

Blankets

Foam mattressesFigure 24.NFIs from the catalogue of IFRC

46

Textiles4Life

Figure 25.Winterisation kit carried by a Pakistani (above) source: UNHCR; sandbag winterized shelter (middle left) source: UNHCR; Winterized shelter with reclaimed materials (middle right) source: Medair;

Winterisation upgraded shelters in Afghanistan (below) source: Shelter Projects 2009.

47


8.3. WinterisationIn the course of disaster history, there have been some cases where extra winter-proof solutions have been provided, or where the current solutions have been improved to stand winter climates. The priorities in these cases were described in chapter 7.1. In this section, some strategies and practical cases are shown. The main cases where winteri-sation was massively needed took place in Pakistan; firstly in the earthquake of 2005, and later in the 2010 floods. It also happened in an Afghan refugee camp in 2009, where the winterisation of 379 family tents was re-quired. In these situations, the agencies create strategies for fast winterisation, and the vic-tims use whatever they find to insulate their shelters, for instance, old clothes as flooring, shown on Figure 26. Several strategies have been followed:

Winterisation kitsOne of the most widely used policies is the provision of winterisation kits for non-win-terized tents. A winterisation kit may include:

3 blankets per person plus 4 mattresses, 2 plastic sheeting for floor and a stove per tent. This was used as a rapid measure due to the emergency situation, but this did not completely fulfil the winter needs. Given the large demand for firewood for heating tents or temporary shelters in combination with the timber required for reconstruction, a negative impact on the environment was feared. 36 The price for this winterisation kits, considering 5 people per family, and the established prices by the IFRC in their catalogue is:

15 blankets: (15*6) 90 Swiss Francs (73,37 €)4 mattresses: (4*8) 32 Swiss Francs (26,09 €)2 plastic sheeting: (2*15) 30 Swiss Francs (24,46 €)Heating stove: Not indicated, dependent on availability, estimation: higher than 100 Swiss Francs (81,53 €)TOTAL: 252 Swiss Francs (205,45€)

Built winterized sheltersSome transitional winterized one-room shel-ters were built in Pakistan to stand the winter. 37 Most of the shelters were built using reclaimed materials, as well as distributed ma-terials and toolkits. The corrugated iron and the timber were the most commonly reused materials. One of the main strategies was the use of sandbags as insulation. The shelter de-sign had low walls and a sloping corrugated iron roof. Its base was made of soil. Sandbags were provided with the intention they will be filled with lightweight material and placed against the corrugated iron as insulation, but this method was not culturally accepted, and was discarded.

Winterized existing tentsIn 2009 a temporary transit camp in Afghani-stan was in need of winterisation due to the extreme climatic conditions. They improve the existing tents, a production line was set up in the camp to build bamboo and plastic sheet-ing shelters with extra winterized measures,

Figure 26. Tent pitched on wet concrete slap with floor insulation of cardboard and ‘old clothes’.

Source: Oxfam

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such as stoves, extra clothing, insulated bath units, and grounded water pipelines to avoid water freezing. The shelters were known as ‘Weather Mitigating Tent Shelters’ (WMTS’) and were provided as a temporary shelter suitable for winter. In Figure 25 the type of construction can be seen. One of the main conflicts that arose with this measure was that the families were expecting permanent solutions, not just a temporary upgrade. 38

types of Hexayurt available, depending on the purpose and application. They are currently being tested by several organisations, like the American Red Cross. The strength of the Hexayurt design lies in its simplicity. It does not required skilled labour for its construction and the price (depending on the availability of the materials), can be as low as $100. But simplicity is also the weakness of the shelter; there is not enough consideration of deterioration by humidity, ventilation of the interior, etc. 39

Life Cube, Inc.It is a fully equipped shelter that can be deployed in 10 minutes by two persons. The shipping container serves a dual purpose; unfolding it creates a raised platform and it integrates steel hoops that unfold to allow easy manoeuvrability over abrupt terrain. The shelter includes an inflatable canopy, sleep-ing gear, an electrical system with 12-Volt battery, solar panel trickle charger, lighting, electric pump, and communications station, a propane system with cooking stove and catalytic heater, and an infrastructure system with a table and telescopic uprights for wind support. The main strengths of Life Cube are the transportability, its fast deployment, and it is a very complete emergency shelter, how-ever the volume is still too large and the price is too high, as it costs from $12.709 (9.449 €) to $21.944 (16.315 €), depending on the included gear. This makes it more attractive for the military market than for emergencies relief. 40

LeafBedLeafBed is a relief bed made out of cardboard and assembled from 4 identical modules that can have alternative uses. LeafBed offers a different supply chain model; using locally available materials and manufactur-ing tools to produce locally, the LeafBed can be “printed” anywhere where there is

“We came home hoping to receive a full house with brick and win-dows. All we received was a tent in a camp with no privacy and not on our own land. This organisa-tion helped us to build shelters to save us for winter. The shelters are better than a tent but we hope to have a full house soon.”

8.4. Non-standard solutionsThere are hundreds of different projects and designs for disaster relief, but few of them are actually being used and are available in the market - even fewer are successful. The pro-cess of getting your product into the market and being purchased by the big relief agen-cies can take years. The product needs to show its efficiency and advantages over the existing products. In this section, some of the ideas and products that are being developed are shown, as well as the common features that made them succeed. (Figure 27)

HexayurtThe Hexayurt is a simplified and open-source disaster relief shelter design. It has a geo-desic shape and has been designed to be constructed out of 4x8 foot (1,2x2,4 m) sheet materials. The base material can be very diverse: aluminium, plywood or even cardboard, and duct-tape as the main joint. Hexayurt has created a platform for collabo-rative improvements, and there are several

49


Figure 27.From top to bottom: Hexayurt, Life Cube, Inc., LeafBed and ShelterBox

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a cardboard retailer, reducing logistics cost significantly. It can stand more than 300 kilograms. The local production and low price is the main advantage of LeafBed; the weak-ness could be the cultural adaptation, as it can be perceived as low quality and normally it is used with add-on products as mattresses, mats or blankets. 41

ShelterBoxShelterBox is an international disaster relief charity that provides portable refuge to disaster victims around the world. Each box supplies families with a tent and lifesaving equipment to use while they are displaced or homeless. The contents are tailored to the nature and location of the disaster. One donation of 590£ (688€) contains a complete box including transportation and implemen-tation. A tracking system allows people and groups making donations to track when and where the boxes purchased by their dona-tions are sent. Here it can be seen again how prepackage solutions are a complete and fast solution for emergency events, and another good point is that you can track the dona-tions. The price is not high considering that the transportation is included. The only incon-venience is that it is not conceived for tran-sitional events, and the cultural acceptance can be questionable. The strategic positioning that the this project has is also a high advan-tage, as its green box is an standing icon that increases its visual presence. Additionally, through their extensive informative website is a benefit, as shown by the consequential potential rise of the donations. 42

8.5. ConclusionGaps The market of relief items is an outdated mar-ket, where some products are already used for decades, but they follow strict procedures that are slow to change. The quality of the products sent in emergency stages is gener-ally low, as they need to have reasonable prices in order to reach the highest number of victims. This makes it such that supplies need to be delivered in greater quantities and more often, therefore achieving better quality can save logistic time and costs, even if price will be always a constraint. Members of the Red Cross through spoken interviews have confirmed this theory, and have highlighted the need for insulation from the floor, as the provision of mattresses is currently inefficient. The results from these interviews can be seen in appendix 36.

Specialised equipment designed for winter climates is a new approach. The most com-monly used measures are the extra provision of products like clothes, blankets and tar-paulins, which are not specially designed for winter climates. If the situation is not urgent and there is sufficient budget and time, the agencies opt for the construction of winter-ized transitional shelters, trying to involve the victims in the design and construction process.

TrendsThere are few examples of real and feasible innovations for emergencies, and they all share the qualities of fast supply time, and logistic simplicity. The simplicity in the design and its open availability is also shared by Hexayurt and LeafBed, making it available for manufacturing anywhere. ShelterBox and Life Cube Inc. are both a complete delivery solution, making the container part of the product and reducing the time of dividing

51


supplies among the victims with prepackage solutions. The Red Cross also promotes the delivery of boxes with all the basic household items, Figure 28. 43

StrategyThe best strategy for Textiles 4 Life will be to create special winterized items to deliver in emergency situations, with a higher profile than the existing ones, while keeping logistics and production costs low. It is not possible to make a comparison on the basis of unit price, as there are not standardised winterized prod-ucts yet, but these products can be compared by price of the complete winterized kit, and the items that it would substitute. Integrating the mode of transportation into the product price could be also an interesting way, or at least a solution to the transportation strategy.

The fact that sharing knowledge of propri-etary products can be counterproductive for KICI is a risk as competitors may steal designs. However, open-hardware might be another strategy, making an open platform like the Hexayurt, where people can contribute and nobody will have the rights of the designs.

Figure 28.IFRC kit with different household items

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9. VictimsIn this chapter, the consequences that a dis-aster might bring to individuals, families and communities are researched, with the aim to identify the most affected victims, and how a disaster may affect their lives.

9.1. Opportunity for BoPWhen a disaster strikes, generally the most affected population is found in the least developed areas, also called Base of the Pyra-mid (BoP). The main reason for this is that theses people are more vulnerable, and the developed communities that have better pre-paredness and reaction power. Although the larger economic losses occur in developed countries, the biggest social problems can be found within BoP communities. Most of the NGO efforts are thus oriented to this target group, and mostly at the later stages, like the recovery. As it was seen in the comparison of the Haiti and Chile earthquakes (chapter 5.4 and appendix 35), the disaster aftermath in less developed regions are more harmful, and the agencies efforts have to be multiplied in these areas. The Base of the Pyramid, accord-ing to the definition given by C.K. Prahalad, are the “2.5 billion people who live on less than $2.50 per day.” 44

For developed countries, when a disaster event happens, the ideal approach is to return to the previous situation as soon as possible. But when disasters happen in underdeveloped countries, the previous situation could already be precarious, and the reconstruction and recovery efforts can

be orientated to create an improved situa-tion and a social impact. Where there is an opportunity for development and recovery, efforts should be seen like it. 45

Minding this opportunity that a disaster can bring, the outcome of Textiles4Life could have a positive impact in the life-development of the victims, aside from just helping in the relief efforts. To find the area where we can have the most impact, the next sections explain the main disaster aftermaths in BoP communities and case studies are shown.

9.2. Heath consequencesLong after the immediate threat passes, a natural disaster can continue to take a deadly toll on people. Outbreaks of infec-tious diseases following hurricanes, cyclones, floods, tsunamis and earthquakes are not uncommon in the developing world. Most post-disaster diseases are caused by poor sanitation, a lack of safe drinking water and contaminated food.

Also the climate conditions can contribute to the creation and spread of diseases. Cold temperatures in combination with humidity can provoke serious health problems, like respiratory diseases, and eventually lead to hypothermia, frostbite and death. 46 The lack of proper shelter can lead to health problems, not just because of extreme climates, but also for lack of hygiene, or protection from the environment, like floor dust.

Besides of physical health, after experienc-

9999999999 99999

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Context Analysis_� Victims

9

ing a natural disaster, many individuals can develop severe post-traumatic stress disorders or withdraw into states of depression.

9.3. Social consequencesThere are some myths related to the social behaviour that victims enact after a disaster, like panic, violence or looting. However, the reality is different and it has been seen that communities tend to have prosocial behav-iour, and collaborate in initiatives for recon-struction and rehabilitation. 47 Nevertheless, it should be considered that the agencies’ relief efforts should be carefully planned, as they can create rivalry among families and victims’ communities.

Regarding refugees and displaced people, the social responses can be different. They are forced to leave their land, and they can-not work for recovery, as their situation is temporal and not regulated, creating social discontent.

In camps, when there is overpopulation, con-flicts can arise due to irritations from noise, lack of privacy, the proximity of neighbours, and lack of playgrounds or parks. Also this occurs because of a lack of privacy, space or divisions within a family shelter.

9.4. Economical conse-quencesThe economic impact that a disaster brings

Figure 29.Women empowerment initiatives in Pakistan (above) and irrigation canal construction to improve agriculture and job creation in Haiti (below) sources: ActionAid and USAID

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to the BoP victims is primarily material losses, like households and local businesses, but is not so significant for financial assets’ losses, because,they did not account for them prior to the disaster. Nevertheless, it may deeply affect their livelihood, especially if agriculture properties or farm resources, for instance, are lost. Furthermore, they may find themselves without a job and an income source.

In post-disaster areas, due to the great amount of damages, the provision of basic products can be affected, and bring a rise on their prices, worsening the families’ economic situation.

9.5. Infrastructural conse-quencesThe damage of public infrastructures creates a situation where families might not have access to basic services, such as water sanita-tion, education or health care. This implies that victims have to walk several kilometres to obtain basic goods as water or medical assistance. It might also imply the loss of their job positions, due the lack of infrastructure to continue working, as could happen in an industrial sector.

The households can be affected by the cut-off of services like as water sanitation, com-munications and electricity.

9.6. Cross-cutting issuesThere are several victims groups that should be carefully protected as they might suffer more than the rest. For that, these following crosscutting issues are considered in disaster relief. They are explained in detail on appen-dix 35: 48

•Age•Gender•HIV/AIDS•Disabled people

9.7. Case study - Pakistan villagersTo understand better how a disaster affects the life of a BoP community, the case of the Pakistan villagers that have been affected by the floods that took place from the 26th of July to the 7th of August of 2010 is pre-sented.

The most affected area was the north region of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, with 84% of the population living in rural areas, and having farming as their main livelihood. 49 The cli-mate varies immensely, from cold and snowy winters in the north to hot and arid summers in the south. The floods submerged 69000 km2 of Pakistan’s most fertile crop land, killed 200,000 livestock and washed away massive amounts of grain, and directly affected about 20 million people. The damage to structures was estimated to exceed 2.5 billion€. 50

Cultural dimensionsTo understand the Pakistani culture better, the cultural dimensions stated by Hofstede 51 are used to give us a better understanding of

PDI

IDV

MASUAI

LTO

Figure 30. Hofstede cultural dimensions in Pakistan

55


the people of Pakistan. There are five cultural dimensions, with different scores for each one, determining the power (equality versus inequality), collectivism (versus individualism), uncertainty avoidance (versus tolerance), masculinity (versus femininity), and temporal orientation of the national culture. In regards to Pakistan, we find that they score 55 in power distance, meaning they are a hierarchi-cal society, people accept an order in which everybody has a place and which needs no further justification. This reflects inherent ine-qualities and subordination within the culture. In the second variable, with a score of 14, Pakistan is considered a collectivistic society. This is manifest in a close long-term commit-ment to the member ‘group’, be that a fam-ily, extended family, or extended relationships. Loyalty, societal rules and regulations are pre-sent. The society fosters strong relationships where everyone takes responsibility for fellow members of their group. Masculinity scores 50, and Pakistan is thus a masculine society. In masculine countries people “live in order to work”, managers are expected to be decisive and assertive, there is an emphasis on equity, competition and performance. Conflicts are resolved by fighting them out. They exhibit a high uncertainty avoidance, 70, and main-tain rigid codes of belief and behaviour and are intolerant of unorthodox behaviour and ideas. There is an emotional need for rules, innovation may be resisted, and security is an important element in individual motivation. There is not available data for the long-term orientation dimension.

Context mappingSome facts about the culture and context of Pakistani villagers regarding their situation before and after the floods are stated here. These can be used as starting points for new design contexts, and this is summarised in the context image show in Figure 31. The main sources for this context mapping have been

interviews, shown in appendix 36, and ob-servational research from relief stories and im-ages from the IFRC 52 and UNHCR 53. It has a general focus, but also considers the relevant aspects for designing an object for protecting from the cold.

The typical housing type they owned was built of mud, consisting of around 2-3 rooms and a very modest kitchen area. The floor is also mud or sand, sometimes cover with straw mats. Brick houses were also owned by wealthier villagers. In many cases, they don’t own the land where they build, they usually work for the landlords and build it there. Floods are common in Pakistan, and the houses do not resist them.

•Mud houses are good natural insulators from cold in winter, and hot in summer. As an extra measure for cold protection, they use cow dung as fuel to heat the house. •They owned few pieces of furniture for the everyday living, like typical wooden frame beds, called manjaa, or the handcrafted quilts called Ralli, to protect themselves from cold or to sleep over in the manjaas. These possessions are commonly owned by every Pakistani villager, but after the series of disaster occurred, many victims lost them.•The most common livelihood was farming and agriculture, as they have lost the crop and livestock, they have lost their main income sources. Another way of making a livelihood is through cottage industries. After the floods, unemployment is becom-ing quite common among the families. •The dominant religion is Islam, with some extremist groups present.•Both men and women work in the fami-lies, but women take the responsibility of household production too. Child labour is increasing since the floods, since the par-ents are unable to find a job.•The cultural division among women and

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What they had before the

disaster

Farmers

Furniture(manjaa)

Mud houses

Cow dung as heater

Warm Ralli quilts

Pakistan

Importance of fabrics

Big families

Big communities

Unemployement

No water supply

Illiterates

No incomes

No electricity

Differentcultures

Muslims

Skilledcraftspeople

Ground as working and living space

57


What they had before the

disaster

Farmers

Furniture(manjaa)

Mud houses

Cow dung as heater

Warm Ralli quilts

Pakistan

Importance of fabrics

Big families

Big communities

Unemployement

No water supply

Illiterates

No incomes

No electricity

Differentcultures

Muslims

Skilledcraftspeople

Ground as working and living space

Figure 31. Context mapping of Pakistani villagers

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men is strong; they do not eat or sleep together.•Families are considerably large, with about 10 children plus the extended families. Traditional family values are highly respected and considered sacred.•There is a strong community bonding among Pakistanis.•Illiteracy is common, reaching rates of just 15% literate women in rural areas.•Their living conditions are very distant from the “common western” conditions, they base their daily life in the floor as working surface, and it is not common to find “west-ern” furniture.•Clothing and textiles fabrics also divert enormously from western culture. They give great importance to the fabrics and clothing as cultural emblems, with the textile indus-try being the largest in the country.•They are often basic-skilled craftspeople, such as carpentry, sewing, iron something, weaving fabrics in the traditional hand made styles, but they do not have enough support to make a living from these things alone. •Pakistan is a very large and multicultural country. There are several different ethnic groups with different traditions, varying by different regions.•They do not have savings or economic pat-rimony, 60.3% of Pakistanis live on less than $2 a day (2009 Human Development Report UNDP), this being even more extreme in the rural areas.

9.8. ConclusionThe main thing to deduce from this chapter is that the most exposed communities to fatalities are the ones that are already suffer-ing enormous social inequalities at the Base of the Pyramid. Their material losses cannot be compared with the losses produced in a developed country, as the post-disaster situ-ation in BoP countries often leaves victims in

need of urgent assistance in order to survive - even long after a disaster has occurred. With a disaster, many projects start to recover in the area, and these projects can be an opportunity to improve the pre-disaster living conditions. Textiles4Life can consider this as a chance to design holistic social solutions, besides just disaster relief items, thus resulting in a higher impact.

From the consequences and study case of Pa-kistan, we can observe several issues that can be an opportunity and/or criteria to consider for Textiles4Life solutions:

The lack of proper products, such as sanita-tion or insulation, which might induce serious health problems.

Victims become collectivist instead of indi-vidualist.

Victims lose their livelihood; they do not receive incomes anymore.

Victims lose their few material possessions, as well as their houses.

They have strong attachment to their own culture that is difficult to change.

Minorities and vulnerable demographic groups should receive special attention, in order to avoid inequalities.

One or several of these issues can be tackled in the three concepts development, where the main focus of one concept can be the creation of personal belongings, and for another concept, the preservation of their culture.

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Technical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical AnalysisTechnical Analysis

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C. Technical Analysis

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The technical research is not as extensive as the context research for several reasons. Firstly, KICI already has a vast knowledge of textiles, so it is less interesting than the context research. Secondly, several directions can still be taken. Depending on which direction TexLab decides to go, the product will have a different focus, and therefore, different technical properties.

The technical research is then focused on two main areas: first, information on the recycling options for the Textiles within the KICI expertise, including the already mentioned project, Tex-tiles 4 Textiles . And after, as it has been already decided to focus on winterized solutions, the technical properties of insulated fabrics and the main insulation principles are explored.

Insulation

Recycling textiles

Results

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Technical Analysis_� Recycling textiles

10. Recycling textiles

10101010101010101010 1010101010

Firstly, what is a textile? Textiles are the by-product of other applications that can be made into various objects, mainly cloth-ing, but there are many others. Textiles are universally made out of fibres of synthetic or natural origins and can be categorised by the raw materials of which they consist. For consumers, it is better known the reuse of textiles, main KICI’s business, than the recycling process; however, since long time ago, textiles have been recycled for low quality applications, like the cleaning industry. KICI is looking for new applications and techniques, whereby Textiles4Life can create new products, and which might entail the improvement or modification of the recycling technique.

10.1. IdentitexIdentitex is the main technology used in Textiles4Textiles to sort the used garments, depending on its main raw materials, and col-our. The technology used for the identifica-tion is Near Infrared. This allows a much more accurate post processing of the textiles for recycling than can be done by hand, as there was previously no way of knowing the exact composition of garments. It also speeds up the process, as compared to sorting by hand.

There are certain raw materials that have more value than others, mainly the pure ones. Pure cotton and wool can be reclaimed into new threads and fabrics, and along with pure synthetic materials, they can be used as raw material for new applications. Therefore,

the most interesting materials to find new ap-plications will be the blends. In appendix 37 a table shows the expected sorted fractions obtained from a manual sorting process in a used clothes sorting facility. These results are just an orientation, because here the fraction of “other” materials is larger than it will be when Identitex will be working, as many gar-ments did not have a composition label, and there was no way to know it exactly. 54

These are the fractions with more presence, although as it was said, the large amount of other materials is not representative:

•Other (28%)•Acrylic (18%) •Cotton (16,8%) •Wool Acrylic blends (10% total)•Cotton Acrylic blends (9,4% total)•Other blends (6,1%)

The total amount of a blend is most predomi-nant in the sample as previously stated, pure acrylic and cotton can be easily recycled, and the challenge here is the blends. Acrylic could be considered an option as well, as the price is not as high as cotton or wool, it can be turned back into yarn, and its presence in the sample was considerably high. It should be considered as well that the workwear, a big source for KICI of garments is not counted here, and the sorting facility does not sort cotton-polyester blends. However, most of the workwear is made with this kind of blends and it should be counted as an abun-dant material source.

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10.2. Recycled resultsKICI is researching already into many different recycling techniques, and they are obtaining different results, always with used garments, overstock from textile companies, and workwear uniforms as the material source. Pure synthetic materials are the easiest to recycle, and many of them can be melted and extruded into new raw material although, the focus now is to find applications for the textile blends. There can be three kind of recycling processes: chemical, thermal and/or mechanical. The material blends can also be processed chemically as pure ones, to obtain raw materials. The blends can be recycled mechanically, as it involves breaking down the garments into reclaimed short fibres,

which can be post processed into textile products. KICI already has expertise in these processes, which result in: loose fibres, non-woven textiles (needlepunching), and woven or knitted textiles. In Figure 32 some of these materials are shown and in appendix 37 the whole material portfolio is explained.

There can also be recycling processes that do not involve the textile reclamation into small fibres, but into pieces that can be processed in different ways. One of the most promising materials is the pressed textiles plates. The woven-on mats made out of mixed fibres, usually used as insulation, can be pressed with heat and the result is a cardboard like plate. Aside from the addition of other mate-rials such as plastic or resins to those plates,

Figure 32. Different recycled textiles results

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Technical Analysis_� Recycling textiles

or to garment pieces, these constituents can add new properties to the end product (Figure 32).

10.3. ConclusionThe natural fibre prices are rising, as cot-ton and wool, and lately many more blends can be found as the main composition of clothing. Pure materials are therefore more valuable and easier to recycle. Finding ap-plications for the textile blends is the current challenge for KICI, but thanks to the Identitex hardware, the blends can be precisely classi-fied and the results can have better accuracy. The most common and interesting blends for this project are:

•Mixed blends•Cotton-polyester•Cotton-acrylic•Wool-polyester•Wool-acrylic

Mixed blends without an accurate composi-tion will be the cheapest and simplest mate-rial source. However, if a certain percentage of a specific material is needed, like wool for example, it can always be obtained by mixing the constituents.

New recycling techniques are being re-searched, and some of them are already in use, like recycled woven fabrics, and recycled felts. Textiles4Life can take advantage of these techniques to create new and innova-tive products. However, as the price is a large constraint, the more processed the material becomes, the more expensive the product will be. Hence, these aspects should be considered in the material choice.

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From the analysis, we concluded that the climate focus for Textiles4Life is mild to cold climates with a temperature range from -3ºC to 18ºC. These temperatures lead to thermal discomfort and eventually to illness. For this reason, we need to understand what insula-tion is, why it is needed, and what materi-als and methods should be used to protect people in a cold climate.

10.4. Heat losses and thermal comfortThe final aim of the Textiles4Life products should reduce the heat losses, avoid illness due to climate, and to improve the thermal comfort of the victims. Body temperatures lower than 35ºC lead to hypothermia, 55 and there are different pathways for a human body to reach that temperature.

Thermal comfortThermal comfort is the thermal balance among the human body and the environ-ment. It has been long recognised that the sensation of hot or cold is not just dependent on air temperature alone. Thermal comfort is a state of mind depending on different factors, and we can influence some of these conditions with insulation. Factors for deter-mining thermal comfort include: 56

•Personal factors•Insulating clothing•Activity levels•General Factors

11. Insulation

11111111111111111111 1111111111

•Air temperature•Mean radiant temperature•Relative humidity (also perspiration)•Localised factors•Air movement•Floor surface temperatures

Heat transferHeat can be transferred with three main mechanisms:57

•Conduction - The transfer of energy be-tween objects that are in physical contact.•Convection - The transfer of energy be-tween an object and its environment, due to fluid motion.•Radiation - The transfer of energy to or from a body by means of the emission or absorption of electromagnetic radiation.

The main focus of this effort is insulation for sleep, as the lowest metabolic rate occurs then, and environmental temperatures are lower. These heat losses, together with the thermal comfort factors are translated into a shelter environment that is represented in Figure 33. Conduction losses occur from the different surfaces separating the person from the external temperature thus, good material insulators should be set to prevent these loses. Normally the heat loss through convec-tion or conduction is greater inside a tent, and radiation becomes more important in the outer layers, in this context. As air movement can induce a wind chill through convection, wind barriers must be used to prevent this. Most insulations trap air so that significant convective heat loss is eliminated, leaving

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Technical Analysis_� Insulation

only conduction and radiation transfer. Air speed and humidity are closely related, as the surfaces should be able to transpire and enable the humidity to escape, while at the same time avoiding drafts. The closer to the human body the surface is, the more evaporation should be allowed, because if a person’s body or clothing becomes wet, water chill becomes a problem. The relative humidity needed to have thermal comfort should be among 70% and 30%.58 There is not just one ideal operative temperature or air speed, because many factors influence the thermal comfort, and they are all cor-related. However, as a reference, the range of 20ºC to 22ºC operative temperature, and an airflow velocity of 0.15 m/s is recommended for sleeping environments during winter, 59.

Radiation

Conduction

ConvectionEvaporation

Conduction

Conduction

HumidityAir speed

Radiation

Exposed Body Areas

Thermal comfort factors:

Air temperatureMean radiant temperature

Relative humidityAir velocity

Metabolic rateClothing

HEAT LOSSES

However, when considering the extra cloth-ing that may be worn in winter climate, the room temperature should be between 16ºC ± 4ºC. 60

The heat loss due to conduction from the floor is also important, due to the low floor temperature and the body’s proximity to the floor while sleeping. Besides this, there are certain body areas more exposed to cold, mainly due to the traditional lack of clothing while sleeping, like hands, feet, head and neck. In addition, the inhalation of cold air should be prevented to protect the lungs from respiratory infections. 61

Current non-winterized tents just insulate by reducing the air movements through the walls. The winterized packs provide insulat-

Figure 33.Thermal comfort factors and main heat losses in a tent

11

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R=

1RSI

= 1m²K/W= 10TOG= 6,45CLO

Area Temperature differenceRequired power

ing clothing protection with blankets and garments, floor insulation with mats or mattresses, and increase the air temperature with stoves. The problems of these products are several. Clothing and blankets do not have high thermal resistance (explained in next chapter), are not efficient enough, and are needed in larger amounts. Mats are not a good enough insulator either, and mattresses are expensive and difficult to transport. Finally, stoves or heating units need energy to work, making them more expensive to use, and expose the environment to deforestation, as they may provoke an internal camp market for reselling combustible.

10.5. Thermal resistance in textilesThermal resistance is a heat property by which an object or material resists a heat flow. It is measured through the R-value, and it is given by the ratio of the temperature difference across an insulator and the heat transfer per unit area, Figure 34. Therefore, if we know how much power a person needs, the surface of the required insulator, the outer temperature and the desired inside temperature, we can calculate the R-value of the needed insulator. A sleeping person generates more than 40W/m2 based on skin surface metabolism. 62 And, an adult person has about 1,8 m2 surface area (method DuBois: A

d= m0, 425 · l0, 725) 63. So, we can take

72W as required power to maintain the heat

of one person.

Therefore, if the objective is to create a mat to insulate one person from a floor with a temperature of 0ºC to reach 20ºC and the area is 1,5 m2, the required R-value is 0,42 m2K/W. To calculate the R-value of a multi-layered structure, the R-values of the individual layers are added.

Clothes can also insulate from cold and prevent heat losses. The insulating capacity of textiles is measured through the unit TOG, which is 0.1m2K/W, or in CLO, another stand-ard unit used in the USA, equivalent to 1.55 TOG. The measurement of these parameters should be done in a textile laboratory, and there are several standard methods to obtain the, which requires a laboratory environment in order to obtain reliable results. Although some rough estimations can be done by carrying out simple tests which measure the temperature differences among surfaces when applying a power source to one of the surfaces.

10.6. ConclusionFirstly, we need insulation from cold, mainly for health reasons, as the decrease of body temperature can lead to hypothermia, or respiratory infections, and secondly, because thermal discomfort can create uncomfort-able living conditions and lead to stress. Our sensation of cold or warm is defined by the thermal comfort, which is affected by several factors and mechanisms which create heat loss. We can modify some of these factors and prevent heat loss. The chosen context is for this section is the sleep period, because then the metabolic rate is lower, and the body’s produces less heat. The insulation capacity of the textiles is given by the thermal resistance (R-value), which is translated into the CLO or TOG measurement unit. With the required temperature, surface, and amount Figure 34. Calculation of R-value

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Technical Analysis_� Insulation

of people using a product, we can easily calculate the required thermal resistance of an insulation material.

In the context of a shelter while sleeping, we can perform in different ways to prevent heat losses:

•Reducing drifts and ramps by making outer layers wind-proof.•Prevent conductive heat losses through surfaces with insulation materials (high R-value)•Cover exposed body areas to prevent convective heat losses.•Increase room temperature through radia-tion.•Improve thermal resistance of clothing.•Keep humidity levels in normal range.•Prevent perspiration with breathable materials.•Creating layers with trapped air to elimi-nate convective heat losses.

Analysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis ConclusionsAnalysis Conclusions

71

D. Analysis Conclusions

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Textiles4Life

The analysis has been focused on three parts, firstly, an analysis of the basis and objectives of the project. The second part focused on context research and is also the most extensive section, as it was an unknown subject area for TexLab. The last part of the analysis was the technical research, which was divided in two parts: recycled textiles and insulation.

Project basis

Context

Ana

lysi

s

Technical research

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Analysis Conclusions_� Project basis conclusion

12. Project basis conclusion

12121212121212121212 1212121212

The project analysis concludes by giving a direction to the study. Textiles4Life is a new venture for TexLab and hence, it is interest-ing to show the potential of the project with different design assignments. The interests of the main stakeholders have been researched. They each have different priorities that have affected the focus of the design assignments. Therefore, the three stakeholders have been considered as three different assignments, for

Project Basis - Direction

Showing different strategies by using three

different briefings based on the

main stakeholders.

T4L

three different design projects. Following this method has exposed a variety of choices, and TexLab will be able to see and select between the solutions that can be implemented.The three stakeholders are TexLab, Red Cross due to the existing relation with TexLab and the involvement in this project, and Pakistani villagers, who were subject to recent catas-trophes where winterisation was needed.

Figure 35. Analysis conclusions from the project basis

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Textiles4Life

Final usersFamilies with no

means of support

Long periods

Emergency shelters

Culture shock

Base of the Pyramid

Area impoverishment

Time pressure

Coordination of activities

Lack of winterised products

Strict regulations

Product flexibility

> $2.50/dayLocal skills

13. Context conclusion

13131313131313131313 1313131313

Context analysis -Main findingsScenario

Relief issues

Winter climates

Asia

Large-scale

Post-disaster stage

Logistics

Kits of material assistance in emergency stage

Funding

Time pressure

Human-made and natural disasters

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Analysis Conclusions_� Context conclusion

Final usersFamilies with no

means of support

Long periods

Emergency shelters

Culture shock

Base of the Pyramid

Area impoverishment

Time pressure


Lack of winterised products

Strict regulations

Product flexibility

> $2.50/dayLocal skills

The outcomes of the context research can be divided in three areas: disaster scenarios, final users, and disaster relief issues. The scenario shows the chosen disaster focus, the final us-ers’ area exposes the (post-disaster) situation of the victims, and the relief issues area ex-plains the main constraints that the agencies find in the relief activities. All of these findings are used as basis for the requirements list

(chapter 16), and for the design briefs for each concept (chapter 17.1, 18.1 and 19.1).

Figure 36.Analysis conclusions from the context

13

Context analysis -Main findingsScenario

Relief issues

Winter climates

Asia

Large-scale

Post-disaster stage

Logistics

Kits of material assistance in emergency stage

Funding

Time pressure


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13.1. ScenarioWinter climates

Regions with more than four months with average temperatures in between -3ºC and 18ºC (chapter 5.3)


Any kind of disaster that leaves people in need of material assistance. (Chapter 5.1)

Large scale

Consider disasters where more than 1.000 homeless victims by 100.000 inhabitants (chapter 5.2 and appendix 5)

Post-disaster stage

The created solutions will be used in response and recovery stages, not mitigation or prepar-edness.

Asia

The statistics show that Asia is a potential focus area with high disaster occurrence and winter climates. (Chapter 5.3)

13.2. Final UsersBase of the Pyramid

The countries or regions from the Base of the Pyramid are the ones that suffer longer when a disaster happens. The recovery of the victims and the area is harder than for developed countries. (Chapter 9.1)

Families with no means of support

Many victims lose everything in the disaster and they require assistance in many ways and for very long periods, such as food and mate-rial assistance. (Chapter 9.3)

Emergency shelters

The victims live in degrading conditions for many months, without a proper shelter and

facilities, causing health problems. (Chapter 9.2)

Local skills

The victims normally have some basic skills that can be useful for some recovery works, like sewing, carpentry, or welding. (Chapter 9.7)

Long periods

The completely recovery can take years. The victims require assistance for many months before they can live by their own means, and sometimes, it never happens. (Chapter 5.4 and 9.1)

Culture shock

Some of the implemented solutions fail because they do not consider the cultural fac-tors (Chapter 7.7 and 9.6)

Area impoverishment

The disaster-affected regions suffer an eco-nomical recession, and all the implemented solutions should avoid this, for example, by encouraging the local market. (Chapter 9.4)

13.3. Relief issuesKits of material assistance in emergency stage

The use of prepackaged kits saves time in emergency stages, and offers more effi-cient solutions. Regarding winterisation, the agencies can choose what to include in the winterisation kits depending the requirements of the situation. (Chapter 8.3 and 8.4)

Logistics

The logistics in disaster relief present one of the biggest challenges. Extra costs and extra time should be avoided, by choosing space efficient solutions, and by knowing in ad-vance what is needed and where it is needed. (Chapter 7.5)

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Analysis Conclusions_� Context conclusion

Funding

In large-scale disasters in BoP countries, the relief agencies should make appeals for funding to cover all the relief expenses. These appeals are not always fulfilled, and some solutions cannot be implemented due to the lack of resources. Every expense should be carefully studied to be able to cover all the essential needs. (Chapter 7.4)

Time pressure

The implementation time of the solutions is a constraint as well. Many projects cannot be developed because the proposed solutions will take too much time, and the victims need them immediately. (Chapters 7.5 and 7.6)


In some disasters, many people and agencies volunteer and want to help, but sometimes they can entail extra expenses and double work. Therefore, the potential solutions should count with the approval of the coordi-nating agencies, like the Red Cross. (Chapter 6.3)

Product flexibility

The products that can be used for several purposes are more valuable in disaster relief. They should not have many restrictions and fixed parameters, as to allow for the creation of inventive solutions.

Strict regulations

The main relief agencies have catalogues with the standard products that can be used for disaster relief. New or different products are not allowed if they are not officially approved by these agencies. To get approval, the prod-uct should prove its efficiency with field tests, and the endorsement of different depart-ments within the agency, making the process slow and bureaucratic. (Chapter 8.4)

Lack of winterisation products

Winter climates in disaster areas are occur-ring more often recently, and there is still not much specialised equipment for these events, presenting an opportunity for Textiles 4 Life.

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14. Technical research conclusion

14141414141414141414 1414141414

The technical research was divided in two parts, the first one regarding textiles, and the second one insulation. The main outcome is that the best choice of materials is textile blends, because they are more abundant and cheap. The recycling process should avoid extra manufacturing steps to keep a low final price. The most promising technique seems to be the pressing plate method using blends, due to its simplicity.

In the insulation research, the outcomes are the possible ways of avoiding heat losses. These can be summarised as follows:

Low air speed

By reducing the air speed with barriers.

Thermal resistance materials

By using high thermal resistance textiles.

Trapped air as insulation

By using insulation materials that contain trapped air.

Avoid high humidity

By using materials that allow the human body to perspire.

Heat loss by conduction

By using barriers to avoid direct heat loss by conduction, especially in the floor.

Cover exposed areas

By covering the areas that are more exposed to cold, and that might cause diseases.

Rise temperature through radiation

By using stoves or other devices that irradiate heat.

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Analysis Conclusions_� Technical research conclusion

Technical analysis - Main findings

Textiles

Insulation

Textile blends Low material price

Avoid recycling steps

Pressing plates

Different mechanism to avoid heat losses.

Avoid high humidity

Rise temperature through radiation

Low air speed Trapped air as insulation

Thermal resistance materials

Cover exposed

areas


Figure 37.Analysis conclusions from the technical research

14

IdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeationIdeation

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E. Ideation

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In this chapter, the ideation of the three different directions is developed, following a parallel method using the same process for the three concepts. A colour code is followed: green for the TexLab concept, red for the Red Cross concept, and blue for the victims. The content is:

•Three design opportunities for Textiles4Life are obtained. Each of them is connected to one of the main stakeholders. •The analysis is the base for the general requirements that will be used as general guide for this project and also for future projects.•A design brief for every direction is created which describe the main interest of each stakeholder. For this reason, three different projects are created, although they still consider the rest of the stakeholders, while they differ in their main focus. With this approach three opportunities are exposed to TexLab, so they are aware of the many different directions they can choose. •A starting point is created from that design brief, from the design opportunities, and choosing some of the main analysis observations. A different design statement for each concept is created.•The main criteria points that need be fulfilled by every concept are established. •Different ideas are developed, and evaluated. •One concept is chosen depending on the fulfilment level of the design brief and criteria. The concept is detailed and evaluated according to the criteria. •A general evaluation for the three of them is conducted to see their current potential and the detailing level that they need.

General requirements

Sub-criteria

Idea generation

Concepts choice

Starting points

Evaluation and next steps

Design opportunities

Design briefs

83

Ideation_� Design opportunities

15. Design opportunities

15151515151515151515 1515151515

Once the context is researched and the main objectives of Textiles 4 Life are clear, differ-ent design directions can be taken. Three different directions are exposed, and each of them is linked to the three main stakehold-ers. These directions are obtained by seeing the gaps in the context, and the possible opportunities.

RED CROSS

Transitional products for winterisation

VICTIMSSocial projects

TEXL

AB

Emer

genc

y w

inte

r pro

duct

s

The scenario, exposed in the context conclu-sion, is common to each.

15.1. Emergency winter products - TexLabThe development of emergency personal items could be the fastest and simplest way for Textiles 4 Life to have a market opportu-

Figure 38.Design opportunities

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Textiles4Life

nity. One opportunity is to create efficient but still low-grade items, following the agencies requirements, and competing directly with the current products by offering new func-tionality, better performance or better price.

15.3. Social projects for inclusion - VictimsThe last approach deviates a bit from the pro-vision of winterized products, but it tries to go more into the root of the problem, mainly in regards the recovery stage. It has been observed that months after a disaster, victims are still in need of material support because they are unable to live by their own means. Therefore, Textiles 4 Life could create solu-tions that will promote the victims recovery by giving them the means to do it, and thus positively affecting the economic recovery of an area. Furthermore, the common solutions that the agencies provide tend to fail due to cultural differences, normally because the vic-tims are not involved in the decision-making. This can be solved if we let victims decide what to do and how to do it. The victims in the concept development will be represented as the Pakistani villagers victims of floods in 2010.

15.2. Transitional products for winterisation - Red CrossTransitional strategies are used lately in post disaster areas with success. Products that can be delivered in the late emergency stage, but that can be used in the long term to create a transitional house until a permanent solution is achieved. The creation of products following this approach is an opportunity for Textiles 4 Life. It is a practical approach for the Red Cross to improve the assistance efficiency.

The victims want to choose the products and solutions that the agencies provide. As in the recov-ery stage, what they really need is a way to obtain incomes, so they will no longer require assistance.

Texlab can compete with current suppliers of emergency items by offering a good price and adding extra functionality to the standard products.

The Red Cross needs more durable products that work beyond the emergency response stage to cre-ate transitional solutions.

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Ideation_� General requirements

16. General requirements

16161616161616161616 1616161616

From the context analysis (chapter 7), it can be observed that there are many parameters affecting a relief product, and there are dif-ferent directions to choose from, as shown in the previous chapter (15). A general require-ments list is created from all those findings and observations obtained from the analysis. The list is intended to cover the main aspects to be considered, and to support the chosen

direction. As was explained in the project description (Chapter 1), Textiles 4 Life intends to continue with further design assignments, and may launch a design competition for students. These requirements can be used for the formulation of that contest, and as a reference for future projects.

The requirements are clustered in six main

Functionallity Operational Usability

Production and transportation

Sustainability Strategical

WinterisationEmergency or transitionalSecondary function

Reliable/RobustDurableInsulatedBreathableMoisture resistant

Avoid local impactEnd of lifeRecycled

VersatileOpen to partnershipsAppealingOutstanded sustainabilityCompetitiveness

Cultural appropiatenessFlexibleHygieneUpgradablePersonal spaceAccessibleSafeQuick and easy

Unit costWeightTransport and packagingShort supply lead-timePromote local productionOpen hardware

Figure 39. Requirements categories

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Textiles4Life

categories (Figure 39) and within each cat-egory the main requirements are explained. There is no prioritization yet, as they will be prioritized according each direction in the following chapters.

FunctionalityWinterisationProducts designed to insulate in mid-cold climates (-3ºC to 18ºC). (Chapter 5.3)

Emergency or transitionalDifferent approaches. Survival gear to be delivered in the first days of a disaster, or transitional products for the period in be-tween emergency and permanent solutions. (Chapter 6.1)

Secondary functionsAdding extra functions will be valuable, as transportation of goods, room dividers, floor-ing, bedding... (Chapter 7.6)

OperationalReliable/Robust (Chapter 7.5 and 7.6)No parts should be integrated that can be easily broken. Rough situations should be taken into account.The product should not be damaged while transportingMaterial temperature resistant from -20º to 80º C (IFRC requirements).43

Durable (Chapter 7.5 and 7.6)Provide a long span life (depending of the kind of product).Non-degradable in storage (IFRC require-ments). 43

Water, rot, soil and fauna resistant.

Insulation and breathability (Chapter 11)The average mean internal target tem-perature for the internal shelter environment should be 16ºC ± 4ºC, ideally reaching 20ºC with all the winterized measures. Low air permeability to prevent draughts, but ensuring body perspiration. Maximum air velocity inside a shelter of 0,15m/s.

Minimum Thermal resistance comes from this formula R = A ΔT / P where A will be the material surface, ΔT is the temperature differ-ence; and P is the required power, consider-ing 72W per adult person. See chapter 4.2.

Moisture (Chapter 11)Keep air humidity among 30% and 70% inside the shelter.Water penetration resistant.

UsabilityCultural appropriateness (Chapter 7.7)Familiar or neutral design, fitting in their culture. The product could enable the expression of cultural identity and diversity.

Flexible (Chapter 7.6)

The product should leave options open for inventive solutions.Different choices, or adaptable to everyone’s needs.

Hygiene (Chapter 8)Easy to clean with soap and water. (IFRC requirements) 02

UpgradableUpgradable or durable solutions tending to transitional connotations are better accepted.

SpaceConsider a space minimum shelter space of 12m2 (PAK winterisation guidelines) 64, although is recommended 3,5m2 per person (Sphere project). 65 Consider a space per person to sleep of 200x75cm (1.5m2) Extracted from interview with Corine Treherne (IFRC) see appendix 10.Consider the need of natural light without loosing insulation properties.

AccessibleConsider the accessibility for disabled people, children and elderly people.(IFRC requirements) 43

SafeSafe to use and operate.Ability for fast escaping in emergency situa-

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Ideation_� General requirements

tions (no zippers).Non ignition. Flash point above 200ºC. (IFRC tarpaulins requirements) 66

Quick and easyAvoid the need of skilled labour.Non or minimum explanation for assembly.Non or minimum maintenance.(Chapter 7.6)

Production and transportCost (Chapter 7.4 and 8.3)Keep a low unit cost. Maximum price of 40€ for winterisation kits. Higher costs can be justified by a lower running cost, shorter lead-time to delivery and material use in later assistance phases.

WeightIt should be possible to transport with few (2-3) people in case of hard-shell shelter and individually in case of inner solutions, and in unfavourable situations (maximum for shelter: 100kg; for 5 people winterisation kits: 30kg) (IFRC requirements) 43

Transport and packaging (Chapter 7.5)Ergonomic volume and measures to be trans-ported by hand by few people.Adopted solutions are compressed bales to save space.Reusable packaging for other purposes are also a good space-saving solution.

Short supply lead-time (Chapter 7.5)Standard components and manufacturing process for fast production and short supply lead-time.

Promote local production (Chapter 9.4)By purchasing local products the local economy is supported.

Participatory design - tools rather than prod-ucts.

“Open hardware”Keep it open and easily reproducible for dif-ferent manufacturers across the world.Generic design specifications ensure that the product can be manufactured in numerous

countries by suppliers with standard technical know-how and standard tent-industry equip-ment (IFCR catalogue). 43

SustainabilityAvoid local impact (Chapter 7.8)The choice of materials should not increase the pressure on natural resources, like wood.

End of life (Chapter 7.8)No impact on local environment.

Recycled (Chapter 10)Using recycled textiles as main material

StrategicVersatile design (Chapter 7.7)Keep the product adaptable or valid for dif-ferent targets, scenarios, etc. (Chapter 2.4)Neutral design, adaptive to different cultures.

Opportunity (for KICI) for new partner-ships and collaborations (Chapter 2.4)Being tempting for them to being sustainable while obtaining some benefit. (Like funds, recognition...)

Appealing (Chapter 2.4)Gain public opinion for donations or prod-ucts’ purchase.

Outstanding sustainability and recycla-bility (Chapter 2.4)Product that puts forward its sustainable qualities to gain public opinion and media attention.

Competitiveness (Chapter 8.5)Offer better performance than the current products.

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17. Concept for TexLab

17171717171717171717 1717171717

Following the approach explained in the introduction of this section (E), the concept based on TexLab is created.

17.1. Design BriefAccording to the main desires of TexLab, a design brief is created showing the main desired characteristics to guide the concept ideation (Figure 40).

Low investment, Easy and fast manufac-turing and Textiles blends.

This concept should be a first easy step in Textiles4Life, feasible in a short term without need of external sponsoring. It must be economically viable from the beginning, so the manufacturing should not create future investment. Using textiles blends, or unsorted textiles, the price can be lower than using pure textiles.

Outstanding recyclability, Social aware-ness and Exposure/publicity

One of the main objectives from TexLab is to get more clothing donations. If the product is exposed and gains popularity in Nether-lands by showing potential donors how their clothes can be turned into relief items, the donations will increase.

Simple but effective, and Big target group

The products should be attractive for the relief organisations, by adding new function-ality and solving problems in simple ways,

they can be more interested. Moreover, the bigger the target group is, the more interest the agencies would have.

17.2. Design statementA design statement is created to “ideate” the concepts. The basis of this design statement are three points, the design opportunity stated in chapter 4: emergency items, the de-sired characteristics pointed out in the design brief, and some of the main context findings are chosen from the main context conclu-sions (Figure 41).

The context findings are chosen because this particular concept might be a good opportu-nity to solve them:

Big-scale natural disaster

When a major natural disaster happens in a winter climate, it usually leaves a great num-ber of victims without housing. The necessity of material assistance arises; this could be medicines, food, but also items like winter clothes or blankets (Figure 42). The provision of these items should be regulated by the NGOs to avoid overstock of certain products and the collapse of ports and airports.

Funding problems

As it was explained in the context research (chapter 7.4), the funding appeals that the NGOs make to cover the relief expenses are not always covered. The agencies might find themselves without enough means to provide the required help. If the offered product pro-

89

Ideation_� Concept for TexLab

Easy and fast manufacturing

Attractive and iconic

Textiles blends

Social awareness

Exposure/publicity

Outstanded reciclability

Simple but effective

Big target group

Low investment

vides also economical support in some way, it will be a great added value.

Logistics and coordination

The developed products should consider the extra expenses that they might carry, like the transportation and distribution. Everything should be packed with a relief agency be-forehand. Sometimes the material donations

cause more problems than they solve.

Cover exposed body areas

A gap seen in the insulation research is the lack of protection for some body areas. While sleeping, the head and chest are normally ex-posed and not covered by the blankets, and the breathing of cold air can cause respiratory diseases. A historical solution to this is that

Figure 40.Design brief for TexLab Design statement

17

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3. Context findings DESIGN STATEMENT

Design a garment to protect the head and chest from cold, to be used also while sleep-ing. It will be donated to the relief agencies and it will be sold in

western countries with the formula: buy one,

give one to the victims.

Large-scale

Cover exposed

areas

Logistics

Funding

Emergency winter products

1. Direction 2. Design brief 3. Context findings

sleeping caps were used to protect heat loss from the head, but this is not common nowa-days. The development of a product that can be used to protect these areas during daytime and sleeping is an opportunity for TexLab..

17.3. CriteriaSome extra criteria have been created that the product should fulfil. It follows the MoSCoW method, where Must criteria means that is not valid if it is not fulfilled, Should criteria is a high priority but not essential, Could criteria is a desirable requirement, and Won’t criteria are discarded requirements (although this last kind is not applicable here). 68 The concept will be evaluated following these criteria:

“Material donations were useful in the very first days, but they continued to arrive for months afterwards. Containers arrived at the port and airport, but with no money for distribution costs. Sometimes it costs us more money to process and distribute times like used clothes than to buy new ones. And so many of the things were not really useful. Should we send out a circular to say stop sending goods? It seems immoral when people want to help.” 67

91



Design a garment to protect the head and chest from cold, to be used also while sleep-ing. It will be donated to the relief agencies and it will be sold in

western countries with the formula: buy one,

give one to the victims.

Large-scale

Cover exposed

areas

Logistics

Funding

Figure 41. Design statement creation for TexLab

1. It MUST be produced of existing recycling manufacturing techniques.

To avoid extra investments, the production should be kept simple and fast. That way they can be manufactured in short period to fulfil the demand.

2. It MUST be attractive for the Western market.

It is desirable that the product is a popular product to gain more market share. A current fashion trend could be the way to get there.

3. It SHOULD be suitable to wear while sleeping.

It cannot be tight on the neck as to avoid asphyxiation while sleeping and it should be also comfortable.

4. It COULD be a neutral design.

To avoid cultural shock, the product should not be too flamboyant, and the use of too much colour should be avoided. This require-ment might be contradictory with the previ-ous one, although different versions of the product can be considered, while also sharing the main characteristics.

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Figure 42. Victims of Turkey earthquake in 2011

17.4. Fists ideasThe ideation created some ideas on the shape, having in mind that it should be a garment to cover head and neck, and easily manufactured, therefore, the firsts drawings are different typologies of scarves, caps or balaclavas.

Next the material has to be chosen, with the options being: recycled woven fabrics (6), or knit-ted with recycled threats (7).

The several ideas are evaluated with the criteria using a Harris profile:

Criteria1 2 3 4 5 6.Woven 7.Knitted

-2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2

1. Existing techniques

NA NA NA NA NA

2. Attractive

3. Suitable to sleep

4. Neutral

TOTAL 3 -1 5 4 -3 5 4

Table 2. TexLab ideas Harris profile

93


1 2 3

4

56

materials

shapes

7

Figure 43. First ideas in shape and material choices

The chosen shape is a scarf with a hood, because it is attractive, comfortable and safe to sleep in, as it is not tight, and it can be wrapped around the neck. It offers to the relief agencies a piece of clothing specially designed to cover head and chest, and that can be used during daytime, and also while sleeping.

The material choice is woven because it is easier to manufacture and more neutral and familiar, as the relief blankets are being manufactured in the same way.

17.5. Concept choiceThe product is called Mantoo. It has the shape of a scarf with a hood sewed into it

(Figure 44). It can be wrapped around the neck, and it covers mouth and nose if neces-sary to have a bigger protection against cold. It is not tight on the head or neck making it comfortable to use while sleeping. The pattern is based on four pieces that are sewn together with three seams, although some more patterns can be tried to optimise the material and process. The chosen recycling technique is the same that is used for the relief blankets, woven reclaimed fibres, with a minimum 50% of wool fibres (as the IFRC requires for the blankets). By choosing the same material, the acceptance of the product by the agencies will be more probable, and the manufacturing will be easier.

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To ensure the success in the Western market, two trends are joined. Firstly, this is not a new design; there are already many similar products in the market, and they are becom-ing popular as can be seen in Figure 45. Furthermore, aside from being a familiar material for disaster relief, using blankets as fabric for clothing is also a recent popular trend in fashion.

In the proposed model (Figure 44) some colour lines are suggested. Several versions can be made and tested both with agencies and potential buyers to see which one is the most accepted.

Mantoo is sold with the formula: One for one. The system would work following this

steps (Figure 46):

1. There is a big disaster in a cold area and Mantoo is sent in the following days to several global retailers like malls or big supermarkets. A selling point is displayed with Mantoos, explaining the story of the product and the charity purpose.2. Costumers buy one Mantoo, but they are actually paying for two Mantoos. The second Mantoo is donated to the partnered NGO and will be delivered to the victims who need it. All the cost will be covered in the purchasing price.3. For every purchased Mantoo there is another Mantoo with the same tracking number. The packed Mantoo bales that are delivered in the disaster are labelled with

Figure 44.Mantoo concept drawings

95


Hooded scarf Blanket fabrics

the tracking numbers, and when they arrive at the destination, relief workers will report them to a web platform. The costumers will be able to check on the web when it has been delivered and to where, although this could vary depending on if sufficient com-munications are possible.

17.6. EvaluationThe concept fulfils the imposed criteria, al-though some assumptions should be checked in the concept development:


The chosen is technique is a widespread technique. It is used already for relief blan-kets, and also removal blankets. It should be checked how long it takes to be produced and how much it costs.

2. It MUST be attractive for the western market.

The product combines two fashion trends. Different models with different colours and slight shape differences should be proto-typed. A user test will confirm that costumers

will buy it.


It is not tight in the neck or in the head, making it adaptable and more comfortable. Nonetheless, a misuse of the product could entail dangers, if it is wrapped too tight around the neck. Hence some tests will need to be performed with prototypes.


Depending on the chosen final design, mainly regarding the colours, it could not be ac-cepted in some cultures. This could arise simi-larly, if the shape is not familiar. This problem should be discussed with relief agencies and be subject to experiments.

Figure 45. Western fashion trends

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Tracking number

0987654321

Mantoo0987654321

1.

2.

3.

Figure 46. Mantoo steps

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Ideation_� Concept for Red Cross

18. Concept for Red Cross

18181818181818181818 1818181818

Figure 47. Cardboard waste used as shelter walls in Haiti 2010 earthquake aftermath. (Source: Vera

Sytch)

Following the approach explained in the introduction of this section (E), the concept based on Red Cross is created.

18.1. Design BriefFollowing the same process as before, a design brief is created, explaining the desired characteristics.

Multipurpose, Modular, Neutral and Versatile, adaptive

These characteristics are desired because the Red Cross wants products that can be used in multiple scenarios, with little or no modifica-tion.

Low cost and “Free Hardware”, standard

The price and the production time are essen-tial aspects for the Red Cross.

Secure, self explanatory and low main-tenance

Once the products are delivered, the Red Cross would prefer little or no support from coworkers, so they can attend other issues.

18.2. Design statementLike in the previous concept, the design statement for this concept is based on the direction explained in the Design Opportuni-ties chapter, together with the design brief, and the context findings. (Figure 47)

The context findings are chosen because this particular concept might be a good opportu-

nity to solve them:

Flexibility

One of the most successful items in the field is the plastic tarpaulin. This is because they are cheap and versatile; they can be used for many different purposes, as the needs in every situation are different. The focus in this concept is flooring, but could be used in any kind of ground or shelter. The floor should al-low for different improvised uses, as is already done with the cardboard in Figure 47.

Logistics and prepackaged solutions

Another conclusion from the analysis was that the inefficient use of time and space might carry unnecessary logistic costs. There-fore kits with prepackaged items are more ef-

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Low cost

Low maintenance

Secure

Versatile, adaptive

Neutral, multicultural

Multipurpose

Modular

“Free hardware” standard

Self explanatory

Figure 48. Design brief for Red Cross

ficient when they are delivered. Many of the items come in cardboard boxes and plastic bales that eventually end up as waste or used as improvised shelter (Figure 47). Some new initiatives provide good quality boxes that can be used for other purposes. Consequently, a desired feature is that the product is its own container as well, and it could be used as container for other items.


Regarding winterized products, the lack of good flooring is one of the lacking areas pointed out by the agencies, (appendix 36). It is also one of the main sources of heat loss, mainly when sleeping. Textiles can also provide a nice and warm surface for this purpose.

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1. D

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2. D

esig

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rief

DES

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Design a modular insulated floor to avoid heat loss while sleeping, laying or sitting on the shelter floor using

textile pressing plates. The floor should be used as well as container or box to transport more materials to the area.

3. C

onte

xt

findings

Product flexibility

Prepacked solutions


Shelters

Transitional products for winterisation

Figure 49. Design statement creation for TexLab

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Foldable

Loose tiles

Figure 50.Floor/Box options

Shelters

In winter climates, victims should have a proper shelter to survive. The ideal situation will be to build a high quality shelter with procured local materials. But this is time-consuming, expensive, and cannot be done when harsh winter conditions approach and a solution needs to be implemented in a short time. The provision of transitional prod-ucts or materials for fast deployment is thus the best strategy.

18.3. CriteriaThe chosen product to design is a box that is turned into flooring. Some criteria are created using the same method as in the previous concept (MoSCoW).

1. It MUST be easily manufactured and with minimum cost.

It is not possible to make a precise estima-tion of the final cost because the material is still in research and development. Nonethe-less, regarding its shape, the manufacturing process should be kept minimised, as well as the production of extra pieces, because of

the fact that it will increase the final unit price as well as the time to produce it.

2. It SHOULD be an even insulation.

The floor is to insulate from the floor, there-fore the heat loss will be produced through convention. Thinner or uneven parts should be avoided, so the mass and the air are distributed equally, and the entire surface has the same insulation power.

3. It SHOULD ensure the stability of the box.

It will be used as container for shipping items, going through many different vehicles and hands. It should ensure at least the same stability that cardboard boxes have.

4. It COULD use standard processes and pieces or slightly modified standard pieces.

The agencies demand that the products can be manufactured in different places. The use of standard pieces and process will ensure this and the opportunity to have lower prices.

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1.Hinge that clips the tiles

3.Built on the tile

2.Two axes connectors

4.Corner pieces + floor anchores

5.Ropes

Figure 51. Ideation for floor/box concept

18.4. Fists ideasAs was mentioned before, the focus now is how to make a floor that is convertible into different structural surfaces. Two different options arose (Figure 50). The first one is to make it like a traditional foldable box, that unfolded is a surface for one person. The second one is that joining six tiles that can be dismantled and placed as floor creates the box. The chosen option is the second one, loose tiles, because of two reasons: The folding of the box will not have the same insulation as the rest of the box, as they will be thinner, and Secondly, the corners and edges can be easily damaged in transporta-tion, needing extra protection. The loose tiles allow use in a range of dimensions and

configurations.

By choosing this system, and extra criteria is included regarding the connections to the ground:

5. It SHOULD have a strength and safe con-nection to the ground

Several typologies of connections are ideated (Figure 51):

1. Hinge that clips the tiles: This consists on a plastic hinge with a 90ºC and 180ºC fixed position.2. Two axes connector: This solution is similar to the previous one, but instead of rotating, it is a piece with four clips to place the tiles.3. Built on the tile: Another suggested pos-sibility is that the tiles include a connection

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Criteria

1. Hinge that clips the tiles

2. Two axes connector

3. Built on the tile

4. Corner pieces and floor an-chors

5. Ropes

-2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 21. Manufacturing

minimum costs

2. Even insulation

3. Box stability

4. Standard

5. Ground con-nection

TOTAL -3 2 -1 3 0

Table 3.Red Cross ideas Harris profile

system joint to the tile.4. Corner pieces and floor anchors: This consists on, firstly a corner to put the tiles together to make the box, and secondly, profiles to anchor the floors to the ground that might be procured locally.5. Ropes: This will be the simplest system, the tiles are sewn together with ropes.

The concept 4 is chosen mainly because the amount of extra manufactured pieces is reduced, by using just 8 corners instead of 12 edges, and the anchor system to the ground can be more stable and stronger than the other ones, giving better insulation, as there are no middle pieces between the tiles.

18.5. Concept choiceThe chosen concept is called TileTex. One of the main components is an injected plastic corner where the tiles are fitted to shape a box, and can be joined together with pack-ing strips. Those corners can be reused for more boxes. There are similar products in the market to the yellow piece shown in the Figure 52, they are traditionally used to pile

pallets. To fixate the tiles to the floor, a metal profile can be anchored to the ground, and the tiles will be nailed to it. There are also similar products to join wooden plates avail-able on the market, or which can be easily produced in a local metal workshop. The connections will be a good way of putting all the tiles together making an even insulated surface. The possible splits between the tiles will not present a problem if they are small enough, as there are no drafts coming from the floor, and there will no be lower surfaces to transmit the heat by convection. The box can be used to deliver the winterisation kits whenever they are needed, as the agencies do currently. It might include items such as winter clothing, blankets, tools for the floor installation, instructions, sleeping mats, etc. The tiles will have a surface of 50 x 50 cm, which is manageable to carry, and six tiles will provide a surface of 1,50 m2 - enough for one person. Therefore, six more tiles can be piled inside the box, and a box can be a kit for two adults.

The development of the tiles is also part of the concept. It is desirable that the tiles can

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Reusable injected plastic corners where the tiles are fittedPacking strips to ensure stability

Metal profile that can be provided locally to fix the tiles to the floor

Figure 52. Detailing of corners and metal profile

be cut to fit different spaces. The chosen material is the pressing plates, previously explained in chapter 10, and in appendix 38. The material development is still in research for other applications. For this concept some material test should be carried on, and guide-lines of the best fibres combination, pressing time, and applied heat will be given for future research. From the material research, the blends are the most attractive approach, but we must specify what kind of blends. In a first approximation, acrylic and wool blends are very abundant in textile waste (appendix 12), and they are a good combination. Wool is a good insulator, 69 and the acrylic can be used as binder, as it will not adsorb water. A pos-sible configuration will be to use sandwich panels with acrylic outer layers to protect

from rotting, with wool blends as filling, leav-ing some trapped air as insulation.

The floor design should also fulfil some tech-nical requirements imposed by the Red Cross and the environmental conditions:

•Insulate from a floor at a temperature of -3ºC to 18ºC. •Grey or dark brown colour and a pleasant surface to touch.•Non-flammable (Flash point above 200ºC)•Easily cleanable.•Minimum explanation for assembly, or be-ing provided graphically.•Absorb minimum water.

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18.6. EvaluationThe concept fulfils the imposed criteria, al-though some assumptions should be checked in the concept development:

1. It MUST be easily manufactured and with minimum costs.

The tiles do not need extra processes than just creating the material, which should be checked later. The rest of the pieces should be conceived to be purchased or manufac-tured locally.


The floor will be divided by minimum splits, which will be unnoticeable, as the surface will be at the same height and same material distribution.


By reinforcing the corner of the box, the weakest part of a box, the stability is improved. This should be checked with prototypes.

4. It COULD use standard process and pieces or slightly modified standard pieces.

The main pieces apart from the tiles are conceived by thinking about existing pieces or simple manufacturing. This should be checked by availability on the market, or the possible modifications that could to be done.

5. It SHOULD have a strong and safe con-nection to the ground.

The profile to fixate the tiles can be screwed to the ground with standard anchors, and the tiles will be nailed to the profile. It should be checked that this is a good method.

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Ideation_� Concept for Pakistani villagers

19. Concept for Pakistani villagers

19191919191919191919 1919191919

Following the approach explained in the introduction of this section (E), the concept based on Pakistani villagers has been created.

19.1. Design BriefIn this design brief, the main characteristics that would benefit the victims are exposed. They are base on the research to the Pakistani

villagers affected by the 2005 Earthquake and the 2010 floods, exposed on chapter 3.5.

Local skills, DIY and Tool rather than products

The victims normally have different basic skills and can collaborate on the design or construction of some products, so they feel more involved.

Tools rather than products

Local skills

Familiar

DIY

Adaptable, customizable

Promote local economy

Durable

Figure 53.Design brief for Pakistani villagers

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Design a solution to be done in the field by the victims, with local or imported materials, that will provide new products and/or new skills to the victims, and eventually an income source.


Area impoverishment

Culture shock

Local skills

Adaptable, customizable, Durable and Familiar

The victims want to choose what they get, instead of things being just donated. For example, in some cultures, if western clothes are provided, they might be not accepted. They also want durable and good quality relief products that they can keep for longer time.

Promote local economy

If the donations are competing with local marketers, the economy of the area will be negatively affected.

19.2. Design statementAt this point, and also as in the previous

Social projects for inclusion


concepts, some starting points will lead the ideation process by elucidating a design statement (Figure 54).


One of the most dramatic situations after a disaster is that after many months of the catastrophe, victims still remain in shelters, and need of material assistance like food or sanitation goods. This is because they have lost their way of obtaining incomes with the disaster as well as their main belongings, for instance farmers who have lost their equipment and the fields are destroyed. That is why in this concept the focus is towards providing an approach to material assistance. It aims to contribute something else to the victims, such as knowledge and eventually

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Area impoverishment

Culture shock

Local skills

incomes.

Area impoverishment

The areas struck by a disaster suffer from an economic recession, and empowerment strategies should be promoted to make the area prosperous so the victims will not suffer from social exclusion.

Culture shock

The solutions that are pre-planned by the agencies such as standard shelters, are not normally culturally accepted by the victims. Furthermore , equipment does not allow for the cultural self-expression, because these are generic, with limited options for customiza-tion.

Local skills

One of the facts observed in the Pakistan context mapping was that they have some crafting skills especially the women have knowledge on textiles, like sewing, weaving or spinning in traditional ways. This could be an opportunity for TexLab to deliver half-developed products that can be donated and finished by the local people.

The design statement is the following one:


Figure 54.Design statement creation for Pakistani villagers

Social projects for inclusion


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19.3. CriteriaThe criteria (using MoSCoW) to base and evaluate the ideas is the following:

1. It SHOULD promote the local economy.In some way, it should help to the whole community to progress and help to avoid conflicts and social exclusion.

2. It SHOULD improve the local skills and/or teach new ones.

It should use the local skills or help to develop new approaches that would be interesting for the victims, maybe because they get to keep the product, or because it might provide them incomes.

3. It COULD be an income source.The main desire is that the project could be set to create incomes eventually.

19.4. Fists ideasThe idea generation in this concept has been a lineal process instead of creating different alternatives (Figure 55). The first idea was to provide to the victims tools, materials and instructions so they could create the winter-ized items they would like to. Then it was noticed that the learning of techniques and new skills could be a more valuable product than the manufactured product itself. Conse-quently, the second idea was about sharing the knowledge that KICI has about recycling techniques, and shows them to the tradition-al weavers in a sort of teaching caravan that can go around the different villages teaching this. The following thought was that, if the victims already know how to recycle and cre-

3. Fair trade recycled fabrics

2. Teaching bus

1. DIY kits

Figure 55.First ideas for Pakistani villagers’ concept

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ate textiles, KICI can take advantage of their existing relations with fashion labels, and offer hand-made recycled textiles to them as a sustainable initiative while adding the social value of giving employment to disaster victims. The last approach will be the most beneficial for the victims according to the cri-teria evaluation. Additionally, TexLab will have opportunities for expansion and to create a positive impact on society.

19.5. Concept choiceThis concept is called Refabric, and the main idea can be described as a fair-trade, recycled clothing company. On one hand, Pakistan has a rather large textile industry and tradition of textiles, and there are public initiatives

to promote and protect the traditional way of weaving textiles, such as Khadi Crafts Development Company. 70 While on the other hand, fashion retailers are starting to create and distribute sustainable or social collec-tions (Figure 56), as there is some consumer demand for these products.

A storyboard of how this could be set up is created and shown in Figure 57. The textile waste can be collected here by KICI, but also on location using local waste. It will be sorted and shredded in Pakistan, and the sorted fibres that are ready to be spun into new threads will be delivered to the victims. They will spin and weave new textiles, which after will be turned into new clothes to be sold by a fashion retailer as a social and sustainable

Criteria 1. DIY kits 2. Teaching bus3. Fair trade recy-

cled fabrics-2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2

1. Local economy

2. Local skills

3. Income generationTOTAL -1 2 5

Table 4.Pakistani villagers ideas Harris profile

Traditional weaving

Sustainable and social awareness

Figure 56.Trends for Refabrics

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clothing collection.

This concept is based on some big assump-tions that need to be checked, such as: the actual sustainability of the materials trans-portation, the obtained quality by processing manually the fabrics with reclaimed fibres, the needed conditions to produce the traditional clothes, the acceptance of the victims of new techniques for something they always have being doing in the same way, etc. But still, if everything is checked, the project could have a great potential and impact. It is a new ap-proach that TexLab might consider as a future project.

19.6. EvaluationThe evaluation of the concept according with the imposed criteria:

1. It SHOULD promote the local economy.

This can be measured depending on the number of involved victims. But if a whole new line of clothing will be created, the pro-ject has a big growing potential, and it might empower an area in a very significative way.


It will encourage the use of traditional skills, but adding the value of recycling.

3. It COULD be an income source.

If it is a settled and regular project, the victims will have a stable job that will provide a regular income to their families. Further-more, the project will probably involve many women workers. As they are in often in less favourable conditions, it will encourage equal opportunities.

KICI Pakistan textiles

Sorting and shredding Traditional spinning

and weaving

Sorted fibresPakistan villagers

Social collection

Figure 57.Possible storyboard for Refabrics

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Ideation_� Concept assessments

20. Concept assessments

20202020202020202020 2020202020

Every concept has been created for a differ-ent briefing and purpose, implying that they cannot be comparable in many aspects. But TexLab should know the different character-istic of every one compared in certain terms to decide which one is more suitable for their objectives and timing. For this evaluation, the conclusion of the chapter where the project was analysed is used (chapter 2.4). The main highlighted parameters there are the main points to evaluate the three concepts, using a Harris profile.

According to the previous results, the less risky projects to implement are Mantoo and Tiletex. Refabrics will have a large impact, but it will need more effort and time. According to this ranking, some goals are set for the development of the three concepts. The level of detail varies on each one depending on the value they have in this project stage.

Mantoo

A model is created to be tested by potential buyers and NGOs. User test in disaster field is omitted and just the feedback form the NGOs will be consider now to evaluate its

usability. A potential story board to explain the concept is created. A cost estimation is also obtained.

Tiletex

The main focus is to get a prototype to evaluate the idea. The prototyping and detail-ing of this concept is divided in two, firstly the development of the corners and floor an-chors, and then the material testing. For the textile tiles, the research of the material for the textile plates is started, and advise for the ongoing research is provided. The manufac-turing and costs are not detailed in this stage. Feedback from NGOs is also asked.

Refabrics

This concept will need a deep research and elaboration to check all the assumptions mentioned in chapter 19.5. That are not interesting at this point. Some research for feasibility is performed including the feasibility for hand-made recycling and similar initia-tives, but the whole service design will not be developed.

Criteria Mantoo Tiletex Refabrics-2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2 -2 -1 1 2

Social and sustainable impactFinancial feasibilityTechnical feasibility

Growth potentialInnovation

Needed investmentPotential new partnerships

Sustainability awarenessTOTAL -16 6 3Figure 58.Table comparing the three concepts

EmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodimentEmbodiment

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F. Embodiment

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In this chapter the three concepts are detailed, each one according to the detailing level that was established in the previous chapter 20. A research will be performed if required, and a story board explaining the concept. The prototypes are created, and the tests carried out.

Mantoo

Tiletex

Refabrics

Det

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Stor

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Prot

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Test

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Cos

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Man

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Embodiment_� Mantoo

21. Mantoo

21212121212121212121 2121212121

Mantoo needs some research on feasibil-ity, and development of the proposed sales model. Some prototypes are created, and some tests are prepared. The final design is detailed, and an estimate on the manufactur-ing costs and time is researched.

21.1. ResearchThis concept is based on several assumptions that need to be checked, like the potential success of an initiative like this in the western market, or the amount of supplies that would be needed. They are detailed in the following paragraphs.

Supportive itemsWhen the Japan earthquake happened in 2011, several professionals launched sup-portive items to sale, and the revenues were donated to the earthquake relief. It was a devastating disaster and fully covered by the different media, what helped to the success of those initiatives. Eric Heins is the owner and only worker of Corter leather, a Web store that sells leather accessories worldwide but it is based in New England, USA. 71 He was one of those entrepreneurs who sold leather bracelets to support Japan victims and donated the 100% of the profit to the Red Cross. Through email contact, he informed that his initiative was very successful and he sold around 2.000 units in 4 weeks at a selling price of 20$, donating 16$ to the Red Cross, and the 4$ to cover the material price. This kind of projects spread all over the

Internet giving them great publicity, which is very interesting for KICI.

Another successful project that supported Japan victims was Scarves4Japan 72, where individuals donated scarves that were made by themselves to show to the victims that the rest of the people cared about them and to give them the supplies. They received 11.240

Figure 59.Above: Corter Japan bracelet; below: Scarves4Japan delivered to victims (Sources:

Corter & Scarves 4 Japan)

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items in total, although mainly Japan citizens supported this initiative; and as it normally happens, the national support is always greater. Concluding, this kind of campaigns can be popular if the media makes good coverage of it, and if the target feels close to the victims. When Mantoo is launched should be studied by the Red Cross and TexLab, although this might sound unethical, estimat-ing how popular can be that disaster, and the potential sales that they can have. Besides, they should keep a just-in-time model 73, to avoid overstock and economic losses.

One for oneCharitable giving has changed a lot in the past few years. Where we once put coins in a collection box, there are now many different creative ways you can help make a difference.

One area of real growth is transaction-based giving, such as the “one for one” model, in which a consumer buys a product and some-one less fortunate receives the same product for free. It’s been pioneered successfully by companies like TOMS Shoes 74 and the One Laptop Per Child 75 organisation.

They key for success is that the buyer needs:

•To feel that the product will be helpful for the receivers.•To see real stories, or to check that it is being donated•To find the product useful or attractive for themselves.

Mantoo is conceived to be an attractive

product that can have a big target group. It is a slightly modified common product, a hooded scarf, useful and innovative. It provides a new way of charity to those who are not convinced of the traditional donation ways. Besides of its recycled nature, which can attract more targets. And it can be a nice present as well.

Selling channelsMantoo was conceived to be sold on selling points on supermarkets, malls or big retailers, but by researching similar initiatives, you can see that most of them are sold through Web Stores, like the Japan bracelet explained two paragraphs before, and they were also suc-cessful. Therefore, both options are consid-ered, and online sales seems a better option (Table 5).

Online sales would allow to sell the product without being manufactured, which it is a great advantage, considering that people is more willing to donate the first days of a disaster. Besides, a tracking system is wanted, and the online sales will allow to track the purchases easily, and know the amount of sold scarves, and the amount of scarves that have to be delivered.

Online sales will allow to offer Mantoo internationally, although the capacity of the production should be checked, with the estimated sales, so there is no more demand than what actually can be produced.

Physical selling points Online sellingPros - Reach more targets

- The costumer can see the product- Easier digital tracking system- The product can be sold before it is producedShorter time to market, people is more willing to donate in the first weeks.- Online selling is getting more popular

Cons - Logistic costs- Difficult to track- Longer time

-Some targets will not be reached, as they do not buy online

Table 5. Comparison of physical sales versus online selling

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Stock estimateIn the first paragraph, it was checked that supportive products can be sold in the order of thousands, but how many will be needed? Recent cases that took place in winter areas have been researched, like the Turkey earth-quake that took place in October 2011, and the Japanese earthquake of March 2011. In both cases, the need of blankets, and the amount of homeless victims has been ana-lysed. In Turkey, they provided 283.551 blan-kets, including 93.980 from overseas aid 76, for 60.000 people who left their houses. 77 In Japan, as much as 495,000 people had to live in shelters when the nuclear crisis happened 78, and the total number of donated blankets is unknown, but just the Japanese Red Cross donated 125.000 blankets 79, some countries like India donated up to 26.000 blankets. 80

Therefore, the sales expectations are smaller than the real needs, and as much as we can get would be needed by the agencies if the

disaster is large-scale.

Tracking systemIt is desired that the buyer can track his donation till the moment the scarf is delivered to the victim. This is more feasible with the online sales, because all the purchases can be updated in real time in a database. Then, how the agencies will inform that the scarves have arrived is more complicate. ShelterBox (explained in chapter 8.4) is also tracked to the destiny when you purchase one on their website. 81 Basing on them, it is assumed that it is possible. The level of detail is what would have to be checked with the agency.

The minimum feasible approximation is to inform about when and where the items have arrive to the country, and notify to the purchaser. This would not be difficult, as all the scarves will be baled together, and numbered, so it can be easily said that the

scarves from “this number” to “that” number have landed, and it can be updated on the website. Then, the distribution among the victims will be done by the workers, and if the workers are able to do it, will update it to the website.

It is interesting that at least some pictures of the product on the field are uploaded in the website, but that seems also feasible, as the media coverage of this kind of events are get-ting easier, and digital communications can be deployed anywhere.

21.2. Target groupThe target group is given by the type of product and the way of selling it. Mantoo can be used by anyone, but it is more probable that young people, from 15 to 40 years will be more interested. In Figure 61, a hypotheti-cal image of the average purchaser is shown, and these are their main characteristics:

•Sustainability

They care where they products come from, and how sustainable they are.

Figure 60.ShelterBox deliver in Mentawai Islands - 2010 (Source: ShelterBox Flickr)

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•Social media

They are active in the social networks. They are informed through blogs or online newspapers about what is happening around them.

•Middle-income

They care where their money goes, and they do not spend a big amount if it is not studied first carefully.

•Graduates

They are in possession of a college degree.

•Trends aware

They enjoy fashion, although it is not a prior-ity for them, they prefer products with an added value, than just aesthetics.

•

•Online shoppers

They are active on shopping online, and they like it and trust it as a way of reaching more markets and products.

•Worldwide

They can be anywhere, they buy online and the product will come to them

•Sporadic donors

They do not make regular donations or are affiliated to any NGO. Although they like to donate sometimes. They do not look for it, if they see the opportunity, impulsively, they decide to collaborate.

21.3. StoryboardTo understand best the concept, a storyboard

Graduates

Social media

Middleincome

Worldwide

Sustainability

Trends aware

Online shoppers

Sporadic donors

Worldwide

Figure 61. Mantoo target group

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is created explaining the steps to take from now to the moment Mantoo stops to be sold. It is shown on Figure 64.

21.4. Prototyping and testingA prototype is created based on the measures of an existing hooded scarf. The pattern and the steps can be found in the appendix 38.

The material used is a recycled removal blan-ket, very similar to the ones used for disaster relief, and it is shown in Figure 62. It is cre-ated to be tested in different aspects that are explained in next chapter.

The main things to test with the prototype is how warm it is and if it is good to sleep. Mantoo has been tried by three different persons, in a room with a temperature of 12ºC and normal winter clothes. The main comments are:

Person 1: It is warm enough, and also pleas-ant to sleep because it is soft.

Person 2: It is warm to sleep, but he thinks that it will not be warm enough for out- Figure 62. Mantoo prototype

Figure 63.Mantoo testing

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Figure 64.Mantoo storyboard

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doors in harsh winter climates. Although if it is wrapped around the neck, it can be warmer, maybe if it is longer, it can be better wrapped, and that way, warmer.

Person 3: It smells funny, but it is comfortable and adaptable to wear in different ways.

Besides of this first evaluation, an online questionnaire is done to potential buyers, the results are on appendix 40, and the conclu-sions are part of the evaluation in chapter 24.

21.5. Costs and manufac-turingThere are mainly three aspects to cover on the price of Mantoo: Material, production and delivery.

MaterialThe chosen material is recycled blankets, which can be bought to manufacturers of re-moval blankets by metre. The chosen provider is AGH Support 82, a blanket producer from the Netherlands. It is needed 75 cm x 100 cm per scarf, and they provide fabric rolls of 150 cm width. The price per metre is 3,99€, therefore the material price per scarf is 2€.

Production The scarf should be cut and sewed together following the instructions and the pattern given in the appendix 38. The production is estimated in 5000 units, due to the done re-search on the potential sales in chapter 21.1, estimating that 2500 units will be sold.

An estimate of the price is asked to a produc-tion company that already works in KICI projects, De Haeghe Groep. 83

They estimated that every scarf will last half an hour to be produced, they will need 1 month to produce the 5000 units, and the price per scarf is 9,95€. The formal offer is not shown due to privacy issues.

DeliveryThe delivery to the disaster area is tradition-ally done by air due to the emergency of this situation, and the price varies depending on the destination and how far the area is from working airports or ports. FedEx services have been used to make an estimate in their rate finder site. 84 Firstly it is researched how much space and weight Mantoo have. A Red Cross bale of 20 blankets (150 x 200 cm) occupies 80 x 50 x 50 cm and weights 40 kg. 85 A blanket is equivalent to 4 Mantoos, therefore a bale would be 80 Mantoos. According to the estimate, half of the Mantoos will be ex-pedited to the disaster area, 2500 Mantoos, these are 32 bales. The estimate is done considering Amsterdam as origin and Pakistan as destination. FedEx calculates the price up to 25 parcels, therefore I divided in two the shipments. The price of sending 16 bales (1280 Mantoos) in express service (5 days) is 10.641,24 €. FedEx also provides tracking system, even for disaster relief. 86 Therefore, the sending price per Mantoo is 8,32 €. The delivery to the costumers is done through regular post and it will not be included in the price.

Final priceThis price should be considered as a rough estimate, and not as definitive final price. This is because the offers on material may change, the demand can grow or decrease, and mainly due to the uncertainty of the delivery costs.

Material for two Mantoos (3,99€) + Produc-tion of 2 Mantoos (9,95€*2) + Delivery of 1 Mantoo (8,32€) = 32,21€

Assuming that the website and the market-ing will imply some costs as well, but that there can be some discounts on the material purchase, and that the delivery will be done with more items entailing a smaller cost, the final suggested price is 30€.

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Embodiment_� Tiletex

22. Tiletex

22222222222222222222 2222222222

Most of the work in TileTex is done in the prototyping, because the priority right now is to find out the best combination of textiles to obtain a good floor insulator. Besides that, the main components and the main uses are detailed.

22.1. DetailingMain componentsSummarising, Tiletex is basically a modular floor system that is used as box in the trans-portation stage to save space and materials for the NGOs. The priority here is flexibility, due to the uncertainty of disasters. It is desired that the only “new” component are

Figure 65.Standard components. (Left to right, top) Pallet stacking corner, packing straps, transport strap (Left to right, bottom) BEWOdeck decking system, different ground pegs.

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the tiles, because they are the main added value to the existing solutions. The rest of the components need to be standard or easily reproducible.

Therefore, to compose the shape of the box, the main alternative suggested is stacking corners for pallets (Figure 65) where the tiles are inserted on. They can be rented or buy to logistic providers, and they can be reused. This solution is optimal if the NGOs can get them back to reuse them, otherwise it can be expensive. The thickness of the tile should be the same or smaller to fit on its slots. In the case it is smaller, the space can be filled with cardboard scraps to be tight and safe. The current thickness of the corner is 26,7 mm. In case the plastic corners are too expensive or they cannot be returned, another solution is suggested, cardboard corners (Figure 65). They can be put on every tile, and glued together. Straps are needed to maintain the box in shape, but they can be plastic packing straps, or transport straps, both of them very common in logistics (Figure 65). The transport straps are a better choice if they can be return back and used again, so we reduce waste. These components are tested by set-ting up a box with a substitute material for the tiles, it is explained in chapter 22.5.

To install the tiles, a system that is used to install wood decking is chosen (Figure 65). It is provided by German company, BEWOdeck 87. The tiles are done with pressed textiles and the spikes can be nailed on them. If the provision of these anchors is not possible, it will be possible to make a similar piece in an iron workshop, maybe already in the disaster country. Ground pegs are used to fix this system to the ground, and which kind of peg is used will differ depending on the type of terrain. This system is tested on chapter 22.5.

22.2. Floor usesThe main purpose of the floor is to provide an insulated area where the users can sit or lay in there. In the context research, it was observed that they have few furniture, or they do not have at all, and the activities they do inside the shelter, such as cooking, or eat-ing, and they normally do them sitting on the floor. Therefore, the floor is not intended to be an often walkable surface, but a comfort-able and warm surface to sit on there, similar to a carpet. If there is not a better option, they will also sleep in there, although mat-tresses and sleeping mats are preferred for comfort reasons. Normally, to winterized shel-ters’ floor, they use several layers of different materials, but Tiletex is intended to be used as single material that can be anchored to the ground and victims can sit and stay directly in there. Nevertheless, it might need a general base layer, like a plastic tarp, if the terrain is too humid, or if there are other factors that might affect negatively the life span of the tiles.

The required surface per person to sleep is 200 cm x 75 cm (extracted from the inter-view with Corine Treherne, IFRC, appendix 10), and that will be the minimum required surface. The tiles can be 50cm x 50cm, and if 12 tiles are provided, there will be an space of 200cm x 150cm, enough to sleep two adults or three children, and with 18 tiles it is enough for a family of 2 adults and 2 children (Figure 66).

The tiles will be installed using the anchors exposed in the previous section, and in the storyboard how to do it is explained better. The insulation value of the tiles should be between 0.8 m2K/W ≤ Rt ≤ 1.1 m2K/W, and it will be tested in several material proto-types, the calculations are in appendix 39. Several requirements arose from this usage, right now, the main focus is to find the best

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150cm

12 tiles

18 tiles

150cm200cm

300cm

Figure 66.Dimensions of the tiles

material to insulate, as it is the main goal of this concept, and the rest of the parameters will be estimated, and recommendations for future test will be given:

Top surface Bottom surface

•Flame and heat resistant •Resistant to wear and tear •Pleasant to the touch •Breathable

•Insulating•Permeable for water, rot-proof•Adaptable to rough surfaces•Resistant to vermin

22.3. Box purposeThe main advantage of the box is that the re-lief agencies will save transporting space, and cardboard use will be reduce. The items that the box can contain are several, but the most interesting one is winterisation kits. The floor is intended to be part of a winterisation kit, therefore, the box can contain that kit. The tiles are 50cm x 50cm, as it was said before, and one box is composed by just 6 tiles. The ideal situation is that the box is a winterisa-tion kit for one family of 2 adults and 2 children, and the amount of needed tiles for

that is 18, therefore, 12 tiles should be piled inside the box. Besides, clear instruction for installing them should be given and a ham-mer. In case plastic corners are used and not cardboard ones, they should be returned to the agency workers. A strategy to get them back can be giving cash vouchers in return of the plastic corners. The same will happen if heavy transport straps are used.

Therefore, a winter kit might be composed by:

•6 tiles shaping the box•12 piled tiles inside the box•8 plastic corners (to return) or 8 cardboard corners•6 plastic or 2 fabric straps•12 tiles piled inside•27 connector anchors •12 edge anchors•39 ground pegs•Installing instructions•Hammer•8 high quality blankets•Sewing kit (scissors, needle and thread)•4m x 15m of winter fabric•4 sleeping pads (optional, for comfort)

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These are just a suggestion of what the box might contain, but of course it will be adapted to the necessities of every situation. The main idea is that they are prepackaged in the supplies warehouse so they can be deliv-ered and handed to the victims faster. Several requirements arise from the stage of box use:

•Non-degradable in storage•Stackable•Drop resistant•Resist to compression

These requirements are estimated and not measure in the testing chapter because the box prototype is done with a substitute mate-rial instead of the final tiles due to a lack of material.

22.4. StoryboardThis product is conceived for winter emer-gencies, but previous agreements should be done with the NGOs and they will decide if the tiles will be manufactured and stocked for potential disasters, or if they will be produce whenever they are needed. This will depend also with the agreements done with the manufacturing company. The rest of the com-ponents can be ordered whenever they are needed, making it easier for the agencies.

How to install the floor should be very clear to be done by the victims. In Figure 67 a storyboard that can be used as instructions is shown. It shows how to start, how to proceed and how to install the edge tiles. Those are the most difficult ones because the four connectors are anchored to the ground before nailing the tile, and it should be bent to fit there.

x12

x27

x39

x18

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x12

x27

x39

x18

Figure 67.Installing the tiles

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22.5. Prototyping and testingThe prototyping and testing phase is fo-cused on three aspects: tiles, box and floor. Firstly, different tiles are obtained, and their insulation capacity is tested. Then the box is created with the suggested components, and tested on resistance. And the last part is the floor, the tiles are installed and tested as floor

TilesTo main objective of the tiles is to obtained a semi-rigid material that can be used as floor and box walls. They should insulate the victims while sleeping, and at the same time, they should fulfil floor requirements, , that the current sleeping mats do not fulfil, already mentioned in the previous chapter 22.2.

The used technique is to press textiles mats with a heated plate because it will provide the rigidness the floor need. The mats have synthetic fibres that melt and act as binder. The main used mats are composed by textiles blends. The first material used is the insula-tion material that KICI is already producing with Metisse 121, it is composed by 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic and 15 % rest of other fibres. Acrylic mats and polyester mats are also used. (Figure 68)

The tests are done using one single material, and then using a sandwich configuration, with the Metisse product as inner layer, and acrylic or polyester as outer layers, using different thickness and pressing parameters (Figure 68). Later on, a PLA film is added to the outer layers of the tiles to improve the rigidness and water resistance. In appendix

Figure 68.Top left: Original materials, acrylic, Metisse mat and polyester; Top right: Tiles results with and without PLA; Bottom: Top and bottom sides of the final tile.

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38 the whole process is described.

Reaching an insulation value enough to sleep on the tiles in winter climates is the main requirement to fulfil. That value is the same insulation that provides polystyrene foam of 3 cm., therefore, the tiles are tested and compared with the results of polystyrene foam. These tests are described in appendix 39. After the first tests, a final tile with the optimal found properties is created (Figure 68). It has a bottom layer of PLA to be water resistant, a inner layer of 15 cm. (originally) of Metisse insulation material, and a top layer of polyester that is better than Metisse to be resistant to wear and tear, but also breath-able, and fire resistant.

The evaluation with the requirements mentioned in the previous chapter is done in Table 6. The polyester layer is flame and water resistant, and it is also resistant to wear and tear, although this can be researched further with rougher tests. It also provides a pleasant surface, and the breathability (to avoid perspiration) theoretically is provided because the material is a textile mat, but it should be further researched too. In the bottom surface,the PLA layer gives the water-permeability. In the tests it showed that it can be adapted to irregular surfaces. The PLA layer might provide the resistance to vermin, but it should be further researched.

Top surface Bottom surface

•Flame and heat resistant

•Insulating •Resistant to wear and tear

•Permeable for water, rot-proof

•Pleasant to the touch •Adaptable to

rough surfaces •Breathable •Resistant to

vermin ?Table 6. Tiles’ requirements

BoxTwo options are tested as box (Figure 69). The box needs six tiles as sides, they are done with a substitute material in this proto-type, polystyrene foam cover with recycled blankets (the blankets are for the appear-ance). Firstly it is done with the suggested plastic corners. It is easily assembled, but it does not provide enough stability. The top and bottom tiles are not fitted in a slot like the other ones, and that makes them to be less fixated, even using the straps. Besides, the final tiles are thicker than the slots of the plastic corners, making it not suitable for them. Due to these reasons they are discarded.

Cardboard corners are the alternative op-tion (maintaining the requirement that they should be easily produced). Every corner is created with 4 pieces that are glued together. It will need plastic wrapping to close the gaps that appear among the tiles, and straps to ensure the stability. The evaluation of the requirements is the following:

•Non-degradable in storage - The plastic wrapping will protect the tiles.

•Stackable - ?The cardboard corners allow to stack them, but it would have to be tested with the tiles, now it is not possible due to lack of materials.

•Drop resistant - The cardboard resist and protect the tiles against drops.

•Resist to compression - ?This is should be tested with final tiles too.

The criticism to this solution is that the corners cannot be reused, and the amount of cardboard used is smaller than using regular boxes, but it is still used a considerable quantity. This is reviewed and evaluated in the chapter 25.

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Figure 69.Top: Plastic corners Bottom: Cardboard corners

FloorThe final tile is anchored to a rough ground (in a park) to see how good is the fixation, and how easy is to install it. Just one tile is anchored, and another one is nailed to it to see how thick is the gap between them. The connectors were nailed to the ground with pegs and a hammer, it was not difficult and they seemed enough resistant and well fixated. The four connectors are nailed, and the tile is fixated by bending it and fitting it on the four tiles, that is the most difficult tile to install (Figure 70), the tiles that are on the edges and the connectors need to be fixated before the tile (Figure 67). The result was that the tile’s edges are too soft and it will not last enough. The sides should be hardened with a

PLA or with more textile fibres to increase the density and improve the fixation.

22.6. Costs and manufac-turingThe main goal in this concept was to develop a prototype to be tested, but a estimation on the costs is also needed, as one of the main requirements was easy manufacturing, and keep a low price. This estimation considers the materials that are needed for a family of four people.

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ComponentQuan-

tityUnit price

Total price

Metisse mats 121 4,5 m2 16€/m2 72€

PLA film 88 4,5 m2 2€/m2 9€

Polyester mats 4,5 m2 0,46€/m2 2,07€

Mats processing -Un-known

Un-known

IGEL®V2 - Con-nectors 89 27 1,60 € € 43,20

IGEL®V2 -

Starter 8912 2,60 € € 31,20

Ground pegs 90 39 0,21 € € 8,19Cardboard corners 91 32 0,04 € € 1,28

167,39€

Table 7.Tiletex costs estimation

Figure 70.Top: Anchoring the floor

The price (Table 7) is estimated by using the unit price of each component. The polyester mats price is a estimation given by KICI, the purchaser of them, because they didn’t have that information. We can consider a reduc-tion of the 15% when bigger quantities are purchased, resulting in 142,49 € (cost of the materials excluding the tile manufacturing. This costs estimation is evaluated in chapter 25). The hammer is not included because it is a usual tool that the NGOs provide for shelter winterization, but it will have a cost of 10€. 43

The possible manufacturing process for the tiles is researched. A German company called Berstoff 92 (who produced already reinforced fabrics) are contacted, and they have re-quested a prototype to check the production feasibility. The potential technology is calen-dering, a technique where the textiles pass through rolls under certain temperature and pressure. The textiles mats with the PLA film would be pressed and turned into the tiles material, and after that they would be cut. How the textile mats are obtained is already explained in appendix 38.

Figure 71.Calender from Berstoff

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23. Refabrics

23232323232323232323 2323232323

This concept strays from the original assign-ment, but it appeared as an interesting option to consider by KICI, and it seemed interesting to research it and propose it as possible solu-tion. It is not a product concept, but a new business model that can help to the victims in a different but very effective way, giving them a job and teaching them new skills. In this chapter some aspects on its feasibility are researched and a model is proposed.

23.1. ResearchThis project is based on some assumptions that need to be checked firstly. First, how the textiles would be produced and the feasibility of recycling by hand is researched, secondly, the success of similar projects, and thirdly, it is researched if the transportation of clothes is

more sustainable than cotton growing.

Khadi This project’s objective is for the victims to use their existing techniques to spin and weave textiles, but using recycled textiles in-stead of raw materials. The traditional textiles that are produced in Pakistan and India are called Khadi or Khaddar, it is normally done with cotton, although silk or wool is also used, and it involves hand (home) spun and hand (home) woven fabrics. 94 This tradition also involves a whole cultural movement that was started in India by Mahatma Gandhi to promote rural self-employment and self-reli-ance. 95 It became more popular in India, but there are initiatives in Pakistan as well, like the Khadi Crafts Development Company 70. It was launched in 2009 as a public-private partner-ship project, under the government’s initiative for village product specialisation.

The raw cotton is carded and spun using a spinning wheel to create the yarn, and weave using a pit loom. If colours are wanted, the yarns are typically dyed before weaving with natural ingredients. Because the whole spin-ning process is done by hand, the yarns have an irregularity that adds the striated character of the fabric. The finished fabric has a very natural, earthy texture that can be very soft to the touch with a “crushed” look. (Figure 72)

The main motivation that the artisans can have to work on this project and change their traditional way of working is that the Figure 72.Khadi fabrics

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raw cotton is becoming more expensive and scarce, they will learn how to spin recy-cled cotton, but it is desired that the new technique is the most similar as possible to the traditional one The results of the Khadi done with the recycled cotton should be researched, to check that their properties do not change.

Recycling by handThe main problem for recycling textiles is that the fibres get shorter after the shredding of the clothes, and it is more difficult to spin them into thin yarn just by using recycled materials, but KICI is researching this and they are improving the results. The have got recycled cotton with still long fibres by shred-ding cotton garments using several cylinders, and it can be mixed with a small percentage (<50%) of raw cotton to obtain high quality yarn (Figure 73). The advantage of Khadi is that they do not make refined yarns, as they do it by hand, and theoretically, it would be able to be done with recycled cotton as well. This will need further research, but a student from Textile Design at the Rietveld Academy, Jasmine Koschutnig 96 is spinning recycled

Figure 73.Left: 100% recycled acrylic yarn Right: White raw cotton, black recycled cotton from T-shirts, grey recycled cotton from jeans

acrylic yarn by hand with good results. It is not a regular thin yarn, but it is possible to make new fabrics out of it (Figure 73). A further research recreating the real situa-tion with potential workers would have to be done to see if they are able to get good quality yarn with KICI recycled cotton. If this would not be possible, the yarn can be in-dustrially manufactured, and they still would be able to weave textiles with the provided recycled yarn.

Similar projectsThere is a growing trend in fashion of social and sustainable projects, as it was mentioned in chapter 19.5. There are already projects that employ craftsman from impoverished areas to sell products on the western market, and others that reused or recycled materi-als to create fashion products. A very similar initiative can be Ragbag,97 they use plastic waste to create bags in India employing local people, and they have received several awards for their work.

The I Owe You Project 98 also employs Indian rural people to hand-weave fabrics to pro-

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duce fashion garments. They collaborate with local weaving cooperatives, and they use the traditional weaving techniques. The garments are later produced in Italy, Spain or Portugal.

The main added values that this two compa-nies share is good design with a nice story behind. Ragbag has also the added value of recycling waste, and the IOU project uses their Internet website so costumers can see who actually did their garments, including videos of the artisans.

The most attractive option for TexLab right now is to partner with an existing fashion company, and local weaving cooperatives to make a fashion sustainable and social fashion line, offering the values that the mentioned company have. TexLab can also offer the

option of recycling textiles to companies like the IOU project that already employ artisans in their processes.

Starting a new company from zero is also an option, but it is more risky and a bigger investment would be needed.

Sustainable issues: Logistics vs. ProductionThe social value of this concept is clear: employing and teaching recycling skills to artisans in rural Pakistan. Nevertheless, the sustainable value is based on an assumption: Transporting and recycling discarded textiles is more sustainable than growing raw cotton. This assumption should be checked because the discarded garments should be trans-ported to Pakistan, and they have to come

Textile, woven cotton, at plant /CLO S

Cancinogens

0

0.5

2

1,5

kPt

1

Ecotoxicity

Resp. organics

Acidification/Eutrophication

Land use

Resp. inorganics

Climate change

Minerals

Fossil fuels

Radiation

Ozone layerTransport, aircraft, fright, intercontinental/RER

Yarn production, cotton fibres /CLO S

Figure 74.Environmental Impact Analysis calculated with SimaPro

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Textile, woven cotton, at plant /CLO S

Cancinogens

0

0.5

2

1,5

kPt

1

Ecotoxicity

Resp. organics

Acidification/Eutrophication

Land use

Resp. inorganics

Climate change

Minerals

Fossil fuels

Radiation

Ozone layerTransport, aircraft, fright, intercontinental/RER

Yarn production, cotton fibres /CLO S

back again to be manufactured and sold, which entails a great amount of emissions. To check this assumption, the Life Cycle Analysis Software SimaPro 99 has been used. It hasn’t been researched the whole LCA of both alternatives, but just the main aspects that differ, that is production of cotton including transportation from China to the Nether-lands, versus air transportation from the Netherlands to Pakistan, and from Pakistan to Netherlands, in total 11200 km. The process of shredding the discarded is not consid-ered, but instead it is consider the process of transforming raw cotton into yarn. The three processes are compared, considering a tone of cotton as base (Figure 74), and their environmental impact is measure in kilopoints (extracted from SimaPro Database).

In Figure 74 it can be observed that the production of cotton has a significantly higher impact than transporting, or than just the production of yarn excluding the cotton growing. This is very fast approach that in any case should be researched considering the whole life cycle to have more conclusive re-sults, but it is enough to give a first idea and check the assumption as right, it is more sus-tainable to ship the discarded clothes there to be recycled than growing new cotton.

23.2. Business model canvasA tool to visualised the proposed business is used, the business model canvas. 100 This canvas describes the firm’s value proposition, infrastructure, customers, and finances. This is the possible business model, but it can be adapted to new and future objectives. In the proposed model, the highlighted words are the new activities that Texlab would have to implement; in the rest of the activities they already have experience or partners. The main added value is the hand-made fabrics that can be sold telling a story about its origin. The costumers will be able to see the old garments that have been recycled, how it was turned into cotton, spun and weaved by artisans, and tailored into their new clothes. They can get more costumers by offering discounts in return from their old clothes, and they can use the Internet as main informa-tion channel. The costumers will be fashion consumers that are also worried about their clothes’ origin. The main resources and part-ners TexLab has to contact are the artisans, and invest on their equipment. TexLab already collaborates with clothing companies, like G-Star, which can be a potential partner in this project, but new partners can be done if the existing ones do not fit on the project. The main income generation is created by the sales of the clothing. The main difference

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Key Partners

Cost Structure

Key activities

Key resources

Value propositionBusiness Model Can

- Weaving societies

- Pakistani artisans

- Clothing sorters and shredders

- Clothing manufac-turer

- Clothing pick-up- Cotton processing- Spinning and weaving- Clothing manufac-turing- Distribution

- Artisans salaries and equipment

- Logistics and distribution costs

- Manufacturing costs: Shredding, sewing...

- Tailoring and design

- Sustainable clothing

- Hand-made cloth-ing, high qualit

- Design, attclothes

- Pit looms and spin-ning wheels

- Discarded garments

- Shredding machines

- Sewing machines

-Internet

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Figure 75.Business model canvas for Refabrics

Revenue Streams

oposition Customer Relations

Channels

Customer SegmentsBusiness Model Canvas

- Recycled clothing sales

- Discarded garments

- Sustainable recycled

- Hand-made cloth-ing, high quality

- Design, attractive

- Online informa-tion about their clothes’ origin

- Online sales- Pick-up of old clothes and offer discounts for them

- Middle-high income level

- 20 - 50 years

- Fashion consum-ers

- Social and sustain-able responsible

- Website

- Clothing store

- Social networks

- Advertisement

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KICI

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KICI

with a traditional clothing business is that the cotton is recycled instead of grown, and the fabrics are handmade. This can entail a bigger cost and the clothes will have a larger price due to that, but we assume that costumers are willing to pay more for this kind of prod-uct by seeing the success of similar initiatives as Ragbag or IOU Project. The consumer seg-ments is very similar to the segment explained for Mantoo (chapter 21.2), sustainable fash-ion consumers that want to collaborate with their purchase in social projects.

23.3. StoryboardA storyboard is created to support the busi-ness model. The storyboard tries to explain the journey that the clothes will have from the donation to the purchase of the recy-cled one. This story should be detailed in the future, like how exactly the people will receive discounts for the old clothes, and how it would be possible to see the whole story of the garment in the website, including the original recycled clothes from where they come from.

EvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluationEvaluation

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G. Evaluation

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In this final chapter every concept is evaluated. They are evaluated from a personal prospective and from some of the potential affected stakeholders of them. The future actions that should be performed in every concept are also exposed, and finally, a personal evaluation of the project is written.

Evaluation

Recommendations

Personal evaluation

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Evaluation_� Mantoo assessment

24. Mantoo assessment

24242424242424242424 2424242424

24.1. CriteriaA first evaluation is done with the stated criteria in the ideation of the concept to re-check that the concept fulfils the initial goals.(Chapter 17.3).


The manufacturing of Mantoo is easy. The material can be purchased to existing relief blankets provides, and make an agreement with them to provide them discarded textiles. Then it needs to be sewed following a simple pattern and steps.

2. It MUST be attractive for the western market.

This is checked with a questionnaire that has shown a general good feedback. This evalua-tion is explained in the following paragraph.


It has been tried to sleep indoor and it is comfortable, but it should be tested in the real situation.


This criteria has been difficult to fulfil because it can be contradictory with the criteria number 2, attractive but neutral. That is why neutral colours are used, and the shape it is innovative but still familiar, a scarf with hood. Nevertheless, a user test with victims is miss-ing and it will confirm this criteria.

24.2. EvaluationTwo different groups have evaluated Mantoo, firstly an online questionnaire has been done to potential buyers, and secondly, several NGO workers have been contacted, receiving feedback from two people.

Buyers evaluationAn online questionnaire was launched in a website, and the link was posted in Social Networks, receiving feedback from anony-mous people, in multiple choice questions and open questions. The complete question-naire and the answers are on appendix 40.

It was answered by 38 people (14 men and 23 women), with ages from 21 to 60 years old, and average age of 28 years. The first questions were about likability, 20 people an-swered they would buy it, 21 that they would wear it, and 12 respondents said they liked it, but not for themselves. The main aesthetic suggestion was related with colours, 19 people suggested to offer more variety, 7 of them also suggested more material choices. About the usability, 28 people answered they would wear it for cold protection, and 27 an-swered that they think that it might be useful for the victims too. The tracking system has been very accepted as well by 28 respond-ents. About the NGO nature, 16 respondents preferred big well-known NGOs, 9 respond-ents didn’t care if it was big or small, and 5 respondents prefer small independent NGOs. About the purchase, 23 respondents would buy through an online store, and they sug-gested prices from 5€ to 40€, 8 respondents

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suggested 20€, and 6 respondents suggested 30€, and the average suggested price is 19€.

In conclusion, the idea and the design are well accepted, but they feel they will need more variety. One of the requirements was to use neutral colours like brown or grey. Therefore, a solution can be to provide colour stripes in shades of these colours (Figure 76).

relief to ask feedback to experienced workers. The discussion can be seen in appendix 36.5. In general they seem enthusiastic about the product and they find it useful. They also like the sales model, and give recommendations to contact the Red Cross and local groups.

UsabilityAs it was explained in the criteria evalua-tion, it has not been possible to carry out a user test with victims. It has been tried to sleep and it has been comfort and warmth, and Mark Cox gave a positive feedback. Nevertheless, it is not possible to ensure its usability for the victims until a test with them is performed. It should be also checked if the victims would like it and wear it, or if it would imply a cultural shock for them, as Eelko suggested. This would change depending on the region, therefore it should be tested by different cultural groups.

Sales modelThe model “buy one, give one” was accepted well in the questionnaire, and mainly the tracking system. But the main problem is the pointed one by Mark Cox, there should be a minimum amount in a big-scale emergency. That would have to be agreed with the NGOs, and checked how similar initiatives copes with it: who should be the beneficiaries and who should get no Mantoo.

Costs and manufacturingThe final price is a bit higher than what the respondents suggest, therefore manufac-turers and providers alternatives should be researched to save costs. Online sales is an accepted option for the respondents which saves costs and allows a just-in-time manu-facturing model to create what is actually needed. The problem of just-in-time is that it is more expensive than ordering big amounts from the beginning, but they can be com-

Figure 76.Mantoo colour alternatives

NGOs evaluationMark Cox (introduced in page 2)has evaluat-ed Mantoo. He liked the design and found it useful for the victims. He disagreed with the production and sales model. He pointed out that during emergencies there are needed a great number of supplies; therefore they should be stocked in advance, and the Red Cross cannot provide supplies to some of the victims and not to other victims.

Eelko Brouer, also from the Red Cross (page 2) evaluated Mantoo as well, and he com-mented that he wasn’t sure that all the cul-tures would accept it. He suggested a poncho instead, that can be used as blanket as well.

The concept has been posted as well in Internet communities related with disaster

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Evaluation_� Mantoo assessment

Figure 77.TOMS shoes campaign

bined, and the production can be adapted to the demand. The materials are already manu-factured for other purposes, and the sewing process is fast, therefore is easily manufac-tured. Which NGO is the beneficiary is not so important for the respondents, although it is slightly preferred a well-known NGO than a small one.

24.3. Recommendations and future stepsThe main recommendations and the follow-ing steps to be taken are:

•Contact the Red Cross and other NGOs to get feedback on the product a sales model and find out the minimum stock.•Research other options than natural disas-ters. Instead of disaster emergencies, where tens of thousands of supplies are needed, other situations where winter supplies are needed can be the target, like for homeless in cold waves or for kids in winter under-developed areas. Some potential countries are the ones mentioned in chapter 5.3. This decision should be taken in collaboration of

an NGO.•Contact relief blankets manufacturers and research the possibility of manufacturing there the scarves too to save costs and reach the price suggested by the question-naire respondents. Check colour possibili-ties. A possible manufacturer is Spinners & Spinners, a Kenyan textile company who already have contact with TexLab and they are already blankets providers for the Red Cross. •The questionnaire showed potential and that the people liked the idea, if this project has a good marketing strategy and publicity, it could be scaled up and more benefits could be obtained. Those benefits could be donated to the NGO. The already mentioned label TOMS shoes 74 is a good example of success on this kind of initia-tives, by offering a trendy design and an ac-tive marketing campaign in different media (Figure 77).

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25. Tiletex assessment

25252525252525252525 2525252525

25.1. CriteriaThe concept is firstly assessed with the initial criteria, like it has been done with Mantoo.

1. It MUST be easily manufactured and with minimum costs.

Although the manufacturing seems not complicate, the materials make the product more expensive. This could be improved by purchasing big amounts and making long-term agreements with providers.


The surface has the same height and same material distribution, and the gaps are no noticeable.


This criteria was not fulfil, and it is not appli-cable anymore because the box use has been discarded.

4. It COULD use standard process and pieces or slightly modified standard pieces.

The main pieces apart from the tiles are con-ceived by thinking about existing pieces or simple manufacturing. They are easily repro-ducible in different workshops or factories.

5. It SHOULD have a strong and safe con-nection to the ground.

The tests performed well, but this should be checked in the field.

25.2. EvaluationPrototype and tests resultsThe first observation from the tests was the failure of the box. It has been proved that it is

not an efficient usage, many extra compo-nents are still needed to set it up, like the corners, straps and plastic film, if it is com-pared with the current cardboard boxes, this solution does not save materials and it might be more expensive. Therefore it is discarded. Instead, it is more interesting to research the way of compressing the tiles to take out the air from them and save shipping space. This seems possible if it is compressed in vacuum bales.

The anchors performed well in the tests, it was well fixated, although it should be tested in extreme situations and during longer time.

The tiles have the required insulation and it has potential as floor/mattresses for fast-deployment in transitional shelters that need a fast winterisation strategy. The shape and the size are optimal to adapt them to differ-ent shelters and spaces. If needed, they can be cut, and they can be used also for wall insulation if needed. It is thinner and more resistant than the current sleeping mats, but they can be compressed to save space, as it was mentioned before.

UsabilityThe evaluation on usability is missing due to lack of materials and the impossibility of be-ing on the field. It should be tested installing the complete floor in a similar context and try it with different users during a period of a week minimum. Then, it would have to be tested in a real disaster to ensure the product suitability.

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Evaluation_� Tiletex assessment

Costs and manufacturingThe estimated cost (142,49 €) is compared with the current winterisation items (chapter 8.3). Tiletex will substitute part of the blan-kets (from 3 blankets per person to 2), the mattresses and the plastic sheeting, which has a cost of 99,46€, considerable inferior to the estimated price of Tiletex. The price will be a determining factor of success and it should be reduced by trying to make agree-ments with suppliers and finding cheaper pieces for anchoring. Nevertheless, it should be consider that Tiletex will save shipping costs as it has a smaller volume.

The higher prices come from the Metisse material and from the anchoors. The Metisse material price can be reduced by researching the production facility along with Metisse and finding a more efficient combination of materials or manufacturing processes. That is feasible due to the existing relation between KICI and Metisse. The anchoor suppliers can be contacted to negotiate the current price by setting long-term agreements, or to adapt a production with a simplified design.

NGOs evaluationMark Cox has evaluated Tiletex as well. About the box, he suggested that it could be a solution if the corners are created to have a second life in the field. He thought that the anchors were too rough, and suggested to use plastic better. Besides, he said that some terrains are difficult to nail on them, and it would be better to reduce the amount of required anchors. He liked the appearance of the material, and he pointed out that it is important that it allows the top layer to breath to avoid perspiration, which will lead to cold. That factor needs to be tested. He was very enthusiastic about the idea of pro-viding a winterisation kit for one family with all the required materials and instructions to upgrade the current shelters. Eelko also saw

great potential on this idea (promising option in his own words).

25.3. Recommendations and future stepsThe main recommendations and following steps to be taken are:

•Research and test in qualify labs the prop-erties of the tiles: Insulation value (R-value), water absorption, breathability, wear and tear resistance, flame resistance and vermin resistance.•Test how to vacuum the tiles to extract the most of the air and save space.•Bring prototype to manufacturing com-panies to find out the best techniques to produce it. •Negotiate price of anchors or design an alternative based on the proposed pieces.•Start the research to make a winterized kit with recycled textiles. They can provide kits to the Red Cross with items like the devel-oped floor, Tiletex, include manufactured items from recycled textiles like blankets and winter fabrics, and extra items like tools, and sewing kits (). Look partners and provid-ers for it, and make a proposal to the Red Cross.

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26. Refabrics assessment

26262626262626262626 2626262626

26.1. CriteriaThe first evaluation is done with the stated criteria in the ideation of the concept (Chap-ter 19.3).

1. It SHOULD promote the local economy.

It promotes the economy by providing jobs to artisans. This should be started with weaving societies because they already know who to employ to avoid conflicts within the com-munity.


Refabrics will not teach completely new skills, but they will learn how to adapt their existing weaving skills to use recycled cotton. It could teach too to those who still don’t know how to spin and weave, and they will be taught by the community.

3. It COULD be an income source.

It will provide an income source to the artisans, and constant income if the project is successful.

26.2. EvaluationRefabrics is a concept for a business propo-sition, and it has many assumptions that can affect its success. If these assumptions are right, the concept has a big growing potential. KICI will be able to receive more used clothes from consumers, the percentage of recovered clothes will increase, and at the same time, they will be involved in a social project by employing rural people in underde-veloped areas.

Weaving societies and feasibil-ityIt is assumed that the weaving societies and the local artisans want to work on a project like this. This should be checked along with the technical feasibility. KICI is obtaining very good results shredding cotton with results that are very similar to raw cotton, but this is still on research, and the success of this pro-ject will depend on that results. And then, the feasibility to make it by hand is also unknown and it will have to be researched as well in collaboration with artisans.

Costs and buyersOne of the main disadvantages that Refabrics might have is that the manufacturing price can be higher. The price of growing of cotton is here substituted by the activities of dis-carded clothes collection, transportation and shredding; and the automated fabrics pro-duction is substituted by hand-made fabrics production. There will probably a difference that will make the clothes more expensive. It is assumed that the target buyer is willing to pay more for a sustainable and social project, but this should be analysed as well.

Fashion partners

There are two possible strategies: finding a existing fashion company to partner with, or create a new fashion label. The last option will require a bigger investment and it has more risks than partnering with an existing one. The already mentioned label the IOU

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project (who already works with Indian arti-sans to weave the fabrics) has been contact-ed. They showed interest on using recycled cotton as substitute of raw cotton, but they were concern about the cost of transporting it to India, and if it still would be possible to create fabrics with the same quality. The IOU project can be a very interesting partner as they are already using Indian artisans to weave the fabrics they use in their clothes (Figure 78).

The product should have a strong design factor to compete with the current fashion labels.

26.3. Recommendations and future stepsThe next steps that TexLab should follow are:

•Research how the recycled cotton can be spun by hand and the required ratio of raw and recycled cotton. They should work with experienced people on hand spinning; and research together how the cotton should be shredded and combined with raw fibres to obtain the best results.

•Contact weaving societies to research the acceptance of the idea, to start with, the Khadi Crafts Development Company 70 from Pakistan can be a start.•Research the economical feasibility. Lo-gistics costs, shredding costs, and artisans’ salaries are the main new activities.•Contact with potential partners, like the fashion label IOU project, or the existing partner G-Star, and expose the project.•Research the feasibility of starting their fashion label. Check the advantages over partnering with existing ones.•It will need also a good marketing campaign to reach the target users and a good development of the corporate image. Besides, the design of the clothes should also fit the target needs to succeed. •The partnered fashion label to work with should fit on the vision of Refabrics, with medium-high quality garments at a reason-able price, and a sustainable and social vision.

Figure 78.The IOU project offers a good design with a story behind of the artisan

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27. General assessment

27272727272727272727 2727272727

The first dilemma that arose was seeing the contradictions of the main three stakeholders, how to manage with their different interests, and how to prioritize and superimpose one’s requirements over another one’s. The chosen approach (one concept for every stakeholder) allowed to focus on some specific points that were related to each stakeholder. From those points it was scaled up to the rest of the stakeholders requirements, and it was easier than trying to find a common focus to satisfy to all of the stakeholders.

The second difficulty was the context’s dimension. It has been tried to make a deep research on the field trying to understand all the parameters and problematic that might affect the disaster relief in winter areas. The general requirements are one of the main re-sults of the context analysis, which will allow to TexLab to have an idea of the main things to consider for future projects at a glance. Then, some choices were made to focus every concept and several solutions were explored showing variety to TexLab.

It has been proved that many different results can be obtained from recycling textiles suit-able for disaster relief, and TexLab should keep on that track. Besides of products, it is interesting to research new initiatives that offer something extra, like a new funding approach, a new service, or a new business model.

It is difficult to compete in price with the cur-rent disaster relief products, and the strategy for other future projects should be related

with improving the usability, performance and/or efficiency. The products besides should count with real facts, the traditional NGOs like the Red Cross need proofs showing that those products will be successful, as they do not want to take risks. Therefore, the product should be well researched, or it should entail little risks.

The whole project and the development of the project will be presented to TexLab, showing the main results and recommenda-tions for future steps.

The main step to be taken from right now in all of the concepts is to make a deeper feasi-bility research, checking the financial aspects and the interest of the potential partners. The right partners will be crucial to ensure the success in all of the concepts. Within the course of this project some potential partners have been contacted, but TexLab has now the ability to check their network and start making propositions.

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Evaluation_� Personal evaluation

28. Personal evaluation

28282828282828282828 2828282828

This project has been the biggest academical challenge I have had so far. I have learnt a lot about design, but also about myself. I have learnt discipline, commitment and decision-making.

I am happy and satisfied with the outcomes, I have managed to cope with a complex context like disasters relief, and I have shown three different paths for TexLab in shape of concepts. They can choose now if they want to continue with one project, with none, or with all of them. I really cannot tell which one they should follow, as I think the three of them can be successful, and that decision will have to be taken depending on their possibili-ties, ambition and future developments.

The given assignment was broad and it left many decisions to be taken by myself. Disaster relief is a field where many different things can be done to help, and where many initiatives, which try to help, actually do not help. I felt overwhelmed with all the activities, problems and factors that this context entails, and with the amount of information that there is already researched. I thought, what can I do to help if I don’t know anything about disasters and my assumptions may be all wrong? Who am I to say what the victims need? In this case, I though that the best situation was to be surrounded all the time by professionals that knew the context perfectly, but that was not possible. Therefore, I tried to find and contact them. And, as alternative, I just used whoever I had nearby, professionals in their own areas, and of course, my com-mon sense and intuition. I made an extensive

research to decide the biggest problems I saw, I tried to check that those problems where real, and I developed solutions using my creativity and design expertise. I recom-mend to future designers that they choose a focus or a specific problem to solve by using the advise of the available experts and their own criteria; then, they should focus on that, and avoid trying to solve everything with one product. One step at a time, and it might be at the end a big step for the victims.

I want to thank to all those who helped me and supported me: Xavi, Miguel, María, Miren, Jose, Juanjo, Alejandro, Charo, Sara, Aaron, Jasmin, survey respondents, Sander, Nicolaas, Mark, Eelko, Moniek, Pantelitsa, Nayyar, Naazlin, and of course and in special to Ana Laura, Elmar, Jan, and Rolf.

AppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendicesAppendices

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H. Appendices

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29. Original assignment29.1. Project Red Cross; disaster gear made from discarded textilesGeneral

Discarded clothes and textiles can be re-used and processed into sheets. These sheets can be pressed into a variety sorts and can be used for different purposes. The material and its processes are rather new and are both in need of develop-ment. During the last 3 years several researches have been conducted on the material and its opportunities. Specifications like sound absorption are available, as well as the possible process techniques that enhance the freedom in shapes.

KICI is involved in the project called Textiles4Textiles (T4T) in which a machine is developed that can sort discarded (non-rewearable) textiles on material and colour. This offers the possibility to extract the right materials from a large amount of textiles that formerly was considered to be waste. The sorting machine will be operational in March 2011 at the earliest.

The Red Cross ships goods to disaster areas and offers people shelter as soon as possible. Current shelters are manufac-tures in Asia and are currently made from cotton. Reinforced plastic sheets are commonly used items to improve tents.

The Red Cross, KICI, Enviu and the TU/e are interested in designing cheap products made from discarded textiles that can be used in disaster areas.

Problem definition

Currently used tents, floor mats and plastic sheets are in need of improvement. Especially in colder areas (e.g. recent floods in Pakistan) the available tents do not provide enough warmth to the people that were hit by the disaster.

The Red Cross and KICI would like to research the feasibility of using discarded textiles for producing floor mats/tiles, tent canvas, inner tent, sheets (replacement for the reinforced plastic sheets) and sleeping bags. This research should show the feasibility of using the (certain) discarded textiles in the above mentioned products and should show the required manu-facturing process, costs of manufacturing, optimal material composition, etcetera. The products should be lightweight and the volume has to be kept to a minimum for transport. We will look for the optimum cost-benefit ratio.

Goal

The goal is to design and develop upgrade equipment from discarded textiles, to be used by the Red Cross. The equip-ment has the primary goal to keep people warm that were struck by a disaster.

The first idea is to design (primarily from textile waste)

•A crate that can be unfolded into floor mats/tiles, •A tent •Inner tent compartment/room dividers •Sleeping bags

Role in the project Red Cross

In this project the Red Cross is the expert partner and first user of the project, they have years of experience with emer-gency shelters. The Red Cross has experience with the currently used products and knows what are the problems with the current shelters. Their knowledge will be valuable input for the list of requirements for the products. Also in the testing phase employees and volunteers of the Red Cross will be asked to actively participate.

TU/e

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The TU/e is working close together with the Dutch Red Cross when researching the possibilities of the material. The TU/e will be researching the feasibility of using the available material, will design products and will be involved in testing, implementation and production. It will research how we can make optimal use of the properties of the material and turn this into a product that is useful for the Red Cross.

TexLab

KICI and ENVIU (TexLab) are the coordinators of this project. They will offer the first technical details, test material, designs and contacts with producers. KICI and ENVIU are well known with the material and have experience with testing and experimenting with it. KICI is dedicated to find new opportunities with non-wearable clothing and is (financially) sup-porting the Red Cross. In relation to the TU/e TexLab will focus not so much on the technical fine tuning of the material but will it focus on the designs of the products. How the material can be best be used to increase the situation of the victims best.

Matching TexLab The aim of TexLab is to found start-ups together with its network. This project has been initiated by the KICI together with The Red Cross. The Red Cross involved the TU/e as they worked together in many former projects. In order to make this project a success several partners have to be involved that are able to do the sorting of the textiles in order to get the required materials and organisations that work on the actual manufacturing of the products. The process has to be in control first in the Netherlands. Later on TexLab and its partners will deal with scaling up the manufacturing as well as with stock keeping.

TexLab’s main added value is:

•Knowledge about textiles •Network•Designing for humanity (low cost products with high social impact) •Media and PR

TexLab can involve its network mainly in the designing of low cost products that have the highest possible social impact. In order to attract subsidies TexLab can focus on the media and PR.

Market potential

TexLab will be involved in a to be set up organisation that produces and stores these products and sells it to the Red Cross and in the future to other help organisations as well. The first impression of the market size can be derived from last years’ disasters. After Haiti’s disaster the Red Cross and other organisations placed 200.000 tents to temporarily house 1 million homeless people. The same types of tents are used during the floods in Pakistan that made 4 million people homeless. These tents are not made for colder environments and in case of Pakistan these tents need to be upgraded in order to keep the victims warm enough to endure the colder nights. In some cases families have to live in tents for more than a year.

After a disaster, victims have to be helped quickly. As these amounts of products needed take a long time to produce, these disaster aid products need to be stores in warehouses of the Red Cross or UN.

Sustainability

The social impact of this project can be very large. The project aims for a social and environmental win-win situation by processing waste into new low-cost aid products. With simple products we aim for improving the living situation of vic-tims of disasters as much as possible. The social impact as well as the environmental impact has a very high potential.

Innovation

The first rough calculations around the feasibility to process textile waste into low-costs disaster aid products, are positive. It is a challenge to increase the quality of life as much as is possible with simple products.

Media and PR

As two problems are solved at the same time, this project has the potential to create a lot of attention. By diminishing our amount of waste and increasing the quality of life at the same time all ingredients are there for the press to take up this story.

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30. Project Mind-map

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Figure 79.Project Mind-map

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The Movement is made up of nearly 100 million members, volunteers and supporters in 187 National Societies. It has three main components 102:

International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC)

The International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC), is an impartial, neutral and independent organisation whose exclu-sively humanitarian mission is to protect the lives and dignity of victims of war and internal violence and to provide them with assistance.

During situations of conflict, the ICRC is responsible for directing and coordinating the Movement’s international relief activities. It also promotes the importance of international humanitarian law and draws attention to universal humanitar-ian principles.

International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC)

The International Federation of Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies (IFRC); is a global humanitarian organisation, which coordinates and directs international assistance following natural and man-made disasters in non-conflict situations. Its mission is to improve the lives of vulnerable people by mobilising the power of humanity.

The IFRC works with National Societies in responding to catastrophes around the world. Its relief operations are combined with development work, including disaster preparedness programmes, health and care activities, and the promotion of humanitarian values.

National Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies

There are 186 National Red Cross and Red Crescent Societies around the world. This network forms the backbone of the International Red Cross and Red Crescent Movement supporting the IFRC. Our costumer, the Nederlandse Rode Kruis (Dutch Red Cross) is one of this national societies.

Each National Society is made up of volunteers and staff, who provide a wide variety of services, ranging from disaster relief and assistance for the victims of war, to first aid training and restoring family links. They act locally, but also interna-tionally when it is required by the IFRC.

31. Red Cross Structure

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32. Disasters definitions

HAZARDS

RISKRISK

GOVERNANCE

ADAPTATION

Vulnerability intervention

SOCIETY

VULNERABILTYEXPOSURE

RISK

MANAGMENT

Temporal

Natural/Social events

Capacity to anticipate

Exposurereduction

Hazardintervention

Fragility/susceptibility

reduction

Resilence implemetation

LACK OF RESILIENCE

SUSCEPTIBILTY AND FRAGILITY

INTERACTIONS/COUPLING

Physical

Ecological

Social

Economic

Cultural

Institutional

Spatial Capacity to cope

Capacity to recover

32.1. Disaster framework

Figure 80.Disasters framework Source: MOVE 103

32.2. EMDAT definitionsHere are exposed some definitions of disasters’ types, more definitions can be found in EM-DAT glossary. 104

•Geophysical: Events originating from solid earth•Meteorological: Events caused by short-lived/small to meso scale atmospheric processes (in the spectrum from minutes to days)•Hydrological: Events caused by deviations in the normal water cycle and/or overflow of bodies of water caused by wind set-up•Climatological: Events caused by long-lived/meso to macro scale processes (in the spectrum from intra-seasonal to multi-decadal climate variability)•Biological: Disaster caused by the exposure of living organisms to germs and toxic substances•Earthquake: Shaking and displacement of ground due to seismic waves. This is the earthquake itself WITHOUT second-ary effects. An earthquake is the result of a sudden release of stored energy in the Earth’s crust that creates seismic waves. They can be of tectonic or volcanic origin. At the Earth’s surface they are felt as a shaking or displacement of the ground. The energy released in the hypocenter can be measured in different frequency ranges. Therefore there are different scales for measuring the magnitude of a quake according to a certain frequency range. Those are: a) surface wave magnitude (Ms); b) body wave magnitude (Mb); c) local magnitude (ML); moment magnitude.•Tsunami: (« wave in the port » in Japanese): Waves advancing inland. A tsunami is a series of waves caused by a rapid displacement of a body of water (ocean, lake). The waves are characterised by a very long wavelength and their ampli-tude is much smaller offshore. The impact in coastal areas can be very destructive as the waves advance inland and can extend over thousands of kilometres. Triggers of a tsunami can be: earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, mass movements,

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meteorite impacts or underwater explosions.•Flood: Significant rise of water level in a stream, lake, reservoir or coastal region•Drought: Long lasting event; triggered by lack of precipitation. A drought is an extended period of time characterised by a deficiency in a region’s water supply that is the result of constantly below average precipitation. A drought can lead to losses to agriculture, affect inland navigation and hydropower plants, and cause a lack of drinking water and famine.•Volcano: (Volcanic eruption) All volcanic activity like rock fall, ash fall, lava streams, gases etc. Volcanic activity de-scribes both the transport of magma and/or gases to the Earth’s surface, which can be accompanied by tremors and eruptions, and the interaction of magma and water (e.g. groundwater, crater lakes) underneath the Earth’s surface, which can result in phreatic eruptions. Depending on the composition of the magma eruptions can be explosive and effusive and result in variations of rock fall, ash fall, lava streams, pyroclastic flows, emission of gases etc.•Epidemic: Either an unusual increase in the number of cases of an infectious disease, which already exists in the region or population concerned; or the appearance of an infection previously absent from a region.•Insect infestation: Pervasive influx and development of insects or parasites affecting humans, animals, crops and mate-rials.•Wildfire: It describes an uncontrolled burning fire, usually in wild lands, which can cause damage to forestry, agricul-ture, infrastructure and buildings. Fire in forested/bush areas e.g. California, Australia.

32.3. Aftermath levels

Aftermaths levels: 105

•Casualties: The death toll related directly with the disaster.• Direct victims: The people affected directly by the disaster requiring immediate assistance, or with substantial material losses. • Direct damages: This category consists of damage to assets that occurred right at the time of the actual disaster. • Indirect losses: This effect refers essentially to the flows of goods and services –expressed in current values– that will not be produced or rendered over a time span that begins after the disaster and may extend throughout the rehabilita-tion and reconstruction periods.• Macroeconomic effects: They reflect the manner in which the disaster modifies the performance of the main econom-ic variables of the affected country. Quantification of macroeconomic effects is usually done for the national economy as a whole, but similar exercises can be conducted for disasters affecting smaller areas or regions.

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33. Disasters statistics33.1. Disaster historical occurrenceTrends in the last years, sources: EM-DAT 02 and Global Conflicts Trends 106

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Natural disaster summary 1900-2009 (linear-interpolated smoothed lines)

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Technological disaster summary 1900−2009 (linear−interpolated smoothed lines)

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World armed conflicts summary 1950−2010

Biological

Climatological

Metereologycal

Hydrological

Geophysical

Homeless peopleAffected people

Disasters types trends (1989-2011)

Disasters occurrence

Insect infestation (B)

Epidemic (B)

Wildfire (C)

Extreme temperature (C)

Drought (C)

Storm (M)

Mass movement wet (H)

Flood (H)

Mass movement dry (G)

Volcano (G)

Earthquake (seismic activity) (G)

33.2. Disaster types occurrenceNatural disasters occurrence classified by type of disaster.

Data extracted from EM-DAT. 15

Figure 81.Disaster trends and nature (Sources: EM-DAT and Global Conflicts Trends)

Figure 82.Natural disasters trends

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33.3. Top 30 countries with most homeless victims Victims by 100.000 inhabitants from 1989 to 2011. The countries that are highlighted in blue are a potential target for winterized solutions due to their climate.

CountryTotal home-

less Population (By

2007) 108

Homeless by 100.000 inhabit-

ants 107Climate classification 108

Sri Lanka 3.194.601 21.129.000 15.120 Tropical monsoon; northeast monsoon (December to March); southwest monsoon (June to October)

Laos 1.000.000 6.678.000 14.975 Tropical monsoon; rainy season (May to November); dry season (December to April)

Haiti 994.412 8.925.000 11.142 Tropical; semiarid where mountains in east cut off trade winds

Chile 1.624.613 16.454.000 9.874 Temperate; desert in north; Mediterranean in central region; cool and damp in south

Philippines 5.392.624 92.681.000 5.818 Tropical marine; northeast monsoon (November to April); south-west monsoon (May to October)

Pakistan 9.258.890 167.762.000 5.519 Mostly hot, dry desert; temperate in northwest; arctic in north

Benin 437.175 8.295.000 5.270 Tropical; hot, humid in south; semiarid in north

Somalia 493.200 9.559.000 5.160 Principally desert; northeast monsoon (December to February), moderate temperatures in north and hot in south; southwest monsoon (May to October), torrid in the north and hot in the south, irregular rainfall, hot and humid periods (tangambili) between monsoons

Korea Dem. P Rep 1.209.289 23.479.000 5.151 Tropical; marine, hot and humid, moderated by trade winds

Viet Nam 4.312.584 86.117.000 5.008 Tropical; hot, humid; more moderate in highlands

China P Rep 59.121.398 1.330.045.000 4.445 Extremely diverse; tropical in south to subarctic in north

Madagascar 879.621 20.043.000 4.389 Tropical along coast, temperate inland, arid in south

Bangladesh 6.035.763 153.547.000 3.931 Tropical; mild winter (October to March); hot, humid summer (March to June); humid, warm rainy monsoon (June to October)

El Salvador 272.300 7.066.000 3.854 Tropical; rainy season (May to October); dry season (November to April); tropical on coast; temperate in uplands

Sudan 1.462.130 40.218.000 3.636 Tropical in south; arid desert in north; rainy season varies by region (April to November)

Papua New Guinea 189.900 5.932.000 3.201 Tropical; northwest monsoon (December to March), southeast monsoon (May to October); slight seasonal temperature variation

Malawi 386.009 13.932.000 2.771 -

Mozambique 586.490 21.285.000 2.755 Tropical to subtropical

Cuba 314.424 11.424.000 2.752 Tropical; moderated by trade winds; dry season (November to April); rainy season (May to October)

Central African Rep

97.404 4.435.000 2.196 Tropical marine; warm, rainy summers (May to October) and cool, relatively dry winters (November to April)

Algeria 715.120 33.770.000 2.118 Arid to semiarid; mild, wet winters with hot, dry summers along coast; drier with cold winters and hot summers on high plateau; sirocco is a hot, dust/sand-laden wind especially common in summer

Cambodia 295.805 14.242.000 2.077 Tropical; rainy, monsoon season (May to November); dry season (December to April); little seasonal temperature variation

Azerbaijan 165.900 8.178.000 2.029 Semiarid steppe

Ecuador 269.813 13.928.000 1.937 Tropical along coast, becoming cooler inland at higher elevations; tropical in Amazonian jungle lowlands

Mauritania 55.852 3.365.000 1.660 Desert; constantly hot, dry, dusty

Congo 63.500 3.903.000 1.627 Tropical marine; rainy season (November to May)

Peru 465.196 29.181.000 1.594 Varies from tropical in east to dry desert in west; temperate to frigid in Andes

Togo 89.874 5.859.000 1.534 Tropical; hot, humid in south; semiarid in north

Turkey 1.095.486 71.893.000 1.524 Temperate; hot, dry summers with mild, wet winters; harsher in interior

Colombia 685.700 45.014.000 1.523 Tropical along coast and eastern plains; cooler in highlands

Table 8.Top 30 countries with more victims in natural disasters

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33.4. Top 30 countries with more refugees and IDPsRefugees, asylum seekers, internally displaced persons (IDPs), returnees (refugees and IDPs), stateless persons, and others of concern to UNHCR by country/territory of asylum, end of 2010 109

Country/territory of asylum

Total population of concern

Pakistan 4.041.642

Colombia 3.672.478

Dem. Rep. of the Congo 2.366.035

Sudan 1.958.524

Iraq 1.824.962

Somalia 1.489.862

Afghanistan 1.318.019

Syrian Arab Rep. 1.307.918

Iran (Islamic Rep. of) 1.075.163

Nepal 891.319

Myanmar 859.403

Kenya 751.196

Germany 670.462

Thailand 649.430

Azerbaijan 596.846

Country/territory of asylum

Total population of concern

Uganda 585.253

Côte d'Ivoire 563.660

Chad 529.090

Yemen 508.355

Jordan 453.074

Sri Lanka 440.323

Georgia 362.228

Latvia 327.027

Serbia (and Kosovo) 312.961

Kyrgyzstan 304.169

China 301.108

United Rep. of Tanzania 272.789

United States 270.859

United Kingdom 253.235

France 250.394

33.5. Disasters comparison. Chile vs Haiti

Chile Earthquake 110 Haiti earthquake 111

Date and time 27 February 2010, 03:34 local time 12 January 2010, 16:53 local time

Magnitude and depth 8,8 Mw; 35 kilometres 7,0 Mw; 13 kilometres

Epicentre location Maule region, (325 km south of Santiago de Chile, Chile’s capital)

Léogâne (25 km west of Port-au-Prince, Haiti's capital)

Death toll 562 222.570

Homeless victims 800.000 1 to 2 million

Total number of affected 2.671.556 3.700.000

Total damage, 000 US$ 30.000.000 8.000.000

GPD per capita, US $ 16.172 1.164

Raised funds 69.652.999 3.591.035.385

Table 9.Top 30 countries with more refugees and IDPs

Table 10.Comparison of 2010 earthquakes

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33.7. Money distribution by cluster in Pakistan Floods of 2010Compiled by UNOCHA on the basis of information provided by appealing organisations. 113

Rapid Response Plan requirements and beneficiaries

Cluster Requirements ($) Targeted beneficiaries per cluster

Health 45,911,379 Services will be provided in areas with a total catchment of approximately five million potential beneficiaries, including:- children under five: 792,755 - women of child-bearing age: 1,984,189 - elderly 187,476

WASH 68,070,486 Approximately 2.44 million people to be provide a full WASH package.

Food Security 173,940,784 Food assistance and emergency livelihoods support for up to 2.75 million flood-affected people.

Shelter/NFI 66,452,014 Initial target of 273,919 families whose houses are damaged or destroyed and in need of shelter support.

Logistics, and Coordina-tion

2,385,006 Partners and the broader humanitarian community in Pakistan.

TOTAL 356,759,669

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Nar

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Mya

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008

Flo

ods

Paki

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2010

$495 $70 $46 $3,2033.6. Funding comparisonsThe coordinating organisations need to make an appeal for funding, and they receive according with what is collected. Some extreme cases are Haiti earthquake and Pakistan floods in 2010 both. Six months after the Haiti earthquake, the emergency appeal was 64 per cent funded, and the interna-tional community had pledged more than 10 billion of Dollars in immediate and long-term assistance; while for the Pakistan appeal of 2 billions, after 6 months was barely half-founded. 112

Figure 83. Disasters funds comparison (Source: Oxfam)

Table 11.Funding appeal by clusters for Pakistan floods (Source UNOCHA)

165

Appendices

Figure 84.Köppen-Geiege map of Asia

34. Climates34.1. Köppen-Geige climates classificationClimate groups: 114

Group A: Tropical/megathermal climates, characterised by constant high temperature (at sea level and low elevations) all twelve months of the year have average temperatures of 18 °C or higher. They are subdivided in tropical rainforest and savanne climate.

Group B: Dry (arid and semiarid) climates, characterised by the fact that precipitation is less than potential evapotran-spiration. They are subdivided in steppe and desert, depending on the precipitation level. There is a smaller subdivision considering the latitude, meaning that high latitudes have a year temperature average lower than 18ºC.

Group C: Temperate/mesothermal climates, they have an average temperature above 10 °C in their warmest months, and a coldest month average between −3 °C and 18 °C. They are subdivided in humid temperate and humid subtropical. Also here can be found the subcategories of oceanic and mediterranean climate.

Group D: Continental/microthermal climate. These climates have an average temperature above 10 °C in their warmest months, and a coldest month average below −3 °C. They are subdivided in cold dry or cold humid, and transsiberian.

Group E: Polar climates, these climates are characterised by average temperatures below 10 °C in all twelve months of the year. They are subdivided in tundra and ice cap climate.

34.2. Asian climate map and disaster occurrenceDetailed map of climates areas in Asia and the countries with higher rates of homeless victims

B-Dry and cold

C-Temperate

D-Continental

E-Polar

Calid

Highest rate of homeless victims (1980-2011)

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34.3. Asian countries with higher disaster occurrenceVictims by 100.000 inhabitants from 1989 to 2011. The countries that are highlighted in blue are a potential target for

winterized solutions due to their climate. 107

Total number of home-less

Homeless by 100.000 inhabitants

Population

Laos 1.000.000 17.068 5.859.000Sri Lanka 3.194.601 16.553 19.299.000Maldives 36.849 12.042 306.000

Philippines 5.392.624 6.079 88.706.300Pakistan 9.258.890 5.266 175.829.000

North Korea 1.209.289 5.083 28.196.000Vietnam 4.312.584 4.936 87.375.000

Taiwan (China) 105.800 4.566 2.317.032China 59.121.398 4.357 1.357.022.986

Bangladesh 6.035.763 3.804 158.665.000Cambodia 295.805 2.048 14.444.000Azerbaijan 165.900 1.810 9.165.000

Turkey 1.095.486 1.486 73.722.988India 16.368.580 1.447 1.131.043.000

Tajikistan 73.241 1.087 6.736.000Kyrgyzstan 57.706 1.085 5.317.000

Yemen 208.450 1.006 20.727.063Nepal 253.425 899 28.196.000

Indonesia 1.710.168 738 231.627.000

Table 12. Asian countries with more homeless victims and their climates (Source: EM-DAT)

34.4. Cities’ annual average temperaturesThe main city’s temperature of the targeted countries before are here checked to see which countries are indeed the best focus. These are the average temperatures in the last ten years (2001-2011), the temperatures above 18ºC are high-lighted in blue, and the cities with more than four months with an average below 18ºC are the main target cities, and therefore country. 115

167

Appendices

LAOSVIENTIANE

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

22 28 7 ND

25 30 20 ND

27 32 22 ND

29 33 25 ND

28 32 25 ND

28 31 25 ND

28 31 25 ND

28 30 25 ND

27 31 25 ND

27 30 23 ND

25 29 21 ND

22 27 17 ND

26,3 30,3 21,7 ND

SRI LANKAKOTTE

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

26 ND ND 85

26 ND ND 63

27 ND ND 112

28 ND ND 252

28 ND ND 335

27 ND ND 195

27 ND ND 130

27 ND ND 95

27 ND ND 165

26 ND ND 358

26 ND ND 309

26 ND ND 153

26,8 187,7

MALDIVESMALE

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

28 30 25 76

28 30 26 51

28 31 26 74

28 31 26 132

28 31 26 216

28 30 26 173

28 30 26 147

28 30 25 188

28 30 25 244

28 30 25 221

28 30 25 201

27 29 25 231

27,9 30,2 25,5 162,8

PHILIPPINES

MANILA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

JanuaryFebruaryMarchAprilMayJuneJulyAugustSeptemberOctoberNovemberDecemberTotal average

26 30 21 2026 31 22 1027 32 22 1029 33 24 3029 33 25 12028 32 25 26027 31 24 40027 30 23 36027 31 23 34027 30 23 19027 30 23 13026 30 22 60

27,2 31,1 23,1 160,8

PAKISTANISLAMABA

D

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

10 15 5 50

12 17 7 50

17 21 12 60

23 28 17 50

28 33 22 40

31 36 25 30

29 32 26 250

28 31 25 250

27 31 22 90

22 28 16 20

16 22 10 10

11 17 6 40

21,2 25,9 16,1 78,3

NORTH KOREA

PYONGYANG

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

-6 -1 -10 10

-2 1 -7 10

3 8 -1 20

10 16 5 40

16 21 11 60

21 25 16 70

24 27 20 250

24 28 20 230

19 23 14 110

12 17 7 40

4 8 --- 40

-2 1 -6 20

10,3 14,5 6,3 75,0

VIETNAMHANOI

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

16 18 14 ND

17 19 15 ND

20 22 18 ND

24 26 21 ND

27 30 25 ND

29 32 26 ND

30 32 26 ND

29 31 26 ND

28 31 25 ND

25 27 22 ND

21 24 18 ND

18 21 15 ND

23,7 26,1 20,9 ND

TAIWANTAIPEI

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

16 18 12 92

16 18 13 136

18 21 15 167

21 25 18 157

25 27 21 210

27 31 24 297

29 33 25 239

29 32 25 276

27 30 23 245

24 26 21 107

20 23 17 69

17 20 14 74

22,4 25,3 19,0 172,4

CHINALHASA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

-2 6 -10 ---

--- 8 -7 10

3 10 -3 ---

8 16 1 ---

11 18 4 20

15 22 8 60

15 21 10 120

14 20 9 80

13 19 7 60

8 16 1 10

2 11 -6 ---

-1 7 -9 ---

7,8 14,5 0,4 51,4

CHINABEIJING

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

-3 1 -8 ---

--- 3 -5 ---

6 11 --- ---

13 19 8 10

20 25 13 30

24 29 18 70

26 30 22 220

25 29 20 170

20 25 15 50

13 18 8 10

5 9 --- 10

-1 2 -5 ---

13,5 16,8 8,6 71,3

CHINASHANGHAI

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

4 7 1 40

5 8 2 60

8 11 5 80

15 18 11 90

20 23 16 100

23 27 20 170

28 31 25 140

27 30 25 130

23 26 20 130

18 22 15 60

12 16 8 50

6 10 2 30

15,8 19,1 12,5 90,0

CHINAXI’AN

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

--- 4 -4 6

2 8 -1 10

8 14 3 26

14 20 8 46

19 26 13 60

25 32 18 53

27 32 21 93

25 31 20 83

19 25 15 103

14 19 9 58

7 12 2 27

1 6 -3 6

14,6 19,1 8,4 47,6

Figure 85.Asian cities temperatures 1. (Source: Weatherbase)

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BANGLADESH

DHAKA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

19 24 14 ---

22 26 17 20

26 30 22 50

28 31 25 110

28 31 26 260

28 31 27 350

28 30 27 390

29 31 27 310

28 30 26 250

27 30 25 160

24 28 20 30

20 25 16 ---

25,6 28,9 22,7 193,0

CAMBODIAPHNOM PENH

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

26 31 21 ---

27 32 22 10

28 33 23 30

29 35 24 70

28 33 24 140

28 32 24 140

28 32 24 150

28 32 24 150

27 31 24 220

27 30 24 250

26 30 23 130

25 30 21 40

27,3 31,8 23,2 120,9

AZERBAIJAN

BAKU

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)


3 ND ND 343 ND ND 216 ND ND 21

11 ND ND 2017 ND ND 1322 ND ND 625 ND ND 425 ND ND 721 ND ND 2016 ND ND 3211 ND ND 306 ND ND 3213,8 ND ND 20,0

TURKEYANKARA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

-2 1 -6 ND

--- 4 -5 ND

4 10 -1 ND

9 15 3 ND

13 20 6 ND

17 24 9 ND

20 27 12 ND

20 28 12 ND

16 24 8 ND

11 18 3 ND

5 10 -1 ND

--- 4 -3 ND

11,3 15,4 3,1 ND

INDIANEW DELHI

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

14 20 8 20

17 22 11 20

22 28 16 10

28 35 22 10

32 38 26 10

33 38 28 60

30 33 27 200

30 32 26 200

29 33 25 120

26 32 20 10

20 27 13 ---

15 21 9 10

24,7 29,9 19,3 60,9

INDIABANGALOR

E

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

21 26 16 ---

23 28 18 ---

26 31 20 10

27 32 22 30

27 31 22 110

24 27 20 70

23 26 20 100

23 26 20 130

23 27 20 170

23 26 20 150

22 25 18 60

21 25 17 10

23,6 27,5 19,4 84,0

INDIACALCUTTA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

19 25 13 ---

22 28 17 20

27 32 21 30

30 35 25 40

30 34 26 110

30 32 26 300

29 31 26 330

28 31 26 260

28 31 26 290

27 31 24 110

24 28 19 30

20 25 14 10

26,2 30,3 21,9 139,1

TAJIKISTAN

DUSHANBE

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

4 9 --- 20

5 10 1 60

10 15 5 110

14 20 9 110

19 26 13 60

24 32 17 10

27 35 19 ---

25 34 17 ---

21 30 12 ---

15 23 7 30

9 15 3 40

5 10 --- 50

14,8 21,6 10,3 54,4

TAJIKISTAN

DUSHANBE

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

4 9 --- 20

5 10 1 60

10 15 5 110

14 20 9 110

19 26 13 60

24 32 17 10

27 35 19 ---

25 34 17 ---

21 30 12 ---

15 23 7 30

9 15 3 40

5 10 --- 50

14,8 21,6 10,3 54,4

KYRGYZSTAN

BISHKEK

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)


-3 --- -8 ND-2 1 -7 ND3 8 --- ND

12 17 7 ND17 22 11 ND22 28 16 ND25 31 18 ND23 30 17 ND18 24 11 ND10 16 5 ND3 8 --- ND-1 2 -5 ND

10,6 17,0 6,5 ND

YEMENSANA’A

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

16 22 10 ND

18 23 12 ND

20 24 15 ND

20 24 16 ND

22 26 18 ND

23 28 19 ND

24 28 20 ND

23 27 19 ND

22 26 18 ND

18 23 13 ND

16 22 10 ND

15 21 10 ND

19,8 24,5 15,0 ND

NEPALKATHMAN

DU

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

10 15 4 10

12 17 6 10

15 21 10 30

19 25 13 30

21 26 17 100

23 26 20 200

23 26 21 370

23 26 21 320

22 25 19 180

19 23 15 50

15 20 9 ---

11 16 5 10

17,8 22,2 13,3 119,1

INDONESIA

JAKARTA

Average (ºC)

Maximum (ºC)

Minimum (ºC)

Precipitation (mm)

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

November

December

Total average

26 28 23 ND

26 29 23 ND

27 30 23 ND

27 31 24 ND

27 31 24 ND

27 31 23 ND

27 31 23 ND

27 31 23 ND

27 31 23 ND

28 31 24 ND

27 31 24 ND

27 30 23 ND

26,9 30,4 23,3

Figure 86.Asian cities temperatures 2. (Source: Weatherbase)

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Figure 87.Disaster assistance methods. (Source: UNOCHA)

35. Disaster relief

35.1. Assistance methodsThere are 18 assistance methods 116 for disaster relief and reconstruction according to the United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (UNOCHA). The main focus is the material methods, although it is interesting to combine other methods in the solutions to have a deeper impact on the recovery.

18 assistance methods

4 labour methods

3 material methods

9 support methods

2 quality assurance methods

Directlabour

Communitylabour

Contraxt labour Self-help

General ItemsShelterconstruction items

WASHItems

Cash

Localinformationcentres

Marketinterventions

Environmentaland resourcemanagementInsurances,loansand guarantees

Return andtransit items

Vouchers

Advocacy,legal and administrative

Infrastructureand settlementplanning

Supervision andtechnical expertise

Capacitybuilding

Assessment Search and rescue

Forecast andwarning

Emergency relief

Rehabilitation Reconstruction Ongoing development

Ongoing development

Ongoing development

Disasteralert

Response Recovery

Days/weeksHours/days

time

activ

ities

Months

35.2. Activities timeline in disaster reliefThere are two main stages in disaster relief, Response and Recovery. In every stage there are different activities as the priorities of them change with the time. 117

Figure 88. Activities timeline in disaster relief (Source: World Health Organisation)

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35.3. Cross cutting issuesAgeIsolation and physical weakness are significant factors aggravating vulnerability in older people in disasters or conflict, along with chronic health, mobility problems, and declining mental health. Also children and young people are prone to the harmful impact of vulnerability in certain situations, such as malnutrition, exploitation, abduction and recruitment into armed groups and fighting forces, sexual violence and lack of opportunity to participate in decision-making.

GenderHistorically, women and girls are typically more vulnerable than men and boys, specially in BOP communities. Families with a women in head might need special care in masculine societies, and equality should be ensured.

HIV/AIDSDisasters may lead to increased HIV vulnerabilities and risks due to separation of family members and breakdown of com-munity cohesion and of social and sexual norms regulating behaviour. They may no longer have access to HIV interven-tions such as prevention programmes or treatment.

Disable peoplePersons with disabilities face bigger risks in disaster situations and are often excluded from relief and rehabilitation processes. They are a diverse population including children and older people, whose needs cannot be addressed in a ‘one size fits all’ approach. Humanitarian responses, therefore, must take into consideration the particular abilities, skills, resources and knowledge of individuals with different types and degrees of impairments.

(Source: The Sphere project) 118

35.4. Climate considerationsConsiderations for NFIs selection and shelter construction in winter climates, and shelter priorities. 119

Considerations forGeneral Household Support Items

Protection from colde.g. warm clothing Protection from wind &

snowe.g. sufficient structureInsulation from ground

e.g. mattressInsulation from grounde.g. raised floor

Allow temperature controle.g. created sealed warm room

Food preparation and hygienee.g. cook and utensils

Heating and cookinge.g. stove and fuel

Considerations forHousehold Shelter Construction Support Items

ClothesBlankets

Shelter

Shelter priorities

Structures must take the snow load

Shelter must also consider hot summers

Mattress Wind proofing Stove Flooring Wall and roof insulation Figure 89. Winter priorities in shelters

(Source: IASC)

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Appendices

35.5. NFI items Shelter types

•Emergency shelters (<1 years)

The emergency shelter is often easy to transport and quick to build, in an emergency event, rapid response can be perform. This does, however, leads to degradation of the shelter quality. The living conditions are often far from the ideal ones, and the shelter has a very limited life span. There are several kind of emergency shelters, but they normally have the shape of a tent.

•Transitional shelters (1 years - 10 years)

Shelter which provides a habitable covered living space, and a secure, healthy living environment with privacy and dignity to those within it, over the period between natural disaster and achievement of durable shelter solutions 120

The trend is to start with transitional shelters that can become eventually permanent solutions by upgrading them.

•Permanent shelter (>10 years)

This type of shelters is a permanent long-lasting solution, with the main objective that the victims can have a normal life again. Their main characteristic is the use of sustainable materials that are not dismantled after its construction.

Common NFIs 43

•Blankets and quilts

There are three main types of blankets and quilts:

•Woven blankets, which are made of wool, new fibres, or recycled fibres from second hand clothes•Fleece blankets, which are made of pure polyester. They are as efficient as woollen blankets, with better ability to dry, and feel more comfortable when in contact with the skin; and•Quilts, which are made of synthetic material or fibres covered by a synthetic sheet (commonly polypropylene).

In some circumstances sleeping bags may be provided, although it is not common. The Red Cross recommend that it is better to provide good quality blankets than a large number of them.

•Bedding: Mats, mattresses and beds

•Mats made of woven straw or plastic strips•Mats based on closed cell foam (locally procured)•Mattresses made of foam or composites of materials (locally procured)•Beds with steel or wooden frames

Mats, beds and mattresses help keep people warmer at night by reducing conductive heat loss to the ground. Mattresses and foam mats have a large packed volume and are relatively expensive to transport, therefore they are procured locally. Plastic materials are preferred over natural ones due to its better preservation.

•Cook sets

Cook sets, also known as kitchen sets, are combinations of pots, pans, plates, cups and cutlery for the food preparation and serving needs of a household. They are commonly designed to enable cooking and serving food for five people, and they come packed in boxes.

•Stoves and fuel

Stoves can have two purposes, cooking and heating, and they are normally different. Although there are some combined ones. They entail some problematic, as the access to fuel is limited, it might lead to be resold if the distribution is not ap-propriate; or to the deforestation of the area. The key domestic energy types are listed below:

•Biomass, including wood, charcoal, animal dung, sawdust, briquettes;•Fossil fuels, including kerosene, diesel, gas, coal•Electricity•Other energy sources, including solar power and biogas. These require levels of community education and involve-ment that may not be possible in emergencies.

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•Plastic sheeting as a covering

Also known as plastic tarpaulin, tarp or polythene sheet. It is a sheet of strong, flexible, waterproof material. It should always be considered as a possible material for distribution along with rope, wire or nails and materials from which a shelter could be built. It is a very widely used item due to its enormous versatility and its low price. They can be used as shelter, as extra insulation, as flooring, shadow and many more imaginative solutions.

•Corrugated Galvanised Iron (CGI)

It is also a not expensive, versatile and widely used material. Mainly for the construction of roofs in transitional shelters. They are provided locally and not in the emergency phase, but in the reconstruction phase.

•Bricks, blocks and binders

These are the most common construction materials for transitional or permanent shelters, and they are provided locally or even produced in situ. This are materials that required skilled workforce and normally delay the process, so they are not suitable for emergency situations.

•Fixings: rope, wire, nails, metal strapping

They are the forced complement to plastic sheeting and CGI, the organisations have to ensure the availability of them, also considering the potential fixings works.

•Tools

There are many different types of tool commonly used and distributed in relief operations. Different tools will be available in different locations, so tool kits may need to be adapted locally. It is worthy to invest in good quality, so all the logistic process is valuable.

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36. Interviews and communications36.1. Mark MulderDr. at Delft University of Technology, Department of Biomechanical Engineering(Volunteer after the 2010 Floods in Pakistan. Reconstruction works)Outcomes from a conversation took place on 08/04/2011:The area is a flat dessert that got flood.Their houses were made of mud, the ones of the poorest people. They can also easily remade them, with pieces of trees, very primitive. Some other people has stone houses, but not many.It is not cold, 20º to 30º. There is a lot of water, easy to keep it dry, wind proof.It’ll be nice if what they provide is He is not sure if they would use sleeping bags, normally they receive blankets.They don’t accept occidental standards.They use the chaarpai to sit and to sleep. The floor is just the ground, with dust and sand.They make a house with whatever they find.In emergency situations they have to carry things all the time they move or they leave.They usually don’t own the land where they build, they normally work for the owners and they build there.They shelters they were building were one small room for the whole family.When there is a disaster the taxes and regulations are open so all the aid can arrive, but when time goes by, that is back, making slower the supply of aid kits.

36.2. Eelko BrouerCoordinator international relief at The Netherlands Red Cross SocietyOutcomes from conversation on 9th of May of 2011Current solutions for fast response: Imported tents or purchasing of local construction materials (often plastic sheets).Imported tents: The main problems are the space for storing (protection against rot and deterioration), the ventilation, the insulation, their short life causing waste. But in other hand they are fast deployable.Local solution: The problem is the time to set them up, and the advantage the logistic costs.The Red Cross desire is to expand the choices, a set of solutions, they believe that a universal solution is not possible.Anchoring in shelters is normally a problem, because the ground is not level. Different focus depending on phase: Emergency(shelter) vs Recovery(cultural) They are interested on reducing logistical costs for the imported items.

36.3. Corinne Treherne

Head of the Shelter Team of IFRCOutcomes from interview on 22nd of September of 2011 done by Moniek van Erven through phone:General:Work together with ICRC and UNHCRInnovation centre sets the specifications for the productsHave nothing to do with procurement: sales and logistics, production etc -> they make specs for procurement websiteThey are thinking of insulation, winterisation etc, but it’s a long process, and they partner with UNHCR, goes slowlyThey can change the specs themselves! From day to dayImportant: if our products makes it to the catalogue, we need to give away the exact specs, so that other suppliers can make the product too, no monopoly position!

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They don’t perform the test, they set the specs, and we send them our results.Test for flame resistant of floors: CPAI84It is a long process, possibly 1 yearNeed:Insolation for tents, especially floors (people also sit on floors)How to winterized emergency shelter – could be a winterisation kit, additional to shelter kitRequirements for floor:Flexible, suitable to any type of situationThermal insolation: higher than what we currently haveFlame resistant (extremely important, we work with stoves inside tent)Duration > 1 yearMain constraints:PriceWeightLogisticsWhy do these products not exist yet?-> 2005 first situation in Pakistan when this type of product needed, there was no funding for research, and not enough people in their centre.Price of tent now 350 euro, say for winter it is an additional 10%Current R&D project: how to bring weight of tent down from 165 kg to 40 kg

36.4. Nayyar HashmeyAuthor of the blog “Wonders Of Pakistan”Question formulated in his blog:On October 9, 2011 at 5:30 pm Ana Lopez said:Thanks so much, this is a great article, you can really get a picture of life in rural Pakistan. I’m doing a research for NGOs on disaster relief, and this can help me a lot getting an idea of how life could be before a disaster happens. But there is question that I cannot find the answer, how do they warm up their dwellings in winter? I mean the ones made out of mud, and without electricity supply. Thanks again.On October 9, 2011 at 8:07 pm Dr. Nayyar Hashmey said:We appreciate your visit Anna Lopez, and are glad that you liked our post ‘Life in a Pakistani Village’.Coming to your question that how do they warm their houses in winter. Well they’ve a unique and natural way of heating their dwellings. Since mud walled houses by itself are quite weather compatible, they, therefore remain cool in summer and relatively warm in winter. But if its too cold, theirs is an ingenious method of warming the houses. They put an iron tray and burn cow dung cake in the tray. The dung slowly incinerates and provides a cosy warm effect to the sur-rounding in the room where the villagers mostly enjoy their bed room comfort.Email questioning on 9th of October of 2011:1. What kind of skills can have the local people? Is it common that they know about carpentry and/or sewing? A. They do have such skills as carpentry, sewing, iron smithy, weaving fabrics in the traditional hand made style/s, but what they lack is financial support.2. I have seen that the most common furniture is the manjaa (wooden bed with strips, I think its called like that). Is it so easy to get one? Or is there people who would like to have but they don’t have?A. You are right; the common bedding in our rural areas is a manjaa or the manji. Bigger size is called manja and the small size called manji. They do have this sort of thing almost every where in our village side but after the devastating earthquake in 2005 followed by so many disasters like last years ferocious floods and now the torrential rains caused floods in Sindh have played havoc with the lives of our rural folk. Presently these people do need immediate help. They don’t have their manjas now and they don’t have any occupation.3. Are they (manjaa) usually upgraded? In terms of changing the straw strips into a better quality material (see picture) or adding sleeping mats..A. As regards upgrading these manjas, I don’t think they need it because these manjas themselves are quite robust in construction and they last for years.4. How do they normally sleep in there? Do they use fabrics or blankets on the base and/or to cover themselves? Do they sleep all together (family), or just couples? A. They normally sleep on these manjas by putting mats woven of dried date/palm leaves and those with relatively bet-

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ter income use khais “a thick cotton woven matting” . In summer when there is cool breeze they use the khais to cover themselves and in winter they either use blankets or the quilts. They normally sleep all jointly, but couples sleep separately. If they do have a separate enclosed space well and good, otherwise they do some makeshift arrangement.

36.5. Linked in discussion on “Disaster Researchers and Disaster Management Professionals” groupDiscussion link: http://lnkd.in/SGXh3i

Scarf donations to winter areasHello, I am a industrial design student and I am developing concepts for winter disaster relief. One of the products that has arisen is a hooded scarf to protect victims from cold (link below). It will be sold through the internet with the formula buy one, give one: buyers will buy one for themselves and they will be donating another one to a recent disaster in a cold area, where winter supplies are needed, along with economical support to take care of the delivery. The scarf is conceived to be used also to sleep with it, to cover head and chest from cold.

It would be really helpful if you can give me your feedback and help me with your opinions.

Right now I would like to know if you think it could be useful, and if the agencies would accept this kind of material.

Thank you very much!

Vivian A. Wasson, M.S., LSIT

• Ana, I think the idea you present is beautiful and USEFUL. I suspect it will meet a human need that has not to this time been met in any organized way. I’m thinking that a nuclear winter would exhaust the supply. I have a friend who knits all the time - she has friends who do the same because they like to knit and want to make items both useful and beautiful... try exploring yahoo groups related to knitting... contact local emergency management agencies with your idea... ask to register as a resource provider... let the Red Cross know that your network wants to provide scarves... disaster relief in the USA is tiered - local, district, state, regional, and national. relief logistics are handled at these various levels.

Ana López Triguero

• Thank you Vivian! I’m trying to contact the Red Cross to see their opinion, and I am already in contact with manufactur-ers to see prices. But the opinion of experts like you is very important and useful to me! Thanks again!


• You are welcome! When responding to disasters I think of the Hierarchy of Needs which Maslow presented many years ago. An incident becomes a disaster when people are deprived of very basic needs: at the base of the hierarchy are the biological and physiological needs i.e. the basic life needs - air, food, drink, shelter, warmth, sleep, etc; when these needs are met, the next level are safety needs i.e. protection, security, order, law, limits, stability, etc. Developing concepts for winter disaster relief. is worth pursuing and promoting world wide. I encourage you to stay the course!


• Hallo Ana,

Has the Red Cross been contacted? Has the Red Cross responded? Winter is over here in the Northern Hemisphere - just getting ready to begin in the Southern Hemisphere. Disasters can and do happen anywhere - I hope your scarf donation idea gets established before people have to suffer from cold as a result of a disaster.

Vivian A. Wasson

Steve Photiou

• Ana,

I really like your idea. And the formula is nice, too.

Try to push ahead actively, especially with Red Cross/ Red Crescent, as well as with local groups.

Is there a link about this item?


• Ana, Thanks to the comment Steve Photiou made. I remembered that I have a connection with an official with Red Cross/Red Crescent Societies. I shared a link to this discussion with Raiza just a few minutes ago.

Vivian A. Wasson

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37. Materials37.1. Sorting fractionsIn Table 13 there is presented the percentages of different materials founded in clothing sample. It was sorted by hand, not using IdentiTex, therefore the fraction other is the predominant, many garments did not have labels and the composi-tion was unknown. 05

Fibre type Kg %

Other 688 28,10%

100% Acrylic 441 18,00%

100% Cotton 411,5 16,80%

50% Cotton 50% Acrylic 188 7,70%

100% Wool 135 5,50%

30% Wool 70% Acrylic 125 5,10%

50% Wool 50% Acrylic 119,5 4,90%

100% Polyester 113,5 4,60%

Fibre type Kg %

80% Wool 20% Nylon 81,5 3,30%

60% Cotton 40% Acrylic 41 1,70%

80% Cotton 20% Nylon 36,5 1,50%

80% Viscose 20% Nylon 31,5 1,30%

50% Cotton 50% Wool 10 0,40%

100% Nylon 8,5 0,30%

100% Viscose 20,5 0,80%

TOTAL 2451

Table 13.Sorting fractions37.2. KICI materials portfolioLoose fibres

The loose fibres as sub-product can be used in different applications, mainly pressed to composed filler material. KICI is not looking applications for the loose fibres without more processing, but it can be consider already as a material.

Non-Woven

Textile fibres can be joint by putting small fibres together in the form of a sheet or web and using different bonding tech-niques. There are many different techniques for bonding the fibres depending of its nature, here are just mentioned the used ones for textiles blends.

Needlepunching/Needlefelting

•Recycled non-woven fabrics or felts

This felt-like fabrics are obtained by interlocking them with serrated needles such that the inter-fibre friction results in a stronger fabric. They can be obtained in many different sizes, textures, and thickness. This is the first step for all the non-woven fabrics, it is the first binding process.

Thermal bonding

•Binding rolls

A thick and fluffy material can be obtained through roll presses and heat application, with felt mats (previously needlepunched) based in mixed textiles blends, and polyester as biding material,. Insulation building material is obtained this way. 121

•Thermal pressing plates

The felt mats can be pressed and heated resulting into cardboard-like plates. They can have different compositions,

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mixing every kind of blends, and they can be bond with or without extra materials. Materials

•Without extra bonding material*

The synthetic part of the blend performs as bond when the heat us applied.

•Cotton polyester blends•Cotton acrylic blends•Wool acrylic blends

•With extra bonding material (Composites)*

To add new properties to the felt mats, or to have a stronger binder, extra thermo polymers can be added. They can improve the strength, add thermoformability, rigidness and more qualities to be researched.

•Thermoplastics: PET, PLA, ABS, etc.•Thermosets: Epoxy, Polyester...

Woven or knittedThreats and yarns

The untangled fibres can be used for weaving new textile cloth. This can be done with any kind of fibre, but the purer it is, the better quality it would have.

•Woven fabrics•Knitted fabrics•e.g.: Blankets (relief blankets); Jeans 4 Jeans;

*Processes in research phase, no commercial applications jet.

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38. Prototypes

38.1. MantooThe taken steps to sew Mantoo are exposed, and the pattern. Pictures of the process and the results are also shown.

10

46

24

fabric direction

95

A1

B1

B2

B1

B1

B1

B2

B2

C

C

C

C

A2 75 x 100 cm

2520

1

2

3 4

5

6

Figure 90. Mantoo sewing steps

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Figure 91. Mantoo prototype pictures

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Figure 92. Mantoo pictures

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38.2. Tiletex - Tiles

First Trials

To prototype the tiles, a heated pressed has been used, (Figure 93). It has capacity of 300ºC, 40cm x 40cm and 60T.

Firstly some trials were done to find out which combination of temperatures and materials was the optimal one. Several materials were tried and combination of them:

•Metisse insulation mats of 5cm and 10cm of thickness.•Polyester mat 100%, white, 2cm thick•Acrylic mat 100%, grey, 1,5cm thick•Metisse mat, grey, 10cm thick, 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other•Metisse mat, grey, 5cm thick, 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other•Loose fibres of 50% wool and 50% acrylic•Assorted garments

The optimal results were obtained with the mats, in single or sandwich composition, with a maximal temperature of 220ºC, a pressure of 150kN and pressure time of 20 seconds. In Figure 93 the results are shown.

Obtained tilesAfter the first trials, some tiles are done to test their insulation properties. In the Table 14 the results and the parameters used are exposed:

Material characteristics . Test# Test Type Configuration Material Composition Thickness Dimensions Weight Colour Processed Pressure Tempe. up Temp. down Pressing Time

Tile A Pure material Single 2 layers Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 134g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat 150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sTile B Pure material Single 3 layers Metisse (x3) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 15 cm 20x20cm 227,4g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat 150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20s

Tile C SandwichOuter layers Acrylic mat (x2) Acrylic 2 cm 20x20cm 116g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sInner layer Metisse 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 5 cm 20x20cm 67g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Tile D SandwichOuter layers Acrylic mat (x2) Acrylic 2 cm 20x20cm 116g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sDouble inner layer Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 121g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Tile E SandwichOuter layers Polyester mat (x2) Polyester 1.5 cm 20x20cm 54,5g White Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sDouble inner layer Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 117,1g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Figure 93.Left: Heated press Right: First tiles tests

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Figure 94.Top: Before and after of tile 5 Bottom: Tiles’ results

Table 14.Tiles parameters

AB

C

4

5

Material characteristics . Test# Test Type Configuration Material Composition Thickness Dimensions Weight Colour Processed Pressure Tempe. up Temp. down Pressing Time

Tile A Pure material Single 2 layers Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 134g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat 150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sTile B Pure material Single 3 layers Metisse (x3) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 15 cm 20x20cm 227,4g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat 150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20s

Tile C SandwichOuter layers Acrylic mat (x2) Acrylic 2 cm 20x20cm 116g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sInner layer Metisse 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 5 cm 20x20cm 67g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Tile D SandwichOuter layers Acrylic mat (x2) Acrylic 2 cm 20x20cm 116g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sDouble inner layer Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 121g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Tile E SandwichOuter layers Polyester mat (x2) Polyester 1.5 cm 20x20cm 54,5g White Non-woven mat

150kN 220ºC 220ºC 20sDouble inner layer Metisse (x2) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 10 cm 20x20cm 117,1g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

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Final tile

The final tile is created mainly according to the results on insulation. It is a sandwich panel made with a layer of polyester for outer side, inner layer of Metisse material of 15 cm and an bottom layer of PLA.

Material characteristics .

Configuration Material Composition Thickness DimensionsTop Layer Polyester mat Polyester 1.5 cm 30cmx30cm

Inner Layer Metisse (x3) 70% cotton, 15% Acrylic, 15 % other 15 cm 30cmx30cm

Bottom layer PLA film PLA 2 cm 30cmx30cm

Material characteristics . Test

Weight Colour Processed Pressure Tempe. up Temp. down Pressing Time35g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

100kN 220ºC 180ºC 15s287,5g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

23g Grey (multicolour) Non-woven mat

Table 15. Final tile parameters

These tiles are tested to find out their insula-tion capacity, and the results can be found in the following appendix. A PLA film is tried later to improve and protect the tiles’ surfaces. PLA is chosen due to previous experiences performed by KICI. It shown that the optimal temperature is 180ºC and not much pres-sure is needed, 40 KN is enough and 5 seconds of time. In Figure 95 the first trials with PLA are shown.

Figure 95.PLA layer over the tiles

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39. Testing39.1. Insulation test 1For Tiletex, several tiles has been created as it has been shown in appendix 38.2. To see how they insulate, several tests are performed. Firstly, a qualitative and quantitative test using a heated plate and the tiles laying on top of it, in direct contact. This is tests is to see in a first approach if they seem to be a good insulator, and which configuration of textiles performs bets. Later, a second test is performed to obtained the R-value. Four thermocouples are used to see the tem-perature difference among the surfaces, one in the bottom surface that touches the plate, and three on the top surface, during half an hour. (Figure 96) It was performed with a room temperature of 23ºC. How the five tiles are obtained and their characteristics is explained in the previous appendix 38.2. All of them reach around 50ºC of temperature difference, a very positive first impression, but in the next insulation test, the needed R-value is estimated and the tiles are tested to check that they have the minimum R-value needed. The chosen tiles to make a second test are B, C and D; A and E are discarded due to lack of enough material, and A shows the worse performance, and E because is very similar to B.

Tile BTile BTile BTile BTile BTile B

61ºC 26ºC 25ºC 23ºC 36ºC74ºC 25ºC 25ºC 24ºC 49ºC78ºC 26ºC 26ºC 25ºC 52ºC83ºC 27ºC 28ºC 28ºC 55ºC

Tile CTile CTile CTile CTile CTile C


Tile Et

Tile ETile ETile ETile ETile EPlate T 1 T 2 T 3 Tav

0m10m20m30m


Tile At

Tile ATile ATile ATile ATile APlate T 1 T 2 T 3 Tav

0m10m20m30m


Tile Dt

Tile DTile DTile DTile DTile DPlate T 1 T 2 T 3 Tav

0m10m20m30m


30ºC

40ºC

50ºC

60ºC

0m 10m 20m 30m

DB

E

C

A

t Plate T 1 T 2 T 3 Tav

0m10m20m30m

t Plate T 1 T 2 T 3 Tav

0m10m20m30m

Tav

39.2. Insulation test 2In this test it is desired to compare and approximate the R value of the tiles. How to calculate the R-value is explained in chapter 10.5. In this case, the objective is to insulate one person sleeping in a 1.5m2 surface, to obtained a temperature difference of 20k (from -4ºC to 16ºC). The estimated R-value for TileTex is 0,40m2K/W, considering that a human body emits 72W while sleeping, and using the calculations explained in chapter 10.5. But this value is missing many factors as reflective heat transfer, or the power derived from the ground, therefore, the required total R-value is extracted from an extensive existing research on winterized shelters 122. According to this research, an insulated floor for a shelter in extreme conditions should have 0.8 m2K/W ≤ Rt ≤ 1.1 m2K/W. To make the tests, a material with a similar insulation value is used, and the performance will be compared. In this case, the minimum value is equivalent to polystyrene foam with a thick-ness of 3 cm, this calculation is done knowing the thermal conductivity of the foam and the thickness 123.

Figure 96.First insulation tests

R= = 0,4 m2K/W

λ= 0,035 W/mK

=0,86 m2K/W

0,8 m2K/W ≤ Rt ≤ 1,1 m2K/W

Theoretical required R-value:

Total required R-value:

EPS foam thermal conductivity:

3cm. EPS foam R-value:

1,5m2*20k72W

R= =dλ

0,03 m0,035 W/mK

Figure 97. R-value

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To make the test, it is required a power source, in this case a heated plate, it has a theoretical power of 6W. The power source is place inside of a 12 cm side cube done with the material to test, and the cube is hanged so there is no contact with other surfaces to avoid heat losses, in a room with a negligible wind speed. Four thermocouples are placed on the material surfaces, two inside and two outside (Figure 98). And the temperatures are recorded during an hour. The first test is performed with Polystyrene foam, and the other tests are compare in performance with that test, to measure their insulation power. The tiles that are tested are B, C and D in first place. The result are slightly lower that the foam results, therefore another tile (final tile) is done using a lower pressure to provide a thicker surface. This tile show a better performance in the text and is chosen as final tile, the configuration of this tile is explained in appendix 38. The results of tiles B,C, D the foam and the final tile are shown in Table 20. The graph is done excluding the first 20 minutes, when the temperature starts growing in a proportional scale.

Figure 98.Second insulation test

Table 16.Insulation tests in foam box Table 17.Insulation tests in tile B

Tile B - Metisse 15cm

t T1 T2 T3 T4 ΔT13 ΔT24 ΔTav

0m 43ºC 45ºC 27ºC 29ºC 16ºC 16ºC 16ºC

4m 47ºC 48ºC 27ºC 29ºC 20ºC 19ºC 20ºC8m 50ºC 50ºC 27ºC 30ºC 23ºC 20ºC 22ºC12m 52ºC 52ºC 27ºC 30ºC 25ºC 22ºC 24ºC16m 55ºC 53ºC 27ºC 30ºC 28ºC 23ºC 26ºC20m 57ºC 54ºC 27ºC 30ºC 30ºC 24ºC 27ºC24m 58ºC 56ºC 27ºC 31ºC 31ºC 25ºC 28ºC28m 60ºC 58ºC 28ºC 31ºC 32ºC 27ºC 30ºC32m 61ºC 59ºC 28ºC 31ºC 33ºC 28ºC 31ºC36m 61ºC 60ºC 29ºC 31ºC 32ºC 29ºC 31ºC40m 62ºC 60ºC 29ºC 31ºC 33ºC 29ºC 31ºC44m 63ºC 61ºC 29ºC 32ºC 34ºC 29ºC 32ºC48m 64ºC 62ºC 30ºC 32ºC 34ºC 30ºC 32ºC52m 64ºC 63ºC 30ºC 32ºC 34ºC 31ºC 33ºC56m 65ºC 63ºC 31ºC 33ºC 34ºC 30ºC 32ºC60m 65ºC 64ºC 31ºC 33ºC 34ºC 31ºC 33ºC

Foam box




T1: Thermocouple placed inside on the side wall

T2: Thermocouple placed inside on the top wall

T3: Thermocouple placed outside on the side wall

T4: Thermocouple placed outside on the top wall

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Table 18.Insulation tests in tile C Table 19.Insulation tests in tile D

Table 20.Insulation tests in final tile

Figure 99.Insulation tests results

Tile C - Acrylic + Metisse 5cm + Acrylic




Final tile - Polyester + Metisse 15cm + PLA



4m 46ºC 47ºC 27ºC 28ºC 19ºC 19ºC 19ºC8m 48ºC 49ºC 27ºC 29ºC 21ºC 20ºC 21ºC12m 49ºC 51ºC 27ºC 30ºC 22ºC 21ºC 22ºC16m 52ºC 53ºC 27ºC 30ºC 25ºC 23ºC 24ºC20m 55ºC 57ºC 27ºC 31ºC 28ºC 26ºC 27ºC24m 58ºC 58ºC 28ºC 31ºC 30ºC 27ºC 29ºC28m 60ºC 61ºC 29ºC 31ºC 31ºC 30ºC 31ºC

Tile D - Acrylic + Metisse 10cm + Acrylic




15,0ºC

20,0ºC

25,0ºC

30,0ºC

35,0ºC

40,0ºC

20m 24m 28m 32m 36m 40m 44m 48m 52m 56m 60m

Final tile - Polyester + Metisse 15cm + PLA


32m 62ºC 64ºC 29ºC 31ºC 33ºC 33ºC 33ºC36m 64ºC 66ºC 29ºC 31ºC 35ºC 35ºC 35ºC40m 66ºC 66ºC 30ºC 32ºC 36ºC 34ºC 35ºC44m 66ºC 66ºC 30ºC 32ºC 36ºC 34ºC 35ºC48m 67ºC 67ºC 30ºC 32ºC 37ºC 35ºC 36ºC52m 67ºC 67ºC 31ºC 32ºC 36ºC 35ºC 36ºC56m 68ºC 68ºC 31ºC 32ºC 37ºC 36ºC 37ºC60m 68ºC 68ºC 31ºC 32ºC 37ºC 36ºC 37ºC

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39.3. Water absorption and fire resistanceOne of the man requirements of the tiles is that they can stand high temperatures (200ºC). PLA has a melting point of 150ºC-160ºC, and a glass transition temperature of 60ºC therefore 124, if heat is applied it will start deforming and even-tually burning. It is tested by approaching the material to a candle, and it started to burn in less than 3 seconds. Therefore it is discarded as material for the top side. In the other hand, another requirement is that it is water repellent, mainly in the lower side, so, it is chosen for the bottom side.

Now that PLA is discarded for the top side, Polyester repels water better than acrylic and the blend. Regarding the heat resistance, it varies depending the polyester type, but normally higher that 200ºC. In this case, it performed well when it was approached to a candle, it started melting after 6 seconds.

Figure 100.Water absorption and fire resistance tests

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40. Mantoo questionnaireHere the questions that were asked in an online questionnaire about Mantoo are presented. It also included some pic-tures of the product.

Please, think on this hypothetical case:

Imagine there has been a earthquake in some area, leaving thousands of families without shelter during winter.

The Red Cross is working to provide tents, stoves and blankets for the victims, but they need more support. Mantoo can help them to save lives; by covering and protecting head and chest we can avoid the spread of respiratory diseases.

If you buy a Mantoo through an online store, you will receive a Mantoo at your home in few days, and you will be donating another Mantoo to the victims.

You will also obtained a tracking number to follow your Mantoo, and you will know when your Mantoo has arrived to the disaster area. 100% of the benefits go to the manufacturing and delivering of Mantoo to the victims.

If you can answer to the following questions honestly you will be a great help, and you might contribute to make this real. We just want to know your opinion and improve the project with your feedback, it won’t sup-pose more than 5 minutes.

Age

Gender

• Male• Female

Occupation

How much do you think it is a reasonable price for Mantoo?

The price will cover the manufacturing and delivering costs of two Mantoos, one for the buyer and one for the victims, along with economical support for the Red Cross for distribution costs.

Would you buy it?

• Yes• Yes, but I would prefer to make a donation in a different way• No, I don’t like it• No, I don’t think it would be useful for the victims• No, but I still would like to donate a Mantoo for the victims• Other:

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Do you find it attractive and wearable?

• Yes, I would wear it myself• Yes, but I wouldn’t wear it myself• No, I don’t like it• Other:

How would you find Mantoo more attractive and wearable? And what would you change (aesthetically)?

Shape, colours, material...

Do you think it is warm enough for winter?

• Yes, I would wear it for protecting myself from cold.• No, it doesn’t seem enough warm.• Other:

Do you think it can be useful for disaster victims in a winter area?

• Yes• No• Other:

Would you like to buy it online?

• Yes, I think it is easier and cheaper than in physical shops• No, I prefer to see Mantoo before buying it• No, I always prefer to buy in physical shops• Other:

Regarding the tracking system, would that be a guarantee for you to know that your donation is real?

• Yes• No, that does not ensure anything to me, but I don’t care and I will buy it anyway• No, I never trust that my donations arrive to the victims and I need more proofs• Other:

Mantoo is distributed with the Red Cross collaboration, does that fact make you trust more in the initiative?

• Yes, I just trust on big NGOs because they have more experience.• Yes, I normally trust NGOs, I don’t care if they are big or small.• No, I prefer small NGOs because I think my donations are more useful for them• Other:

All of your comments are appreciated, so please, write here any remark or observation that you may have about Mantoo, or about anything you would like to share.

195

Appendices

The answer of the 37 respondents are here in groups, some of them have been manually clustered because they were open questions.

¿How much do you think it is a

reasonable price for Mantoo?

€ 20,00 € 30,00 € 25,00 € 15,00 € 10,00 € 35,00 € 6,00 € 5,00 € 8,00 € 16,50 € 18,00 € 40,00 Average

# 8 6 5 5 4 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 € 19,18

Age

#

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 32 37 60 NR Average

1 1 2 4 4 4 6 5 1 2 2 1 1 3 27,6765

Occupation Designer Student ArchitectBusiness

Developercivil

engineerEngineer Researcher

phd student

Self-employed

trainee

unem-ployed

landscape designer

CEO NR

# 13 8 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 0 1 2 2

Gender Male Female NR

# 14 23 0

¿Would you buy it? Yes

No, but I still would like to donate a Mantoo for the

victims

Yes, but I would prefer to make a

donation in a different way

No, I don't think it would be useful for the victims

No, I don't like it

Maybe; it like the innovative design but would not wear one

myself

# 20 6 5 3 2 1¿Do you find it attractive and

wearable?

Yes, I would wear it myself

Yes, but I wouldn't wear it myself

No, I don't like itI don't really like it, but maybe I would wear it sometimes

# 21 12 3 1How would you find

Mantoo more attractive and wearable?, and

what would you change (aesthetically)?

More colors

Material and color

NRChange color

Including gloves

Color and customization

Color and patterns

Color and patterns

and material

More formal

Shape Simplicity Stripes

# 12 7 7 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

¿Do you think it is warm enough for winter?Yes, I would wear it for

protecting myself from cold.No, it doesn't seem

enough warm.DK

# 29 5 3

Regarding the tracking system ¿Would that be a guarantee for you to know that your donation is real?

YesNo, I never trust that my donations arrive to the victims and I

need more proofsDK

# 28 6 3Mantoo is distributed with the Red Cross

collaboration, does that fact make you trust more in the initiative?

Yes, I just trust on big NGOs because they have more

experience.

Yes, I normally trust NGOs, I don't care if they are big or small.

No, I prefer small NGOs because I think my donations

are more useful for them DK NR

# 16 9 5 4 3

¿Do you think it can be useful for disaster victims in a winter area?

Yes No DK

# 27 4 6

¿Would you like to buy it online?

Yes, I think it is easier and cheaper than in

physical shops

No, I prefer to see Mantoo before

buying it

No, I always prefer to buy in physical

shopsDifferent options

# 23 10 2 2

Observations of the respondents•Great initiative! Hope my answers will be useful, good luck!•Nice idea, but need to be more than that, you can buy a lot of cheap clothes everywhere. People is just buying something because they are morally supposed to.•I found it a very interesting initiative, but most probably it is going to be manufactured somewhere in Europe (Holland?). It is a perfect work to be done in the place it is supposed to be used. Why?: a. to promote local economy b. materials and manufacture technics will be adapted to the region c. if it is manufactured according to the tradition and materials of the place it makes is more attractive for the “occidental costumer” Good luck!•It´s a good idea! You can make a hooded poncho too!•I wonder what’s the USP or the main argument to sell it, is it because of the donation (then the product itself is not that important)? or maybe you want to make the product itself attractive for people to buy it because they like it, and then be even more pleased because it’s for a good cause? I think if you buy something for yourself, you have to like it, you won’t buy something you are not sure about only because it helps somebody by giving them a scarf (Which I believe not to be a high priority item in a disaster situation). I personally think that the idea is good, but not ambitious enough. What about a fair manufacturing? there’s nothing about it, what if instead of the scarf people are given the material and are taught to weave it? That seems like giving more to them, learning some skill, and more importantly, giving them something to do. Many of these people will stay inactive for weeks, since there might not be much to do in a disaster area (depending on the disaster and the situation), or some members of the family will certainly not be able to help in reconstruction, this could be a good way to make them feel useful... just some thoughts•hopefully this will be in store soon! Keep up the good work ANR!•you can sell that maybe in places like Zara, or big stores like doNRtion , example http://www.msf.es/pastillascontraeldolorajeno/

ReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferencesReferences

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