textile collectionsamples 41-45

bengalinemoiresatinshantungtaffeta

sample 41bengaline

fiber content: any fiber, most silk or MF filament in the warp, often cotton or blends in the weft, some made of all wool or flax

yarn:most have filament warp, finer & more numerous than spun weft which is of cotton or blends

fabric construction:close plain weave, resulting in a prominent, allover crosswise rib—the warp covers over the weft giving the surface a silky character unless the warp is spun

weights, uses:top weight to heavy, firm fabrics with a pleasing texture—used for dresses, skirts, slacks, suits, coats, trim, neckwear, accessories & upholstery

names: from Bengal, India

sample 42moire

fiber content: silk or MF filament (acetate, polyester, nylon, rayon) may have cotton in weft

yarn:for traditional moire, fine filament warp yarns are used, many more than weft—weft yarns may be nearly the same size as the warp or heavier

fabric construction:a crosswise rib plain weave; usually a taffeta or faille but can be a moire grosgrain; wavy pattern in fabric like woodgrain or watermark in paper (moire is also called watered silk)

traditionally produced by pressing together two layers of cross-rib fabric—the ribs are not exactly aligned and so flatten each other at random, creating the pattern

weights, uses:top or bottom weight used for dresses, ribbon, trim, lining, curtains, lampshades, luggage and lining

names: French moire, meaning watered

sample 43satin

fiber content: silk or MF fiber

yarn:warp and weft are low-twist filament

fabric construction:warp-face satin weave which puts most of the smooth filament yarns on the face—when both yarns are the same color, fabric is reversible

weights, uses:top or bottom weight, reversible for dresses, dressy suits, loungewear, eveningwear

names: named for the type of weave

sample 44shantung

fiber content: silk or MF fiber

yarn:warp is low-twist filament; weft is slub yarn—typical of wild silk

fabric construction:warp-face plain weave which puts most of the smooth filament yarns on the face with most of the slub yarns on the back—when both yarns are the same color, fabric is reversible

weights, uses:top or bottom weight, reversible for dresses, dressy suits, loungewear, eveningwear

names: named for wild silk

sample 45taffeta

fiber content: silk or MF filament except for slub weft in antique taffeta

yarn:except in antique taffeta, only filament yarn is used, in a close, plain weave—warp and weft are almost the same size but there are many more warp than weft;

fabric construction:close, plain weave that results in a firm, smooth fabric with a very fine crosswise rib that rustles when moved; when made of silk this rustle is called scroop and results from an acid treatment

weights, uses:top weight as a rule, but may be bottom weight; used for dresses, ribbon, trim, lining

name: from Persian tafta, a lustrous silk