COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICEUniversity of Arkansas Division of Agriculture

and U. S. Department of Agriculture,Cooperating C i rc u la r 5 4 3

Techniques for Sewing Tricot

Lingerie

CONTENTS

Characteristics.....................Pattern Selection.................Amount of Fabric Needed . . .Equipment ..........................N otions................................Fabric Preparation...............Cutting Layout.....................Transfer of Markings...........Special Stitching TechniquesSeams ..................................Crotch Construction ...........Elastic A pp lica tion .............Lace A pp lica tion .................Special Edge Finishes.........Pressing................................

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture

The C o o p e ra tiv e Extension Service, U n iv e rs ity o f A rkansa s, is an equ a l o p p o rtu n ity e m p lo ye r. No person

w i l l be d e n ie d th e ben e fits o f o r the r ig h t to p a rt ic ip a te in Extension e d u ca tio n a l p rog ram s

PPC 10M/ 5 73

C. A. Vines, Director

May, 1973

and a c tiv itie s on the g ro u n d o f race, co lor, sex, age, o r n a tio n a l o r ig in .

Issued in fu rth e ra n c e o f C o o p e ra tive E xtension w o rk , A c ts o f M ay 8 and

June 30, 1914, in c o o p e ra tio n w ith th e U. S. D e p a rtm e n t o f

A g ric u ltu re , C. A . V ines, D ire c to r o f Extension Service,

U n ive rs ity o f A rka n sa s D iv is ion o f A g ric u ltu re .

Page.3.3.4.4.4.4.4.5.5.6.6.8101112

T e c h n iq u e s fo r S e w in g

Tricot LingerieBy

W. Jeanette Roberts Extension Clothing Specialist

Home-sewers have turned to the “ under” world of fashion—the world of sewing lingerie. I t ’s fun, i t ’s exciting, and i t ’s easy to do, especially when sewing w ith tricot knits.

CHARACTERISTICS

Tricot knits are popular fabrics for making lingerie. They drape beautifully, feel soft, and come in a variety of solid colors and pretty prints. Since trico t knits are usually made from either 100 percent nylon or 100 percent triacetate, they are strong, resilient, and easy-to-care-for. The tricots can be either sheer or opaque and are available in several different types and weights.

Heavyweight tricots, 50-60 den­ier, are opaque tricots suitable for slips, bras, panties, pajamas, nightgowns, and robes.

Medium and lightweight tricots, 30-40 denier, are s till opaque but are thin enough for some ligh t to pass through.

Sheer tricots, 15-20 denier, are completely transparent and are most often used as decorative second layers for nightgowns and slips or as the backing fabric for lace trims.

Crepe tricots have a pebbled, textured surface and are commonly called “ non-cling” tricots.

Sanitized tricots have smooth, sleek surfaces which resemble woven satin and are most suited for pajamas, nightgowns, and robes.

Stabilized tricots resemble taffeta and should be handled as woven fabrics, since they do not stretch.

Brushed tricots have a soft, napped surface, perfect for night­gowns and robes.

PATTERN SELECTIONA ll major pattern companies

make a few lingerie patterns and are regularly adding more styles and a wider range of sizes to those listed in their catalogs. Fabric shops, mail­order houses dealing in lingerie fabrics and trims, and stores specializing in knits are other sources for lingerie patterns. However, do not overlook the possibility of making your patterns from older, ready-made garments that have been your favorites for f it and style.

Lingerie patterns are sold by body measurements. Full slip, bra, gown, peignoir, and robe patterns are chosen by bust measurement. Half slip, panty, and pettipants patterns are sold by hip measurement.

Some pattern companies sell their patterns by size—small, medium, large, and extra-large. Other pattern

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companies have all sizes marked on a single sheet of paper, thus allowing each person to select her own size from those printed on the pattern.

AMOUNT OF FABRIC NEEDED

Tricot knits come in widths ranging from 60 to 108 inches. Check the back of the pattern envelope to determine how much fabric to purchase.

EQUIPMENTBall-point pins and needles

should be used instead of sharp pointed pins and needles. The rounded points of ball-point pins and needles push the fabric yarns apart instead of puncturing them.

Lingerie thread is preferred, but if it is not available, polyester-cotton thread or nylon thread may be used. Mercerized cotton thread is not recommended since it does not possess the amount of “ give” necessary for sewing stretch or knitted fabrics.

Shears must be sharp enough to cut a clean edge on tricot knits. From time to time, wipe the lin t from the blades. Cut through #00 sandpaper to sharpen.

NOTIONSElastic

Soft elastic is preferred since it is much more comfortable to wear. The special lingerie elastic that has the fluted picot edge makes a more professional looking garment.

However, if the elastic is to be enclosed in waist or leg bands, the picot-edged elastic would not be necessary.

Select 1/2-inch-wide elastic for the waistband and 1/4-inch-wide elastic for the leg bands.

Lace TrimsAlmost any shrink-proof lace can

be used on lingerie. However, stretch lace is better for curved edges since it is easier to manipulate. Non-stretch lace is usually wider and used for straight edges.Shoulder Straps

Both bra and slip straps can be purchased ready-made and color-co- ordinated to your lingerie fabric.

FABRIC PREPARATIONFor best results, pre-shrink all

tricot knits and notions before cutting the fabric. To pre-shrink, wash the fabric and notions in warm water w ith a detergent. Also, use a fabric softener to help reduce any static electricity in the fabric.

Washing the fabric w ill help relax the yarns and remove any excess finishing solutions from the kn it. To dry, gently squeeze out any excess water and allow the fabric to dry on a fla t surface away from direct heat.

CUTTING LAYOUTTo determine the right side of the

fabric, stretch the fabric on the crosswise grain. The kn it w ill curl to the right side.

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Place fabric on table w ith the righ t side up. Do not let any part of the k n it hang over the edge of the table when pinning the pattern to the fabric. The weight of the fabric overhang w ill cause the kn it to stretch, resu lting in a “ too tig h t” f it after construction. T ightly covering a table w ith a firm fabric or a foam-backed fabric w ill help keep the trico t from sliding.

Place the pattern on the fabric so tha t the greatest amount of stretch goes around the body. The greatest amount of stretch follows the crosswise grain, so whenever the pattern arrow says “ stretch,” place the arrow on the crosswise grain.

TRANSFER OF M ARKINGS

Make a ll markings on the wrong side of the fabric. Mark darts, seam allowances, and special construction details w ith ta ilo r’s chalk, ta ilo r’s tacks, or china pencil. Do not use carbon paper and tracing wheel as the carbon w ill show through on the righ t side of the fabric.

I f you prefer, a strip of masking tape can be used to mark construction details. Simply place the tape over the location to be marked, then mark on the tape w ith a lead pencil. The tape can easily be removed w ithout damaging the fabric.

SPECIAL STITCHING TECHNIQUES

Set stitch length regulator on 10 to 12 stitches per inch. Use regular to lig h t pressure and a loose but balanced tension. Check to see tha t the stitches look the same on both sides of the fabric.

To keep from jamming the threads, pull and hold both spool and bobbin threads at the back of the presser foot for at least the firs t inch of stitching.

Stitch slowly; a rapid pace w ill cause skipped stitches.

Either a straight or zig-zag machine stitch can be used. Stitch from the narrow end of the fabric to the wide or from the top to the bottom as in making slips, panties, etc. Keep one hand on the fabric behind the

presser foot to help guide the stitching. Keep the other hand in front of the presser foot to gently stretch the fabric as you sew.

Do not stitch over pins. Stitching over pins can cause skipped stitches as well as snag the fabric.

Do not backstitch. Backstitching w ill cause the fabric to lose stretch and bunch up under the presser foot.

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Pull threads to the reverse side and tie or turn fabric around and sew in the opposite direction for approximately 1/2 inch.

SEAMSSeveral types of seams can be

used in making lingerie. One which closely resembles the seams of commercially-made lingerie is the zig-zag overcast seam. O ther acceptable seams are the double- stitched seam, the French seam, and the welt seam. Some of the newer sewing machines are equipped to sew a “ stretch” stitch—a perfect stitch for making lingerie.

Some patterns allow for a 5/8 inch seam allowance; others allow only 1/4 inch. Be sure you know how much your pattern has allowed for each seam width.Zig-Zag Overcast Seam

Straight stitch on seamline. Then, if the pattern allowed a 5/8 inch seam allowance, trim seam to 1/4 inch. For patterns allowing only a Va inch seam, do not trim seam.

Shorten the stitch-length regula­tor for 12 to 15 stitches per inch and

adjust zig-zag to wide setting. Zig-zag seam, stretching if necessary.

Double-Stitched SeamMachine-stitch the firs t row righ t

on the seam line. Then stitch the second row 1/8 inch away from seam line but w ith in the seam allowance.

This type of seam works best on patterns allowing a fu ll 5/8 inch seam width.French Seam

Pin seams—wrong sides togeth­er. Machine-stitch seam 3/8 inch from cut edge of fabric. Trim seams to 1/8 inch. Turn garment to right side and stitch Va inch from fold of seam allowance.

W elt SeamW elt seams should only be used

on lingerie fabrics that do not stretch.

CROTCH CONSTRUCTION

When making high-quality lin ­gerie, it is nice to have all crotch seams enclosed. To enclose these seams, trim a ll crotch seam allowances to Va inch. Place crotch pieces w ith righ t sides together. Then slip the back section of the panty

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between the two crotch pieces. Match back edge of parity to back edge of crotch. (Note: The wider end of the crotch is toward the back of the panty.) Pin edges of both crotch pieces to edge of back panty.

Machine-stitch a Va inch seam. Machine-stitch a second row of stitching 1/8 inch away from firs t seamline. Turn crotch pieces to righ t side.

Turn panty wrong side out. Lay back of panty face down on table. Front of panty w ill be face up. W ith righ t sides together, pin narrow end of top crotch piece to front of panty. Then bring bottom crotch piece up around the back panty, over the waistline, and down the front panty un til the righ t side of the narrow end of the second crotch piece is facing the wrong side of the crotch seam of the front panty. The front panty should be sandwiched between the two crotch pieces.

Pin seam edges together. Machine-stitch a Va inch seam allowance along crotch seamline. Make a second row of stitching 1/8 inch away from original seamline.

Turn panty righ t side out. Edgestitch open edges of crotch pieces together on each side.

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ELASTIC AP PLIC A TIO NCut elastic in to the lengths

specified in the pattern guide. However, the exact length needed may vary s ligh tly depending on individual body size. I f adjustments are needed for elastic in a casing, deduct two inches from the waist measurement. For top-stitched or stitched-and-turned elastic, deduct three inches. Top-stitched elastic w ill not return to its original length.

When using elastic for bikin is, try on the panties to see where the top edge w ill come. Then measure the hips at tha t exact point. For elastic in a casing, deduct eight inches. For top-stitched and stitched-and-turned elastic, deduct nine inches.

For fu ll panties (briefs), measure around the top of the leg; then cut the elastic tha t exact length. For b ik in i legs, fin ish the waist and try on the garment. Hold the measuring tape around the leg along the edge of the fabric. For elastic in a casing, cut elastic to exact leg measurement. For top-stitched or stitched-and-turned elastic, deduct one inch.

Join ends, of elastic in to a ring by overlapping elastic 1/2 inch. Turn both raw edges in s ligh tly and machine-stitch together.

Using pins as markers, divide the waistline elastic in to four equal sections. Place the seam of the elastic at the center back of the garment,

then match the remaining three pin markings to the side seams and center front.

In pinning leg elastic to a panty, do not divide the elastic into four equal sections, but allow for more ease toward the back of the panty. This w ill insure a more comfortable f it in the back and a less gathered look in the front.

As you sew, stretch the elastic to meet the trico t, then stretch both the elastic and the trico t s lightly more.

In general, there are four basic ways to apply the elastic. Any of these methods are acceptable.

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Elastic in a Fabric CasingThis method is recommended for

longer wear, easy replacement, and for elastic tha t does not match fabric color. The seam allowance should be the w id th of the elastic plus Va inch.

Fold raw edge to wrong side on seamline, then pin. S titch close to raw edge using either straight or zig-zag

machine stitching. Leave a small opening. Insert elastic, overlap ends 1/2 inch, and stitch securely. Close opening w ith hand or machine stitches.

E lastic in a Lace CasingThis method gives a decorative

effect and is used where seam allowances are insufficient for a fabric casing. Use Va inch lace, 1/2 inch elastic, and Va inch seam allowance.

Lap wrong side of lace Va inch over wrong side of garment edge.

Straight or zig-zag machine stitch along bottom edge of lace. Fold lace to righ t side. E ither stra ight stitch or

zig-zag along bottom edge of lace, but leave an opening to insert the elastic. Insert elastic and overlap ends 1/2 inch. S titch securely and close opening.

Top-Stitched E lasticThis is a quick and easy

application. Since the elastic shows, it should match fabric color unless it is used as a trim .

The tension used for stitching trico t seams may not be righ t for stitching elastic to trico t. Make a test as follows: Cut a 4-inch length of elastic and a 6-inch length of trico t (on crosswise grain). Pin elastic to trico t at each end. S titch w ith elastic side up, stretching both elastic and trico t. Tie thread ends securely. Hold both ends, stretch elastic and trico t as much as possible. I f either top or bottom thread breaks, the tension is off and must be adjusted.

Cut seam allowances from the edges where elastic is to be attached. Join elastic ends securely in 1/2 inch seam. Open the seam and sew fla t w ith a rectangle of long stitches on

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elastic and garment edge. Mark off eight equal parts. A t these points, pin wrong side of elastic to right side of garment w ith edges even. Stitch very slowly along lower edge of elastic,

stretching both elastic and tricot. Repeat along upper edge. I f you are using a zig-zag stitch around the leg, make one row of stitches through middle of elastic. Stitches should be half the w idth of the elastic.

Stitched-and-Tumed ElasticThe elastic may be turned to

either the right or the wrong side. A ll cut edges are enclosed. Seam allowances need to equal the w idth of the elastic.

Refer to Top-Stitched Elastic fortest stitching, joining elastic ends, and pinning elastic to fabric. Then, decide on which side you want the elastic. Pin elastic to the opposite

side, w ith the straight edge of elastic exactly at cut edge. Stitch along inner edge of elastic w ith straight stitch, stretching both elastic and tricot. Trim seam allowance close to stitching. Fold elastic to other side.

Use either a zig-zag or straight stitch and sew the straight elastic edge to garment, stretching as before.

LACE APPLICATIONWide lace used at lower hem

edges should be applied to the garment before the side seams of the garment are joined together. This is especially necessary for all A-line slips, nightgowns, and robes. Too, at the top of a fitted garment, the lace should be stitched to the fabric before the fabric sections are joined together.

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Lace is stitched to the fabric w ith either one row of zig-zag stitching or two rows of straight stitching. For a see-through look, m achine-stitch along the inner edges of the lace and then trim away all tricot inside the line of stitching.

For an opaque look, machine- stich along both lace edges, then trim away any excess trico t outside the lower edge of stitching.

Small b its of lace need not be wasted. They can be used as decorative trim for slips, panties, etc.

Lace needs to be mitered at all corners. Pin the lace into place, then form the m iter by making a small dart on the wrong side of the lace. Hand-press da rt to one side.

Top-stitch over the mitered lace corner w ith either a straight or zig-zag machine stitch. Re-pin the lace into position and stitch.

To fix lace trimmed slits, cut off extensions (if any) provided for facing the slits. S titch side seams to point where you want slits to end. Tie threads securely. A t one corner of s lit, place lace w ith bottom edge on marked hemline. Pin all around garment to other corner of s lit, then form m iter. W ith outer edge of lace at marked seamline, continue to pin lace up along the s lit. A t top of slit, fold

lace to form a triangle. Pin lace down other side of s lit to beginning point, then jo in ends in a second miter. For the see-through look, stitch along inside edge. Trim trico t close to stitching except under triangle where reinforcement is needed.

SPECIAL EDGE FINISHESYou m ight prefer some other type

of finish instead of using lace on your lingerie. Other common types of edge finishes include shell edging, French binding, and a rolled hem. A ll are acceptable and can add to a professional look.Shell Edging

Shell edging is a more tailored type of hem finish than lace, but it is an elegant finish for casual lingerie. I t is usually done by hand.

To make a shell edge, trim the hem allowance to Va inch and fold to the wrong side of garment. Take two or three running stitches along the raw edge, then take two stitches over

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the edge of the hem. Pull the thread up tig h t un til a scalloped edge is achieved.

French Binding

A French binding makes an especially nice finish for tailored lingerie. I t is most appropriate as a finish for “ non-cling” slips to be worn under kn it outerwear.

To make a French binding, trim off all seam allowance on edges to be bound. The finished w idth of binding should be no more than Va inch. Cut several strips on the crosswise grain. Each strip should be six times the desired w idth if it is to be hand finished; eight times desired width if finished by machine. Cut each strip as long as the edge or edges to be bound. Strips can be pieced together.

Fold each strip in half lengthwise, righ t side out. Press without stretching. Pin raw edges of folded strip to righ t side of garment, all edges even. Stretching both fabric and strip slightly, stitch through all

thicknesses at a distance from edges exactly equal to finished w idth of binding. Fold strip up and over raw

edges of fabric to wrong side. machine finished, straight s titch (slowly) from right side in or close to binding seam, catching fold under

neath. To finish by hand, slipstitch. fold to stitching line on the wrong side.Rolled Hem

A rolled hem is often used crepe and stabilized trico t garment To make a rolled hem, trim sea allowance to Va inch. Fold in raw edge; 1/8 inch. Slip needle through fold and fasten thread. Take a tiny stitch in garment below raw edge, then slip

needle through fold for about 1/4 inch; repeat. A fter every few stitches, form a ro ll by loosely drawing up the thread.

PRESSING

I t is not necessary to press as you sew when sewing w ith trico t stretch fabric. However, pressing sometimes helps remove the curl that occurred along the seam edges after they were stitched.

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