Kalmbach Books 21027 Crossroads CircleWaukesha, Wisconsin 53186www.JewelryAndBeadingStore.com

© 2017 by Jane Danley Cruz

All rights reserved. Except for brief excerpts for review, this book may not be reproduced in part or in whole by electronic means or otherwise without written permission of the publisher.

Lettered step-by-step photos by the author. All other photography © 2017 Kalmbach Books except where otherwise noted.

The jewelry designs in Dragons, Crystals & Chainmaille are the copyrighted property of the author, and they may not be taught or sold without permission. Please use them for your education and personal enjoyment only.

Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information presented; however, the publisher is not responsible for any injuries, losses, or other damages that may result from the use of the information in this book.

Published in 201721 20 19 18 17 1 2 3 4 5

Manufactured in the United States of America

ISBN: 978-1-62700-400-8EISBN: 978-1-62700-401-5

Editor: Dianne Wheeler Book Design: Lisa BergmanTechnical Editor: Dana MeredithProofreader: Annie PenningtonPhotographer: William Zuback

Library of Congress Control Number: 2016943707

Table of ContentsIntroduction .............................................4

Basics .....................................................103

Acknowledgments ...........................111

About the Author ..............................111

Brooches and Accessories

Eye of the Dragon ring................................... 6

Hammered Scroll pin ..................................... 8

Maid Marion tiara ........................................ 12

Royal Potions pendant ................................ 16

Lady of the Lake armlet ............................... 19

Vassel’s brooch ............................................ 22

Necklaces

Prisoner’s Chain necklace........................... 28

The Chieftan choker .................................... 30

Ancient Dragonfly necklace ....................... 33

Tangled Roots choker .................................. 36

Stonehenge necklace................................. 40

Mystic Crystal necklace .............................. 43

Magic Ring lariat ......................................... 46

Claw and Crystal Torque necklace ............ 49

Fortune Teller’s necklace ............................. 52

Bracelets

Forever Entwined cuff ................................. 56

Mystic Warrior cuff ...................................... 59

Dragon’s Claws bracelet ........................... 62

Stolen Dreams bracelet ............................. 65

Corset cuff ................................................... 68

Blacksmith’s forged bracelet ..................... 71

The Tribal Queen’s Gauntlet bracelet ...... 74

Hobnail wrist wrap ...................................... 78

Earrings Trembling Scales earrings .......................... 82

Orb of the Raven earrings ......................... 84

Lady-in-Waiting earrings ............................ 86

Amethyst Alchemy earrings ...................... 89

Dragon’s Gold earrings .............................. 92

Serpent’s Scales earrings ........................... 94

Tethys earrings ............................................. 96

Chainmaille Bellflower earrings .............. 100

4

I remember those special occasions as a

small child when my mother would get out

her black lacquered jewelry box and let us

examine the beautiful jewelry that had been

handed down to her. Holding those treasures

in my hand, I would fantasize about the men

and women who had once worn this jewelry,

what their lives must have been like, and what

meaning these precious bits of gold and

gems may have had for them.

As I grew older, my taste in jewelry grew bolder.

In college I joined a group of Madrigal singers;

although I wasn’t overly fond of the theatrics

or the music, I was fascinated by the historical

era. However, of most importance was the fact

that the rich brocade and velvet costumes

provided the perfect canvas for my medieval

costume jewelry collection.

Today, it’s so exciting to see fashion magazines

splashing medieval- and fantasy-themed

jewelry across their glossy pages. It’s truly an

era of inspired imagination. Dragons have

stormed onto runways, best-selling books, mov-

ies, and television series. It’s in vogue to adorn

oneself with crosses, swords, Celtic symbols,

and heavy chain. Exclusive fashion and

jewelry designers are incorporating spikes,

leather, natural crystals, and hammered

metal into their high-priced designs —

and you can too!

Most of the projects in this book use tools and

materials you can find at your local craft and

hobby store. I used a wide variety of tech-

niques like wirework, basic stitching, simple

chainmaille, and kumihimo so you’re sure to

find something you like. Where possible, I used

tools you already have, like your fingers or a

pencil, but occasionally you may need to

purchase specific supplies. Explore your own

cache of jewelry findings and craft supplies

as well as the aisles of your favorite craft or

hobby shop.

I hope the jewelry and techniques in this book

will inspire you to create your own fantasy and

medieval jewelry.

Introduction

I’ve had a love affair with jewelry for as long as I can remember.

8

Hammered Scroll pinThe night's dark mist splashes across your face as you charge to the castle. Keep your father's pin tight to your cloak; remember, his final commands must be honored.

• 11” 12-gauge Artistic wire, silver

• 13" 12-gauge Artistic wire, silver

•

• Bench block

• Chasing hammer

• Metal file

• Roundnose pliers

9

a

c

b

d

MATERIALS & TOOLS

InstructionsRing1. Using roundnose pliers and a 13" piece of wire, make an 8mm plain loop (Basics, p. 108) (a). 2. Position the pliers at the base of the plain loop and bend the wire back over

the pliers in the opposite direction, making a larger loop (b).3. Using your fingers, continue to gently bend the wire around the bottom of the plain loop and back up towards the top (c).4. Work as in steps 1–3 on the other end of the wire, mirroring the bends (d).

22

A good vassal serves his lord faithfully, and a generous master richly rewards his subject's fealty. He may even bestow the honor of carrying the kingdom's banner to this trusted liege —a high honor, indeed.

Vassal'sbrooch

28

Prisoner'sChainnecklaceTrapped in the deepest dungeon, a captured rival awaits his fate. He dreams of fleeing to the arms of his beloved in a daring escape. But for now, the executioner's block awaits.

35

g

i

l

m

j

k

h

4. Work as in step 3 until the rope measures 16" long, ending and adding Fireline (Basics, p. 110) as needed.5. Sew through all six beads in the last round twice, pick up a cone, an 80 seed bead, and five 110 copper seed beads (j). Continue through the 80 and five copper 110s to form a ring (k). Retrace the threadpath several times and exit the 80. Sew back down through the cone and the rope. End the thread.6. Thread a needle on the tail, and work as in steps 6 and 7 on this end of the necklace.

7. Open an 8mm jump ring (Basics, p. 109). Attach a beaded loop on one end of the necklace. Close the jump ring (l).8. Open an 8mm jump ring and attach the S-hook and the beaded loop on the available end of the necklace. Close the jump ring.9. Open the 10mm jump ring and attach the dragonfly charm and the necklace (m). Close the jump ring.

46

Magic Ring lariat

The spirit of Merlin embraces your being. Magic rings, stars, and mystic tubes declare your birthright.

56

Forever Entwined cuff

Placing the bracelet upon her wrist, she is wrapped in the finery of her true love's favor. Though he sails the seas, their hearts are braided in eternal devotion.

57

• 6' satin cord, black

• 6' satin cord, copper

• 3' 26-gauge wire

• Premade metal filigree cuff

•

• Flatnose pliers (optional)

• Wire cutters

a

d

b c

MATERIALS & TOOLSInstructionsKnotted braid1. Pair the cords together; fold them in half and tie an overhand knot (Basics, p. 110), leaving a small loop (a).2. Separate the cords into pairs consisting of one black cord and one copper cord each. (For the purposes of these instruc-tions, we will label them "left cords" and "right cords," and each set will be worked together as if they were one cord.)3. With the left cords, make a loop by bringing the cord in toward the center, up and out to the left of your work surface (b).4. Lay the right cords over the center of the loop created in the previous step (c), and bring the right cords out to the left and up under the tail of the left cords (d).

Forever Entwined cuff

65

Stolen Dreams braceletAdorned with the ornaments of far-off lands, the servant refills her master's cup. Though she is bound, they will never break her spirit or steal the untold treasures of her imagination.

71

Blacksmith's Forgedbracelet

Hammered links, formed in the forge by scorching flame, give strength to a knight's chainmaille armor. A blade can not pierce the sturdy mesh, unless aided by a spell, of course ...