http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.com/2018/02/had-great-couple-of-days-with-phil-out.html?m=1

https://theneilmackenzietrust.com/gemma-hendry/

Magalie CASTELIN report: Snow and Ice Climbing – Improvers course

In March 2019, thanks to The Neil Mackenzie Skills Grant 2018, I attended a 5-day Snow and Ice Climbing Improvers course, organized by Adventure Peaks. The course took place in the Western Highlands in Onich, which is situated midway between Fort William and Glencoe. The course was aimed at improving winter climbing skills in the Scottish landscape which requires specific techniques to protect oneself on unbolted walls. This winter was very mild with unstable conditions, ice was not well formed and a lot of snow had fallen. This reduced the number of climbable routes and made the accesses challenging.

On the first day, we headed up to the Stob Coire Nan Lochan on Glencoe to climb the Ordinary Route (IV, 4). This was tough, with a 2.5 hours approach under rain and winds, and a 3.5 hours climb in deep powder snow. Arriving on the Summit Buttress at dusk, we needed to leave the summit quickly to descend before dark. In the foggy landscape hidden by deep snow, we then learned how to retreat using only charts, compass and short visibility landscape reading. The guides did an amazing job providing walking techniques and cheering us on.

On the second day, we climbed the South-West Ridge (180 m, IV, 5) of the Douglas Boulder North-West Face on Ben Nevis. The approach was much shorter and well-marked. The last section gave us the opportunity to review steep snow slopes crossing. The climb offered a spectacular winter scramble and gave us four pitches with amazing views. From the summit of Douglas Boulder, we abseiled into a soft snow filled Ease Gully, and make our way down it. Route.

The third day, we headed to the West Face of Aonach Mor, the UKs eighth highest mountain, and climbed Western Rib (500 m, III+). Despite its proximity to the ski area, the climb offered true wilderness, solitude, and adventurous or spectacular moves, such as walking on very narrow snow shelves and ridges. Although only 500 m high, the route stretched along 2 km. A new skill I learnt here, which might sounds very simple but very important, is how to build your own large snow shelf when arriving at a pitch surrounded by steep powder snow

During the last two days of the class, the weather had become even more mild, and most of the low altitude snowfalls had turned into heavy rain. On the fourth day, we attempted to reach the snow area at the top of Glen Nevis. When we arrived at the snow bed, we were soaked and had used all our spare clothing. Climbing to the top would have been another three to four hours in the field, so we decided to retreat safely. On the fifth day, the rain had not stopped. We went to the Onich Slabs, settled some top rope and reviewed some dry tooling techniques on a nice variety of wet lines.

Taking this class reinforced my climbing and safety techniques on ones of the most notorious Scottish mixed climbing routes. These new skills will enable me to help and support other climbers I often meet on the walls. Checking their gear, giving advices on the climb, or tell them how to stay safe at the pitch, or simply how to stay warm.

Besides improving climbing skills, I wanted to attend this course, in Scotland, to honor and remember my friendship with Neil. Neil introduced me to Ice Climbing in 2013 in Canada, when nobody would take a complete beginner, female, and with poor English skills, on vertical ice walls. He took me to very challenging routes in British Columbia, near Pemberton and Squamish, on the Boston falls of Vancouver Island, and in Colorado near Snowmass. Neil showed me that, with a good teaching and thorough gear and landscape checking, one can take almost anyone on these amazing ice walls. Since then, I have been practicing every winters and encouraging other climbers. Neil always laughed about “those rubbish ice walls of Scotland, where one have to deal more with mud and rocks than with ice and snow”. I know now what he meant and I am very grateful and proud for having had the opportunity of climbing in the Highlands thanks to The Neil Mackenzie Skills Grant 2018!

On Douglas Boulder North-West Face

Approach to Stob Coire Nan Lochan

Amazing view from Douglas Boulder North-West Face

Ease Gully

Very Scottish protection technique