swimming to rottnest
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Swimming to Rotto
By Sharon Mascall, Adelaide.
On February 21 2009, 38 year old BBC journalist Sharon Mascall swam solo to
Rottnest Island, 19.2k off the coast of Perth in Western Australia. This is her story.
From Perth to Brisbane, it is the stuff of legend. Those who make the distance, brave
the surf and walk, or stagger, those final few steps are treated like heroes. Rotto is
swimmings rite of passage. And I wanted to pass the test. Badly.
It didnt help being a Pom. There were the jokes aboutbreaststrokers and women in
frilly caps. Ive been told a hundred timesthat Australia invented the crawl and
Poms cannot swim. But swimming to Rottnest Island, 19.2 ks off the coast of Western
Australia, would prove them wrong. This was more than a rite of passage. It was my
ticket to becoming Australian.
Training started in February 2008. I have Angus Netting to thank for thata fellow
swimmer from Adelaide who had tried it before. When I met him five days after the
2008 Rottnest Channel Swim in February, his forehead was peeling, red and sore.
I started late and they pulled me out just short of 15 ks, he said, visibly exhausted.
And Im sunburnt. I still cant believe it. All over, after 15 ks.
But Angus wasnt giving up. He showed me his swim diary. An impressive excel
spreadsheet with different colours and numbers that made me feel weak. Angus was
swimming 30k a week. I was swimming one tenth of that. I had to lift my game.
And so I started. First, 8 kilometres a week and weights at the gym. My strategy was
to make training part of my life and develop a routine. Within weeks I had it. Three 2-
3k swims a week, plus a session at the gym.
In September, I increased the load. At the Adelaide Aquatic Centre, now my regular
Thursday afternoon haunt, I braved my first 5k.
Id found a way of beating the clock, or so I thought. I would swim up and back, 25m
after 25 m and watch the seconds tick by on the giant black and white dial. My target
was to make 50m in less than a minute and bank the seconds saved. Every 1k or so,Id stop for a rest and use those seconds, like a child saving cents for an ice cream.
That first 5k left me dizzy. I came out of the water with a light head and heavy feet.
But it was a start. To make it to Rottnest Island, I would have to swim the same
distance four times over. With a strong current against me, the distance could be even
longer.
In October, I found myself in Perth as part of a BBC World Service assignment
investigating the illegal trade in Australian wildlife. After wielding anonymous calls
from disgruntled smugglers, I escaped to Cottesloe, on the coast, just west of Perth
CBD. Id imagined it dozens of times. I knew the stories.
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When I stood on those rocks above the beach, the night before the swim, I looked
across at the island, Jenny Bradley had told me. Jenny is one of the fast-laners with
Atlantis AUSSI Mastersmy swim club - whod swum the channel before. When I
saw it, I just knew it. I could do it, shed said.
I had to do a Jenny. One false move, on that drive from Fremantle to Cottesloe andI could blow it. I twisted the peak on my cap as I drove north so that I couldnt look to
the left. No, not yet. It had to be right. The first time I saw the island I had to know I
could swim it. I couldnt risk a glimpse.
Finally, I indicated left. The road rose up before me and I knew Id have a clear view
from the top. So I drove. Up. And then I saw it. On the horizon, a perfect line of pines
and a stroke of sand. The deal was done.
I made myself jump in that day. I took to the green water and followed the surf life
savers as they ploughed up and down. At one point I imagined I was swimming it
the real Rotto, and not just playing around. I felt myself smile as I swam. Even if thatfeeling only lasted a few minutes on the day, it would be enough. This was going to
be the experience of a lifetime: more than just a swim.
That night I met my boat driver Neville, his wife Susie and their daughter Josie for the
first time. I could see he was a kindred spirit. He felt the same way about boats as I
did about swimming. Its in my blood, he said. My dad was in the navy and Ive
always been around boats. Boats are what I do.
His words didnt say it all. His face, wrinkled by the sun, broke into a broad smile.
This was a man who knew the sea. He also said he could get me to Rottnest in a
straight line.
On my return to Adelaide, the training got serious. Five kilometres were now my
norm with longer swims in the ocean every Sunday. The early summer seas between
Seacliff and Brighton in Adelaide were cold and rough. I wore a wetsuit the first time
and rubbed the skin from the back of my neck, leaving two painful burns.
There were times when I did not want to swim. There were times when I also
couldnt. In November, I flew back to the UK to turn the wildlife smugglers into a
radio programme and spend time with my Nan, who was dying of cancer.
We spent days by her electric fire as her breath slowed and I watched her hollow
cheeks tense in pain. I only made it to the pool three times in the ten days I was there.
But it didnt matter. I took Nan out in her wheelchair and gave her sharp tongue its
last taste of freedom.
Got any sprats? she asked at the supermarket. Im in a bloody wheelchair cant
yoursee, she said inPoundland, the UKs answer to a dollar shop. My family found
her impossible but I treasured her moods, her anger, her strength. She was growing
weaker. We said goodbye and I promised to return in March. It was the last time I saw
her.
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I returned to Australia with sadness, but found the sea warmer. The break from
training had done me good. I took comfort from Becanother Rotto alumnus in my
club. Never have a week out of the water, she said. Id missed six days of training
during my UK trip, not seven. I could even afford to have another few days off when
a chest infection hit: the legacy of long-haul travel.
Once Id recovered, there could be no excuses. On December 22, I wanted to swim
10k and qualify for Rotto as a solo swimmer. The target set by the organising
committee was 4 hours 15. I had to get back in the sea. And stay there.
To give myself a base, I swam it first in the pool. For four weeks straight, I averaged
20-23k a week, swimming between 6 and 10k most sessions. It was tough but worth
it. On December 22, at Noarlunga Reefchosen carefully after shark sightings at
BrightonI swam 10k in 3 hours 26, with the help of club friends Jodie, Mika and
Craig, my coach who swam beside me with a bucket to slow him down.
Christmas was spent with friends in Sydney, swimming laps between wooden planksat Balmoral beach, and January was in Singapore where I was teaching journalism for
the University of South Australia, my two children in tow. The day before we flew up,
the news came through. My Nan had only three days to live. It was a hard, hard time.
Swimming was not a priority. My children, my Nan and my work were more pressing
as I fought to protect them all. Id spoken to Nan, just before I left for Singapore and
she was breathless on the phone. She coughed and gasped, just wanting to be better.
Then, the morphine kicked in. On January 13, she died.
The last thing I wanted to do was swim. But I did, gently and slowly as my children
slept and I recovered from late nights at work. It gave me time to think and feel the
water on my skin. It was the one thing I could do that felt normal.
On my return to Adelaide, the pressure started to build. I had a 12k, a 15k and the
annual charity Mega Swim at Unley Pool to complete. I also had to touch base with
Nev, my boat driver, to make sure his preparations were going OK.
The 12k on Australia Day was an easy ride through glassy water and crowds playing
frisbee. My legs felt the heat as the sun soared to 42 degrees. I noticed my reactions as
I clocked up the ksthe first 3 were easy, the next 6 were hard, the last three were
easy. The 10k mark was a turning point: once passed, swimming became easier.
With that in mind I completed 15k two weeks before Rotto, with the help of Ruth,
Jodie, Craig, Yvonne and a dozen or so other swimmers from my club. The
atmosphere was upbeat as we ploughed up and down the now all too familiar Seacliff
to Brighton drag. The white house, Edward Street, the mustard house, the surf club. I
knew them all intimately, in all weathers. I was getting tired of them. It was time for
the real thing.
On Friday February 20, I flew to Perth with my husband Paul. Our first stop was
Cottesloe Surf Club, for the briefing held for interstate and international swimmers.
The weather would be perfectthey saidan easterly, followed by a glass-off and
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little or no sea breeze. We expected the best. And made our preparations for the next
day.
Irritated by a cold from the Mega Swimwhere Id covered 14k the weekend before -
I went to bed at Nevs place armed with pseudoephedrine and a night-time flu tablet.
It was the best medicine. I slept soundly and woke at four ready to swim. I put on mybathers, grabbed my wool fat and goggles and drove to the beach.
It was dark when I arrived. The sea was an inky black with a few paddlers thrown in. I
queued for my time-band, slopped on my wool fat and daubed every crease with
Vaseline.
Its going to hurt, said Julie, on the start line. Julie was from Manly surf club in
Sydney and had swum to Rotto four times before. Your hip will hurt, but after ten
minutes itll be something else, she said. Youll get there. Eventually.
The line up was ghostly and intimidating. Some had pure white faces and torsos;others were painted in fluorescent shades of zinc. We looked like ancient warriors,
painted and ready for battle. With grim faces and black bathers the women blended
into men as the start exposed shoulders, scars and skin. We looked out to sea and saw
nothing but waves. The distant pines of Rottnest Island were now just a memory.
As we set out, some raced ahead. My aim was to make it to the 1000m mark, meet
Nevs boat, and not get disqualified for failing to find him. It was a challenge. The
ocean was a flotilla of boats, skis and paddlers. Then I spotted his green hull, with my
husband Paul up front. But they could not see me.
At the 1000m buoy the race officials boat sped up. Are you looking for your boat?
they asked, Yes all green, I replied. They raced off and found Nev. Within
minutes we were on our way, swimming out to the first buoy: 10k away.
I had rehearsed the race in my mind. Everyone says it is mental, not physical. I could
not contemplate 20ks, so I had broken it down. Meet Nev. Swim 6. Make it to 10 and
be halfway. Feel strong to 15. Enjoy the final run.
Julie was right, but not quite. Unexpectedly my hip did start to hurt, and early on. It
had never caused trouble beforemy shoulders had felt the pressure. But it did not
stop. It nagged all the way.
The first 6ks were hard. The jellyfish barbed my face, my armpits and my neck. It
hurt but I took comfort from Jenny Bradleys words. Every time the jellyfish stung
me, Id imagine they were giving me energy, she said. It didnt work. I lost count of
the stings and the white blobs that passed beneath my eyes.
Finally, we made it to a row of giant ships anchored 6k off-shore. I tried to eat but
choked on a muesli bar. It had worked during training but not out here. There was
nowhere to stand, nothing to hold onto and seawater filled my nose whenever I tried
to chew. Muesli bars were out. Powerade and sports gels were the only way to go.
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The 10k buoy arrived around the four-hour mark. I felt strong even though Id hoped
to get there sooner. Theres acurrent, said Paul. The other boats are being blown
2-3k south. I knew what he meant. Every time we stopped, I had to swim to the side
of the boat to get back on track. Nev was struggling to hold me, on a straight line.
From 10 to 14ks I had a rush of energy. I was mesmerised by Sea TV thescreensaver of jellyfish passing slowly beneath my eyes above a clear view of the
ocean floor. I could see rays, schools of fish and clumps of seagrass. I could swim
the English Channel, I thought. But, when I broke the news to the crew, they were
not so keen.
You havent even got to bloody Rotto yet, said Nev. He thought I was joking. But I
could tell that the sailor in him liked the idea.
Within minutes, I came to regret my words. Once we passed 15k, I began to struggle.
My shoulders acheddespite the Neurofen I had taken halfwayand I was starting
to get confused. I could see the island and its beaches, but it was not getting anycloser. I could not work out why.
Later Nev explained. The current had blown us off course and we had around 800m to
make up. As a result, for a time, we had swum parallel to the shore. Other swimmers
had done the same for around 2-3k. I had been lucky.
The final run was messy. Nev and Paul said they had to leave but boats filled the
closing channel, ignoring the rules. They stuck with me as I struggled to find my way.
My shoulders were tired. My mind boggled. I expected to see buoys and flags but
none came.
Finally, Nevs boat peeled off and I followed a paddler with his swimmer. With a
final burst of strength my shoulders rallied and I pulled past them, through the choppy
water. I rounded a corner and the finish was in sight. The jetty, the flags, the crowds,
the noise. I was there. I was going to make it.
I did two duck dives as a tribute to my triathlon days and stood on firm ground for the
first time in over eight hours. Id made it, in eight hours and 46 minutes, the 35th
woman to do so that day. Dozens didnt make it. I walked up the beach, accompanied
by a volunteer. Whats your name? Where are you from? Are you OK?
Strangers kissed me at the finish line and told me they were proud. Only later that day
as we sped back to Fremantle on Nevs boat - did I fully appreciate how far Id
swum. It was the day I earned the right to call myself a swimmer. And, Im proud to
say, an Australian.