Subject: Principles of Pattern Making

Unit 3: Dart manipulations

Quadrant 1 – e-Text

Learning Objectives

The learning objectives of this unit are to:

Name the three major pattern making principles.

Apply the principles while creating design patterns.

Name the basic dart locations.

Use the pivotal transfer technique to transfer darts.

Use techniques to transfer a single dart to other locations.

Apply instructions to fold the dart excess in the correct directions.

Discuss the reasons for marking the dart point(s) before reaching bust point.

Explain the different ways that the shoulder dart can be modified.

Create the tuck dart, pleat, and flare from the single dart.

Create gathers using the slash spread and pivotal transfer techniques.

Create graduated, radiating, asymmetric, intersecting, and parallel darts by dividing the

single dart excess into multiples.

Explain why dart excess remains in designs where the style lines do not cross bust point.

Describe the princess, armhole princess and panel style lines.

3.1 Moving a Basic Dart

Underarm and Waist Dart

STEP 1

• Use Shoulder and waistline dart sloper

• Mark A & B at Shoulder dart

• Mark the underarm position in the side seam where dart is required and mark “C”

• Draw a line from C to Apex point.

STEP 2

• Slash from C to Apex point

• Close the shoulder dart by moving A to B so that AB Joins and opens as under arm dart

at point C.

STEP 3

• A New underarm Dart will be created at C.

• Trace the front bodice sloper with underarm and waist dart.

• STEP 4

• Reduce the Waist and underarm dart by ½” so that we get ease at apex area.

• Draw grain line parallel to the center front.

• Draw the new darts at underarm and waist.

• True the underarm Dart using a straight scale.

• STEP 4

• Reduce the Waist and underarm dart by ½” so that we get ease at apex area.

• Draw grain line parallel to the center front.

• Draw the new darts at underarm and waist.

• True the underarm Dart using a straight scale.

Armhole and Waist Dart

STEP 1

• To shift the shoulder dart to armhole in the front bodice ,draw a straight line from apex

point to the armhole .

• Mark the point on armhole as “C”.

• Mark the point on armhole as “C”.

STEP 2

• Slash the point C & A till apex point.

• Now join the point A On point B by spreading the new dart line C.

STEP 3

• Now join the point A On point B ,by spreading the new dart line C.

• by this the shoulder dart get closed and a new dart is formed at armhole.

STEP 4

• Trace the new formed front bodice with armhole and waist dart.

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the armhole dart and true it with using French curve.

STEP 5

• Now it give ease at apex area , mark the waist and armhole dart point ½’’ away from the

apex point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the shoulder dart 0f front bodice sloper are manipulated at arm hole.

Neckline and Waist Dart

STEP 1

• To shift the shoulder dart to neckline in the front basic bodice sloper ,draw a straight line

from apex point to the mid-neckline .

• Mark the point on mid-neckline as “C”.

STEP 2

• Slash the line joining the point B at shoulder and apex point ,as well as the line joining

the point C at neckline and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards shoulder dart , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 3

• Thus, spreads at point C, when A&B joins and the mid-neckline dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with neckline and waist dart.

STEP 4

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the neckline dart and true it with using French curve.

STEP 5

• Now to give ease at apex area , mark the neckline and waist dart point ½’’ away from the

apex point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the shoulder dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated at neck line.

Center Front and Waist Dart

STEP 1

• To make dart at the center front of the basic front bodice sloper ,draw a straight line

from center front to apex point and name it as “C”.

STEP 2

• Slash the line joining the point B at shoulder and apex point ,as well as the line joining

the point C at center front and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards shoulder dart , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 3

• Thus ,spreads at point C, when A&B points joins and the center front dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with center front and waist dart.

STEP 4

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the center front dart and true it with using straight scale.

STEP 5

• Now it gives ease at apex area, mark the Center Front and waist dart point ½’’ away from

the apex point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the shoulder dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated at arm hole.

French Dart

STEP 1

• To make dart at the side seam of the basic front bodice sloper(as French dart) .

STEP 2

• Slash the line joining the point A at waist and apex point ,as well as the line joining the

point C at side seam and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards waist dart B , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 3

• Thus, spreads at point C, when A&B points joins and the French dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with French dart.

STEP 4

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the french dart and true it with using straight scale.

STEP 5

• Now give it ease at apex area , mark the Center Front dart point ½’’ away from the apex

point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the waist dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated at side seam as French dart.

Neckline Dart

STEP 1

• To make dart at the neckline of the basic front bodice.

• Draw a straight line from center front to apex point and name it as “C”.

STEP 2

• Slash the line joining the point A at waist and apex point ,as well as the line joining the

point C at neckline and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards waist dart B , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 3

• Thus ,spreads at point C, when A&B points joins and the neckline dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with neckline dart.

STEP 4

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the neckline dart and true it with using French curve scale.

STEP 5

• Now it give ease at apex area , mark the neckline dart point ½’’ away from the apex

point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the waist dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated as neckline dart.

Shoulder Neckline Dart

STEP 1

• To shift the waist dart to shoulder neckline in the front basic bodice sloper ,take a front

bodice sloper with just waist dart.

STEP 2

• Now draw a straight line from apex point to the shoulder neckline point .

• Mark the point on shoulder neckline as “C”.

STEP 3

• Slash the line joining the point A at waist and apex point ,as well as the line joining the

point C at shoulder neckline and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards waist dart , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 4

• Thus ,spreads at point C, when A&B joins and the shoulder neckline dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with shoulder neckline dart.

STEP 5

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the shoulder neckline dart and true it with using French curve.

STEP 6

• Now to give ease at apex area , mark the shoulder neckline dart point ½’’ away from the

apex point.

STEP 7

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart point.

• Finally the waist dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated at shoulder neck line.

Diagonal Center Front Dart

STEP 1

• To make dart at the diagonal center front of the basic front bodice take a sloper with

just waist dart .

STEP 2

• Draw a straight line from center front to apex point and name it as “C”.

STEP 3

• Slash the line joining the point B at waist and apex point ,as well as the line joining the

point C at center front and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards waist dart , so that the points A & B joins.

Horizontal Center Front Bustline Dart

STEP 1

• To make dart at the center front of the basic front bodice sloper ,draw a straight line

from center front to apex point and name it as “C”.

STEP 2

• Slash the line joining the point B at shoulder and apex point ,as well as the line joining

the point C at center front and apex point.

• Shift the slashed portion towards waistdart , so that the points A & B joins.

STEP 3

• Thus , spreads at point C, when A&B points joins and the center front dart is formed .

• Trace the front bodice pattern with center front and waist dart.

STEP 4

• Mark the grain line parallel to the center front.

• Crease the center front dart and true it with using straight scale.

STEP 5

• Now it give ease at apex area , mark the Center Front dart point ½’’ away from the apex

point.

STEP 6

• Draw the New dart legs at the dart points.

• Finally the waist dart of front bodice sloper are manipulated at horizontal center front

dart.

3.2 Decorative Darts and Dart Equivalent

Division of Basic Waist Darts

Use waist dart sloper.

Label A and B at waist dart legs.

Draw a slash line from underarm to apex point and label C at side seam.

Slash C to apex point.

Close the waist dart by pivot at apex point and move point A to B which

Make an underarm dart at side seam.

Draw a slash line from apex point to waist seam and label D at waist line.

Draw another parallel slash line from the dart leg to waist line and label

E at waist line.

Draw one more parallel slash line and label F at waist line.

Slash from D to apex point.

Slash from E to dart leg on the slash

line

Slash from F to dart leg on the slash line.

Spread at the waist line so that the underarm dart closes at the side seam.

Spread should be more at D which is pointed towards bust point.

True the side seam.

Trace the pattern as highlighted, reduce the dart length 1/2" from apex

Point.

Division of waist dart is completed.

Dart Clusters

Use waist dart sloper. Label A and B at dart legs.

Mark 1" below the apex point on dart leg and draw 1" perpendicular line.

Draw 1" parallel line to dart leg to the waist seam.

Do the same for other side also.

Join the slash lines to apex point.

Cut the slash line from waist to apex point.

Spread at the waist to make dart cluster.

Spread more on the middle dart which is pointed towards the bust point.

Redraw the side dart by reducing 1/2" from the horizontal line as shown.

Do the same for the other side of the dart.

Graduated and Radiating Darts

Graduating Darts

Use waist dart sloper.

Draw a slash line from center front neck to 1” away from apex point.

Slash the lines.

Draw parallel slash lines from shoulder and close the waist dart.

Spread ½” at shoulder, spread balance at the last slash line which is near to the armhole.

True neck line.

Reduce the dart length by 1”.

Trace the pattern as highlighted.

Graduating dart pattern is completed.

Radiating Darts

Use waist dart sloper. Label A & B at waist dart.

Draw a slash line from mid of neck to bust point and label C.

Draw a 1” perpendicular line from mid of the slash line on both side and label D and E.

Mark ½” away at neckline and draw slash lines on both side as shown.

Slash the lines.

Close the waist dart by pivot at the bust point and move A to B.

Spread ½” for 1st and 3rd slash line and spread balance at the middle slash line.

Draw new darts as shown.

Parallel Darts

Use Waist and shoulder dart sloper.

Mark 1 ½” below armpit and label as E.

Connect E to Bust point.

Slash E to Bust point; Slash A to Bust point; Pivot at BP and rotate A to B.

New underarm dart will be created at E.

Reduce underarm dart length by ½” from Bust point.

Reduce waist dart length by ½”.

Mark 1” above the side waist; Draw 2 curved parallel lines from dart end points.

Slash the curved lines.

Pivot at waist dart end point and close the waist dart; new dart will be formed.

Pivot at underarm dart end point; Rotate and close the underarm dart will make new dart.

New Pattern is created with parallel French dart.

Make grain line parallel to Center front.

Asymmetric Darts

Use Single waist dart sloper.

Draw a slash line from mid armhole to bust point.

Slash the line and pivot at bust point. Rotate C to D to close the waist dart.

It will create a dart at mid armhole.

Mirror pattern.

Plot style line as required. Marked 1” from Side waist to Bust point.

Plot style line from 1” above armhole dart to bust point.

Slash the plot lines.

Pivot at bust point and rotate the pattern to close the armhole dart.

It will create a dart at armhole to bust point.

Pivot at bust point and rotate the pattern to close the mid armhole dart.

It will create a curved dart from waist to bust point.

Trace the pattern as highlighted above.

A new pattern is created with asymmetric darts.

Mark grain line parallel to center front.

Reduce the dart by 1”.

Asymmetric Dart daft completed.

Intersecting Darts

Use mid armhole dart sloper and mark A, B, C, D, E & F.

Mark G 2” from right side waist; Plot a line from G to E.

Mark H at the center front intersecting lines; Plot F – H.

Slash the patterns from G to E and F to H.

Pivot at E and rotate the pattern B to A.

It will close the armhole dart and open the dart at G.

Pivot F and rotate the dart D – C.

This will close Right armhole dart and open at H.

Trace the pattern.

A new pattern is created with intersecting darts.

Mark grain line parallel to center front.

Reduce the dart from E & F by ½” away from the bust point to get the smoother fit.

Intersecting dart draft completed.

3.3 Elimination of Darts

Elimination of Darts into Front Yokes – Decorative

Use shoulder and waist dart sloper. Label A & B at shoulder dart legs.

Label C & D at waist dart legs.

Draw style lines as required But it should pass through Apex point and label E & F.

Slash from E to Apex point. Pivot at apex Point and close the shoulder dart which will open the

dart at E.

Trace the pattern.

Cut the pattern separately which give you front top panel.

Trace the pattern as highlighted and cut separately which give you center front panel.

Trace the pattern as highlighted which gives you front side panel.

Converting the darts to decorative seams completed.

Elimination of Darts into Front Yokes – Front Yoke

Use shoulder and waist dart basic bodice.

Mark A & B at shoulder Dart.

Draw a horizontal line from Apex point to Center front line.

Cut the horizontal line and trace the pattern as highlighted.

Separate pattern and mark grain line. This will produce yoke pattern.

Trace the front pattern as highlighted.

Separate the front pattern. Mark grain line and label.

The shoulder dart is converted into front yoke seam.

Elimination of Darts into Back Yokes

Use back pattern. Label A & B at shoulder dart.

Draw yoke line and label C & D.

Extent the shoulder dart to the yoke line.

Slash dart end point to D.

Close the shoulder dart which makes a dart at D.

Label D1.

Measure D to D1 and mark the same measurement from D.

Trace yoke pattern.

Draw grain line horizontally.

Trace the back pattern.

Draw grain line parallel to center back.

Back yoke and back pattern created

3.4 Shirring

Converting Waist Dart into Shirring

Use waist dart sloper.

Draw parallel lines from waist dart legs to side seam.

Slash and spread in the dart leg. Spreading amount may decide according to design.

Trace the pattern.

Pattern with waist dart shirring created.

Converting Shoulder Dart into Shirring

Use shoulder and waist dart sloper. Label A and B at shoulder dart. Label C & D at waist dart.

Draw a slash line 1 ½” below armpit to apex point.

Slash the line.

Close the waist dart by pivot at bust point and move point C to D.

Close the shoulder dart by pivot at bust point and move point A to B.

Draw yoke style line.

Cut the yoke separately.

Draw parallel slash lines.

Slash the lines from top to bottom and spread such a way that it should close the dart.

True front yoke seam.

True side seam.

Trace the pattern.

Walk the piece from center front and mark notches for shirring start point.

Walk the piece from armhole and mark notches on both the pieces for shirring end point.

Mark grain line parallel to center front.

Shoulder shirring draft completed.

3.5 Flanges

Use shoulder and waist dart sloper. Label A,B,C and D.

Draw a slash line from shoulder at armhole to apex point.

Label E at shoulder at armhole.

Slash the line and close the shoulder dart by pivot at bust point and move point A to B.

Similarly close the waist dart by pivot at bust point and move the point C to D.

Flange created at the shoulder at armhole in the front.

Use back pattern.

Draw a slash line from shoulder at armhole to waist line.

Spread at shoulder which should be equal to front pattern spread amount.

Back flange created.

3.6 Style Line

Classic Princess Line

Use shoulder and waist dart sloper and label A,B,C & D.

Draw an underarm slash line.

Transfer the shoulder dart to underarm dart.

Reduce underarm and waist dart ½” away from bust point.

Draw a line from mid of shoulder to waist dart end point.

Mark notches 2” above and below from the apex point.

Trace center panel and side panel separately.

Mark ¾” away from the bust point and pivot.

Close underarm dart.

Mark 1/16” away above bust point and 1/8” inside below bust.True the shape.

Trace the pattern as highlighted to make side panel.

Match the shape with front panel and trim.

Walk the pieces and match notches to complete front pattern.

Use back bodice.

Walk the pieces and match notches to complete front pattern.

Draw curve line from shoulder to waist dart end point.

Trace highlighted area to make back side panel.

Trace highlighted area to make center back panel.

Classic princess seam pattern draft completed.

Armhole Princess Line

Use waist and shoulder dart front pattern.

Transfer shoulder dart to under arm dart.

Reduce the under arm dart length by 1”.

Draw a line from mid armhole to bust point.

Draw smooth armhole princess line.

Trace highlighted pattern to make center panel.

Trace highlighted area to make side panel.

Pivot ¾” from bust point and close under arm dart.

Draw contour shape by reducing 1/8” below bust.

Copy the same shape to the front panel.

Walk the princess seam and mark notches on both panels.

Front armhole princess panel completed.

Use back bodice.

Transfer shoulder dart to armhole.

Draw armhole princess line.

Trace highlighted pattern to make back side panel.

Trace highlighted pattern to make center back panel.

Remove the armhole dart by transferring to the princess seam. Trim it.

Walk the piece and true the armhole

Armhole princess seam completed.

Panel Style Line

Use shoulder and waist dart sloper.

Transfer shoulder dart to underarm dart.

Draw ½” horizontal line from mid armhole.

Draw style line.

Trace highlighted area to make center panel.

Trace highlighted areas and join them together to make side panel.

Close the waist dart.

Reduce the dart length by ½”

Front panel style line completed.

Use back pattern.

Draw ½” horizontal line from mid armhole.

Draw style line.

Trace highlighted area to make center panel.

Trace highlighted area to make side panel.

Panel princess seam draft is completed.

3.7 Conclusion

To summarize in this unit, you have learnt how to move a dart and create decorative darts. You

have also learnt how to eliminate darts shirring, flanges, and different style lines.