study guide: insulation1 study guide: insulation learning objectives: • the features and benefits...

1© North American Hardware and Paint Association

STUDY GUIDE: INSULATION

Learning Objectives:• The features and benefi ts of the products you sell.

• How to answer your customers’ product-related questions.

• How to help your customer choose the right products.

• How to increase transaction sizes by learning more about add-on sales and upselling techniques.

Product Knowledge:

Module 1: Insulation

Insulation R-Values

• Insulation is rated by its R-value. R refers to resistance to heat fl ow. The higher the R-value, the greater the eff ectiveness of the insulation. The R-value depends on the type of material, its thickness and density.

• When helping customers decide which R-value to buy, check charts that show recommended R-values for diff erent areas of the country and diff erent types of fuel used for heating.

Roll Insulation

• Roll insulation, also known as blanket insulation, may be made of fi berglass, mineral wool, plastic fi bers or natural fi bers. Fiberglass is the most common type.

• This type of insulation is usually installed between open ceiling joists and wall studs.

• Roll insulation comes in continuous rolls that vary in width and thickness. Diff erent sizes are appropriate for diff erent spaces in the house.

• Rolls are available in various R-values, such as R-19 or R-25.

• Easy to install and suited for standard stud and joist spacing. Thicknesses range from 3-1/2” to 8”.

• There are two main types of roll insulation. Faced rolls have a vapor barrier that should be installed with the vapor barrier toward the interior or heated area.

• The vapor barrier is often paper. Some types have aluminum foil that refl ects radiant heat.

• Paper flanges at either side of faced rolls allow them to be stapled between framing members.

• Unfaced rolls are slightly wider to provide a friction fi t between framing members.

• Since unfaced rolls have no vapor barrier, encourage customers to install a separate vapor barrier with this type of insulation.

Batt Insulation

• Batt insulation, also known as blanket insulation, is made of fi berglass, mineral wool, plastic fi bers or natural fi bers. Fiberglass is the most common type.

• It is similar to roll insulation, but best used where there are many cross beams or other obstructions.

• Like roll insulation, there are two types: faced and unfaced.

• Advise customers that for best results, insulation should not be compressed to fi t in a wall. Compressing the insulation will reduce its R value.

• Batt insulation is available in R values ranging from R-11 to R-38.

• Batt thicknesses range from 3-1/2” to 12”.

Faced Roll

Unfaced Roll

Faced Roll

Unfaced Roll


Loose-Fill

• Loose-fi ll insulation may be made of cellulose, fi berglass or mineral wool.

• The cellulose type is made from waste paper that has been treated to be fi re retardant. It is also less likely to cause skin irritation.

• Loose fi ll is used primarily in unfi nished attics, but may also be used in walls in retrofi t installations.

• May be blown-in (installed with a blowing machine) or poured-in place (poured directly from the bag).

Rigid Insulation

• Rigid insulation usually comes in board form in a variety of sizes ranging from 8” squares to 4’ x 12’ sheets.

• It has the highest R-value per inch of any common type of insulation.

• This type of insulation can be used on the interior or exterior of the house or on basement walls. It can also be used to cover framing members rather than fi tting between them.

There are several types of rigid insulation.

• Molded or expanded polystyrene. This type is inexpensive, but not moisture- or fi re-resistant. Use as above-grade exterior sheathing, interior basement wall insulation, suspended ceiling panels and as siding backerboard. R-value is about 4.0 per inch.

• Extruded polystyrene. This type is also known as blue board or pink board. It is not fi re-resistant, but has more moisture resistance than bead board. Use for exterior founda-tion perimeters, wall sheathing and interior applications. R-value is about 5.0 per inch.

• Polyisocyanurate. It is both fi re- and moisture-resistant and has an R-value of 7.0 per inch. It is available foil-faced for exterior wall sheathing, vinyl-faced as a fi nish covering for beam ceilings, or impregnated with asphalt for hot-mopped roof applications. It may be rigid or semi-rigid.

• Semi-rigid fi berglass panels. These can be used below grade where the fi berglass fi bers allow water to drain freely down the surface of the panel to the drainage system around the footings.

Refl ective Foil Insulation

• Refl ective foil insulation comes in long rolls of various widths that can be cut to fi t any space.

• It is often used on unfi nished walls, ceilings and fl oors.

• One type is made of foil and polyethylene to trap air between the sheets of foil, generally using bubble pack.

• A second type expands when installed between stud spaces. The resistance to heat fl ow depends on the heat fl ow direction. This type of insulation is most eff ective in reducing downward heat fl ow.

• When a single refl ective surface is used alone and faces an open space such as an attic, it is called a radiant barrier.

Sprayed Foam Insulation

• Sprayed foam insulation comes in a liquid spray form that quickly foams and hardens.

• It is used for enclosed existing wall or open new wall cavities and attic fl oors. Also used for sealing around windows, doors and construction seams.

• This type of insulation may have a higher insulating value than blown-in materials, but is more expensive and still subject to shrinking.

• It should be covered with a vapor barrier and is usually installed professionally.


Housewrap

• Housewrap is also known as an air infi ltration barrier.

• Unlike vapor retarders, which prevent vapor from passing through, housewraps allow water vapor to pass so moisture inside the wall can get out.

• It should be installed on the outside of the structure. The inside of the structure should have a vapor retarder.

• The purpose is to stop liquid water (such as wind-driven rain) from passing through and slows down air infi ltration through the wall.

• It should not be used in conjunction with a moisture barrier on an outside wall, as that would only cause moisture to become trapped.

Vapor Retarder

• A vapor retarder is a mechanical or chemical fi lm that reduces the rate at which moisture passes through it.

• Polyethylene fi lm is an example of a mechanical vapor retarder.

• Some paints and sealers act as a chemical vapor retarder.

• Some insulation has a built-in vapor retarder.

Plumbing Insulation

• Some types of insulation are for a specifi c application. Here are some of the common types of insulation used for the plumbing system of the house.

Water Heater Blanet

• Wraps around the water heater to reduce the amount of time a water heater needs to heat water.

• Do not wrap the blanket around the temperature relief valve or the controller. Also, do not wrap the top of a gas water heater, as the blanket could catch fi re from the exhaust heat. For electric water heaters, do not cover the heating-element access panels.

• Sized according to the water heater size.

Pipe Wrap

• For insulating water pipes from freezing in the winter. It also helps control heat loss when pipes carry hot water and controls condensation and dripping.

• Comes in batt form, which can be wrapped around the pipe.

Tube Pipe Insulation

• Also insulates water pipes. Is preformed to fi t around the pipe.

• Some use self-adhesive tape to secure them around the pipe.

• Sized according to the size of pipe it will fi t, typically ½” or ¾”.

• Also available in pre-formed tees or elbows.

Outdoor Faucet Cover

• Fits over an outdoor faucet or sillcock to protect it from freezing and damage.

• Loop the cord around the faucet handle, then pull to lock the cover against the side of the house.


Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why is a vapor barrier important?A: A vapor barrier prevents condensation, which is when warm air from the inside of the house meets the cold air on the exterior of the house during the winter. The vapor barrier prevents condensation that results from those diff ering temperatures. Otherwise, condensation builds up in the wall cavity and causes wood to rot and allows mold and mildew to grow over time. A vapor barrier should only be used on the inside of the house. It is diff erent from housewrap, which allows moisture that may be inside the wall cavity to escape. It should be used on the outside of the house.

Q: What R-value should I use? A: The Department of Energy recommends R-values based on the type of fuel used and where you live. Generally, attics in homes heated by gas or oil in most southern locations should use R-19. For an electrically heated home in the same area, the recommendation is R-30. The minimum recommendation for homes in the coldest climates, regardless of heating method, is R-49.

Q: Can I stack insulation to get a higher R-value?A: Yes. For example, two R-19 batts can be stacked on each other to create R-38 insulation. You also can add loose-fi ll insulation on top of a bottom layer of batts.

Q: I already have some loose-fi ll insulation in my attic. How do I know if I need more?A: Generally, if you have less than 9” of insulation on the attic fl oor, it needs more.

Q: Can insulation reduce sound?A: Yes. Insulation can be a sound barrier for a quieter interior of the home. It can be used to prevent sound transmission through exterior and interior walls. Check the labeling on the product, as some manufacturers have products with better sound insulation qualities.

Q: How do I attach insulation between fl oor joists?A: Insulation must be installed with the vapor barrier facing up. This means the paper fl anges cannot be used. Use insulation supports (thin metal rods) to support the insulation. You can also attach a string in a lace pattern across the bottom of the joists.

Q: What does this chart on the bag of loose-fi ll insulation mean?A: Each bag of loose-fi ll insulation is labeled according to federal specifi cations for both mineral wool and cellulose. The left column lists the R-value, second column tells how many bags are needed to cover 1,000 sq. ft. of attic fl oor area. The third column gives the minimum thickness after completing the job. Some manufacturers have two columns on thickness for loose-fi ll and cellulose insulation. The second of these is labeled “settled density.” This is important since cellulose settles quickly.

Upselling

• Fiberglass in high-performance batts and blankets is packed more densely than in standard insulation. Greater density gives a higher R-value than the same overall thickness in standard insulation.

• Customers who are worried about the skin and eye irritation caused by some types of insulation may want to consider encapsulated insulation. This type is easier to handle as it reduces dust and other irritants associated with insulation. While the insulation is enclosed, the plastic casing still allows the insulation to breathe and prevent condensation buildup.

Taking it to the Floor:


Add-On Sales

• There are a few tools customers will need when installing insulation.

• Recommend a tape measure and a utility knife for measuring and cutting lengths of insulation.

• Those installing insulation in an attic or crawlspace may want a portable light. They may also want knee pads to make it easier to crawl around in tight places.

• Suggest respiratory protection, goggles and cotton gloves, as some types of insulation can irritate the skin.

• Anyone installing roll insulation or a vapor barrier will need a staple gun for fastening to framing members of the house.

• Remind customers that they should use tape to mend any tears in the vapor barrier that might occur during installation.

• Those buying rigid foam insulation will want ring-shank nails with a plastic cap for securing it.

• Also don’t forget to mention all of the other items customers can use to insulate and weatherproof their homes, such as weather stripping products and caulk.

Product Knowledge:

Module 2: Ventilation

Ridge Vent

• A ridge vent is a type of exhaust vent that replaces the ridge of the roof.

• When used with intake vents, these provide a continuous circulation of air.

• It helps keep the attic cool, reduces air conditioning costs and helps prevent ice dams.

• Typical widths are 9” and 12”.

• The shingle-over ridge vent type incorporates shingles that match the roof and are nailed over the vent.

• Pre-drilled holes make installation easy.

• Most types feature baffl es because ridge vents without baffl es can allow wind and moisture to enter the attic.

Gable Vent

• A gable vent is a type of exhaust vent that provides cross ventilation in the upper portion of the attic.

• It features open louvered joints and built-in screens to keep out bugs and birds.

• Gable vents may be installed before or after the siding and comes in a variety of shapes, including octagon, pentagon, round, square, half-round or rectangular.

Roof Louver

• A roof louver is a type of exhaust vent used for bathroom fan exhausts, kitchen duct outlets and attic ventilation.

• It is typically made of aluminum or plastic.

• One type, the wall louver, has louvered vanes and can be fl ush or recessed mounted.

• Another type, the midget louver, helps contain moisture in sidewall construction or other areas.


Soffi t Vent

• A soffi t vent is a type of intake vent that is installed on the soffi t or eave of the roof.

• It helps balance the fl ow of air into the attic from the ridge vent.

• It is typically made of aluminum or PVC.

• The reversible type of soffi t vent can be fl ush or recessed mounted.

• Another type is the continuous soffi t vent that runs the entire length of the eave. It is typically 2” or 4” wide and 8’ long.

Foundation Vent

• A foundation vent is used to exhaust basements and crawl spaces.

• It may be constructed of steel, aluminum or plastic.

• It can be used with brick, block or frame construction.

Turbine Ventilator

• A turbine vent mounts on the roof. It turns as the wind blows and enhances airfl ow as it sucks air out of the attic.

• This type of vent is more eff ective than roof line or gable vents, but not as effi cient as a ridge vent.

• Its effectiveness depends on whether or not the wind is blowing, but it is designed to spin with the slightest breeze.

Fan-Driven Ventilator

• A fan-driven ventilator can be mounted on the roof or attic and pulls the most air of any ventilator system.

• It is controlled by a manual switch, thermostat and/or humidistat.

• One drawback is that it is electric powered, so it uses some of the energy it’s designed to save.


Q: Why do I need vents in my attic?A: Venting protects against moisture buildup in the attic and framing materials and helps keep the home cooler. In the summer, a tremendous amount of heat can build up in the attic, which can make the air conditioning system work much harder than it needs to. Venting keeps the attic cooler because it allows that hot air a place to escape. In the winter, vapor occurs when the warm air inside the house meets the cool air outside and condenses into water droplets. Ventilation keeps this moisture from rotting insulation and framing materials.

Q: Why do I need both soffi t vents and a ridge vent?A: A properly balanced vent system consists of two types of vents. Intake vents are placed along the soffi t to allow fresh air into the attic. Exhaust vents are installed in the upper third of the roof to allow attic air to escape. Or, the exhaust vent may be a ridge vent. In fact, most builders agree that a ridge vent system is the most eff ective as well as the most cost-eff ective. With a properly vented system, the air in the attic should completely change every six minutes.

Q: Do I have enough vents in my attic?A: You should have one square foot of vent area for every 150 sq. ft. of attic fl oor space. The vent manufacturer will list the vent area on the package as the FVA (free vent area). The vent area must also be split between high and low vents. If a vapor barrier is present, then the requirement changes to one square foot for every 300 sq. ft. Shingle manufacturers require that attics have adequate ventilation; otherwise their product warranty may be voided.



Add-On Sales

• Here are some of the common tools customers will need before installing a vent. Remind customers to gather them before they start so the project will so smoothly.

• Customers will need a tape measure, chalk line and carpenter’s pencil for marking the location of the cut.

• Depending on the type of vent they are installing, customers will need a saber saw, circular saw or drill for cutting an opening for the vent.

• After cutting the opening, customers may need a pry bar for removing framing material where the vent will sit.

• Make sure customers have enough of the appropriate nails and a hammer for attaching the vent.

• Anyone installing a vent on the roof may need a utility knife for trimming asphalt shingles.

• Recommend the appropriate roof cement or caulk for sealing around the vent after installation.

• Ask if the customer needs gloves or eye protection for the project.

Product Knowledge:

Module 3: Weather Stripping

Door Shoe

• A door shoe is used to seal the space beneath the door.

• It attaches to the bottom of the door and may be made of extruded aluminum and vinyl.

• A shoe is used primarily in conjunction with a smooth-top aluminum threshold to form a proper seal.

• It is more durable and provides a better weather seal than a door sweep.

Door Sweep

• A door sweep seals the bottom of the door to prevent drafts, water, noise, light and insects.

• It attaches to the lower part of the door and is easy to install. It goes on the bottom of the interior of an interior-swinging door, or on the exterior of an exterior swinging door.

• One type is an aluminum extrusion with a rain-drip fl ange to prevent the fl ow of water off a door from collecting on a threshold and fl owing under a door.

• Another type has an adhesive backing that makes it easy to install.

Felt

• Felt is used for weather proofi ng around a door or window and is a good choice when appearance is no concern.

• Felt installs by gluing, nailing or stapling to the frame or molding around doors so the door will close snugly and quietly against it.

• It is available in a variety of widths, thicknesses and quality.

• Felt is inexpensive, but also has the shortest life. Recommend reinforced felt weather strip, which is sturdier and designed to last longer.

Q: How can I keep insulation from spilling onto the soffi t vent?A: Use a baffl e in each rafter cavity that contains a soffi t vent. These are called rafter vents and are used to keep insulation from covering up soffi t vents. You should install them between rafter beams at the point where the rafters intersect the ceiling joists. Use staples to attach them to the underside of the roof decking.


V-Type Weather Stripping

• V-type weather stripping, also known as a tension seal, is a V-shaped piece of PVC or metal (usually copper, bronze, aluminum or stainless steel).

• It is used inside the track of a double-hung or sliding window or at the top and sides of a door.

• Spring-metal tension strips are more diffi cult to install than adhesive-backed tension strips made of vinyl, but are the best, permanent type.

Vinyl Gasket

• Vinyl gasket can be used in places with warping or irregularities, typically around a doorjamb or a window stop.

• It also cushions as it seals.

• Several types are available. One type consists of vinyl or sponge rubber tubes with a fl ange. The fl ange is tacked into place and the door or window presses against it to form a seal. Or, it may have a fl ange that is pressed into an existing groove in the doorjamb.

• Another type is a tubular gasket attached to a metal strip that resembles reinforced tubular vinyl.

Foam Sealant

• Foam sealant is used for sealing irregular gaps around the home, such as plumbing feed-thrus, electrical outlets and vents.

• It installs similar to foam insulation, but comes in an aerosol can and is best for do-it-yourselfers.

• After curing, it can be trimmed, sanded and painted.

• During initial installation, it only fi lls the area about 33% and then expands to fi ll and seal the rest of the area.

• There are diff erent formulations available for diff erent applications.

Caulking Cord

• A caulking cord is used to temporarily fi ll large gaps around windows.

• It consists of soft, rope-like strands of weather strip with the consistency of molding clay.

• It is easy to apply by hand and remains pliable so it can be removed when the weather warms.

• Caulking cord is paintable and will not harden or dry out.

Adhesive-Backed Weather Stripping

• Adhesive-backed weather stripping is used at the top and bottom of window sash, door frames, attic hatches and inoperable windows.

• It installs by pressing into position and sticking permanently, so it requires no nails or tools.

• Several types are available. One type, pressure-sensitive sponge rubber tape, is suited for larger problem areas.

• Another type, pressure-sensitive vinyl foam or felt, is for average sealing.

• Closed-cell PVC foam compresses to fi ll irregular gaps and can be used indoors.

• Open-cell foam is for inside use only.

• High-density foam is extremely durable and long lasting.



Q: How do I insulate the top and side of my garage door?A: Aluminum and vinyl weather stripping is available for this. There is also a weather strip made specifi cally for garage door bottoms.

Q: What is the best type of weather stripping to use?A: It depends on what you want to seal. Make sure the type you choose can withstand the friction, weather, temperature changes and wear and tear of the location. If it is intended to seal a door or window, make sure it will seal it well while still allowing it to open freely.

Q: Where should I look for air leaks around the house?A: Look around door and window frames, electrical and gas service outlets, outdoor water faucets, air conditioners, vents and fans and where dryer vents pass through walls.

Q: How do I get foam insulation off my hands?A: Before it cures, use an acetone or fi ngernail polish remover. If the foam cures, a solvent won’t do any good. The insulation won’t harm your skin and will fall off in a couple of days. Or, you can try a pumice soap and warm water. However, always read caution statements on the back of the can and use gloves to avoid contact with skin.

Q: Where would I use V-type weather strip?A: This is a good place to use where appearance is important, as it is practically invisible. When the door is closed, the open ends of the V-shape close together, with one end of the V touching the door and the other adhered to the door. If you have an older home, use the bronze type for an antique appearance.

Q: Can I use expanding foam to insulate walls?A: We don’t recommend it. Expanding foam products are created to fi ll small cracks and voids and require ventilation to cure. Larger gaps may require special techniques to cure properly. Also, you shouldn’t use expanding foam behind tub surrounds.

Q: How do I insulate around the air conditioner?A: There is a special type of air conditioner weather strip. It consists of a rectangular polyfoam that press-fi ts between the top frame or lower sash and upper pane. It seals off the air spaces between the window and the air conditioner.

Add-On Sales

• Installing weather stripping is an easy do-it-yourself project, so make sure customers have all the tools they need before they start.

• Recommend a hacksaw or tin snips for cutting a door shoe, sweep or V-type weather stripping.

• Customers will need a utility knife for cutting felt and foam types of weather stripping.

• Suggest a measuring tape and pencil for determining the appropriate size weather stripping needed for a project.

• Recommend customers use gloves and eye protection when using foam sealant.

• Finally, remind customers tackling a weather proofi ng project to check around windows and doors to see if they need any caulk. You can learn more about the diff erent types of caulk in the Paint and Decorating chapter of NRHA’s Basic Training Course in Hardware Retailing.


study guide: insulation1 study guide: insulation learning objectives: • the features and benefits...

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