strategy and implementation...
TRANSCRIPT
EXECUTIVE SUMMARYSAAJ Apparels Pvt. Ltd. is an upcoming manufacturer of a clothing line targeted at women aged between 18 and 40. SAAJ not only wants to develop the clothing line, but supports it with advertising and promotion campaigns. The organization plans to strengthen its partnership with retailers by developing brand awareness. SAAJ intends to market its line as an alternative to existing clothing lines, and differentiate itself by marketing strategies, exclusiveness, and high brand awareness. The key message associated with the SAAJ line is classy, versatile, and quality clothing. The company's promotional plan is diverse and includes a range of marketing communications. In the future, the company hopes to develop lines of accessories which will include jewellery, handbags, watches, etc.
Year of Establishment 2012Nature of Business Manufacturer of Ready-made
garments (Women’s Wear) Corporate Status PartnershipChief Executive Officer Ms. Swati DangInvestors & Bankers Mr. J.K Sharma
Oriental Bank of Commerce
Partners Ms. Swati Dang
Mr. J. K Sharma
Annual Production Capacity approx. 2,00,000 piecesPresence in the Country Delhi
ORGANIZATION BRIEF
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SAAJ APPARELS PRIVATE LMITED has introduced itself in 2012 to dress Indian women with elegant, fashionable yet traditional embroidered apparels. The collection includes kurtis, tunics and tops in vibrant-to-soothing shades. SAAJ specialises in machine embroidery apparels with a modern and contemporary look with the use of fabrics like cotton, silks, chiffons, georgettes, velvets etc. In future organization will be specialized in hand embroidery apparels as well. The accent here is on fashionable yet affordable designer apparels ranging from small-to-plus sizes. The Company’s philosophy from the beginning has been to offer outstanding delivery of garments, the highest quality products offering on the price of its worth and the best customer service available.
VISION
The vision of the organization is to provide fashionable yet traditional apparels for women, based on elegance and quality.
MISSION STATEMENT
The organization’s mission is to provide its customers value for their money and to contribute in the India’s economic growth in the Indian Apparel Industry.
LEGAL BUSINESS DESCRIPTION
SAAJ has been founded as an apparel manufacturer with principal office located in Punjabi Bagh, New Delhi. All operations, from administration to marketing strategies, take place at this leased office location of approximately 175 yards (25 square feets).
The location of the manufacturing unit is KUNDLI, HARYANA. The unit is in the area of 9000 square feet.
SOURCES OF FUNDS
ORIENTAL BANK OF COMMERECE EQUITY
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STRATEGY
The organization strategy is to aggressively develop and market a full range collection to consumers. The company intends to market its line as an alternative to existing clothing lines and differentiate itself through its marketing strategies, exclusiveness, and brand awareness. SAAJ intends to build on its core portfolio of products and overcome any obstacles by using the company's personnel expertise in the clothing industry.
The company's goal in the next year is to make an overwhelming impact on the fashion industry and create a large consumer demand for the product. The company's goal in the next 2-5 years is to venture into salwaar-kameez-dupatta, one piece dresses and evening gowns. It plans to also license a line of jewellery, handbags, clutches and watches. According to Technopak Analysis, women's apparel accounted for 38% of total apparel sales in 2009 and is expected to increase to 41% and 43% in the year 2015 and 2020 respectively.
TARGET CUSTOMER
The target audience is college going girls and young professionals catering to the upper and higher middle class as the awareness for brands are increasing the most among this segment.
DISTRIBUTION STRATEGY
SAAJ plans to use a direct sales force, organized retailers like LifeStyle, Shoppers Stop, Pantaloons, Globus, Westside etc. These channels are most appropriate because of time to market, reduced capital requirements, and fast access to established distribution channels. In future after 3-4 years, company will open its own retail outlets
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
COMPETITIVE EDGE
In a market where consumers are barraged by advertising and marketing campaigns delivering an onslaught of lifestyle and fashion messages, a brand name is a powerful weapon. Brands have become an increasingly significant factor in apparel and footwear. Many consumers have less time to shop and are spending their disposable income more carefully. Established brand names, with their quality image, make the shopping experience easier and faster for many consumers. For manufacturers, brands build consumer loyalty, which translates into repeat business.
SAAJ competitive advantage is to provide its consumers quality and affordable embroidered garments. Another competitive advantage is the company's marketing strategy. Through the use of college fests, exhibitions, social networking websites, advertising and promotion the company will be able to develop its presence in the market. The company will sell the products in the organized retail sector.
STRATEGY AND IMPLEMENTATION SUMMARYMARKETING
SAAJ will not only develop the clothing line but will also support it with advertising and promotion campaigns. The company plans to strengthen its partnership with organized retailers by developing brand awareness.
MARKETING COMMUNICATIONS
The key message associated with SAAJ is to provide fashionable yet traditional apparels for women, based on elegance and quality. The company's promotional plan is diverse and includes a range of marketing communications:
Public relations : Press releases will be issued to both technical trade journals and major business publications.
Trade shows: Company representatives will attend and participate in several trade shows such as
Print advertising: The company's print advertising program includes advertisements in magazines such Femina, Stitch World, Stitch Times etc.
Internet: Initially SAAJ plans to use social networking website like facebook and tweeter for its advertisement and marketing and promotion. And when the brand will establish a presence in the market then company will be developing its own website. Plans are underway to develop a professional and effective site that will be interactive and from which sales
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
will be generated worldwide. In the future, this is expected to be one of the company's primary marketing channels.
Other: The company also plans to use various other channels including billboards, radio and television commercials.
SALES STRATEGY
SALES AND DISTRIBUTION STRATEGY
SAAJ intends to build a sales team that will be tasked with generating sales leads on a regional and national basis. They will also be responsible for establishing connections with retail outlets.
A key factor in the success of SAAJ will be its distribution. The company plans to use the following retail distribution channels:
Department stores Apparel specialty stores in organized retail like LIFESTYLE,
SHOPPERSTOP, PANTALOONS, GLOBUS, WESTSIDE. Internet store
FINANCIAL PLAN
The company is seeking a substantial long-term business loan for the purpose of developing the clothing line. This funding will cover operating expenses and product development leading to the launch in 2012.
NO. OF MACHINES:
100 machines including single needle lockstitch machines, over-lock machines (JUKI), embroidery machines, ironing stations (RAMSONS) etc. Targeted capacity of the unit would be to produce 1000-1200 units per day.
MANPOWER: 180-200
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MARKET ANALYSIS SUMMARY
THE INDIAN TEXTILE & APPAREL INDUSTRY
The textile and apparel industry is one of the leading segments of the Indian economy and the largest source of foreign exchange earnings for India. This industry accounts for 4% of the gross domestic product (GDP), 20% of industrial output, and slightly more than 30% of export earnings. The textile and apparel industry employs about 38 million people, making it the largest source of industrial employment in India. India’s textile and apparel industry benefits from a large pool of skilled workers and competent technical and managerial personnel. India’s labour is inexpensive; hourly labour costs in the textile and apparel industry average less than 5% of those in the U.S. textile and apparel industry.
India’s Textile & Apparel industry (domestic + exports) is expected to grow from the current Rs 3,27,000 crores (US$ 70 Bn) to Rs 10,32,000 crores (US$ 220 Bn) by 2020.
Domestic Apparel retail market was worth Rs 1,54,000 crores (US$33 Bn) in 2009 and is expected to reach Rs 4,70,000 crores (US$ 100 Bn) by 2020
Men’s wear has the majority share of Apparel market currently (43%). However, women’s wear is growing at a higher rate of 12% compared to men’s (9%), boys’ wear (10%) and girls’ wear (11%). Due to high growth, women’s wear share is expected to reach 43% in 2020 from the current 37% share.
The main drivers of domestic growth are increasing population, increasing income levels, rapid urbanization, improving demographics, increased organized players and increasing penetration of retailers into smaller cities.
Global Textile and Apparel trade is recovering after a slump during the economic recession in 2008-09, and is expected to reach US$ 1 Trillion by 2020 from the current US$ 510 Bn. The growth in trade is driven by increased outsourcing of western / developed countries towards lower cost countries in Asia.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
High growth categories include Women’s casual wear, Innerwear, Active-wear, Kids wear, Women’s Western wear, Plus Size Apparel, Lingerie, Work-wear & Uniforms, Technical Textiles and Home Textiles.
The Traditional clothes market is growing at 11 per cent a year.
Many leading fashion labels are being associated with Indian products.
However, till today, the industry is dominated by sub-contractors and
consists mainly of small units of 50 to 60 machines. India's supply base is
medium quality, relatively high fashion, but small volume business.
THE INDIAN DOMESTIC TEXTILE & APPAREL MARKET
The Indian domestic Textile and Apparel market size in 2009 was Rs 2,18,570 crores (US$ 47 Bn) and is expected to grow @ 11% CAGR to reach Rs 6,56,000 crores (US$ 140 Bn) by 2020
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Indian domestic Apparel market is expected to grow @ 11% CAGR, primarily driven by high unit value growth (due to growth in organized and branded segment), apart from increase in per capita consumption of clothing due to favourable consumer demographics.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Currently Men’s wear is the biggest segment of the market, however Women’s wear is growing faster than other Apparel segments and is expected to gain majority share in future. Kidswear is also growing rapidly with higher growth in girls wear.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
High growth categories in women’s market include Innerwear, Woven tops / Shirts and T-shirts. Ethnic-wear categories like Sarees and Salwaar Kameez also have high growth potential.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Kurtis and Tunics is very much in fashion these days. It is very comfortable and looks very stylish. Kurti (Tunic-Top) is just a women's top. Girls nowadays wear Designer Kurti, Embroidered Tunic and Cotton Kurtas in collages, office and daily wear over jeans, Salwar, Pant, Capri and even a skirt. Indian Kurtis (Tunic/Tops) are accepted worldwide. Kurtis-Top look decent and sincere, versatile and stylish, trendy yet modest. Indian Kurtis will lend grace to any woman's wardrobe. The Kurti is the ideal year around wear. It can be Short Kurta or Long Kurti with different styles and patterns. A Kurti-Tunic gives attractive and decent look to any woman. Different types of fabrics are used like Cotton, Georgette, Crape, Art Silk, Chiffon, Cotton Silk etc. Tunics are a variation of the Kameez of the traditional Salwar Kameez. Tunics also known as Kurti are much sought attire among young ladies and college going crowd. A well fitted, rightly cut Tunic can make anyone look beautiful and chic. Kurtis are usually paired with jeans or skirt. Short and light, Tunics are the prefect dress to combat the sultry summers. Readymade Kurti are available in various lengths, colours and fabrics. Available in various styles like long, knee length, corsets, short kurtis etc., these are much preferred as daily wear. The dazzling beauty of the intricately done embroidery enhances the Tunics, making it a perfect evening ensemble as well as party wears. The famous embroidery styles like Chikan embroidery, Hand Embroidery, Bead work are all employed to design the intricate patterns on the Tunic. Tunics from India are always in high demand due to the level of dedication and craftsmanship involved in making a Tunic.
(Source: http://www.snehalcreation.com)
PROMINENT PLAYERS IN THE SECTOR
Indian women’s ethnic apparel brands are creating a niche by themselves by
changing the face of Indian women’s wear in India.
Some of the major players in women’s ethnic wear who franchise are FAB
INDIA, ANOKHI, W , BIBA. Fab India is the oldest player in the market and
is running successfully throughout the world. These brands dominate the ethnic
women’s wear market in India and have earned consumer confidence trust and
loyalty towards the brand, thus earning trust from its consumers.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
COMPETITOR A N A LYSIS
Government Initiatives ( Cottage Industries Emporium, Khadi Gram Udyog, State Government Department)
Designer Boutiques:(Ritu Kumar’s, Ritu Beri’s, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, etc.)
Unorganized Sector:- Mom-and-pop stores and local tailoring units
STRENGTH WEAKNESS
Effective in addressing high geographical dispersion
Customization facility available
Source of finance-not secure Next-to-nil brand equity Customer loyalty-low Scarcity of skilled manpower-
lack of ability to employ the
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STRENGTH WEAKNESS
Source of finances is fixed and subsidies boost these initiatives over time
Tie-ups with foreign governments facilitating permanent trade of national handicrafts.
Ambience-non-attractive to modern day shoppers are fed on the excellent ambiences of the retail formats.
Standardization defeats customization hands-down
STRENGTH WEAKNESS
Product customization facilities-extremely high.
Highest level of customer intimacy- Relationship marketing.
Exorbitant prices-not meant for masses
Not a robust supply chain- not meant to be a pan- India operation
same-critical for expansion.
NGO’s
ANOKHI, W & BIBA are the biggest competitors of SAAJ, as they are also in women apparel business since their inception. And they have made their presence in the Indian Apparel Domestic Market. In a short span of time beginning from year 2002, W today has established a network of 110 points of sale and still looking for more. For many years, Anokhi has also been developing products in specialised areas such as appliqué, embroidery, patchwork and bead work, which now constitute a significant part of its product range. Together with garments - Indian and Western in design - home textiles, sarongs and accessories, Anokhi offers a diverse and colourful selection of products.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STRENGTH WEAKNESS
Strong commitment towards local communities.
Helps in making its clients self-reliant.
Encourages women entrepreneurs and hence a women can supplement the male’s income towards afamily
Lack of expertise on part of the manpower.
Lack of ambition to spread out on a pan-India or even a regional basis.
Lack scales of economy
CONCLUSION:
Clothing signifies an individual state of mind and the wearer’s economic status. No can deny the fact that western wear is a preferred choice of Indians especially working class these days, still when it comes to special occasions like festivals or weddings only ethnic wear has its monopoly. Cashing on this trend are the retailers and franchisors dealing with ethnic clothes. In the coming three to four years span ethnic wears market is expected to reach Rs 45,000 crore.
Ethnic wear is a term used to include variety of traditional Indian wear like saris, salwar-kameez, lehenga-choli, kurtas, etc. The preference of Indians for traditional clothing has encouraged lot of brands to make inroads in the ethnic wear segment. Though majority of the market is still dominated by unorganized players however, now the organised players have also made their presence felt.
The few factors which have fuelled the growth in this sector are growing number of working women, changing fashion trends, popularity of designer wear, rising level of information and media exposure giving rise to brand consciousness, grand weddings and festivals, expansion in tourism industry with lot of foreigners coming to India and last but not the least the willingness to spend due to increased disposable incomes. Considering this growing popularity of the concept lot of successful brands opted for expansion.
SOURCES
http://www.thehindubusinessline.in
http://www.scribd.com
http://industrialeducation.blogspot.com
http:// Fibre2fashion.com
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
RATIONALE OF PRODUCT
The project focuses on launching the new product in the ethnic women’s wear market. Ethnic wear is a term used to include variety of traditional Indian wear like saris, salwar-kameez, lehenga-choli, kurtas, etc. The preference of Indians for traditional clothing has encouraged lot of brands to make inroads in the ethnic wear segment.
The women’s ethnic wear industry is full of opportunities and has a dynamic future ahead and also people are diverting towards branded & Quality product.The women’s wear market currently has a growth rate of 12 per cent which makes this market segment attractive.
The few factors which have fuelled the growth in this sector are growing number of working women, changing fashion trends, popularity of designer wear, rising level of information and media exposure giving rise to brand consciousness, grand weddings and festivals, expansion in tourism industry with lot of foreigners coming to India and last but not the least the willingness to spend due to increased disposable incomes. Considering this growing popularity of the concept lot of successful brands opted for expansion.
Also i wanted to explore and learn more in women’s ethnic wear garment industry as there are various and different designs, colours, silhouette to experiment with. The future outlook of the sector is also very booming. Market for women’s apparel is the fastest growing industry in India.
LITERATURE RIVIEW
Based on the information gathered from the researched articles it can be concluded that the women’s ethnic wear market is booming and huge demand has been forecasted in the future growth of the market.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Article 1: ETHNIC WEAR RAMPS UP SALES OF RETAILERS
Author: Ms. Swati Anand
Source: http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/Ethnic-
wear-ramps-up-sales-of-retailers/articleshow/5923642.cms#ixzz1DCrkgMAm
Date: May 13, 2010
Retrieved on: Feb 7, 2011
Review: On discussing this article it is clear that cutting across departmental
stores, kurtis and other desi apparel are flying off the shelves with customers
queueing up for the latest in comfortable Indian wear even while western
designer labels fret over silhouettes and sizes for the domestic buyers.
Max, the value retail arm of the Landmark group, has been seeing encouraging
sales in the segment. "Women's Indian wear alone accounts for around 25% of
our revenues," says Vasanth Kumar, executive director of Max.
The Landmark group's premium departmental store, Lifestyle, too has a similar
story to share. "From a 30:70 ratio around two year ago, the ethnic and western
wear balance now stands at 50:50 in all our stores," says Kabir Lumba, MD,
Lifestyle. "Even though the average spend on western wear tends to be at least
15% higher, it's ethnic wear that drives the volumes and accounts for 20% of
our sales."
Lifestyle's Indian wear label, Melange, is doing so well that Lumba says they
will "look at spinning it off as a bigger brand with exclusive outlets". While
there are scores of women's western wear brands in the market, ethnic wear
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
does not have too many brands. Some retailers like Fabindia have created strong
brand recall nationally, but each city has a mix of local brands.
Industry experts, however, feel that the current spurt in sales is because the
stores woke up to the potential late. Westside is among the first few players that
unlocked the potential of this market. "Even for women who prefer western
attire, 20-30% of their wardrobe invariably comprises Indian wear," says
Gaurav Mahajan, COO of Westside.
But the biggest change comes from fusion wear. It is becoming a common sight
to see women combine kurtis with jeans, clingy t-shirts with ethnic print skirts
or tunics with chudidar-style leggings.
Article 2: SMALL BRANDS GO BIG WITH ETHNIC WEAR
Author: Ms. Sarah Jacob
Source: http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/news-by industry/services/retailing/small-brands-go-big-with-ethnic-wear/articleshow/5507013.cms
Date: January 28, 2010
Retrieved on: Feb 7, 2011
Review: This article talks about small women’s wear brand which are going big
and global in the booming women’s ethnic wear segment. A ranch of regional
ethnic wear brands such as Jaipur’s Kilol, Hyderabad’s Neeru’s and Lucknow-
based Jashn is making a mark on the country’s organised retail radar through
cautious but persistent moves to step out of their home markets, either on their
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
own or on the back of modern retail. While decades-old women’s wear brands
Kilol and Jashn have are betting on franchised exclusive stores to go national,
others such as Mumbai’s Isvarah, Bangalore-based Soch and Jole Clothing and
Neeru’s have tied up with retail chains. Isvarah, for example, has tied up with K
raheja Group’s Shoppers’ Stop and Landmark Group’s Lifestyle to retail its
lines. “Volumes are raked in through multi-brand outlets and we are bound to
grow with their slated expansions,” says company director Rakesh Kukreja.
Neeru’s, which was retailing in Hyderabad for three decades, explored the shop-
in-shop model with Future Group’s Central format and Lifestyle since 2004,
and expanded its stand-alone presence to eight stores after venturing into
Mumbai and Bangalore recently. “We are the largest-selling ethnic wear brand
across the Central formats,” says Harish Kumar, co-owner of the Rs 60-crore
ethnic chain that sells saaris, suits, kurtas and chudidar.
The Rs 40-crore Soch, which spends Rs 6 lakh a month on advertising, recently
tied up with Central. It has six stores in Bangalore and is poised to enter
Chennai and Mangalore. Jashn, which has 28 exclusive stores across the
country, is now targeting international expansion. Hyderabad-headquartered
retailer Kalanjali and Chennai-based Nalli Silk’s value-added offerings Lavanya
Nalli and Nalli Next have also tapped into neigbouring markets over the last
year. These women-centric brands are cashing in on the increasing appeal of
traditional dresses to increase their brand salience nationally
A recent study on average trading density (sales per sq ft per month) across
organised retail formats ranks traditional ethnic fashion almost double that of
western fashion brands. According to the study by retail planning consultancy
Asipac Projects, new generation ethnic fashion brands such as Biba, W and
Global Desi have an average trading density of Rs 1, 600 psfpm compared to Rs
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
900 psfpm for national western fashion brands and Rs 850 psfpm for
internationallabels.
Leading ethnic wear retailer Fab India’s director Sunil Chainani reasons that,
unlike western wear for which display is integral to showcase styles and cuts;
ethnic wear is largely stacked on shelves. “This often tends to move up the rate
of sales due to greater variety,” he says. Traditional ethnic wear chain, operate
at price points between Rs 1, 500 and Rs 4, 000 on an average.
The Indian women’s wear market is estimated at Rs 43, 500 crore as of 2008,
according to Technopak. Ethnic wear accounts for 67% of the Indian woman’s
wardrobe and is growing 8-9%, annually. “There is a huge opportunity for
national players to enter in the market. However, the sector poses various
problems such as tastes and preferences which vary across states and fashion
trends that change fast,” says Baqar Naqvi, associate vice-president, retail &
consumer goods, at Technopak.
Article 3: WOMEN'S ETHNIC WEAR BRAND `W' PLANS NATIONAL
SPREAD IN 3 YEARS
Author: Mr. K.R. SRIVATS
Source:
http://www.thehindubusinessline.in/2002/10/02/stories/2002100200740600.htm
Date: October 1, 2010
Retrieved on: Feb 7, 2011
Review: This article talks about the women’s wear brand ‘W’ which is doing
very well in the Indian Market and plans to spread the brand in other cities
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
where its presence is still not there. They are playing very well in the booming
women’s wear market. THE $37 million TCNS Clothing Company Pvt. Ltd, an
apparel manufacturer and exporter, plans to invest about Rs 32 crore over the
next three years in establishing a national presence for its recently launched `W',
a `workwear' brand for women. "In the first year, we have planned four stores in
Delhi (all in different formats). We have recently launched the first store. By the
end of three years of operation, we hope to have 38 stores in the top eight
metros of the country,'' the CEO of TCNS, Mr Vijay K. Misra, told Business
Line here.
Mr Misra said that the W brand was not a premium brand and would focus its
energies on the `salwar suits' category. It is essentially targeted at an Indian
woman in the age group of 23-35. The brand is expected to generate revenues of
about Rs 100 crore by the end of the third year. Salwar suits happen to be the
current national dress code for women and hence our focus on this category,"
Mr Misra said. According to Mr Misra, the market for salwar kameezes (in the
top eight metros) is approximately Rs 1,674 crore a year. "Our studies show that
there is no national brand catering to this category. We are trying to fill in this
gap. TCNS, which also has manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh, intends to
focus on the Indian market instead of looking at newer opportunities emerging
from the African market.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SWOT ANALYSIS
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STRENGTHSDelivering QualityManagement Team
State-of-the-art Manufacturing Unit
In-house Design Team Training Facilities
E-business Channel
WEAKNESSLimited Capacities
Inadequate Logistic & Strength
Insufficient FundsDependence on Raw Material Suppliers
OPPORTUNITIESGrowing Women’s wear
MarketDisplay of products in retail
and department storesBenefits of HSIDC
industrial policy
THREATSSubstitute producing
competitorsControlling costs can be a
challenge. Foreign brands alter lifestyle choices of the target market.
Opening new stand-alone stores will be tough.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STRENGTHS
FHHHF
Delivering QualitySAAJ is focused on delivering excellence in performance and flexibility and to exceed customers’ expectations in quality, delivery and service. We are committed to focusing on our customers, delivering superior quality and offering best affordable prices and the worth of product. Even more, we realize customer satisfaction drives our business, and we are unyielding in our promise to meet their expectations in quality, delivery and performance.
Management TeamAt SAAJ we have a team of passionate, talented and dedicated employees who are committed to flawless service and corporate integrity. SAAJ has an excellent management team, who are always ready and willing to dedicate towards the company. Management teams consist of skilled and well trained administrative, operational, as well as distribution marketing people.
In-house Design TeamOur highly creative team of professional designers constantly innovates on the latest trends and fashions in women’s ethnic wear.
Training FacilitiesSAAJ believes in the best. Whether it’s getting the latest technology in-house or training their staff to get equipped with the latest technology, they make it all happen. The company ensures their employees are aware of the new
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
developments taking place in the textile industry and are regularly organizing training sessions for their employees for the same.
State-of-the-art Manufacturing Unit We possess sophisticated machinery and cutting-edge technology to produce premium quality women’s ethnic wear like kurtis, tunic and skirts.
E-business ChannelUsing e-business channel like social networking website Facebook, SAAJ is spreading awareness of its brand to the masses which saves huge advertising cost and easy access to the customers. Many brands are using web portals thus saving advertising costs.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
WEAKNESS
Limited CapacitiesThe restriction that the smaller players have is that they cannot emerge beyond a definite level. Additionally, inadequate logistics and improper supply chain managements created huge problems for the smaller players.
Inadequate Logistic & StrengthFor advertising and brand building, smaller players are forced to extend their reach geographically, which makes supply chain management more complex. To match with increasing demand in competitive markets, stress on producing volumes also increases. To sustain existence we will have to inject in more investments to our business in the areas of designing capabilities, brand making and retailing.
Insufficient FundsFunds will be a key restraint for the smaller players. Funds have to be spawned rapidly in a massively capital demanding market that is seeing huge volumes of growth.
Dependence on Raw Material SuppliersIt should also be noted that we exist in competitive environment and other apparel manufacturers compete for capacity and quotas on imports. As a result, large increases in demand may result in sourcing new raw material suppliers for which guarantees cannot be placed. The company also strives to create quality
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
products and relies on raw material suppliers meeting their design quality criteria. Hence, sourcing could be a possible bottleneck to future growth.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
OPPORTUNITIES
GrowingWomen’s wear MarketThe future outlook of the sector is very booming. Women’s wear is growing at a higher rate of 12% compared to men’s (9%), boys’ wear (10%) and girls’ wear (11%). Due to high growth, women’s wear share is expected to reach 43% in 2020 from the current 37% share.
Display of products in retail and department stores Retail fixtures have a huge impact on consumer decisions. More likely shoppers will be attracted to a well presented product and are willing to accept the price for a higher value they perceive. Understanding the special taste and expectations of a customer demographic, one can effectively use custom retail display designs to attract a targeted customer base and influence the way they perceive your brand. Retail displays allow one to keep a consistent brand image across a broad range of categories and formats.
Benefits of HSIDC industrial policy With a splendid economic growth, one of the highest per capita income index, sound industrial infrastructure, strong manufacturing base, advanced agriculture sector and vibrant service sector, Haryana is among the highly economically developed and industrialised States of India. The State has its manufacturing stronghold particularly in sectors like automobile & auto components, light engineering goods, IT & ITES, textile & apparels and electrical & electronic goods.It has been observed that the industrial workers, especially the shop floor workers, find it difficult to get affordable residential accommodation with adequate hygienic living conditions close to their work place. Recognising this gap between demand and supply, the HSIIDC, has undertaken the initiative for construction of Industrial labour housing facilities within its Industrial Model Townships. One such facility, with provision for single-room dwelling units and dormitory units has already been commissioned at IMT-Manesar. This scheme
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
THREATS
of labour housing is proposed to be taken up in other Industrial Estate/IMT/Growth Centre at Faridabad, Kundli, Rai, Barhi, Rohtak and Manesar, Phase-II.
Substitute producing competitors.
Also as it is suppliers are mostly artisans and manufacturing is labour
driven, controlling costs can be a challenge.
Also it needs to ensure that the customer service provided and the quality
of products is consistent.
Foreign brands alter lifestyle choices of the target market.
Opening new stand-alone stores will be tough.
Consumers now identify with western brands which are high priced and
are influential in making choices.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
PROJECT PLAN
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
STRUCTURAL PLAN
LAND & BUILDING
TOTAL LAND AREA LENGTH OF LAND 150 FEETWIDTH OF LAND 60 FEETTOTAL AREA 9000 SQ FTOTAL COVERED AREALENGTH OF LAND 134 FEETWIDTH OF LAND 44 FEETTOTAL AREA 5896 SQ F
BUILDING VALUATION IN SQFGROUND FLOOR 58961ST FLOOR 5896 ENTIRE BUILDING AREA 11792OFFICE BUILDING AREA (40%) 4720FACTORY BUILDING AREA (60%) 7072 COST OF CONSTRUCTION 350 RS PER SQ FVALUE OF OFFICE BUILDING 1652000 RSVALUE OF FACTORY BUILDING 2475200 RSTOTAL VALUATION OF ENTIRE BUILDING 4127200 RS
LAND VALUATION LENGTH OF LAND 150 FEETWIDTH OF LAND 60 FEETTOTAL AREA 9000 SQ FRATE AT KUNDLI 2222 RS/ SQ FVALUE 20000000 RS
TOTAL VALUE OF LAND & BUILDING 24127200 RS
refer annex() page () for calculations & main layout
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
150 FEET
60 FEE
T
134 FEET
44 FEE
T
8 F
8 F
8 F
8 F
8 F
8 F
8 F
8 F
TOTAL LAND AREA LENGTH – 150 FEETBREADTH – 60 FEETTOTAL AREA = 9000 SQAURE FEET
TOTAL COVERED AREA LENGTH – 134 FEETBREADTH – 44 FEETTOTAL AREA = 5896 SQAURE FEET
SNAPSHOT MAIN LAYOUT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FABRIC AND TRIMS STOREThe factory has two stores. One is a Fabric Store, One is Trims Store. Both the stores are handled by the store manager. Both the stores have separate QC’s, store in-charges. The Data Entry Operator (DEO) takes care of entering the data regarding the receiving and issuing of fabrics and trims. And there are three helpers in the fabric store and two helpers in the trims store.
FUNCTIONS OF FABRIC STORE:
Storage and segregation of fabric Storage of dead stock Maintain basic store Coordinate fabric flow between cutting, processing, and audit
department. Coordination between the supplier, fabric processing, audit and cutting
department. Maintain account and documents in order to ensure regular flow of fabric
and no storage.
FUNCTIONS OF TRIMS STORE:
Receive the accessories from supplier. Maintain basic stock and maintain smooth flow of material. To check the quality as per the standard and quantity received from the
supplier. Coordinate with different departments for accessories. Coordinate with supplier, merchandiser and purchase department.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
THE ORGANIZATIONAL SET UP OF THE STORE IS AS FOLLOWS:
REPORT MAINTAINED IN THE FABRIC DEPARTMENT
Maintain inspection reports Inwards /outwards delivery challans Approval reports about shade variation, width etc Lab reports as inspection, gsm value, fastness, shrinkage etc Fabric status file Material receiving record Daily issue and received report of fabric Lot sorting report Defect maintenance register Supplier wise pod status report Stock card (stock summary)(period wise)
FABRIC INSPECTION
On receipt of fabric in ware house, then it had to be checked against the pod# (purchase order no. Or order confirmation no.) to ensure that it is the right item
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
STORE MANAGER
FABRIC STORE
STORE-IN-CHARGE QC
2 HELPERS
DEO
TRIMS STORE
QC
2 HELPERS
STORE-IN-CHARGE
QA
with right quantity as compared to order quantity, number of rolls/bales ,colour etc
ITEMS THAT ARE KEPT IN THE STORE:
ITEMS TYPES
FABRIC Chiffon, 60’s Cambric, Pure Silk, Raw Silk, Pure Georgette, Semi-Georgette, Shantoon, Pure Crepe, Semi-Crepe , Velvets, Linen, Brocade etc.
INTERLINGS Micro Dot Interlinings. 99% woven fusible interlining is used.
TRIMS Zippers, Fasteners, Satin Ribbons, Elastics, Size Labels, Wash Care Labels, Main Labels, Stickers, Threads, Embroidery Threads, Poly bags, Packing Material etc.Stocks of sewing needles are also kept.
CARTONS All kinds of cartons which are used to pack the final goods are also kept in the store.
STATIONARY All kinds of stationary items required in the factory are kept in the store.
All the above mentioned items are kept in an organized manner. The imported fabric comes in the form of rolls and the fabric sourced from the local suppliers comes in the thaan form. The fabric rolls or thaans and interlinings are stored in the fabric store on open box metal containers.
And in the trims stores all the trims are kept order wise i.e., for a particular style all kinds of trims required in that particular style is kept separately. The trims are kept in cubical plastic bins. The dimension of the each bin is 24 X 16 X 13 inches. The trims as well as fabric are kept separately in three categories. The green coloured sticker on the container or the bin means the fabric or the trims are checked by the QC and are passed. The yellow coloured sticker reflects material is awaiting for the checking and the red coloured sticker reflects that the material is rejected.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FABRIC/FABRIC CONTENT
YARN COUNT REED PICK
GSM (GRAM PER SQUARE METER)
VELVET(RAYON)
45 X 29 68 X 65 221.62 gm/m2
LINEN 10 X 9 30 X 30 167.43 gm/m2
BROCADE(POLYESTER)
75 X 44 120 x 90 112.71 gm/m2
RAW SILK(SILK)
159 X 40 124 X 91 95.12 gm/m2
SILK (RAYON) 165 X 25 94 X 75 89.96 gm/m2
SHANTOON 47 X 42 90 X 60 83.98 gm/m2
SEMI GEORGETTE
162 X 140 104 X 76 38.94 gm/m2
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
TRIMS AVAILABLE IN THE STORE
All the below mentioned trims were available in the TRIM Store for different styles. The trims were available in different sizes and colours as well as per style.
THREAD
There are various types of sewing threads, which are used in garments manufacturing industries viz., 100% Cotton, 100% Polyester, Nylon, Viscose, Mono Filament, Textured and Core Spun thread. Out of all of them spun polyester is widely used. It is very strong and have well colourfast. It can stand all kinds of rough washes such as stone wash, acid wash with its colour unaffected. 100% Cotton threads should not be used because the cotton threads are expensive and easy to break down. Sewing threads are available in various types of packages forms i.e., Spool, Cap, Cone, Cocoons etc. Among the mentioned packages in most cases sewing threads are used in cone form. Within a cone, length of sewing thread varies from 1000 meters to 5000 meters.
There are two types of thread and both were available in the trim store in different colours and in different TEX.
Sewing Thread It is of three types:
1. Polyester 3-2 ply2. Spun Cotton 3-2 ply3. Textured 3 ply only for looper
Embroidery Thread
Rayon threads Polyester threads Nylon threads Cotton threads Metallic threads Silk threads
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FUSING
The fabric which is used between two plies of garments with an intention to make certain parts attractive, strong and retain those shapes for long times called interlinings. Interlinings are of two types- fusible and non-fusible. Fusing is of two types- woven and non-woven. Both the types of fusing were being used in the factory depending upon the style of the garment.
LACE S Lace is an openwork fabric which is patterned with open holes. It can be made by machine or by hand. Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used for making laces. Nowadays, lace is generally made with cotton and synthetic thread. There are various types of laces based on the style of their manufacturing.
BUTTONS Buttons are small plastic or metal disc shaped, usually round, object. They are generally attached to an article of clothing for securing its opening. Sometimes they are used for ornamentation too. Buttons have to be slipped through a fabric or a thread loop, or slid through a buttonhole. A wide range of materials are used for manufacturing buttons although plastic buttons are the most prevalent ones. Others include natural materials like bone, horn, ivory, shell, vegetable ivory, wood and synthetic materials such as celluloid, glass, metal and bakelite. The size of the button depends on its use. They are usually measured in lignes, also called lines and abbreviated as L. 40 lignes are equal to 1 inch. Functional buttons, as opposed to decorative buttons, are commonly paired with a buttonhole which may either be hand or machine sewn.
ELASTICSElastics are available in many sizes, shapes and stretches. The force required to stretch the elastic also varies depending on types elastics used. The elastic used in the bottom waistband of a jacket, vest or pull over shirt etc should consider using the elastic with more tractability. For pants shorts, skirts the elastic should
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
be of medium stretch. These are also used for smoking in the garment to give the fit to the garment. In most cases elastics are supplied in rolls form.
ZIPPERSZippers are devices for temporarily joining two edges of fabric or other material. They are used in clothing, luggage and other bags etc. No other closure is as extensively used in textile products as zippers. They are made of various materials including metal, plastics, nylon etc.
LABELS
Label is most commonly used to aid a fashion designer develop brand recognition. The clothing brand label is generally placed somewhere inside the garment to identify the brand. Labels can be of different types i.e., Taffeta Labels, Damask Labels, Satin Labels, Laser Cut Labels, Zipper-Pull Labels, Tubular Labels, Embossed Labels, Woven Labels, Printed Labels
DOCUMENTING TECHNIQUES
The documents which the fabric and trims stores keep are Purchase Order copy, Supply Bill, Goods receiving note and monthly stock statement. The above mentioned are the major documents maintained in the store.
SYSTEMS TO CONTROL ISSUE AGAINST DEAD STOCK
The store is managing the stock card to keep an eye on the current stocks and also to keep track that there is no shortage of the material. The stock card is maintained in the fabric well as in the trims stores on daily basis. The card has information regarding receiving and issuing of the material. In case the dead stock is there or the left over material either it is kept for future use, based on the prediction that similar style can be made in the factory, or the material fabric or trims are just sold to the local buyers.
MANPOWER IN THE FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
Personnel No. of PersonsManager 1Store-In-Charge(Supervisor) 2
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
QA 1QC 2Helper 4Data Entry Operator 1Total no. of persons 11
SOURCING VENDORS FOR FABRIC AND TRIMS
MATERIAL VENDOR
FABRIC LOCAL VENDORS Kishan Chand & Sons, Chandani Chowk Nandan Exim Ltd., Ahemdabaad, India
OVERSEAS VENDORS Nice Dyeing Factory Ltd., Macau, China Prabalaji Enterprises Ltd., Hongkong
ZIPPERS YKK
INTERLININGS Locally Sourced, Chandani Chowk
PACKING MATERIAL
Garg Polybag & Cartons, Gandhi Nagar
CARTONS Garg Polybag & Cartons, Gandhi Nagar
YARNS & THREADS
Vardhaman Yarns and Threads Ltd.,Urdu Ghar , India
Madura Coats Pvt. Ltd., Gandhi Nagar, India
Note: The fabric sourced goes under 100% inspection.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENTThe role of the merchandiser is related with all the departments. The merchandiser has to keep contact with each and every department for the smooth flow of the work. The following are the objectives of the merchandiser:
To create market To co-ordinate with the sampling department and getting the samples on
time To source fabric, trims, other raw material etc. To procure the orders To execute the orders To co-ordinate with all the departments
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Merchandiser
Fabric Store
Sampling Department
Documentation
Quality Department
Production Department
Testing
Trims Store
In SAAJ, the merchandising can be divided in two parts:
Marketing Merchandising Product Merchandising
MARKETING MERCHANDISING
The main functions of marketing merchandising are product development, costing and getting purchase orders. The marketing merchandiser has a direct access to the buyers/retailers.
PRODUCT MERCHANDISING
The functions of product merchandising are sourcing to finishing that is from first sample onwards, the product merchandising work starts and ends till the transportation.
THE ORGANIZATIONAL SET UP OF THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT IS AS FOLLOWS:
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
SENIOR MARKETING
MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MARKETING
MERCHANDISER
SENIOR PRODUCTION
MERCHANDISER
JUNIOR MARKETING
MERCHANDISER
WORKING PROCEDURE OF MERCHANDISER
The merchandiser receives the specs and a file of range of the kurtis from design department. The specs are also called a tech-pack. The range has usually 90-100 designs. The merchandiser coordinates with the sampling department to make one sample in each design. The merchandiser gets the design team approval for cost and quality of all the raw materials like fabric, trims, labels etc which is going to be used in the garment. The costing of the garment is done on the basis of specs, sketch and the garment which are given by the designing team. After the samples are made and approved form the design team, merchandiser fix meetings with the MBO’s (Shoppers Stop, Lifestyle, Globus, Pantaloons, Westside) to show them the whole range of products. The orders are collected and bookings are made for them. It is the merchandiser responsibility to monitor the total sampling process from development of sample (in different size sets and colours) to the development of production sample and the style so into the actual production. The merchandiser conducts external pre-production meetings wherever applicable and discussing the comments of the design team to the respective departments.
MANPOWER IN THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Personnel No. of PersonsSenior Marketing Merchandiser 2Junior Marketing Merchandiser 1Senior Production Merchandiser 3Junior Production Merchandiser 3Total no. of persons 9
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MERCHANDISER’S PACKAGE FILE
Time and Action Plan: This is a schedule prepare by the merchandisers for any design that comes which helps them to keep a control on the whole process and check if the process is going as per the plans schedule.
Purchase Order: The purchase order consists buyer’s name, order number, supplier name, total quantity, total purchase value, transportation mode, payment terms and assortment ratio.
Tech-pack: It includes the technical details of a particular style which is given by the design team. It has technical picture giving the details of various stitches, placements of labels, wash care instruction and measurement chart.
BOM: BOM is the list of all material required in making of a garment. Feedback/ Comments Report: This is the report which is given by the
design team the many sample which is made for the approval; this feedback shows the details of the changes required in the sample set.
CAD marker Confirmation of the trim Commercial Invoices Fabric “order confirmations” with approved fabric swatches Hard copy of all incoming and outing crucial and important mails
that may be required for future references Mills fabric report-checking, testing Internal fabric report-checking, testing Design Team approved Trim Card, Shade Bands, Wash Swatch,
Embroidery/printing Hard copies of in/out mails with respect to production Size set-passed comments Internal quality audit reports before final inspection Packing List Dispatch details
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
PROCESS FLOW OF THE MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Packages are sent by the design team/department to the merchandiser which carries the TECHPACK including the details of the garment. Design given by the design
team
The merchandising department works out the accessories and trims required and prepare a Bill Of Material (BOM).BOM contains the consumption per garment.An entire cost estimate of the production of the garment in bulk is made and sent back to the design team.
BOM & Costing
The price is finalised in the design team and merchandiser meeting.
Meeting with the design team
The pattern master works out the pattern of the style.Samples asre developed as per the techpackPatterns and samples
development
The whole range of the kurtis which consists of 90-100 styles are shown to the buyers.The buyer will select the no of styles he wants to buy and place the order, in the assortment ratio he wants.
Meetings with the buyers/MBO's
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
The style is given to the Industrial Engineering Department to work out the SMV values and operation breakdown.
SMV
Fit and pre production Samples are sent to the design team
Samples
Designers reviews and sends comments on the product for improvement or manipulations.
Designer's Comments
The raw material is inhoused
Fabric and material Inhouse
A time and action calender is made which specifies the time period and the dates of all the activities like fabric sourcing, trim sourcing, cutting date etc.The merchandiser informs the design department about the progress of the activities and the updated Time and Action Plan every week.
Time & Action Plan
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SAMPLING DEPARTMENTSampling is basically the process of producing some few garment pieces in order to match the various requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. As soon as any design is received from the design department, the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the product are developed.
When the product is in sampling stage, the design team might suggest few alterations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples. A final sample is made which is the actual representation if the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on. Sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.
FUNCTIONS OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Develops samples and size-set for given order decided as mentioned in the sampling indent issued by the merchandising department.
Calculates fabric and trim consumption for the garment. Develops and rectify patterns as per design team requirements and
comments. Develops marketing sample, proto sample and fit samples. Maintain records for sample development for various future designs. Develop embellishments and embroideries as per design team
requirement.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
TYPES OF SAMPLES
FIRST SAMPLE It is the first sample sent to the design team to get the idea to the garment. It is also known as the DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE. Three copies of proto sample are:
One is sent to design team One is sent to the merchandiser One is kept in sampling department
SECOND OR FIT-SAMPLES These samples are made to check the fit of the garments in all the sizes.
PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE If there is any changes in the Fit-Sample then after incorporating these changes in the design a pre-production sample is made which will show the actual look and fit of the garment.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
PROCESS FLOW OF SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Receives the techpack from the merchandising departmentTECHPACK
Pattern Master develops the pattern
Pattern
Proto sample is developed as per the base patternFirst Sample
Merchandiser gets the proto sample approved from the buyer and sent to the sampling department with the designer's comments
Designer's Comments
Fit samples are developed and sent to the designerThese samples are received again with the designer's comments
Fit Samples
Pre-production samples are developed only in the base size with all the correctionsPre-production samples
Designer approved sample is sent to the production department and the bulk production startsBulk Production
The Sampling Department in SAAJ takes care of pattern making, sampling and Research and Development (R& D).
Research and Development team works out the following things:
What kind of fabric is needed for the style? What about the garment? If any special machine is required for making the style? If yes, what kind
of? How to make the sample production friendly? What can be the variation in the measurement? Whether grading is right or wrong? If the grading measurement match with the garment fit? How to simplify the garment?
SAMPLING PROCEDURE IN SAAJ
The TECHPACK is received from the merchandiser and the copies of it are handed over to the sampling manager and the pattern master.
The pattern master makes the pattern as per the measurements given by the designer and then first samples are made, which is called development sample. (One sample is for the design team, one is for the merchandiser and one for the sampling department). This sample is made for developing the style desired by the designer. The sample is send to the design team for the approval.
After receiving the comments from the design team Fit sample are made in each size to develop the actual design of the style and sent to the design team for the approval.
If the designer approves these fit samples, these are taken as pre-production samples. And if there are changes recommended by the design team then after incorporating all the changes Pre-Production (PP) samples are made for all the sizes viz., S, M, L, XL .The PP samples are sent to the design team for the approval if he finally wants to recommend some changes or should the company moves ahead for the bulk production.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
The final samples are handed over to the merchandiser. And then the merchandiser handed over one of the sample to the production manager to go further for the bulk production and keeps one of the samples with him. In each stage of the sample, the approval of the designer is done time to time. The specification sheet’s technical details are 90% send by the design team. In case design team has not specified some technical details then these are discussed amongst the Research and Development team and implemented by the sampling manager in the sampling department.
MARKER PLANNING
A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from single spread. It is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style, fabric and distribution of sizes.
The work of the marker planning is subject to a number of constraints.
These relate to the nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garments.
a) Pattern alignment in relation to grain of the fabric:
-Grain line parallel to warps or in Wales.
-Grain line at 45 degrees to the warp or in Wales.
b) Symmetry and asymmetry.
c) The design characteristics of the finished garments.
Marker Planning is being outsourced. The styles and patterns are sent to the planner for the whole range. He will work on CAD and develop markers and grading for each style. Then the cutting department uses that marker on the layers of fabric to cut the panels. Planner will work out highest possible efficiency of the markers depending on the patterns of each style.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MANPOWER IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Personnel No. of PersonsSampling Manager 1Pattern Master 1QC 1R & D personnel 2Operators 13Helper 2Cutter 1Pressman 2Total no. of persons 23
MACHINES IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
All the machines are JUKI machines and the multi needle chain stitch machine is KANSAI special.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Name of the machines No. of MachinesSNLS 8Over-lock 2Multi-needle Chain Stitch 1DNLS 1Ironing Station 2Total no. of machines 14
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENTGarment manufacturing is a labour intensive industry. Research has shown that in any sewing floor, only 20-30% of time is utilized by the machine and rest goes in manual handling. This means in order to improve productivity faster machines will not bring significant difference, but it is the method engineering which can bring significant benefit.
Functions of Industrial Engineering Department:
To understand the production capacity of the factory, and to draw up plans for appropriate target output, suitable range of divided labor and optimum production.
To investigate the levels of individual skills.
To determine the time value for each work component under the time and motion study. This supports improvements and standardization.
To draw up plans and make estimates for a change of product or for the construction of new orders.
To obtain an evaluation standard for the order receiving, planning using the time study as the basis of control.
Take note of time period required for executing the order.
To make adequate machines available for making the style.
To coordinate with the production and merchandising department.
To obtain operation bulletin (OB) for every new style.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
CUTTING DEPARTMENTThe first stage in the manufacturing of a garment is the cutting of the material into the necessary pattern shapes. This is the place where raw material enters the production chain. The aim is process optimization and control of wastage. Increased wastage in the cutting room happens in the form of uncontrolled end wastage, unscientific splicing, improper marker and because of the operator.
Cutting production starts with the receipt of raw materials/fabric and then the actual conversion of raw materials to various shapes on the basis of the marker drawn. The cut parts are bundled on the basis of colour, size, style etc.
The cut panels are then send to the embroidery room to do the embroidery on the garment panels and then again it comes to the cutting department for recutting.
The cutting section hence is the backbone of the unit and that is why this section needs to be taken well care of.
FUNCTIONS OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT
To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e., shell, lining, interlining according to the PO.
Checking the patterns with the actual patterns. Draw manual markers. Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan. Laying the fabric. Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with
the cut panels on the right time. Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels. Returning the remnant roll to the stores. Maintaining the records. Checking the quality of the cut panels.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
First of all after the inspection from the Fabric Stores, the Fabric comes to the Cutting Department, as per the style Fabric Receival
Recording of the fabric received is done and after approval cutting order is issuedMarker is received from the CAD department
Recording & Approval
Layering of the fabric takes placeRelaxation is given to the fabric as per the characteristics of it
Layering
CAD marker is spread on the top most layerSteel clips are used for holding the layCAD Marker
Lay cutting is done by straight knife.For shaping the curves in the panela band knife was used.Block cut pieces are then sned to the embroidery room for the embroideryAfter embroidery panles are again sent to cutting department for recutting
Cutting
Checking of the panels were done with the hard patternsQuality Audit
Fusing is done, if neccessaryFusing
Tickeing on all the panels were doneBundles of 10 pieces were made Ticketing
All the bundles were dispatched to the production floorIssue to Sewing Floor
The work for cutting department starts from the point of order confirmation. The CAD marker is outsourced. The cutting department, 1 or 2 days in advance from the cutting date procures the fabric. Firstly the lots are checked against the challan sent by the fabric department for the lot number and the Meterage and shades. After that fabric is issued to the spreader is properly laid according to the specified marker length and width. The number of plies depends upon the type of fabric, its thickness, cutting method and desired height of lay. The no. of plies also
depends on type of fabric and weight. After the fabric is laid QC checks the lay for the defects like Leaning, Alignment, Uneven Tension and other defects. Then the marker is spread on the top of the lay. Before cutting the last inspection of lay is done to check that the marker is coming well in the lay’s width and length so it can properly cut.
Then comes, the role of embroidery to be done on the block cut panels ,those panels are then send to the embroidery room. After embroidery the panels are again brought in the cutting department for re-cutting according to the shape of the panels. After that comes the role of sorting and bundling which is to coordinate and facilitate the production in the Sewing Department. After cutting sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment according to the lays i.e., all cut parts from one lay are given one number. If fusing is required in some parts of garment (collar, neck, placket etc.) it takes place before bundling but after sorting.
CUT GOODS INSPECTION
Cutting requires skilled employees because failure could result in quality problems. Pieces that are too small are incapable of being fixed. If a piece is cut too big, then that could potentially affect the size of other pieces. The cutter should be meticulous about following the pattern as closely as possible to insure that quality cutting is done. To control the quality of cut pieces for bulk production the following inspection systems have been installed within the cutting department.
MARKER CHECKING
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
It is the responsibility of the cutting supervisor to check all markers issued to the cutting department, prior to cutting. This check will confirm that all components required are included in the marker.
TABLE INSPECTION
A table inspection is performed during the cutting process. Every cut block is compared to the production pattern boards. From every cut block the first, middle and last piece are used to check conformity to shape, whether cut markings are given and positioned correctly. If any piece is found to be unacceptable the Cutting in-charge is informed and appropriate action is taken. Layers will be responsible for flagging obvious defects during the laying process. Defective pieces will be replaced before going to production. All results are recorded in the cutting table inspection report.
CUT PANEL INSPECTION
The quality of work in cutting room is determined by how true the cut fabric parts to the pattern, how smooth or rough the cut surface is, material or fabric defects in the cut fabric parts, shade difference between cut fabric pieces within a bundle. A cut panel inspection report is maintained to take care of all the problems mentioned above. This report is maintained by the cutting quality checker during the cutting inspection of the cut components. It provide detailed information about the style, fabric, lay, cutting machine, the cutter and the quality of the cut components.
IMPORTANT THINGS FOLLOWED IN THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT
The cutting room has continuous over-head lighting system that runs through the cutting room for cutting the fabric.
Interleaving paper IS used after every 50 layers, to make counting easy and to grip the lays perfectly.
A sheet of brown paper is laid before spreading fabric which should be of same length and width that of the marker. The brow paper will protect the
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
fabric from the rough table surface. Also, it prevents the lower plies from distortion by straight knife while cutting.
End ply record is maintained by the cutting department to avoid problems of shade variations during part change.
The cutting personnel always wear a mask over their mouth while cutting.
Relaxation is given to the fabric as per the characteristics of it.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SOME GENERAL DETAILS OF THE CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Colour and type of fabrics being spread
Chiffon, 60’s Cambric, Pure Silk, Raw Silk, Pure Georgette, Semi-Georgette, Shantoon, Pure Crepe, Semi-Crepe, Velvets, Linen.
Style and size ratio of the marker to be cut
1:2:2:1
Marker mode(nap one way/nap up and down/nap either way)
Nap either way (as fabrics are solids and symmetrical)
Spreading mode(face to face/nap one way or face to face /nap up down or face up/ nap one way or face up/ nap up down)
Face to Face/Nap Up & Down orFF/NUD
Fabric widths 38” to 52”
Sizes cut in the marker SMALL(S), MEDIUM(M), LARGE(L), EXTRA LARGE(XL)
Probable efficiencies of the marker
85%
Approximate number of layers before it is cut
Chiffon- 80-100 60’s Cambric- 250 Pure Silk & Raw Silk- 150 Georgettes- 80-100 Shantoon- 200 Crepes- 80-100 Velvets- 120For cutting curves from band knife - 50 lays
Number of patterns cut in the marker
6
Total time taken to cut the lay
40 minutes on an average
Machines used for cutting
Straight Knife, Band Knife, Fabric Shears, End Cutters
Machine used for spreading
Manual spreading, no automation in spreading
Sorting & Ticketing of the pcs
After cutting sorting takes place where numbered stickers are put on all parts of the garment
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
according to the lays i.e. all cut parts from one Lay are given one number.
Bundling of the pcs The process of bundling is where all cut parts are made in to bundles. For this particular garment 10 pieces of the same part was made into a bundle.
Daily working hours 9 hours (9:00 to 6:00)
No. of Tables
Production of the floor per day
Min- 1200 pcs; Max- 1800 pcs; Avg– 1500 pcs
Pinning Technique of the marker on the lay
No pinnig is done in the cutting department. Clips are used to hold the fabric lay
Types of dead weights used for the lay
Iron Dead weights of 8-10 kg is used on the both the sides of the lay
Fusing operations All the fusing operations are done here only in the cutting department.
Alteration pieces re-cutting
Separate table and machines are there for the alteration pieces re-cutting
MACHINES IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Name of the machines No. of MachinesStraight Knives 5Band Knives 2End Cutters 2Fusing Machine 2Total no. of machines 11
MANPOWER IN CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Personnel No. of PersonsCutting Head 1Cutting Master 2QA 1Quality Checkers(QC) 2Spreaders(a group of 3) 3Assistant Cutting Masters 4Fusing Personnel 2Ticketing + Bundling 6Panel Checkers 4Report Maker 1Maintenance Executive 1Total no. of persons 27
JOB RESPONSIBILITIES
Cutting Head: The Cutting Head’s main job requirement is planning of the whole cutting section. He ensures regular required feeding to production lines. He works in coordination with the General Manager & the Merchant of the company. All the other people in the department report to him.
Cutting Master: The Cutting Master takes direct orders from the Cutting Head. Their job is the actual implementation of the Cutting Plan. They work under the guidance of Cutting Head. Since these people are doing the actual implementation, ensuring the quality is also their job, like grain line, nap to be properly followed.
Quality Checkers: Quality Checkers are there to ensure the required quality standards in the Cutting Section. They check the Marker by Hard Patterns.
Assistant Cutting Master: Assistant Cutting Master’s task is the Manual Cutting requirements. Here they have to be careful about the cut panel quality.
Spreaders: Spreaders are the people who do the Fabric layering job. They have to ensure that there are no waves in between the layers.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Helper: Helpers are there for doing Numbering & Bundling Job.
Maintenance Executive: His job is the overall machine maintenance of all Cutting Machines in the Cutting Section. He ensures the regular Check of machines & maintains required records.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE OF THE MACHINES:
The maintenance of the machines in the cutting department is done by a person from maintenance department of the factory. He ensures the regular check of machines and maintains required records. The blades of straight knives are being sharpened after cutting of every 10,000 pieces, the blades of band knives are being sharpened after cutting of every 25,000 pieces and after every four months the blades of end cutter is changed. All machines carry a maintenance card and preventive maintenance card dully filled in.
QUALITY CONTROL AND QUALITY ASUURANCE:
Two quality checkers are there to ensure the required quality standards in the cutting department. Proper placement of marker according to the grain line is done by the QC. The lay should be exactly according to the table mark on the cutting table and parallel to the table edge. The tension of spreading is checked physically with the palm, placing the palm gently on the lay. The tension check is done at random as the laying progresses.
A table inspection is performed during the cutting process. Every cut block is compared to the production patterns. From every cut block the first, middle and last piece are used to check conformity to shape, whether cut markings are given and positioned correctly. If any piece is found to be unacceptable, appropriate action is taken. If during the random sampling inspection a cut block is seen to have damages exceeding the stated amount, an additional 5 pieces are inspected. The cutting QC will access the level of damages and decide if they can be rectified. The block will be corrected by either re-cutting or by replacing panels. The cut block will be sent to the QA for further examination and if approved, then is released in to production.
RECORDS & DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED IN THE DEPARTMENT:
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
For all styles records are made and are documented in the forms of reports. The reports which are made in the department are Cutting Report, Spreading Report, Fusing Report, Marker Checking Report and Panel Checking Inspection.
SEWING DEPARTMENTThe final garment comes out of a sewing department because of a set of well –coordinated steps in each of the batches. It is the most dynamic department of all. The layout machines, batch size, no. of batches, method of operation, no. of workers on the floor etc can get changed according to the new style, order quantity or production plan.
Before the actual production starts there is pre-production of garments also. There is a pre-production procedure. It’s the procedure that before the actual production, a pre-production meeting takes place. All the concerned people i.e., Production Manager, QA Manager, Production In-charge, Supervisors and QC takes part. Here the style is studied in depth. All the critical points are discussed and it is to be made sure that the team is ready for all obstacles. A proper record system in this regard is in place for the same.
Then the IED department in collaboration with Factory Manager, decides the batch size, no. of batches and daily target to be achieved by the each batch. Other details such as no. of stitches/inch at different areas, measurement for different sizes, placement of trims etc are finalized and standardized at the sampling stage.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SAAJ follows the Assembly Line/ (PBS) Production System
This traditional method of manufacturing has been widely adopted in the Apparel Industry for the past three decades. Parts of various components after being cut in the cutting room are tied up in bundles and distributed to the sewing floor. This system is called Progressive Bundle System (PBS).
This method requires bundle to be transported to individual sewing operators. Sometimes, factory hires helpers to do this transporting work. But usually, the operators have to stop and leave their workstations to look for the bundles. A PBS may require a high volume of work in progress (WIP) because of the number of units in the bundles and the large buffer of back up work is needed to ensure a continuous work flow for all operators.
The progressive bundle system is driven by cost efficiency for individual operations. The operators perform the same operation on a continuing basis which allows them to increase their speed and productivity.
Advantages of assembly line:
The success of bundle system depends on how the system is set up and used in the plant. Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.
This system allow better utilization of specialized machines, as output from one special purpose automated machine may be able to supply several operators for the next operations.
Disadvantages of assembly line:
Large quantities of WIP leads to longer throughput time, poor quality concealed by bundles, large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory.
Large quantities of WIP make it difficult to track specific orders and provide flexibility for customers.
In the sewing floor, the cut bundles and approved production samples are received. The line balancing is done by the IE and the work is explained to the supervisors by the IE and the production manager. If there are new and critical operations involved in the style then the training is also provided to the operators before the production starts. The line supervisors explain the work and use of work aids like attachments explained to them. The targets for each day are set up for the operators and are recorded in the an hourly production report. Inline inspection is done by the supervisors. The inline checking report is also
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
maintained to keep check on problems. Also a daily production report is maintained
PROCESS FLOW OF SEWING DEPARTMENT
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
First of all after the bundling from the cutting room, all the bundles comes to the Sewing Department.
Bundles Receival
Line setting is done for balancing so as to maximise productivityLine Setting
Bundles are fed into the linesTrims as per the style is issued from the trim store to start with the production
Feeding and trims are issued
Now stitching starts in the sequence of making the garment
Stitching
In case the productivity is not as desired then line re-setting is done Line re-setting
After re-setting of the line again stitching startsStitching
During the sewing process, inline checking is done so as to rectify the problem then and there, if the problem arises
Inline Checking
When the garment is completely stitched then endline checking is done, where the measurement of the garment as per the spec sheet is checked. In case the garment is not giving the desired look then the problem is identified and sent back to the sewing line to rectify it.
Endline Checking
The garments are sent to the finishing department.Sent to finishing
QUALITY CONTROL AND QUALITY ASSURANCE
All Q.C. inspectors give a full inspection of every garment, examining closely colour matching, conformity to shape, workmanship, size specification etc. Any garments found with damages are recorded in the inspection report. Every hour the report is checked and signed by QA, who will identify the problem areas and act accordingly.
If the damaged garments can be rectified then they will be returned to the production line for correction. All damaged pieces have to be repaired and returned to the Q.C. for re-checking within the hour.
Sewing Inspection is done in two stages:-Inline InspectionFinal/ End table Inspection
INLINE INSPECTION
The inline quality check is designed to provide early warning of quality or other problems arising during production and which may delay shipment. In other words, it is intended to provide a snapshot of the status of production at a factory. In SAAJ following is the inline inspection procedure:
The sample is first analyzed & studied according to the specification sheet & style analysis to foresee the critical operation & the possible sources where defects can originate, discussion in Pre-production Meeting and Individually clarify it to checkers & QA’s.
In inline sewing inspection all the operations are checked, in case of any nonconformity or problem is found in the pieces, it is conveyed to the line in-charge / production Supervisor. The root cause of the problem is traced back to operation at which it is occurring. Then the remedial actions of the problem are carried out.
In line inspector will also be responsible for machine setting, balanced stitches and consistent suggested SPI setting and keep an eye on machine condition, which can be the cause of defects.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
ENDLINE INSPECTION
All garments are to be 100% checked at this point and necessary corrective action to be taken. To enable proper checking the approved garment by the design team, designer’s comments on the approved samples, trim card, fabric swatch card, fabric defect standards (clearly marked as “Acceptable” and “Not Acceptable”) is displayed. In SAAJ following is the end line inspection procedure:
All end line Q.C. inspectors give a full inspection of every garment, examining closely colour matching, conformity to shape, workmanship, size specification etc. Any garments found with damages are recorded in the end line inspection report. Every hour the report is checked and signed by the Production Manager, who will identify the problem areas and act accordingly.
It is the responsibility of the Production Assistant and the Production Manager to monitor every End line inspection report 4 times daily and ensure the correct action been taken where it is needed. If the damaged garments can be rectified then they will be returned to the production line for correction. All damaged pieces have to be repaired and returned to the Q.C. for re-checking within the hour.
Documentation is kept on an hourly basis. The information is collected by the Q.C. Executive and incorporates this into daily Quality Report.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
SOME GENERAL DETAILS OF THE SEWING DEPARTMENT
Style and quantity of regular order running in the department
Styles-Long Kurtis and Short Kurtis and Tunics Regular quantity running- 700-800 pieces
Mode in which the pieces will be introduced inside the line
Bundle system is used to introduce the pieces in the assembly line.
Bundle size Usually 10 pieces
Target Hourly productivity of the line
90-100 pieces
Threads and needles used for production
Polyester Thread is used to stitch the garments and different needles as per the machine are used
Daily working hours 9 hours (8:30 to 5:30)
Types of machines Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines Double Needle Lock Stitch Machines Overlock Machines Multineedle Lock Stitch Machines
Daily Production of the floor per day
Min- 400 pcs ; Max- 600 pcs ; Avg – 500 pcs
Alteration pieces If any problem is found in the garment or in any operation and the alteration is done there and then only. As there will be a specific sticker on the garment which shows a number which is assigned to each operator so as to track the operator.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MACHINES IN SEWING DEPARTMENT
MANPOWER IN SEWING DEPARTMENT
Personnel No. of PersonsProduction Manager 1Line supervisor 2QA 3Line quality checker 6Operators 91Helpers 24Total no. of persons 127
JOB RESPONSIBILITIES
Production Manager: Giving regular & quality production is the primary responsibility of the Production Manager. He ensures the quality of every garment. He is responsible for the overall management of the manpower, the production floor and giving timely shipments.
Production In charge: He assists the production Manager in day-to-day activities. He also guides & supervises the line supervisors and ensures the implementation of requirements & guidelines.
Line Supervisor : He is the caretaker of a particular line and is answerable to Production in charge & the Production Manager. He guides & supervises the line operators and sets & balances the line. He is answerable to his managers for hourly targets.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Name of the machines No. of MachinesSNLS 66DNLS 65 & 3 Thread Over-Lock 15 + 2Multi-needle Chain Stitch 2Ironing Station 2Total no. of machines 93
Line Q.C.: They are responsible for quality standards of the garments of the line. They are responsible for keeping the quality checks.Operator: He makes the garments as per the instructions given. Generally in assembly line system, one operator is there to do one specific operation.
Helper: He does the helping job of various types i.e. cutting, trimming and pressing etc.
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE OF THE MACHINES:
The maintenance of the machines is done on regular intervals. Firstly, before any new line has to set for the new style all the machines are thoroughly checked by the Maintenance department personnel. And when the line starts daily cleaning of machines is done, oiling is done as and when required. One card is tagged to each machine where the details of oiling and cleaning of the machine is mentioned. There is one mechanic for each line on the floor. In case there is a small problem in the machines it is solved there by the mechanic. But if there is some major problem and the production has come to an halt then immediately the machine is replaced by the other machine which is working properly. Then the machine is sent to the maintenance department for checking. The maintenance department is on the same floor where the sewing floor is, so that if any problem arises quick action should be taken.
RECORDS AND DOCUMENTS MAINTAINED IN THE DEPARTMENT:
There are many records maintained in the sewing department viz., Broken Needle Maintenance Record, Daily Production report, Weekly Production Report, Hourly production report, Machine maintenance report, End line Checking report, Inline checking report, Line Audit Report, Attendance Report, Report of finished product sent to the finishing department.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FINISHING DEPARTMENTFinishing Process is to check the garment for any defect and to make them appealing through pressing. Garments are check according to the quality system approved by a particular buyer. Finishing is done to ensure that no defected garments are packed.
PROCESS OF FINISHING DEPARTMENT
KAJA AND BUTTON
The finishing department receives the sewn garments. Templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Similarly with the help of button attaching machine, buttons are attached at the marked positions. There is a separate inspection table for kaja where proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any problem found they are again sent back for correction.
THREAD CUTTING
Extra threads coming out of seam ends. Uncut threads affect the presentation of finished and packed garments. Therefore, it is necessary to cut and trim the loose and uncut thread as soon as possible. As soon as buttons are attached the garments are brought to tables meant for the thread cutting.
MANUAL SPOTTING
As the garments are embroidered so washing is not done therefore stains are removed by spotting. Manual spotting is done that is stains are removed with the help of normal tooth brush and the chemical, generally white petrol.
INITIAL PRESSING
Initial pressing is done to remove the creases and to make the garment visually alike as per the required sample. The piece then send for ironing after thread cutting activity gets over. The ironing machines being used for this purpose were steam ironing tables with vacuum boards.
The whole idea of this steam ironing is to facilitate the quality checkers. The ironing makes the seam visible. So detection of any seam defects like broken stitch, open seam, loose stitches etc became quite easy.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
VISUAL CHECKING
Checking of all the garment is done according to specifications. Each quality checker is provided with stickers for marking defects, thread clippers etc. and checker is instructed to check the garments thoroughly, mark the defects with arrow stickers and also to cut the uncut threads if found. It is the responsibility of the quality checker to take the defective pieces for correction. Checkers puts their allotted number on each of the garment piece passed by her/him. All these checkers are given regular on the job training. Finishing executive or supervisor teaches the checkers the correct method of garment checking.
MEASUREMENT CHECKING
After checking the garments visually, measurement of the garments is checked according to the spec sheet with acceptable tolerance.
FINAL PRESSING
Final pressing is done on the garment which has no defect. Based on the ironing instructions, the supervisor gives the instructions to the ironing operators about the correct way of ironing the garments of particular style.
ATTACHING PRICE TAGS AND OTHET LABELS
The pass pieces are brought. It is responsibility of the packing supervisor to provide the tagging operators with the appropriate price and brand ticket or tags. The supervisor also instructs the tagging operator as to where and how the tag has to be placed. After passing through all the checking and pressing process price tag is attached to the garment through tag gun in packaging department. The most important thing to be kept in mind while placing, the tag was to match the size mentioned on the main label and the size on tag or ticket.
PACKING OF THE GARMENT
After the attaching the price tag, the garments are packed in the poly bag. Folding of the garment and putting it into poly bag is done by 1 operator.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Packed garments are packed in the cartons as per the packing plan. Each carton has specified number of garments and the quantity can neither be increased nor be decreased once it is planned.
MACHINES IN FINISHING DEPARTMENT
MANPOWER IN FINISHING DEPARTMENT
Personnel No. of PersonsFinishing manager 1Finishing in-charge 1QA 1QC 2Workers 28Helpers 2Operators (for alteration) 2Total no. of persons 37
Alteration Management: If any minor problem is found in the garment the alteration is done there but if there is major problem like panels are different or if there is any problem in size or colour variation in the garment, the problem is communicated to the QA manager and then the garment is sent to the sewing floor for further rectification. For alteration there are 2 machines.
1 S.N.L.S 1 O/L machines
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Name of the machines No. of MachinesIroning Stations 6Button Hole 2Button Attach 2Total no. of machines 11
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENTQuality control refers to as the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring the garments to check if they meet the required measurements.
Quality points that should be kept in mind in all the departments are as follows:
FABRIC DEPARTMENT
After fabric is received, it is inspected to determine its acceptability from a quality point of view Fabric quality check or inspection prior to spreading will remove the burden of quality responsibility from those performing the spreading and cutting functions. Also cutter’s productivity would increase because the defects are already marked.
If the quality check is not done then following problems can occur:
Extra cost in garment manufacturing may be occurred due to either loss of the material or time.
ACCESSORIES DEPARTMENT
All the trims and accessories should be checked properly so that it should not create problem in production flow later. Quality checks for some of the trims and accessories are stated as follows:
Sewing Thread: Sewing Threads should be checked for good-quality and its strength and the following characteristics:
Construction: Yarn Count, yarn ply, number of twists, twist balance, yarn strength (tenacity), yarn elongation.
Sewability: At least three sewing-thread packages from a lot should be used for at least 100 yards of sewing under normal conditions and a record should be kept of running performance.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Zippers: Zippers should be checked for the following:
Dimensions: Check for the correct width of tape. If it isn’t correct, the machine will run off. Measure overall length with the zipper closed from extreme ends of metal. Tape extensions should be as specified.
Top and bottom stops should be fastened securely. Zipper tape should be uniform in colour if that is important. Zipper should not cause wrinkling or puckering after it is sewn to the
garment. Slider should ride freely but must not be so free that it is loose on the
chain. Check also to be sure the slider locks securely.
Buttons: Following quality checks for buttons, buckles and snap fasteners should be done:
Buttons should have large, clean sew holes that are free from flash and will not cut the thread.
Holes must be located properly in relation to the edge of the button. Buttons should be of uniform thickness. The colour or shade of the buttons should be within a certain visual
tolerance. Buttons should be able to withstand laundering, dry-cleaning, and
pressing without changes such as cracks, melting of surface and change in colour or shade.
CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Spreading: Various factors can affect spreading. The quality of spreading should be checked so as to avoid problems resulting from improper or unchecked spreading. The following quality checks are done:
Ply alignment Ply tension, or slackness
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Bowing Splicing
Cutting: Cutting quality is a prerequisite for quality in a finished product. In addition, cut work quality affects the ease and cost with which construction is accomplished.
SEWING DEPARTMENT
In-process quality checks means inspection of parts before they are assembled into a complete product. In-process quality check in sewing involves the inspection of work from each operator, with a quality standard established to limit the amount of bad work permitted. In-process inspection is to inspect or check the quality of component parts as close to manufacturing as possible and thereby identify the source of quality problems as early in the manufacturing process as possible. Quality checks, for smooth flow of production, in the sewing department are stated as below:
Needle Damage: Needle damage is evidenced by holes in the garment. It is caused by wrong size or type of needle, blunt needle, needle heat, or machine feeding difficulty.
Feed Damage: Feed dog gets damaged because of thicker and sheer fabric, incorrect type of teeth, excessive pressure by foot, improper alignment of feed and foot, damaged throat plate, excessive machine speed.
Thread breakage: This happens from too thick a thread for the needle, too thin a thread, needle heat, operator working unrhythmically, or too tight tensions.
Broken Stitches: This happens due to the wrong stitch type, too tight tensions, a badly formed joint in the seam where the second line of stitch runs over the first and cracks it, sharp feeds and too great a pressure.
Seam Pucker: This is because of incorrect handling by the operator, misaligned notches or tight thread tensions.
Oil spots and stains: This happens in the garment due to the presence of oil on the machine parts or on the sewing table.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Run-offs: Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line in top stitching. This happens due to lack of or badly set guides or attachments, not following a mark or incorrect handling.
Mismatch trimming Finished garments are not as per size: This arises due to incorrect
patterns, inaccurate marking or cutting, shrinking or stretching fabric, incorrect seam widths.
Correct size labelling.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The basic objective of finishing is quality and appearance. Appearance is the basis of most consumers’ judgement on whether or not to purchase a garment. The quality of a pressing/finishing operation can be measured by evaluating the following:
Loose threads on the garment Burned or scorched garments Stains Gloss and/ or change in colour Flattened nap or surface Broken zippers/buttons, etc Unfinished buttonholes Patch placement Embroidery Creases not correctly formed Fabric of finished garment is not smooth, wrinkle-free, and showing its
proper appearance. Edges wavy and stretched or thick or cockling Pockets not smooth Lining showing pleats, creases, wrinkles, shine Garment not correctly moulded, either in detail or total silhouette Shrinkage due to heat and moisture Also, it is very important to continuously monitor the temperature
(surface temperature of the press), the pressure under which the garments are pressed and the time of length for which those garments are pressed.
PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
The quality of packing operation can be measured by evaluating the following:
Correct size tags. Correct carton slip Correct marking on poly bag etc.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
QUALITY CONTROL PROCEDURE IN SAAJ
The quality team has well trained Quality Auditors and Quality Assurance Manager. The role and the responsibility for all are clearly defined. They are empowered with giving stop advice to the production department, in case the QA team observed too many non-conformances occurring or repeatability is lost. Production department then conducts a meeting along with QA for necessary corrective actions. Once the QA is satisfied about the actions taken, regular production commences. The QA team members are briefed with quality system and the responsibilities to be performed by them in Fabric and Trims store, Cutting, Sewing, Finishing and Packing which are mentioned as below:
Materials:
Ensure all the relevant documents (approved swatches, art works, PO’s etc.) are available before doing inspection.
Ensure colour matching of bulk materials to the approved standard under specified light source and specified conditions.
Ensure shade banding of 100% fabric rolls or thaans. After the bulk material is received fabric store will give 10% of material for inspection and 100% swatch cutting for shade banding.
Ensure that all the other material like threads, buttons, zippers, etc are matching with the fabric as per style.
Ensure zero down time in production due to delayed raw material inspection.
Ensure approval of various reports- Visual Inspection Report, and all the trims report.
To send all inspection reports to all the concern departments immediately after completion of inspection
Display all work instructions and standards in the department for quality inspector.
To reject any consignment which are not meeting the quality standards. To increase the inspection percentage depending on the defects found.
Sampling:
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Ensure all the technical details and reference samples are available before starting samples.
Make sure each and every operation performs with right quality. To send all the samples with correct measurement, correct trims/
accessories as per the sample request for good workmanship without any sewing/ fabric defects.
To send all the samples on time without causing any delay in inspection. To check all the patterns for the bulk styles and highlight if there is any
problem in pattern. To maintain all the quality reports. To stop the operation, which are not meeting the required quality
standards.
Cutting:
Ensure the availability of approved samples before the cutting of style starts.
Responsible for cut panel quality. Responsible for monitoring fusing machine setting and doing fusing test. To maintain the cutting rework percentage less than 5%. To maintain all cutting quality reports. Responsible for analysis laying method/ no. of plies/ stickering placement
etc for the new style. To stop the cutting process if the required quality standards are not being
met.
Sewing:
Ensure the job order file and the technical details are available regarding the styles before starting production.
Ensure the machine setting is being done to achieve the required SMV, before the operators starts their work.
Quality specifications sheet should be prepared and hand over at the time of PP meeting.
To maintain the rework percentage less than 5%. To maintain the end line/ in line audit reports.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
To stop the operations, which are not meeting the desired quality standards.
To change the inspectors from one section to the other with the knowledge of QA manager and production manager.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MANPOWER IN THE QUALITY DEPARTMENT
PERSONNELS NO. OF PERSONSQuality Manager 1Quality In-charge 1Quality assurance 7Checker 14TOTAL 23
REPORTS AND DOCUMENTS IN THE QUALITY DEPARTMENT
The quality department maintained a file for each style. In this file all the quality reports of all the departments with the tech pack and buyer PP comments.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
MACHINE MAINTENANCE DEPRATMENTThe maintenance department is a very important supporting department to the production as it assures product quality. In SAAJ proper machine maintenance records are made on weekly and monthly basis. The machine maintenance department people are also present at the time of setting line. If there is any disorder in the machine which creates problems in the line and disturbs the working of the line, then the maintenance department is informed as soon as some breakdown happens in any of the machine. The repair is done on daily basis too. Machines are cleaned and checked by operators before starting the work on machine.
REPORTS MAINTAINED IN THE DEPARTMENT
Weekly Report: Essential items like finger guard, feed dog, presser foot, oil level, needle or other pollutants in oil tank, tension spring are checked weekly. Any misuse or unseen items are recorded with the operator and supervisor name for further reference. A chart is maintained as a weekly inspection record. This chart is hanged on the spool called the check chart for sewing machines which contained information like machine number, name and condition of the machine.
Monthly Report: Detail of machine with their code, model; make other description and the quantity of that model available with the industry. It gives a clear idea about the number of working and type of machines available in the factory.
MANPOWER IN THE MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT
PERSONNEL NO. OF PERSONSIn-charge 2Supervisor 2Maintenance & technician 4
TOTAL 8
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
EMBROIDERY ROOM
MACHINES IN EMBROIDERY ROOM
MANPOWER IN THE EMBROIDERY ROOM
PERSONNEL NO. OF PERSONSIn-charge (Supervisor) 1Operator 4Helper 2
TOTAL 7
DESIGN STUDIOMANPOWER IN THE DESIGN STUDIO
PERSONNEL NO. OF PERSONSDesigners 3Assistant Designers 2Helpers 2
TOTAL 7
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Name of the machines No. of MachinesSingle Head Machine ( 1 & 2 colour) 26 Head Machine (multi colours) 1Total no. of machines 3
This pie chart shows the allocation of the total machines in all the departments. Sewing room has obviously maximum number of machines allocation to the tune of 72% and next highest is the finishing room which has 8% of the total machines and sampling room, cutting room and embroidery room has 11%. 7% and 2% of the total machines respectively.
MACHINE SAMLING ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
EMBROIDERY ROOM
SEWING ROOM
FINSHING ROOM
TOTAL
Single Needle Lock Stitch (SNLS) 8 66 74Double Needle Lock Stitch (DNLS) 1 6 7Five Thread Over-lock 1 15 16Three Thread Over-lock 1 2 3Multi-Needle Chain Stitch 1 2 36-Head Embroidery Machine 1 1Single Head Embroidery 2 2Button-Hole Machine 2 2Button Attach Machine 2 2Straight Knife 5 5Band Knife 2 2Fusing Machine 2 2Ironing Station 2 2 6 10Total 14 9 3 93 10 129
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
MACHINES ALLOCATION
MANPOWER FABRIC & TRIMS DEPT.
MER. DEPT
DESIGN STUDIO
SAMLING DEPT.
QA DEP
CUTTING DEPT.
EMB. ROOM
SEWING DEPT.
FINIS.DEPT.
MNTNC. DEPT.
TOTAL
Manager 1 1 1 1 1 5Senior Merchandiser
5 5
Junior Merchandiser
4 4
Pattern Master 1 1Designers 3 3Asst. Designers 2 2Cutting Head 1 1Cutting Master 2 2In-charge 2 1 1 2 6Supervisor 1 2 2 5QA 1 7 1 3 1 13QC 2 1 14 2 6 2 27Operators 13 4 91 30 138Helpers 4 2 2 13 2 24 2 49Data Entry Operator
1 1 2
Cutters 1 4 5Pressers 2 2R & D 2 2Fusing Personnel
2 2
Maintenance Executive
1 4 5
TOTAL 11 9 7 23 23 27 7 127 37 8 279
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
MANPOWER ALLOCATION
PRODUCT PROFILE
EMBROIDERED LONG KURTIS
EMBROIDERED SHORT KURTIS & TUNICS
Note: The kurti pictures are sourced from GOOGLE IMAGES
The total manufacturing quantity would be 31,200 pieces per month in different sizes S, M, L and XL of different styles. The break up is as follows.
EMBROIDERED LONG KURTIS- 15,600 pieces (50 styles, 312 units per style), ratio of sizes is 1:2:2:1
S-Small: 2600 pieces M-Medium: 5200 pieces
L-Large: 5200 pieces XL-Extra Large: 2600 pieces
EMBROIDERED SHORT KURTIS- 15,600 pieces (50 styles, 312 units per style), ratio of sizes is 1:2:2:1
S-Small: 2600 pieces M-Medium: 5200 pieces
L-Large: 5200 pieces XL-Extra Large: 2600 pieces
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
OPERATION BULLETIN OF THE GARMENT
S.NO. OPERATION MACHINE ATT NO. OF OPERATORS
SMV (MINTS)
FRONT1 Stitch dart on front SNLS 1 0.40
BACK2 Attachment of yoke and
backSNLS 1 0.20
3 Top stitch on back yoke DNLS 1 0.28
COLLARMARK COLLAR Table
4 Make Collar SNLS ROLLER PRESSER FOOT 2 0.50
TURN COLLAR Table
5 E/s on collar SNLS 2 0.46
6 Ready collar sizing ET EDGE CUTTER 1 0.26
SLEEVES7
Bottom hemming of sleeves
SNLS 1 0.45
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
BUTTON & BUTTON-HOLE PLACKETMARK PLACKETS Table
8 Make button & button-hole placket
SNLS 2 0.70
TURN PLACKETS Table9 E/s on button & button-
hole placketSNLS 2 0.67
ASSEMBLY
SET FRONT AND BACK
Table
10 Join shoulder 5 TD O/L 1 0.30
11 T/s on shoulder DNLS 1 0.32
SET SLEEVE Table12 Attach sleeve 5 TD O/L 2 0.60
13 Join side-seam 5 TD O/L 2 0.52
14 Make and tack care label SNLS 1 0.40
15 Attaching size and care label
SNLS 1 0.20
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
SET PLACKET Table16 Attach button placket SNLS 4 0.57
17 Close button placket SNLS 0.58
18 Attach button-hole placket
SNLS 0.57
19 Close button-hole placket SNLS 0.58
SET COLLAR Table20 Straight stitch around the
neck0.33
21 Attach collar SNLS 2 0.50
22 Close collar SNLS 2 0.53
23 Bottom hemming SNLS 1 0.58
TOTAL 30 10.50
Total SMV for one style = 10.5 minutes
There are 100 styles with different designs varying very little form each other Thus, we take Average SMV of the garment to be 12 minutes.
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
LINE BALANCING
An assembly line is a flow-oriented production system where the productive units performing the operations, referred to as stations, are aligned in a serial manner. The work pieces visit stations successively as they are moved along the line usually by some kind of transportation system, e.g. a conveyor belt.Originally, assembly lines were developed for a cost efficient mass production of standardized products, designed to exploit a high specialization of labour and the associated learning effects.Under the term assembly line balancing various optimization models have been introduced, which are aimed at supporting the decision maker in configuring efficient assembly systems.
Effective planning depends upon:
A knowledge of the garments manufactured;
The way in which production can be sectionalized;
The capacity of the workplaces, in terms both of machinery and of the skill of the operators.
Steps involved in proper Line Balancing are:
Calculation of the labour requirements: With good work measurement records, the work content of a new garment can be calculated. The number of people required will depend upon the probable efficiency of the line selected and the percentage of the time that they are at work and doing their own specialized job.
Sectionalisation: This reduces the training times and permits the use of special purpose machinery and work aids. It also has the effect, in the circumstances, of increasing individual effectiveness, since people speed up as they repeat the same cycle many times.
Operation breakdown: This usually takes the form of the element descriptions from the Method Study, together with the appropriate standard times and a note of the type of machinery required. Special work aids and attachment makes work easy and faster.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Theoretical operation balance: The elements are grouped together, to match the number of people selected, in the calculation of labour requirements. No allowance is made for the varying ability of the people
Initial balance: The expected performance of the people available must be taken from the skills inventory, in order to man the line in a way those smoothers out the potential variations in output between the stations shown in the theoretical balance. It is usual to select “floaters” at this stage, who will help to cope with absenteeism and imbalance
Balance control: Balance control is perhaps the most vital skill in a supervisor, with its objective to maintain the highest output and not just to keep people busy.
Also important for line balancing is the pitch time. Pitch time of the garment can be calculated as follows
Total number of operators available = 90 (in three lines)
Daily target for the line – 1200 pcs
Pitch time= number of minutes worked / number of pieces produced
=480/1200 = 0.4 minutes
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
OPERATION BULLETIN FOR LINE BALANCING
S.NO. OPERATION NO. OF OPERATORS (AS PER OB)
SMV (MINTS)
BALANCING = SMV/PITCH TIME(PITCH TIME- 0.4 MINT)
NO. OF OPERATORS
1 Stitch dart on front 1 0.40 1 1
2 Attachment of yoke and back
1 0.20 0.5 ~ 1 1
3 Top stitch on back yoke 1 0.28 0.7 ~ 1 1
MARK COLLAR
4 Make Collar 2 0.50 1.2 ~ 1 1
TURN COLLAR
5 E/s on collar 1 0.46 1.1 ~ 1 1
6 Ready collar sizing 1 0.26 0.6 ~ 1 1
7 Bottom hemming of sleeves
1 0.45 1.1 ~ 1 1
MARK PLACKETS8 Make button & button-
hole placket2 0.70 1.7 ~ 2 2
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
TURN PLACKETS9 E/s on button & button-
hole placket2 0.67 1.6 ~ 2 2
SET FRONT AND BACK
10 Join shoulder 1 0.30 0.7 ~ 1 111 T/s on shoulder 1 0.32 0.8 ~ 1 1
SET SLEEVE12 Attach sleeve 2 0.60 1.5 ~ 2 2
13 Join side-seam 2 0.52 1.3 ~ 1 1
14 Make and tack care label 1 0.40 1 1
15 Attaching size and care label
1 0.20 0.5 ~ 1 1
16 Attach button placket 4 0.57 1.4 ~ 2 6
(on clubbing operation no 16,17,18 & 19)
17 Close button placket 0.58 1.4 ~ 2
18 Attach button-hole placket
0.57 1.4 ~ 2
19 Close button-hole placket 0.58 1.4 ~ 2
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
SET COLLAR20 Straight stitch around the
neck1 0.33 0.8 ~ 1 2
(on clubbing operation no 20 & 21)
21 Attach collar 2 0.50 1.2 ~ 1
22 Close collar 2 0.53 1.3 ~ 2 2
23 Bottom hemming 1 0.58 1.4 ~ 2 2
TOTAL 30 10.50 30
Note: The operations highlighted in grey colour are the clubbed to balance the assembly line.
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
PRIME COST OF THE GARMENT = Direct material Cost + Direct labour Cost + Direct Expenses
Direct Material Cost is calculated as below:
Consumption / piece
Wastage (in %) Total Consumption Price (Rs.)
Per Unit cost (Rs.)
Fabric 2.5 meters 5% 2.6 meters 150/meter 390Sewing Thread 200 meters 10% 220 meters 52/ 5000 mt cone 2.28Embroidery Thread 500 meters 5 % 525 meters 90/ 1000 mt cone 47.25Lining 1.5 meters 5% 1.57 meters 30/meter 47Labels: -Main Label 1 piece 1 piece 1/piece 1Size label 1 piece 1 piece 0.7/piece 0.7Wash care label 1 piece 1 piece 0.85/piece 0.85 Tags:- Main Tag 1 piece 1 piece 1.20/piece 1.20
Price Tag 1 piece 1 piece 1.20/piece 1.20Kimble 1 piece 1 piece 0.05/piece 0.05Polybag 1 piece 1 piece 2/piece 2
Carton( 20 pcs/ carton) 1 box 1 box (20 pieces per carton) 55/box 2.75
TOTAL DIRECT MATERIAL 496.28 DIRECT MATERIAL COST SHOWN WITH THE HELP OF PIE CHARTS
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
DIRECT MATERIAL COST- RS. 496.28
The above pie chart clearly shows that fabric is the major constituent of the direct material cost contributing 79% of the cost. The trims embroidery thread, sewing thread, wash care label, lining, polybag, kimble, price tag, main tag, carton etc are contributing ranging from 0.01 % to 10% respectively. To reduce the direct material cost of the garment, the fabric cost has to be cut down.
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
DIRECT LABOUR COST:
Direct Labour Cost is calculated as below:
Job Cost per unit (In Rs.)
Cutting 0.15Embroidery 7Sewing 3.48Finishing & Packing 4.7Total Direct Labour cost 15.33
DIRECT LABOUR COST SHOWN WITH THE HELP OF PIE CHARTS:
Cutting 1%
Embroidery46%
Sewing 23%
Finishing & Packing31%
Cost per unit (In Rs.)
The above pie chart clearly shows that embroidery is the major constituent in the direct labour cost. The direct labour cost is calculated is calculated by using per minute cost of the cutting, embroidery, sewing, finishing and packing respectively (the calculations are shown in the appendix). Sewing costs Rs. 3.48 contributing 23% of the total labour cost. Cutting costs Rs. 0.15 contributing just1% of the cost. Whereas embroidery costs Rs. 7 contributing majorly that is 46% of the total labour cost. Finishing and packing contributes 30 % of the total direct labourcost.
Note : The calculations of direct labour cost has been shown in the appebdix.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
DIRECT EXPENSES:
Direct Expenses is calculated as below:
Direct Expenses In Rupees Per Unit Cost (Rs.)
Carriage inwards (for fabrics) 1600/32500 meter 0.13
Total Direct Expenses 0.13
Direct Expenses are only the carriage inwards cost of the fabric. No other direct expenses are there.
TOTAL PRIME COST = DIRECT MATERIAL COST + DIRECT LABOUR COST + DIRECT EXPENSES = Rs.496.28 + Rs.15.33 + Rs.0.13 = Rs.511.74
DIRECT MATERIAL COST 97%
DIRECT LABOUR COST 3%
DIRECT EXPENSES 0%
Cost per unit (In Rs.)
The above pie chart clearly shows that Direct Material Cost is the major constituent of the total Prime Cost contributing 97%. This includes raw material cost like fabric and trims and packing materials. The direct labour cost which includes the cutting, embroidery, sewing, finishing and packing constitute 3%
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
cost. And the direct expenses, which consist of carriage inward cost for fabric, also constitute almost 0% that is 0.02% of the prime cost.
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FACTORY ASSET’s BOOK VALUE
Particulars Quantity required Price Total amountMachinerySingle Needle Lock Stitch (SNLS) 68 16,000 10,88,000SNLS(UBT) 6 30,000 1,80,000Double Needle Lock Stitch (DNLS) 7 20,000 1,40,000Five Thread Over-lock 16 37,800 6,04,800Three Thread Over-lock 3 32,000 96,000Multi-Needle Chain Stitch 3 60,000 1,80,0006-Head Embroidery Machine 1 4,50,000 4,50,000Single Head Embroidery 2 25,000 50,000Button-Hole Machine 2 50,000 1,00,000Button Attach Machine 2 80,000 1,60,000Straight Knife(8”) (Eastman) 5 45,000 2,25,000Band Knife(Eastman) 1 2,15,000 2,15,000Fusing Machine 2 2,50,000 5,00,000Vacuum pressing table with iron (130 x 80 cm) 10 26,500 2,65,000Tagging guns 4 2,000 8,000Work-aids and material handling system 60,000 60,000Electrical boiler (4-6 table capacity) 1 76,000 76,000Generator (75 kw) 1 2,56,300 2,56,300Furniture & FixturesPackaging table 3 5000 15,000Spotting table 3 5000 15,000Cutting tables 3 8000 24,000Stools 110 200 22,000
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
Racks 10 15,000 1,50,000Office chair 30 600 18,000Office table 20 2000 40,000Computer 10 15,000 1,50,000Printer 2 7500 15,000Air conditioners 2 25,000 50,000Fans 60 800 48,000Coolers 10 10,000 1,00,000Water cooler 4 6500 26,000Water Filter 4 5000 20,000First aid kit 3 1000 3,000Elmira 3 10,000 30,000Telephone instruments 12 500 6,000Tube lights 150 350 52,500Fire Protect 6 3500 21,000TOTAL 54,59,600
Particulars Amount Depreciation rate Amount Net valueBuilding 41,27,200 10 % 4,12,720 37,14,480Machinery 46,54,100 13.91 % 6,47,385 40,06,715Air Conditioners 50,000 13.91 % 6,955 43,045Factory assets 3,21,500 18 % 57,870 2,63,630Computers, Printers 1,65,000 40 % 66,000 99,000Office Assets 67,000 18 % 12,060 54,940Furniture & Fixtures 2,02,000 18% 36,360 1,65,640 Total 95,86,800 12,39,350 83,47,450
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
DEPRECIATION
This pie chart shows the allocation of the total machines in all the departments. Sewing room has obviously maximum number of machines allocation to the tune of 72% and next highest is the finishing room which has 8% of the total machines and sampling room, cutting room and embroidery room has 11%. 7% and 2% of the total machines respectively.
MACHINE SAMLING ROOM
CUTTING ROOM
EMBROIDERY ROOM
SEWING ROOM
FINSHING ROOM
TOTAL
Single Needle Lock Stitch (SNLS) 8 66 74Double Needle Lock Stitch (DNLS) 1 6 7Five Thread Over-lock 1 15 16Three Thread Over-lock 1 2 3Multi-Needle Chain Stitch 1 2 36-Head Embroidery Machine 1 1Single Head Embroidery 2 2Button-Hole Machine 2 2Button Attach Machine 2 2Straight Knife 5 5Band Knife 2 2Fusing Machine 2 2Ironing Station 2 2 6 10Total 14 9 3 93 10 129
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
MACHINES ALLOCATION
MANPOWER FABRIC & TRIMS DEPT.
MER. DEPT
DESIGN STUDIO
SAMLING DEPT.
QA DEP
CUTTING DEPT.
EMB. ROOM
SEWING DEPT.
FINIS.DEPT.
MNTNC. DEPT.
TOTAL
Manager 1 1 1 1 1 5Senior Merchandiser
5 5
Junior Merchandiser
4 4
Pattern Master 1 1Designers 3 3Asst. Designers 2 2Cutting Head 1 1Cutting Master 2 2In-charge 2 1 1 2 6Supervisor 1 2 2 5QA 1 1 7 1 3 1 14QC 2 14 2 6 2 26Operators 13 4 91 30 138Helpers 4 2 2 13 2 24 2 49Data Entry Operator
1 1 2
Cutters 1 4 5Pressers 2 2R & D 2 2Fusing Personnel
2 2
Maintenance Executive
1 4 5
TOTAL 11 9 7 23 23 27 7 127 37 8 279
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
MANPOWER ALLOCATION IN ALL THE DEPARTMENTS
DIRECT & INDIRECT LABOUR AND REMUNERATION
PARTICULARS NUMBER OF PERSONNEL REQUIRED
SALARY PER MONTH (RS.)
TOTAL AMOUNT (RS.)
DIRECT LABOURCutting Department
SpreadersAssistant Cutting MastersFusing Personnel Ticketing + Bundling
3 (Skill Matrix – Category D)4 (Skill Matrix – Category B)2 (Skill Matrix – Category D)6 (Skill Matrix – Category D)
167.23 per day182.23 per day167.23 per day167.23 per day
167.23 X 26 X 3 = 13043.94182.23 X 26 X 4 = 18951.92167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96167.23 X 26 X 6 = 26087.88
66779.7Embroidery Room
Operators - 4(Semi-skilled-3 & Skilled-1)
Helpers
3 (Skill Matrix – Category C)1 (Skill Matrix – Category B)
2 (Skill Matrix – Category D)
172.23 per day182.23 per day
167.23 per day
172.23 X 26 X 3 = 13433.94182.23 X 26 X 1 = 4737.98
167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96 26867.88Sewing Department
Operators – 91 (Unskilled-61, Semi-skilled-20 & Skilled-10)
Helpers
61 (Skill Matrix – Category D)20 (Skill Matrix – Category C)10 (Skill Matrix – Category B)
24 (Skill Matrix – Category D)
167.23 per day172.23 per day182.23 per day
167.23 per day
167.23 X 26 X 61 = 265226.78172.23 X 26 X 20 = 89559.6182.23 X 26 X 10 = 47379.8
167.23 X 26 X 4 = 17391.92 419558.1
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
Finishing Department
Operators (Workers)- 28Unskilled-18Semi-skilled-6Skilled-4
Helpers
18 (Skill Matrix – Category D)6 (Skill Matrix – Category C)4 (Skill Matrix – Category B)
2 (Skill Matrix – Category D)
167.23 per day172.23 per day182.23 per day
167.23 per day
167.23 X 26 X 18 = 78263.64172.23 X 26 X 6 = 26867.88182.23 X 26 X 4 = 18951.92
167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96 132779.4FACTORY INDIRECT LABOURStoreManagerQAQCIn-chargeData Entry Operator
11221
17,00010,00060005,5004,000
17,00010,00012,00011,0004,000
54,000Sampling DepartmentManagerPattern MasterQAR & D
25,00030,00012,00015,000
1112
25,00030,00012,00030,000
97,000Embroidery Room
Supervisor 10,000 1 10,000 10,000
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
Cutting DepartmentCutting ManagerCutting MasterQAQCData Entry Operator
12121
25,00018,00010,0006,0004,000
25,00036,00010,00012,0004,000
87,000Sewing DepartmentProduction ManagerSupervisorQAQC
1236
70,00025,00010,0006,000
70,00050,00030,00036,000
1,86,000Finishing Department
ManagerIn-chargeQAQC
1112
30,00024,00010,0006,000
30,00024,00010,00012,000
76,000Quality Department
ManagerIn-chargeQAQC
11714
20,00015,00010,0006,000
20,00015,00070,00084,000
1,89,000
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
Maintenance DepartmentSupervisorIn-chargeExecutive
224
12,0008,0006,000
24,00016,00024,000
64,000OFFICE INDIRECT LABOURSenior Merchandiser 5 25,000 1,25,000Junior Merchandiser 4 15,000 60,000Designers 3 50,000 1,50,000Assistant Designers 2 20,000 60,000IE Head 1 30,000 30,000HR Manager 1 30,000 30,000HR Executives 2 15,000 30,000Purchase Manager 1 28,000 28,000Assistant Purchase Manager 2 20,000 40,000Accounts Manager 1 40,000 40,000Accountant 4 15,000 60,000Auditor 2 25,000 50,000Office (Documents) 2 10,000 20,000Peon 2 5,000 10,000Guard 2 8,000 16,000Proprietary Remuneration 2 1,00,000 2,00,000 9,49,000
Total Direct & Indirect Remuneration = Direct Labour Wages + Factory Indirect labour Salaries + Office Indirect labour Salaries = 2357985.08 ~ 2357985 RS.
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
COST SHEET
Total Production RS. 1,49,760
Prime Cost of the total production (Prime cost of one unit * total production)
511.74 * 149760 = RS. 76638182.4
PRIME COST RS. 7,66,38,182.4
MANUFACTURING OVERHEADSDepreciation on Factory Assets Factory Indirect labourOther Factory Overheads (Assumed)Factory Utility BillFuel Charges
RS. 11,17,975 7,63,000 * 12 = RS. 91,56,000 15,000 * 12 = RS. 1,80,000 80,000 * 12 = RS. 9,60,000 35,000 * 12 = RS. 4,20,000
TOTAL MANUFACTURING OVERHEADS RS. 1,18,33,975
COST OF PRODUCTION/ GROSS MANUFACTURING COST= PRIME COST + MANUFACTURING COST
OR, COST OF GOODS SOLD (COGS)
RS. 8,84,72,157.4
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
SELLING & ADMINISTRATION OVERHEADSOffice Indirect LabourDepreciation on Office AssetsMonthly Advertising ExpenditureOther selling & Distribution overheads
RS. 9,49,000 * 12 = RS. 1,13,88,000 RS. 1,21,375 RS. 6,000 * 12 = RS. 72,000 RS. 4,500 * 12 = RS. 54,000
TOTAL SELLING & ADMINISTRATION OVERHEADS RS. 1,16,35,375
COST OF SALES (COS) = COGS + SELLING & ADMINISTRATION OVERHEADS
RS. 10,01,07,532.4
OTHER OVERHEADSInterest On Loan (12.75% of 1,00,00,000) RS. 12,75,000
TOTAL COST = COS + INTEREST ON LOAN RS. 10,13,82,532.4
Assumptions: (1) Opening stock of WIP = Closing stock of WIP
(2) Opening stock of finished goods = Closing stock of finished goods
Swati Dang(GM 4)DGM-9041
APPENDIX
SKILL MATRIX OF SAAJ
Category Code Wages/DayUnskilled labour wages D Rs.167.23
Semi-skilled labour wages C Rs.172.23
Skilled labour wages B Rs.182.23
Highly Skilled labour wages A Rs.192.23
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Operators for manual operations like folding, layering, transfering, thread cutting, checking , fusing ,ticketing, bundling etc
Sewing operators for simple operations.PressingCutting
Operators for complicated operationsHand embroidery personnelCompicated cutting operations
Measurement CheckingHand embroidery personnelSewing operators for complicated operations
Highly skilled
(A)
Skilled (B)
Unskilled (D)Semi-skilled
(C)
CALCULATION OF DIRECT LABOUR COST
CUTTING
Per minute cost of cutting = total salary of operators/ no of minutes in month of operators
Cost per unit of cutting = per minute cost of cutting X SMV of cutting
SMV OF CUTTING
MARKER = 6 PIECES
1 LAYER = 6 PIECES
AVG NO OF LAYERS SPREAD = 150 LAYERS
(COTTON = 250, CHIFFON = 100, GEORGETTE = 100, SILK 150 )
THUS 150 LAYES = 150 x 6 = 900 PIECES
TIME TAKEN TO SPREAD 1 LAYER = 1 MINUTE
THEREFORE, 900 PIECES = 150 MINUTES
1 PIECE LAYERING TIME = 150/900 = 0.16 MINUTES
AVERAGE TIME TAKEN TO CUT THE LAYS = 40 MINUTES
TIME TAKEN TO CUT 900 PIECES = 40 MINUTES
THEREFORE TIME TAKEN TO CUT ONE PIECE = 40/900
1 PIECE CUTTING TIME = 400/900 = 0.04 MINUTES
BUNDLE AND TICKETING TIME FOR 900 PIECES = 3 HOURS
= 3 x 60 MINUTES
= 180 MINUTES
THUS, BUNDLING & TICKETING TIME PER PIECE = 180/900
1 PIECE BUNDLING & TICKETING TIME = 180/900 = 0.20 MINUTES
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
THUS SMV OF CUTTING = 0.16 MIN + 0.04 MIN + 0.20 MIN = 0.4 MINTS
Personnel in cutting No. of Persons Category Total Wages
Spreaders(a group of 3) 3 D 167.23 X 26 X 3 = 13043.94
Assistant Cutting Masters 4 B 182.23 X 26 X 4 = 18951.92
Fusing Personnel 2 D 167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96
Ticketing + Bundling 6 D 167.23 X 26 X 6 = 26087.88
Total 15 66779.7
Thus, per minute cost cutting = total salary of operators/ (no of minutes in month x no. of operators)
= 66779.7/12480 x 15 = 66779.7/187200
Cost per unit of cutting = per minute cost of cutting X SMV of cutting
= Rs. 0.36/mint X 0.4 mint = Rs. 0.15
EMBROIDERY
Personnel No. of Persons Category Total Wages
Operators 4Semi-skilled-3Skilled-1
BC
172.23 X 26 X 3 = 13433.94182.23 X 26 X 1 = 4737.98
Helpers 2 D 167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96
Total 6 26867.88
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
AVG. SMV OF EMBROIDERY = 20 MINTS
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
Per minute cost of embroidery = total salary of operators/ (no of minutes in month x no. of operators)
= 26867.88/(12480 X 6)
= 26867.88/ 74880 = 0.35
Cost per unit = per minute cost of embroidery X smv of embroidery
= Rs. 0.35/mint X 20 mint = Rs.7
SEWING
Personnel No. of Persons Category Total Wages
Operators 91Unskilled-61Semi-skilled-20Skilled-10
DCB
167.23 X 26 X 61 = 265226.78172.23 X 26 X 20 = 89559.6182.23 X 26 X 10 = 47379.8
Helpers 24 D 167.23 X 26 X 4 = 17391.92
Total 115 419558.1
AVERAGE SMV OF SEWING = 12 MINTS
Thus, Per minute cost of sewing = total salary of operators/ (no of minutes in month x no. of operators)
= 419558.1/(12480 X 115)
= 419558.1/ 1435200 = 0.29
Cost per unit = per minute cost of cutting X smv of cutting
= Rs. 0.29/mint X 12 mint = Rs.3.48
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
FINISHING
Personnel No. of Persons Category Total Wages
Operators (Workers)
28Unskilled-18Semi-skilled-6Skilled-4
DCB
167.23 X 26 X 18 = 78263.64172.23 X 26 X 6 = 26867.88182.23 X 26 X 4 = 18951.92
Workers 2 D 167.23 X 26 X 2 = 8695.96
Total 30 132779.4
Operation SMV in mint
Kaja and button 1.44Thread cutting 1Manual spotting 1.5Initial pressing 2Visual checking 1Measurement checking 1.5Final pressing 2.5Attaching price tags and other labels 0.5Packing of the garment 2Total 13.44
THUS SMV OF FINISHING = 13.44 MINTS
Thus, Per minute cost of finishing = total salary of operators/ (no of minutes in month x NO OF OPERATORS)
= 132779.4/ (12480 x 30) = 132779.4/374400
Cost per unit = per minute cost of finishing X smv of finishing
= Rs.0.35 /mint X 13.44 mint = Rs. 4.7
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:Power: 18 KWMax. Steam output: 24 kg/hrOperating Pressure: 5 barSteam Connection: 1Suitable for no. of irons: 4-8Dimension: 400 x 750 x 1000 mm
BOILER TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION
RAMSONS ELECTRICAL BOILER(4 TABLE CAPACITY)
Swati Dang(GM 4)
DGM-9041
