stone's new superlative coat and vest system, based upon

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Ac STONE'S'& -r^ t i \ n a c^ *

NEW SUPERLATIVE

Coat and Vest SystemBASED UPON

THE PROPORTIONS OF THE HUMAN FORM

, . BY

CHAS. J. STONECHICAGO, ILL.

Giving the Correct Proportions for Forms of all Sizes, Illustrated with Sixty-five Diagrams,

Accompanied by Full Instructions for Drafting the Various Styles of

Gentlemen's Coats and Vests.

PUBLISHED BYTHE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL

CHICAGO

89510Library orGonaress

twu Copies Received

DEC 171900—-, Copynght autre

<3L, 2/0^9SECONO COPY

Oetaramd to

ORDER DIVISION

0^24 1900

Mo

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Copyright, igoo,

By the Chas J.Stone Co Cutting School

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I

DEDICATION.

c^* 8^* e^* s^*

To the modern cutter who believes in the

Sartorial Art, I dedicate this work,

trusting that he will accept it as a

token of appreciation and esteem.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS

Preface,

The Skeleton,

Proportions, Heights,

Widths,

Combination of Height and Width,

Proportions of the Body,

The Coat; a Comparative View,

Mapping,

Three-Button Sack Coat, close-fitting,

Four-Button Sack Coat, loose fitting,

Bicycle Coat,

Double-Breasted Sack Coat, .

Three-Button Cutaway Frock,

Three-Button Business Cutaway Frock,

Double-Breasted Frock,

Full Dress Coat, .

Tuxedo (by Stone's Short Measure Method),

Clerical Coat (by Superlative, Proportion and

Shoulder Measure Methods),

Single-Breasted Four-Button Sack (for cor-

pulent figure, one-half inch erect),

Three-Button Cutaway Frock (for a corpu-

lent figure),

One-Button Cutaway Frock (by Superlative

Shoulder Measure Method),

Double-Breasted Frock Coat (for corpulent

figure),

Double-Breasted Frock Coat (by Superlative,

Proportion and Short-Measure Method),

Sack Overcoat (medium close-fitting),

Single-Breasted Sack Overcoat (medium

loose-fitting),

Single-Breasted Sack Overcoat (loose-fitting),

Surtout Overcoat (Superlative Shoulder

Measure Method),

Double-Breasted Paletot (by Superlative

Shoulder Measure Method),

Double-Breasted Paddock,

Double-Breasted Paddock,

Old-Style Inverness Coat,

PAGE

7

8-1

1

12-13

14-15

16-17

18-19

20-21

22—23

24-25

26-27

28-29

30-31

32-33

34-3 5

36-37

38-39

40-41

42-43

44-45

46-47

48-49

50-51

52-53

54-55

56-57

58-59

6o-5i

62-63

64-65

66-67

68-69

PAGE

New-Style Inverness Coat, . . 70-71

Raglan Overcoat, . . 72-73

The Raglan Sleeve, . . 74

Sleeves, . . . 75

Normal Sleeve, . . .76Sleeve for Larger Scye than Normal, jj

Sleeve for a Fat Man's Coat, . 78

Variations in Sleeves, . . 79

Combination Cape Method, . 80-81

Vests, .... 82

Single-Breasted Vest for Normal Figure, S2-83

Full Dress Vest, . . . 84-85

Double-Breasted Vest, . . 86-87

Double-Breasted, No-Collar Vest, . 88-89

Vest for Corpulent Figure, . 90-91

Double-Breasted Vest for Corpulent Figure, 92-93

Theorizing, ... 94

Variations in the Slope of the Shoulder, 94-95

The Neck Gorge, ^ . 96-97

Stoop and Square Shoulders, . 98-99

Changes in the Neck Gorge, . 1 00-101

Disproportionate Proportions, 102-103

Stooping and Erect Figures, 104-105

Variations in Neck and Shoulders, 106-107

Comparison of Large and Small Waist, 108-109

Blade, Shoulder and Waist Suppres-

sion, . . . IIO-III

One Shoulder Lower than the Other,

""Sack Coat, . . 11 2-1 13

One Shoulder Lower thua the Cher,

Frock Coat, . . 114-115

Attitude, . . . .1 1 6-1 17

How to Cut Loose-Fitting Coats, 1 1 8-1 19

How to Cut Loose-Fitting Coats, 120-121

Superlative Works on Cutting, . 122

Terms for Instructions in Cutting, . 123

Patterns for Men's and Women's Garments, 1 24

Tailors' Squares and Measures, . 125

Cutters' and Tailors' Shears, . 126

Practical Cutter and Tailor, . 127

PREFACE

During the last twenty-five years almost all trades have been doubled in capacity of output.

In the field of garment cutting as great changes have been taking place: competition has

become acute, not only demanding greater expedition in the work of cutting, but also more

accurate and finer work; old cutters have been left behind, old methods superseded, old

systems abandoned. This is inevitable. All things change, and the law of their change is

that they shall change for the better, otherwise they are on the road to extinction.

So that while a system may have answered all the requirements of first-class cutting but a

short time ago, to-day it may be lacking in every essential that a first-rate system should

possess. Systems which have for basis unsound or inadequate principles cannot keep abreast

of progress; and how can they do so when they have no basic principles whatever, being little

more than a conglomeration of rules, and therefore incapable of further development?

Such was the condition of all known systems when I first published my "Superlative

Coat and Vest System; "it was an answer to the demand for a scientific system of cutting,

and was based upon the true proportions of the human form. It led further to the production

of my " Short Measure Coat and Vest System," and it leads now to this revised and enlarged

edition of my "Superlative Coat and Vest System." The principles remain the same. They

have been developed in harmony with the progress of cutting, making a system which lends

itself to all phases of the science of cutting, meeting all the variations in style, all the new

and strict demands which are constantly being put forth.

Dr. Wampen, the anatomist, was one of the first to suggest proportions as a basis

for a system of garment cutting. Its application has been attempted in many systems,

and has always been abandoned in confusion; only in the works I have published has the

principle of proportions been logically and scientifically carried out. and that it has greatly

facilitated the work of garment cutting, making possible perfect fitting garments, elevating

the science of cutting to an art, I leave this, my latest work, to testify.

It has been my endeavor to be as simple and clear as possible in the explanation of this

System, but the student must undertake a methodical study of the book Even the experi-

enced cutter will not obtain the best results by simply glancing over one or two diagrams.

The System is embodied in these diagrams and explanations, and only the student who begins

at the beginning and goes to the end can thoroughly master it.

THE AUTHOR,

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

THE SKELETONThe skeleton is the framework of the edifice man, the beams and timbers, as it were, upon

which the superstructure depends. The skeleton determines the size, power and capabilities

of the animal, and is formed of a material sufficiently hard and solid for all the mechanical

powers of sustention and retention, columnar and lateral support, encasement and leverage.

The skeleton is a combination of two hundred bones, all of which it is, however,^ not essential

to give; indeed, if we take into consideration the fact that most of them are to be reckoned in

pairs or clusters, our number will be considerably diminished, as far as nomenclature is concerned.

Of the forms of bones we have great variety, some are triangular in section, others quad-

rilateral, others again round, and in some bones all these forms are combined, according to

the uses and requirements on their different positions.

So great, indeed, is the difference of form throughout the bony structure that it would be

as useless as tedious to enlarge upon it here; and I shall content myself with the general dis-

tinctions given them by Henry Warren, K. L., as long, broad, and short bones.

The combined mass, or structure, is simply divided into the trunk and extremities. The

trunk is composed of the head, the thorax, or ribs, with the sternum or breast bone, the bones

of the hips and the great vertebral column or back bone. The extremities are designated as

superior and inferior, and are the arms and legs.

The bones composing the spine or vertebral column are twenty-four in number. Seven

are given to the neck (cervical), twelve to the back or ribs (dorsal), and five to the loins

(lumbar). The combined column, with its intervening cartilages, measures on an average from

two feet four inches to two feet eight inches, independent of its base, the os sacrum, and the

terminating bones of the coccyx. It has, when viewed in profile, a curved or serpentine form.

In the neck it is slightly concave: approaching and united with the os sacrum, it again becomes

convex. There is also a slight curvature as seen from behind or in front, its inclination being

toward the left side. The intention of this deviation from the straight line is not satisfactorily

explained.

Each vertebra is supplied with transverse processes, or projections, articulating with the

ribs, as well as others called oblique, which serve to connect the vertebrae with one another.

The most prominent, however, and those which are most essential, as being most visible to the

artist, are the spinous processes, having various directions according to their various amounts

or directions of leverage in different vertebrae, and it will be well to note carefully the place

of the seventh of the neck, called from its greater projection, vertebra prominens. The fifth

also of those of the loins is worthy of notice, as most easily distinguishable.

The os sacrum, forming the base of the vertebral column, is, in an advanced stage of life,

but one bone, composed of five parts, or vertebrae, which have grown together. The whole

column owes its flexibility to the discs of cartilage placed between each bone, and which are

so elastic as to allow the column to move in all directions without injury to the spinal marrow

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 9

which runs nearly through its whole length. The greatest amount of movement takes place

in those of the loins and neck. The bearing of the figure, more or less upright, is dependent

on the curvature of the spinal column.

To this column—against small smooth surfaces on the sides of the vertebrae are attached

the ribs, twelve on each side, partly bony, partly cartilaginous. The upper seven are called

true ribs, the lower five false ribs, as not being joined like the upper seven, to the sternum, or

breast-bone. Their direction and arched shape downward, together with their increasing incli-

nation, will be best seen by the figure of the skeleton on next page, Plate I. Though the mass

or basket of the ribs presents a form so opposite to that of the living figure when enveloped in

its fleshy covering, it should nevertheless be well considered as the foundation of which must

be built the true form of the principal part of the trunk.

The sternum, or breast-bone, forms at the center and front of the chest, as the vertebral

column does posteriorly, the bond of support for the seven true ribs, to which it is attached by

cartilaginous articulations. In early youth the sternum is composed of several bones; but in

the adult it acquires the solidity of a single bone, though its higher and chief point of original

division may in most cases be traced by a change in its angle. The general direction of the

sternum is forward and downward, its angle varying much according to climate or race, or

according to the habits or occupations of the individuals. The standard average angle for the

sternum has been fixed at from twenty to twenty-five degrees. In the female the angle is

greater than in the male; and so, in proportion, is the direction of that portion of the vertebral

column constituting the neck, more upright in a woman than in a man.

To the upper end of the sternum are attached the pair of claviculae, or collar bones,

slightly curved outward at first, and then inward. They are usually more prominent in a manthan in a woman, in whom we find them thinner and straighten At their junction with the

sternum they leave the small hollow between them, usually termed the pit of the neck, which

forms so useful a point for the adjustment of a true balance in the figure. The outward endof the clavicle is connected with the acromion and coracoid processes of the scapula.

The pelvis comprehends the mass of large and strong bones forming the great cavity

which occupies the middle of the human structure. Of these we may chiefly consider the os

ilium, which forms on each side the great projection of the hip. Spread out in a basin-like

form, it presents a capacious curved wall of bone, projecting in a strong crest forward and

downward, and extending around the form posteriorly. It is surmounted by a powerful

rounded edge or spine for the attachment of large and strong muscles. The figure of the

skeleton will sufficiently describe the forms and positions of the other bones of this region.

On the whole, the pelvis is larger and more capacious in the female than in the male, and it

differs in form also, being comparatively less protuberant between the two crests of the ilia.

'I he arm— which, together with the wrist and hand, is designated by anatomists as the

superior extremity— is appended to the clavicle and scapula, or blade bone, to which it is

attached by strong ligaments. The bone of the upper arm, called the humerus or os brachii,

is a long bone, round in part and somewhat twisted, enlarging at the top into certain tuber-

osities and a rounded head, which, enveloped by the usual cartilage, rests against the glenoid

cavity of the blade bone, fittingly hollowed out, and lined also with cartilage, to receive it.

The lower end of the humerus becomes enlarged transversely, and by a peculiar point of

beautiful mechanism is fitted to articulate with the two bones of the forearm, called the radius

and the ulna, in such a way as that one -the radius—can be made to twist over the other in the

act of turning the hand from back to front, or vice versa. This double action is called prona-

tion and supination. To these are attached the numerous small bones of the carpus or wrist,

IO STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

followed by those of the metacarpus, the space occupied by the back and palm of the hand,

to which succeed the bones of the fingers.

The inferior extremity, so called from its relative position, is comprised in a similar num-

ber and arrangement of bones. The longer, called the femur or thigh bone, like the superior

bone of the arm, is in part round and twisted on its axis. Like the humerus, too, it is furnished

with a globular head, which, fitting into a glenoid cavity, forms a powerful ball and socket

joint. It has further similarities to the above-mentioned bone of the arm, in the tuberosities

about its head and neck. The chief of these, called the trochanter major, is of great import-

ance in its position, as regards general form, as well as in the fact that it gives attachment to

several powerful muscles.

At the lower end the femur, like the humerus, widens into two projections, or condyles,

forming the hinge of attachment to the main bone of the leg, called the tibia; and as the bones

of the carpus and metacarpus intervene between the forearm and the fingers, so the bones of

the tarsus and the metatarsus, at the ankle and instep, are the media of junction between the

bones of the leg and the toes.

To facilitate still further the study of the skeleton, or at least its careful examination, I

present herewith a list of bones treated of in the foregoing, with their clinical and more familiar

names. The student will find this list of great use in frequently referring to the construction

of the framework of the body, and may by this means very soon familiarize himself with it.

A. Os frontis—the frontal bone.

A. The protuberances formed by the frontal sinuses.

B. Os parietale.

C. Os temporium.

D. Ossa maxillaria superiora—bones of the upper jaw.

E. Maxilla inferior—the lower jaw.

F. The. seven vertebrae of the neck.

G. The vertebral column.

H. The seven true and five false ribs.

I. Os sacrum.

K. Os ilium.

L. Os pubis.

M. Os ischium.

N. Sternum—breast bone.

O. Clavicula—collar bone.

P. Scapula—shoulder-blade.

Q. Humerus or brachium—upper arm bone.

R. Radius.

S. Ulna.

T. Bones of the carpus—wrist bones.

V. Bones of the metacarpus.

U. Bones of the fingers.

W. Femur

—

thigh bone.

WW. The patella.

'

X. Tibia.

Y. Fibula.

Z. Bone of the tarsus.

AA. Bones of the metatarsus.

BB. Bones of the toes.

CC. Os salcis, or bone of the heel.

DD. Trochanter major.


1

PLATE I.


PROPORTIONS.

(explanation of PLATE II.)

HEIGHTS.

The human form may be divided into eight sections,

each section being the distance from the top of the head

to the bottom of the chin. These eight parts may be

subdivided into eighths, which gives us a figure sub-

divided into 64 parts, or units. The 64 units of the

human form are used by all anatomists, but there is dif-

ference of opinion among artists as to how the measure-

ments ought to be taken. According to Prof. Charles

Rochet, the proper divisions are made with the figure

lying on its back, the toes extended, or on tiptoe if

standing. This is correct and useful in the plastic arts,

but cannot be applied in cutting and tailoring. What

tailors require is the division of the parts of the human

body which are covered with clothing. Prof. Chas. H.

Weigall's method of measuring from the crown of the

head to the heel is better, although this measurement

does not always contain eight times the length of the

face. This distance can be divided into eight equal

parts, however, as will be seen in Diagram 1. To these

height divisions I have added crosswise or width divis-

ions, and then proceed to apply the plan thus completed

to the art of cutting garments.

The proportionate height of a man is 5 feet 4 inches,

or 64 inches, measuring 36 breast. But the average

height, as we find it in everyday practice, is 5 feet 7 to

8 inches. Throughout this system a figure 5 feet 8

inches in height is taken as a standard.

The different lengths, as shown in Diagram 1, are

follows:

From the crown of the head to the bottom of the

chin, as to 1 on Diagram, is one-eighth of the

entire height

From the bottom of the chin to the top of the

shoulders, as from 1 to 2 on Diagram, is g3* of

the entire height, and to the bottom of the

sternum, as from 1 to 3, is one-eighth

From the bottom of the sternum to just above the

navel and to the hollow of waist, as from 3 to

4 on Diagram, is one-eighth

From the hollow of waist just above the navel to

the commencement of the lower limbs, as from

4 to s on Diagram, is one-eighth

From the commencement of the lower limbs to the

middle of the thigh, as from 5 to 7, is one-eighth

From the middle of the thigh to the bottom of the

knee, as from 7 to 8 on Diagram, is one-eighth

From the bottom of the knee to the bottom of the

calf, as from 8 to 9 on Diagram, is one-eighth

From the bottom of the calf to the small of the

ankle, as from 9 to 10 on Diagram, is one-

sixteenth

From the small of the ankle to the sole of the foot,

as from 10 to n on Diagram, is one-sixteenth

Total


PLATE II.

Alpha Paramount Cut 101.

COPYRIGHTED, 1893, BY CHAS. J. STONE.

H STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

PROPORTIONS.(explanation OF PLATE III.)

WIDTHS.

We have seen how the human form is divided in

heights. In order that this theory of proportions may

be applied in the art of cutting it must be divided in

widths. How I accomplish this will be seen in Diagram

2. Here the body is divided into 16 equal parts, six

parts for the front, six parts for the back, and two parts

for each arm. Each of these divisions may be subdi-

vided into four parts, making a total of 64 units, as in

height divisions; but such small divisions are not nec-

essary for our purpose, so I employ & parts.

It will be seen that all proportionate lengths are

taken from the height of the body, and all the propor-

tionate widths are taken from the breast measure. The

one is not in any way conflicting with the other, but

rather the two form a harmonious whole. A man is in

proportion when all the different lengths of the body

are in proportion to the height, and all the different

widths are in proportion to the breast measurement.

The proportion is not between the height and the breast

measure, as some cutters seem to think. Thus, a manmay be 5 feet 4 inches tall and measure 36 breast, or 6

feet 4 inches tall and measure 36 breast, and still be in

proportion. Or a man may be 5 feet 8 inches in height

and 36 breast, or the same height and 46 breast, and be

in proportion.

Prof. Weigall enumerates the widths of the different

parts of the body as follows:

The width of the neck across is half a head.

The width to the setting on the shoulders is one head

and one-half.

The width across the shoulders is two heads. This

will also form an equilateral triangle with the navel.

Under the armpits it is one head and a half.

Across the waist one head and a quarter.

The width of the top of the thigh is three-fourths of

a head.

Across the top of the knee is half a head.

Across the bottom of the knee is also half a head.

Across the calf is five-eighths of a head.

It will suit our purpose to divide the different parts

of the body as follows:

Across the widest part of the head above the

ears 3 parts.

Across the neck 2 ' •

Across the shoulders, including arms 8 "

Across the back 6 "

Across the waist 4^ '

'

Across the hips » 6% '

'

Across the middle of thigh 3"

Across the top of the knee 2"

Across the bottom of the knee 2"

Across the calf 2% "

Across the small of the ankle 1% "

The proportionate widths of this average man (5 feet

8 inches in height, 36-inch breast), are as follows:

Around the bare neck *3j4 inches.

Around the shoulders over the arms 41 "

Around the breast 36 "

Around the waist 32 "

Around the seat 37'

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. '5

PLATE III.



i6 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

COMBINATION OF HEIGHT AND WIDTH.(explanation of PLATE IV.)

The proportionate height dimensions of the human form were explained in the preceding pages. Before consid-

ering their application in garment cutting, the divisions of the body into lengths and widths must be explained.

THE LENGTHS OF THE BODY.

In Plate IV the distance from A to C is commonly

known to cutters as the depth of scye. Anatomically

it is called the dorsal length. The distance from A to

B, the slope of the shoulder, is the minor dorsal

length, and the distance from B to C is the major

dorsal length.

The minor dorsal length, measuring three units,

takes its proportions from height, and the major dorsal

length, measuring five units, takes its proportions from

width or breast measure. The combination of the minor

and major dorsal lengths gives the depth of scye, as will

be further explained in Plate V. The depth of scye

cannot otherwise properly be determined, because the

arm development is always in accordance with the breast

development, while the breast measurement is not al-

ways—is very seldom, indeed—in accordance with the

height.

The natural waist length for all normal figures will

be one-fourth of the entire height. For an erect figure

it will be less, and for a stooped figure it will be more

than one-fourth height. The fashionable waist length

is always regulated by prevailing style. The distance

from the waist line to the largest part of the seat is one-

eighth of height, as from D to F in Plate IV.

THE WIDTHS OF THE BODY.

The body is divided in width into sixteen equal

parts, as shown in the diagram. From X to 8 is half

of the coat; therefore it is divided into eighths on the

square, and is so used in drafting. The width of the

back is therefore three eighths, the armscye two-eighths,

and the front three-eighths. From K to L is one-

eighth, giving the round of the front part; from L to Mis one-eighth, being the width of the neck. A line is

drawn from L to N, giving the slope of the shoulder,

as shown in the diagram, the entire width of the neck

being two eighths. We therefore make the width of

the back at the top, from O to P, one eighth on divi-

sions on the square, or one-sixteenth of the entire width

of the breast. Q is the top of the shoulder. Both

shoulder seams should be shaped from Q up to the neck.

The waist in a normal figure is 4 inches less than

the breast. We therefore take out or suppress 1 inch

at both H and J.

In this manner I use the combination of heights and

widths. It matters not what height my client is, nor

what size breast he has, as long as all the lengths are in

proportion to the heights, and all the different width

sections are in proportion to the breast measure, wehave the proportionate figure.

PLATE IV.



i8 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

PROPORTIONS OF THE BODY.(explanation of plate v.)

A proportionate figure is one in which all the differ-

ent measurements, such as length of legs and arms,

height of neck and length of waist, together with all

other lengths of the body, are in proportion to the

height of the figure; and when all the different widths,

such as the width of the back, blade and chest, are in

proportion to the breast measure.

In Plate V, we have a proportionate man. It further

explains the matter treated of in explanation of Plate

IV. It is here that the cutter usually meets his first

obstacle. In attempting to locate the depth of scye

from height he makes a mistake; for although the bone

structure of the body takes its proportions from both

height and width, the flesh and muscle development is

not in proportion to the height of the frame. It is true

that in a mature figure which measures 36 breast and 32

waist, 5 feet 4 inches in height, the depth of scye may

be obtained from the height. But the figure may meas-

ure 46 breast, 42 waist and 5 feet 4 inches height. The

arms are branches of the main body, always developing

with it; therefore, the size of the arm will take its pro-

portion from width, or breast measure, and not from

height.

The size of the arm in an average figure is one inch

less than half breast measure, increasing }4 inch to

every inch of increase in breast; but in fat men the arm

scye will increase only f of an inch to every inch "of

increase in breast.

In the diagram the distance from B to E is one-

eighth of height. The distance from C to D is, accord-

ing to my division of the body, already explained, & of

the entire height, and from C to B is y2 inch for incline

at the neck, making the distance from the top of the

neck to the top of the shoulder 3 units and y2 inch.

The increase for the incline at the neck in a normal

figure 5 feet 4 inches in height is Y? inch. Also, there

is an increase or decrease of i\ inch for every inch of

increase or decrease in height over or under this stand-

ard size. Thus the minor dorsal length will be:

For figure 5 feet 4 inches. 3 $ inches

For figure 5 feet 5 inches 3^ inches

For figure 5 feet 6 inches 31 inches

For figure 5 feet 7 inches 31^ inches

For figure 5 feet 8 inches 3 f.inches



For figure 5 feet n inches 31= inches

For figure 6 feet 4 inches

D to F is Yi breast, the size of the arm (yi of scye

measure plus yi inch), taking its proportion from the

breast, according to its muscular and fleshy increase

and development.

The distance from B to G, Plate V, the natural waist,

is Y\ of height, and from G to H, to the seat, is yi of

height. These proportions are taken from the height

only. The distance from F to P is ^ of breast. Theblade takes its proportions entirely from the breast, and

has no connection whatever with the strap, as a great

many cutters seem to think. It will be seen at a glance

that the strap cannot be compared with the blade, for

the reason that it contains the proportions of both

height and width. The distance from the front of the

scye at J up to the top of the shoulder is width, and the

distance from the top of the shoulder to the side of the

neck is height, while from the side of the neck to the

center of the back is again breast. So the strap meas-

ure really contains the distance from B to K and from

D to F, which is breast. This amount may be com-

pared to the blade, but after adding the distance from

B to D, which is height, we cannot compare strap and

blade except in an average figure.

The increase in size of a corpulent figure is consid-

erably more in front than in back; therefore the divis-

ions of the back must be decreased and those of the

front increased. This is the reason why the blade in

large sizes is not proportionately as large as in the small

sizes. It is in the larger sizes, as a rule, that we have

fat men.


PLATE V.

t^-®A

20 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

THE COAT; A COMPARATIVE VIEW.(explanation of PLATE VI.)

In Plate VI may be seen the relative proportions of

a 36 and 46 breast coat, both for normal figures of the

same height, 5 feet 8 inches. The height in both cases

being the same, the coats must both be of the same

length. As in a normal figure the slope of the shoulder

is regulated by height, the distance from G to n in the

46 coat, and from M to 10 in the 36 coat, will remain

the same; that is, 3 units and y2 inch for the 5 feet 4

standard, and 3^ for a 5 foot 8 inch in height. The

length of the natural waist will also remain the same,

one-fourth of height (17 inches).

The depth of scye is from the top of the shoulder to

the bottom of the scye }i breast, as from 1 1 to B and

10 to N. This must be regulated by the size of the arm,

which takes its proportions from the breast measure.

11 to B is one-third of 23, being one-half of the breast

measure of 46 breast; and 10 to N is one-third of 18,

half of 36 breast. This holds good only in regular

figures, not fat men's.

If we divide the body into 16 equal parts, or one-

half of the coat into 8 parts, we have 3 parts for the

back, 2 for the arm and 3 for the front. A is the center

of the body under the arm, B is the center of the back,

and C the center of the front of a 46 coat.

The Back Section.—A to B is % of the body, 46

breast, divided into four equal parts.

Q to N is % of the body, 36 breast, divided into

four equal parts.

These parts are in reality sixteenths of the en-

tire measurement, and as the entire width of the back

contains six parts, or ,

sg of the entire width of the body,

half of the back is three parts. Consequently the in-

crease of width of the back is 1% of an inch for every

inch of increase in breast. By holding the two backs

even at point F (the side of the neck) the increase of

the width of back from 10 to 11 will be i's, and from Rto L i

26 of an inch. The increase at the top of the back

at the neck will be from M to G, i'e of an inch for every

inch of increase in size of breast.

Y to A in a 46 coat, and Z to Q in a 36 coat, is y% of

half, or'i'e of the entire breast measure, and increases

h of an inch for every inch of increase in breast.

The Front Section.—The distance from A to 3 in

a 46, and from T to 3 in a 36 coat, is h of entire breast,

and increases tl« of an inch for every inch of increase in

breast. The distance from 3 to 4 is ^ of breast, and

has an increase of h inch for every inch of increase in

breast. The distance from 3 to C in the 46, and from

3 to W in the 36 coat, is j3e, and has an increase of i

38

inch for every inch increase in size.

The breast being divided into sixteen equal parts,

we can obtain an easy rule for the relative increase of

every part. The width of the back being !%, there is an

increase of i3« inch. The blade being fg, there is an in-

crease of us inch. The breast being ft, there is an in-

crease of ft inch for every inch increase in size.

The armscye is represented by dotted lines at 14

and 15.

Point 6, the sternal line, is opposite the top of the

shoulder. The distance from 6 to 4 is the diameter of

the scye. The distance from 6 to E is 3 units of height,

and from 6 to 7 is 1^ units of height. (It will be re-

membered that the height is divided into 64 parts, or

units.)

The student will observe that the top of the shoulder

remains on the same line. The back shoulder points

are at R, L, and the front shoulder points at S, K. But

it will be noted that while all the increase of scye in the

46 coat has apparently taken place at the sides and

bottom of scye, yet by extending the shoulders from

R to L and from S to K we have g lined height over the

shoulder point. It is sometimes argued that if point

R on the small back is moved over to point L on the

large back there will be no increase in height of shoul-

der, and that point S on the small shoulder may be

moved over to point K on the large shoulder and the

height of shoulder remain the same. This is a mistake,

however. The lower shoulder point at R, L is not

stationary in different sizes, the width of the shoulder

being largely regulated by flesh development. Thebone structure or frame of a full-grown man, say 25

years old, whose breast measure is 36, has attained its

normal growth, and will not increase in size. Ten years

later his breast may have increased in size to 46. Theextra size gained is an accumulation of flesh and fat.

So the extra width of the shoulders is only flesh, not

bone, and the increase of shoulder is not proportionately

as large as the increase of breast,


PLATE VI.


MAPPING.(explanation of PLATE VII.)

Before proceeding with drafting, I will present the

method of mapping out the coat as illustrated in Plate

VII.

As explained in the foregoing pages, the distance

from A to B is the minor dorsal length, and from A to

C allowance is made for the incline at the neck. FromB to D is the anatomical length, and from D to E is

the allowance for flesh development. The distance

from B to D is the same on the bone structure in all

figures with the same height, but the flesh development

from D to E is according to the size of breast.

We will now proceed to map out a draft for a figure

whose height is 5 feet 8 inches.

C to B is 2>yi inches, and B to E is j4 breast.

C to F is y^ of height (17 inches).

Note.—It may here be argued that there is also an.

incline at the actual waist line, which is true; but it is

also true that the natural waist length on a perpendicular

line is a little less than % of the entire height of the

body, because the head is that much more than one-

eighth of the height. While the actual waist length,

with allowance included for incline at neck and waist,

will be a little more (about % inch) than one fourth of

the height, yet I find in practice that using one-fourth

of the entire height for the natural waist length will

produce satisfactory results.

F to G is from 1 )A to 2 inches, according to style and

fancy.

Square lines C, B, E, F and G.

E to 15 is half of the breast measure, 18 inches for

a 36 breast coat. This I divide into eight parts, as pre- •

viously explained. But by using j4 of the net breast

measure the garment will be without seams, so the usual

2 inches must be added for seams and ease. If 2 inches

is added to 18 inches, half of breast measure, we will

have 20 inches. Therefore the divisions from C to 1, 1

to 2. 2 to 3, 3 to 4, and these sections crossways will be

20 on eighths instead of 18 for a 36 size coat, and so

on for all sizes as follows:

For drafting power use for

36 breast 20 on divisions. 42 breast 23 on divisions.

38 » 21 " 44 » 24

40 " 22 " 46 " 25 ''

And so on for all sizes. The front sections from 8 to 7

are }£ breast net without addition, as nothing is needed

for seams between 8 and 7.

7 to 6 is }& breast less one seam, which really adds

a seam at neck gorge point 13. Point 9 K is half waybetween 3 and 4, if there was nothing added at top of

back. Point M would then fall on point B, if we use

point K as pivot. Sweep from M to N, measure the

distance from N to 1, and move the pivot from K to 10,

half of this amount. By using point 10 as pivot, swing-

ing the back around, point 1 will fall on point 13. Only

one seam has been added to width of back from Ato M.

At first glance it may seem that two seams should

be added to the back section instead of one seam. Still

two seams really have been added when the back is

raised up S/% inch at point 1. The waist suppression in

a normal figure is 4 inches less than breast, so 1 inch is

suppressed at both n and 12.


PLATE VII.


THREE-BUTTON SACK COAT.(explanation of PLATE VIII.)

While this coat is shapely, it is not tight-fitting, and

therefore is not military style. The shoulders are broad

and well-padded, and the front is made up with a short

stationary roll.

The draft is produced from the following proportions:

Breast, 36 | Waist, 32 | Seat, 37

Height, 5 feet 8 inches.

TO DRAFT.

Square out and down from A.

A to B is 3^ inches.

B to C is Yz breast.

A to D is y of height. 17 inches.

D to E i }£ of height, 8y inches.

E to F is 3 inches for full length.

Square lints B, C, D, E and F.

C to 4 is 1/% and D to 5 is ^ inch.

5 to Y is y breast; square down from Y to 23, and add

from 6 to 7, y inch.

C to I is 3 parts, and C to H is 5 parts, of the division

of half of the breast, with 2 inches addition (20

on 8ths).

Square up from I and up and down from H.

A to N is y inch more thanJ-g

breast, and N to O is

S/% inch.

P to Q is ^ inch.

Draw a line from B to H. Point 1 is y2 inch below this

line and ]/2 inch forward of line I. In shaping the

back be sure to get a straight line from the scye

down to hollow of waist.

C to J is 2 J/l inches more than y? breast measure. Square

down from J. J to 10 and L to n is iy inches.

J to K is Ms breast. Square up to S.

S to T is one seam less than y breast, and shoulder

point T is y2 inch below line A S. Draw a line

from T to R.

P to R is J^ inch.

T to U is ^ inch less than O to Q.

H to V is yi breast.

15 to 16 is y inch.

S to 9 is y-z inch more than yi breast.

9 to 22 is 2 xy2 inches.

i to 2 is % inch.

Y to Z is y inch.

7 to 8 is 2 jy inches.

2 to 24 is the same as 1 to 23. ,

Sweep from 24 to W by T.

\V to X is 1 inch.

3 is the center of armscye. Take out y, inch at waist

line, as from 13, 14.

H to 12 is yi waist length (17 on J^rda).

The ticket pocket is $y inches above the lower pocket-:,

and the last button is opposite the opening of the

ticket pocket.

X to 25 is one inch more than yi breast.

Draw a line from 26 to 25.

27 to 28 is y inch.

The top button is y inch above the breast line.

The collar is drafted as follows:

T to 18 is y inch. Draw a line from 17 to 18, which

will locate point 29; then draw a line from 29

through T to 19, for break of lapel and collar.

19 to 20 is 1 inch, and 19 to 2 1 is iy inches.

The collar and lapel at notch finished is i% inches, and

at the back seam iy inches. The back sleeve

notch 24 is ='

2 breast down from P, and the front

notch 23 is y inch above point H.


PLATE VIII.


FOUR=BUTTON SACK.(explanation of PLATE IX.)

This is a medium loose fitting coat, produced from

the following proportions of height and width:

Breast, 38 Waist, 34 Seat, 39


TO DRAFT.


A to J is 3^ inches and J to B is y's breast.

A to C is 17, C to D is 17 on halves for seat line, and

D to E 17 on fourths, full length of coat.

B to I is 1 inch more than y breast.

I to G is y breast and y inch, and I to H is ^ inch

more than y breast.

Square up and down from H and G.

Draw a line from J to G.

Points 3 and 4 are y? inch below 12.

Point 1 is yz inch out from K, and point 3 is y% inch

forward from line X K.

A to L is y breast and L to M is y inch.

M to N is y inch-

Hollow back from B to 5, y inch, C to 6, ^ inch, D to

7, y inch and E to 8, y inch.

5 to F is half of breast measure and F to 16 is 2^ inches.

Square up and down from 16.

O to P is y inch less than y breast and P to Q is yinch.

Draw a line from Q to K.

G to Y is y and O to V is y inch more than yi breast.

Q to 2 is 3/8 inch less than N to 1.

Draw a line from R through S for spring.

3 to 4 is 1 inch.

The seat measure may be applied from 7 to U and Wto T, half of seat and 3^ inches.

16 to 17 and 18 to 19 is \y inches.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 13/J3 inches.

G to 11 is y, waist length.

The sleeve notches are located as follows: 1 to 10 is

1*5 breast and G to 9 is 3^ inch.


PLATE IX.

27


BICYCLE COAT.(explanation of PLATE X.)

The bicycle suit is usually made of Scotch plaid

cheviot, and in some instances from a plain, light-

colored material. The coat is cut rather wide across

the shoulders with a trifle wider back than for ordinary

wear. The back is cut without a center seam. Thefront closes with four buttons, and there are four out-

side patch pockets with flaps to go in and out, and an

inside pump pocket in the facing, z% x 6 inches. It is

usually made up skeleton, and the facing is wide enough

to go through the whole shoulder. The draft is pro-

duced by proportions from the following measures:



TO DRAFT.



B to C is yi breast.

A to D is % height (17 inches).

D to E is y% height (8yi inches).

E to 6x is 2 yi inches, making the total length 28 inches.

Square lines B, C, D, E and F.

C to G is }4 of breast measure.

Square up and down from G.

C to I is ^ inch more than yi breast, and C to H is yi

inch more than 2A breast.

I to J is 1 yi inches.

yi breast and % inch will be the same as 5 parts of

half of breast with the 2 inches additional with

seams added, so this method, while different from

my regular division, may be used here if desired,

for they both come out just the same.

Square up lines J and H.

14 to P is % inch, and D to N is yi inch.

Draw back center line P, N, O.

N to X and O to Y is yi breast.

K to L is yi breast, and K to W is % inch.

P to Q is yi breast, and Q to R is S/g inch.

S to T is % inch less than yi breast.

T to U is l/2 inch.

S to 7 is ye breast.

Draw a line from U to W for top of shoulder.

U to V is yi inch less than R to W.

17 to 18 is % inch.

7 to 8 is 3^, G to 9 is 3^, 10 to 11 is 3^ and Z to 12

is \yi inches.

1 to 2 is 1 inch.

5 to 6 is 2.yi inches.

K to 15 is -fe breast for the back notch of sleeve.

H to 16 is y^ inch for the back notch of sleeve.

Shape as represented.


PLATE X.

29

3° STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT.(explanation of PLATE XI.)

The shoulders are cut quite wide. The waist is

moderately close fitting, with a bell effect at the bottom

over the hips.

Height, 5 feet 8 inches Breast, 38

TO DRAFT.




A to D is 17 inches, waist length (^ of height).

D to E is %% inches (y waist length), and E to F is ^waist length, or i\ of height.


C to 1 is y, D to 2 is y, and E to 3 is y inch.

1 to G is ^ inch more than y breast.

G to H is y&, and G to I is ^ breast.

Square up from I and up and down from H.

I to J is y? inch.

Square down from J to 13.

A to W is Y% breast and % inch.

W to X is y$ inch.

17 to Z is A breast.

H to R and I to Q is Ve breast.

Draw a line from Z to Q, locating width of back at Y.

Shape back in a half-circle from Y to G.

18 is iS up from I.

N to O is y inch.

Shape back from 18 through O, 4 to 13.

Draw spring line from 16 through O, to locate point 6,

and shape as per diagram.

1 to L is half of breast measure.

L to K is 1 y> inches only, as nothing is taken out between

back and side body at 18 and I.

Square down from K to 12.

K to M is y, breast.

Square up from M to T and draw line from T to K.

Draw a line from T to B.

T to U is y inch less (on seam) than y breast.

Draw a line from U to P.

U to V is y inch less than X to Y.

T to 15 is y inch more than y breast.

Shape armscye, shoulder and gorge.

15 to 20 is iy, inches.

K to 10 is 7,y inches.

Square down from 10 through 9 and 7.

9 to 7 is 4y inches (y of height).

7 to 8 is y inch.

Shape front edge from 10 through 9 and 8.

18 to 14 is the same as 18 to 13.

Sweep from 14 to n by U.

11 to 12 is iy inches.

Draw a line from M through 20 for run of lapel.

H to 19 is y, of waist length (17 on y$), which will

locate the top and center of pocket.

The lower button is placed opposite the lower pocket

and the top button 1 inch below breast line.

The buttons are set back iy inches, which is iy inches

less from the center line than it is from the center

line to front edge.

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR.

Draw the break line from first buttonhole at the breast

to 15, then from 15 through shoulder point U to 21.

21 to 22 is 1 inch, and 21 to 23 is 1%' inches.

The width of lapel at notch is 2j4, and collar 2^inches, this being the prevailing style.


PLATE XI.

31


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK.(explanation of PLATE XII.)

This draft is of a regular three-button cutaway frock,

produced from the following proponions of heights and

widths:

Breast, 36 Waist, 31


TO DRAFT.


A to C is 3^4 inches, and C to B is y, breast.

A to D is 17 inches (one-fourth of height).

D to E is 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E.

D to F is y height, making the full length of coat 34

inches.

B to G is 2^ inches more than y breast measure.

Square down from G to X.

G to H is yi breast. Square up to Q and draw a line

from G to Q.

Q to R is y inch less than }& breast,and Rto S is ^ inch.

C to K is one inch more than half of breast (20 on

halves), and K to J and K to I is y inch more than

y breast (20 on eighths).

Square up lines I and J and square down from K to L.

Draw a line from S to M for top of front shoulder.

A to N is y inch more than yk breast.

N to O is 54 inch.

M to P is 3/z inch.

P to 1 is 2j£ inches.

1 to 2 is ^ inch down and forward.

D to 3 is yi inch.

3 to 4 is 2 yl inches, and 4 to 5 is 1 inch.

L to 6 is \~yl inches.

6 to 7 is 1 inch.

K to 8 is y inch.

Lengthen sidebody y inch below waist line as at points

9 and 10.

Sweep from 9 to X by shoulder point S for front length.

I to V is y, breast.

S to U is y% inch less than O to P.

S to T is y inch less than y breast.

T to 21 is 2^ inches.

G to 20 and 18 to 19 is \y inches.

The waist being one inch less than normal, take out

a small V at waist seam of forepart so that the pattern

will measure half of waist, and 2 inches for seams; be

sure to have the top of V come well forward toward

center of breast, so as not to produce fullness under

the arm, which is to be avoided.

THE SKIRT.

Point Y is half way between W and X.

Square back from Y to Z.

Make a mark opposite front of scye as at point 12,

and shape top of skirt from Z through 12 to X, raising

top of skirt over hip y inch.

12 to Z is the same as forepart and sidebody from 12

to 1 1 and 10 to 9.

4 to 13 is &y inches (half of natural waist length).

13 to 14 is Yz inch.

Z to 17 is the same as 15 to 16.

Shape spring from Z through 14 to 17.

17 is half way between 16 and F.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1^ inches,

the stand of the collar at center of notch is 1 inch, and

the turnover 1^ inches.


PLATE XII.

34 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

THREE=BUTTON BUSINESS CUTAWAY FROCK.(explanation of PLATE XIII.)

A business cutaway is drafted the same as a regular

three-button cutaway, with the exception that it is cut

shorter and has flaps on the sides. Following are the

measurements:


Height, s feet 10 inches.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3^8 inches, and B to C is yj breast.

A to D is 17^ inches (one-fourth of height).

D to E is 2 inches. Square lines B, C, D and E.

D to F is 1 inch less than j{ height, making the full

length of coat 34 inches.

C to G is 2% inches more than j4 breast measure.

Square down from G to X.

G to H is }i breast Square up to Q and draw a line

from G to Q.

Q to R is 1^ inch less than y& breast, and R to S is J^

inch.

C to K is one inch more than half of breast (21 on

halves). K to J and K to I is yl inch more than

yl breast.

Square up lines I and J, and square down from K to L.

Draw a line from S to M for top of front shoulder.

A. to N is yl inch more than yk breast.

N to O is S/s inch.

M to P is f/fs inch.

P to 1 is 2% inches.

1 to 2 is ^ inch down and forward.

D to 3 is % inch.

3 to 4 is 2yl inches, and 4 to 5 is 1 inch.

L to 6 is \yl inches.

6 to 7 is 1 inch.

K to 8 is 24 inch.

Lengthen sidebody yl inch below waist line as at points

9 and 10.

Sweep from 9 to X by shoulder point S for front length.

I to V is \i breast.

S to U is 3/s inch less than O to P.

S to T is yl inch less than yl breast.

T to 21 is 2 34 inches.

G to 20 and 18 to 19 is 1^ inches.

The waist being one inch less than normal, take out

a small V at waist seam of forepart so that the pattern

will measure half of waist, and 2 inches for seams;

be sure top of V comes well forward toward center of

breast, so as not to produce fullness under the arm,

which is to be avoided.

THE SKIRT.

Point Y is half way between W and X.

Square back from Y to Z.

Make a mark opposite front of scye as at point 12,

and shape top of skirt from Z through 12 to X, raising

top of skirt over hip y^ inch.

12 to Z is the same as forepart and sidebody from 12

to 11 and 10 to 9.

4 to 13 is &yl inches (half of natural waist length).

13 to 14 is Yi inch.

Z to 17 is the same as 15 to 16.

Shape spring from Z through 14 to 17.

17 is half way between 16 and F.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1% inches,

the stand of the collar at center of back is 1 inch, and

the turnover iS^ inches.


PLATE XIII.


DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK.(explanation ok PLATE XIV.)

This draft is for a normal figure measuring—

-



TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3^ inches and B to C J/3 breast.

A to D is 17 inches (y of height).

D to E is 1 y2 inches.

Square lines B, C, D and E.

A to 27 is 37 units of height (39& inches).

C to M is one inch more than y? breast.

M to N and M to O is ^ inch more than y breast

(21 on eighths). Square up lines N and O and

square down from M to Q.

A to L is y inch more than y breast (21 on eighths).

L to 1 is S/% inch.

K to 2 is y% inch.

2 to 4 is 2 jy inches.

D to 9 is y inch.

9 to X is 2 zy inches.

X to 8 is 1 inch.

Q to 6 is iy inches and 6 to 7 is 1 inch.

The sidebody seam is y inch back from point M.

4 to 5 is y inch forward and down from 4.

Lengthen sidebody one seam as at 14—15.

C to F is half of the breast measure.

F to G is 2y inches. Square up and down from G.

H to I is }i breast.

Draw a line from I to B.

I to J is y inch less than y, breast.

Draw a line from J to K.

J to 3 is y% inch less than 1 to 2.

N to P is y breast.

J to V is y inch less than y breast.

V to 20 is y inch.

Sweep from T to U by shoulder point J for front length.

Draw a line from U to T for top of skirt.

U to 16 is y inch. Raise skirt seam as from 10 through

16, 17 and 18.

Points 10 and 12 are opposite front of scye, point N.

The waist being one inch smaller than normal, a small

V is taken out of the forepart as at 12.

Measure forepart and sidebody from 12 to 13 and 14 to

15, and make the skirt the same amount from 10

to 1 1.

X to Y is Sy inches {}/% of height or y2 of natural

waist length).

Y to Z is 2 inches for normal figure when seat is 1 inch

more than breast, with a variation of y inch for

every inch more or less seat.

11 to 28 is y inch more than E to 27.

U to 26 is the same as 1 1 to 28.

The lapel is drafted by drawing a line from 17 to 19.

17 to 18 is 2y inches, 21 to 22 is 3 inches.

G to R is y breast. Draw a line from R through 19

for run of top of lapel and through 20 for the

collar.

The width of lapel at notch is 2 inches and the collar

t.S/%. The collar at back seam is 1 inch stand and

iy inch turn over, or according to style and fancy.

Square down from 23 to 24.

23 to 24 is y2 inch more than 1 1 to 28.

25 is half way between 23 and 24.

24 to 26 is 1 inch. Shape front of skirt from 23 through

25 to 26.


PLATE XIV.


FULL DRESS COAT.(explanation of PLATE XV.)

This draft is produced by proportions from the fol-

lowing measures:



TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3}^ inches.

B to C is }i breast.

A to D is i6J4 inches (one-fourth of height).

D to E is 1 Y inches.

Square out lines B, C, D and E.

D to 17 is 4 r»sinches more than Y height.

Entire length is 371-1 inches (36 units of height).

C to H is one inch more than half breast (10^ inches,

or 20^2 on halves).

H to I and H to K is Y inch more than Y breast (20^on eighths).

I to J is y2 inch. Square up lines I, J and K.

A to N is ^ inch more than Y breast (20J4 on eighths).

N to O is S/s inch.

M to X is ^ inch.

M to 1 is 1^ inches.

D to 4 is Y inch.

4 to 5 is 1 24 inches.

C to G is 2}( inches more than half of breast measure.


G to Q is Y breast. Square up from Q to R and draw

a line from R to G.

R to S is Y incn l ess than Y breast.

5 to T is Y inch. Draw a line from T to B and T to M.

K to P is Y breast.

T to V is 3^ inch less than O to X.

Y to 26 is Y inch.

I to 2 is Y inch.

Square down from H to Z.

H to 3 is Y inch. Z to 20 is i% inches and 20 to 21

is 1 inch.

Line 7-22 is one seam below waist line.

Sweep from 7 to 8 by shoulder point T for front length.

II to 22 is 1 inch and 8 to 12 is iY inches.

THE SKIRT.

10 is half way between 8 and 1 1. Square out from 10 to 9.

5 to 17 is 8Y inches (Y height).

17 to 18 is Y inch.

Mark off a point as at W and measure forepart and

sidebody from W to 22 and 7, and make skirt the

same from W to 9.

12 to 13 is 1 inch.

Measure the skirt from 9 to 13, and go back from 13 to

14 one-half inch more than Yi the distance from

9 to 13.

19 is in the middle of back skirt.

19 to 16 is Yi the distance from 9 to 13.

16 to 15 is Y inch.

9 to 19 is the same as E to F.

The lapel is drafted by drawing a line as from 8 to 27.

G to 28 is Y% inch.

8 to 30 is iY and 28 to 29 is 23^ inches.

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from second

button through shoulder point T up to 32.

32 to 33 is Y inch.

33 to 35 is 1 inch and ^^ to 36 is iY inches.

The width of lapel at notch is iY inches and the collar

\Y inches, or according to style and fancy.


PLATE XV.


TUXEDO.BY STONE'S SHORT MEASURE METHOD.

(explanation of PLATE XVI.)

The draft is produced from the following measure-

ments, which are of a normal figure:

Strap, 12 Natural waist length, 17

Over shoulder, i7# Full length of coat, 3°

Closing, 13 Breast, 38

Blade, 11^ Waist, 34

Depth of scye, 9% Seat, 39

TO D RAFT.

Commence by squaring out and down from A.

A to B is depth of scye; to C natural waist length; to

E full length of coat.

C to D is y2 of the natural waist length (8% inches).

B to F is y inch.

F to G is Yz breast.

6 is half way between A and F.

Square lines G, B, F, C, D and E.

B to H is blade measure, and H to I is ij^ inches.

L to K is Yz inch more than % breast.

K to 7 is y inch.

Square down from 7 through 9 and 8.

Square up from K and L.

F to R is y2 breast measure.

R to S is 2~y inches.

S to U is y breast.

Square up from U through V.

X to Y is ys breast.

Draw a line from Y to S.

Apply strap length from 1 to W and make a sweep.

A to O is yg breast plus y inch.

O to P is y^ inch.

L to M is y$ breast.

Draw a line from P to M for run of shoulder.

Point Q is y inch forward from N.

Measure back from A to P and deduct same amountfrom W to V, then apply the over-shoulder measure

from 1 to 2, place this at I and measure up to 3.

Apply closing measure from J to Q and from I through

M to Z. V to 21 is y breast.

Draw a line from 6 to I.

B to 1 is y inch.

C to 14 is ys inch.

D to 15 is y inch.

E to 16 is ys inch.

8 to 1 1 is 3/s inch.

4 to 5 is 1 inch.

9 to 10 is Ys inch.

Apply seat measure from 15 to n, place this at 20, and

measure back to 12, one-half seat and 3^ inches.

Draw a line from 10 through 12.


Sweep from 17 to 18 by shoulder point V.

18 to 19 is 1 inch.


Point 22 is y inch forward of shoulder point V.

Draw a line for break of collar from waist line at point

T through 22 up to 23.

23 to 24 is y inch.

24 to 25 is 1 inch.

24 to 26 is iy inches. Shape as represented.

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 4i

PLATE XVI.

\^ 26


CLERICAL COAT.BY COMBINED SUPERLATIVE, PROPORTION AND SHOULDER MEASURE METHODS.

(explanation of PLATE XVII.)

The diagram of a clerical coat is produced from the

following measures:

Strap, I2ji Full length, 38

Upper shoulder, 27^ Breast, 38

Lower shoulder, 26^ Waist, 35

Scye, 18 Hip, 37

Natural waist, 17 Seat, 39

Fashionable waist, 183^ Neck, 16

Height 5 feet 8 inches.

TO DRAFT.

Square lines A B and A O.

A to B is Yi of upper shoulder measure.

B to C is 1 inch.

A to D is 17 inches, natural waist, to E i83^, fashion-

able waist, and to F 38 inches, full length of coat.

Square lines C, D and E.

C to G is y?, breast and 2^ inches added for make-up.

Square down from G to V.

C to I is Y<i lower shoulder measure.

Divide distance from I to C into 5 equal parts for width

of back, as from C to L, leaving 2 parts for width

of armscye, as from L to I.

H is half way between L and I.

Divide distance from I to G into 3 equal parts and

square up from K to O.

Draw a line from O to G.

V to W is 1 inch.

Shape front center line from O, coming out J^ inch at

P and 34 at G down to W.

Hollow center of back at D and E y inch, as from Dto 1.

1 to 2 is 2j( inches.

2 to 3 is 1 inch.

Square down from H to X.

X to Z is 1 inch.

Z to 4 is 1 inch.

H to Y is y2 inch.

A to M is y% of neck plus x/2 inch.

M to N is y% inch.

1 to 17 is % breast.

Draw a line from N to 17.

L to S and I to T is y scye measure plusJ/3

inch.

14 to 15 is 2~y inches.

15 to 16 is y2 inch forward and down.

Go up from 14 to U same amount as there is from 14 to S.

Draw a line from O to U.

O to Q is y, of neck plus ^ inch.

Q to P is y of neck plus 1 inch.

Q to 18 is the same as N to 14.



Sweep from 5 to 6, using point Q as pivot.

6 to 7 is y inch.

Take out y inch V from 8 to 9, and shorten front of

forepart y of this amount at 7.

W to 12 and G to 13 is y inch.

Apply y of hip measure at waist seam from center of

back to line W and allow 2 inches for seams.

Make a point on skirt and forepart as at 10, and meas-

ure forward for width of skirt. Then measure fore-

part and sidebody from 10 to 5 and make skirt

same amount from 10 to n.

Draw a line from 1 1 to 6 and shape top of skirt, raising

it y inch over the hip as indicated in diagram.

2 to 21 is y the length of natural waist.

21 to 22 is 1 y inches.

Draw a line from n through 22 for spring of skirt.


6 to 24 is the same as 1 1 to 23.

To draft the collar draw a straight line from 25 to yinch below point P.

The width of collar is 1JH3 inches.

Shape as indicated in diagram.

ST0NE '

S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 43


SINGLE-BREASTED FOUR-BUTTON SACK.FOR CORPULENT FIGURE—ONE-HALF INCH ERECT.

(explanation of PLATE XVIII.)

This draft is for a corpulent figure y2 inch erect, but

otherwise in proportion. The draft is produced from

the following proportions:

Breast, 46 Waist, 48 Sc} e, 21.

Height 5 feet 10 inches.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3V8 inches.

B to C is y, scye and y inch (22 on 3ds).

A to D is y height (17^ inches).

D to E is y height (8% inches).

E to F is rV of length (4^ inches).

Square out lines B, C, D, E and F.

D to F is j4 inch.

E to V is Y% inch.

Shape center of back from B through U and V to W.

G to O is y% of breast measure.

O to P is 2y inches.

Square down from P through S and 21.

P to Q is y& breast.

Square up from Q to R.

C to H is 1 inch more than j4 breast.

H to J is y inch more than y, breast.

H to K is y inch more than y, breast.

Square up from K, and square up and down from J.

K to M is y, inch.

Square down from M through N.

Draw a line from B to J.

\ to Y is y inch more than y breast.

Y to Z is y inch.

Shape back as represented.

For a normal coat the waist measure will be 4

inches less than breast. In this case the waist is 2

inches more than breast, which makes it 6 inches extra

size around the waist.

Add y, of this amount (2 inches) from S to T, and

square down from T to 19.

R to U is y inch, being y of the amount of the fat

added from S to T.

Draw a line from U through y inch forward of P downto T, and shape front center line from U through

points P, T and 19.

U to V is y inch less than y breast.

In a normal draft shoulder point V is lowered y inch

below construction line; in this case we have a

figure y inch erect, so the shoulder point will re-

main on the construction line.

Draw a line from V to 1.

J to 5 is y breast.

V to 6 is y& inch less than Z to 2.

V to 9 is y breast.

A to 10 is 1 inch.

Draw a line from 10 through point 9 for gorge seam.

Point 3 is y inch below line B, J.

3 to 4 is 1 inch.

N to 22 is 2y inches.

Draw a line from 35 through 22 for spring.


Sweep from 24 to 25 by point V.

25 to 26 is 2 inches.

J to 31 is y, waist length (17^ on J^rds).

Pocket opening line 2728 runs parallel with line 24-26.

In a normal coat point 31 would be in the center

of the pocket opening; in this case the center is ad-

vanced y% of the amount added from S to T (^3 inch).

Point L is in the center of the scye.

Draw a line from L to 27, and split pattern through

from L to 27, and from 27 to 28, and lay a plait

on pattern, as from 29 to 30, which is yi of fat

added from S to T.

When cutting the cloth add seams to forepart from Lto 27, so that when sewed together it gets back to

its normal place.

9 to 16 is 3 inches

P to 17 is iy inches.

T to 18 is 1 inch.


THE COLLAR.

Draw a line from first buttonhole to n, which is yinch forward of point V. Wherever this line passes the

gorge line, as at 12, is the break of the collar. Then

draw a line from 12 through point V to 13.

13 to 14 is 1 inch.

13 to 15 is \i/z inches.

The back notch for sleeve is A breast below point 1,

and the front notch is y inch up from point J.


PLATE XVIII.

45


THREE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK.FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE.

(explanation of PLATE XIX.)

The accompanying draft, which is for a corpulent

figure, is strictly proportioned. ' The draft is produced

from the following measures:



TO DRAFT.


A to B is T,i/s inches and B to C is yi breast.

A to D is one-fourth of height (i6y inches).

D to F is (17^2 inches) one inch more than y of

height.

D to E is 1^ inches. Square out lines B, C, D and E.

C to G is one inch more than y breast.

G to H is 3^ inch more than y, breast, and

G to J is y inch more than y breast.

J to K is y2 inch. Square up lines H, J and K.

Square down from G to M.

L to 1 is 2^ inches, 1 to 2 is y2 inch forward and

down.

D to 9 is y inch, 9 to 10 is 2j^ inches.

M to 3 is 1 y inches and 3 to 4 is 1 inch.

G to 5 is y inch.

A to W is y inch more than y breast.

W to X is ^ inch.

C to P is half of breast measure.

P to Q is 2y inches.

Q to R is y% breast. Square down from Q and up from

R, and draw a line from S to Q.

In the proportionate form the waist is 4 inches less

than the breast. In this instance the waist is 2 inches

more than breast, hence there is 6 inches extra fat that

has to be added to the waist. In a normal coat it calls

for 1 inch suppression between the back and sidebody,

from 7 to 10, and 1 inch between the sidebody and

forepart, 3 to 4. (The normal front center line will

run from S through Q to 12, as per broken line. ) Hav-ing found the extra fat to be 6 inches, only half of this

amount is used, as only half of the garment is drafted,

add y of the fat in front and y in the side, as follows:

Y to Z is 2 inches (jA, of fat), 3 to 6 is y, inch, and 7

to 8 is y, inch (J/3 of fat altogether). For every inch

of fat added to the front at waist, recede % inch at S,

so S to T is in this case y2 inch. Draw a line from T

to y inch forward at Q down to Z, and square downfrom Z to 13 for front of coat.

T to U is one seam less than y breast.

U to V is y inch.

Draw a line from V to L.

H to N is y, breast. L to 33 is y inch.

V to 32 is Y% inch less than X to 33.

V to 27 is y breast. 27 to 28 is 3 inches. Q to 24 is

iy inches. Z to 26 is iy inches.

Draw a line from 24 through 26 to 25, and draw a line

from 25 through 13 to 23.

11 is 3/g, inch below waist line, running up to waist

line at 14.

Sweep from 11 to 12 and 13 by V, shoulder point.

15 is y inch below sidebody.

Draw a line from 15 to point 12, where sweep crosses

the natural front center line, which will be the run

of the skirt.

Hollow forepart y inch above construction line at 16.

One-third of the amount of fat added to the front is

taken out of forepart in a V at waist on a line half way

between points H and Q. Draw a line from the V to

where the sweep line crosses the fat line at 13. Thedistance from 12 to 13 is cut out.

Apply the hip measure from 13 to 15 (deducting the V)

and from 14 to 1 1, and width of back from 10 to 9, half

of hip measure and 2 inches for seams. This measure

will determine the amount of spring needed over the

hip at points 11, 14 and 15. Point 35 is half way be-

tween 34 and 12. Square back from 35 to 18. Makea point at 16 and 17, and measure forepart and side-

body from 16 to 15, 14 to 11, and make skirt the same

amount from 17 to 18.

10 to 19 is 8y inches (half of natural waist length).

19 to 20 is y inch for the normal spring, 20 to 21

is y inch, which is y, inch added for every inch of ex-

tra seat, which in this case is 2 inches over normal.

Shape top of skirt coming up over the construction line

y inch.

Measure forepart from 16 to 13, and make skirt the

same amount from 17 to front edge.

18 to 22 is the same as E to F, and 12 to 23 is the same

as 18 to 22.

Finish as represented.


PLATE XIX.


ONE=BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK.

SUPERLATIVE SHOULDER MEASURE METHOD.

(explanation of PLATE XX.)

This draft is produced from the combined propor-

tionate and shoulder measure methods from the follow-

ing measurements:

Strap, is}4

Upper shoulder, 33

Lower shoulder, 3 2yScye, 22

Natural waist length, 19

Fash, waist length, 21

Full length of coat, 38

Width of back,

Breast, 48|Waist, 50

|

Lower waist, 52 |Seat,


sy5 1

TO DRAFT.


A to B is y'i of upper shoulder measure.

B to C is one inch.

A to D is natural waist length, 19 inches {y of height),

to E 2 inches for fashionable length, and to F full

length of coat, 32 units of height.

Square out lines C, D, E and F.

C to H is y2 of lower shoulder measure.

H to I is y breast.

I to J is y2 inch.

K is half way between H and J.

J to R is y of scye plus y inch (the scye measure is

22, add 1 inch to this, which makes it 23; use 23

on thirds).

Square back from R to G.

A to U is y$ breast plus y inch.

U to V is y inch.

D to 11 is y& inch.

II to 12 is 2y2 inches, and R to 1 is the same.

Top of sidebody point 2 is y2 inch below point 1.

C to M is 2 jy inches more than half of breast measure.

M to L is y, breast.

Square up from L to P.

Square down from M.

For the normal size the waist is 4 inches less than the

breast, and seat 1 inch more than breast; in this

case the waist is 2 inches more than breast, so wehave 6 inches of fat to be added at waist; as only

half of the coat is drafted, only half of the fat (3

inches) is added to waist; of this amount I add

two-thirds in front, 2 inches from N to O.

Square down from O to W.

P to Q is y inch, which is one-fourth the amount of

fat added from N to O.

Draw a line from Q through M to O.

Draw a line from Q to G.

Q to S is one seam less than y breast.

Draw a line from S to R.

S to T is y inch less than V to R.

H to 3 is y breast.

Draw a line from T to 3.

S to 22 is y breast.

Square down from K to 5.

5 to 6 is one inch, and 6 to 7 is one inch, and 12 to 9

is one inch; having added 2 inches of extra fat to

front, the remaining one inch is added fi inch

from 6 to 8 and y inch from 9 to 10.

13 to X is y inch, and 14 is y inch below fashionable

waist line.

Sweep from X to W by shoulder point S; wherever this

sweep crosses the front line M N, as at Y, is the

top of the skirt, and wherever it crosses the fat

line O W, is the length of the forepart, and the

distance between W and Y is taken out; apply

lower waist measure by measuring the back and

sidebody as from E to 14; place this at W and

measure back to 15 (deducting y inch for the Vin forepart), one-half of measure and 2 inches for

seam, and mark off point 15.

THE SKIRT.

21 is half way between 20 and Y.

Square back to 16, make a point as at Z and measure

forepart from Z to 15 and sidebody from 14 to X,

and make skirt the same amount from Z to 16.

12 to 1.7 is gy inches, being y of height.

17 to 18 is iy inches, being y of an inch for every

inch that seat measures more than breast.


M to 23 is iy inches and O to 24 is y inch; the width

of lapel and collar at notch is i3/g inches.

The sleeve is drafted by the scye measure, which calls

for a 46 breast, proportion sleeve.


PLATE XX.


DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT.FOR CORPULENT FIGURE.

(explanation of PLATE XXI.)

This draft is for a figure which is one inch erect,

otherwise it is strictly proportionate. The draft is pro-

duced from the following measures:



TO DRAFT.

Commence by squaring lines A, B, C and A, P.

A to B is 3^3 inches, being the proportion of 5 feet 10

inches in height.

B to C is T/i breast on division.

A to B is natural waist length, 17^ inches, being y of

entire height.

D to E is 1 54 inches for fashionable length of waist.

A to F is 39^4 inches (36 units of height) for full length

of coat.


C to G is half of breast measure and 2 inches added for

seams.

Square down from G to 10.

G to L is yi breast. Square up to M.

C to H is 1 inch more than y2 breast.

H to I is y&, and H to J is y inch more than ^ breast.

J toK is .*4 inch.

H to U is 1 inch. Square down from U to V.

When our subject stands one inch erect, top of back

should be lowered y from A to Ai, and the front

raised from M to N ^ inch.

Ai to T is y inch more than y% of breast.

T to S is 5/s inch.

R to 3 is 2j4 inches.

D to 1 is y inch.

Hollow center of back from B through 1 to E.

1 to 2 is 2% inches.

The breast being 52 inches, the waist should be 48

inches, or 4 inches less for a normal figure.

In a normal figure a suppression of 1 inch is taken out

between 2 and 6, and 1 inch between W and 5.

The waist measure in this coat being 37 inches, we have

10 inches extra waist or fat to be added. Take y2of the 10 inches extra waist, and add fz of 5, 3^inches, in front from X to Y, then divide again

into 3 parts, and add ^3 from W to 5, and yi from

6 to 7.

For every inch added in front from X to Y, retreat yinch from N to O.

Draw a line from G to O.

Square down from Y to n and shape front center from

O, adding y inch at 17 through 18 down to Y.

G to 18 is y inch extra.

O to P is y inch less than y& of breast.

P to Q is y% inch less than S to R.

Sweep from 8 to 10 and 11 by shoulder point P.

Lengthen sidebody one seam at 8.

Draw a line from 10 to y inch below sidebody at side

seam.

Shape bottom of forepart as shown in diagram, coming

up in front to where sweep line crosses front line

at 11.

LAPEL.

Draw a straight line from 11 to 24.

Sweep from 17 to 24 by Y.

11 to 21 is 2^ inches.

Make width of lapel 3 inches opposite point 22.

SKIRT.


Square down to line from 1 to 12 and 9, measure fore-

part and sidebody from 12 to 8, and make skirt

the same distance from 9 to 13.

2 to 14 is y, of entire height.

14 to 15 is y% of hip measure.

Draw a line from 8 to 15 over spring.

15 to 16 is y2 inch.

Shape top of skirt, adding y inch over hip from 13 to

9, and raise it y of an inch above point 10.

Measure forepart from 12 forward to 21, deducting the

amount taken out in the V, and make skirt the

same length from 9 to 26.

13 to 20 is the same as back skirt E to F.

26 to 19 is the same as 18 to 20 in the back of the skirt.

19 to 20 in the front is y inch.

Note.—The vest may be copied from the coat pat-

tern as per broken lines.


PLATE XXI.

9


DOUBLE=BREASTED FROCK.BY SUPERLATIVE PROPORTION AND SHORT MEASURE METHODS.

(explanation of PLATE XXII.)

Strap, IS

Over shoulder, 21

Closing measure, 16

Blade, 14

Depth of scye, I0 }

To natural waist, 17}

This coat has a full bell skirt, and is for a corpulent

figure measuring as follows:

Fashionable waist, 19XFull length of coat, 40

Breast, 46

Waist, 51

Hip, 52

Seat, 48^

TO DRAFT.

Square lines A, B, C and A, S, X.

A to B is depth of scye, 10y inches, to C 17^ natural

waist, to D 19^ fashionable waist, and to E full

length of coat, 40 inches.

Square lines B, C and D.

B to F is T/i of breast measure.

F to G is 2% inches for seams and make up.

Square down from G through K to 13.

In a normal figure the waist should be 4 inches less

than breast, 42 waist and a 46 breast.

From 42 to 51 is 9 inches extra fat, half of this amount

is $x/2 inches. Divide this into 3 equal parts.

Each of these parts will be i 1/, inches; add 3 inches

from K to L, being y$ of extra fat which is added

to the front of the coat.

Square down from L to 12. G to M is ^ breast.

Recede y of an inch at M for every inch of fat added

to front of coat, therefore M to N is ^ of an inch.

Square up from N to X for center of neck.

Draw line from G to X.

Shape front center line from X, adding y inch at 10

from dotted line and y2 inch from G to 11, taper-

ing down to nothing at L.

N to O is ^ breast. Square up from O through 9.

B to H is blade. H to I is lyi inches.

A to S is y& breast plus y2 inch.

S to T is y of an inch. Draw a line from T to I.

I to J is y breast and y2 inch. Square up from I and J.

V and Z is ^ of an inch below I and J, breast line.

V is half way between Y and Z. Square down from V to W.V to 5 is y2 inch, W to 6 is 1 inch, 6 to 7 is 1 inch, C

to 20 is y of an inch and 20 to 21 is 2y2 inches.

21 to 22 is 1 inch.

In a normal coat 1 inch is taken out between the back

and sidebody and 1 inch between the sidebody and

forepart at waist line. Having added 2/'i of the extra

fat in front there is y, left to be added to the side

and back. Divide this amount into 3 equal parts of

y2 inch each, and add 2 parts or 1 inch to forepart

from 6 to 7, and 1 part y inch from 22 to 23.

To regulate the width of back a measure is taken on the

body as from A to 3, which in this case is &yinches; this is applied from A to 1 in drafting.

U to 3 is 1 inch. (J to 2 is \y2 inches.

Draw a line from 1 to 2 which will regulate the width

of back at 3.

2 to 4 is y2 inch down and forward.

Y to 30 is yi net breast.

Apply strap measure from 1 up to P and make a sweep.

Apply over shoulder measure from 1 to Q and make a

sweep.

Cut out back and lay in position as shown in diagram.

Apply closing measure from I through 30, 31, 32 and

down to R, and reduce shoulder point at 31 ac-

cording to measure.

Draw straight line from 30 to 32. 9 to 10 is y breast.

Lengthen sidebody -;s of an inch below waist line as

from 17 to 25. Sweep from 17 to 13 and 12, using

shoulder point 9 as pivot.

26 is one seam below sidebody. Draw a line from 26

to 13 for length of forepart.

y of the extra fat added from K to L is taken out in a

V at waist line.

The front length of forepart will be wherever sweep line

crosses the front at 12, and the top of skirt will be

wherever sweep line crosses the normal line at 13.

In a normal coat nothing is taken out between the fore-

part and skirt at 12 and 13, but in a corpulent

figure the sweep line will regulate the extra amount

to be taken out.

Draw a straight line from 17 to 13, make a point at 14 and

measure forepart from 14 to 26 and sidebody from

25 to 17, and make skirt same amount from 14 to 24.

21 to 27 is y of natural waist length.

27 to 28 is iy inches for normal.

'28 to 29 is Y% inch extra for exira seat.

In a normal coat the seat should measure 1 inch more

than the breast; for every inch that the seat is

more add y<& of an inch from 28 to 29.

24 to 18 is the same as D to E.


Measure forepart and lapel from 14 to 15 and makeskirt same amount less y2 inch from 14 to 16.

THE LAPEL.

Draw straight line from 12 to ^^.

12 to 15 is 2y2 inches.

35 to 39 is T,y, inches. Sweep from 10 to 33 by L.

Draw line from F through 33 to 34.

The width of lapel at notch is 2 3^ and the collar 2^ ins.


PLATE XXII.

53


SACK OVERCOAT.riEDIUn CLOSE FITTING.

(explanation of PLATE XXIII.)

The medium loose fitting coat is produced by the

regular proportions in the following manner:

Breast, 38.


TO DRAFT.


A to B is T,y% inches and B to C y, breast.

A to D is 17 J4 inches {% of height).

D to E is 8J4 inches (}i of height).

E to F is 8J4 inches {yi of height).

F to G is 2i36 inches (^5 of height).

Entire length of coat 37ns inches (34 units of height).

Square lines B, C, D, E, F and G.

C to 1 is y, D to 2 and E to 3 and F to 4 is y2 inch.

C to H is one inch more than half breast.

H to I and H to J is y inch more than y breast (21

on eighths).

Square up and down from J and I.

A to N is y inch more than y breast (21 on eighths).

N to O is yA inch.

K to P is y inch.

Draw a line from B to J.

5 to 6 is y2 inch.

L to 8 is y2 inch.


C to R is 2)4 inches more than half of breast measure.

Square up and down from R.

S to T is y inch less than y breast.

T to M is % breast.

Draw a line from M to R and M to B.

T to U will average y inch in all normal sizes.

K to V is y2 inch. Draw a line from U to V.

U to 19 is y breast.

J to W is y, breast.

U to X is y% inch less than O to P.

Draw a line from W to X.

Draw a line from Y through L for run of spring.

6 to 7 is 1 inch.


Sweep from 10 to 28 by shoulder point U.


R to 21 is 2y inches. Square down for 22 and 23.

22 to 23 is jg height (4^ inches).

23 to 24 is y inch. Draw a line from 22 through 24,

25 and 26.

25 to 26 is I's height (4^ inches).

26 to 27 is y inch. Draw a line from 25 through 27

for run of front.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1^ inches or

according to style and fancy.

J to 30 is y inch more than y of natural waist length.

Point 30 is in the center of pocket.

The lower button is spaced opposite pocket opening,

and buttons are equally divided from the top of

the lapel.

The collar is drafted the same as for undercoats. For

a double-breasted coat add 3^ inches from front

center line to broken line, which line represents the

double-breasted coat.


PLATE XXIII.


SINGLE-BREASTED SACK OVERCOAT.MEDIUM LOOSE FITTING.

(explanation of PLATE XXIV.)

This draft is produced from the regular proportions

by the following measurements:

Breast, 36.


TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3 inches and A to D y? inch.

B to C is Yz breast.

D to E is y height (17 inches).

E to F is Ye, height {&y inches).

F to G is 2 inches more than y% height (io)4 inches).

Full length is 37 inches (3 inches more than y of

height).

Square lines B, C, E, F and G.

E to 4 is y inch.

C to I is one inch more than y breast (10 inches).

I to J and I to H is ^ inch more than y breast (20

on eighths).

Square up and down from J and H.

Draw a line from B to H.

T to U is V2 inch.

D to W is }l inch more than y breast (20 on eighths).

W to X is 24 inch.

N to O is 3^ inches.

2 to 3 is y inch. Draw a line from 3 through O for

spring.

C to L is 2^ inches. Square up and down from L.

Y to R is one seam less than y breast.

Draw a line from R to T.

R to Z is }i breast. Draw a line from Z to L.

R to 20 is y breast.

R to V is 3/g, inch less than X to U.

H to S is yi breast.

L to 13 and P to 14 is 2^ inches.


Sweep from 7 to 8 by R.

8 to 9 is 1 y inches.

19 to 16 is y inch.

H to 10 is % inch more than -/i breast.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is iy inches or

according to style and fancy.

The collar is drafted in the usual manner.

T to 27 is rSs breast and H to 28 is % inch.


PLATE XXIV.

5§ STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

SINGLE-BREASTED SACK OVERCOAT.LOOSE FITTING.

(explanation of PLATE XXV.)

The accompanying diagram is that of a loose fitting

box overcoat. When drafted by this method there will

be plenty of size in the coat without swinging the pattern

or inserting extra fullness, as is done when an ordinary

coat draft is used. This draft is produced from the

proportions of height and width, as follows:

Breast, 40 Height, 5 feet 8 inches

TO DRAFT.




A to D is 17 inches (yl of height).

D to E is &% inches (yi of height).

E to F is 12^ inches (ft of height, making the entire

length 38^4 inches).


C to G is half of breast measure.

G to H is 3 inches.

C to I is 1 inch more than yi breast (22 on halves).

I to K is y% breast.

I to J is ya breast measure (20 on eighths).

Square up and down from J and K.

L to M and L to N is 5/% inch.

A to W is yi net breast.

W to X is yA inch.

C to 1 is 3/i, D to 2, E to 3, and F to 4, is y2 inch.

J to Z is iJ5 breast.


U to V is 5 inches.

Draw a line from Z through V for spring, and hollow

the side seam yi inch at waist line 8.

Square up and down from H to P and T.

P to Q is yl inch.

Square back from Q to 21.

Q to R is }( inch less than y breast (4% inches).

Draw line from R to M.

Q to S is yi inch more than yi breast.

R to Y is y% inch less than X to N.

H to 13 and O to 12 is 2^ inches.

T to 1 1 is 2 inches.

Z to 7 is the same as Z to 6.


9 to 10 is 1 y2 inches.

K to 20 is y inch more than V$ waist length.

The collar is drafted by drawing the break line of lapel

from top button at 13 to a point % inch forward

of R, as at 14. Whenever this line crosses the

gorge draw a line from there through shoulder

point R to 15 for break of the collar.

15 to 16 is i% inches and 15 to 17 is 1 f£ inches.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1 ^ inches.

The back notch for sleeve at point 18 is h breast downfrom L, and the front notch at 19 is y inch up

from point K.



PLATE XXV.

59

6o STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

SURTOUT OVERCOAT.SUPERLATIVE SHOULDER MEASURE METHOD.

(explanation of PLATE XXVI.)

This style of coat as well as all others may be drafted

from the proportionate, short measure or shoulder meas-

ure methods. For an illustration I draft this one by the

shoulder measure method. The draft is produced from

the following measurements as taken over the vest:

Strap,

Upper shoulder,

Lower shoulder,

iz% Natural waist, i7j£

2-jyi Fashionable waist, 19

26 Full length, 42

Breast, 38J4 |Waist, 34^ |

Hip, 37 |Seat, 39^


To this I add for overcoat 1 1/2 inches to breast,

waist, hip and seat, }i of an inch to strap for every

inch of increase in breast and 73 of an inch to upper

and lower shoulder for every inch of increase in breast.

As no changes have taken place in the height of myclient I do not change the length, so my measures will

now read as follows:

Strap, 1314

Upper shoulder, 28^Lower shoulder, 27

Natural waist,

Fashionable waist, 19

Full length of coat, 42

*7#

Breast, 40|

Waist, 36 |Hip, 38^ |

Seat, 41


TO DRAFT.


A to C is yi of upper shoulder measure and 1 inch.

A to D is 1 7 J^ inches, natural waist length (one-fourth

of entire height).

D to E is \'i/itinches for fashionable waist length, and

A to F is 42 inches, the full length of coat.

C to B is yi breast.


C to H is yi of lower shoulder measure (13^ inches).

H to I is yl breast and yi inch.

J is half way between H and I.

Square down from J to 5.

5 to 6 is % inch, and J to 7 is 3^ inch.

A to Q is yi breast and Q to R is 5/g inch.

N to 8 is yk breast.

D to 1 is % inch and 1 to 2 is y% breast.

Draw construction line from 10 to E, and shape back.

2 to 3 is 1 inch and 6 to 4 is i}( inches.

9 is yi inch down and forward from 8.

C to G is one-half of breast measure and 2% inches.

Square down from G to Z.

G to K is y% breast.

Square up from K to L and draw a line from L to G,

and a line from L to N.

L to M is one seam less than yi breast, and M to O is

Zi inch less than R to N. H to P is % breast.

Draw a line from O to P and shape scye as per diagram.

Draw a line from H through M to S.

M to S is yi breast, the same as width at top of back.

The strap measure being in proportion to the uppershoulder it remain- proportionate (one-half of the

upper shoulder measure less one inch is the pro-

portionate strap length). If the strap is longer

than proportion the front shoulder is lengthened at

M and the back is lowered at A J4 the difference;

and if strap is shorter than proportion the front

shoulder is shortened at M and back raised at Aone-half the amount.

S to T is yl breast. Square out from T.

T to LT is yl breast and yi inch.

Sidebody point at Y is ^ inch below waist line it, run-

ning up to yl inch below waist line at 30.

Sweep from Y to Z by shoulder point M for front length.

Shape front from U, adding yi inch at G and V downto 14. Having added yi. inch extra front at 14 I

take out a small V as at 25, which will give morebreast to the coat.

Waist seam 29 is % inch below sidebody at 30, and 14

is yi inch above Z.

Shape waist seam as per illustration.

To draft the lapel, draw a straight line from 14 up to

16, and sweep out from U to 16 for length of lapel,

and draw line from K through 16 to 17. Also

draw a line from K through U to 18.

14 to 2 i is zyi inches, 15 to 20 is 3^ inches, 16 to 17

is 2% inches, and U to 18 is 2^ inches.

To draft the skirt, draw a line from Z to Y.

Q to W is 85^ inches, one-half of natural waist length,

or y% of entire height.

W to X is 2 inches.

Make a point as at 12, and measure forepart and side-

body from 12 to 29-30 to Y and make skirt the

same from 12 to Y.

Shape spring from Y through X to 28.

Shape top of skirt as per diagram, coming above con-

struction line }( inch at 13.

Measure distance from 12 to 21, and make skirt the

same from 12 to 22.

19 is 3^ inch from front of lapel.

Draw a straight line from 19 through 22 and 23 to 24,

and take off % inch at 24 to 27, running up to

nothing at 23.

Cutting about Y& inch swell on the skirt at 23 will give

a straight line from 22 to 27 on the finished garment.

Y to 2S is the same as E to F, and Z to 26 is the same

as Y to 2S.


PLATE XXVI.


DOUBLE=BREASTED PALETOT.BY SUPERLATIVE SHOULDER MEASURE METHOD.

(explanation of PLATE XXVII.)

This coat is drafted by the combination of propor-

tion and shoulder measure method, and is produced


Full length of coat,

Breast,

Waist,

Seat,

45

3»

34

39

Strap, 13

Upper shoulder, 28

Lower shoulder, 26

Natural waist length, 17^Fash'ble waist length, 20


TO DRAFT.


A to B is y inch.

A to C is one-third of upper shoulder measure, and C

to D is 1 inch.

A to E is natural and to D fashionable waist length and

to H full length of coat.

Square line D, E and F.

D to J is half of lower shoulder measure (13 inches),

and I is halfway between D and J.

I to K is \y2 inches.

Square up from K and J.

K to L is Yi breast.

A to S is y, breast and S to T is y inch.

L to 1 is 2J/2 inches.

E to 7 is % inch and 7 to 8 is 3 inches.

Sidebody point 2 is y> inch down and forward from 1.

8 to 9 is 1 inch.

3 is halfway between J and K.


3 to 21 is y inch.

4 to 5 is yl inch and 5 to 6 is 1 inch.

Point 10 is y inch above sweep.

Line Z, 1 1 is y, inch below waist line.

I I to 13 is y inch.

Draw a line from 13 to E for top of skirt.

E to G is y of natural waist length (&y inches).

13 to 12 is y inch more than n to Z.

Shape spring line from 12 through G to 16.

Sweep from Z to P by R.

12 to 16 is y inch more than F to H.

P to 17 is the same as 12 to 16.

U to M is y breast measure.

M to N is 2y inches.

Square up and down from N.

N to Q is one seam less than y breast.

Square up from Q to R.

X to Y is y inch less than y breast.

Measure back from A to T; place this amount at Qandmeasure up net length of strap to V and draw a

line from V to L for height of shoulder.

20 is halfway between M and Q.

Draw a line from 20 through Y for run of lapel.

N to 19 is 4 inches and P to 18 is 3^ inches.

The lower button is placed y inch below sweep line P,

and the top button y inch below the breast line.

THE COLLAR.

Draw a line from first button through shoulder point Vup to 22.

22 to 23 is y inch. 23 to 24 is iy inches. 23 to 25

is 2 inches.

The width of collar at notch is 2^ and the lapel at

notch is 3 inches.


Note —Wuen the width of top of back from A to S

is y inch more than Y% breast the distance from R to

V is y2 inch, and if the width of back from A to S is

made % breast the distance from R to V will be yinch.


PLATE XXVII.

/"


DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK.(explanation of PLATE XXVIII.)

The draft is produced by proportions from the

following measurements:

Natural waist length, 1 7}i Breast, 38

Fashionable waist length, ig}( Waist, 34Full length, 41 Seat, 39


TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3?r| inches. B to C is yi breast.

A to D is natural and to E fashionable length of waist

and to F full length of coat.


C to G is y2 breast and G to H is 2^ inches.

Square up and down from H.

C to M is one inch more than J^ breast (21 on halves).

M to J and M to L is % inch more than yi breast.

Square up from L and square up and down from J.

I to T is ^ breast, T to S is one seam less than yi

breast and R to S is y2 inch.

Draw a line from H to T.

S to 7 is ]/\ breast and 7 to 8 is i~y inches.

A to N is Y% breast plus y inch and N to is -^ inch.

Draw a line from S to P, measure distance from O to Pand make distance on straight line from S to Q $A

inch less than O to P.

J to 14 is yi breast. P to 19 is 2^ inches.

19 to 20 is Yi inch down and forward.

D to 1 is 3 inches and 1 to 2 is 1 inch.

( Continued

Square down from M to W. W to 3 is 1 inch and 3 to

4 is 1 inch.

D to X is Yi breast. Measure distance from 1 to X and

go back from U to V same amount that there is

from 1 to X, and draw a line from V through 2 for

spring of skirt.

Point 5 is y2 inch above point 6. The side body must

be stretched out in hollow of waist this amount.

Measure the distance from 6 to 17, and make distance

from 5 to 16 the same, then sweep from 16 to 15

by shoulder point S, and add ij{ inches to sweep

at 15 for front length.

Y to n is 2,% and H to 12 is 3^ inches.

8 to 9 is 3/s inch.

22 is halfway between J and Ff. Draw a line from 22

through 9 and from 22 through 8 for run of lapel

and collar.

The width of lapel at notch is 3 and the collar 2

inches.

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR.

Draw a line from first button hole below the roll through

shoulder point S to 23.

S to 23 is width of top of back, 23 to 24 is yi inch and

24 to 25 is \}i inches collar stand. The width of

turn-over of collar in back is 2^ inches.

J to 18 is y% of natural waist length.

The pocket opening is 7}^ inches, V3 of this amount is

back of 18 and ^3 in front of 18.


on page 66.")

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. v 65

PLATE XXVIII.


DOUBLE-BREASTED PADDOCK.( Continued from page 64 )

(explanation of plate xxix.)

A paddock cut with sidebody attached to the skirt Split the sidebody across as from G to F, and swing

invariably results in a shortness of sidebody, and it it over until it meets the forepart, as at E, A.

has to be stretched down a great deal in order to We have now gained about i/± inch extra length of

produce a smooth fitting garment in the waist and over sidebody at G. Paste a piece of paper over the open-

the hips. ing, and reshape the side seam by hollowing out }( inch

An easy method of overcoming this difficulty is at the hollow of the waist at G. Add about j4 inch

shown in Plate xxix. We will take the regular pattern as more spring all the way down, as per crossed line,

drafted on the preceding page. The V under the arm Now reshape the V under the arm. The distance

extends down to the pocket opening, as from A to B. from C to B will be about }( inch shorter than the dis-

The pocket extends from B to C. tance from C to D.

Lay a pleat on the pattern as from J to K, running The lower edge of the pocket opening must be worked

out to nothing at C. This will open up the pocket from in a trifle, and the upper edge may be stretched a very

^ to 1 inch, as from B to D. The sidebody will then little, so a-; to have them come out even,

be as per dotted lines F, E, H, G, and there will be an By this operation we have secured the extra side

opening, or space, of about 1 inch betweei the sidebody length wanted, and shortened the front edge, which is

and forepart, as from dotted line E to A. really needed.


PLATE XXIX.


THE OLD STYLE INVERNESS COAT.

(explanation of PLATE XXX.)

The old style Inverness is drafted from the regular

proportions from the following measures:

Inside length of sleeve, 19

Length, 41

Collar,

Breast,

17

40


TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3^ inches and B to C is }i breast.

A to D is 17 inches (}( of height), to E, full length, 40

inches.

D to F is }£ breast.

Square lines B, C, F, D and E.

C to G is j4 breast and 3 inches (23 inches). Divide

this into eighths (23 on eighths) for working power.

H is half way between C and G.

H to I is y&.

H to J is y% (23 on eighths).

Square up and down from I and up from J.

A to L is }£, and N to O is }4 (23 on eighths).

L to M is 5/s inch.

O to P is 'A inch.

Draw a line from P to B, and a line from M to K;

where these two lines cross is point R.

F to 12 is y inch.

Draw a line from A through 12 to V.

V to W is ^ breast (10 inches).

Draw a line from K to W.

Draw a line from N through waist line T.

S to U is S/s inch.

U to X is the same as S to W.

Sweep from X to Y by P.

Y to Z is i}{ inches.

P to Q is the same as M to R.

P to 1 is the same as width of back at the top of the

neck.

The neck gorge is produced by the size of collar worn;

in this case 17 collar.

From i to 2 is J/z inch less than Yz neck (or 16 on

thirds).

Square out from 2 to 3.

2 to 3 is yi net neck or collar measure, 17 on thirds.

3 to 4 is Y% inch.

4 to s is 2y inches.

G to 6 and 7 to 8 is 2^ inches.

Front edge at bottom is i}£ inches out from Y.

THE CAPE.

The length of cape is obtained by applying the inside

sleeve length, 19 inches, from I to 10; sweep for-

ward and back from 10, using shoulder point P as

pivot; draw a line from K through F, and shape

from K to Q, as shown in diagram. The front of

cape comes to within 1 inch of the front of the

forepart. Both the coat and cape are finished fly

front, and button up to the neck.

The side pockets are located by coming down y2 inch

more than 7/3 natural waist length. This garment

has a turndown military collar, and is drafted as

illustrated by shaded collar.


A to B is 10 inches, half of collar.

A to C is 2 inches.

B to D is T.y inches.

D to E is 2 zy inches.

C to F is 2 J4 inches.


PLATE XXX.


NEW STYLE INVERNESS COAT.

(explanation of PLATE XXXI.)

The new style Inverness is drafted by the regular

proportions from the following measures:

Length to waist, 17 Breast, 40

Full length, 50 Neck, 19

Sleeve length, 19


TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3% inches and B to C is yi breast.

A to D is natural waist length and F full length of coat.

D to E is Zyi inches (half of natural waist length).


C to G is yi and C to H ^ of breast.

G to-I is 1 J^ inches.

The regular division of breast as used in coat draft can

be used.

Square up and down from I and up and down from H.

I to J is yi breast and J to U is yi inch.

D to 1 is yi inch.

Draw a line from A through 1 to F for center of back.

A to R is yl inch more than }i breast and R to S is %inch.

C to M is half of breast measure and M to N is 2^inches.

Square up from N to O and down from N through P to n.

to T is yl breast and O to Y is yi inch less than %breast.

Shoulderpoint at T is yi inch below line O, X; draw a

line from T to J, and make distance from T to Vyi inch less than back shoulder, S to U.

W is yi below 7.

Draw a line from V to W for run of shoulder seam.

Y to 4 is yi inch and Y to 18 is 2j£ inches.

H to L is yi breast.

1 to 2 is 1 yi inches. Square forward to 8 for depth of

scye; the run of scye is from yi inch back of Tthrough L and 8 and up to breast line back of

scye at I.

Draw a line from X through O to 10 for run of spring

(or apply seat measure from E to 15, place this

amount at 13 and measure back to 14, one-half of

seat, and add 5^ inches, then draw a line from Qthrough 14). The strain across back that usually

appears on this style of coat is obviated by allow-

ing the forepart to extend up to breast line I, in-

stead of cutting it across on line 2-8.

Q to 10 is the same as Q to K.

Sweep from 10 to n by T.

11 to 12 is iyl inches.

N to 17 and P to 16 is 2yi inches, and from 12 to front

edge is yi inch.

THE CAPE.

H to Z is 19^, being yi inch more than sleeve length.

Sweep forward from Z to 20 and back from Z to 31,

using point T as pivot; then sweep from 31 to 21,

using point X as pivot.

J to 22 is }< breast.

Draw a line from 22 through 2 for run of cape; shape

top of cape from 23 through shoulder point at Uto 24.

24 is halfway between 7 and W.

25 is 2 inches above I.

Sweep from 25 to 23 using Point V as pivot and notch

23 and 25, and the fulness, about 1^ inches, mustbe between 29 and 30. The opening of cape, point

27, is 5 inches up. Sweep from 27 to 26 and notch

these points.

The front of cape is yi inch smaller than the fore-

part, as per broken line. There is yi inch V taken out

of the forepart at neck, but none on the cape. Thefront of both the coat proper as well as front of the

cape is made up with a fly. The cape has five and the

coat six buttons on the front; there is a hook and eye

at end of collar point 4. The collar is the regular mil-

itary style, and covered with velvet drafted as follows:

Square lines X, 3, 4.

3 to 4 is 2 inches and 4 to X is length.

Square up from X to 6.

X to 5 is \yi and 5 to 6 is zyi inches.

The width of collar in front is 2^ inches. The pockets

are located by coming down from 4 to 9,2/i of

sleeve length, 19 on J^rds on the square.



PLATE XXXI.

7*


RAGLAN OVERCOAT.(explanation of PLATE XXXII.)

In this draft we have a short Raglan overcoat. Whendrafted by this method there will be plenty of size in

the coat without swinging the pattern or inserting extra

fullness, as is done when an ordinary coat draft is used.

This draft is produced from the proportions of height

and width, as follows:

Breast, 40 | Height, 5 feet 8 inches.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3^4 inches.

B to C is y'i breast.

A to D is 17 inches (yl of height).

D to E is Sy2 inches {yi of height).

E to F is 14}^ inches (making entire length 40 inches).


C to G is half of breast measure.

G to H is 3 inches.

C to I is one inch more than y? breast (22 on halves).

I to K is yi breast, and

I to J is z/s net breast measure (20 on eighths).

Square up and down from J and K.

L to M and L to N is S/% inch.

A to W is yi net breast.

W to X is J4 inch.

J to Z is i'a breast.


U to V is 5 inches.

Draw a line from Z through V for spring, and hollow

the side seam §4 inch at waist line 8.

See sleeve on

Square up and down from H to P and through T.

P to Q is yA inch.

Square back from Q to 21.

Q to R is one seam less than yl net breast (4% inches).

Draw a line from R to M.

Q to S is yl inch more than yi breast.

R to Y is y& inch less than X to N.

H to 13 and O to 12 is 2j( inches.

T to 11 is 2 inches.

Z to 7 is the same as Z to 6.


9 to 10 is lyi inches.

K to 20 is 34 'ncn more than y$ waist length.

The collar is drafted by drawing the break line of

lapel from top button at 13 to a point y£ inch forward

of R, as at 14. Wherever this line crosses the gorge

draw a line from there through shoulder point R to 15

for break of the collar.

15 to 16 is iyl inches and 15 to 17 is i}£ inches.

The width of lapel and collar at notch is 1^ inches.

The back notch for sleeve at point 18 is iV breast

down from L, and the front notch at 19 is ^ inch up

from point K.

This completes the regular overcoat draft. For the

Raglan coat the shoulders and back are cut off as per

shaded portion. The amount cut off must be according

to style and fancy. On the accompanying draft the

distance from R to 23 is S/% inch, and from N to 21

is xyl inches.

next page.


PLATE XXXII.


THE RAGLAN SLEEVE.(explanation of plate xxxiii

)

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 12 breast.

A to C is % breast, and C to D is % inch.

D to J is length of sleeve, i8j^ inches.

I is half way between D and J.

Square lines B, C, D, I and J.

C to F is half inch less than j^ breast.

G is half way between C and F.

Square up from G to H and draw a line from H to C.

Square down from E to P.

P to Q is inch.

Lay corner of square on J, let long arm rest on G, and

square across from J to S.

J to S is 7j4 inches. Draw a line from Q to S.

D to M and J to O is -Vg inch. Draw broken line (which

indicates the undersleeve) from M to O.

D to L and J to N is 5^ inch. Shape inside of top

sleeve from L through K to N.

Shape top of sleeve from C through H to F.

F to R is i% inches. Shape undersleeve as per broken

lines, and the regular coat sleeve draft is complete.

To cut a Raglan sleeve, square up lines from E to Tand A to U, on sleeve draft; then measure back of the

coat from sleeve notch, 18, through 21 and 20 to x.

Apply this same length on sleeve from E to T and add

Y^ inch for fulness. Next, measure the front shoulder

from notch at 19 through 25 and 24 up to R. Apply

this length on the sleeve draft from C to U and add

i}( inches for fulness. Then sweep from U to V by C,

and from T to V by E. Where these two sweeps cross at

V is the top of sleeve. Next, in order to get the proper

shape of the top of sleeve, I take the two pieces cut off

the shoulder and place them in position on top of

sleevehead, as indicated by shaded portion, letting it

overlap the top sleeve two seams as at H.

Then shape from F through Y to V, as per shaded

part. By shaping the front part of the sleeve add *4

inch or two seams at W and X, running into the sleeve-

head just above point C. This completes the Raglan

sleeve.

PLATE XXXIII.


SLEEVES.

In order to produce the correct size of sleeve to fit

the armscye the sleeve must be cut by the size of the

scye. First measure the size of scye, then take a notch

on the back of coat pattern for the outside seam of

sleeve, then make a mark on forepart for the front

center of sleeve. The front notch for the sleeve on

the coat is Y% inch up from the breast line, and the

back notch is % breast up from bottom of scye line,

or down S. breast from line top of shoulder. This

last point only holds good where the distance from Kto i on the coat is yi breast. Therefore the better

way is to go up ^ breast from breast line to locate

the back notch. The sleeve is drafted by the breast

measure in the following manner: If the size of scye is

17, the sleeve is drafted by 36 breast; always take the

actual size of scye, to this add one inch which corre-

sponds with half of breast measure, T7 scye, add 1 inch

making it 18, half of 36 breast; cut sleeve by 36

proportion. 18 scye, add 1 inch making it 19; cut

sleeve by 38 breast. 21 scye add 1 inch making it 22;

cut 44 size sleeve. Always add one inch to scye

measure and multiply the amount by two to find the

size of breast to cut the sleeve by.

The scye in a normal coat in all sizes will be one

inch less than half of breast. The scye in a fat man's

coat will be on the average of 2 inches less than half of

breast measure in all sizes.

The scye in normal coats where client has a muscular

arm sometimes measures as much as half of breast. In

such cases cut the sleeve by the breast proportion found

by adding one inch to actual size of scye. Size 40

sleeve in a 38 coat, or for a fat man 44 sleeve in 46

breast coat.

If this principle is adhered to the sleeves will in all

cases be the correct size for the scye. First be sure

that the armscye is the correct size then cut the sleeve

by it.

If in a try-on the scye has been made larger or

smaller the sleeve must be altered to fit the scye.

In locating the back notch on the coat for the

sleeve seam, the proportionate breast measure obtained

from the size of scye must be used.


THE NORMAL SLEEVE.

The black portion of Diagram in Plate xxxiv repre-

sents the upper sleeve and the white portion the under

sleeve. The inside seam is ^ inch underneath from

the front center. The sleeve is drafted from the com-

bined size of breast and scye.

Breast, 36|Scye, 17 |

Drafting power, 36


A to B is ii and A to C yl breast.

C to D is yl inch.

Square lines B and D.

C to F is 5^ inch more than ]/2 scye or % inch less than

y? breast.

G is half way between C and F. Square up and downfrom G, and draw a line from H to C.

D to M is sleeve length, iS^ inches (17 units of height).

N is half way between D and M.

Lay corner of square at M, let long arm rest on G, and

square back from M to Q.

M to Q is i>Yi inches, or whatever size is desired.

Square down from F to O, and go out from O to P 1 inch.

Draw a line from F to P and from P to Q.

N to V is 1 inch. Shape inside of sleeve from C through

V to M.

E to I is Yz inch less than y& breast.

K to L is ^ inch.

D to T and M to R is % inch.

M to S and D to U is 3^ inch.

F to V is 1 Va inches.


SLEEVE FOR A LARGER SCYE THAN NORMAL.(explanation of PLATE XXXV.)

The diagram represents an ordinary sleeve with the

inside seam running one inch under from the front

center of sleeve. The draft is produced from the fol-

lowing measures:

Scye, 20I

Breast, 40|Drafting power, 42

In this case we have a client with a large muscular

arm who requires an extra large scye. Therefore the

sleeve must be larger than the proportionate, 20 scye,

to this add one inch, making it 21, which is equal to a

42 breast proportion, so the sleeve is drafted by 42

breast.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is i\ and A to D is ^ breast.

D to C is ^ inch.

Square lines A, B and C.

C to M is inside length of sleeve.

N is half way between C and M.

Square out from N to L.

D to E is % inch more than half of scye, or % inch

less than ]/2 breast.

F ishalf way between D and E.

Square up and down from F and draw a line from Gto D.

U is Y% inch above top line A and V is y% inch out from

line D G.

Shape top sleeve as represented.

Square down from E to K.

K to L is ^ inch.

Draw a line from E to L.

Lay corner of square at M, let long arm rest on F and

square across from M to P.

M to P is Yz inch more than half the size desired at

bottom of sleeve at hand.

D to R is one inch and M to Q is one inch.

Shape top sleeve.

E to J is one inch.

C to T and M to S is one inch.

I is half way between F and H.


PLATE XXXV.

78 STONE'S NEW -SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

THE SLEEVE FOR A FAT MAN'S COAT.

( EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXXVI.)

As every cutter knows, a sleeve drafted by the breast

measure proportions will be too large for the scye, as

the scye in a fat man's coat is not proportionately as

large as in a regular normal size; therefore, it is best to

cut the sleeve by the size of the scye, which for a 46

breast fat man's coat will be 2 1 inches. To this add one

inch, making it 22, half of 44 breast. So the sleeve is

drafted by 44 breast proportion for a 46 size coat.

The accompanying sleeve draft is what is termed a

half and half sleeve, with the inside seam running

under at top and bottom.

Drafting Power,

PLATE XXXVI.

I K

44

'TO DRAFT.


A to B is A breast.

A to C is y± breast.

C to D is J4 inch.

C to G is ^ inch less than y2 breast, or 3^ inch more

than J^ scye.

H is half way between C and G.

Square up and down from H and draw a line from I to C.

Y to L is 3/i inch and Z to K is ^4 inch.

Square down from D to F.

Square down from G to M.

D to F is 18}^ inches, inside length of sleeve.

E is half way between D and F.

Square out from E to M N.

M to N is y2 inch; draw a line from G to N.

E to O is 1 y inches.

D to R and F to T is S/8 inch.

Lay corner of square at F, let long arm rest on H and

square across from F to P.

F to P is 7 inches.

F to S and D to Q is S/8 inch.

W is half way between H and J.

G to U is one inch.


For good trade the upper sleeve should be cut a seamhigher at G and held on a trifle full to under-

sleeve from V to G in order to give it the desired

round effect.


VARIATIONS IN SLEEVES.

(explanation of PLATE XXXVII.)

PLATE XXXVII.

The upper portion of the sleeve above line A Kwill remain the same for all shapes, and will fit the scye

for all shapes providing that the lower portion of the

sleeve below line A K is swung forward or back ac-

cording to the position and attitude of the client for

whom we are cutting the coat. If the coat is drafted

one inch stooping then the lower portion of the sleeve

must be stooped the same amount. This is done by

drafting the top portion of the sleeve regular above

line A K. Line A B is the normal sleeve. For a figure

which is one inch stooping, swing lower portion of

the sleeve forward as from B to G, one inch. If for an

erect figure swing lower portion of the sleeve back as

from B to E.

A, B, C and D is the normal sleeve.

A, G, C, H is the sleeve for a stooped and A, E, C and

F for an erect figure.

If we take a regular sleeve pattern and split it through

from A to K, open up the pattern and insert one-half

of the amount of the stoop at K, the bottom of sleeve will

swing over as from B to G. For an erect figure I overlap

the sleeve pattern at K one-half of the erect, and the

sleeve will swing back as from B to E. The change

needed for a stooped figure is more length on the out-

side, and for an erect figure less outside length. By. cutting out the three sleeves, normal, stooped and erect,

and comparing them by holding the lower portion even,

there will be quite a difference in the sleeve top, although

the tops are all cut the same.

G B E


COMBINATION CAPE METHOD.(explanation of PLATE XXXVIII.)

From this method may be drafted the % circle

military cape or the regular shoulder cape with a seam

in the center of the shoulder. The accompanying

draft is for a normal figure, 40 breast:

TO DRAFT.

Draw a straight line from A down to R.

Make a point at A.

A to B is J^ breast.

A to C is y2 breast.

Square back from C to D.

C to D is Y% breast.

Lay corner of square at point A, letting short arm rest

at point D and draw back center line from A to E.

A to F is yi breast.

A to G is % breast.

F to S is yi breast.

Square up from S to T.

Square lines from G through P to O, and from B

through P to N.

Draw line from A through point P.

Apply length desired from F to E.

Sweep from E through N to R, using point T as pivot.

C to U is 2j£ inches.

Square down from U to V.

Draw line from A through W to U.

Add from W to X and U to Y, 2 inches, or whatever is

desired for lap in front.

The full size of the draft will make a fy circle cape,

and by splitting it through on the shoulder from T to P

and plaiting N over to O as per dotted line 8, 9 P O,

we have a Y circle with a V taken out in the shoulder.

By cutting pattern as illustrated by the shaded portions

the regular close-fitting cape is obtained.

THE COLLAR.

The collar is drafted by drawing a line from 1 to 2.


1 to 3 is 2 inches.

Shape from 2 to 3 as illustrated in diagram.

2 to s is 1 yl inches for stand.

5 to 6 is 3 inches.

1 to 4 is 2 inches.

Lay corner of square at 3, letting arm rest on point 4

and square down from 3 to 7 for front of collar.

VARIATIONS.

\ For a client with a long heck add from C to Mwhatever extra height in neck is desired, square back

from N to J and lay corner of square at point A, draw

back center line from A to K as indicated by dotted

line.

For a short neck figure go up from C to L whatever

extra amount neck is shorter than proportion. Square

out to point H and draw back center line from A to I

as indicated by dot and dash line. For stooped or

erect figures slide point A up or down on back center

line according to whatever stoop or erect is wanted.

For a % inch stooped form go down from A to 2,

half inch, and for a x/2 inch erect form go back from Ato 3, half inch, then change the neck gorge to conform

to the new center point, i. <?., for a stooped figure 2 to

F should be yi and 2 to B % breast, and in an erect

figure 3 to F is yi and 3 to B %. The cape is usually

made fly-front and has a Prussian collar.


PLATE XXXVIU.

81

/W


VESTS.

The vests are drafted the same as the coats, with the exception that only two inches is added to half of breast

measure instead of 2]/^ inches in the coat. The average length of the vest may be obtained by taking one-fourth

of the height and one-fourth of the waist circumference and add them together, as follows:

One-fourth of 5 feet 8 inches height is 17 inches.

To this add one-fourth of 32 waist, - - 8 inches.

Length, - 25 inches.

Or, y of height, - - 17 inches.

And y of 48 waist, - 12 inches.

Length, - - - - 29 inches.

Of course the length of the vest is governed by prevailing style, but the foregoing rule can be applied to

advantage when cutting by heights and widths only.

SINQLE=BREASTED VEST FOR A NORMAL FIGURE.(explanation of PLATE XXXIX.)

Breast, 36 Waist,


32

TO DRAFT.



B to C is Yi breast.

A to D is y{ height (17 inches).


C to E is 2 inches more than half of breast measure.

M is half way between C and E.

M to N and M to O is ^ inch more than y breast.

Square down from M through Q and square up from

N and O.

E to G is ys breast. Square up to H and draw a line

from E to H.

Draw a line from H to B.

H to I is y% breast. Draw a line from I to J.

O to P is yi breast.

A to K is yl inch more than y& breast.

K to L is S/s inch. Draw a line from L to J.

A to 1 and L to 2 is yi inch.

J to 3 is % inch, 4 to 5 is 1 inch and M to 6 and 7 is y inch.

I to 8 is the same as 2 to 3.


Apply front length from 10 to V whatever the meas-

ure of the opening may call for, and add y inch for

seams. Then apply front length from 10 to W, 25

inches, and add 1 inch for seams. Then apply side

length from 10 to X and add 1 inch for seams. Theside length may be obtained by dividing the y of waist

into three parts and deducting y, of this amount from

front length. y'i of 8 inches is 273 inches; therefore

the side length will be 2 = 3 less than front.

F to T is T.y, inches and line U, S is y inch below Q.Shape front from H through E, F, T, and come back

y inch at 12.

T to U is 9 inches, one inch more than y waist.

D to R is y inch and R to S is 9 inches, one inch morethan y waist.

Draw a line from I to V.

I to 9 is y, inch.

Square back from X to Z.

II is half way between Z and D.


PLATE XXXIX.


FULL DRESS VEST(explanation OF PLATE XL.)

The full-dress vest is drafted the same as any

ordinary vest with the exception that only i^ inches is

added to half breast measure. The draft is produced


Opening,

Full length,

Side,

20

24^

Breast,

Waist,

37

33


TO DRAFT.


A to B is 334 inches and B to C is y'i breast.

A to D is natural waist, 17 inches (^ of height).


C to E is \yi inches more than half of breast measure.

Square down from E to 12.

E to G is % inch less than }i breast.

Square up from G to H, draw a line from H to E and

shape front center line from H through 15 and E,

through F and T and back 3/% inch at 12.

Draw a line from H to B.

H to I is yi breast.

Draw a line from I to J.

A to K is % inch more than ys breast (20^ oneighths).

K to L is i/% inch.

Draw a line from L to J.

J to 3 is Y^ inch and 4 to 5 is 1 inch.

M to 6-7 is y2 inch.

D to R is ^ inch.

F to T is xyi inches, and point U, S is ^ inch below Q.

R to S is Vz waist and ^ inch, and T to U is ^ waist

and yl inch.

A to 1 and L to 2 is J^ inch.

I to 9 is y& inch.

I to 10 is the same as width of back, 1 to 2.

Apply length of opening from (10 to V) 20, and y£

inch for seams, and full length from 10 to W, 24^,and 1 inch for seams. Next apply the side length,

22^, with one inch allowance for seams.

Square back from X to Z. Point n is half way be-

tween D and Z.

The width of the opening is regulated by style and

fancy, but by keeping the front center line in view

as a guide to shape the opening by, I proceed as

follows:

15 to 16 is y% breast and 13 to 14 is y& breast.

Shape from 9 through 16, }( inch back of G and

through 14 to V.


PLATE XL.


DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST.

(explanation of plate xli.)

The accompanying draft is of a double-breasted

vest with lapels cut off, the collar laid on flat, and the

facing cut through on the lapels so as to give a regular

double-breasted lapel effect.

The following proportions are used in drafting:

Breast, 38 Waist, 34Height, 5 feet 10 inches.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 3^ inches,

B to C is y$ breast, and C to D is y2 inch.

A to E is 17*^ inches (}( of height).


D to G is 2 inches more than half of breast measure.


P is half way between D and G.

P to 2 and P to 3 is }£ inch more than }£ breast, or

Yd breast from 5 to Q, and 4 to R may be used.

2 to S is ^ breast.

A to N is % inch more than y& breast.

Draw a line from N to M.

N to O is 3/& inch.

Lower the back at neck 3/& inch below O.

E to Z is y2 inch.

H to Y is T.y-2, inches, and T to 6-7 is ^ inch.

I to L is }i breast.

L to J is ^ breast.

J to K is y2 inch. Draw a line from K to M.

K to 10 is the same as N to 1.

y% inch is added forward of point K for collar stand.

Y to 6 is one inch more than y2 waist, and Z to 7 is

one inch more than half waist (on division).

W to 11 is 3 inches and V to 12 is 2 inches.

Apply the opening and full length measures the same

as in the preceding diagram.


PLATE XLI.


DOUBLE-BREASTED NO=COLLAR VEST.(explanation of PLATE XLII XLI1I.)

The double-breasted no-collar vest is drafted the

same as the single-breasted vest, with the exception that

only 1 24 inches is added to half of breast at front.

The draft is made from the following measures:

Breast, 39|

Waist, 35

Height, 6 feet.

TO DRAFT.


A to B is 4 inches, and B to C is Yi breast.

A to Pis 18 in. (Y of height). Square lines B, C and P.

C to D is 1^ inches more than half of breast measure.

Square up and down from D.

C to G is 1 inch more than y2 breast (21Y on halves).

G to I and G to J is Y inch more than Y breast (21^on eighths).

Square up from I and J and down from G through H.

K to 7 is Y and 1 to 2 is 1 inch.

A to L is Y\ inch more than Y breast. Draw a line

from L to K.

L to M is Y% inch. A to 9 is ^ inch.

F to Q. is Y inch less than Y breast.

Q to N is Y breast and N to O is Y inch.

Draw a line from O to K. O to 8 is the same as M to 7.

Add forward from O, Y incn ror collar stand.

Apply the lengths which in this case are as follows:

Y height, - - 18 inches.

Y waist, - -

2>Y inches.

For front length, - 26^ inches.

One-fourth of 8 3/^ is a fraction less than 3 inches, but

for all practical purposes I deduct 3 inches in this

case from the front length for the side length which

will make the side length 233^ inches. Apply

these measures on the pattern, add Y inch to open-

ing length and 1 inch to front and side lengths.

D to Y is 3 inches and W to X is i% inches.

The buttons are spaced back by folding the pattern on

line D-E. Make an impression with pencil through

front end of button-holes to locate buttons.

E to R is Y inch more than Y* waist. P to S is Y inch.

S to T is 1 inch more than Y waist (on division).

The length of the back from 9 to 6 may be obtained

the same as explained in Plate xxxix, or an actual

measure can be used.

This mode of drafting will produce a well-fitting

single-breasted vest; but if double-breasted the front

edges will be too long, and although the edges can be

worked in enough to make the vest fit smoothly, yet it

spoils the pattern of the goods, and the edges are apt to

pucker. So by splitting the pattern through the top

pocket and overlapping the patterns about 1 inch, as

from 17 to 18 in Plate xliii, running out to nothing at 16,

we will open up the pocket. Then a V can be cut from

the pocket to armscye, as from 13 to 15 and 14 to 22.

Or if preferred the V may run out in the side seam same

as in fat man's vest. Add a seam at 15 and 22, running

out to nothing at 13 and 14 after plait has been laid.

Apply front length and reshape forepart as dotted

lines at 19 and 20. This has not straightened the

shoulder. The front edge has simply been shortened.

PLATE XLIII.


PLATE XLII.


VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE.

(explanation of plate xliv.)

The fat man's vest is drafted the same as a fat man's

coat. The yi of extra fat added in front, and its y, of

remaining fat will be cared for by applying the waist

measure regularly. The draft is produced from the


Opening, 16 Breast, 46

Length, 20^ Waist, 48

Side length, - 2S%Height, 5 feet 10 inches.

TO DRAFT. '


A to B is sj4 inches. B to C is ^ breast.

A to D is y of height (17^ inches).

Square lines B, C, D.

C to E is 2 inches more than y breast measure.

Square down from E through F.

M is halfway between C and E.

M to N, and M to O is ^ inch more than y& breast.

Square up lines N and O, and square down from Mthrough Q.

E to G is yi breast.

Square up from G to H.



more than breast, hence there is 6 inches extra fat to be

added to the waist. The normal front center line will

run through H E F. Having found the extra fat to be

6 inches, only half of this amount is used, as only half

of the vest is drafted. Add 2/i of the fat in front and

Yi in the side, as follows: F to R is 2 inches, or y$ of

the fat. Square down from R to 12. For every inch

of fat added at front of waist recede y inch at H. In

this case H to 10 is y2 inch. Draw a line from 10 to

E, and add from E to it, ^ inch, being yfa inch for

every inch of fat added to the front. Shape front cen-

ter from 10 through 11, S to 12.

R to S is 2 inches, and Q to U is 1 inch.

S to 14 is 1 inch more than y> waist.

D to T is y inch. T to 13 is 1 inch more than y2waist.

Draw a line from 10 to B.

10 to I is y% breast.

Draw a line from I to J.

A to K is y inch more than y breast.

K to L is sy inch.

Draw a line from L to J.

Shape back shoulder from L to J.

A to 1 and L to 2 is y inch.

J to 3 is 1 inch.

Point 5 is 1 ^ inches back from line J M.

M to 6 is y inch.


to P is y breast.


Apply length of opening from 17 to V, and add yinch for seams. Then apply front length to W, and add

1 inch for seams. Apply side length to X, and add 1

inch for seams and y inch for V taken out in pocket,

as at 14.

From I to 9 is y% inch.

Square back from X to Y.

Point Z is half way between D and Y.

Shape as represent^.


PLATE^XLIV.


DOUBLE=BREASTED VEST FOR CORPULENT FIGURE.

(explanation of plate xlv.)

The double-breasted vest is drafted the same as the

single-breasted vest. The draft is produced from the


46

48

Opening, 16 Breast

Length, 29 Waist,

Side length, 25

Height, 5 feet 8-inches.

to draft.


A to B is 3% inches.

B to C is Yi breast.

A to D is ^ of height (17 inches).

Square lines B, C, D.

C to E is 2 inches more than y breast measure.

Square down from E through F.

M is half way between C and E.

Square up and down from E.

M to N, and M to O is y inch more than Y& breast.

Square up lines N and O, and square down from Mthrough Q.

G to R is }i breast.

F to H is 2 inches and Q to V is 1 inch.



more than breast, hence there is 6 inches extra fat to be

added to the waist. The normal front center line will

run through R, E, F. Having found the extra fat to

be 6 inches, only half of this amount is used, as only half

of the vest is drafted. Add fi of the fat in front and

Yi in the side, as follows: H to I is 2 inches, or y% of

the fat. Square down from I to J. For every inch of

fat added at front of waist recede Y\ inch at R. In this

case R to S is J4 inch. Draw a line from S to E, and

go forward at E y inch, being y inch for every inch

of fat added to the front. Shape front center from S

through Y inch forward at E, and y inch back at I

down to J.

F to H is 2 inches, and Q to V is 1 inch.

Draw a line from S to B.

S to T is y breast.

Draw a line from T to U.

A to K is y inch more than y breast.

K to L is y§ inch.

Draw a line from L to U.

A to 1 and L to 2 is J^ inch.

U to 3 is 1 inch.

4 to s is i JY inches.

M to 6 is Y inch.

T to 8 is the same as 2 to 3.

~ O to P is % breast.

T to 18 is the same as 1 to 2.

Apply length of opening from 18 to 10, and add yinch for seams. Then apply front length to J, and add

1 inch for seams. Apply side length to W, and add 1

inch for seams and y inch for V taken out in pocket,

as at 15.

From T to 9 is y% inch.

Square back from X to Y.

Point Z is half way between D and Y.

D to 16 is }4 inch.

16 to 17 is one inch more than y waist.

I to 15 is one inch more than y waist.

The lapel is drafted by drawing a line from 10 through

14 to 11.

II to 12 is 2 inches and 14 to 13 is 3 inches.

The forepart extends to crease edge of collar and the

collar is laid on flat.


PLATE XLV.


THEORIZING.

If a system of cutting is not geometrically correct it is practically wrong; if it cannot be applied in a

scientific manner to forms that are always varying and never in proportion, it is useless. Whether the prin-

ciples laid down in this work will answer such requirements, the student has doubtless decided for himself.

VARIATIONS IN THE SLOPE OF THE SHOULDER.( EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLVI.

)

Variations in the slope of the shoulder are illustrated

in Plate xlvi, Diagram i. Line M N R is the center

of the back. Line G Q is the center of the front, and

O P is the side center. Line N O G is what is known

as the breast line. It will be remembered that half of

the breast measure is divided into 8 equal parts—3 for

the back, 2 for the side and 3 for the front. The waist

being smaller than the breast the amount must be cut

out or suppressed at S and T. If the waist is larger

than proportion, or even larger than breast, the largest

amount should be added at Q and the smallest amount

at S.

If the lines of the neck and back were continued up

until they meet in the neck, we would have a cylinder

of the body capped with a cone, the apex of the cone

being at the top of the neck toward the back. In the

upper portion of the cylindrical part of the body is the

much disputed quantity of what we call the scye (the

major dorsal length), as from N to M or A to O. The

scye should be regulated according to the size of the

arm, and the safest method is to use the diameter of

the scye, or yi scye measure plus }$ inch from N to M.

If all lines run together, as at D, and the front,

back and shoulders are closed, we have formed the

cone. The closing points of the cone extend from the

top of the shoulders to the top of the neck (the minor

dorsal length), as from M to D and B to D. But

before going further we must more fully consider the

minor dorsal length, which may vary from 3 to 5 inches

in different figures. If we have a very square-shouldered

figure to cut for, the minor dorsal length becomes

shorter, as from M to F and B to F. On the other

hand, if the shoulders are low or the neck very long

this distance would be longer, as from M to E and Bto E, thus giving a different angle to the shoulder. As

an illustration, suppose the pattern represented by this

diagram to be split open at the side as from O to P.

Then suppose the back part is swung around so that

point D on the back will rest on point D on the fore-

part, using point A as pivot. The back line would

then run as line D H. If points F F are swung together

in this way, the back center line will run as line F J.

If points E E are placed together the back center line

will run like E I. Or, let us go to extremes and sup-

pose that the top of the neck to be at point L. Put

points L L together and we will have L K as back

center line. Of course such a case never occurs in

cutting, but it facilitates a comparison of the different

angles of the shoulders. By using point A as a pivot

for all the slopes of the shoulders, the slope has deviated

from points 5 5. This is not correct, for the shoulder

slope should terminate at points 5 5.

After having formed the cone of the shoulder it is

an easy matter to take a ring the size of the neck, slip

it over the cone, and when it is in place mark around

it and cut off the top of the cone. So we have the

neck hole, or gorge, and if our subject that we are

cutting the coat for has a small neck we must cut a

small neck hole, and if a large neck a large hole for

the neck.


PLATE XLVI.


THE NECK GORGE.(explanation of plate xlvii.)

Diagram 2 represents a pattern closed in the should-

ers, showing where the back sections meet the front sec-

tions, as at E F B. The cylindrical portion or body of

the coat extends up as far as E G and E H. The sec-

tions bounded by lines EGH and B are the cone-shaped

portions. If the distance from B to G and B to H can

be obtained by a measure we can begin to draft the

whole coat from the center of the cone, just at the top

of the neck. Then we can commence drafting by draw-

ing line B U. B to G is the minor dorsal length, from

G to E width of shoulder. Then using E as a pivot we

draw a sweeping line from G to H, and using B as pivot

sweep from G to H. Where these two sweeping lines

meet is point H. Then if a line is drawn from B through

H and from H to E we have the cone.

In order to have a hole for the neck, we have

to cut the top off this cone for the gorge. The head

is set on the body somewhat forward, consequently

if we were to use point B as a center the result would

be disastrous as far as the fit is concerned. So wemust advance, or slide down the center of the neck

to point Q. The exact distance from B to Q is regulated

by the position or attitude of the customer. If his figure

is stooped the distance will be more, and if "erect less.

As only three-fourths of the circle is used to form the

neck, it requires a larger circle for' a sloping shoulder

and a smaller one for a square shoulder to obtain the

same size neck gorge. The square shoulder takes up

more and the sloping shoulder less degrees of the circle;

hence the theory of using a circle will not always prove

correct, as the same degree of a circle will not suffice

for all shapes. As soon as we have lengthened or

shortened the neck or shoulder slope we have changed

the degree of the angle.


PLATE XLV1I.

2

o

I I

<f § 4-


STOOP AND SQUARE SHOULDERS.(EXPLANATION of plate xlviii.)

In long-necked or stoop-shouldered figures the dis-

tance from the top of the shoulder to the top of the neck is

longer than in a figure of regular shape; and this distance

is shorter in a square shouldered or short necked figure.

Plate xlviii, Diagram 3. The lower portion of Diagram

3 is the same as Diagram 1. I must again call the stu-

dent's attention to the division of the breast: three parts

for the back, three for the front and two for the arm;

thus making it three parts from M to 4, one part from 4

to 5, two parts from 5 to U, and one part from U to B.

It must be understood, however, that these equal divis-

ions hold good only when the front and back propor-

tion is of an equal size. In small blades the back pro-

portion will decrease and consequently the front will

increase; or, as cutters say, in large fronts the armscye

is further back and in large backs it is further front.

The former increases the front proportions and decreases

the back proportions, while the latter decreases the

front and increases the back proportions.

As a rule when a man stoops his shoulders becomelarger, and when he stands over-erect the shoulders and

blades will be smaller. But there are also figures that

stoop, with head inclined forward, with no change in

the lower or cylindrical portion of the body below line

L M.

In all such cases point A, which is located half

way between points 4 and 5, in the center of the arm

and top of the shoulder in a regular form, still remains

in the same center. We will use this as the shoulder

point, and so practically solve a difficult problem in

garment cutting. The search for an imaginary shoulder

point at the side of the neck has bothered cutters for

years. Let us see how this one works. Working from

point A to obtain the cone or close of the shoulders, wego up from M to H 3^ inches (for a normal figure 5

feet 8 inches in height), then square across from Hthrough E, draw a line from A through E and from Athrough D, and we have obtained the cone. We mayvary from this line for the shoulder seam, but only

according to the prevailing style or fancy. Suppose we

cut out the back, as in previous examples, use A as

pivot, and swing the pattern around so that point D will

lay on point E. Then point F will come to G, and HX I will be the neck gorge.

The foregoing is for a regular form. If we have a

1 inch stooping figure to cut for the back should be

raised as from H to J and from D to 1 one inch, draw-

ing a line from A through 1 to K. While this seems to

change the back and front slope of the shoulder, yet

the slant of the shoulder really remains the same. Wehave only changed the location of the neck gorge. This

has been raised, or advanced, as from H to J. The side

of the neck has also been advanced, as from X to 2,

and the gorge has been advanced and lowered as from

I to L. Still the back center line, H Y Z, remains on

the same angle in both instances.

This will not hold good in all cases, for there are

times when the front strap has to be shortened, which

will change the angle of the back line and also advance

and lower the neck gorge.


PLATE XLVIII.

L»*C.

IOO STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

CHANGES IN THE NECK GORGE.( EXPLANATION OF PLATE XLIX.

)

Looking at a man from the side, we see that the

head is not set on the center of the body, but is inclined

forward, in the stooped figure more and in the erect less

than normal. Consequently the apex of the cone which

caps' the cylindrical part of the body will not be in the

center of the neck. Various changes of position in the

neck gorge are illustrated in Diagram 4. As previously

explained, the divisional section lines on the front and

back will meet in the shoulder slope, on line E F B.

The center point B is the apex of the cone.

B to K is it of the size of the neck, or it neck on

division.

From K to Q is ^ breast on division. Make a

sweep as per solid line for neck gorge, as indicated by

points K, 6, H and Y.

Using Yz of half of breast for the diameter of the

neck would seem to produce too large a neck gorge,

but as only ^ of the circle is used it will correspond

with the proportionate size of the neck, which is |4 of

breast, or ^ of half of breast, or the same as width of

the back from shoulder to shoulder.

The different circles shown in the diagram represent

the different neck gorges. The solid and dash-line

circle is for the erect form, and the double circle for

the stooped form, showing that the neck gorge slides

up and down on the back center line. If the back is

raised at the top of the neck in a stooped form, as ex-

plained in Diagram 3, and if the center of the shoulder

is advanced, as per the line running from E through

point 6 to Q, it will be seen that the section lines 5 and

6 do not meet the section lines running from 10 to F,

but have been advanced from 3 to 6; also the line from

T to B has been advanced to Q. In fact the whole

front section of the coat has been advanced from the

breast line up.

If we use the sectional divisions of the breast in

drafting, we can better understand how to make the

various changes in drafting. If we want to retain the

connecting points of the sectional lines on the shoulder

it will be necessary, in the stooped form, to cut out the

amount as from 8 to T, running out to nothing at P.

For the erect form it will be necessary to insert a

piece, as from T to 9. Lines E, 7, K represent the

erect form.

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. IOI

PLATE XLIX.


DISPROPORTIONATE PROPORTIONS.(explanation of PLATE L.

)

When we find a subject measuring 38 breast that

requires a 36 proportionate back and a 40 proportionate

front, or 40 back and 36 front, then we have a figure

whose proportions are disproportionate. These dispro-

portions may be obtained by noting the attitude of our

client, or by a direct short or shoulder measure, or both.

The accompanying diagrams illustrate these dispropor-

tionate proportions.

The section line ABC between Diagrams A and

B, on Plate 1, gives the regular cross division of the

proportionate breast. A to B is one-half of the breast

measure, and C is half way between A and B. Points

D, B and F are eighths, and points G, H and I are

eighths, regular division of the breast. Diagram A rep-

resents the small back and large front. By actual meas-

ure we find that the blade is less than proportion (find

what proportion the blade is in according to measure

taken) and apply this from J to 5. If this measure is

on a proportion, one or two sizes less than the breast

measure the front section from 5 to 8 will increase the

same amount by decreasing the back sections, points

17 to 20 has been decreased. This is not correct unless

we want a smaller neck gorge, which is notwanted for

an erect figure, so I add enough to width of back at 17

to make it yi of the regular division. 21 to 25 is yg of

the disproportionate front section, but 25 to V must be

y& of the regular breast division.

In Diagram B we have just the opposite—large back

and small front. By increasing the back sections the

width of back has been increased, so I reduce the width

of back at 18 enough to make it }i of the regular breast

division. The front section, 23 to 24, is y& of the dis-

proportionate front division, and 24 to W is yi of the

regular proportionate breast division.

io4 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

THE STOOPING AND ERECT FIGURES.

(explanation of PLATE LI.)

Diagram C represents an erect figure.

A to G is the regulary inches for a figure 5 feet 8 inches.

Square across from A to B.

If our subject is found to be one inch erect lower the

back y2 of this amount, ^ inch from A to D, and

raise front y2 inch as from B to C.

C to F is yk breast. Draw a line from F to G.

Lower the shoulder seam for the back from H to I one-

half inch and raise the point for the front shoulder

same amount, y2 inch, from H to J.

Square across from D to E.

D to E is y inch more than y breast and E to M is

S/% inch.

For an erect form I add to back from D to L one-fourth

of the amount the back is lowered from A to D,

and make the back from L to M the regular pro-

portionate width.

Shape the back shoulder from M to I and the front

shoulder from K to V.

Points T and U is the regular y, breast up from S and R.

K to N is y inch less than y breast.

Diagram D represents the stooped figure, which is

the opposite to the erect form.

A to G is the regular 3^ inches for a 5 feet 8 inch

figure.

Square across from A to B, the regular proportionate

line.

If our subject is found to be one inch stooped raise the

back from AtoD^ inch and lower the front Bto

C y2 inch.

A to E is y inch more than yi breast and E to M is ^inch.

Advance top of back from D to L one-fourth the dis-

tance from A to D, and make width of back from

L to M the regular breast division.

Raise shoulder seam on the back from H to I one-half

inch and lower front shoulder H to J J^ inch.

C to F is y, breast and F to K is one seam less than

y% breast.

K to N is y inch less than y breast.

Points T and U remain normal % breast up from points

S and R.

In cutting the sleeve the back seam of the sleeve

must be lowered y inch for Diagram C and raised yinch for Diagram D. This is done by taking off y inch

from the upper sleeve and adding same amount to the

undersleeve on the outside seam for the erect form, and

taking off y inch from the undersleeve and adding it on

to the top sleeve for the stooping form.

These changes in the location of the back seam of

the sleeve are to have it correspond with the shoulder

seam of the coat. The back notch will in both the

stooping and erect form be iS breast down from shoulder

seam point I.

For variations in sleeves for stooping and erect

figures, see variations in sleeves, with sleeve diagrams.

STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 105

PLATE LI.


VARIATIONS IN NECK AND SHOULDERS.(explanation of plate lii.)

Some difficult problems in variations of neck and

shoulders are illustrated in Plate lii. In Diagram Athe solid lines represent a normal block pattern for a

man 38 breast, 5 feet 8 inches in height. Suppose you

have a customer measuring 38 breast, but with sloping

shoulders and a very long neck and wearing a high

standing collar. The kind of measures taken, short or

long, is immaterial, so long as the cutter takes and

applies them correctly. He should begin by measuring

from the nape of the neck, or the socket bone, down

to the bottom of the scye, front and back. By these

measures we determine the distance from A to B and

H to M. That is, we learn what the distance from Cto A and J to M should be, for the distance from B to

C is determined by the diameter of the scye and has

nothing to do with sloping or square shoulders.

Cutters who are not guided by this rule will always

have trouble with variations. The size of the scye re-

mains the same in sloping and square shoulders, and

the only place to make the necessary changes is from

the top of the shoulder to the top of the neck.

Having found by measurement that the customer

"needs 1 inch longer front and back from C to A and J

to M, raise the top of the back 1 inch, as from A to P

and K to O; then draw a line from O to G. This will

give the correct shape of the back to fit this figure.

The front also is raised 1 inch from M to N and S to T,

and the front shoulder is shaped from N to L. Nomatter how much the shoulder may slope, points Mand N will in all cases remain on line H J. By raising

the back at top of neck the slope of the back from 2 to

G will be too long to look well, so I raise the back one

inch from G to R, and take one inch off from the front

shoulder from L to Q as per broken lines.

The location of shoulders for sloping and square-

shouldered figures is still further illustrated in Diagram

B. The solid lines indicate the normal pattern, the

dotted ones the sloping shoulder, and the dot-and dash

line the square shoulder. Point C D is the normal

shoulder. For the sake of the illustration let us estab-

lish points A and B on the body, and measure our

client from these points up to the side of the neck. If

he has a square shoulder the measure from B to F will

be shorter and from A to F longer than they would be

in a normal figure. If the figure has slope shoulders

the distance from B to E will be more and from A to

E less. Suppose we use Oliver's method and apply the

measures from A and B up to side of neck; make a

sweep, and where the two sweeps cross will be the

shoulder point. If this method is followed the square

shoulder will advance, and the sloping shoulder will

recede, from the normal point.

For the top of the lower shoulder point make a sweep

from 4 to s and 6, using point W, which is yi breast

up from A for pivot.

THE LONG NECK.

See Diagram A.

If our client has a very long neck, upon taking a

measure from the socket bone up to where the top of

the coat collar should come, we find that the measure

of the collar stand is ij4 to perhaps ify inches. This

is too much for the collar stand alone. We will makeit 1 inch, and fill in the remainder J^ to J^ inch, as

from P to 1, O to 2 and N to 3. Advance the same

amount from T to 4, or else the lapel will be too narrow.

It will be observed that I have not advanced the

shoulder, but only raised the neck. It should be borne

in mind that there are some figures with sloping shoulders

which require no filling in the neck. There are also

figures of normal shape that have a long neck. Thecutter should not get the shoulder slope mixed up with

the height of neck. Some cutters think that there is no

difference between a sloping shoulder and a long neck,

but there certainly is a difference, especially if our

client wears a 2% inch shirt collar.


PLATE Lll.

DlAG-B


A COMPARISON OF LARGE AND SMALL WAIST.

(explanation of PLATE LIU.)

The size of the waist in an ideal figure is considered

to be one-sixth of breast less than breast, and in a

normal figure the waist is one-eighth of breast less than

breast.

The hip is one-twelfth of breast more than breast.

This holds good in ideal and normal figures, but to sim-

plify this I use the following rule:

For the average man the waist is four inches less

than breast, and the seat is one inch more than the

breast. In a normal draft I suppress one inch between

the back and sidebody and one inch between the sidebody

and forepart. This will make a four-inch suppression.

For corpulent figures I add two-thirds of the extra

size in front at waist and one-third of the extra size in

the side and back.

For smaller waisted figures I suppress at the side

under the arm whatever is needed to make up the size.

The waist suppression controls the balance of the coat,

and it can be seen at a glance that the front shoulder

point cannot be obtained by any sweeps or angles, for

in the fat man the waist measure may greatly exceed

the breast, while in another man the contrary may be

the case. This fact throws considerable light upon the

difficult matter of locating the much-disputed shoulder

point, and it will be seen at a glance that it is controlled

by the waist suppression; and taking Dr. Wampen'smethod as guide we will quickly arrive at the proper

method of waist suppression illustrated in Plate liii.

In Diagram A, point A to C is y2 breast plus i inch.

Square down from C to D and up to G. If the waist is

4 inches less than breast go back from D to E 2 inches,

lay corner of square at C, let arm rest on E and square

out from C to B. C to B is ^ breast plus 1 inch.

Square down from B to S. Shape lower portion of

body as shown in the diagram, allowing a little extra

spring on sidebody at Q, so as to keep the coat from

hugging the small waisted figure too closely at the waist.

The upper portion of this draft is according to mydivisions of the body. H, I, J, K is the diameter of the

scye. In closing the draft together at the waist it will

be seen that point F G has parted nearly two inches,

thus opening up the scye at the top, and points M Nwill be farther apart in a small waisted figure than in a

large waisted one. If we were to cut a coat for a figure

with a 42 breast and 42 waist we would have a regular

cylinder shape, all the lines would be regular, and the

divided points F G and D E would be united. But as

soon as we add to the waist over the breast we have the

opposite of the small waist, -as illustrated in diagram

B, which is 42 breast and 44 waist.

A to C is y2 breast plus 1 inch.

Square down from C to D.

D to E is ^ inch, which is x/i of the extra fat.

Lay the corner of the square at C, let the arm rest at

E and square out to B.

C to B is J4 breast plus 1 inch.

Square down from B to S and T.

T to U is 1 inch, being }i of the extra fat over the

breast.

It will be seen that in measure as we have opened the

draft at E D we have closed the top of the scye at G F,

and points M N are closer together.

This method of drafting by holding the back, front

and side centers will place the goods where needed for

all shapes and forms.

Although Dr. Wampen's method of waist suppression

is correct in theory, I find it somewhat complicated in

practice, and therefore advise students to use our regular

method which amounts to the same, only easier to

handle.


PLATE LIU.

I IO STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

BLADE. SHOULDER AND WAIST SUPPRESSION.(explanation of plate liv.)

in Plate liv are illustrated the relative positions of

blade, shoulder and waist suppression. The solid lines

in Diagram A indicate a proportionate pattern, and the

broken lines represent a pattern with a blade yl lncn

larger. A to B is the proportionate blade, and A to C

is the proportionate width of back. B to C is }{ breast

plus j4 inch. Line C to 13 is x/2 inch, which is the

suppression between the back and sidebody, as from

point R to S. Line D I locates the proportionate

shoulder point. T to U and V to X is the proportionate

waist suppression.

THE DISPROPORTIONS.

B to E is yl inch, according to blade measure,

which has advanced the front of the scye and reduced

the forepart across the breast yl inch. This reduction

should be divided equally, one-half on each side of the

side-ofneck shoulder point. Advance the shoulder

point as from D I to G J one-half of the blade increase,

or yi inch from I to J. Advance K to L the same. The

width of the scye should in all cases be regulated by

proportions, or by the diameter of the scye. The width

of the scye, according to -my rule of proportions, is yl

breast (on division). So in the proportionate draft

there is from B to C J^ breast plus yi inch, which locates

the width of back; and the extra yi inch added is sup-

pressed between back and top of sidebody, as from

R to S.

E to F is yl breast plus yi inch, and F to 4 is yi

inch. This will locate top of sidebody correctly in all

shapes; but line F will not locate width of back cor-

rectly in all cases, for in the large blade form the back

will be too wide, while in the small blade it will be too

small.

Therefore the following method should be used to

regulate the width of back:

C is the normal point and F the abnormal width of

back. Divide the distance between C and F into three

equal parts, and allow two parts for width of back. So

if the blade is yl inch larger the increase of width of

back will be yi inch, which is 2/% of the extra increase

of blade. The distance from 1 to 5 will then be yl

inch, instead of the normal yi inch, and the top of side-

body will be yl inch down. From 5 to 6 is the same as

1 to 5.

THE WAIST SUPPRESSION.

When the blade is changed it becomes necessary to

change the waist suppression. What is really wanted

for the form we have been dealing with is 'a larger pocket

over the blade. This is obtained by suppressing from

U to 7 one-fourth inch extra, which is of the extra

increase of blade from B to E.

Having advanced the scye it is well to add to the

sidebody from V to Z and V to 8 yl inch; reduce fore-

part from X to 9 whatever is added from V to 8; add

from W to 10 whatever has been taken out from U to 7,

and shorten the forepart from n to 12 whatever it has

been advanced from W to 10.

The shoulder point I is moved forward yi inch

upon I to J, and K to L is ^4 inch forward. Shoulder

point I changes with the blade forward and back one-

half the amount that the blade increases or decreases.

THE SMALL BLADE.

Where the blade measure is less than normal we

should employ a method the reverse o| the above, as

illustrated in Diagram B.

B is the proportionate or normal blade, and C the

normal width of back. B to E is yl inch, according

to blade measure. E to F is yl breast plus yi inch.

Divide the distance between C and F into three equal

parts, add yi of this amount, as from line 3 to 4 and 1.

F to 5 is the normal yi inch suppression. So from line

3 to 5 is yi inch; but as % inch has been added to

width of back, as from 3 to 1, there will be only yl

inch suppression between the back and sidebody point,

as from 1 to 2.

The shoulder point I is moved back yi inch from Dto G, and the same amount is taken out of the forepart

from K to L.

T to U and V to W is the suppression in a normal

coat. Fill in from U to 7, which is yi the amount the

blade has receded from B to E. Y to Z is yi inch. Vto 8 is yi inch. W to 9 is yi inch.

Shoulder point O will in nearly all cases remain in

the same place.

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. 1 1

1

PLATE L1V.

I 12 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

ONE SHOULDER LOWER THAN THE OTHER.(explanation of PLATE LV.

)

THE SACK COAT.

In cutting coats for men whose shoulders are not of scye will remain the same, as suggested above, so there

the same height, it is necessary to measure the two sides.

If one side is found to measure, say, i inch more depth

of scye and i inch more length of strap than the other

side, the best and easiest method of procedure is to

draft the pattern by the shortest measure. We will then

have a pattern as indicated by the checked portion on

will be no change made from G to N, L to K and I to

H. But the back should be raised i inch from A to i

and from B to 2, and shaped as represented by the

dotted line. Slide the left back up and cut off the bot-

tom of the right back whatever has been added at the

top. Raise the forepart 1 inch from D to 3, and from

the accompanying diagram, Plate Iv. It does not M to 4, and shape the top of the shoulder as per dotted

matter whether the cutter produces this pattern from

shoulder measures, short measures, or any other method.

It does not require any special system or method to cut

a coat for a man of uneven shoulders; all that is needed

is a little common sense and observation in taking and

applying the measures. Because a man's shoulders are

not of the same height it does not necessarily follow that

his arms are not the same size. Invariably they are the

same size around, only one shoulder is set one inch

lower down than the other.

If a man's right shoulder is 1 inch lower than the

left, we may cut a pattern to fit the left side and make a

copy of it for the right side pattern. The size of the

line from 3 to E and gorge from M to 4.

Next slide the left forepart up so that point D will

lay on point 3, and mark off the neck gorge and the

front and bottom of the coat as per dotted line. In

sliding the forepart up it will be found that we get a little

more spring to the skirt, as shown by the dotted line

from P through Q. Now lay the right back, and fore-

part oh the top of the left, and note the apparent

change in the two armscyes, although none has been

made directly.

It should be remembered that while the minor dorsal

length from A to G has changed, the major dorsal length

from G to N remains the same in both patterns.

STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM. "3

PLATE LV.

jKa

ii 4 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

ONE SHOULDER LOWER THAN THE OTHER.(explanation of plate lvi.)

THE FROCK COAT.

We will suppose that the shaded portion of the pat- the forepart up as shown by dotted lines and shape the

tern in Plate lvi is just right for the high shoulder. neck gorge and the front. The shoulder should be

Lay the pattern on drafting paper and copy it off, then shaped so that it will come down gradually to point E,

draw up lines at points A, G, F, E, D and i and add i as shown by solid lines.

inch to top of back as from A to 9 and G to H. Slide When this is done slide the shaded or first pattern

up the back as shown by dotted lines. Then shape the up to the top of H and J, and shorten the low shoulder

top of the back from 9 to H, shape it gradually down side at the waist as shown by crossed lines at 5, 6 and 7.

to F, then add 1 inch from D to J and from 1 to 2, slide Add about y^ inch to sidebody and forepart at N.


PLATE LVI.

n6 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

ATTITUDE.(explanation of plate lvii.)

The attentive student of this work has now doubtless

learned much that is necessary of the science of pro-

portions as applied to garment cutting. In this case he

will be able to fully understand variations in cutting.

If he has not learned how to draft a proportionate coat,

he cannot know what the disproportionate form is.

If the cutter does not know what the proportionate

blade and waist is, not alone in a 36 size coat but in all

sizes, he will not be able to tell when he is cutting a

proportionate or a disproportionate garment. Cutting

by actual measurement will not tell him. Measures

are all good enough in their way, but there must be

something back of them. There must be a foundation

to build on, and that foundation is the proportions of

the human form.

By the science of true proportions the cutter has

every point on the draft located. Then by actual

measurements he can determine the disproportions, and

the difference between the proportionate and dispro-

portionate points, whatever the measures call for, will

tell the cutter how much out of proportion his client is.

If there is any doubt in the cutter's mind that his

client is not as much out of proportion as the meas-

ures indicate, then a compromise between the propor-

tions and the actual measures will produce satisfactory

results.

Disproportions in the human form are caused by

many things, abnormal formation of the bone structure,

disease, overdevelopment in flesh and muscle here,

underdevelopment there,—examples of which will be

found in the following pages. The cutter should profit

by experience, observe closely, pay strict attention to

the peculiarities of the men for whom he cuts garments,

and their imperfections will soon become a means of

pleasure and profit to him rather than the bugaboo

they are to many cutters.

The cutter should closely observe the attitude of

his customer if he wishes the garments he cuts to be

properly balanced. Attitude is an important matter.

The unobserving cutter would be apt to think, for in-

stance, that a man measuring 37 breast, 34 waist and

39 seat has a large seat. This is not necessarily the

case, however; such a measurement only indicates that

he is large around the hips. Whether he has a large or

a flat seat largely depends upon his attitude. In other

words, it would depend upon the extra size being in

the back or in the sides and front. If the man stands

in an erect attitude his extra size is in the back, but if

he stoops his seat is flat and the extra size is in the

sides and front. Then the problem arises how to apply

the seat measure when both the large and flat seated

man measure the same.

The cutter must note the attitude of his client, and

if the hips are forward take the regular pattern as

drafted for the large seated form, cut it across about 2

inches below the breast, and move the lower parts for-

ward as in Diagram 1. Move the backpart forward yto y% inch and the lower part of the forepart forward

y2 to y inch, and in extreme cases as much as i)|

inches. Then when the front and sides are reshaped

we will have a correct pattern for a man with a flat

seat, hips full at sides and well toward the front. If

the attitude of the customer is noted there will be no

trouble in making the proper changes.

If the customer stands in a very erect attitude, small

in front and very large seat, the reverse process should

be employed, as in Diagram 2. In making these

changes be careful not to move the back more than 3/&

inch in the most extreme case, and when only a slight

change is needed move only the foreparts.

No measurements of any kind will give these changes.

LONG AND SHORT NECK.

Another matter which often gives cutters muchtrouble is the long and short neck, and how to get a

coat collar to fit on them. In the case of a long neck

the cutter should not try to begin measuring from the

top of the neck. Take all measurements from the

socket bone. Measure the collar stand from the socket

bone up to where the top of the coat collar should

come. If this measure should be 2j4 inches, deduct

from this the regular high collar stand, i% inches, and

add the remainder, i}£ inches, to the neck gorge. (See

Diagram 1.) Add the same amount to the size of the

lapel, or it will be too small.

On the other hand, with a very short-necked manwhose collar stand would be only from the socket bone

up y2 inch or less, add to the collar stand ^ to ^inch and cut off the same amount of the neck gorge.

See Diagram 2.


PLATE LV1I.

DIAGRAM 1.

DIAGRAM 2.

u8 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE COAT AND VEST SYSTEM.

HOW TO CUT LOOSE-FITTING COATS.

(explanation of PLATE LV1II.

)

Among the changes of style which make trouble for

the cutter that from close-fitting to loose-fitting coats

is not the smallest. Yet it is the easiest matter in the

world, as the student will see by a glance at the accom-

panying diagrams.

Diagram A represents a close-fitting overcoat pattern.

Draw a straight line in front of the armscye, about y2inch forward. Split the pattern from W to G and R,

pull the pattern apart and add % of whatever extra size

you want to increase the coat. Then split the back

from V to S and T, as shown in the diagram, and insert

Y± the extra amount wanted there. It is simply a mat-

ter of adding goods where it is wanted.

In drafting a coat, whether close or loose-fitting,

there should be no change of points lengthwise in the

draft. That is, if A to B is 3^ inches lengthwise in a

close fitting garment, it should be the same in a loose-

fitting one. If B to C in a close-fitting garment is 6

inches, a loose fitting coat cut from the same measures

must be the same. Add to width of back say % inch,

or whatever extra fullness is wanted. Extend line B,

and keep point M on the same line. If the top or back

of a coat, as from A to N, is 2^ inches for a close fit,

it should be the same for a loose fit. If the armscye

from J to K is 5 inches in a close-fitting coat, it should

measure the same for a loose-fitting coat. If the dis-

tance from H to L is 6 inches in a close-fitting coat, it

must be the same in a loose-fitting coat. The coat must

fit snug around the neck and armscye, so whatever ex-

tra goods is inserted in the back should be added to the

blade measure and go forward that much more, to the

front of the scye. Then go forward y? breast plus the

extra amount of size inserted. Keep the shoulder point

always in the same position. That is, if the shoulder

point F in a close-fitting coat is 2/z breast forward from

point N on back, in a loose-fitting coat it will be for-

ward 2/i breast (plus the extra amount y? inch added

for size).

This will keep the fullness just where it is wanted,

in front and back of the scye. If extra size is wanted

in front add a trifle to the front edge.

In this way a coat may be cut which is, say, two

sizes too large for the customer, which yet fits nicely

around the neck and shoulders, and has graceful folds

running up and down the back and front.

Diagram B represents a frock coat drafted on pre-

cisely the same principles as the sack. Care must be

taken in making the allowance, so as to add the proper

allowance in the right place. In a frock coat I usually

add % inch to width of back and y£ inch to front part

between the scye and the side of the neck, and also y%.

inch to the front edge of the coal.

In an under sack coat I add the same amount as for

a frock coat. Some skill is required in making this

change in a box sack overcoat. In this garment the

cutter can add to width of back J^ to %' inch, and to

front part between front of armscye and side of neck a

like amount, but not more than yi inch to the front

edge, unless it is desired to have the buttons set back

farther than usual. Having increased the width of the

front and back of the coat by adding extra size to the

garment, the width of the shoulder has been increased

also, and it becomes necessary to reduce the top of the

shoulder fully yi the amount of increase, as shown by

dotted lines from J, P to P, K.

Care must be taken to make these additions in the

proper place. Adding extra goods to the front edge of

the coat will not produce fullness further back, for the

addition will remain in front. A stylish full overcoat

should not be extra wide across the shoulders and hug

the hips closely, but should start gradually to increase

in size from the shoulders down. The coat should

hang so that the legs of the wearer will be in the middle

of the coat. The back of the coat should not hug the

legs and the front corners flaring. Add the goods in

the proper place and the coat will hang correctly.


PLATE LVIII.

1

'

"

:" '

,; 4t JjL— !

l^k

m§r^>


HOW TO CUT LOOSE-FITTING COATS.

(explanation of plate lix.)

A regular draft of an overcoat will produce a med-

ium large and easy garment, but without being full

enough or having bell enough for high-class trade.

This may be obtained by cutting the coat as shown in

Plate xxv, pages 58-59. It may also be produced in

the manner herewith illustrated, which explains more

fully the loose-fitting effect.

When cutting the cloth mark off the back as from

A, Y, X, S and Q to C. Then place your finger at A,

hold the pattern there and swing it forward as from CB 1 inch, and finish marking out the back.

Mark off the front of the forepart from A, W, V and

R to D. Place the pivot at A and swing the forepart

back as from D to E, 2 inches. Then finish marking

out the forepart.

By this method we have retained the regular size of

the coat around the neck and armscye, and have in-

serted the extra fullness in the front and back as at Fand G.

If an extra large coat is wanted insert as much as

2 inches in the back from B to C, and 4 inches in the

forepart from D to E. By swinging the back out at

the bottom it gets too wide, so it is necessary to take

off from O to P half of the amount added or inserted

from B to C, and add the same amount to the fore-

part, as per dotted lines.


PLATE LIX.

THE SUPERLATIVEWORKS ON CUTTINGBY

CHAS. J. STONE ^' 'A heart to conceive, a head to contrive, and a hand to execute.

"

The art of cutting is too highly developed, it is too intricate, demands too exact a knowledge

of the cutter to be mastered without deep study and long practice. In fact, a library has be-

come indispensable to the modern cutter ; no matter how experienced a cutter may be, no

matter how skillful or how learned in his art, he may attain a deeper knowledge and wider

comprehension of cutting by the proper study of the best books.

This is a want supplied by The Superlative Works on Cutting as by none others. Thereason for this is that their author brings to his work a natural genius supplemented by long

and varied experience, indefatigable study and thorough investigation. The fact that cutters

realize the truth of this matter is attested by the large and constantly increasing sales of MrStone's works. The complete list consists of :

Stone's New Superlative Coat and Vest System $10.00

Stone's New Short Measure Coat and Vest System 10.00

Stone's Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments.. 10.00

Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System 5.00

Stone's New Superlative Trousers System, in preparation 7-00

Stone's Superlative Trousers System 5.00

Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer System 3.00

Stone's Superlative Corset Grades, 14 sizes 3.00

SPECIAL OFFER.—We will sell any two of our $10.00 works for $15.00 ; or the New Su-

perlative or New Short Measure System, together with our New Superlative Trousers

System for $15.00.

Any of these works will be sent prepaid by return mail on receipt of price. No book will

be sent C. O. D. Send P. O. or Express Money Order or Chicago Exchange.

Address

CHAS. J. STONE CO.

1 94 and 1 96 La Salle Street CHIGAGO, ILL.

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO .

<—--*>

CUTTING SCHOOL194=196 La Salle St., CHICAGO

TKRMS FOR INSTRUCTIONTO BE PAID IN ADVANCE

For a complete course of Instruction (to Practical Tailors) in Gentlemen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00

Goat System, alone , 50 00

Vest System, aloDe 25 00

Trouser System, alone 25 00

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gai ters , 50 00

Grading 50 00

Boys and Children ... 100 00

Shirts ". 15 00

Drawers 15 00

LADIES' CUTTiNUFor complete course of Ladies' Garments... , $100 00

Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments 50 00

Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts 25 00

PRACTICAL CUTTERSDesiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coats, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00

Price to Cutters for Coat System, alone 30 00" " Trouser System, alone 15 00

" Vest System, alone 15 00" " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 00

PRACTICAL CUTTERSFor special knd private instruction in measuring, drafting, or explaining points in Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading,

Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day $5 00 to $25 00

^22S~Thls is a Special Feature.

Address, CHAS. J. STONE, Private Office,

The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHICAGO, ILL.

Stone's Reliable Block PatternsThese Patterns are strictly up-to-date in styie and outline. They are tested Patterns which we have beer> using

for years, and which are used by the best Tailors all over the Country.

PATTERNS EOR MEN'S GARMENTS.S. B. Frock Coat, any size, each,

S. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, .

D. B. Sack Coat, any size, each,

D. B. Frock Coat, any size, each,

Dress Coats, any size, each, .

S. B. Over Coat, any size, each, .

D. B. Over Coat, any size, each,

Raglan Over Coat, any size, each,

Inverness Over Coat, any size, eachPaletots and Paddocks, any size, each,

S. B. Vests, any size, each,

Dress Vest, any size, each,

D. B. Vest, any size, each,Trousers, any size, each,

Riding Breeches,Riding Leggins,Bicycle Pants, Plain, .

Bicycle Pants, with Cuffs,

$1.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,

1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,

1.25 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,




2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,2.00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,

.75 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,1. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,i. 00 Full Set, in Sizes 34 to 43,

.75 Full Set, in Sizes 30 to 42, Waist,1.25 Clerical Coats, each, .

.75 Knight Templar Coats, each,

.75 Hoods, each, .

1. 00

$10.0010.0010.0012.0012. CO13.0013.0016. CO16.0016.007.008.008.00

9.001-251.25.50

Capes, each,

Cutters' Combination Set of Patterns, Complete Outfit for $40.00. PHces of Patterns for Boys and Children

Furnished en Appiicalicr.

For Special Patterns the following measures are necessary for men's garments:The breast measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and unless it is especially

stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used.

The measures necessary for all undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of sleeve, breast, waist,

hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the waist seam is located). Thismeasure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Give height of ^customer and description, concise as possible,

of his figure.

For Vest and Trousers the usual measures.

PATTERNS POR LADIES' GARMENTS.SIZE EACH FULL SET SIZE EACH FULL SET

Basque, Bust 28-4O $1.00 $I0.O0 Divided Riding Skirt, . . Waist 20-32 $1.50 $IO.OOJackets, any style,

" 28-4O I. 00 10.00 Bicycle Skirts, '

'

20-32 • 75 7.50D. B. Reefer, 28-4O I .00 10.00 Riding Breeches, 20-32 75 7.50Cutaway Coats, " 28-4O I. 00 10.00 Leggins, . 25 2.50D. B. Frock, " 28-4O 1.25 12.00 Caps, . 6-7 5° - 3-00D. B. Ulster, 1 ' 28-4O I.25 12.00 Golf Capes, . Bust, 28-40 • 75 7.50Bicycle Coats

,28-4O I. 00 10.00 Double Capes, " 28-40 1. 00 10.00

D. B. Vest, " 28-4O 50 5.00 Three-Decker Capes, .

" 28-40 1. 00 10.00Costume Skirt, . Waist, 20-32 75 7-5° Single Sleeves, 28-40 50 5.00Riding Skirt, " 20-32 i-5° 10.00

All these Patterns Cut to Order, Single or in Sets, at Regular Prices.

Measures necessary for ladies' garments:Length of waist and full length of garment; the underarm length from armscye to small of waist; the front

length from center of back at neck to largest part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of sleeve should

be taken with a square under the arm to wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. Take bust meas-ure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of neck must begiven. For skirts, take front, side and back lengths and waist, also hip measure. In ordering skirt patterns,

state what width goods is to be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly.

All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by cash remittance of at least 50% of the amount ordered

to receive attention. All orders executed promptly. Address

The Chas. J. Stone Co.,1 94- i 96 La Salle St., Chicago.

Tailors' Squares ^ MeasuresWe carry a Complete Line of Squares, Measures, Etc , the Best in the Market, and sell them

at most reasonable rates.

PATENT FOLDING SQUARE(The Illustration shows the Square Open and Closed.)

SQUARESBoxwood, 16x24,

" 14x24,

" 12x24,

Maplewood, 14x24,

" 12x24, .

Patent Folding, Boxwood,

Stone's Measuring Squares, brass attachment,

Boxwood, 6x10 (folding), . .

Maplewood, 6x10 (not folding),

Sliding Arm (Glencross),

Trousers,

(Add 25 Cents on all Squares and

$1 75

I 5°

I 25

I 10

I 00

2 75

, 2 5°

I 5°

75

I 75

80

STICKS, ETC.5-4 Sticks, beveled and jointed, $1 5°

5-4 Sticks, beveled edge, 70

Yard Sticks, beveled edge, 45" " straight edge (thin cap), . 3°" " " " (thick cap), 25

24-inch Sticks, " " (bench rule), 25

Curved Sticks, 35

Tape Measures, finest quality, each, 20

" " good " " 15

Patent Crotch Measures, 25

Centimeter Measures, 25

Sticks for Packing and Shipping.)

In ordering Squares, be sure to state whether you want the division of 3rds or 4ths on

the long arm. Send in your orders with the money, and any article ordered will be sent by

return express. No goods sent C. O. D. unless one-half of the price accompanies the order.

To insure safe delivery of remittance send Post Office, Money or Express Order.

Address all orders to

The Chas. J. Stone Co.194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO

Cutters' andTailors' ShearsWe sell the well known Heinisch Shears, Trimmers, Etc , at reasonable prices. None better

can be obtained, the best cannot be bought cheaper.

Nickel-plated Shears, extra, . $2 00

Left-handed Shears, extra, $1 00 to 2 00

Nickel-plated Trimmers, extra, . 1 50

Left-handed Trimmers, extra, . 50

HEINISCH'S CELEBRATED SHEARSNo.

3 Full length, 12 inches,;apanned handles, #3 25

3^ Full length, 121^ inches, apanned handles, 3 5°

4 Full length, 12^4 inches,;apanned handles, 4 25

4^ Full length, 13 inches, apanned handles, 4 5°

6 Full length, 13^ inches, apanned handles, 6 5°

7 Full length, 14 inches, apanned handles, 7 5°

8 Full length, 14^ inches, apanned handles, 8 25

9 Full length, 14^ inches, apanned handles, 9 00

TO Full length, 153^ inches, apanned handles, 10 00

HEINISCH'S BENT TRIMMERSFull length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

Full length,

7 inches,

7j^ inches,

8 inches,

8*4 inches,

9 inches,

inches,

inches,

inches,

inches,

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

apanned

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

handles,

$0 60

65

70

80

90

1 10

1 2 S

1 5°

1 7S

HEINISCH'S TAILORS' POINTS

Full length, 5 inches, japanned handles,

Full length, 5^ inches, japanned handles,

Full length, 6 inches, japanned handles,

50 40BAUER'S

PATENT REVOLVING BUTTONHOLE CUTTER5° CUTS ANY SIZE BUTTONHOLE60 Price, per pair, net, $1 75

All orders will be promptly attended to. To insure safe delivery, send P. O. , Money or

Express Order. Address,

The Chas. J. Stone Co.194=196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO

T

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stone's new superlative coat and vest system, based upon

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