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Chapter 8Stocks and Sauces

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 1Stocks and SaucesFrench word for stock is fond, meaning foundation or base.This foundation indicates the importance of stocks.The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culinary skills.

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 2StocksStock: A clear, thin unthickened liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from:Meat, poultry, or fishMeat, poultry, or fish bonesVegetables Seasonings

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 3StocksThe objective in preparing stocks is to:Select the proper ingredients.Extract the flavors we want.Combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure.

IngredientsCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 4StocksBones are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course).Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones.Vegetable stocks draw their flavor entirely from vegetables.INGREDIENTS (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 5StocksBones The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock:Chicken stock: made from chicken bones.White stock: made from beef or veal bones.Fish stock: made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting.

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 6StocksBones (contd) Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form gelatin. This gives body to a stock.A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled.Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animalsBones with lots of cartilage, used in stock-making:Knuckle bonesNeck bonesShank bones

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 7StocksMeatRarely used in stock-making because of its cost.Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken stock.Broth is a flavorable liquid produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry. INGREDIENTS (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 8StocksMirepoixMirepoix : A combination of onions, carrots, and celery:White mirepoix: parsnips are sometimes substituted for carrots.Used when it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible.Usually for white beef or veal stock and fish stock.Celery root may be substituted for celery.

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 9StocksAcid ProductsAcids help dissolve connective tissues.Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to brown stocks.Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy.Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity.INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 10StocksSeasonings and SpicesSalt is usually not added as stocks are reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients.Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet dpices (French for spice bag). The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time.

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 11StocksSeasonings and Spices (contd) Bouquet garni : an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string.Contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems.

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 12StocksSeasonings and Spices (contd) The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are commonly used for stocks:ThymeParsley stemsBay leaves Cloves, wholePeppercorns Garlic (optional)

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 13StocksSeasonings and Spices (contd) Onions for FlavoringOignon piqu : A whole, peeled onion onto which a bay leaf is attached by a whole clove.Oignon brl : French for burnt onion. At times, it is added to brown stock to give color as well as flavor.

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 14StocksIngredient ProportionsCooks use ratios to help them remember the basic proportions, as follows:Bones: 80 percentMirepoix: 10 percentWater: 100 percent

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 15StocksIngredients for Vegetable StocksThe basic ingredients for vegetable stocks are:VegetablesHerbs and spices WaterWine (sometimes)

INGREDIENTS (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 16StocksBlanching BonesThe purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the impurities that cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor stocks.ProceduresCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 17ProcedurePREPARING WHITE STOCK

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 18ProcedurePREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 19ProcedurePREPARING BROWN STOCK

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 20ProcedurePREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 21ProcedurePREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 22ProcedurePREPARING FISH STOCK

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 23ProcedurePREPARING FISH STOCK (CONT)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 24StocksRemouillage and Other Stock-Related ProceduresRemouillage : A stock made from bones that were already used once to make stock.The literal meaning of the French term is rewetting.Dashi: Basic Japanese stock.Quickly and easily made from only three ingredients:WaterShaved, dried bonito, called katsuobushi Dried seaweed or kelp, called kombuPROCEDURES (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. StocksReduction: Stocks that are concentrated by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water. Glaze or glace: A stock reduced until it coats the back of a spoon.Meat glaze, or glace de viande Chicken glaze, or glace de volaille Fish glaze, or glace de poisson

REDUCTIONS AND GLAZESCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. StocksJudging QualityBases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts.Many bases are made primarily from salt. Read the list of ingredients.Using BasesUsing bases requires taste and judgment.Always taste and evaluate as you cook.There is no substitute for a well-made stock.

CONVENIENCE BASESCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SaucesSauce: A flavorful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavor, and enhance other foods.A sauce adds the following qualities to foods:MoistnessFlavorRichnessAppearance (color and shine)Interest and appetite appealUnderstanding Sauces

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 28SaucesThe Structure of SaucesThe major sauces are made of three kinds of ingredients:A liquid, the body of the sauceA thickening agentAdditional seasoning and flavoring ingredientsUNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 29SaucesThe Structure of Sauces (contd)LiquidLeading sauces or mother saucesWhite stock (chicken, veal, or fish): for velout saucesBrown stock: for brown sauce or espagnoleMilk: for bchamelTomato plus stock: for tomato sauceClarified butter: for hollandaise

UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 30Stocks and SaucesThickenersRoux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and flour.Beurre mani : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour worked together to form a smooth paste.Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid.

RouxLiaisonUNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 31Stocks and SaucesReduction concentrates flavor, adjusts textures, and adds new flavors.Straining removes lumps.Deglazing is swirling liquid in pan to dissolve cooked particles.Heavy cream used to give flavor and richness to sauce.Monter au beurre is to finish with butter.Add a few pieces of softened butter to the hot sauce.Swirl them in until melted. The sauce should then be served immediately.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 32SaucesLeading SaucesLiquid + Thickening agent = Leading sauceLeading sauce + Additional flavorings = Small sauceStandards of quality for sauces:Consistency and bodyFlavorAppearance

Sauce FamiliesCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 33SaucesBchamel:Small sauces:Cream SauceMornay SauceCheddar Cheese SauceMustard SauceSoubise SauceNantua Sauce

PRODUCTION

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 34SaucesVelout:Suprme sauce Allemande sauceWhite Wine sauce Small Sauces:Poulette, Aurora, Hungarian, Curry, Mushroom, Albufera/Ivory, Bercy, Herb, Normandy, Anchovy, Shrimp, Venetian, Horseradish

PRODUCTION (CONTD)

Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 35SaucesEspagnole or Brown SauceHearty, flavorful sauceFond li or jus li Demi-glace Small Sauces:PRODUCTION (CONTD)BordelaiseMarchand de VinRobertCharcutireChasseurDiable (Deviled)MadeiraPrigueuxPovradePort WineItalian SauceMushroom BercyPiquantLyonnaiseBigaradeCopyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 36SAUCESTomato SauceSmall Sauces:Portugaise (Portuguese)SpanishCreole Butter SaucesMelted butter Clarified butterBeurre noisette Beurre noir

Meunire butterCompound butterBeurre blanc

PRODUCTION (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 37SAUCESHollandaise and Barnaise Hollandaise Sauce Barnaise Sauce Small Sauces:MaltaiseMousselineFoyotChoron

PRODUCTION (CONTD)Copyright 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. 38