Model Shipways Kit No. 2021

Technical Characteristics:Scale: 1/8" = 1' 0" (1:96)Length: 9"Height: 3-1/2"Hull width: 2-1/4"

Steam Towboat

TAURUS

Towboats, like the TAURUS, were afamiliar sight in every American har-bor and navigable tidal flat at the turnof the century. Graceful, yet function-al, they pulled large liners andpushed heavy barges with ease. Dur-

ing the 1930's, steam engines lostground to Diesel propulsion, andby the 1960's the steam units wereall but gone. A few steam tugs sur-vive today as museum relics.

Steam Towboat

TAURUS

3

Instruction Manual

The Steam Towboat

TaurusBy Erik A. R. Ronnberg Jr., 1978

Instruction Manual Update By Ben Lankford, 1995

The Model Shipways kit is based on the tugs Betsy Ross of Philadelphia, 1903, andthe Sommers N. Smith of Boston,1887. Photos No. 2847 and 2156A, respectively, are inthe collection of the Steamship Historical Society, now in the library of the Universityof Baltimore.

During the original development of the kit, Mr. Ronnberg was assisted by Mr. WillieDunne, Mr. Alan Frazer, and the librarians at the Historical Society. Their assistance isgreatly appreciated.

This new instruction manual expands on the original instructions prepared by Mr.Ronnberg. The manual takes you through a step-by-step procedure for building a fineship model. Beginners and advanced modelers alike should find this a very reward-ing project.

Copyright 1995Model Shipways, Inc.

Sold and distributed by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc.Hollywood, FL 33020

www.modelexpo-online.com

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CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS

Brief History CoverIntroduction/Credits Pg 3Before You Begin Pg 5What You'll Need to Start Construction Pg 6How to Work With the Plans & Parts Pg 6Painting & Staining the Model Pg 7

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull Pg 8

1. Shaping the Outside of the Hull Pg 82. Carving the Bulwarks and Deck Pg 8

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Pg 9

1. Installing the Stem Pg 92. Installing the Rubbing Strakes Pg 93. Planking the Deck Pg 94. Installing the Bulwark Stanchions and Rails Pg 9

Stage C: Mounting the Hull Pg 10

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details Pg 10

1. Stern Grating Pg 102. Hawse Pipe Lips Pg 103. Bow Fender Pg 104. Bitts and Bow Post Pg 105. Deck Plates Pg 106. Main Cabin Pg 107. Pilot House Pg 118. Smoke Stack, Whistle and Steam Vent Pipe Pg 119. Boat and Davits Pg 1110. Mast and Towing Lanterns Pg 1111. Ladders Pg 1112. Stowage Chests Pg 1113. Rail Stanchions Pg 1214. Running Lights and Eagle Pg 1215. Name Boards and Lettering Pg 1216. Side Fenders Pg 12

Bibliography Pg 13

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN

The model is a waterline type ( no hull

below the waterline ). At 1/8" scale, it

makes a fine shelf model mounted on a

"sea" baseboard. It can also be used ef-

fectively in an HO gauge model railroad

setting. Although HO is 1/87 scale, 1/8"

( or 1/96) is close enough for the HO

layout. What you will have is slightly

smaller boat.

This kit contains a solid hull which has

been machined carved from select,

medium hard, fine grained basswood.

This style hull provides a quick and easy

lesson in the basic shapes and propor-

tions of hull design and helps to develop

woodworking skills. The exterior of the

TAURUS hull has been carved close to

the intended shape, so a simple sanding

is all that is required. Some carving is re-

quired for the bulwarks. Shaping and

finishing the hull to its final shape are

discussed in the instructions.

If you are a beginner, take your time. This

model is fairly simple to build but still re-

quires some time and concentration.

Make sure you complete one stage before

moving to the next. When things go

awry, consider doing it over. Completing

this model will prepare you for a more

complicated solid hull model such as the

Fishing Schooner ELSIE or the Colonial

Schooner SULTANA. Good luck!

Note about Glues: White or Carpenter'syellow wood glue will suffice for mostof the model. Five-minute epoxy pro-vides extra strength for gluing fittings.Cyanoacrylate (Super) glue such as Jet,can be used for quick adhesion. The bestcyanoacrylate glue for most applicationsis a medium viscosity gap-filling type.The watery-thin type is recommendedto fill a narrow crack by capillary action.For scribed decking sheets, it is best touse a contact cement or model airplanetype cement. White glue tends to warpthin sheet wood and makes it difficult toinstall.

The following tools and supplies are rec-ommended for the construction process.Modelers who have built before mayhave their own favorites.

A. Knives & Saws1. Hobby knife with No. 11 blades2. Coping saw (or jeweler's saw

frame) and fine blades

B. FilesSet of needle files

C. CarvingToolsSmall chisel and gouge for shaping the bulwarks

D. Sharpening StoneNecessary to keep the tools razor sharp

E. Clamps1. Several wooden clothespins3. Rubber bands

F. Wire Cutters & Tin SnipsFor cutting fine wire & chain; for cutting brass sheet

G. Boring Tools1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #802. A pin vise3. Larger bits: 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8"

H. Miscellaneous1. Tack hammer2. Tweezers (a few)3. Miniature pliers

a. small round for forming rings and eyes

b. flat nose (with serrated jaws)4. 1/2" or 3/4" masking tape

I. SandpaperFine and medium grit garnet or aluminum oxide sandpaper (#100 to #220 grit)

J. Finishing:Paint brushes

a. fine point for detailsb. 1/4 flat square for hull

K. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in the Painting & Staining section and throughout instructions.)1. Paints2. Primer3. Stains/varnish 4. White or Carpenter's (yellow)

wood glue5. Five minute epoxy6. Super glue 7. Model airplane type glue

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTIONHOW TO WORK WITHPLANS AND PARTS

Before starting model construction, exam-ine the kit and study the plan carefully. Fa-miliarizing yourself with the kit will servetwo purposes. First, it will let you deter-mine that all parts have been supplied aslisted. And second, you'll be surprised atjust how quickly handling the parts allowsyou to better understand the kit require-ments. Try to visualize how every part willlook on the completed model. Also, deter-mine ahead of time what must be donefirst. The instructions will help you in thisregard, but a thorough knowledge of theplan at the outset is essential.

It is suggested that all small fittings andhardware be sorted into labeled boxes orcompartments to avoid loss during thebuilding process.

1. The PlanOne Plan Sheet is provided. However,many sketches throughout this manualfurther illustrate the various stages ofconstruction.

The TAURUS kit is manufactured to ascale of 1/8" = 1'0". The plan is drawn tothe exact scale that the model is to be built.Dimensions can be lifted directly off theplan by using a set of draftsman dividersor by using a "tick" strip, which is simply apiece of paper used to "pick up" the di-mensions (a roll of calculator tape worksvery well). Lay your paper strip over theplan and mark the lengths of items care-fully with a sharp pencil. Then use thestrip to transfer the marks to the wood oritem to be made to scale.

2. Kit LumberYour kit may contain limewood, a Euro-pean wood, as a substitute for the bass-wood. Both woods are similar in worka-bility and grain.

3. Cast Metal FittingsThe kit is supplied with Britannia metalcastings. The Britannia metal is a greatimprovement over the white metal thatwas used in some older kits. Unlikewhite metal and pewter, Britannia doesnot contain lead, so there are no possiblecorrosion problems. The fittings, howev-er, will require final finishing before theyare suitable for installing on the model.

Before painting the cast metal fittings,clean them up by removing all the moldjoint flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobbyblade to cut the flash, then file or sand withfine sandpaper. It is also suggested thatyou clean the fittings thoroughly withwarm soapy water before applying primer.Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly andallowed to dry before painting.

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It may seem strange to begin an instruc-tion manual with directions on applyingthe finishes to the model. Not so! Muchtime and effort can be saved, and a moreprofessional result can be obtained, ifthe finishing process is carried out dur-ing construction. Paint the various smallparts before they are installed on themodel.

The painting sequence must be a wellthought out procedure, otherwise youmay have difficulty as you proceed withassembly. For example, it is easier topaint a cabin or hatch coaming before itis glued to the deck. Put the parts asideuntil they are ready to be installed.Proper timing in application of finishesand the use of masking tape to definepainted edges should eliminate unsight-ly glue marks and splotchy stained sur-faces. In the end, following these generalsuggestions will be to your advantage.

1. PreliminariesBefore painting, rub down all externalsurfaces with 220 grit dry sandpaperand wipe off all dust thoroughly. Giveall unprimed surfaces two coats ofprimer. A very light sanding is recom-mended after the last coat of primer, butdon't sand down to bare wood. Withclean hands, a soft brush, and a clean,soft rag or tack rag, gently dust andwipe off the hull.

Choosing paint: For hand brushing, usea flat finish paint. Glossy finishes are notdesirable. A satin finish will give themost satisfactory results, but the under-coat (primer) paint should be dead flat.Floquil marine color paints are ideal. Ifyou object to solvent based paints, Flo-quil's Polly-S is an excellent water-basedacrylic and brushes and covers well.Clear finishes are available for bothtypes of paint so you can get the gloss orflatness you desire.

Masking off surfaces: It can be verytricky to mask off the surfaces you don'twant to paint. Some brands of maskingtape are absolutely no good becausethey allow paint to bleed under them, sobe selective. The Scotch Brand remov-able magic tape is a good tape. The ad-hesive is low-tack, the same adhesiveused for their Post-It note paper. Agraphic design tape, such as the ChartPak brand, is also good but the adhesivegrips rather securily. If you use it, makesure your paint is thoroughly dry. It isavailable in widths as fine as 1/32" and1/64". Black plastic electrician's tape isalso acceptable.

A secret to good masking is to lightlypaint a clear finish along the tape first.

This seals the edges so the color paintswon't run under the tape. Floquil flatfinish or crystal cote will do the trick.

Spray Painting: Spraying techniqueswork best with fast drying lacquers. TheFloquil paints spray very well whenthinned about 25%, used in an airbrushsuch as the Testors and Badger units.You will also find many brands of paintavailable in aerosol cans which givegood results. Test them on a wood blockas previously described before usingthem on the model. The aerosol cans putout much more paint than an airbrush,so you must spray lightly and fast. Don'tlet the paint build too heavily, or youwill have a mess of runs.

Brush painting: Painting with fine, softbristle brushes is probably best for thebeginner. And many highly skilledmodelmakers prefer the brushed ontechnique because a brushed surface,with its fine imperfections, imparts amore life like appearance to the model.

Choosing Brushes: Brushes must be verysoft and of the highest quality. Artistgrade sable or synthetics are the best.They should be a littler wider for paint-ing the surface. A brush that's too nar-row will cause excessive streaking of thefinish.

Brushing Technique: When applyingpaint or stain with a brush, lay down onethin coat in a single stroke, then move thebrush over to coat the adjacent areas withsingle strokes. Never make repeat strokesover fresh paint or you will tear up thesurface of the first brush stroke. Waituntil the paint has dried to a hard finishbefore applying a second coat.

2. TAURUS Color SchemeColor schemes on tugs varied consider-ably. Here are some of the more com-mon ones.

Hull: Black, or dull or weathered black;Boston tugs often were white.

Cap rails: Always black.

Deck: Well maintained but not fancy;use a greyish-umber, or teak stain.

Cabin and pilot house sides: Red was afavorite; Boston owned tugs may have acherry or mahogany stained cabin tocontrast with white hull. The box photoshows a cabin with mahogany for halfthe cabin and natural or oak finish forthe upper half.

Cabin and pilot house top: Canvas cov-ered, paint light grey or buff.

Doors and windows: Bright varnishedoak.

PAINTING & STAINING THE MODELBulwarks inboard: Buff, grey or redoxide.

Stern grating: Dark brown holes andlighter brown top surface.

Quarter bitts: Black or red oxide

Stack, rail stanchions, and deck plates:Black

Running lights: Brown box; port light isred, starboard light is green.

Eagle on pilot house: Gold

Boat: White with tan or light grey cover.

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SHAPING THE PRE-CARVED HULL

1. Shaping the Outside of the Hull

The outside of the pre-carved hull canbe shaped very easily with a sandingblock. About all you need do is even upboth sides with a sanding block. Thestern has vertical sides down to a sharpedge, then tapers back to the waterline.Sand the bottom slope to obtain thesharp edge. Figure 1 illustrates a sectionat the bow, amidships, and at the stern.

Using the sanding block, smooth outthe top of the bulwarks so you have asmooth curve (hull profile) and main-tain a sharp edge along the bulwark.

Next, decide on how you want the stemto look. Figure 2 shows three variationsthat you can use. Using a sanding block,shape the bow to accept a stem piece.The "catboat" stem (Figure 2c) was verypopular among tugs designed with a lotof barge pushing in mind.

2. Carving the Bulwarks and Deck

The machine-carved hull has bulwarksapproximately 1/8" thick. They arethicker than required so they won'tbreak while inside the kit box. The in-board sides of the bulwarks need to becut down to a uniform thickness ofabout 1/32". However, this will be diffi-cult and leave the bulwarks very weak.Although a little thick, you can cutthem down to only 1/16". If you wantto simplify the bulwarks and omit thetimberheads, the bulwarks can be thick-er. If timberheads will be added, strivefor a thinner bulwark. The cap rail mustcover the bulwark plank plus the top ofeach timberhead. If both are too widethe cap rail will be wider than scale andlook very bulky. Figure 3 shows amethod for cutting the bulwark thick-ness down. Use a gouge to cut to thedepth, then smooth the surface with aflat chisel. A small sanding block willcomplete the task.

As you proceed around the stern, usethe grating casting provided in the kitand test fit it as you go so the gratingwill fit snugly against the bulwarks.

The deck will be covered with thescored deck sheet included in the kit,unless you desire to lay individualplanks as an option. In any case, youmust first take a chisel and square upthe corners at the bow and at the deck

STAGE A FIG. 1 – Hull Sections at the Bow, Amidships and Stern

FIG. 2 – Variations of the Stem

FIG. 3 – Cutting the Bulwark Thickness

FIG. 4 – Carving the Deck

FIG. 5 – Installing the Rubbing Strakes

Sharpedge

Softeredge

Keep bottomedge sharp

A B CCatboat stem

Mark width

GougeSmoothwithchisel

1/32" to1/16"

Square corners atstern grate

Cut outat bow

Cut fromsheet

Straightstrips Sand to shape

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COMPLETING THE BASIC HULL

1. Installing the StemPrecut the stem and glue it to the bow.The stem should have a very slighttaper to it. Make sure the grain of thewood is in line with the piece.

2. Installing the Rubbing Strakes

Using a 1/16" strip, pre-shape the rub-bing strakes. The straight sticks can be ap-plied from the stem back to about thefront of the deck grating (the lower strakefeathers out at the waterline). Mark thelocation of the rubbing strakes on the hullwith a pencil. For the stern you can cutthe strakes out of a 1/6" sheet. Make it alittle wider than necessary. After it is in-stalled, sand it down to match the othersection of strake (see Figure 5).

As an option for the stern, you couldsteam-bend or ammonia soak a strip tosoften it for bending around the stern.Also, you may want to try laminatingseveral thin strips to obtain the shape.

3. Planking the DeckFor this model, you can lay individualplanks as an option, or use the scoreddecking included in the kit. For thescored sheets, first make a paper tem-plate to fit snugly against the bulwarks.Place the template on the scored sheetand cut the sheet with a hobby knife.

Glue the deck sheets down with modelairplane type cement or contact cement.White or Carpenters wood glue tends towarp the wood. Make sure you havethe scored lines lined up with the cen-terline of the boat.

The waterway along the bulwarks weregenerally planks flush with the deck.For the model they can be faked byadding a 1/8" wide paper strip, glued

grating step aft. Square these areas andsand the deck smooth (see Figure 4).

At this stage, the hull is fully shaped. Goover the entire hull with sandpaper,using #220 grit for the final smoothing.Be careful not to round the upper edgesof the rail, the hull angle aft, and the bot-tom (waterline). These should be sharpcorners.

Before proceeding to the next stage, itwould be a good idea to drill a couple ofpilot holes in the bottom of the hull ifyou intend to have the boat mounted ona baseboard.

STAGE B

FIG. 6 – Planking the Deck

FIG. 7 – Installing the Rails

FIG. 8 – Installing the Rub Rail and Spray Rail

on top of the scored decking (see Figure6). If you prefer a wood waterway, youcan trim 1/8" off the edge of the scoreddecking and glue on a waterway piece.

After the waterway is in place, cut thescupper slots through the bulwarks (alsoshown in Figure 6). Use a small drill andneedle file to shape up the slots. Theplan also shows a larger hole aft which isa freeing port. This is optional. The verti-cal lines are bars, added in the hole toprevent loosing a tow line through them.

4. Installing the Bulwark Stanchions and Rails

If you are going to add them, the bul-wark stanchions should be about 1/32"square. Starting at the bow, space themabout 1/4" apart. At the scuppers, thestanchions should be at the end of theslot, not in way of the slot. Cut each bul-wark stanchion to length and glue inplace. Cutting and mounting the stan-chions is tedious work, so exercise greatcare in the installation.

Glue the main rail atop the bulwark andstanchions, making sure it extendsslightly beyond the bulwark outboardand stanchions inboard. The rail portionaround the stern can be made the sameway as discussed for the rubbing strakes(see Figure 7 ). Finally, add the rub railat the stern and spray rail forward (seeFigure 8 ).

Decking Waterway strip Scupper slot

Rough File to shape

Rubrail

Spray rail

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FIG. 9 – Installing the Bitts and Bow Post

FIG. 10 – Main Cabin Panel Construction

MOUNTING THE HULL If you are going to mount your model ona baseboard, as opposed to using it in amodel railroad layout, now would be agood time to do it to prevent details frombecoming damaged during handling.

The kit includes a wooden baseboard.For a boat sitting in the water you canadd some strips of wood along the edgeof the baseboard, projecting 1/8" or soabove. The model can be mounted withscrews into the pilot holes you drilled inthe hull. For water, you can use paint, orpaint the baseboard, then pour castingresin or acrylic gel over the paint. Thismakes a realistic looking sea bed. Thephoto on the kit box shows how it looks.

STAGE C

STAGE DADDING THE HULL DETAILSBefore beginning with the details, out-line all topside items on the deck bymarking their locations with a pencil.Take all measurements from the plansusing tick strips.

1. Stern GratingThe stern grating is a Britannia casting.Clean it up, prime it and paint it beforeinstallation. If you carved the bulwarksusing the casting as a pattern, it shouldfit nicely.

2. Hawse Pipe LipsDrill holes in the bow and glue the Bri-tannia hawse pipe lips over the hole.Shape the hole with a file so it blends inwith the hawse pipe lips.

3. Bow FenderThe bow fender is provided as a Britan-nia casting but should be enhanced byadding "rope whiskers"; for the modelglue on some short pieces of thread so itappears nice and fuzzy like the realfender.

4. Bitts and Bow PostThe bitts and bow castings could beadded later, but it is probably a goodidea to get these in place before addingthe cabin. Again, these are best paintedbefore being installed (see Figure 9).

5. Deck PlatesThe four deck plates on the deck, theround circles adjacent to the stack, arefor passing coal to the bunkers locatedon both sides of the boiler. These platesare iron set flush with the deck plank-ing. For the model, simple paper punch-ings from a 1/4" paper punch will servethe purpose, or you can cut out holes inthe scored decking and insert a piece ofwood cut to the correct diameter.

6. Main CabinThe cabin is provided machine-carved.However, check the shape. The cabinshould be about 1/16" smaller allaround than the plan. To the sides of thecabin, you will add covering sheets anddoor and window castings. Whenadded, the cabin should be the correctdimension.

With a pencil, lay out lines to locate allthe doors, windows, and a horizontalline for the side panelling. The panellingis to represent tongue and groovesheathing on the real craft. Cut the pan-elling from the scored sheet provided inthe kit. Arrange the panelling as shownon the plans and in Figure 10. Notice thepanels are horizontal below the scribedline, and vertical above. As an option,

you could glue individual strips ofwood to form each panel plank.

Glue each door and window casting inplace. Since the windows are open, paintthe cabin behind the windows black, orlight blue to simulate the glass. Do thisbefore installing the windows. Youcould also be daring and insert someplastic sheet in the window openings tocreate some reflection like real glass.Your choice.

Along the separation of the vertical andhorizontal panels, and at the deck, youneed to add a belt rail and coaming.Thin, stiff paper like bristol board isideal. Make the rail about 1/32" wide,and the coaming at the deck 1/16" wide.

Next, center the cabin and glue it to thedeck. At this point, it would be a goodidea to add the steering linkage whichconnects the steering gear in the pilothouse with the steering quadrant which isunder the stern grating ( see Figure 11).The linkage has a short chain on each end,with a connecting rod going through deckeyebolts. Although you can't see it, theforward chain is connected to a rope orlight chain which passes over rollers up tothe pilot house steering wheel drum.

Make another pattern for the cabin topand cut the top from sheet wood. Do notuse scored sheet. The top is canvas cov-ered so the plank seams do not show.For the edge of the cabin top, you canleave it as is, or glue a thin strip of paperor wood around the edge (see Figure12). Glue the top in place, being carefulto align it evenly. When it is set, markthe locations of the topside items in pen-

FIG. 11 – Adding the Steering Linkage

Mark with pencil

Belt rail

CoamingWindow Door

Horizontal panel

Vertical panel

Roller

EyeRod

Chain

11

cil, then drill holes for the rail stanchionsand the towing light mast.

7. Pilot HouseThe pilot house is also a machine-carvedstructure. It is cut out in way of the win-dows so you can look through the open-ing. You may need to trim the openingso the windows fit properly. Paint theinterior black so you can't see the wood.For the windows, leave open or addclear plastic sheet in each pane.The restof the pilot house is done exactly like themain cabin. Check for fit on the maincabin, and sand the bottom if necessaryto fit. Finally, glue the completed pilothouse on top of the main cabin, andmake a small step at the door (see Fig-ures 13 and 14 ).

8. Smoke Stack, Whistle, and Steam Vent Pipe

Smoke stack parts include a woodenstack dowel, Britannia casting base and"T" emblems, brass rings and chain guys,and Britannia whistle and vent pipe (seeFigure 15 ).

You may need to bore out the base a littleto receive the stack dowel. Fit the brassrings over the dowel as shown. Drill ahole for the "T" emblems, and holes forthe guy chain eyes at the mid ring. Inserta U-shaped staple of brass in the holes forattaching the chain. Install the whistle andvent pipe in the holes in the stack base.Prime and paint the entire unit.

Install the stack, making sure it is verti-cal and has the proper rake aft (see the

FIG. 12 – Adding the Cabin Top FIG. 13 – Beveling the Pilot House

FIG. 14 – Completing Assembly of the Pilot House

FIG. 15 – Vent Pipe FIG. 16 – Boat Covering

FIG. 17 – Lantern Halliardplan). File the bottom of the base if nec-essary. Attach the chains to the cabin topwith similar staples.

9. Boat and DavitsThe boats can be positioned as shown onthe plan or moved closer to the cabinedge.The boat can be either on the portor starboard side. If at the cabin edge,you could scratch build a small skylightfor the engine room. The kit box photoshows an old wooden ladder atop thecabin. Be inventive!

Make a cover for the boat out of finecloth or paper (see Figure 16). The boatcan be hung from the davits usingthread or a piece of brass wire.

10. Mast and Towing LanternsFit the mast through a hole in the cabintop, but first install a hanger from brasswire into the mast for the lantern hal-liard (see Figure 17). The halliard can bethread or brass wire. Notice on the kitbox photo, a small block was added at

the top for the halliard. It gives themodel that extra touch.

11. LaddersAdd the port and starboard ladder goingup to the cabin top. The top should becurved as a hand rail.

12. Stowage ChestsInstall the forward stowage chest for-ward of the main cabin, and the lifebelt

Shape to fit window

MarkFit

Window

Step

Cover

12

stowage chest aft of the smoke stack.Glue with epoxy to set them securely.

13. Rail StanchionsThe rail stanchions fit into the holes youdrilled on the cabin top. After gluing, feedthe brass railing wire through the stan-chions and touch with a little super glue.

14. Running Lights and EagleMake sure you have the lights paintedthe correct color. Remember Port (likewine) is red. The eagle is installed on thepilot house front.

15. Name Boards and LetteringYou could name this boat anything youlike. TAURUS is Model Shipways namefor a typical tug. The name can be handpainted, or you can use dry transfer let-tering from an art store.

16. Side FendersOn the real boats, fenders were madefrom old railroad ties or sawed-off logs.For the model, cut some twigs off yourfavorite bush and stain them to lookweathered. These make nice realisticfenders.Glue to the bulwarks and usethread for the securing lines.

After all is done, look over your prizeand touch up paint if necessary. Make afinal check with the plan to see that youhave included all parts. Add the waterto your baseboard if you have not al-ready done so.

Congratulations! Your model is now complete. Don'thesitate to call Model Expo whenyou are ready to begin your nextmodeling endeavor.

1. Brady, E. M., Tugs, Towboats, and Towing. Describes operation of moderntugs with many glances backward at steam units. Good stuff on towing gearand techniques.

2. Lang, Steven, On the Hawser. A tugboat album offering a varied photo-graphic overview of tugs through time and in most regions of America.

3. Campbell, G. F., The Neophyte Shipmodeler's Jackstay, Model Shipways, 1962.Describes modelwork of a general nature, drawing examples from manytypes of sailing ships. Contains some good hints on crafts techniques. Excel-lent for the beginner.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

13

TAURUS INSTRUCTIONSFOR LASER-CUT CABIN AND

PILOT HOUSEThe TAURUS kit has been modified to includelaser-cut lifts and cabin tops for the main cabinand pilot house. These laser-cut parts replacethe solid wood machine carved structures sup-plied in earlier kits.

These instructions apply to assembly of thelaser-cut parts. Once assembled, refer back tothe Instruction manual for addition of siding,windows, and doors.

MAIN CABINStep. 1 - Glue the 1/8" cabin lifts together.

Step. 2 - Shape the top and bottom of thecabin lifts to follow the deck sheer line. Thefront also needs to be sloped back a bit. Thiscan be done with a sanding block. See Figure1.

Step. 3 - Glue on the 1/32" cabin top. Thecabin top is slightly smaller than the plan toallow for adding the edge molding (see Instruc-tion Manual).

Step. 4 - Return to the Instruction Manual forinstructions on installing the windows, doors,and siding.

PILOT HOUSEStep. 1 - Glue up the three 1/8" lifts with curvedfront. On top of these glue on two of the 1/32"lifts supplied in the kit. Glue the three 1/8" rect-angular lifts on the aft side. Next, add two more1/32" lifts. You now have a pilot house with acut-out in way of the windows, so you can seethrough.

Step. 2 - Glue on the 1/32" thick pilot housetop. See Figure 2.

Step. 3 - Return to the Instruction Manual forinstructions on installing the windows, doors,and siding.

Cabin lifts1/8” thick 8 required

Pilot house lifts atwindows 1/32”thick 4 required

Pilot house top1/32” thick 1 required

Pilot houselifts 1/8” thick

3 required

1/8” thick 3 required

Cabin top1/32” thick 1 required

FIGURE 1

FIGURE 2

Shape profile

1/8”

1/32” top

1/8”

2@1/32”

2@1/32”

14

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MODELER'S LOGDate Time Notes

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BLUENOSEModel Shipways Kit No. MS2130

BENJAMIN LATHAMModel Shipways Kit No. MS2109

SULTANAModel Shipways Kit No. MS2016

OUR GUARANTEEIf less than delighted, return your purchase within 30 days in original condition.

BEDFORD WHALEBOATModel Shipways Kit No. MS2645