st cyrus nature reserve

Scotland’s National Nature Reserves

The Story of

St Cyrus

National Nature Reserve

For more information about St Cyrus National Nature Reserve please contact:

Andy Turner, Reserve Manager, St Cyrus NNR, Nether Warbuton, St Cyrus, Montrose, DD10 0QA

Tel: 01674 830736 Fax: 01674 830736

Email: [email protected]

The Story of St Cyrus National Nature Reserve Foreword St Cyrus National Nature Reserve (NNR) is one of the most picturesque sections of coastline in north-east Scotland. Taking up the northern third of the magnificent sandy sweep of Montrose Bay, the Reserve comprises 92 hectares (ha) of mixed coastal habitat. Towering volcanic cliffs and yellow dunes enclose a spectacular wildflower meadow that supports a number of rare plants and insects. The mild, sheltered climate and nutrient-rich soils provide a sanctuary for a range of plant species that are characteristic of a more southern climate. Many plants and insects found here are at the northern limit of their range in Britain. The seclusion of gorse scrub provides safe nesting for a host of small birds, such as stonechat, yellowhammer and whitethroat. The ready accessibility of this tranquil refuge attracts thousands of visitors each year, with many of them passing through the doors of the award winning Visitor Centre. Designated as a NNR in 1962, it has been managed for the conservation of its special wildlife, and for the enjoyment and education of its visitors, ever since. St Cyrus is one of 58 NNRs in Scotland. All are managed primarily for nature, but also provide the opportunity for visitors to experience and enjoy our rich natural heritage. The Reserve Story is one of a series of documents used to guide management of the Reserve. It introduces the Reserve and outlines the history of the land before it became a NNR, present management practices, and brief descriptions of the wildlife and habitats. The Reserve Proposals outline how it is proposed to manage the Reserve in future years; comments are invited on the proposals and will be used to inform the Reserve Plan. The Plan is the blueprint for management of the Reserve for a six-year period. At the end of the plan period, a Reserve Review is used to report how well our plans have worked. These documents can be downloaded from the NNRs website (www.nnr-scotland.org.uk) or obtained from the address below.

The Story of St Cyrus National Nature Reserve

For further information about St Cyrus National Nature Reserve please contact: Andy Turner, St Cyrus NNR, The Old Lifeboat Station, Nether Warburton, St Cyrus, Montrose, DD10 0AQ Telephone: 01674 830736 Fax: 01674 830736 E-mail: [email protected]

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Contents Foreword i

Maps of St Cyrus NNR iv

1 Introduction to St Cyrus NNR 1

2 The Natural Heritage of St Cyrus NNR 3

3 Management of St Cyrus before it became a NNR 12

4 Management of St Cyrus NNR 16

5 Document properties 26

Appendix 1 - National Nature Reserves (NNR) 28

Appendix 2 - Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) 30

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Maps of St Cyrus NNR1

Location maps

Boundary of St Cyrus NNR

1 These maps are based upon the Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the Controller of Her Majesty’s Stationary Office ©Crown copyright (2008). Any unauthorised reproduction infringes Crown copyright and may lead to prosecution or civil proceedings. ©Scottish Natural Heritage 100017908 (2008)

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Aerial photographs of St Cyrus NNR 2001

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1 Introduction to St Cyrus NNR St Cyrus NNR nestles directly beneath the village of St Cyrus on the north-east coast of Scotland, approximately 7 kilometres (km) north of Montrose. The setting, with a spectacular wind-sculpted beach, towering volcanic cliffs, and dune pasture carpeted with fragrant wildflowers, is breathtaking. The Reserve is important for its coastal habitats, and especially for a number of wildflower and moth species that are at, or near, their northern limit in Britain. Some of these species, such as the clustered bellflower, are rarely found elsewhere in Scotland. The diverse flora attracts a corresponding variety of uncommon invertebrates, including four species of grasshopper and the rare small blue butterfly. The teeming insect-life provides an abundant food supply for a host of summer breeding birds. The richness of the St Cyrus flora and fauna is influenced by several factors: the diversity of coastal habitat, the presence of base-rich rocks, and a generally fine climate of its sheltered location. The Kincardine coast benefits from the warming influence of the sea, and has a climate more characteristic of the north-east coast of England. The rainfall at St Cyrus is relatively low, and there are long periods of spring and summer sunshine. The Reserve has a south-easterly aspect and gains shelter from the cliffs to the west and dunes to the east. Consequently the mainly south-westerly wind is often barely noticeable, and severe frosts and snow are uncommon. This microclimate is one of the main reasons for the incredible diversity of wildlife on the Reserve. St Cyrus NNR is relatively small, encompassing a 92 ha strip of coastal habitat just 3.5 km long, and less than 500 metres (m) across at its widest point. It is separated from the sandy sweep of the rest of Montrose Bay to the south by the River North Esk, which marks the southern boundary of the Reserve. The Woodston Burn waterfall, just south of Milton Ness Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), marks the northern limit. To the west is a wall of fine-grained volcanic rock, while to the east the North Sea. The Reserve’s earliest history can be read from the landscape. The volcanic rocks of the cliff are testament to a turbulent geological past, whilst the dune grasslands are just the overgrown beaches of more ancient seas. The natural forces of sea and wind have shaped, and continue to re-shape, the dunes, the beach and the mouth of the River North Esk. The leeward side of the dunes are protected from the predominantly onshore winds ensuring the survival of the expanse of species-rich dune grassland for which St Cyrus is famed. Through the spring and summer months this meadow comes alive with a riot of wildflower colour and a cacophony of birdsong.

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St Cyrus NNR is part of the larger St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI, which extends south of the North Esk estuary. The features of St Cyrus NNR that have been selected for protection under UK legislation are listed in Table 1. Table 1 Designated and qualifying features for St Cyrus NNR Designation Site of Special Scientific Interest

(SSSI)

St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI

Species Breeding bird assemblage Grasshoppers Vascular plant assemblage Moths Small blue butterfly Habitat Sand dune

More information on designations, and the policy and purpose of NNRs, can be found in the appendices.

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2 The Natural Heritage of St Cyrus NNR The dune system and towering cliffs of St Cyrus NNR offer protection from the, often ferocious, onshore winds, and give rise to a micro-climate quite different from the surrounding area. This sheltered haven is one of the richest and most important botanical sites on the coast of north-east Scotland. Surrounded by more intensively managed agricultural land, the plants and animals of the Reserve are now quite isolated from similar areas and more vulnerable because of that. Geology, geomorphology and soils Most of St Cyrus NNR is only a few metres above sea level, bounded by a dune-ridge to the east, and cliffs reaching as high as 75 m to the west. The base of the cliffs is banked with windblown sand and fallen rock. The cliffs are of varied composition, but are mainly volcanic rocks such as andesite and basalt. They were formed around 400 million years ago when Scotland lay south of the Equator and had a hot, semi-arid climate. Sandstone and conglomerate also occur, and the variance in rock type can clearly be seen, as you look northward to the red cliffs by Milton Ness. The cliffs of St Cyrus are in fact former sea cliffs. During the last ice-age sea levels were much lower than they are today, as a result of the volume of frozen ice sheet. When the ice melted, most of what is now St Cyrus NNR was submerged, and the waves of the North Sea lapped against the cliffs. Over time the force of the sea slowly eroded the cliffs causing them to retreat. There have been many stages of melting and re-freezing of the glaciers and ice sheets in the Grampian region, with corresponding changes in sea level. This succession of sea levels can be seen on the Reserve as a series of raised beaches along the base of the cliffs. A relict feature from more recent times is the dry river channel that 'flows' across the Reserve. Prior to 1879 the North Esk flowed through the Reserve before reaching the sea several hundred metres further north than today. Local legend says that during a particularly stormy night in 1879 the river, fuelled with water from melting snow upstream, burst its banks and took a direct course out to sea, leaving the old channel high and dry. It is likely that the retreat of the river was a more gradual process, indeed the position of the river mouth still moves up and down the coast, but the old channel is still clearly visible running past the NNR visitor centre, and remains the wettest part of the Reserve.

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Habitats The habitats of the Reserve have been formed by the action of sea, river and wind, and lie in a parallel sequence progressing inland from the sea. The beach is not part of the Reserve, but the natural processes that take place here, under the influence of the prevailing weather, help shape the unique combination of habitats. The areas of dune, pasture and cliff are intimately linked, and are almost constantly evolving with the seasons, and changing weather conditions. This section describes in more detail how the landscape of St Cyrus influences the diversity of important species to be found on the Reserve.

The beach, grassland and cliffs at St Cyrus

The sand dunes Unlike the dunes of Montrose beach to the south, the dunes of St Cyrus are currently growing in size, but 20 years ago they were eroding – it is a constantly changing coastline. Along the foreshore, sand combines naturally with pioneer plants, driftwood, and other seaborne debris to form foredunes or embryo dunes. This is a very harsh environment and the best examples can be seen at the south end of the Reserve near the Visitor Centre. These grade naturally into the main ‘yellow’ dunes,

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which stretch in a long, narrow, south-east-facing ridge that rises up to 10 m above the beach in places. The dune landscape is constantly evolving under the natural influence of wind and water. The dunes at the southern tip of the Reserve suffer from erosion when floodwater from the North Esk combines with a high tide. Further north the dunes become more vegetated and therefore more stable. Marram grass and sea lyme grass are the dominant plants here; both have vast root networks that help bind sand and hold the dunes together. These robust plants can survive being completely covered, and provide shelter to trap wind-blown sand that stabilises the dunes and moderates erosion. The resilience of the dune grasses belies the sensitivity of this ‘fluid’ landscape. Damage to these plants by trampling or vehicles removes the natural ‘sand-trap’, and the windy conditions that prevail here could rapidly erode areas of the dunes. Once over the crest of the main dunes, the dramatic drop in wind speed is illustrated by the change in sand structure. The windblown seaward face of the dunes fluctuates as sand is constantly eroded and re-deposited. In sharp contrast, the leeward side of the dunes is more regular. Here, the conditions are not as harsh, enabling more plants to grow. These are known as ‘grey dunes’, named for the lichen ‘mats’ growing beneath the plants that increase the sand stability, and provide opportunities for soil development. The sand is sufficiently enriched by minerals probably from shells, to support mildly lime-loving vegetation, and St Cyrus is locally rich in such species. The dune grassland The dune grassland stretches from the base of the dunes to the foot of the cliff, and enjoys the benefit of shelter from both. The ground here is fairly level, and much more stable than the adjacent dunes. Turf covers the sand where a skin of soil has developed, holding moisture to support a species-rich grassland flora. The soils here are well-drained and nutrient-rich, as they are also fed by minerals washed down from the mineral rich cliffs. The combination of a warm, sheltered aspect and an ample supply of nutrients encourage the growth of abundant wildflowers. Many of the plants found here are

Dune grassland

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lime-loving, and are more characteristic of the chalk and limestone habitats of southern and eastern England. Rabbits graze the long grasses, providing an open sward of short turf that is favoured by the wildflowers. The resulting meadow is awash with violets, lady's bedstraw and pink-flowered rest harrow. In June and July the grassland is bathed in purple from the profusion of clustered bellflower, another plant at its northern limit on the Reserve. The old salt marsh Behind the dune ridge, there is an area of old salt marsh (known locally as ‘the Slunks’). It occupies a flat area where once the North Esk flowed, and was formed after the river changed course in 1879. Seawater regularly filled the abandoned river channel. Conditions were thus created for salt tolerant plants, and species such as sea aster thrived here. The salt marsh was regularly immersed with tidal seawater until the 1980s, when blown sand covered much of the lower marsh, and closed off the seaward end. The salt water influence diminished and seawater now rarely inundates the marsh, but the area is on, or slightly below, the water table, so the soil still remains wet all year round. With less salty water, damp-loving plants, such as reed canary grass, common reed, and rarer plants like northern marsh orchid, have now replaced most of the salt marsh plants. Some coastal plants, such as sea club-rush, still prosper. A more recent development has been the expansion of the alder stands, which grew from seeds washed in around the year 2000. The volatility of the natural environment should never be under-estimated, and the cycle which began in 1879 could easily start all over again. The cliffs The cliffs, or Heughs, of St Cyrus are the characteristic haven of some of the Reserve’s rarer plants, such as the Nottingham catchfly. The base-rich volcanic cliffs crumble easily, and are prone to weathering; nutrients are readily released into the soils at their base, allowing some of the cliff plants to spread into the grassland and dunes. The host of flowering plants growing on Cliffs at St Cyrus

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the cliff also contains many species at the northern limit of their range. The ledges and crevices support a thin layer of fertile soil, but the range of species that can survive here are restricted to those which are drought and salt tolerant. The most fertile areas are found in gullies and drainage channels, where plants such as the uncommon hemp agrimony have found a niche. The steep sea cliffs at the north end of the Reserve lack the protection of the sand dunes. They support a more strongly maritime flora that is salt-tolerant. A range of plants including thrift, scurvy grass and sea wormwood dominate these rocky crags. The cliffs fronted by dunes have a weaker maritime influence, and consequently a richer flora dominated by mostly non-maritime species. The dominant plants are mosses and lichens, and the rocky ledges are host to a rich variety of plants, such as hairy violet, Nottingham catchfly and soft trefoil that cling on to sheltered crevices. Introduced species also occur sporadically, blown over the cliff from the nearby village gardens. Species Vascular plants The sheltered location and mineral-rich, well-drained soils enable St Cyrus NNR to support over 300 species of plant. A broad ranging flora is represented: sea club-rush in the old salt marsh, flag iris in boggy areas, sea couch grass on the dunes, biting stonecrop on the cliffs, and primroses among the rock debris of the lower slopes. Many plants are locally or regionally important because they are at their northern limit in Britain, such as maiden pink, wild liquorice, and yellow vetch. One of the most interesting is a small, night scented, flower called Nottingham catchfly. This plant supplements the lack of nutrients gained from the sandy soil by catching unsuspecting insects on its sticky leaves, where they are slowly digested. As its name suggests, Nottingham catchfly is more readily found in central England than northeast Scotland, and is also at its northern limit at St Cyrus. The Reserve is famous for its winter annuals, so named because they usually germinate in autumn, and over-winter as seedlings to get an early start to the season. Spring vetch, forget-me-nots and wall speedwell flourish by tracks and rabbit warrens, adding pastel shades of early spring colour.

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Vascular plants on the species rich grassland

Lower plants Around 20 species of lichen have been recorded on the Reserve. On the sea cliffs, above the high water mark, livid orange and yellow patches of Xanthoria and Caloplaca contrast with the grey mantle of Lecanora, Ramalina and Physcia lichens. Where the cliffs are flushed by lime-rich water there are yellow-orange mats of Cratoneuron mosses. Mosses are the first plants to colonise the leeward side of the dunes, and play an important part in the transformation of open dunes to dune pasture. They carpet the ground in a soft mat that ‘fixes’ the sand and forms the beginnings of soil. Lichens are some of the earliest species to appear, particularly species of Peltigera and Cladonia. In wet weather they often colour the ground grey, giving rise to the name of ‘grey dunes’. Kinnaber Links, part of St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI, which lies to the south of St Cyrus NNR, is important for a number of scarce Cladonia lichen species. Birds Over 70 different species of breeding birds have been recorded at St Cyrus NNR. It is one of the best known bird sites in Angus and Kincardine.

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A wide range of waders including oystercatchers, redshank and common sandpiper use the North Esk estuary. The air vibrates with the squabbling gulls and the high-pitched screaming of terns. The unmistakeable melancholy call of the curlew may be heard in any season. Fulmar and herring gull choose the cliff ledges to raise their families, as do buzzard, kestrel and peregrine.

Oystercatcher One of most important bird habitats at St Cyrus is the gorse scrub, which provides a discreet haven for small perching birds. There are good breeding populations of stonechat, whitethroat and yellowhammer, which nest in the gorse and broom, and feed on the ample supply of insects. Small numbers of grasshopper warbler also breed on the Reserve, but they are shy birds more likely to be identified by their ‘grasshopper-like’ song. Many of these species have traditionally been farmland birds, found on heath and rough pasture. Modern farming practices have decimated their established nesting habitat, and their occurrence, especially in large numbers, is becoming rarer. Sites like St Cyrus NNR provide an important sanctuary for these species, and allow us to be re-introduced to some of our declining countryside favourites. Others, like the famous summer breeding colony of little and arctic terns have been absent from the Reserve for many years now. We cannot be certain, but their decline is probably due to a combination of habitat change, human disturbance and the natural fluctuations which are typical of some bird species. Invertebrates Unsurprisingly, given its abundance of wildflowers, St Cyrus NNR is an important site for butterfly, moth and grasshopper species. The small blue butterfly is at its northern limit at St Cyrus NNR, and scarce even in southern Scotland. Its sole food plant is kidney vetch, which favours the calcareous soils of the Reserve. The small blue butterfly is a UK Common blue butterfly

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Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) priority species. Many of the more common butterfly species may be seen at St Cyrus including green hairstreak, common blue and meadow brown. Over 200 species of moth have been recorded on the Reserve, including some rare species at the limit of their range in Britain. The elegantly coloured cinnabar moth, with its tiger-striped caterpillar, is one such species that is not found any further north than St Cyrus. The larval food plants of this moth are ragwort and groundsel, which contain poisons that render the caterpillars inedible to insect-eating creatures. Other rare moths recorded at St Cyrus include the bordered grey and bordered sallow, and several species of micro-moth. The land snail Cepaea nemoralis is also at its northernmost British location here. St Cyrus is one of only two locations in Britain where the land snails C. nemoralis and C. hortentis are found together. All four of Scotland's species of grasshopper occur at St Cyrus: the common green grasshopper, the field grasshopper, the meadow grasshopper and the mottled grasshopper. Mammals The Reserve is home to several roe deer, which remain on the cliffs during the day and come down to the lower slopes, and even the beach, at night. The Reserve also has a fox and stoat population. Analysis of fox scats performed by Aberdeen University in 2000 found that the foxes at St Cyrus feed mainly on rabbits, insects and earthworms, rather than ground nesting birds, so they are a welcome addition to the wildlife mix. Rabbits are very plentiful on the Reserve. In places they help keep long grasses in check, but elsewhere their burrowing can lead to erosion, which is a problem when it affects paths. Otters are present up-stream from the Reserve on the North Esk. Common and grey seals occasionally bask on the sand banks at the mouth of the river. Dolphin, porpoise, minke whale and killer whales have been sighted offshore Reptiles, amphibians and fish Common lizards are frequently seen basking in the sand dunes, or on a bare patch of earth, during the summer months. Common frogs and toads are also present on the Reserve. Summary A rare combination of natural coincidences played a large part in the unusual diversity of wildlife at St Cyrus. It was a twist of geological fate that provided the towering

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volcanic cliffs that enrich the local soils, and provide shelter from the onshore winds. Wind and water moulded the dune ridge that holds back the pervading sand. The wide variety of habitat at St Cyrus has made it a haven for many species that are rarely seen at this northern latitude in Britain. The sheltered micro-climate and the lime-rich soils provide a stronghold for many characteristic southern plants, and an associated invertebrate community. The abundant insects, in turn, attract large numbers of insectivorous birds that are able to take sanctuary in the gorse scrub. The natural balance at St Cyrus is maintained in delicate equilibrium, with many species dependent on each other. Additionally, the harsh climatic conditions that prevail in the north-east of Scotland provide little opportunity for climatically sensitive plant communities to expand into the surrounding countryside. Continued habitat and species management, and responsible enjoyment of this special place will ensure it remains one of Scotland’s most remarkable places for wildlife.

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3 Management of St Cyrus before it became a NNR Key Events in the History of St Cyrus Date Event 4 000-3 000 BC Evidence of Neolithic settlement near Nether Warburton. 2 000-700 BC Evidence of Bronze Age burial remains. 1200s Earliest references to salmon fishing rights. 1242 Church of Ecclesgreig is dedicated on the site of Nether

Kirkyard. Early 1400s Kaim o’ Mathers castle built. 1632 Church of Ecclesgreig (Nether Kirk) abandoned, and a new

kirk built at St Cyrus. Late 1700s First lime works at Milton of Mathers. 1795 The village at Milton of Mathers is washed away by the sea. 1800s Discovery of Bronze Age burial remains at Commieston. 1800s Fishing stations of Kirkside and Woodston are built. St Cyrus

fishings owned by Fordyce of Bruckley and the Fraser family. 1800s Ice houses built at Woodston and Nether Warburton. 1847 Discovery of Neolithic remains at Nether Warburton. Late 1860s Lifeboat station established at Kirkside. 1865 The viaduct for the Montrose to Inverbervie railway line is built. 1870 The fishing bothy at Woodston burn is washed away. 1879 The River North Esk changes course. 1882 A Russian sailing ship (the BOAS) is wrecked on St Cyrus

beach. Mid-1880s Old lifeboat station ceases to be used. 1900 Woodston fishings bought by Johnstons. 1920s Kirkside fishings bought by Tay Salmon Fisheries. 1955 SSSI notified.

Archaeology, history and culture The area now designated as St Cyrus NNR is steeped in human history stretching back to Neolithic times, with many close links to the North Sea. Despite this distinguished history, the name ‘St Cyrus’ has only been in use since the 17th century. Prior to this the Old Kirk, now known as the Nether Kirkyard, and the surrounding parish were known as Ecclesgreig. The Nether (lower) Kirkyard is a familiar feature of the Reserve, and is thought to mark the site of the church of Ecclesgreig consecrated in 1242. Although the church has now completely gone, some early gravestones remain, as do the ruins of the ‘Watchers’ House’ where relatives watched over the newly buried bodies for fear of

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body-snatchers. Nether Kirkyard was abandoned in 1632 when the 'new' church was built in St Cyrus village. There are no recorded archaeological sites within the NNR, but this is unsurprising given its relatively small size. Around 5 000 years ago the area was probably below the high water mark, and any remains would have rapidly been buried by sand.

Overlooking Nether Kirkyard

Nearby evidence of an early settlement was uncovered in 1847 when a local farmer at Nether Warburton discovered a cave entrance in the old cliff adjacent to the current Visitor Centre. Within the cave he was pleased to find a plentiful supply of bones, and began to utilise them for liming his fields! Fortunately the find was soon brought to the attention of anthropologists who identified the remains as evidence of Neolithic dwellers dating from between 4 000 and 3 000 years BC. The bones were identified as being from a variety of animals and birds, including ox, pig, deer, badger, sheep, sea birds and shell fish, and were believed to be from a Stone Age kitchen midden (refuse heap). Pieces of pottery and an amulet were also found. Some of the bones may still be seen in Montrose Museum. It is believed that the area was well populated in the Bronze Age, and many Bronze Age burial mounds have been unearthed in agricultural fields, close to the NNR, at Commieston. Unfortunately these were lost to the plough in the 19th Century. Stane

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o’ Morphie, a Bronze Age standing stone dating from around 2 000 years BC, can still be seen today at nearby Stone of Morphie farm. Just beyond the northern boundary of the Reserve, on a rocky promontory, lies Kaim o’ Mathers. This is the ruin of a castle allegedly built in the early 15th Century by David Barclay of Mathers, in order to defend himself from the wrath of James the First. The cause of the King’s displeasure was that Barclay, aided by other local lairds, boiled the Sheriff and supped the brew, as the result of a dispute! Fishing for sea trout and salmon has been practiced at St Cyrus for hundreds of years, but it was in the early 18th Century that the industry expanded. Much of the expansion was due to the discovery of a better way to preserve the fish, by packing it in ice. Ice cut from the River North Esk in winter was stored in icehouses, which can be seen adjacent to the NNR at Kirkside and Woodston. These buildings were built into embankments and slopes, or down into the ground, to help maintain the cold temperature, and were the equivalent of modern freezers. In 1865 the viaduct over the North Esk was completed, providing a long-awaited railway link between Montrose and Inverbervie. The railway line had originally been conceived as a way to transport fish and agricultural produce to the South. It was to run for 101 years and undoubtedly provided a boost for tourism in the local area. The viaduct can clearly be seen from the Reserve, and the remains of parts of the cuttings and railway embankment lie just above the cliff. Another major industry in the local area was lime extraction. The earliest lime works were operating from the late 18th Century at Milton of Mathers, just north of the Reserve. The limestone here stretched in a band across the bay. This venture came to an untimely end when, after years of blasting, the sea broke through the thinning limestone barrier, and flooded the village. The remains of a later lime works, at East Mathers, are still evident today. Around the late 1860s the current NNR Visitor Centre started life as a lifeboat station, probably in response to the burgeoning fishing industry. The shape of the large lifeboat doors is still visible at the rear of the Visitor Centre. The station saw little active service and was no longer in use by the mid-1880s, probably as a result of the change in course of the North Esk, which used to flow past the station. Land use history St Cyrus has been used as a base for salmon netting since the 18th century or earlier, and until recently was still used as such. Fishermen used the fishing bothies behind the dunes to store their nets and equipment. The areas of short grass adjacent to the bothies are known as drying greens. Here the fishing nets were hung over stakes, like a giant washing line, to allow them to dry, and for the fishermen to perform any repairs. The fishermen carried out controlled burning on the drying greens to keep the

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grass short, and to avoid accidental fires that might damage the nets, and consequently their livelihood. It is likely that the sand dune system was once more extensive, and probably covered the agricultural fields that now lie adjacent to the southern part of the Reserve. Prior to the declaration of St Cyrus as a NNR, domestic livestock were grazed over much of the land. Traditional management practices probably involved some form of burning to maintain viable pasture. The Reserve is now orientated towards conservation of its important wildlife and habitats, and for the recreation of the many visitors who come to enjoy it. Summary The traditional land management that has been practised at St Cyrus for centuries enhanced the natural attributes of the landscape. The controlled burning of rank grass, that was a part of this regime, maintained the short sward favoured by so many of the wildflowers that flourish here. Today, much of the Reserve management aims to incorporate some of these traditional methods, alongside more natural processes, to maintain the floristic diversity for which St Cyrus is famed.

Fishing nets drying at St Cyrus

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4 Management of St Cyrus NNR Key Events in the History of St Cyrus NNR Date Event 1962 St Cyrus NNR declared. 1962 Nature Reserve Agreement (NRA) with Joseph Johnston and Sons Ltd for

25 years. 1965 The first NNR Management Plan is produced. 1966 Reserve Nature Trail established, with accompanying leaflet. 1979 First full time, locally based Reserve warden appointed. 1980 Second Management Plan produced. 1983 Aberdeenshire Council car park completed. 1984 Appointment of the first summer warden. 1985 Footbridge constructed over the salt marsh by Gurkha soldiers. 1987 NRA between SNH and Joseph Johnston and Sons Ltd for 25 years.

(Northern part of the NNR). NRA between SNH and Tay Salmon Fisheries Ltd for 25 years. (Southern part of NNR). NRA between SNH and Mary Singleton for 25 years. (Central part of the NNR).

1987 Commencement of annual monitoring of rare wildflower species. 1989 St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI re-notified. 1989 Conversion of the Old Lifeboat Station to a visitor centre. 1989 St Cyrus becomes part of the national Butterfly Monitoring Scheme. 1995 St Cyrus NNR Liaison Group is established. 1999 R and S Fisheries lease Woodston salmon fishing rights from Joseph

Johnston and Sons Ltd for a period of 5 years. 2000 SNH purchase the northern section from Joseph Johnston and Sons Ltd. 2001 St Cyrus NNR becomes a member of the Green Tourism Business

Scheme (GTBS). 2001 Title to Woodston Fisheries bought by Amber Agriculture. 2002 St Cyrus NNR is awarded GTBS silver status. 2002 SNH purchase the southern section from Tay Salmon Fisheries Ltd. 2004 The Visitor Centre is upgraded, and interpretation panels are installed at

the Gurkha Bridge, Woodston Fishery and car park. 2005 Title to Woodston salmon fishing rights bought by Esk Salmon

Management Ltd from Amber Agriculture. Esk Salmon Management Ltd leased salmon fishing rights to R and S Fisheries for a period of 3 years.

2006 Two picnic benches are installed behind the Visitor Centre. 2007 A covered notice board is installed. 2007 St Cyrus NNR is awarded GTBS gold status.

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All NNRs are managed for primacy of nature, with minimal intervention wherever possible. SNH also have a responsibility to promote the enjoyment and appreciation of these wild places. Management of the Natural Heritage Since publication of the first Management Plan, more than 40 years ago, our underlying objectives for management of the Reserve have largely remained the same. Our aims, then and now, promote conservation of the flora and fauna, provide and encourage research and study of the wildlife, and enhance the public’s understanding and appreciation of the NNR. Over the years, the way we have achieved these objectives has varied according to the degree and nature of the perceived pressures at the time. The second Management Plan, for example, compartmentalised the Reserve according to habitat type, with prescribed management techniques for each section. Today we take a more holistic view and the Reserve is managed as a whole, with consideration for the dynamic relationship between the various habitat types. Management plans have had to adapt in response to the pressures of the modern world. The Reserve’s scenic value has to be safeguarded, whilst managing the needs of an increasing number of visitors, with an ever wider range of recreational expectations. Additional objectives to cover building and landscape management, and recreation are now included. Habitat management Recent habitat management at St Cyrus has concentrated on the preservation and restoration of wildflower rich grassland on the Reserve. The cliff slope and sand dunes rarely require active habitat management, being largely natural with few invasive species. Limited accessibility, and the instability of the rock face, also restricts management of the cliff slope. The former salt marsh area has changed as a result of natural processes, and there has so far been no intervention to alter this. In the past the salmon fisherman burnt areas of grassland and gorse within the wildflower meadows. This reduced the risk of uncontrolled fire in the rank vegetation, which could damage their nets. The additional benefit of this practice was to produce a short sward that made wildflowers more visible. The demise of salmon fishing since 2000 has meant that Reserve Staff have undertaken this Controlled burning

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work during the winter months with the aim of increasing species richness and diversity. Some plant species such as wild liquorice can be killed off by burning, so a carefully targeted approach has been employed. Species maps are used to identify the areas to be avoided, and in these locations cutting is used to control rank grass. This is more labour intensive than burning but more sympathetic to sensitive plant species. As an experimental alternative to this regime, SNH are planning to introduce Highland cattle grazing on a limited area of the Reserve by the end of 2008. Maintaining a short sward height by grazing has the additional benefit of reducing the risk of uncontrolled wildfires. A major programme of gorse removal was undertaken in the 1980s and since 2000 further cutting and burning has been undertaken to prevent its spread across the Reserve. The fallen needles from gorse bushes are very acidic and prevent the growth of virtually any vegetation beneath the bush. Some gorse is left to provide cover and nesting habitat for small birds. In the 1970s bracken began to spread from the cliff slope, and to encroach on the species-rich wildflower meadow. Bracken is invasive and shades out less competitive plant species; it also supports fewer insect and bird species than wildflower meadow. There have been several attempts to control the spread and extent of bracken at St Cyrus, all with limited success. However, in 2002, we purchased specialised cutting and bruising equipment, and since then ground has been won back. It is gradually being restored to wildflower meadow, with several important and rare species re-appearing. Despite the sometimes hostile environment, and the apparent hardiness of some of the plant species, the Reserve is incredibly sensitive to erosion and other damage. Trampling damage can erode vegetation cover allowing the ‘hard-won’ sandy soil to be dispersed by the wind. Reserve staff monitor the impact of people trampling through the dunes and if necessary take action to reduce damage. The provision of good paths for visitors helps to reduce the risk of erosion. The use of motorised vehicles on the Reserve is illegal but still occurs occasionally and is extremely damaging to the dune system. In 2004 we erected a barrier across the main entrance to prevent motorbikes entering the Reserve. Species management The removal of competitive grasses and maintenance of a short sward is of direct benefit to many of the scarce plants found at St Cyrus. The distribution and population numbers of all of the notified plant species (rare plants and those at their northern limit) are monitored throughout the summer, with annual records stretching back to 1987. The following graphs of recorded wildflower numbers since 1987 illustrate that populations, especially those near the limits of their range, can fluctuate dramatically

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from year to year. It is often difficult to assess the cause of these variations, and it could be that a combination of factors, such as seasonal climatic change or management intervention, may be responsible. Certainly many of these species are marginal, and therefore particularly susceptible to change.

Note: numbers of maiden pink peaked at 124 000 in 1998

Numbers of Nottingham catchfly recorded at St Cyrus (1987 - 2007)

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Numbers of kidney vetch recorded at St Cyrus (1987 - 2007)

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Kidney vetch is monitored at St Cyrus because it is the sole food plant of the small blue butterfly; its continued presence is very important to these localised butterfly communities that do not migrate great distances. Some rare plants, such as yellow vetch and hairy violet, occur less regularly. Yellow vetch, for example was not seen on the Reserve between 1988 and 2004, but was recorded again in 2005. The management of species-rich grassland habitats is beneficial for butterfly, moth and grasshopper species. Many of the rare invertebrate species present at St Cyrus NNR are linked to the presence of their key food plants. Grasshopper species benefit from a short sward with areas to bask in the sun. Likewise the rare small blue butterfly only frequents areas of short, open vegetation in sheltered locations. Butterfly numbers and species have been monitored on a weekly basis throughout the summer months since 1987 as part of the national Butterfly Monitoring Scheme. Moths are recorded on

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annual visits by Dr Mark Young of Aberdeen University, and Reserve staff monitor species presence and abundance. Many of the 70 species of bird that breed at St Cyrus are ground nesting. This makes them especially susceptible to disturbance by people and dogs, and predation, particularly by foxes. In the 1970s and 1980s a colony of little and Arctic terns nested on shingle deposits in the southern part of St Cyrus NNR. In order to reduce the impact of human and dog disturbance to these important and protected species, and to other species of ground nesting birds, a barrier fence was erected in 1971. The fence stretched from the tide line to the Visitor Centre, enclosing the southern area of the Reserve. The fence continued to be erected annually from April to August until 2007 so that the area could be maintained as a sanctuary. In 2007, for the first time in 20 years, there was a pair of little terns breeding on the Reserve. Signs are posted at the main visitor entrances to the Reserve requesting that dog owners keep their dogs under close control to avoid disturbance of wildlife. However, human disturbance generally remains a concern at St Cyrus. Research and Demonstration Plants and insects at the limit of their geographical range can be greatly affected by environmental change. Variation in climatic conditions can have a dramatic effect upon these marginal populations; a reduction in average growing season temperature could lead to the loss of many of the species that are at the northern limit of their range at St Cyrus. Monitoring the status of plant and insect populations at St Cyrus is an important part of our work, and the resulting data can provide an indication of climatic change. Research projects aid our understanding of climatic and other factors when assessing wildlife populations. Information obtained from research helps shape our management strategy, and enables us to maintain optimum conditions for important plants, and their associated insect and bird populations. St Cyrus NNR has been used as a site for important research conducted by the Centre for Ecology and Hydrology (CEH), and Aberdeen University. Research subjects include the distribution and status of wildflowers, and the distribution, status and activity of butterfly and moth populations, including the small blue butterfly, several micro-moth species and the cinnabar moth. The landforms and geomorphology of St Cyrus have also been part of intensive study, most recently as part of an 'Assessment of the rates and causes of change in Scotland’s beaches and dunes' by Hansom, J.D., Rennie, A.F. and Drummond, J.E. & Dunlop, A. in 2004.

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St Cyrus NNR is a popular venue for field studies centres carrying out course fieldwork. These courses are often aimed at developing plant identification skills. Management for People The primary aim of NNRs is conservation, but they are also places for people to enjoy and appreciate Scotland's special natural heritage. During the 1960s, visitor facilities at St Cyrus were relatively low-key. In 1966 a nature trail was established across the Reserve and an accompanying ‘St Cyrus Nature Trail’ leaflet was produced. The Nature Trail was subsequently closed in 1975, as it appeared to be increasing erosion of the dunes. During the 1980s, with growing visitor numbers, there was an increased emphasis on visitor management and environmental education at St Cyrus. Over a period of just a few years the Reserve saw the appointment of the first summer warden, the construction of a footbridge over the old salt marsh, and the opening of a visitor centre. The Reserve leaflet was updated in 1983, and again in 1994 and 2002. Today, the Visitor Centre holds a 3-star visitor attraction rating, and receives between 15 000 and 20 000 visitors annually. The pressure on this fragile environment has never been greater. This section sets out how SNH aim to achieve the delicate balance between conservation and recreation, so that this special place is preserved for the enjoyment of future generations. Visitors St Cyrus NNR is well used by local people, and is also a popular summer destination for visitors from throughout Britain and beyond. The Reserve is relatively close to the cities of Aberdeen and Dundee, and is readily accessible by road and rail. The Reserve is accessed from the A92 coast road that runs through St Cyrus village. There are two car parks adjacent to the SNH office and Visitor Centre, with Visitor Centre entrance

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dedicated parking for disabled visitors and cyclists. Public toilets are located next to the Visitor Centre. The Visitor Centre is located within the Old Lifeboat Station and was first opened in 1989. In 2004 the Centre underwent a major upgrade to improve visitor access and interpretation, and to restore some of the character of the original lifeboat station. Over 15 000 visitors per year pass through the lifeboat doors to learn more about the history and wildlife of the Reserve. As well as comprehensive interpretation about the Reserve and its history, visitors can also watch a film about the wildlife of St Cyrus in the small theatre. An indoor viewing gallery allows visitors to observe the scenery and wildlife away from the vagaries of the weather. St Cyrus NNR has a good network of paths that enable visitors to explore the Reserve without undue disturbance to wildlife. The Gurkha Bridge path, across the old salt marsh to the beach, was constructed in 1985, with further improvements made in 2003 and 2006. A 450 m section of this path, starting at the Visitor Centre, is suitable for all-ability use. There are several other formal maintained paths on the Reserve: the cliff path from St Cyrus village, the cliff path from Woodston Fishery, and the path from the Kirkyard to the fishing bothies. The cliff path from the village is a traditional route that was built in the late 1800s; it was upgraded in 2005 and 2007. The Woodston cliff path was upgraded in 2003. In 2004 interpretation panels were erected within the Reserve, on the Gurkha Bridge, at Woodston Fishery, and adjacent to the Visitor Centre. Two picnic benches were installed behind the Visitor Centre in 2006, and a covered notice board was added in 2007. Part of the NORTRAIL network of paths, which run along the coast of Britain and North Sea European countries, passes through the Reserve. This links the Reserve, by path, to the villages of Johnshaven and Inverbervie to the north. It is hoped that this path network, started in 2003, will eventually be extended to create a continuous path along the Aberdeenshire coast. SNH run an annual programme of guided walks, and hold an open day during the summer months. Walks are free of charge and are led by SNH staff or invited specialists. All interests and levels of experience are catered for, from mini-beast hunts for the young (or young at heart), to spring wildflower and autumn fungi identification walks. The Reserve and Visitor Centre are well used by children's wildlife groups, walking groups, bird watchers and botanists.

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Educational groups St Cyrus is a popular site for educational groups of all ages and ability, from nursery children through to senior school pupils. Many group visits to St Cyrus are accompanied by SNH staff to ensure that students get the most from their visit. Smaller groups may use the Visitor Centre. An audiovisual presentation area, with seating, allows groups to see slide shows or presentations specifically related to their studies. Around 20 groups visit St Cyrus each year to take advantage of the excellent facilities. Many of these are school groups, but we also support visiting universities, special interest groups and special needs groups. The Reserve is widely appreciated, with groups travelling from throughout Aberdeenshire and Angus.

Primary school visit

Local community St Cyrus NNR has close links with the local community, and is well used by local people. In 1995, the St Cyrus NNR Liaison Group was established to provide those with an interest in the Reserve a means of communicating with each other, and SNH, in a more structured and inclusive way. This group currently comprises 20 members who are representative of a wide range of user and interest groups, including Reserve neighbours, land owners, Community Councillor and Community Council representatives, Aberdeenshire Council Ranger Service, volunteers and honorary wardens. The Group meets twice a year to discuss progress over the past 6 months, and advise on any issues arising. St Cyrus NNR has several volunteers from the local community who assist in practical management tasks on the Reserve, and species monitoring. There are three honorary wardens who also assist with monitoring work, open days, and occasional guided walks. Volunteers and honorary wardens bring a wealth of knowledge and experience to their work at St Cyrus NNR, and are an asset to the continued management of the Reserve.

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Publications and promotions SNH has a suite of promotional material for all of the NNRs it manages, to raise awareness of the special features found on the Reserves. SNH seeks to enhance appreciation of Scotland’s natural heritage, and promotes responsible enjoyment of NNRs, so that disturbance to sensitive wildlife is minimised. The SNH visitor centre and on-site interpretation panels contain information about the Reserve so that visitors appreciate what makes St Cyrus a special place and why it has been designated a NNR. The geological, human and natural history of St Cyrus NNR are all explained. Several publications and advertising media are used to raise awareness off-site. The St Cyrus NNR leaflet, produced in 2002, is made available in the Visitor Centre, local Tourist Information Centres, local visitor attractions, libraries and other NNRs. The St Cyrus NNR leaflet is available in large print and Braille (available on request) versions, and in 2007 we translated the leaflet into a number of languages (English/French/German/Italian/Spanish).

NNR leaflet

The internet allows this information to be delivered to an even wider audience; St Cyrus is featured on the NNR website and on the SNH Grampian Area website page. Both of these enable readers to post messages or questions to SNH staff that are then fielded to the appropriate member of staff for a response. SNH staff also present talks and lectures to interested groups and clubs. Management of the Property St Cyrus was first designated as a NNR in 1962; at this time the Reserve was under the ownership of Joseph Johnston and Sons Ltd (a salmon fishing company), who signed a 25 year Nature Reserve Agreement (NRA). The NNR covers 92 ha in total, of which SNH own 14 ha in the north of the Reserve and 28 ha in the south. The northern section was bought by SNH in 2000 from Joseph Johnston and Sons Ltd, and the southern section in 2002 from Tay Salmon Fisheries Ltd. The remaining 50 ha in the centre is privately owned, and managed by SNH under a Nature Reserve Agreement (NRA). The Visitor Centre in the Old Lifeboat Station is owned by SNH; since being upgraded in 2004 it is Disability Discrimination Act (DDA) compliant. The NNR office adjoins the Visitor Centre and provides office space for two Reserve staff and a

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cleaner. SNH are responsible for the maintenance and cleaning of the Council-owned public toilets adjacent to the car park. St Cyrus NNR has been a member of the Green Tourism Business Scheme (GTBS) since 2001, achieving silver status in 2002, and gold status in 2007. The awards, by Visit Scotland, are in recognition of the Centre’s environmentally friendly features and function. Environmental improvements to the Visitor Centre and NNR office include ground-source heating and motion-sensitive lights SNH maintain all of the surfaced paths within the NNR, and the Gurkha Bridge. Areas of cliff path are notoriously difficult to maintain because of natural slippage and instability partially attributable to rabbits borrowing. The southern branch of the St Cyrus cliff path was closed due to rock fall in 2003, and remains closed today because we are unable to stabilise it sufficiently to enable safe public access. SNH own and maintain the car park at the Visitor Centre, whilst Aberdeenshire Council own and maintain the larger public car park. The Reserve has a full time Reserve Manager and a seasonal Site Management and Interpretation Officer, with weekly input from a SNH Estate Worker shared with Forvie and Muir of Dinnet NNRs. SNH has a responsibility to manage St Cyrus NNR with due regard to safe public access. Annual fire and health and safety checks are conducted in addition to quarterly visitor facility and building inspections.

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5 Document properties References Dargie, T. (2000) Sand Dune Survey of Scotland, East Coast – Volume 2: Site reports. Scottish Natural Heritage. Marren,P. (1980) The Natural History of St Cyrus National Nature Reserve. NCC publication. Rennie, A and Hansom, J. (2003) A study of the Coastal Geomorphology at St Cyrus NNR and Barry Buddin. Fenn, A. (1983) A Study on the Effects of Fire on the Invertebrate Fauna of a Coastal Cliff Grassland Community (Dissertation submitted for BSc). Lepper, D.W. (1980) A Study to Determine the Effects of Controlled Systematic Burning on the Cliff Slope Flora of St Cyrus National Nature Reserve with a view to Management Implications (Thesis submitted for MSc). Bayfield, N. and Taylor, P. (1994) St Cyrus Small Blue (Cupido minimus) Survey 1991, Institute for Terrestrial Ecology. St Cyrus NNR Management Plan (1965). St Cyrus NNR Second Management Plan (1980 – 1985). St Cyrus NNR Third Management Plan (1988 – 1993). St Cyrus NNR Management Plan (1996 – 2001). Fraser, D. Portrait of a Parish 2nd ed. (1979), Standard Press. Penrose Lindsay for information on Key Events in the Land Use History of St Cyrus. Photographs Photography by Lorne Gill/SNH. Links Scottish Natural Heritage www.snh.org.uk SNH Sitelink www.snh.org.uk/snhi/

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Joint Nature Conservation Committee www.jncc.gov.uk Acknowledgments The Story of St Cyrus has been written by Andrew Turner (Reserve Manager) and Jane Cox (independent contractor) edited by Susan Luurtsema (Managed Sites Unit) and approved by David Bale, (Area Manager – Grampian). We would like to thank the following SNH staff for their contribution and comments: Ewen Cameron (Operations Manager - Grampian), Gavin Clark (Rural Surveyor - Grampian), Rachel Wignall (Policy and Advice Officer – Earth Science), Robin Payne (Policy and Advice Advisor) and Susi Hodgson (Geographic Information Officer).

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Appendix 1 - National Nature Reserves (NNR) Scotland's NNRs are special places for nature, where many of the best examples of Scotland’s natural heritage are protected. Nature comes first on our NNRs, (referred to as primacy of nature). These Reserves also offer special opportunities for people to enjoy and find out about the richness of our natural heritage. NNRs are declared under the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949 or the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981. A new policy for NNRs in Scotland was developed in 1996. This Policy requires NNRs in Scotland to have four attributes, and to be managed for one or more of the three purposes. The attributes are • Primacy of nature. The needs of nature will be placed at the heart of decisions

about land-use and management of our NNRs, and nature conservation will be the overriding land use, although it may not be the sole purpose of management.

• National importance. It must be of national importance that the NNR be managed as a nature Reserve, for the protection of geological features, habitats, or species found there.

• Best practice management. NNRs must be well managed, not only to safeguard the nature conservation interests, but also to provide for people’s enjoyment and understanding.

• Continuity of management. Both research and management on NNRs require us to take a long-term view, so it is important that management continuity is assured.

The purposes are • National awareness of NNRs – on these Reserves people can take pride in the

natural heritage ‘on display’ and come to understand it better and enjoy it to the full.

• Specialised management of NNRs - the character of the interest requires specialised and pro-active management, which is best delivered by a nature Reserve.

• Research-related NNRs - These NNRs will offer opportunities for research into the natural heritage and its management, which specifically require a nature Reserve location and which are not available elsewhere.

From 2000 - 2003 all of Scotland’s NNRs were reviewed against this policy. Because of the review there are now 58 NNRs in Scotland. There are currently a number of NNRs identified during the review which have still to be taken through the de-declaration process. As a result of this a search on many SNH systems will show more than 58 NNRs until this work is completed.

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For more information see: Scotland’s National Nature Reserves: A policy statement http://www.snh.org.uk/pdfs/polstat/nnrpolcy.pdf National Nature Reserves – General Information http://www.nnr-scotland.org.uk

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Appendix 2 - Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) Scottish Natural Heritage is the key statutory agency in Scotland for advising Government and for acting as the Government’s agent in the delivery of conservation designations in Scotland. Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) is the main nature conservation designation in Great Britain. These sites are special for their plants or animals or habitats, their rocks or landforms or a combination of these. The SSSI series has been developed over the last 50 years, and since 1981 as the national suite of sites providing statutory protection for the best examples of GB’s flora, fauna, or geological or physiographical features. Originally notified under the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949, many SSSIs were renotified and others newly notified under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981 or the Nature Conservation (Scotland) Act 2004. Further changes in the protective mechanisms were introduced by the 2004 Act. These sites are also used to underpin other national and international nature conservation designations. Most SSSIs are privately owned or managed; others are owned or managed by public bodies or non-government organisations. There are more than 1400 SSSIs in Scotland. Web Links: ‘The Nature of Scotland – A Policy Statement’ http://www.scotland.gov.uk/library3/environment/nas-00.asp 'People and Nature: A New Approach to SSSI Designations in Scotland' http://www.scotland.gov.uk/library/documents-w1/pandn-00.htm Guidelines for selection of biological SSSIs http://www.jncc.gov.uk/Publications/sssi/default.htm Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI): http://www.snh.org.uk/about/ab-pa01.asp

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St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI Country Unitary Authority Grid Ref* Notified Area

Scotland Kincardine & Deeside/Angus District Councils NO 745630 17 February 1989 311.8 ha

*This is the approximate central point of the SSSI. In the case of large, linear, or composite sites, this may not represent the location where a feature occurs within the SSSI.

© Crown copyright 2008. All rights reserved. Scottish Natural Heritage 100017908 (2008) DESCRIPTION: Biological St Cyrus and Kinnaber Links SSSI is one of the richest and most important sites for wild plants and animals on the coast of North East Scotland. The varied site consists of sand dunes, lichen rich dune heathland, foreshore, river estuary, saltmarsh, and cliffs composed of basalts and andesites of Old Red Sandstone age. The cliffs have

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weathered to produce a moderately base-rich soil, and the site enjoys relatively long hours of sunshine for the east coast of Scotland. Plants The above factors have combined to produce a diverse flora with over 300 species of vascular plant recorded. The area is particularly noted for the occurrence of plant species at or near the northern limit of their range in Britain. These include Nottingham catchfly Silene nutans var. smithiana, hairy violet Viola hirta, wild licquorice Astragalus glycophyllos and henbane Hyoscyamus niger which are found on the cliffs and along the banks of a disused railway cutting excavated into the Old Red Sandstone inland from the cliff edge. Other examples include maiden pink Dianthus deltoides found on the dunes, and clustered bellflower Campanula glomerata which is widespread. The extensive sand dune system is dominated by typical dune forming plant species such as marram grass Ammophila arenaria, with lyme grass Elymus arenarius, restharrow Ononis repens and lady’s bedstraw Galium verum being widespread. Meadow saxifrage Saxifraga granulata and northern marsh orchid Dactylorhiza purpurella are more locally distributed. Further inland sweet vernal grass Anthoxanthum odoratum, red fescue Festuca rubra, sand sedge Carex arenaria and thyme Thymus praecox become more abundant. A small colony of the uncommon primrose/cowslip hybrid Primula vulgaris x vera is found at the base of the cliffs. On Kinnaber Links the dune ridge is backed by a large area of lichen rich dune heath. This represents a late stage in the succession of the dune system and is a community of restricted distribution on the east coast of Scotland. The community is dominated by heather Calluna vulgaris with bell heather Erica cinerea and crowberry Empetrum nigrum, and is particularly notable for its rich and luxuriant lichen flora. Over 70 species are recorded including 27 species of reindeer moss Cladonia spp. A well developed lichen flora on pebbles also occurs in this area, including Cetraria pinastri and Umbilicaria polyphylla which are both nationally rare. The diversity of habitats and species is increased by the North Esk river with its dynamic estuary frequently changing the surrounding pattern of sand dunes and shingle. The remains of a saltmarsh occurs within a former channel although salt water now only reaches it infrequently. This is the only saltmarsh in Kincardine and Deeside district. Birds The bird population is also of importance with about 60 regular breeding species. A fluctuating colony of little terns nests on the sand and shingle above high water mark. A peak of 158 pairs bred in 1974 (the second highest in Britain for that year) although numbers have recently been much reduced. The little tern is one of Britain’s rarest and most vulnerable breeding birds. Invertebrates

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The floristic diversity is paralleled by a rich and remarkable invertebrate fauna. The site is one of the few localities in Scotland to have all five species of Scottish grasshopper and cricket, and possesses the most diverse moth and butterfly fauna of any site in Eastern Scotland. The moth fauna is especially rich with many species such as the shore wainscot Mythimna litoralis and Adaina microdactyla being at the northern end of their British range. Other moth species are at the northern end of their range and are also very uncommon in Scotland, for example Metzneria lapella and Cochylidia rupicola, and St Cyrus is the only known Scottish locality for Reuttia subocellea. The site is also one of the few Scottish localities for the small blue butterfly Cupido minimus. REMARKS St Cyrus is a Nature Conservation Review Site. A part of the site was declared under section 19 of the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949 as a National Nature Reserve on 28/9/62.

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st cyrus nature reserve

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