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Songs of the Savannah

If it is unbridled adventure you crave, Tanzania gives you a heady mix of sun, safari and surf. Hi! escapes to this natural paradise for a slice of life in the wild, where predator and prey co-habit with equanimity, albeit at different ends of the food chain.

Flying in from Mumbai, we caught a sliver of ethereal Tanzania from our little airplane windows—cushioned in clouds at 5,896m was the snowcapped blue peak of Mount Kilimanjaro. This was not the Africa I had imagined, and I knew right then that this would be a trip of surprises. This East African country belies all your apprehensions of the continent—friendly faces, a languid pace and a pleasant nip in the air greet us, as we roll past small towns, villages and green fields of wheat and sunflowers.

With a host of national parks, game reserves and conservation areas to boast of, it is soon evident that Tanzania takes its wildlife very seriously. Without much ado, we are driven by Bushbuck Safaris to our first destination, the Tarangire National Park. The drive in gave us our first glimpse of wild Africa: as lissome giraffes looped around unperturbed for a solitary nibble, herds of wildebeest dotted the landscape and zebras lined the dirt road, unmindful of the SUV going by. The swirls of red dust and gravelly terrain did nothing to dampen the surge of excitement on finding ourselves out of the airport and directly into what seemed like a show on the National Geographic channel.

Af te r what was a fasc ina t ing introduction to this untouched haven, we reached the Tarangire Sopa Lodge located inside the reserve—a contemporary-rustic setting that ensures comfort minus the superfluous extravagances. Accommodation in Tanzania’s parks and reserves comprises mainly of unrated lodges that are designed in keeping with a back-to-nature philosophy—so while you can rest assured of a comfy, four poster canopied bed, air conditioning and hot

With a host of untouched national parks, flourishing game reserves & conservation areas to boast of, it is pretty evident that Tanzania takes its wildlife very seriously

animals off kilter in any way. This also meant that a pair of binoculars is a must-have to help spot those elusive species of wildlife that are often camouflaged in grass and bramble, or perched up high, like the leopard we spotted up in a tree catching his breath and his precious kill—a miniature antelope called dik-dik.

After what was an eventful afternoon filled with animal sightings, we drove on to the fabled plains of the Serengeti National Park eager to see more of the Big Five, namely the lion, rhino, African elephant, Cape buffalo and leopard. As vast as a small country, the size of the

Serengeti itself is intimidating, let alone its inhabitants. With barely two days at our disposal here, most of our fellow travellers especially the avid shutterbugs were keen to make the most of it, training their lens for the furtive big cats.

The dusty Savannah landscape is strewn with thick Baobab trees that have been nicknamed upside-down trees for their peculiar shape. Some of these wide girth trees have large, gaping holes called Poacher’s Hideouts that were once drilled by poachers and used as a lookout while hunting animals—a remnant of an ugly past.

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shower, there is no television or room service. It takes your urban sensibilities a while to get accustomed to the still silence that is only broken by the chirping of crickets or the distant roar of a lion.

Guests would do well to stay indoors after dark or venture out only accompanied by the hotel escort, who stands watch outside. The Tarangire property is run over by Cape Hare, large rabbit-like mammals that are preyed on by cheetahs, and we were warned that it isn’t uncommon to find a cheetah stalking the area outside your cottage for a late night snack—definitely a situation no guest would like to step into.

Wherever we turned we were constantly met with friendly jambos (hello) and asantes (thank you) from the locals. We got a taste of the infectious Tanzanian joie de vivre at dinner, when every member of the lodge kitchen from the head chef to the bus boys and waitresses snaked out in a single file singing and clapping, with the leader of the chain holding up high a flaming torch. Jambo Bwana they sang, as they shimmied and shuffled through tables with innate rhythm and style, much to the delight of their guests who stopped mid-meal to watch this entertaining spectacle. If our desserts still hadn’t arrived, nobody seemed to mind. Says Tanzania tourism promoter Jilesh Babla, “The Tanzanian people are very mild, hospitable and polite. It is unusual or rare for you to see or hear of a tourist being robbed, manhandled, molested…. This is a very safe country for tourists. There are very few countries today where there is so much beauty and peace.”

While our fellow travellers woke up to find elephants outside their rooms returning from the nearest watering hole—the lodge swimming pool, the rest of us were content to wolf down our breakfasts and resume our Tarangire adventure. Strict laws and regulations govern the Tanzanian wildlife experience, and nobody is allowed to drive off the road for a closer view of the animals, step out of their vehicles or throw the

“The Tanzanian people are very mild, hospitable and polite. It is unusual or rare to see or hear of a tourist

being robbed, manhandled, molested…. There are very few countries today where there is so much beauty

and peace.”—Jilesh Babla, Tanzania tourism promoter

The suite cottages allow you an unobstructed view

of the migratory route, and guests need only step out into the balcony to witness scores of wildebeest and zebras make their annual

migratory journey between the Serengeti and the

Masai Mara

Strict laws & regulations govern the Tanzanian wildlife experience. Nobody is allowed to drive off the road for a closer view of the animals or step out of their vehicles

Ostriches & warthogs make unusual travel companions, as they take to the dusty red road inside the reserve

While the lissome giraffes prefer a solitary nibble, the gazelles know there’s safety in numbers

The inhabitants of the Savannah: the plains of the Serengeti are teeming with herds of zebras & wildebeest

As the day wore on, disappointment clouded our drive through the Serengeti for the big cats still evaded us, making a rare appearance only in the distance, hidden in the grass and shadows. But just when we had given up, we received our Serengeti surprise—a young lioness napping in the trees, not uncommon for the tree lions of the Serengeti. As delirious tourists snapped away and the vehicles kept whirring back and forth for a closer view, the lioness stirred awake and stood up calling others of her pride. It wasn’t long before three other lionesses were spotted approaching from behind our vehicles…making this the closest we got to any of the big cats. A moment everybody saved for posterity.

From the plains of Serengeti we began our drive upwards to the rim of the Ngorongoro crater. Most accept the theory that a volcano exploded and collapsed on itself creating this unique geological orifice that is today often regarded as the eighth natural wonder of the world. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the conservation area is home to a host of wildlife that includes the endangered black rhino. As we stopped for a photo op, we also got a chance to interact with the masai folk peddling trinkets and local handicrafts. These semi-nomadic people have steadfastly held onto their culture and ethnic traditions despite the inroads of urbanisation. Clad in their trademark red plaid or cobalt blue clothes, adorned in beads and amulets, with wooden staffs, they make a striking picture but are reluctant to be photographed.

On reaching the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge, we had to brace ourselves for the dramatic fall in the temperature and a spectacular view. Here, the suite cottages allow you an unobstructed view of the migratory route, and guests need only step out into the balcony to witness scores of wildebeest and zebras make their annual migratory journey between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. The recalcitrant weather forced us to forgo our bonfire barbeque overlooking the misty plains and settle for a cosy dinner at the lodge restaurant, where continental, African and Indian fare all made their way on to our table. With a significant Indian presence in the country, Indian food was

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available everywhere we went—which would prove reassuring to vegetarian travellers.

Venturing into the seemingly desolate Ngorongoro crater the next morning, we were surprised to find the place teeming with zebras, gazelles, wildebeest, flamingos, secretary birds, ostriches and warthogs. The black rhino may have kept his distance, preferring to graze in peace rather than pose for a bunch of eager beaver tourists, but we were far from disappointed. Being whisked away in a mini charter plane from Arusha capped off our safari thrills and brought us to the island city of Zanzibar.

Stone Town in Zanzibar, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is defined by its architecture that reveals a conflux of African, Persian, Indian and European influences. With its narrow alleyways crammed with handicraft shops, local art stalls, pretty boutique hotels, a buzzing market place and ornate brass-spiked Indian-style doors, it throbs with a life of its own. The last place in the world that practised slave trade before being abolished by the British in 1890, Zanzibar oozes history from every little nook and cranny.

And if it is history that enthrals you, Stone Town’s old

We were warned that it isn’t uncommon to find a cheetah

stalking the area outside your cottage for a late night snack—definitely a situation

no guest would like to step into

The last place in the world that practised slave trade before being abolished by the

British in 1890, Zanzibar oozes history from every little nook and cranny. Stone Town’s

old slave market that has stood witness to a painful past is worth a visit proving to be an

emotional experience for many

One of Africa’s Big Five, the Cape buffalo is as dangerous as the others of its ilk

Herds of elephants run amuck across the Savannah, uprooting anything in their path

A young lioness napping in the trees, not uncommon for the tree lions of the Serengeti

The colourful alleys and bylanes in Stone Town are lined with souvenir & handicraft stalls & art shops

One of Stone Town’s many pretty, boutique hotels

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slave market that has stood witness to a painful past is worth a visit. Though remodelled into an art gallery, the former slave market still houses two cells where slaves were once held captive. Rough, dark and cramped with three mere slits for windows, each of these rooms once held between 25 and 35 people, unimaginable considering how the 13 of us struggled to fit in. Sitting in this grim, claustrophobic prison cell, festooned with rusty chains, while our guide described the lives of the men enslaved and ruthlessly whipped before sale, proved to be an emotional

experience for many. Like most island destinations, Zanzibar

lulls you with its balmy breeze and the sounds of the sea, coercing you into exploring its cafés, spice stalls and heena parlours at a languid pace. The illustrious Africa House that attracts tourists and the who’s who of the city, the House of Wonders that is now the National Museum of Tanzania, the Zanzibar Fort with its amphitheatre...are some of the local attractions. Resorts like the Neptune Pwani Beach Resort and Spa with its plush cottage suites that open out onto beautiful

talc beaches and aqua waters are ideal getaways. After the arduous safari trail, here you can swim, laze and indulge yourself before you head back home. Hakuna matata….

TexT & PhoTograPhS: aBIgaIl rodrIgueS

Fact FileFor more information, log on to:www.islandholidays.orgwww.sopalodges.comwww.bushbuckltd.com www.tanzaniatouristboard.com

Picturesque beachside cottages in Zanzibar The Anglican Cathedral of Christ in Stone Town

A masai man peddling trinkets in Ngorongoro A monument near Stone Town’s old slave market