8OntheTrail

The last remaining patch of rainforest in the tropical island of Sri Lanka

is a veritable - and occasionally challenging -treasure trove of fascinating endemisms

HEREGOOGLE EARTH COORDINATES HERE

The last remaining patch of rainforest in the tropical island of Sri Lanka

is a veritable - and occasionally challenging -treasure trove of fascinating endemisms

SINGING IN THE RAIN

SINHARAJA FOREST RESERVE

SINGING IN THE RAIN

SINHARAJA FOREST RESERVE

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Green forestlizard Calotescalotes, commonlyencountered inSinharajaNational Park. On the openingspread, anothericonic species ofthe Sinharajarainforest - a pairof the stunninglycamouflaged SriLankan frogmouthBatrachostomusmoniliger.

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TEXT BY ANDREA FERRARIPHOTOS BY ANDREA & ANTONELLA FERRARI

north, these waterways flow into theGin River on the southern boundary ofthe reserve and Kalu River via theNapola Dola, Koskulana Ganga andKudawa Ganga on the nor thernboundary. Annual rainfall over the last60 years has ranged from 3614 -5006mm with most of the precipitationduring the south-west monsoon (May-July) and the north-east monsoon(November - January), but such datacan be misleading, making theplanning of a visit an unpredictableventure. This is a very, very wet forest,which can only be explored on footand which often requires negotiatingmuddy ground and wading small,shallow streams despite the presenceof a good network of well-maintainedforest tracks. Be prepared - Sinharajacan be jealous of its wonders andtreasures (well, at least it was in ourcase - it never stopped raining whilewe visited, much to our annoyancesince too much rain will keep manyanimal species in constant hiding!),

ncompassing the last extensivepatch of primary lowland rainforest inSri Lanka, world-famous but little-visitedSinharaja Forest Reserve is situated inthe south-west lowland wet zone of theisland. More than 60% of the treesfound there are endemic, and many ofthem are considered rare. There ismuch endemic wildlife, especiallybirds, but the reserve is also home toover 50% of Sri Lanka's endemicspecies of mammals and butterflies, aswell as many kinds of insects, reptilesand rare amphibians. Covering anarea of 8,864 ha (about 11,000 haaccording to some sources and if onetakes the proposed reserve zones inconsideration) and ranging from analtitude of 300 to 1,170 meters, itconsists of 6,092 ha of Forest Reserveand 2,772 ha of Proposed ForestReserve. This narrow strip ofundulating terrain encompasses aseries of ridges and valleys that arecrisscrossed by an intricate network ofstreams. Draining to both the south and

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EGloriouslybeautiful, theGround orchidArundinagraminifolia is acommon sight inthe Sinharajasecondary forest.

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Anotherstrikingly beautifuland strictlyendemic speciesfrom the Sinharajawet forest - the Sri Lanka bluemagpie or Ceylonmagpie Urocissaornata.

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and expect having to pick lots ofblood-filled leeches from your tiredlimbs in the evening. It is worth thetrouble of course - but be prepared, aswildlife photography in a dark andvery wet rainforest full of leeches isanything but easy, and can often provefrustrating at the very least. But yes, it’sworth it - after all, Sri Lanka is home to830 endemic species, of which 217trees and woody climbers are found inthe lowland wet zone. Of these, 139(64%) have been recorded in thereserve, including 16 rare species.Faunal endemism is particularly highfor birds with 19 (95%) of 20 speciesrecorded in the reserve being endemicto Sri Lanka. Endemism amongmammals and butterflies is also greaterthan 50%. A number of threatened,endangered and/or rare speciesoccur within the reserve including SriLankan leopard Panthera parduskotiya, Indian elephant Elephasmaximus, endemic Purple-facedLangur Presbytis senex, Sri Lankawood pigeon Columba torringtoni,Green-bil led Coucal Centropuschlororrhynchus, Sri Lankan white-headed starling Sturnus senex, SriLanka blue magpie Urocissa ornata,Ashy-headed babbler Garrulaxcinereifrons and Sri Lankan broad-billed roller Eurystomus orientalis irisi.

continued on page 14 ›The strange

Hump-nosed lizardLyriocephalusscutatus is one moreextraordinarySinharaja endemic.

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The beautiful SriLankan pit viper,Ceylon pit viper orGreen pit viperTrimeresurustrigonocephalus isanother endemicspecies and canbe occasionallyobserved coiled inambush on lowbranches.

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A UNESCO WORLDHERITAGE SITE

Sinharaja has been designated aWorld Heritage Site by UNESCO as itis the last remaining and relativelyundisturbed patch of tropical humidevergreen forest in Sri Lanka. The florafound in the reserve is a relic ofGondwanaland, and it provides animportant component to our scientificunderstanding of continental drift andan outstanding site for the study of theprocesses of biological evolution. Ageological feature of considerableinterest is the presence of the Sinharajabasic zone, with the reserve locatedwithin the transition zone of twoimportant rock types characteristic ofSri Lanka; the south-western group andthe highland group. Endemism withinthe area is extremely high. Protectingthe last viable remnant of Sri Lanka’stropical lowland rainforest, Sinharaja ishome to at least 139 endemic plantspecies within two main types of forest:remnants of Dipterocarpus in the valleysand on the lower slopes, andsecondary forest and scrub where theoriginal forest cover has been removed.

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A tiny andunidentifiedplanthopperprobably belongingto the familyDictyopharidaeor Tropiduchidae.

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Left, Lanternbug Pyropsmaculatus, anendemic species;right top,Tree-climbingfreshwater crabPerbrinckiascansor, anotherendemic; right bottom,wasp-like mothSyntomoidesimaon.

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Green forest lizardCalotes calotes.

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Antonellaphotographing a male

Hump-nosed lizardLyriocephalus scutatus, a

rainforest-dwellingendemic species.

Sixteen of the endemic plant specieswithin the reserve are considered rare,including the endemic palmsLoxococcus rupicola and Atalantiarotundifolia. Faunal endemism is alsohigh, particularly for mammals, birdsand butter flies, exceeding 50%.Nineteen (95%) of Sri Lanka’s 20endemic birds are present in theproperty, which is also home to leopardand Indian elephant, both of which arethreatened species. So, according toUNESCO criteria, Sinharaja ForestReserve forms a sufficiently largeconservation unit for the in-situconservation of rare and endangeredspecies while sustaining the on-goingbiological evolutionary processes forwhich it was inscribed. It is surroundedby 13 other adjacent natural forestareas that provide an added layer ofprotection to the property, whoseboundaries however require furtherdefinition and demarcation. Efforts are

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Left, Pitcherplant Nepenthesdistillatoria;right, male andfemale SriLankanfrogmouthBatrachostomusmoniliger.

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A tiny Ant-mimicPraying mantisOdontomantis sp.nymph.

Left, Sri Lankan orBrown-patchedKangaroo lizardOtocryptiswiegmanni,another endemic;right, male Stag beetleOdontolabisnigrita.

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also being made by the managementagency to fur ther enhance theconservation status of the reservethrough regulation of land usesoccurring in the area surrounding theproperty, in the hope of further reducingthe impact of intensive land use on thevalues of Sinharaja. Illicit timber felling,mining for gems and poaching (bylocals and by foreign reptile andamphibian collectors for the exotic petmarket) continue to be of concern withregards to the impacts on the valuesand integrity of the reserve, but the highlevel of public support for natureconservation and the large number ofgovernment bodies involved inregulation and proposal approvalluckily results in strong opposition toresource exploitation proposals.

CURRENT STATUS ANDPAST HISTORY

Noted as a national heritagewilderness area on October 21st1988, the majority of the area withinthe property was originally declared aforest reserve on May 3rd 1875,providing a long history of protection.The property is afforded the highestlevel of legal protection under theNational Heritage and WildernessArea Act of Sri Lanka and almost all theperipheral natural forests along theboundary have already been declared

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Flower Prayingmantis Creobrotersp. nymph.

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Tiger beetleCalochroadiscrepans - a verysmall but ferociouspredator of therainforest floor.

23Top left, Sharp-snouted shrub frogPseudophilautuscuspis, endemic;top right, Fulgoridplanthopper,familyNogodinidae;bottom right,unidentifiedgrasshopper;bottom left,Freshwater crab, familyParathelphusidae.

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Large adult male Greenforest lizard Calotes calotes.

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as conservation forests or reservedforests under the Forest Ordinance. Thevalues encompassed by the propertywere further recognised when it wasdeclared a Biosphere Reserve in April1978 and subsequently inscribed onthe World Heritage. The managementplans for the property, prepared in1985/86 and 1992/94, emphasizeconservation, scientific research, bufferzone management, benefit sharing,and community participation.Sinharaja is provided with the highestlevel of legal protection under theNational Heritage Wilderness Area Actand a high level of environmentalawareness of the local community isextremely helpful in implementingmanagement plan prescriptions. Forestdependency of local communities isvery low and maintaining this healthypartnership with local communities isthe main strategy to ensure futureprotection of this property. Historicallyprotected as a result of its inaccessibilityand steep, hilly terrain, the ForestDepartment prioritizes protection of thereserve over development pressuresand resource extraction. Visitornumbers remain low with entry bypermit only. Threats to the values andintegrity of the property primarily comefrom encroaching cultivation,particularly along the southern

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Sri Lankan junglefowl Gallus lafayettii.

26Top left, Besra Accipiter virgatus;

top right, Spot-winged thrushGeokichla spiloptera, endemic;

bottom right, Crimson marsh glider

Trithemis aurora; bottom left,

Spiny crab orb weaver Phoroncidia thwaitesii.

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boundary. Development undertakenoutside the property indirectly impactsthe site through road developmentswhich subsequently open up routesand entry points into the property,facilitating illegal logging and removalof resources, with illegal gem miningalso posing a threat. The traditional useof forest products is now restricted toareas outside the boundaries.Sadly,low staffing levels hinder patrolling,and a lack of funding is a barrier to theeffective, long-term management of thearea. The management agency, the SriLankan Forestry Department, hasdesignated the management ofSinharaja a high priority, allocatingfunds according to the priorities spelledout in the management plan and on-going management programmes.

ECOLOGY ANDEVOLUTIONARY NOTES

Also referred as Sinharaja ForestReserve, the location of the SinharajaRain Forest is in the South Western partof the island, bordering three districtsof the island, namely Galle, Mataraand Ratnapura. The total area of

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Geometrid Moth Berta sp.

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Far left, landsnail Satiella sp.,an endemicspecies; center,Hump-nosed lizardLyriocephalusscutatus; right,Green vine snakeAhaetulla nasuta.

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The bane ofSinharaja - aharmless butbothersome leechwaiting for its preyto pass by arainforest trail.

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Praying mantisCreobroter sp.;center, juvenileGreen forest lizardCalotes calotes;right, Sri Lankankeelback water snakeXenochrophisasperrimus.

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Left, Sri Lankablue magpie orCeylon magpieUrocissa ornata; right, Purple-facedlangurTrachypithecusvetulus, anendemic species.

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Sinharaja Forest Reserve is very small:about 21 km lengthwise, with aminimum width of 3 km and amaximum width of 7 km throughout.The Rakwana Massif with its mountainranges is part of the area covered bySinharaja rain forest: the highestmountain peak found there is 1170 mthigh and has eight peaks over 600 mt.This tormented topography affects thedefinition of vegetation zones, as theSinharaja Forest is considered to be aTropical Rainforest in the areas below1000 mts. and a Sub-Montane Forestabove 1000 mts. According to severalsources the plant density inside theforest is 240,000 plants per hectarewith 340 timber species of commercialvalue. Out of these 192 are endemicto Sri Lanka, and 19 out of theseendemic species are found only withinSinharaja Forest. The formation of sucha diverse and highly specific rainforestmakes for an interesting story. Thepresent rainforests in the world are anevolution of the earlier rainforestsdating back to 150 - 200 million years.About 140 million years ago, duringthe Paleozoic era, a part of land fromthe Southern hemisphere calledGondwanaland - where present dayIndia and Sri Lanka also were situated- started its slow process of separatingfrom the main land. About 55 millionyears back - during the Cretaceous - the

continued on page 34 ›Sinharaja can

only be exploredby walking.

33Top left, Sharp-snouted shrub frogPseudophilautuscuspis; top right,Sri Lanka Short-horned shrub frogPseudophilautussingu. Bottomright, Asian grassfrog Ferjervayalimnocharis;bottom left, Indian Green frogEuphlyctishexadactylus.

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Deccan plate with Sri Lanka and Indiaseparated from the Southernhemisphere, started drifting towardsthe equator and joined with theNorthern hemisphere called Laurussia.Due to this new environment, the lifeforms of that landmass started toundergo changes to evolve their owncharacteristics, making way to uniquebotanical and biological species. Later- around 20 million years ago - SriLanka separated from the Deccanplate. Today the rainforest in Sri Lankais confined to its southern part, nearestto the equator. Forests in other parts ofthe island differ much from Sinharaja,as tropical rainforests need to havethree main factors in common. First,there should be bright sunlight, secondthere needs to be a high rainfall,distributed all along the year and third,a high temperature, which keeps theregion very humid. Only Sinharajaand few other scattered forests of lesserextent in the southwestern part of SriLanka fulfi l l the above criteria.Moreover, Sri Lanka was an

Sri Lankan or Brown-patched Kangaroo lizardOtocryptis wiegmanni, an endemic species.

continued on page 37 ›

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The beautifulPurple-faced langurTrachypithecusvetulus found in theSinharaja rainforestis an endemicspecies.

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Grizzled giantsquirrel Ratufamacrouramelanochra,another endemic.

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agricultural country since 4th century BCand much of the land in the northern andcentral part of the country, where thereare forest covers now, had been undercultivation till around the 10th centuryAD, so the age of the forest cover theredates back only for around a thousandyears. Taking note of the above, we nowcan finally add that the Sinharaja forestcover receives between 3000-6000 mmof rain throughout the year and has aminimum rainfall of over 200 mm, evenduring non-monsoon periods. The meantemperature is between 18-27 degreescentigrade with a humidity of 75% -90%, and only a faint sunshine reachesthe ground layer of the forest totalling ameager 5% - 15% of sunlight. As wealready said, it’s a very, very wet forest- but believe us, despite the leeches, atthe end of a long day you’ll be happilysinging in the rain! .

Left, one of thecountless brooks and streamscrisscrossing therainforest landscape of Sinharaja; right, Sri Lanka bluemagpie or Ceylonmagpie Urocissaornata.

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crisscrossed by a large numberof clear-water streams

and brooks, mostly sandy and very shallow.

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Left, anundentified forestplant in bloom;right, the near-invisible shape of a Phasmid stickinsect camouflagedon a tree’s bark.

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Due to its highambient humidity, the

forest of Sinharaja ishome to a great varietyof land snails, many ofwhich are difficult to

recognize for the non-specialist.

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The rainforestlandscape in Sinharaja offers

a great variety of beautifulspots which are ideal for a

brief pause - despite theharmless threat posed by the

ever-present leeches!

Left, Sri Lankanor Brown-patchedKangaroo lizardOtocryptiswiegmanni,endemic; right, unidentifiedgiant millipede.High ambienthumidity is quiteapparent in thislatter image.

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Sri Lankan junglefowlGallus lafayettii.

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Many of the waterfallsand rocky streams in Sinharaja

would be a challenge tonegotiate - besides, walking in

the Reserve is restricted to a network

of well-marked forest trails.

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Left, Sri Lankan or Brown-patched Kangaroo lizard

Otocryptis wiegmanni. Right, a mosquito feeds

undetected among the nuchalscales of an endemic Hump-nosed lizard

Lyriocephalus scutatus.

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The unmistakablepitfall traps of the pitcher plantNepenthesdistillatoria are a common sight in the more open spots of Sinharaja’srainforest.