shop copenhagen ss14
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AMAGERTORV 4 COPENHAGEN – COPENHAGEN AIRPORT – SØNDERGADE 1 AARHUS
WWW.GEORGJENSEN.COM +45 70 12 34 20
F USION C OL L E C T ION
Welcome to the Centre of Modern Design
Enter the department store Illums Bolighus and enjoy an exclu-sive world of quality and world-famous international and Danish design. On four foors of inspiring displays you will fnd only the very fnest in exquisite design, kitchenware, tableware, lamps, carpets, textiles, furniture and fashion.
10, AMAGERTORV · DK-1160 COPENHAGEN K
PHONE +45 33 14 19 41 · WWW.ILLUMSBOLIGHUS.COM
Editor’s Letter
10
Emma Cheevers
Welcome to Copenhagen
This SHOP guide will help you discover all
that Copenhagen has to ofer, including the
best luxury department stores, boutiques and
concept stores, as well as recommendations
for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.
We also discover Denmark’s thriving menswear
scene (page 44) and Scandinavia’s pioneering
eco-designers (page 50). The new Global Blue
mobile app is a great way to fnd the very latest
on your chosen destination – there are more
details in our news section on page 41.
As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free Shopping
market leader, SHOP publishes essential
guides to over 40 destinations across Europe
and Asia. For the very latest information, visit
our website, globalblue.com, or email me at
[email protected]. Claiming your tax
savings is even easier with the new Global Blue
Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all
the details on the Global Blue website.
Athens and Thessaloniki
Austria
Barcelona
Belgium
Berlin
Buenos Aires
Cologne
Copenhagen
Cyprus
Чехия
Düsseldorf
Estonia
Frankfurt
French Riviera
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Руководство Германия
Gothenburg
Hamburg
Hanover
Helsinki Area
Holland
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Istanbul
Italy
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Lebanon
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Oslo
Paris
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Prague
Riga
Rimini and Riccione
Rome
Singapore
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Stuttgart
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Vienna
Vilnius
ILLU
ST
RAT
ION
: pA
UL
x j
Oh
NS
ON
/globalblue
/globalblue/globalblue
@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue
@GlobalBlue
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Collage the Shop Illum Ground Floor
Oestergade 52Copenhagen C+45 3318 2788www.collagetheshop.com
PILE
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ÆD
E
ANTONIGADE
HøjbroPlads
KØ
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AG
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GA
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B
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ME
RH
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M S
TRØGET
STRØGET
ØSTERGADE
CO
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AG
E T
HE
SH
OP
●
Contributors
14
globalblue.com
David Hellqvist
Swedish-born David Hellqvist is
the online editor at Port Magazine
and editor of Varon Magazine.
He also writes about fashion,
lifestyle and culture for the
Independent, Man About Town
and T Magazine. In this edition
of SHOP Copenhagen, he writes
about Scandinavia’s pioneering
eco-fashion businesses.
Harveen Ghattaure
Harveen Ghattaure, who
graduated in graphic design from
the University of Derby, has been
SHOP’s artworking assistant since
2011. When she’s not at work, she
can often be found sweating it out
in a Bikram yoga class or reading
Batman comics. She adores
British brand All Saints and wants
to own her own stables one day.
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: JA
me
S G
RA
hA
m
James Graham
Illustrator James Graham created
the cover for this season’s SHOP
Copenhagen, inspired by our
feature on Danish menswear on
page 44. His simple, graphic style
makes him a great choice for this
edition’s cover, which shows a
grid of well-dressed men standing
to attention. James, who lives
and works in both London and
New York, has previously created
artwork for Esquire magazine
(UK), The New York Times and
Stella McCartney, among others.
Read more about our illustrations
at globalblue.com/covers.
Page 44
STAND TO ATTENTION
Danish menswear takes
centre stage
ØSTERGADE 38 . 1100 COPENHAGEN K
DENMARK . T +45 33 11 55 55 . BIRGER-CHRISTENSEN.COM
Prada
Miu Miu
Céline
Valentino
Saint Laurent
Givenchy
Moncler
Lanvin
SCANDINAVIAS LEADING
F U R & FA S H I O N H O U S E
Shop Floor
18
Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every
care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after
publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.
All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue
E DI TOR I A L
Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers
PU BL I SH I NG
PublisherJames Morris
Managing editor Sally McIlhone
Cover illustratorJames Graham
ContributorsDavid Hellqvist, Josie Thaddeus Johns
Production editorCaterina Mazzolai
Assistant production editorRuairidh Pritchard
Features editorStephen Doig
City guide and lifestyle editorVerity Hogan
Fashion and news editorDominique Fenn
Assistant fashion and market editorXimena Daneri
Assistant fashion and news editorsHannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles
Fashion assistantGemma Latham
Editorial internsIndia Block, Sammy Ha
Chief sub-editorHester Lacey
Copy editorsSue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew
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ArtworkerAdam Dhaliwal
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Chinese assistant editor Hongying Xu
Chinese fashion editorJiafei Fei
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Chinese translatorsBingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin, Jun Liu, Shin Yin, Yi Zhang
Chinese internDaniel Huang
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R e p e a t h a p p i n e s s d a i l y
Contents
22
50 Green Light
Denmark and its Scandinavian
neighbours are at the forefront
of sustainable fashion.
David Hellqvist meets some
pioneering designers
58 Living Free
Stephen Doig takes a stroll
through the magical enclave
of Christiania, Copenhagen’s
unique ‘freetown’
E x pE r i E nCE
64 Raising The Bar
Copenhagen’s cocktail bars
ofer innovative menus,
unique concepts and
engaging atmospheres,
says Verity Hogan
70 Stay In Style
SHOp’s guide to the world’s
most exclusive hotels
76 My Weekend
SHOp shares the highlights
of an indulgent short break
in Copenhagen
Gu i DE
79 Maps and guides to the
key shopping areas of
Copenhagen, plus SHOp’s
unique view of the city’s sights
Above: Burberry's spring/summer Petal bag comes in a range of prety pastels
prODuC tS
26 Check Out
SHOp selects a standout piece
from Copenhagen this season
28 My Favourites
Designer Maxjenny Forslund
reveals her top tips for spring/
summer 2014
32 Products
Key looks for the season,
from fashion and footwear to
jewellery and accessories
36 Street Style
Our pick of the best dressed at
Copenhagen Fashion Week
n E WS
38 Shop Window
One store not to be missed
in Copenhagen
40 News
Seasonal updates on shops,
services and new products
F E at u r E S
44 Cover Story:
Let’s Hear It For The Boys
Denmark’s menswear is
rapidly gaining a worldwide
reputation. ruairidh
pritchard discovers the
secrets of this Copenhagen
success story
p.26
Skagen Denmark Concept Stores:
Strøget, Vimmelskafet 42, CPH
ILLUM, Ostergade 52, CPH
Sondergade 42, Aarhus
Sct. Laurentii vej 6, Skagen
www.skagen.com
Contents
24
94 My City
Henning Kern of jewellery
brand Dyrberg/Kern
shares his Copenhagen
recommendations
E SSE N T I A L S
96 How To Shop Tax Free
The simple steps to saving
money on your shopping
T R A NSL AT IONS
99 Русский105 中文
109 日本語翻訳
SOu v E N I R
114 The essential item to
bring home
globalblue.com
DESTINATION & buyINg guIDES
Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.
FASHION WEEKS & STREET STyLE
Follow us online for the latest from Europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.
DAILy SHOppINg NEWS
We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.
WIN mONTHLy COmpETITIONS
We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.
ENgLISH | Русский | 中文
The latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com
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26 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
Check Out
wish. We’re particularly taken
with these two, in rose pink and
lavender, though the range is so
vast and so lovely it’s hard to make
a choice. As with everything from
British heritage brand Burberry,
the craftsmanship is exquisite,
and the design guaranteed to give
maximum impact. hl
Burberry Petal bags,
8,500DKK each,
Burberry, Østergade 21-23,
1101 Copenhagen,
+45 3336 6896, burberry.com
* for map go to page 90
FLORAL FANTASY
Burberry Prorsum’s spring/
summer collection is awash with
soft pastels and feminine detailing,
and these adorable foral clutches
are set to be absolute must-
haves. Soft and slouchy, they are
artfully embellished with 3D
fowers, one of the biggest trends
of the season, and are as bright
and summery as anyone could
Ø S T E R G A D E 2 6
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
Maxjenny, an exciting young Danish label based
in Copenhagen, produces colourful womenswear
that focuses on innovation, wearability and
function. Designer Maxjenny Forslund has
won acclaim for her artistic prowess and
her ability to translate this into the world of
fashion. She shares a few of her favourite
places in Copenhagen with Hannah Lewis
maxjenny.com
My Favourites: Maxjenny Forslund
28 | PRODUC TS
2. ‘Take your
friends out for
the night and
start at Lidkøb,
a great bar with
an international
atmosphere’
Lidkøb,Vesterbrogade 72B, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3311 2010, lidkoeb.dk
1. ‘Eat lunch
at Raw on
Oehlenschlægersgade,
it has a super-nice
interior and fantastic
food in a small and
very personal place’
SimpleRaw, Oehlenschlægersgade 12, 1663 Copenhagen, +45 3535 3005, simpleraw.dk
3. ‘I would love to
buy more jewellery
from EABurns.
I love the style –
it’s so rock ‘n’ roll!’
EABurns
necklace, from
397DKK, Iko Iko, Blågårdsgade 31C, 2200 Copenhagen, +45 5282 4887, eaburns.com
1
SHOP | 29
4. ‘The Lêlê
Street Kitchen on
Vesterbrogade is a
cool, graphic place
and for Vietnamese
street food it’s
the best’
Lêlê Street Kitchen,
Vesterbrogade 56, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3322 7134, lele.dk
globalblue.com
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5. ‘In the summer,
fea markets in
Copenhagen are
simply the best way to
discover great items’
5
4
3
2
Kinga Burza is one of eight ESSENCE COLLECTION ambassadors,
representing JOY.
Discover at Pandora.net
Flagship Store: Amagertorv 18-20, Copenhagen
Illum, Copenhagen . Fisketorvet, Copenhagen . CPH Airport, Kastrup
Express the essence of youNew bracelet and charms collection
32 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
PARALLEL
LINES
Stylish, simple and superbly
fattering, stripes are where
it’s at this season
1. Mulberry bag, 19,000DKK,
Mulberry, Østergade 13,
1100 Copenhagen, +45 3336 6878,
mulberry.com
2. Weekday MTWTFSS vest,
500DKK, Weekday, Amagertorv 33,
1160 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1512,
weekday.com
3. Monki ring, 60DKK, Monki,
Købmagergade 3, 1150 Copenhagen,
+45 3312 8363, monki.com
4. By Malene Birger skirt, 3,499DKK,
By Malene Birger, Antonigade 10,
1106 Copenhagen, +45 3543 2233,
bymalenebirger.com
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www.kaufmann.dk
Strøget · Nygade 2-4 · Copenhagen
34 | PRODUCTS
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
ON SAFARI
Sand, tan and khaki are perfect for the urban jungle
1. Cos shorts, 390DKK, Cos,
Østergade 33-35, 1160 Copenhagen,
+45 3697 8881, cosstores.com
2. Louis Vuitton laptop sleeve,
5,150DKK, Louis Vuitton,
Amagertorv 2, 1160 Copenhagen,
+45 3315 1022, louisvuitton.com
3. Bang & Olufsen portable speaker,
5,495DKK, Bang & Olufsen,
Østergade 18, 1100 Copenhagen,
+45 3311 1415, bang-olufsen.com
4. Bottega Veneta briefcase,
price on request, Bottega Veneta,
Ny Østergade 1, 1101 Copenhagen,
+45 3336 6887, bottegaveneta.com
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SHOP | 35
globalblue.com
5. Triwa watch, 1,295DKK,
Urban Room, Guldbergsgade 11,
2200 Copenhagen, +45 3512 1111,
triwa.com
6. Sandqvist wallet, 499DKK, Flavour,
Skindergade 19, 1159 Copenhagen,
+45 3332 8583, sandqvist.net
7. Acne jacket, 3,700DKK, Acne,
Pilestræde 40, 1112 Copenhagen,
+45 3393 0090, acnestudios.com
8. Gucci shoes, 3,895DKK, Gucci,
Østergade 46, 1100 Copenhagen,
+45 3336 6883, gucci.com
6
7
8
7
5
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
Street Style
Staying true to the
classic monochrome
uniform, visitors
to Copenhagen
Fashion Week
let their accessories
take centre stage.
We picked our
best dressed and
among them, we
spotted Acne,
Givenchy and Louis
Vuitton handbags
– luxurious and
the perfect fnal
touch to chic yet
simple looks
36 | ST R E E T ST Y L E
SHOP
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globalblue.com
SHOP | 37
38 | NEWS
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
Shop Window
such as Adidas special editions,
chic clothing from brands such as
Céline and Peter Pilotto, cofee-
table books, perfume, jewellery,
headphones, even skateboards and
artwork are all displayed in this
airy space on the corner of Store
Regnegade and Gammel Mønt.
It’s very likely you’ll be tempted
to make a purchase for yourself
too. We defy anyone to visit and
not fnd something they just can’t
live without. gl
Storm, Store Regnegade 1,
1110 Copenhagen,
+45 3393 0014,
stormfashion.dk
* for map go to page 90
PERFECT STORM
An essential stop for any in-the-
know, design-conscious globetrot-
ter, Copenhagen’s Storm concept
store is renowned for its carefully
curated selection of on-trend lux-
ury goods and is the ideal spot to
pick up a present. Storm has done
all the hard work for you, present-
ing only the very best selection of
the current trends. It’s surpris-
ing how much there is to discover
in this small but delightful fashion
and lifestyle store. Urban footwear
Visit our shop in the center
of Copenhagen, just close to
“Strøget” and Jorcks Passage.
PROFESSIONAL AND CLASSIC CAMERAS
Skindergade 41 1159 Copenhagen K TEL +45 33 14 12 15
WWW.PHOTOGRAFICA.COM [email protected]
. .
.
“We are suppliers of a broad range
of quality cameras and accesories
for both the professional and the
demanding amateur photographer.”
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
40 | N E WS
LOCAL SECRET
The past 20 years have seen wo-
menswear brand Munthe, founded
in Denmark in 1994, go from
strength to strength. A strong fa-
vourite with Copenhagen natives,
the label is loved for its clever blend
of innovation and classic style.
Inspired by her European trav-
els, designer Naje Munthe takes
inspiration from everything she
sees, from art and literature to the
changing Scandinavian seasons.
The current collection uses bright
prints to great efect, contrasting
busy patterns with the clean, sim-
ple lines that Munthe has become
known for. hl
Munthe,
Grønnegade 10,
1107 Copenhagen,
+45 3332 0312, munthe.com
* for map go to page 90
DANISH DESIGN
Copenhagen designer Karsten
Bach’s love of fashion dates back to
his childhood days. Bach spent 20
years working for some of the city’s
most renowned labels before estab-
lishing his own, Bach Copenhagen.
His stunning designs are created
with a woman’s fgure in mind
and are expertly cut to ft and fat-
ter. At Bach’s second store, Bach
Copenhagen Grey, his own designs
are complemented by red-carpet
collections from the likes of Herve
Leger and Monique Lhuillier, as
well as a carefully curated selection
of luxury accessories. hl
Bach Copenhagen Grey,
Hovedvagtsgade 6,
1103 Copenhagen, +45 3311 5511,
bachcopenhagen.com
* for map go to page 90
SHOP | 41
globalblue.com
SHOP THE WORLD
Using our wealth of insider knowledge,
we have created a smartphone app to
help you to plan your trips. The app gives
information on 45 cities in 22 countries
– thousands of stores are listed and
located on maps, with full contact details
and a description of what each store
sells. Our maps guide you right to the
store, step-by-step, from your current
location and can also be downloaded
for offine use. If you’re looking for
something specifc, or a particular brand,
use our search option to locate it – you
can even create your own itinerary. The
app is available in Chinese, English and
Russian, and includes a Tax Refund
Calculator to tell you how much you’ll
save on every purchase you make in
every different country you visit. There are
also instructions on how to use Currency
Choice, our service that allows you to pay
in your home currency.
globalblue.com
Download the Global Blue guide
from the App Store or Play Store
SHARP SHAPES
The geometric jewel-shaped
handbags from Berlin-based label
Alpha Cruxis will make you look
at jewels in a whole new light.
Produced using 3mm-thick high-
quality Italian leather to create
their unique, rigid form, they’re
lined in super-soft black suede.
Our favourite is the triangular
clutch which dangles of the wrist.
With its chunky silver hardware,
it’s the perfect piece to toughen
up a feminine cocktail dress in the
evening. Watch out for the new
coloured suede linings, which will
become available online and in
stores throughout the year. jtj
Henrik Vibskov,
Krystalgade 6, 1172 Copenhagen,
+45 3314 6100,
alpha-cruxis.com
* for map go to page 88
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42 | N E WS
NEW BRANDS AT COLLAGE THE SHOP
Already a favourite among
trendsetters in the Danish capital,
Copenhagen multibrand acces-
sories store Collage the Shop be-
comes even more exciting this sea-
son with the addition of some very
impressive new names to its al-
ready wide range. The eponymous
label of fashion powerhouse Tom
Ford and the gorgeous handbag
collection from Italian-Brazilian
designer Paula Cademartori join
brands such as Gucci, Loewe and
Mulberry. In addition, two of the
fashion pack’s favourite design-
ers will also be represented in the
store for the frst time: Christopher
Kane and Olympia Le-Tan. hl
Collage the Shop at Illum,
Østergade 52, 1100 Copenhagen,
+45 3318 2788,
collagetheshop.dk
* for map go to page 86
SMOOTH SAILING
Danish designer Frederikke
Hviid’s vision for Whiite was to
create a functional yet luxurious
and fashion-conscious clothing
line. Inspired by modern women
who are busy juggling work, fam-
ily and social life, Hviid has kept
this ethos at the core of the brand
during the past decade. Carefully
selected, high-quality fabrics and a
focus on ft result in easy-to-wear
pieces which can be dressed up or
down to adapt to the demands of
each day. Whiite’s new collection,
Sail Away With Me, uses a colour
palette of blues, sand and sunset
shades. Flowing silks, satin and
scalloped prints emulate the move-
ment of sunlight refections and
seashore waves. gl
Whiite, Kronprinsensgade 7,
1114 Copenhagen,
+45 6021 6036, whiite.com
* for map go to page 90
/ 10599 Above: Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/summer 2014
Denmark’s menswear is rapidly gaining a worldwide reputation. Ruairidh
Pritchard discovers the secrets of this Copenhagen success story
109
LET’S HEAR IT FOR THE BOYS
Time after time Scandinavia has
been heralded as the home of Eu-
rope’s best emerging menswear
designers and the coolest cutting-
edge fashion, with ferce debate
over which city can claim the title
of capital of contemporary Scandi
style. Many believe it’s Stockholm,
home to world-renowned labels
such H&M and Acne, or Gothen-
burg, with its distinctly fresh, hip
edge. However, when it comes to
46 | FEATURES
Above (clockwise from top lef): Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/summer 2014; Goods store; Katastrophe collection, Soulland spring/summer 2014; Soulland founder Silas Adler
innovative, stand-out-cool mens-
wear, it’s clear that the Danes have
it nailed.
Copenhagen has produced
some of Europe’s fnest menswear
designers, from high-end talents
such as the avant-garde Henrik
Vibskov, whose pieces are much
coveted, to rising stars such as
recent graduate Nicklas Kunz.
Kunz’s frst full collection, his
autumn/winter 2013/14 range in-
spired by sportswear and hip hop,
has already earned fans across the
globe, including the designer’s fa-
vourite rapper, Kendrick Lamar.
One designer brand that has
seen a meteoric rise to streetwear
stardom is Soulland. Started in
2002 by designer Silas Adler, the
brand began with a concept – T-
shirts inspired by skateboarding
culture, frst made by Adler for his
friends. T-shirts soon expanded
into entire collections, but the label
still keeps its streetwear roots in-
tact, with a strong focus on mixing
classic and contemporary styles,
using the best-quality materials
to create clothes that exemplify
SHOP | 47
Craftsmanship and simplicity are key to the Scandinavian design ethos
the Copenhagen’s design aesthetic
– as Adler describes it, ‘simple, in-
telligent and wearable.’
The label’s latest ofering is the
spring/summer 2014 Bauhaus-
inspired Katastrophe collection.
As Adler explains, ‘The Bauhaus
was probably the most important
school to infuence modern archi-
tecture and design. Its abstract
forms and geometric shapes obvi-
ously played a central inspirational
role for the design of the spring/
summer 2014 collection.’ While
Adler himself is not Danish, he
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48 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): Shamballa Jewels sapphire lock bracelet; Wood Wood (all spring/summer 2014)
Denmark has carved a niche for its cool, contemporary menswear
was raised in Denmark and lives in
the country, and acknowedges the
efect of this on his design process.
‘I am very aware of Denmark
and Copenhagen. And in many
ways I’m inspired by this town
and the life I have in it,’ he says.
The collection is largely focused
on signature all-over and col-
lage prints, all made by hand,
featuring masks, geometric and
fragmented architectural pieces,
building on the Danish design
foundations of attention to detail
and honest craftsmanship.
Craftsmanship and simplicity
have always been key to the Scan-
dinavian style ethos. These char-
acteristics apply to fashion design
and to lifestyle as a whole. Danish
brand Wood Wood, founded in the
same year as Soulland, is another
Wood Wood has seven stores,
expanding the Danish design-led
lifestyle across Denmark, Ger-
many, Austria and Russia. Mens-
wear stores such as Goods are also
staples of the Copenhagen-based
Scandinavian menswear move-
ment, ofering carefully edited
pieces from collections by con-
great example of Danish function-
ality in fashion, with collections
focused on refning Scandinavian
style to create comfortable, wear-
able fashion – put simply, real
clothes for real men. It’s the over-
arching lifestyle focus that has seen
many Danish brands branch out
from design into successful retail.
SHOP | 49
as focused on fashion as women,
if not more,’ they explain. ‘It’s an
amazing place for contemporary
menswear and guys put a lot of ef-
fort into what they wear – not in a
try-hard way, but in a very efort-
less way. It’s a very laid-back but
polished way of dressing.’
Looking north for the best
European menswear design and
inspiration is undoubtedly the way
forward – it’s clear that Denmark
has carved itself a niche as the
Scandinavian capital of cool, con-
temporary menswear
henrikvibskov.com,
nicklaskunz.com,
soulland.com,
woodwood.dk,
goodscph.com,
shamballajewels.com
temporary, simple, streetwear-
inspired labels such as Dana Lee,
House of Billiam, Norse Projects
and YMC.
The evolution of the Danish
menswear aesthetic hasn’t gone
unnoticed, with designers and
fashion followers alike beginning
to take note of Copenhagen’s style
kudos. Mads Kornerup, Copenha-
gen native and founder of jewellery
label Shamballa Jewels, has been
creating bracelets, necklaces, cuf-
finks and rings with his brother
Mikkel since 2001, fnding suc-
cess worldwide and amassing fans
all over the world. Both brothers
are in agreement that the men of
Copenhagen are not only defning
Scandinavian style, but leading the
way. ‘The men in the city are just
GREEN LIGHT
50 | F E AT U R E S
Denmark and its Scandinavian neighbours are at the forefront of sustainable fashion. David Hellqvist meets some pioneering designers
Denmark, and the rest of Scandi-
navia, has made a name for itself
over the years for minimal, consid-
ered fashion design and for push-
ing the agenda in terms of home-
ware and technology. But anyone
who’s been following Swedish and
Danish brands of late knows that
it’s no longer all about cool mono-
chrome clothes and denim.
As Scandinavian style be-
comes more diverse, the regional
focus has turned to eco-friendly
and sustainable fashion. ‘There’s
a deep-rooted tradition in our so-
cial democratic society for taking
responsibility – not only for people,
but also the environment,’ explains
Jonas Eder-Hansen, director of
development of the Danish Fash-
ion Institute. ‘Social equality, fair
working conditions, environmen-
tal protection were introduced by
legislation several decades ago, so
SHOP | 51
/101
110
106
52 | FEATURES
Previous page: Aiayu knitwear spring/summer 2014
Above (both images): Armoire d’Homme spring/summer 2014
it lies in our traditions and in our
values to think responsibly.’ Den-
mark is a country that’s always
been ahead of the curve on eco-
matters.
This way of thinking and
working is visible in a wide ar-
ray of Danish brands, both com-
mercial, mainstream labels and
edgy catwalk designers. Few other
countries have managed to con-
vince so many of its customers that
sustainable fashion doesn’t have to
equal beige and boring garments,
and it’s down to an unquestion-
able emphasis on design. ‘I think
it’s really important to realise that
consumers will not buy a product
only because it’s sustainable – you
must create something that’s rel-
evant and covers the customer’s
needs,’ says Kjetil Aas, co-found-
er of menswear brand Armoire
d’Homme. The Danish fashion in-
dustry seems fully aware that just
being eco-friendly isn’t enough –
style and substance must go hand
in hand. According to Marie Wor-
saae from knitwear-focused brand
Aiayu, that notion hit Denmark
K o n g e n s n y t o r v 2 0 D K - 1 0 5 0 c o p e n h a g e n + 4 5 3 3 9 3 1 3 0 7 w w w . b i n D e s b o e l . D K
. p a s s i o n f o r f a s h i o n .
54 | FEATURES
Above (from lef): Barbara í Gongini; Aiayu knitwear (both spring/summer 2014)
Denmark’s high-quality, sustainable garments make it an eco-fashion world leader
a while back. ‘There’s an increased
understanding that sustainable
fashion can also meet good quality
and that ethics and aesthetics can
join hands,’ she says.
Kjetil Aas believes that this
green consciousness is inherent to
Scandinavian designers. ‘Quality
has always been of big importance
in Scandinavian design tradition.
At the same time, Scandi fashion
is focused on so-called “demo-
cratic fashion”, which means
it should be accessible to everyone.
Those two factors combined might
explain why a lot of Scandinavian
fashion designers are working
with sustainability.’
Designer Barbara í Gongini,
who shows at Copenhagen Fash-
ion Week, suggests that the will-
ingness to embrace environmen-
tally friendly fashion is down to
consumer mindset and to being
prepared to spend a little extra.
Her eponymous brand might chal-
lenge people’s perception of how
‘ecologic fashion’ should look.
PH
OTO
: KA
rin
A J
øn
sO
n
Gammel Mønt 1 • 1117 København K
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56 | FEATURES
The Barbara í Gongini aesthetic
is dark and moody, reminiscent
of Ann Demeulemeester and Rick
Owens. Though the brand con-
forms to fashion’s biannual collec-
tion cycle, the tempo is not a prob-
lem when it comes to maintaining
eco-quality. ‘We generally don’t
work with fast trends and mass
consumption. On the contrary, our
core essence is to make long-lasting
styles, and we work hard to imple-
ment that mindset in our design
process,’ the designer explains.
Any brand with a focus on
sustainability might struggle to
implement a holistic, 360-degree
policy. ‘There are still limitations
in realising a 100% sustainable
product, but it’s important that we
support the industry in their efort
to reach that point,’ says í Gongini.
‘We have developed an in-house
rating system that we use from sea-
son to season in order to measure
our success. We are not there yet,
though.’ Marie Worsaae of Aiayu,
which produces Danish designs
made out of top-quality Bolivian
fabrics, fnds it difcult to locate
suitable manufacturing partners.
This is especially true, she says, for
‘materials that have a uniqueness
about them but still maintain high
quality. Moreover, it’s still hard for
the manufacturers to understand
the importance of certifcations as
customers’ demands for increased
quality increase.’
In many ways, however, that’s
a ‘good problem’ – it’s only when
consumers choose high-quality,
sustainable garments over throw-
away fashion that progress has
been made – and Denmark seems
to be leading the way
armoiredhomme.com,
aiayu.com, barbaraigongini.dk
Above: Aiayu knitwear is handknited in Bolivia using traditional techniques
58 | F E AT U R E S
SHOP | 59
Stephen Doig takes a stroll through the magical enclave of Christiania, Copenhagen’s unique ‘freetown’
LIVING FREE
/103
112
107
Despite its historical architecture,
21st-century Copenhagen is a
booming modern city. The cob-
bled streets and historic churches
remain, but the skyline is dotted
with cranes as new structures rise.
Striking contemporary buildings
include the glistening Black Dia-
mond, a modern riverside exten-
sion to the Royal Danish Library
which also houses an auditorium
and exhibition spaces, and the
imposing, colossal Opera House,
while the city’s homes are flled
with cutting-edge technology and
design. The landscape that the
Little Mermaid looks upon has
shifted dramatically. This is why
passing through the gates to Chris-
tiania is all the more magical; the
hard edges and clean lines of the
city melt away to reveal a very dif-
ferent world.
PHOTO: CC BY 2.0/seier+seier
60 | FEATURES
The rich fairytale history set
out by Hans Christian Andersen
seems to live on in Christiania,
a warren of fantastically painted
buildings, craft havens and green-
ery and a ‘freetown’ which func-
tions outside the normal laws of
Danish society. So how did such a
place come into being? Christiania,
found to the south of the city cen-
tre on the banks of Copenhagen’s
myriad waterways, was formerly an
army barracks.
On 4 September 1971, a group
of free-thinking Copenhagen
locals broke into the disused bar-
racks to use the overgrown green
space as a play area for their
children. Jacob Ludvigsen, edi-
tor of the cutting-edge left-wing
Hovedbladet magazine, is cred-
ited with declaring Christiania an
autonomous space, publishing in
Hovedbladet that ‘Christiania is
the land of the settlers. It is the so
far biggest opportunity to build up
a society from scratch while nev-
ertheless still incorporating the
remaining constructions. … The
objective of Christiania is to create
a self-governing society whereby
each and every individual holds
themselves responsible for the well-
being of the entire community.’
But it would be too broad a brush
stroke to merely paint Christiania
as a ‘commune’. It is, quite simply,
like falling through a particularly
lovely rabbit hole, as Alice did to
discover Wonderland.
Previous page: glass house in Christiana Above: entrance to Christiana
Cars are not allowed, ivy-covered buildings are painted with lavish murals
PH
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BY
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SHOP | 63
‘We are living in heaven,’ says a long-time resident of Christiania
PH
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ixIt is immediately striking that
there are no car-worthy roads in
Christiania – cars are not allowed.
Ivy-covered buildings are painted
with lavish murals, paths are lined
with lavender and tulips grow
alongside timber structures that
look like cottages from a Brothers
Grimm fairytale. Some of these
pretty, almost unreal-looking
structures, built by the residents,
overlook lapping waters. Others are
built into hills, round-windowed
and oozing charm, like something
from Tolkien’s Shire. Buildings are
not ‘owned’ as such, but are built to
be passed on to others, in time. It’s
85 acres of peace, tranquility and
alternative living.
‘I always advise that my guests
see a slice of Christiania,’ says
Kirsten Brøchner, owner of Hotel
Kong Arthur and the Ibsens Hotel.
She sees the area as adding a rich-
ness to the Copenhagen experi-
ence. ‘It’s a great way to see another
side to Copenhagen, a simpler way
of life, which, as the city changes, is
all that more important to preserve.
It can be a like stepping back in
time.’ Brøchner’s tips include tak-
ing in the Gallopperiet art museum
by Christiania’s main entrance,
catching the various art galleries
and drinking in the atmosphere
over cofee, as well as stopping by
Galleri Leonard, a collective artist
workshop and exhibition space on
Sydområdet. Pick up some hand-
crafted artifacts at CA Butikken
on the corner of Prinsessegade and
Bådmandsstræde, marvel at the
artisanship in the Q-Smedien iron
workshop on Mælkevejen and soak
up some late night jazz after dark.
As long-time Christiania resident
Tanja Fox, who moved to the area
as a child and has never left, attests:
‘we are living in heaven’
christiania.org,
arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur,
arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel,
gallopperiet.dk,
kvindesmedien.dk
Above (both images): murals in Christiana
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globalblue.com
64 | EXPER IENCE
Raising the BaRCopenhagen’s cocktail bars ofer innovative
menus, unique concepts and engaging
atmospheres. Verity Hogan raises a glass to
a selection of the city’s best
cocktail in Denmark. This new
generation of mixologists has made
its mark by setting aside paper um-
brellas and mediocre ingredients
in favour of more unusual spirits,
fresh fruit juices and handcrafted
syrups, served in suitably refned
glassware. Cocktail bar décor also
refects this attention to detail with
ultra-chic interiors, while bartend-
ers display the fnest sartorial style
while serving.
Despite its reputation as a beer-
loving city, in recent years Co-
penhagen has created a vibrant
cocktail bar scene that rivals any
in Europe. Inspired by an infux of
international bartenders as well as a
crop of returning Danish bartend-
ers who honed their skills abroad,
cocktail culture has become so
important that there is even a bar-
tender’s club dedicated to promot-
ing and developing the art of the
SHOP | 65
S a l o n 3 9
With a décor featuring the care-
fully constructed shabby chic one
would expect from a speakeasy-
style bar, Salon 39 exemplifes fad-
ed glamour. The expert bartenders
enhance the atmosphere, refect-
ing the vintage aesthetic in their
traditional attire. Cocktail choices
change each season but generally
rely on high-quality whisky and
bourbon. Expect to fnd unique
mixes based on handcrafted fa-
vours; typical options include
the Coco Riot with its distinctive
popcorn- and coconut-infused
rum and the Gold Rush 39 which
includes a bourbon that tastes of
honey-favoured cereal.
Salon 39,
Vodrofsvej 39, 1900 Copenhagen,
+45 3920 8039, salon39.dk
66 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
T h e B a r k i n g D o g
Described as a ‘cocktail pub’, the
Barking Dog transcends both
genres with its simple concept of
a relaxed atmosphere, good music
and exemplary service. The bar’s
menu caters to all tastes; the house
beer, Barking Dog Pilsner, has a
distinctively Danish favour and is
produced by the fnest brewers in
Jutland, while the wine selection
includes vintages from the best
producers in France and italy.
The Barking Dog,
Sankt hans gade 19,
2200 Copenhagen,
+45 3536 1600,
thebarkingdog.dk
T h e U n i o n B a r
The Union Bar shares many traits
with the well-known prohibition
bars of 1920s new York. its loca-
tion is hidden behind an unmarked
black door on a quiet residential
street; guests ring the gold door-
bell before being ushered inside to
the low-lit, atmospheric interior.
a pressed tin ceiling and bare brick
walls lend character to the space
while bartenders in bow ties con-
coct an array of classic american
cocktails with fair.
The Union Bar,
Store Strandstraede 16,
1255 Copenhagen,
+45 4119 6976, theunionbar.dk
PH
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Ob
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Welcome to Wonderful Copenhagen
Toldbodgade 51E w- Østergade 1 - Frederiksberggade 32 - Langelinie Allé 18Langelinie Allé 20 - Klubiensvej - Sct. Laurentii Vej 56, Skagen
www.townshopdk.com
TOWN SHOPExclusive Souvenirs
T-shirts & Sweatshirts - Knitwear - Accessories - Books - Postcards - Souvenirs
68 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
L i d k o e b
With its bohemian décor and cosy open freplace, Lidkoeb is one of Copenhagen’s most intimate bars. The bar is housed in a former pharmacy laboratory; the building was constructed in the 18th centu-ry and has been carefully restored to retain its heritage aesthetic. The menu features both classic and more innovative cocktail options;
share a pitcher of punch with a group of friends or try one of the house mixes – the New orleans Minute combines tequila, mara-schino liqueur, orange bitters and a handful of cofee beans, while the Mynte Smash, features vodka, mint and pineapple syrup. both are highly recommended.Lidkoeb,Vesterbrogade 72b, 1620 Copenhagen, +45 3311 2010, lidkoeb.dk
SHOP | 69
b a L T h a z a r
The balthazar Champagne bar strikes the perfect balance between honouring the luxury connotations of this famous sparkling wine and adapting it to suit the modern bar scene. The bar’s entrance and in-terior décor is suitably grand and the menu features a selection of the world’s fnest vintages – Cham-pagnes by Moët et Chandon,
Veuve Clicquot and dom Péri-gnon are all available by the glass. Cocktail options are more daring; the Velvety emerald combines brut Champagne with Żubrówska bison Grass vodka, fresh lime and a homemade apple and cinnamon syrup, while the downtown abbey adds passion fruit, liquorice and belvedere vodka to the mix.Balthazar, Ny Østergade 6, 1101 Copenhagen, +45 3312 1262, balthazarcph.dk
70 | EXPER IENCE
globalblue.com
Art’OtelArt, design and upscale hospital-
ity are an integral part of any stay
at Amsterdam’s Art’Otel. Works
by the hotel’s signature artist Ate-
lier Van Lieshout are found on
almost every wall, while the ho-
tel restaurant 5&33 hosts artistic
events as well as serving exquisite
Italian-inspired cuisine. A unique
work of art hangs in each of the
hotel’s 107 guest rooms, which
also ofer ultra-comfortable beds,
atmospheric lighting and luxury
Elemis toiletries. Be sure to take
advantage of the hotel’s well-ap-
pointed facilities, which include a
gym, an indoor swimming pool, a
Finnish sauna and a beauty salon.
Art’Otel, Prins Hendrikkade 33,
1012 TM Amsterdam,
+31 (0)20 719 7222,
artotelamsterdam.com
Stay in Style
The world’s fnest hotels boast locations in the most
desirable city districts, interiors that demonstrate
meticulous attention to detail and amenities ranging
from Michelin-starred restaurants to luxury spa
facilities ofering state-of-the-art treatments.
SHOP shares its pick of some of the very best
PH
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UL
WIN
CH
-FU
RN
ES
S
SHOP | 71
Meliá MAdrid PrinceSA
Featuring all of the attributes you
could wish for in a luxury hotel,
the Meliá Madrid Princesa is one
of Europe’s most style-conscious
places to stay. The hotel was re-
cently renovated and each room
now boasts a contemporary yet re-
fned interior, combining a warm
colour palette with minimalist
furnishings. The hotel’s central
location is an added attraction; it
is set just a short walk away from
a number of sights including Gran
Vía, the Museo del Prado and
Plaza Mayor.
Meliá Princesa,
Calle de la Princesa 27,
28008 Madrid,
+34 91 541 8200,
melia.com
PH
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CIS
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O
globalblue.com
25hours hotel at MuseuMs-Quartier
Refecting Vienna’s creativity, the
25Hours hotel is located in the
city’s most artistic district and
boasts an appropriately avant-
garde décor. The hotel is themed
around a circus and each room
features illustrations by artist Olaf
Hajek, depicting everything from
juggling clowns to acrobats in
72 | E X PE R I E NCE
fight. This eclectic décor is com-
plemented by an array of more
conventional amenities, including
fatscreen televisions, iPod dock-
ing stations, sustainable toiletries
and free Wi-Fi. Larger suites are
equipped with kitchenettes but all
guests should visit the hotel res-
taurant, 1500 Foodmakers, with
its cosmopolitan take on Italian-
American cuisine.
25Hours Hotel at Museums
Quartier,
Lerchenfelder Strasse 1-3,
1070 Vienna, +43 (0)1 521510,
25hours-hotels.com
globalblue.com
74 | E X PE R I E NCE
SuiteS Center
BarCelona
Providing a home from home
in the city centre, Suites Center
Barcelona ofers a range of apart-
ments designed for between one
and 10 guests. Every apartment
ofers an array of amenities, from
a fully equipped kitchen and bath-
room to air-conditioning units
and parking spaces. The suites
were completely renovated and
refurbished in 2010 and now ofer
serene yet inviting interiors that
encourage relaxation. Optional
added luxuries include private
transfers, room service, a baby-
sitting service and a menu of mas-
sage treatments.
Suites Center Barcelona,
Passeig de Gràcia 128,
08008 Barcelona,
+34 93 255 3010,
hotelescenter.es/barcelonasuites
Visit the LEGO®
Store in the home of the brick!
©20
13 T
he L
EG
O G
roup
. 1
999-6
159
Amager
Knab
rostræde
Hyske
nstræ
de
Klosterstræde
Vimmelskaftet
Bad
stuestræde
Opening Hours
Mon - Thu: 10:00am - 6:00pm
Fri: 10:00am - 7:00pm
Sat: 10:00am - 6:00pm
Sun: 11:00am - 5:00pm
How to fi nd us:
LEGO Store Copenhagen - Vimmelskaftet 37,
1161 Copenhagen Tel: +45 5215 9158
For a complete list of LEGO Stores, events,directions and more go to LEGO.com/stores
My Weekend
76 | EXPER IENCE
Save up to 19% by shopping tax free, see page 96
Normann Copenhagen
‘As I’m a fan of Danish design,
Normann Copenhagen was one
of the most inspirational stores
I visited. Its vast product range
includes the cutting edge of
contemporary design.’
Kung Fu
‘After a long day’s sightseeing,
Kung Fu’s relaxed ambience
and Asian-inspired menu was
a more than welcome discovery.
The menu features an array of
sushi, dumplings and ramen.’
Royal Smushi Café
‘No visit to Copenhagen would
be complete without a smushi.
The Royal Café’s speciality is
a bite-sized open sandwich that
lies somewhere between a tradi-
tional smorrebrod and sushi.’
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Copenhagen is one of Europe’s most acclaimed
capitals, ofering internationally renowned
cuisine, cutting-edge concept stores and a city
centre that is ideally sized for a short break.
SHOP’s picture editor Dorcas Brown spends
a weekend wandering the city’s picturesque
streets – and avoiding its many cyclists
globalblue.com
SHOP | 77
DIRECTORY
Normann Copenhagen,
Østerbrogade 70,
2100 Copenhagen,
+45 3527 0540,
normann-copenhagen.com
Butik for Borddaekning,
Møntergade 6,
1116 Copenhagen,
+45 3332 6101,
butikforborddaekning.dk
Emmerys,
Store Kongensgade 97,
1264 Copenhagen,
+45 3330 1350,
emmerys.dk
Royal Smushi Café,
Amagertorv 6,
1160 Copenhagen,
+45 3312 1122,
royalsmushicafe.dk
* for map go to page 86
Kung Fu,
Sundevedsgade 5,
1751 Copenhagen,
+45 3331 8409,
kungfubar.dk
Butik for Borddaekning
‘The six designers featured
at Butik for Borddaekning
are known for their individu-
al aesthetics but all have cre-
ated pieces that could form
part of a luxury table setting.
High-quality design is para-
mount, while materials used
include concrete and wood.’
Emmerys
‘Emmerys is my favourite
lunchtime location; the bak-
ery is famed for its favourful
organic sourdough and ofers
an extensive range of breads,
cakes and pasta. I recom-
mend visiting for a cup of
cofee and a slice of cake.’
The simplest wayto shop tax freeJoin. Shop. Swipe. Save
The Global Blue Card. Save up to 19%* when you shop abroad at the world’s favourite stores. Sign-up now.
www.globalblue.com/register
*Subject to local conditions.
GUIDE | 79
Guide
ILL
US
TR
AT
ION
: LY
ND
ON
HAY
ES
Navigating an unfamiliar city is never easy. Global
Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping
maps, helping you fnd your way around Copenhagen
with useful hints and insider information about what
to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check
out globalblue.com/copenhagen or pick up one of our
bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.
globalblue.com
80 | GUIDE
SNAPSHOTS
OF A CITY
‘Bustling, dynamic
Copenhagen retains a laid-
back, friendly charm that
makes it one of my favourite
cities in Europe’ – Hannah
Lewis, SHOP’s assistant
fashion and news editor
globalblue.com
PH
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As
BR
OW
N
SHOP | 81
Follow our team
on Instagram
@globalblue and
tag us in your city
photos – you might
see them in print!
82 | GUIDE
Copenhagen
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WS G
AD
E
KING’S GARDEN
ROSENBORGCASTLE
CHURCH OF HOLMEN
THE OLD STOCKEXCHANGE
CHRISTIANSBORGPALACE
NATIONALMUSEUM
NY CARLSBERGGLYPTOTEK
DANISH DESIGN CENTRE
CITY HALL SQUARE
TIVOLI
CHURCH OF OUR LADY
THE ROUND TOWER
THORVALDENS MUSEUM
ØRESTEDS PARK
COPENHAGEN
MAIN STATION
NØRREPORT
TRAIN STATION
NØRREPORT
(Inside Illums Bolighus)
Place Of Interest Train Station
MetroGlobal Blue Refund Point
P.85
P.86
P.86
P.90
P.88
SHOP | 83
AD
EL
GA
DE
OV
ERG
AD
EN O
VEN
VA
ND
ET
ST
OR
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ON
GE
NS
GA
DE
B
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DG
AD
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OR
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RG
AD
E
LA
RS
EN
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LA
DS
HAV NEG
ADE
NYHAVN
SANKT ANNÆ PL.
HOLBERGSGADE
T
OL
DB
OD
GA
DE
TO
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NIE
LS
JUE
LS
GA
DE
P
RINSESSEG
AD
E
VÆ
RF
TS
BR
OE
N
MARBLE CHURCH
AMALIENBORG
COPENHAGEN OPERA HOUSE
OUR SAVIOURS
CHURCH
NYHAVN
KONGENS NYTORV
Tourist InformationHotel
P.92
P.95
Featured In This Issue
GUIDE | 85
Frederiksberggade, Nygade & Vimmelskaftet
BROLÆ
GGERSTRÆDE
SLUTTE RIG
ADE
STUDIESTRÆDE
KOMPAGNISTRÆDE
KOMPAGNIS
TRÆDE
LA
RS
BJØ
RN
SS
TR
.
KATTESUNDET
Town HallSquare
NØ
RR
EG
NY
TOR
V
RǺ
DH
US
ST
RÆ
DE
STRØGET
FREDERIK
SBERGGADE
NYGADE
S
TRØGET
● BIK BOK
● PILGRIM
● BR
● TAXI
● M
CDONALDS
EXTREME
● FASHION
● PIECES
BURGER
● KIN
G
DERES ●
COM
PANYS ●
VIKING GAVESHOP ●
ACCESSORIZE ●
RAV SPECIALISTEN ●
1962 ●
TOWNSHO
P ●
MO
NKI ●
RANDERS HANSKER ●
DANISH PIPE SHOP
V
●ERO
MO
DA ●
7-ELEVEN ●
THE BODY SHOP ●
SCOOP ●
DANISH SOUVENIR ●
JETTE RIIS ●
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS ●
ROYAL SKIN ●
GARBO ●
CRÉME FRAISE
B
●
ISON ●
NEW YORKER ●
COPENHAGEN
● SOUVENIR &
DESIGN
● HAVANA SHOES
● TREND
● TIGER
● FOOT LOCKER
7-ELEVEN ●
MAGGIE ●
● TROELSTRUP (100m
) ● K29 STUDIOSHOP
Lagkagehuset
● 3
BU
TIK
● LEG
O
● S
PO
RT
SM
AN
● T
RE
ND
● V
ILA
● S
AIN
T TR
OP
EZ
● D
ER
ES
● G
ST
RE
ET
● A
TH
LET
ES
FOO
T
● H
VE
LPLU
ND
● W
UN
DE
RW
EA
R
● 12’E
RE
N
● T
ER
RA
NO
VA
● B
IAN
CO
● P
IECE
S
ST
RØ
GE
TS
UR
E
● G
ULD
& S
ØLV
● M
ATA
S
ZA
RA
●
ME
SS
AG
E ●
SO
LID ●
HA
VA
NA
SH
OE
S ●
DO
PE ●
NA
ME IT ●
SP
OR
TS
MA
ST
ER
●
STO
RY
KR
AN
Z &
ZIEG
LER
●
SK
AG
EN
●
KA
UFM
AN
N ●
ALD
O ●
L’UN
ICO
●
MO
NIQ
UE ●
HO
US
E OF A
MB
ER
●
MM
DE
SIG
N●
B
aresso
PH
OTO
-
● G
RA
FICA
NYGADE
STRØGET
● H
R. SKO
GAMES ●
KARUSELLA ●
SKAGEN ●
JOR
CK
S P
AS
SA
GE
JUVELÉR
EDMUND ARNOLD ●PHOTOGRAFICA ●
● SPORTSMASTER
ROyal COpenhagen
One of Copenhagen’s oldest and
most prestigious companies,
Royal Copenhagen has been
producing the highest quality
porcelain since 1775. The brand
strikes the perfect balance be-
tween tradition and modernity;
its classic blue and white designs
are still painted by hand but cus-
tomers are invited to mix and
match its latest collections to cre-
ate a more contemporary feel.
Royal Copenhagen,
amagertorv 6,
1160 Copenhagen,
+45 3814 9605,
royalcopenhagen.com
* for map go to page 86
SHOP RecommendationCafé
RestaurantGlobal Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
86 | GUIDE
Amagertorv & Østergade
Kronprinsensgade & Sværtegade
PILESTRÆ
DE
NY
ØS
TE
RG
AD
E
ANTONIGADE
HøjbroPlads
KØ
BM
AG
ER
GA
DE
GAMMEL STRAND
VALKENTORFSG
AD
E
SVÆRTEGADE
KR
IST
EN
BE
RN
IKO
WS
GA
DE
BR
EM
ER
HO
LM
AMAGERTOR V
STRØGET
STRØGET
Ø
STERGADE
● P
HO
NE
SE
RV
ICE
.DK
● O
FE
LIA
● L
EV
I’S
● F
OO
T L
OC
KE
R
● A
MB
ER
ST
AR
● W
EL
CO
ME
SO
UV
EN
IR
● N
ØR
GA
AR
D P
AA
ST
RO
GE
T
● M
AD
S N
ØR
GA
AR
D
● L
ILLY
● S
CO
OP
● H
&M
● &
OT
HE
R S
TO
RIE
S
● S
KIN
D G
AL
LE
RIE
T
● C
AN
DY
ME
GA
ST
OR
E
● W
EE
KD
AY
LO
UIS
VU
ITT
ON
●
GE
OR
G JE
NS
EN
●
RO
YA
L C
OP
EN
HA
GE
N ●
DIS
NE
Y S
TO
RE
●
ILL
UM
S B
OL
IGH
US
●
TE
LIA
●
SC
AR
PA
SH
OE
S ●
MO
NS
OO
N/A
CC
ES
SO
RIZ
E ●
PA
ND
OR
A ●
CH
AN
GE
LIN
GE
RIE
●
BIA
NC
O S
KO
●
SØ
ST
RE
NE
GR
EN
E ●
ST
ILL
EB
EN
●
IVA
N G
RU
ND
AH
L ●
JUL
IE
● S
AN
DL
AU
H&
M ●
TO
PS
HO
P ●
LA
NV
IN ●
BIR
GE
R
CH
RIS
TE
NS
EN
●
SA
ND
●
UR
BA
N O
UT
FIT
TE
RS
●
● M
AT
INIQ
UE
/INW
EA
R
● T
HE
BO
DY
SH
OP
● C
OS
● F
ON
A
● T
RIU
MP
H
● E
CC
O
● C
AM
PE
R
● G
LIT
TE
R
● H
AY
DE
SIG
N
● W
OL
FO
RD
KL
AR
LU
ND
●
AU
BA
DE
●
PO
UL S
TIG
GL
AS
SE
S ●
GA
NT
●
ST
EN
ST
RU
P ●
IVA
N G
RU
ND
AH
L ●
PE
AK
PE
RF
OR
MA
NC
E ●
TO
MM
Y H
ILF
IGE
R ●
Illum
Ca
féE
uro
pa
Ca
fé No
rd
Ved Stranden 10
Ro
ya
l Sm
ush
i Ca
fé
● G
UC
CI
DESIGNERS REMIX ●
SAMSØE&SAMSØE ●
URBAN OUTFITTERS ●
BRUNELLO
CUCINELLI ●
ADIDAS ●
HELSEMIN ●
AGENT
PROVOCATEUR ●
HOLMSTRUP ●
SELECTED STORES
IN ILLUM:
COLLAGE THE SHOP
PIL
ES
TR
ÆD
E
ANTONIGADE
GAMM
EL MØN
T
KØ
BM
AG
ER
GA
DE
KRONPRINSENSGADE S
VÆRTEGADE
EM
PO
RIO
RIX
●
NO
RR
●
AC
NE
●
7 E
LE
VE
N ●
HE
J HE
J ●
OZ
●
ILS
E JA
CO
BS
EN
●
AS
H ●
BR
UU
NS
BA
ZA
AR
ME
N ●
WH
IITE
●
CH
EA
P M
ON
DA
Y ●
A.C
. PE
RC
H'S
●
ST
RE
ET
MA
CH
INE
●
● T
HE
NO
RT
H F
AC
E
● O
DD
MO
LL
Y
● JU
ST
FE
MA
LE
● N
OR
R
● E
NV
II
● G
AN
T R
UG
GE
R
● S
TIG
P
● H
ÖF
F
● N
OT
AB
EN
E
BR
UU
NS
BA
ZA
AR
● W
OM
EN
● B
RU
NO
& JO
EL
ZA
RA
H
● V
OIG
T
WEEKDAY
The design-conscious Week-
day boutique appeals to those
with experimental wardrobes.
The store’s selection is centred
on denim and the extended
range for both men and wom-
en is infused with the same
edge and attitude. Peruse the
store’s own labels before ad-
miring pieces by local brands
such as Cheap Monday, Rode-
bjer, Back and Whyred.
Weekday,
Amagertorv 33,
1160 Copenhagen,
+45 3312 1512,
weekday.com
Global Blue Retailer Department Store
Global Blue Refund Point
P.1
14
P.8
8
P.7
7
P.94
P.8
5, 9
4P.9
4
SHOP Recommendation Featured In This Issue
P.42
Non-Global Blue Retailer
F I L I P P A - K . C O M
88 | GUIDE
K
LA
RE
BO
DE
RN
E
LØ
VS
TR
ÆD
E
SILKEGADE
STO
RE
KA
NN
IKE
ST
RÆ
DE
FIO
LS
TR
ÆD
E
PUSTER
VIG
PILESTRÆ
DE
KL
OS
TE
RS
TR
ÆD
E
SK
IND
ER
GA
DE
VO
GN
MA
GE
RGADE
KRYSTALGAD E
LA
ND
EM
ÆR
KE
T
KØ
BM
AG
ER
GA
DE
KØBMAGERGADE
KØ
BM
AG
ER
GA
DE
VALKEN
DO
R
FS
GA
DE
KRONPRINSENSGADE
STRØGET
RUNDETÅRN / THE ROUND TOWER
● EPLEHUSET
● KULTORVETS URE GULD SØLV
Kultorvet
SKO FEBER ●
● TP MUSIK
HENRIK VIBSKOV ●
● CARHARTT
SIGN
AL ●
WEA
R SKIN
●
BOG &
IDÉ ●
TDC ●
SCOO
P ●
● B
ØRN
ENES B
OG
HA
ND
EL
● P
LINT
● E
SPIRIT
● M
ESSAGE
● S
AM
SØE&
SAM
SØE
● S
TEREO S
TUD
IO
● S
AIN
T TRO
PEZ
● P
ART T
WO
● S
IX●
FA
LKENG
ERG
● M
AC●
H&
M M
AN
● KAZA● LOUIS NIELSEN● LISBETH DAHL● H&M KIDS
● !SOLID● OPTIKKENS HUS
● TOPS
● PETER HERTZ
● NÜ
● HTC ONE
● VANS
● CARLINGS
● BENETTON
● MATAS
● SYNOPTIK
CARLA F ●
BIANCO ●
GINA TRICOT ●
DIESEL ●
GEOX ●
MARIMEKKO ●
ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●
TOP BRANDS ●
BR ●
NILSON SHOES ●
EDITH & ELLA ●
NOA NOA ●
PETITGAS ●
THIELE ●
MONKI ●
H&M ●FEEL ●DOPE ●
BUTTERICKS ●IREP.DK ●
TELENOR ●SMARTBOX ●
MATAS ●GLITTER ●
ESTHERS KLÆDESKAB ●
ARNOLDBUSCK ●
● A
.C. P
ERCH’S
● N
AG STO
RE
● LAGKAGEHUSETRENÉ ●
TIGER ●
Illum
CHICO ●
3 BUTIK ●
● 7 ELEVENFJELD OG
FRITID ●
TIMSCREWED ●
ES UP VINTAGE ●
● PASHMINA HOUSE ● ANOTHER NUÉ
POST & TELEMUSEUM
Købmagergade
zarah voigt
zarah voigt is known for infus-
ing her collections with a touch
of theatricality. her avant-garde
aesthetic always attracts attention
while her use of precious metals
and high manufacturing stan-
dards mean quality is guaran-
teed. Despite the famboyant na-
ture of her work, voigt maintains
a base of strict, geometric shapes
and often incorporates aspects of
origami within her work.
Zarah Voigt,
gammel Mont 23,
1117 Copenhagen,
+45 3336 3376, zarahvoigt.com
* for map go to page 86
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
Place Of Interest
Department Store
Featured In This Issue
P.41
Eplehuset - Your Danish Apple Expert.
Located in the heart of Copenhagen.
Frederiksborggade 8 | www.eplehuset.dk
TM og © 2013 Apple Inc. Alle rettigheder forbeholdes.
At Eplehuset we know all there
is to know about Apple.
Come for a visit if you want
to experience Apple, or if
you want to discover
Copenhagen’s largest range
of accessories.
See, hear and experience
Bang & Olufsen’s line of
audio proucts for the iPad and
iPhone.
Or what about the Danish
prize winner, Libratone -
the elegant AirPlay® design
speaker?
store. In the heart of Copen-
hagen.
We look forward to seeing you.
A place where
dreams come true.
90 | GUIDE
PILESTRÆDE
PIL
ES
TR
ÆD
E
LILLE KONGENSGADE
KL
AR
EB
OD
ER
NE
NY
ØS
TE
RG
AD
E
ANTONIGADE
CH
RIS
TIA
N IX
'S G
AD
E
ORV STRØGET
S
TRØGET
ØSTERG
ADE
S
VÆRTEGADE
KO
NG
EN
S N
YT
OR
V
GRØ
NN
EG
AD
E
VO
GN
MA
GERGADE
BR
EM
ER
HO
LM
KØBMA
GE
RG
AD
E
GOTHERSGADE
● HOLLY GOLIGHTLY
NESPRESSO ●
CLARKS ●
BILLING ●
TOPSHOP ●
H&M ●
● S
KJO
LD
BU
RN
E
● T
OW
N S
HO
P
● S
CO
OP
● Z
AD
IG &
VO
LT
AIR
E
● H
ER
MÈ
S
● B
ES
TS
EL
LE
R
● M
AX
MA
RA
● C
OP
EN
HA
GE
N S
OU
VE
NIR
S
● M
UL
BE
RR
Y
● H
OT
EL
CH
OC
OL
AT
● K
AR
EN
MIL
LE
N
● H
VE
LP
LU
ND
WA
TC
HE
S
● H
UG
O B
OS
S
● S
TA
MP
E P
EL
S
● T
RO
LD
EK
UG
LE
R
● B
UR
BE
RR
Y
FO
GA
L ●
TA
SC
HE
N ●
HA
LB
ER
ST
AD
T ●
NO
A N
OA
●
OL
E M
AT
HIE
SE
N ●
MA
RIN
A R
INA
LD
I ●
EM
PO
RIO
AR
MA
NI ●
MO
NC
LE
R ●
BA
NG
& O
LU
FS
EN
●
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ●
● MASAI
● HOPE
FILIPPA K. ●
● GANNI ● PURE SHOP
KASSANDRA ●
● ANNE SAX
● MICHAEL STRØM
● M
AG
AS
IN
ØSTERGADE
BOLIA.COM ●
ME & AUDREY ●
ROHRMANN & BJERNO ●
MARC BY MARC JACOBS ●
NIELSEN & CO ●
J.LINDBERG ●
TIGER OF SWEDEN ●
● BEAU MARCHE
KAREN BY ● SIMONSEN ØRGREEN ●
● TAGE ANDERSEN
● KARTELL
DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN ●
BY MALENE
BIRGER ●
LLOYD ●
● WOOD WOOD
● NO.10
HUMAC ●
ACNE ●MANO MOTUS ●
BIEN CHACHÉ ●TRICOTAGE ●
ZARAH VOIGT ●LALA BERLIN ●
● VIPP
● BOFORM
● DICO
● STORM
● URBAN FACTORY
● DØGN NETTO
FIGAROS BRYLLUP ●
CASA SHOP ●
ANNIKAT ●
BLOMSTERBERGS ●
MARCJACOBS ●
MUNTHE●
WESC ●CAMPER ●
WHIITE ●
G-STAR RAW ●
GALLERI K ●
TOMMY
● HILFIGER
● HARTUNG
GU
INE
SS
WO
RL
D
RE
CO
RD
S M
US
EU
M
THE NORTH FACE ●
KIRK & SKOV ●
LEXINGTON ●
AXEL ●
● STINE GOYA
Perchs Thehandel
● ILL 7 ● PICO
● NAPP JEANS
Kristen Bernikows Gade, Ny Østergade, Østergade, Christian IX’s Gade & Grønnegade
FILLIPA K
Filippa K epitomises Scandina-
vian style; the label specialises in
timeless pieces and well-cut ba-
sics that never go out of fashion.
This spring/summer, expect to
fnd Filippa K’s popular stretch
jeans alongside smart separates
in muted colours, with clean cuts
and splashes of spring forals
found throughout the collection.
Filippa K, Ny Østergade 13,
1101 Copenhagen,
+45 3393 8000, flippa-k.com
NY
ØS
TE
RG
AD
E
KO
NG
EN
S N
YT
OR
V
FILIPPA K●
RUE VERTE ●SOMMERBIRD ●
OLEANA ●
STELLA MCCARTNEY● SHAMBALLA JEWELS ●
AVEDA/ARCHE ●KOBRA & SKS SHOES ●
APAIR ●LACOSTE ●
BOTTEGA VENETA ●
BACH COPENHAGEN ● GREY
● LAGKAGEHUSET
● OLE LYNGGAARD
● POM D'API
Café VictorBalthazar Champagne Bar
DENNIS ● KNUDSEN
● GOSSIP
Global Blue Retailer
Bar
P.2
6
P.95
P.95
SHOP Recommendation Featured In This Issue
Café
P.42P.40
P.38, 94
P.40
Non-Global Blue Retailer
92 | GUIDE
NYHAVN
DRONNINGENS TVÆRGADE
LILLE S
TRA
ND
ST
RÆ
DE
STORE STRANDSTR ÆD E
LANDGREVEN
KONGENS NYTORV
NYHAVN
S
TO
RE
KO
NG
EN
SG
AD
E
ST
OR
E K
ON
GE
NS
GA
DE
SANKT ANNÆ PLADS
SANKT ANNÆ PLADS
BR
ED
GA
DE
● BINDESBØL
DØGN NETTO ●
MATAS ●
ÆGTE TÆPPER ●
HELSEMIN ●
APOTEK ●
CREAS ●
ARNDAL ●
FAQTA Q ●SCHMELLING ●
ÓLI PRIK ●
PETER BEIER ●
BILLE ●MATAS ●
SECHER SCOTT ●
CARL HANSEN & SØN ●BJARNHOF.COM ●
REESLEV ●REPUTATION ●
● APEL
● NELS ERICHSEN
● JOHN HERIC
● HALL DESIGNS● CARL BOHN
● GIORGI & HEIN● KÆRE VEN
● OPTICIAN KLAUS BERTHELSEN
● ROYAL AMBER
● A. DRAGSTED
● JUUL
● MONTANA MOBILE
● BODIL BINNER● LARS GLAD
● DANISH SILVER● MONTAN
● MERMAID AMBER● HORNSLETH & FRIENDS
● CPH PIANO● GALERIE BIRCH
● HARTMANN'S● FORMELA.DK
● ZANE● HOUSE OF AMBER
KLASSISK MODERNE
MØBELKUNST ●
REBEKKANOTKIN ●
BRUUNRASMUSSEN ●
NYHAVN(RESTAURANT AREA)
● GABOR● KGS NYTORV SKO ● TELENOR
THE ROYAL THEATER
Geist
Baresso
Magasin du Nord
Hotel D'angleterre
Pluto
Restaurant Sankt Annæ
Mash
KONGENS NYTORV ST
Kongens NytorvSquare
● BIKERENT
ANKT ANNÆ PLADS
STORE STRANDSTR Æ
DE
NYHAVN
BR
ED
GA
DE
L
ILL
E S
TR
AN
DS
TR
ÆD
E
ANNE AMMITZBØL ●
KIR
A-C
PH
●
PO
RT
US
●
● B
ITT
E K
AI R
AN
D
GE
ISM
AR
S ●
EM
ME
RY
'S ●
ST
AS
IA ●
KJØ
LL
ER
/V
AL
EN
T ●
LO
UIS
E G
RØ
NLY
KK
E ●
BA
CH
CO
PE
NH
AG
EN
●
OL
IVE
R
GU
ST
AV
●
MO
NG
OL
IAN
CA
SH
ME
RE
HO
US
E ●
AN
TIQ
UE
TO
YS
●
HOUSE OF AMBER/COPENHAGEN AMBER MUSEUM
Store Kongensgade, Bredgade, Store Strandstræde
& Kongens Nytorv
The Royal TheaTRe
Copenhagen’s opulent theatre,
featuring red velvet seating, gold-
en balconies and a painted ceiling,
provides a perfect setting for clas-
sical pieces while its shape makes
it especially suited to ballet; Swan
lake and Don Giovanni have
both been performed here.
The Royal Theatre,
Kongens Nytorv,
1017 Copenhagen,
+45 3369 6933, kglteater.dk
Department Store
Metro
P.94
P.95
P.95
Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer
SHOP Recommendation Featured In This Issue
In August 2013 Vanessa Bruno opened her frst
Scandinavian retail venture located in central Copenhagen.
Vanessa Bruno is the go-to brand for city-chic separates, from tailored blazers
to business-ready shirts and more feminine, leg-baring dresses.
Østergade 24C ( Pistolstræde ), 1100 København K. Telefon 3219 9608
www.vanessabruno-cph.dk
Above: Royal Copenhagen china
MY Copenhagen:
henning Kern
94 | GU I DE
Danish jewellery brand Dyrberg/Kern has ofered jewellery and watches designed in Copenhagen for modern, confdent women for the past three decades. CEO and creative director Henning Kern tells Isabella Redmond
Styles why the city is his creative home
dyrbergkern.com
‘I love it here. Copenhagen has
been voted the best city in the
world to live, more than once. I
took the step about 10 years ago
of moving to Islands Brygge, an
up-and-coming, cool area close
to the harbour.
‘In Copenhagen, if you
want the best of Scandina-
vian design, go to Illums
Bolighus * p.86. I don’t need
to mention they sell Dyrberg/
Kern there, do I? Adjacent to
Illums Bolighus, you’ll fnd
Royal Copenhagen * p.86,
where they sell renowned hand-
painted china which goes per-
fectly with classic and modern
interiors alike.
‘For avant-garde fashion, I’d
recommend Storm * p.90, the
coolest boutique, where you can
get top collections of art, fash-
ion and design – a true haven
for design lovers like me. The
department store Illum * p.86,
a few steps away, ofers every-
thing the design lover needs
across four large foors, includ-
ing a gourmet supermarket.
‘I’m a classic guy and like
classic food. Try Pastis for
authentic French brasserie-style
food. Sticks ‘n’ Sushi will treat
you to the best sushi in town.
Another cool Islands Brygge
local restaurant is Scarpetta, a
modern Italian restaurant with
reasonable prices and lovely
comfort food. More than a few
times I have brought people to
Mash * p.92, a high-end steak
house. Mash has a very cool
Above (clockwise from top lef): Café Victor; Nyhavn harbour; Hotel d’Angleterre
GU I DE | 95
atmosphere and you always
meet someone you know there.
Another place I like to frequent
is Café Victor * p.90, a clas-
sic bistro style restaurant/bar
which has been around forever.
Their Danish food is perhaps
still the best in town.
‘My favourite walk in
Copenhagen is a stroll from
where I live at Islands Brygge,
passing over the Langebro
bridge, which takes me straight
down to the harbour. I’ll pass
the Black Diamond, which
is the Royal Library. From
there I’d probably walk down
to the beautiful Kongens
Nytorv square * p.92, which
houses the restored Hotel
d’Angleterre * p.92, and then
stroll down to Nyhavn, to all the
chic cafés. And perhaps have a
beer. Denmark still ofers seri-
ously good beer. In the summer
time everybody gathers there
and it’s crowded with people.
‘From Nyhavn you get
a spectacular view over the
water of Copenhagen har-
bour to the Copenhagen
Opera House * p.83, which
was a gift from Maersk a few
years back, designed by archi-
tect Henning Larsen. It’s an
amazing construction and a
spectacular view.
‘If you are in the mood
for a very nice cup of tea, go
to Perchs Thehandel * p.90.
They serve the best English
high tea, just like they do in the
UK. Not many people know
of the place, but their scones
are amazing.
‘As I’m a big fan of modern
art, I never skip any shows at
the Louisiana museum.
‘The city bikes are really
cool – really cheap and they
are parked everywhere for you
to unlock and go! On warm
summer days, drive all the
way out to the north beaches
of Bellevue.’PH
OTO
: (TO
P R
IGH
T) M
OR
TeN
JeR
ICH
Au
/CO
PeN
HA
GeN
Med
IAC
eNTe
R.C
OM
96
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Translations
Индустрия мужской одежды
набирает в Дании стремительные
обороты. Руайрид Притчард
попытался узнать секреты успеха
копенгагенских дизайнеров
44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys
Скандинавские стиляги
РУССКИЙ ПЕРЕВОДВремя от времени Скандинавию
объявляют центром передовой моды
и самых перспективных дизайнеров
мужской одежды, однако вопрос о
том, какой же город можно назвать
столицей скандинавского стиля все
еще остается открытым. Многие
дизайнеры склоняются к мысли, что
таким городом является Стокгольм,
ведь именно здесь сосредоточены
такие популярные бренды, как
H&M, Acne или Gothenburg.
Однако, если речь заходит об
инновационной и яркой мужской
одежде, то датчанам тут нет равных.
Копенгаген подарил Европе
наиболее выдающихся дизайнеров
мужской одежды: от знаменитого
Хенрика Вибскова до Никласа
Кунца, – восходящей звезды
модной индустрии. Первая полная
коллекция Кунца для сезона
осень-зима 2013/2014 черпает свое
вдохновение в спортивном стиле
и культуре хип-хоп. Коллекция
уже успела завоевать немало
поклонников по всему миру, и
одним из них стал кумир дизайнера
– репер Кендрик Ламар.
«Soulland» – еще один
дизайнерский бренд, которому
удалось добиться стремительного
успеха. Его история началась в
2002 году, когда Сайлас Адлер
решил создать серию футболок на
скейтбордную тематику. Вскоре
небольшие серии превратились в
полноценные коллекции, созданные
с применением первоклассных
материалов и сочетающие элементы
99
globalblue.com
100
классического, современного
и уличного стиля. Изделия
дизайнера являются воплощением
копенгагенской эстетики,
как говорит Адлер: «простой,
рациональной и удобной».
Вдохновением для последней
коллекции дизайнера весна-
лето 2014 стала архитектурная
школа Баухаус. Как заметил
Адлер, «Баухаус вероятно была
основной школой, повлиявшей
на формирование современной
архитектуры и дизайна.
Ее абстрактные формы и
геометрические фигуры заняли
центральное место в моей
коллекции весна-лето 2014». Хоть
Адлер и не является датчанином,
но вырос и долгое время жил он
именно в Дании и это не могло не
повлиять на его творчество. «Я
хорошо знаю Данию и Копенгаген.
Жизнь здесь вдохновляет меня во
многих отношениях», – говорит
он. Особенностью коллекции
стали масштабные принты
и фото коллажи с масками,
геометрическими фигурами и
фрагментами архитектурных
элементов, характерных для
датской традиции.
Выдающееся мастерство и
простота исполнения всегда были
ключевыми нотами скандинавского
стиля. Это же в полной мере
относится и к местному образу
жизни. Датский бренд «Wood
Wood», основанный в тоже время,
что и «Soulland», очередной пример
датской практичности в моде.
Коллекциям марки свойственны
характерные черты скандинавского
стиля, такие как удобство и
комфорт, проще говоря, настоящая
одежда для настоящих мужчин.
Благодаря тому, что многие бренды
уделяют много внимания образу
жизни, привычному для многих
европейцев, их коллекции далеко
не ограничиваются подиумными
показами, но имеют большой
коммерческий успех. Так,
скандинавские коллекции Wood
Wood можно найти в семи магазинах
марки в Дании, Германии, Австрии
и России. Бутики мужской одежды,
такие как Goods также имеют
в запасе большой ассортимент
тщательно подобранных изделий
современных скандинавских
брендов, включая Dana Lee, House of
Billiam, Norse Projects и YMC.
Стремительная эволюция
датской мужской одежды не
могла пройти незамеченной мимо
дизайнеров и последователей моды.
Начиная с 2001 года коренной
житель Копенгагена и основатель
марки Shamballa Мэдс Корнеруп
совместно со своим братом
Миккелем создает очаровательные
браслеты, ожерелья, запонки и
кольца. Сегодня украшения марки
покорили практически весь мир,
а браслет «Шамбала» стал хитом
современной моды. При этом, братья
твердо уверены в том, что именно
копенгагенцы стоят в авангарде
скандинавского стиля: «Мужское
население Копенгагена интересуется
модой не меньше женского, если
даже не больше. Это потрясающее
место для формирования мужской
моды и мужчины прилагают для
этого немало усилий. В результате
получается очень непринужденно,
естественно и стильно».
101
Дания и ее скандинавские соседи
являются пионерами эко-моды.
Дэвид Хэлквист встретился с
некоторыми из ее представителей
Дания, как впрочем и другие
страны скандинавского региона,
уже многие годы славится своей
минималистичной и сдержанной
модой, а также предметами
интерьера и технологиями. Однако
любой, кто следит за развитием
модной индустрии в Швеции и
Дании, мог заметить, что местные
бренды уже давно не предлагают
заурядную монохромную одежду
и деним. За последние годы
50: Green Light
Зеленый свет
Так что поклонникам
современной европейской моды
обязательно стоит обратить свой
взор на скандинавские страны,
и в особенности на Копенгаген,
доказавший свое право называться
столицей стильной и современной
мужской моды.
henrikvibskov.com,
nicklaskunz.com, soulland.com,
woodwood.dk, goodscph.com,
shamballajewels.com
скандинавский стиль стал гораздо
разнообразнее и насыщеннее,
а в центре внимания оказалась
экологичная классика. «В нашем
социально-демократическом
обществе установились очень
глубокие традиции – мы привыкли
нести ответственность не только
за общество, но и за окружающую
среду, объясняет Йонас Эдер-
Хансен, директор по развитию
Датского института моды.
Политика социального равенства,
справедливых условий труда и
охраны окружающей среды была
внедрена в наше законодательство
еще несколько десятилетий назад
и за это время стала частью наших
традиций, наших ценностей и
ответственности». Дания всегда
была ведущей страной в вопросах
экологии.
Такого способа мышления и
работы придерживаются многие
датские бренды, включая массовых
производителей и независимых
дизайнеров. Немногим странам
удалось убедить столь же
значительное число покупателей в
том, что классическая мода отнюдь
не обязана ассоциироваться с
бежевым цветом и скучной одеждой,
и что главный акцент должен
ставиться именно на дизайн. «Очень
важно осознать, что потребители
не будут покупать товар только
потому, что он экологичный и
натуральный – вы должны создать
нечто действительно актуальное, то
что будет отвечать потребностям
клиента», – говорит Кьетил Аас,
соучредитель бренда мужской
одежды Armoire d’Homme. Для
датской индустрии моды этот факт
globalblue.com
102
является вполне очевидным. По
мнению многих скандинавских
дизайнеров, стиль всегда должен
соответствовать содержанию.
Мари Ворсааэ из компании Aiayu,
специализирующейся на изделиях
из трикотажа, считает, что Дания
уже давно заняла такую позицию:
«В этой части Европы существует
глубокое понимание того, что эко-
мода может быть по-настоящему
качественная, а этика и эстетика
могут вполне мирно сосуществовать
бок о бок».
Кьетил Аас полагает, что
подобное «экологическое»
мышление было присуще
скандинавским дизайнерам с самого
начала. «Качество всегда имело
большое значение в скандинавской
традиции дизайна. В то же время,
мы привыкли ориентироваться на
так называемую «демократичную
моду», предполагающую ценовую
доступность для покупателей.
Сочетание этих двух факторов
может объяснить, почему многие
местные дизайнеры выбирают
именно эко-моду».
Дизайнер Барбара Гонгини,
представившая свою коллекцию
на Неделе моды в Копенгагене,
считает, что успех эко-моды стал
возможен благодаря менталитету
потребителей и их готовности
потратить немного больше
обычного. Одного знакомства
с изделиями дизайнера будет
достаточно, чтобы навсегда
изменить свое отношение к
«экологичной моде». Эстетика
Barbara í Gongini загадочная и
таинственная, напоминающая стиль
Ann Demeulemeester и Rick Owens.
Хотя бренд успевает выпускать
свои коллекции дважды в год, это
никоим образом не отражается
на эко-качестве. «Мы никогда не
следовали скоротечным тенденциям
и не ориентировались на массовое
потребление. Напротив, нашей
основной целью было создание
образов, которые просто не будут
выходить из моды, поэтому мы
упорно работаем, над реализацией
этой идеи при дизайне наших
коллекций», – объясняет модельер.
Любой бренд, работающий
с эко-модой, может столкнуться
с некоторыми трудностями при
реализации глобальной политики.
«Существуют определенные
ограничения при создании 100%
экологичной одежды, но важно
то, что мы поддерживаем это
направление и рано или поздно мы
достигнем своей цели», – говорит
Гонгини, – «также мы разработали
специальную рейтинговую шкалу,
с помощью которой можно из
сезона в сезон оценивать наш
успех; пока что нам еще есть к чему
стремиться». Мари Ворсаае из
датского бренда Aiayu, знаменитого
своими коллекциями одежды из
высококачественных боливийских
тканей, говорит о том, что найти
подходящих производственных
партнеров сегодня довольно
сложно. Особенно это качается
тех ситуаций, когда мы работаем
с «уникальными и одновременно
высококачественными материалами.
Более того, многим производителям
по-прежнему трудно понять,
насколько важно производить
качественный сертифицированный
товар, особенно в условиях
103
повышенного спроса на
качественную продукцию».
Свидетельством очевидного
прогресса, скорее всего, будет
тот момент, когда покупатели
во всем мире будут отдавать
предпочтение высококачественным
и натуральным вещам, нежели
скоротечной моде, а пока что здесь
лидирует только Дания.
armoiredhomme.com, aiayu.com,
barbaraigongini.dk
Стивен Дойг прошелся по
волшебным улочкам копенгагенской
Христиании – уникального
«свободного города»
Несмотря на свою древнюю
архитектуру, сегодняшний
Копенгаген представляет собой
вполне современный город. Казалось
бы, вокруг все те же мощеные улицы
и старинные церквушки, но глянув
на горизонт, невольно замечаешь все
новые и новые строящиеся здания. К
числу современных архитектурных
сооружений Копенгагена можно
смело отнести «Черный Бриллиант»
– новое здание Королевской
библиотеки, вмещающее конференц-
зал и выставочный комплекс, а
также потрясающий Оперный
театр. Что касается жилых домов, то
здесь копенгагенцам в особенности
повезло – их строительство ведется
по самому последнему слову техники
и дизайна. Со времени открытия
статуи Русалочке городской пейзаж
подвергся серьезным изменениям.
Именно поэтому путешествие по
58: Living Free
Жить свободно
сказочным улицам Христиании
представляет еще больший интерес
– резкие границы и чистые линии
городских построек сливаются
здесь воедино, открывая поистине
новый мир.
Целый сказочный мир,
созданный Гансом Христианом
Андерсеном, словно оживает в
Христиании, ее фантастически
разрисованных домах, мастерских,
оранжереях и даже местных
законах, – ведь это своего рода
государство в государстве. íак как
же могло возникнуть подобное
место? Христиания, расположенная
к югу от центра города и изрезанная
множеством небольших каналов,
была когда-то территорией военной
части. В 1971 году 4 сентября
группа свободомыслящих местных
жителей проникла на территорию
заброшенных к тому времени
и поросших зеленью бараков и
стала использовать ее как игровую
площадку для прогулок с детьми.
Значительный вклад в историю
Христиании внес Якоб Лудвигсен,
издававший анархистский журнал
«Hovedbladet», в котором он
провозгласил создание свободного
города: «На сегодняшний день это
крупнейшая попытка построить
новое общество, используя при
этом уже имеющиеся конструкции.
… Целью Христиании является
создание демократического
общества, каждый член которого
будет ответственен за благополучие
всей общины». Одним словом
«община» едва ли можно описать
все великолепие Христиании.
Попав туда чуствуешь себя Алисой,
последовавшей за кроликом и
globalblue.com
104
встретившей настоящую страну
чудес.
Первым что бросается в глаза
– это отсутствие машин, которые
здесь запрещены. Поросшие
плющом здания покрыты яркими
граффити, вдоль дорог растут
тюльпаны и лаванда, а деревянные
домики словно вышли из сказок
братьев Гримм. Некоторые из
этих симпатичных, практически
волшебных построек расположены
прямо напротив узеньких водоемов.
Другие имеют вид уютных землянок
с круглыми окнами, прямо как из
деревушки хоббитов. Здания никому
официально не принадлежат и со
временем должны передаваться
другим гражданам. Вся эта идиллия
и безмятежное существование
охватывает в общей сложности 34
гектара земли.
«Я всегда советую своим
гостям сходить на экскурсию по
Христиании», – говорит Кирстен
Брехнер, владелица отелей Kong
Arthur и Ibsens Hotel. По ее мнению,
этот район значительно обогатил
ландшафт Копенгагена. «Это
отличная возможность увидеть
другую сторону Копенгагена и
простой образ жизни, который
нужно тщательно беречь, учитывая
нынешний прогресс. Попадая
сюда, ты словно чувствуешь,
что оказался в прошлом». Среди
всего прочего Брехнер советует
посетить расположенный рядом с
Христианией художественный музей
Gallopperiet и другие картинные
галереи, особенно Galleri Leonard
– коллективную художественную
мастерскую и выставочную
площадку на улице Sydområdet. В
«CA Butikken» на углу Prinsessegade и
Bådmandsstræde можно приобрести
изящные изделия ручной работы,
в мастерской Q-Smedien на
Mælkevejen полюбоваться на работы
жестянщиков, а вечером послушать
приятную музыку в одном из кафе.
«Мы живем в раю», – именно так
описала Христианию Таня Фокс,
приехавшая сюда еще будучи
ребенком и оставшаяся здесь по сей
день.
christiania.org,
arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur,
arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel,
gallopperiet.dk, kvindesmedien.dk
96: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
Совершая покупки по всему миру,
совершайте их с tax free
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позволят вам сэкономить на
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мира.
Так почему бы не присоединиться к
26 миллионам путешественников,
совершающих покупки tax free с
Global Blue каждый год? Просто
найдите голубую звезду или
спросите о Global Blue и следуйте
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попросите tax free форму Global Blue.
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Возвращаясь домой, в пункте
отправления, пройдите к таможне
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для получения возврата в одном из
наших пунктов.
105
Контакты:
+421 232 111 111
Потратьте минимум 300DK и
сэкономьте до 19% на стоимости
покупок. Пожалуйста, примите
к сведению, что конечная сумма
возврата составит сумму налога
(VAT) минус административная
комиссия. В некоторых пунктах
возврата взымается дополнительная
фиксированная плата за
немедленный возврат наличными.
丹麦男装在世界范围内声名鹊起。听
Ruairidh Pritchard讲述哥本哈根成功故
事背后的秘密
斯堪的纳维亚半岛屡被誉为欧洲最优秀新
晋男装设计师与最酷前沿时尚的摇篮,就哪
座城市可以担起当代斯堪的纳维亚时尚之
都的名号,人们展开了一系列激烈的争论。许
多人坚信非斯德哥尔摩莫属,这里诞生的世
界知名品牌包括H&M和Acne,也有人认为
是哥德堡,因其独特的新颖、嬉皮的潮流风
44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys
倾听男装
美文翻译
格。然而,当谈及充满创意、超凡酷我的男
装,显然丹麦人胜券在握。
哥本哈根培养了一批欧洲最顶尖的男
装设计师,从作品让人垂涎的高街时尚天
才,前卫的Henrik Vibskov,到冉冉升起的
新星,刚毕业不久的Nicklas Kunz。Kunz
的首个完整系列,他的2013/14秋冬系列受
到运动与嘻哈风格的启发,已在全球范围内
吸引了诸多粉丝,其中包括设计师最喜欢的
说唱歌手Kendrick Lamar。
此外还有设计师品牌Soulland,其演
绎的街头风格再度如流星般蹿红。 这个由
设计师Silas Adler创立于2002年的品牌,
从一个简单的概念出发——即由滑板文化
生发出的T恤设计,第一批产品由Adler
和他的朋友们亲手制作。品牌的产品线很
快从T恤扩展到全方位各领域,但街头文
化的神髓仍根植于品牌之中,品牌着重于
将经典与当代风格混搭,并采用最优质的
面料,制造出反映哥本哈根设计美学的产
品——正如Adler所描述的,“简约,人性化
并且耐穿。 ”
该品牌的最新2014春夏系列,是一组
灵感来自包豪斯风格的作品。Adler解释
道,“包豪斯风格可能是对现代建筑和设计影
响最为深远的学派。其抽象表现形式和几何
形的运用,是我们2014春夏2014系列设计
灵感的核心来源。 ”虽然Adler本人并非丹
麦籍,但他在丹麦出生与成长,并深知该国
对于自己设计的影响。“我很了解丹麦和哥
本哈根。在方方面面,我都受到所居住的小
镇与当地生活的启发,”他表示。设计师在系
列中大量运用了招牌式的整体与拼贴印花,
并全部通过手工制作,包含面具、几何图形
与建筑碎片等元素,这些都是建立在关注细
节与扎实工艺的丹麦设计理念之上。
工艺与朴素向来是斯堪的纳维亚风格
的精神核心。这些特性既适用于服装设计,
也适用于生活方式。与Soulland同年成立
的丹麦品牌Wood Wood,是另一个丹麦
功能性时尚的典范,品牌的产品系列着重于
重塑斯堪的纳维亚风格,并制造出舒适、耐
用的时尚——简而言之,就是为真男子汉打
造的服装。正是因为对于生活方式的核心关
globalblue.com
106
丹麦与临近的斯堪的纳维亚地区,已走在可
持续时尚的最前沿。David Hellqvist为我
们拜访了几位先锋设计师
丹麦与其他斯堪的纳维亚地区,因过去几年
中对于极简、环保的时尚设计的推动,并推
进了其在家居与科技领域的发展议程,而闻
名于世。然而最近所有开始追随瑞典和丹麦
50: Green Light
绿色之光
品牌的人都知道,他们的设计已经不止局限
于酷感十足的纯色服装与牛仔系列。斯堪
的纳维亚风格正在变得更为多元,该区域的
关注重点已经转移到生态友好与可持续发
展。"在我们的民主社会中有一个根深蒂固的
传统,就是承担责任——不仅是对人,也是
对环境,” 丹麦时装学院的发展总监Jonas
Eder-Hansen解释道。“平等的社会,公平
的工作机会,以及对环境的保护在几十年前
就已经写入法律,所以用负责任的方式思考
来自于我们的传统与价值观。"在环境保护
事业上,丹麦向来走在世界前列。
这种思维与工作方式在纷繁众多的丹
麦品牌中可见一斑,从商业主流品牌,到前
卫秀场设计师品牌。很少有国家能像丹麦
一样,成功说服那么多的顾客,让他们了解
可持续并不等同于米黄色或乏味的服装,可
持续亦已成为设计中不容置疑的重点。"我
认为最重要的是明白,消费者不会仅仅因为
一件产品的环保性而去购买——你必须创
造出相关的、符合客户需求的产品, "男装
品牌Armoire d’Homme的联合创始人
Kjetil Aas表示。丹麦时尚界似对“光环保
是不够的”了若指掌——风格和内涵必须
齐头并进。正如主打针织的品牌Aiayu的
Marie Worsaae所言,丹麦人获此觉悟已有
好一阵子。“有越来越多的人意识到,可持
注,让许多丹麦品牌的设计实现了成功的零
售。Wood Wood共有有7家分店,在丹麦、
德国、奥地利和俄罗斯等地推广丹麦设计
主导的生活方式。由Soulland背后团队运
营的男装店铺,如Goods也是以哥本哈根
为基地的斯堪的纳维亚男装运动的重要阵
地,这里提供经过精挑细选的产品,来自一
系列当代风、简约风、运动风品牌,如Dana
Lee,House of Billiam,Norse Projects
与YMC。
丹麦男装美学的风格演变并未受到忽
视,设计师与时尚追随者们都开始关注哥本
哈根的时尚成就。 珠宝品牌Shamballa的
创始者,也是哥本哈根本地人的Mads Ko-
rnerup,从2001年起与兄弟Mikkel一起创
作手镯、项链、袖扣、戒指等作品,在世界范
围内大获成功,受无数粉丝追捧。两兄弟都
赞同,哥本哈根的男人不仅定义了斯堪的纳
维亚风格,并一直引领风尚。“这座城市的男
人对于时尚的关注度绝不亚于女性,甚至更
多,”他们解释道。“对于当代男装而言这是
一片神奇之地,这里的男性在穿着中投入大
量精力——并非是刻意强为,而是以一种自
然不做作的姿态。这是一种慵懒但不乏精致
的着装方式。”
要寻找欧洲最佳男装设计与灵感,毫
无疑问要一路向北——显然丹麦已定位于
这片小众市场,并将自身塑造为斯堪的纳维
亚地区的酷感与当代男装之枢纽。
henrikvibskov.com, nicklaskunz.com,
soulland.com, woodwood.dk,
goodscph.com, shamballajewels.com
PH
OTO
: Ka
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a j
Øn
sO
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107
58: Living Free
自由生活
跟随Stephen Doig去哥本哈根独一无二的
魔幻领土“Christiania自由城”一探究竟
21世纪的哥本哈根纵然历史建筑林立,仍
是一座欣欣向荣的摩登都市。在这里,鹅卵
石街道与历史悠久的教堂任被完整保留,但
城市的天际线上布满了为建造新建筑而架
起的吊车。这些引人注目的现代建筑包括光
耀夺目的Black Diamond,这片摩登的河
边建筑群一直延伸到丹麦皇家图书馆,容
纳着礼堂和展览空间,以及气势磅礴的歌
剧院,同时这座城市的居住用楼也充斥着
尖端技术和前卫设计。丹麦小美人鱼所凝
视的风景已与从前大相径庭。这一切让通往
Christiania之路变得更为神奇;随着城市
的刚硬棱角与简洁线条逐渐融化,一个非同
续时尚可以兼顾高品质,道德与美学可以和
谐共存。”她说。
Kjetil Aas认为,这种绿色意识被斯
堪的纳维亚设计师们所继承。“品质对于斯
堪的纳维亚设计传统而言相当重要。与此同
时,斯堪的纳维亚时尚也强调所谓的“民主
方式”,即对所有人展开怀抱。将这两个因素
结合起来,就可以解释为何众多北欧时装设
计师都在关注服装的可持续性。”
在哥本哈根时装周上展示作品的设计
师Barbara í Gongini表示,消费者们已经
全然准备好接受环保时尚的理念,并且愿
意为此多花一点钱。设计师同名品牌可能
会挑战人们对于“生态时尚”的固有认识。
Barbara í Gongini美学是阴暗的、情绪化
的,让人联想到Ann Demeulemeester与
Rick Owens。虽然品牌仍旧遵循时尚届一
年两次的展示周期,但对于持续环保而言,
速度并不是问题。 "我们一般不关注转瞬
即逝的潮流与大众消费。相反我们的核心
理念是塑造可以持久延续的风尚,我们竭
尽所能将这一思想贯穿到设计过程中,”设
计师表示。
任何专注于可持续性发展的品牌,都
可能难以推行全面、360度的透明理念。“要
让产品实现百分百可持续性发展,目前还存
在局限,但我们对于行业努力达成这一点的
支持是相当重要的,” í Gongini说道。“我
们已经开发出一个内部评级系统,在每一季
都用来评估我们的成绩。但即便如此,我们
还没有做到百分之百。” Marie Worsaae来
自以最优质玻利维亚面料演绎丹麦设计的
Aiayu品牌,她发现很难找到志同道合的供
应商伙伴。她说,寻找“那些拥有自身特性但
仍拥有高品质的面料非常困难。不仅如此,
对于制造商而言很难了解认证的重要性,以
及顾客们对于质量日益增长的需求。 ”
然而从许多角度来看,这都是一个“好
问题”——只有当消费者相较于即穿即丢的
快时尚,更愿意选择高品质、可持续的服装
时,我们才会见到实质性的进展——而丹麦
在这方面似乎仍是一路领先。
armoiredhomme.com, aiayu.com,
barbaraigongini.dk
PH
OTO
: CC
BY
2.0
/se
ier
+s
eie
r
globalblue.com
108
寻常的世界展现于世人眼前。
由安徒生童话谱写的童话梦境在
Christiania得以重生,在这片桃花源中到
处是飞驰画栋,以及人们亲手建立的家园和
绿地,这里是脱离丹麦社会运作机制的“自
由城邦”。这样的地区是如何产生的?地处
哥本哈根市中心南部,伫立于错综水域之岸
的Christiania,前身是一处军营。在1971
年9月4日,一群哥本哈根的自由思想人士闯
入了这片区域,将其打造成绿色空间以供孩
子们嬉戏。先锋左翼杂志Hovedbladet的
主编Jacob Ludvigsen,宣布Christiania
成为一片自由空间,并在Hovedbladet杂志
上发表言论“Christiania是属于在此定居
者的空间。这是迄今为止从无到有建立起
一个与周边区域保持联动的社会的最佳契
机。Christiania的目标是建立一个自治社
会,在此每一名个体都会为全社会的福祉担
起责任。”仅仅用“公社”来形容Christiania
则显得过于宽泛。简而言之,这里就像爱丽
丝掉进了特别美妙的兔子洞后发现的仙境。
让Christiania即刻引起人们注意的是
区内不设任何车道——车辆完全不允许进入
这个区域。常春藤覆盖的楼房都装饰着华丽
的壁画,小路两旁的薰衣草和郁金香茁壮成
长,萦绕着宛若格林童话中的小木屋。部分
原住民建造的超现实美丽建筑,俯瞰着附近
的水域。其他的则建于山间,圆形窗户与透
光设计,就像托尔金笔下的中土世界。这些
建筑物并不为谁人所“拥有”,而是建造来日
后传递给他人的。在这片85英亩的地上,孕
育着和平、安宁与不同常规的生活方式。
“我总是建议我的客人们去
Christiania一窥究竟,”同时经营着
Hotel Kong Arthur与Ibsens Hotel的老
板Kirsten Brøchner表示。她认为这片区
域能为哥本哈根之旅平添异彩。“这是窥探
哥本哈根另一面的绝佳途经,可以了解一
种更简单的生活方式,随着城市的不断演
变,这种方式更值得被保留下来。就像是
时光在此倒流。”Brøchner还建议人们从
Christiania这边的主入口,进入Gallop-
periet艺术博物馆,参观不同风格的艺术
画廊,并在同一片氛围中享用咖啡,在位于
当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多家商店
消费时,环球蓝联(Global Blue)购物退
税服务(Tax Free Shopping)为您节约
购物开销。
每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球蓝
(Global Blue)获得购物退税,您怎能错
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家是否提供环球蓝联(Global Blue)服务,
然后遵循我们简单的退税过程:
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格(Global Blue Tax Free Form),并记
得保存小票。
2. 申请退税
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关柜台请他们在您的退税表格上盖章,然后
再到我们的客服柜台领取您的退税款。
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19%的税。请注意:最终退款将包含增值税
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收取一定数额的手续费。
96: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
畅购全球,尊享退税
Sydområdet的艺术家集体工作室与展示空
间Galleri Leonard驻足。人们还可以在位
于Prinsessegade与Bådmandsstræde街交
界处的CA Butikken选购手工艺品。或是
去Mælkevejen街的Q Smedien铁艺工场,
领略让人赞叹的智巧工艺,此处入夜后还有
爵士乐演出可供欣赏。正如从孩童时期就搬
入Christiania,并再未离开过的常住居民
Tanja Fox所言:“我们生活在天堂之中。”
christiania.org,
arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur,
arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel,
gallopperiet.dk, kvindesmedien.dk
109
日本語翻訳
44: Let’s Hear It For The Boys
北のメンズが熱い
デンマークのメンズウェアが急速に世界的
名声を得つつある。このコペンハーゲンのサ
クセスストーリーを、ルーリー・プリチャー
ドが追った。
スカンジナビアは、ヨーロッパきっての新進
メンズウェアデザイナーと洗練を極めた最新
ファッションを生んだ地として再三話題に上
るが、どの都市が「現代スカンジ・スタイル
の都」の称号にふさわしいかについては激
しい論争が交わされている。H&Mやアク
ネ、ヨーテボリといった世界的ブランドを生
み、フレッシュで粋なファッションを特徴と
するストックホルムを押す人は多いが、革新
的で断然クールなメンズウェアといえばデン
マークが明らかに抜きん出ている。
コペンハーゲンは、アヴァンギャルド
な作品が大人気のヘンリック・ヴィブスコフ
などの高級ファッションデザイナーから、学
校を卒業したばかりのニクラス・クンツとい
った新人まで、ヨーロッパで最も洗練された
メンズウェアデザイナーを輩出してきた。ク
ンツの初コレクションである2013・14年秋
冬物はスポーツウェアやヒップホップをヒン
トとしたものだったが、既に世界中でファン
を獲得している。クンツが大ファンのラッパ
ー、ケンドリック・ラマーもその一人だ。
ストリートウェアの大舞台に流星のご
とく現れた一つのデザイナーブランドが、ソ
ウルランドだ。デザイナーのサイラス・アドラ
ーが2002年に設立したこのブランドは、「ス
ケートボード文化から発想を得たTシャツ」
というコンセプトから出発している。アドラ
ーが友人のために作ったのが始まりだ。ま
もなくTシャツから完全なコレクションへと
拡大したが、ストリートウェアのルーツは現
在も持ち続けている。古典的なスタイルと現
代的なスタイルをミックスすることに重点を
置き、最上の素材を使ってコペンハーゲン
のデザインの美学を体現した服を創ってい
る。アドラーの言葉を借りれば、「シンプル
で知性的で着やすい」服だ。
同ブランドの最新作は、バウハウスか
らインスピレーションを得た2014年春夏カ
タストロフィー・コレクションだ。アドラーい
わく、「バウハウスは、近代建築や近代デザ
インに最も重要な影響を与えたといってい
いでしょう。その抽象的な形や幾何学的な
形状が、2014年春夏コレクションのデザイ
ンのインスピレーションとして中心的な役割
を果たしたのは確かです。」アドラー自身は
デンマーク人ではないが、この国で育ち、こ
こで暮らす彼は、それが自分のデザインプ
ロセスに及ぼす影響に気づいている。「デ
ンマークとコペンハーゲンを強く意識してい
ます。この街とここでの暮らしは、実に豊富
なインスピレーションの源になっています」
という。コレクションの中心は特徴的なオー
ルオーバーとコラージュプリント。マスクや幾
何学模様、建築物の断片を、モチーフに、デ
ィテールへのこだわりと真面目な職人技と
globalblue.com
110
いうデンマークデザインの基本に忠実に全
て手作りしたものだ。
職人の技とシンプルさは常にスカンジ
ナビアンスタイルの鍵であり、ファッション
デザインとライフスタイル全体に通じる特徴
だ。ソウルランドと同年に設立されたデン
マークのブランド「ウッドウッド」も、デンマ
ークの機能的ファッションの好例で、そのコ
レクションはスカンジナビアンスタイルを洗
練して心地よく着やすいファッションを創造
することを主眼にしている。簡単に言えば、
本物の男のための本物の服だ。デンマーク
ブランドの多くがデザインだけでなく小売り
でも成功しているのは、そうしたライフスタ
イル全体を見据えているから。ウッドウッド
は、デンマークのデザイン主導のライフスタ
イルを国内だけでなくドイツ、オーストリア、
ロシアにも広げ、7店舗を展開している。ダ
ナ・リー、ハウス・オブ・ビリアム、ノース・プ
ロジェクト、YMCといったストリートウェア
にインスピレーションを得た現代的でシン
プルなブランドのコレクションから選りすぐ
った品を揃えるグッズのようなメンズウェア
ストアも、コペンハーゲンを拠点とするスカ
ンジナビアンメンズウェアの飛躍に欠かせ
ない。
デンマークのメンズウェア美学の進化
は人目を惹き、コペンハーゲンスタイルの名
声はデザイナーにもファッション愛好家にも
聞こえるようになっている。コペンハーゲン
生まれで宝飾品ブランド「シャンバラ」の創
設者マッズ・コーナップは、2001年から弟の
ミケルと共にブレスレット、ネックレス、カフ
リンク、リングを作って来たが、シャンバラは
今や各国にファンをもつ世界的なブランド
だ。コーナップ兄弟は、コペンハーゲンのデ
ザインはスカンジナビアンスタイルを明確に
示しているだけでなく、その先端を行ってい
るという意見で一致している。「この街の男
性はファッションに対して、女性に対する以
上にとは言わないまでも、女性に対してと同
じくらい気を配っている」という。「現代メン
ズウェアにとっては素晴らしい街で、男は着
るものに相当に気を使います。それも、いか
50: Green Light
グリーンファッション
デンマークとその隣国のスカンジナビア諸国
は、持続可能なファッションの最先端を行っ
ている。デイヴィッド・ヘルクヴィストがパイ
オニア的なデザイナーに会った。
デンマークをはじめとするスカンジナ
ビア諸国は、ミニマリズム的でよく考えられ
たファッションとホームウェアやテクノロジー
の面でも主張ある商品を生み出すことで有
名になったが、スウェーデンやデンマークの
ブランドの最近の動向を追っている人であれ
にも頑張ったというお洒落ではなく、実にさ
り気ない。肩の力を抜きつつ洗練された装
いです。」
ヨーロッパ随一のメンズウェアデザイ
ンとインスピレーションを求めるなら、見る
方角は間違いなく北だ。スカンジナビアのク
ールで現代的なメンズウェアの都として、デ
ンマークは確たるニッチを築いた。
henrikvibskov.com、
nicklaskunz.com、
soulland.com、woodwood.dk、
goodscph.com、shamballajewels.com
111
ば、スカンジナビアファッションがもはやク
ールなモノクロの服とデニムだけではないこ
とを知っている。この地域でもスタイルが多
様化し、それにつれて焦点がエコフレンドリ
ーで持続可能なファッションへと移っている
のだ。「私たちの社会民主主義的な社会で
は、責任という観念が伝統として深く根付い
ています。その責任は人だけでなく環境に対
しても同じことです」と、デンマークファッシ
ョン協会の開発ディレクター、ヨーナス・エ
ーダーハンセンは説明する。「社会的平等、
公正な職場環境、環境保護が法制化された
のはもう数十年も昔のことで、責任ある考え
方が私たちの伝統や価値観に一部になって
いるのです。」デンマークは、ことエコロジー
に関しては常に先を見てきた国だ。
こういった考え方、働き方は、商業的
な大衆消費者向けブランドも先端的なファ
ッションショーデザイナーも同様に、デンマ
ークのブランドの多くに見られる。「持続可
能なファッション」イコール「ベージュのつま
らない服」ではないことを、これほど多くの
消費者に納得させてきた国は極めて稀だ。
これはデザインを重視してきたからに他なら
ない。「消費者は持続可能だからというだけ
では物を買わないということを悟ることが大
変重要です。今日的で顧客のニーズを満た
す商品を作らなければ駄目なのです」という
のは、メンズウェアブランド「アルモアール・
ドム」の共同創設者キエティル・オースだ。
デンマークのファッション産業は、エコフレ
ンドリーなだけでは不十分でスタイルと中身
を両立しなければならないことを、重々認識
しているようだ。ニットウェア中心のブランド
「Aiayu(アイアユ)」のマリー・ヴォーソー
によれば、そういった認識はデンマークには
しばらく前からあった。「持続可能なファッ
ションと質の良さの合体、倫理と美学の同時
追求が可能だということに対する理解が深
まっている」という。
キエティル・オースは、このグリーン意
識はスカンジナビアのデザイナーに内在す
ると信じている。「スカンジナビアのデザイ
ンの伝統は、常に品質をとても大事にしてき
ました。それと同時に、スカンジ・ファッショ
ンはいわゆる『民主的なファッション』であ
ることも重視しています。つまり、誰にでもア
クセスできるファッションです。この二要素
が、スカンジナビアのファッションデザイナ
ーの多くが持続可能性を追求する理由かも
しれない。
コペンハーゲン・ファッションウィーク
に出展しているバーバラ・イ・ゴンジニは、
環境に優しいファッションに取り組もうとい
う人が多いのは、結局は消費者の気持ち次
第、少々高くても買う気のある消費者の存在
があってこそではないかという。自身の名を
冠したブランドは、「エコファッションはこん
なルックス」という消費者の既成概念をくつ
がえすものかもしれない。彼女の美学は暗
くムーディで、アン・ドゥムルメステールやリ
ック・オウエンスを思わせる。このブランドは
年に二度のコレクションサイクルを守ってい
るが、このテンポがエコクオリティを維持す
る上で問題になることはない。「当社は一般
に、流行り廃りの速いトレンドや大衆消費動
向は気にしません。むしろ、長持ちするスタ
イルを作ることを真髄としていて、その心構
えをデザインプロセスに反映させるよう努力
を尽くしています」と彼女は説明する。
持続可能性を重視するブランドはいず
れも、360度をカバーする全面的なエコ方針
の実施は難しいと感じているかもしれない。
「100パーセント持続可能な商品の実現に
はまだ制約があるものの、ファッション産業
がいずれその目標を達成できるよう支援し
ていくことが大事」だと、イ・ゴンジニはいう。
「当社では、シーズンごとに達成度を測るた
めの社内評価システムを導入しましたが、目
標達成はまだです。」アイアユではデンマー
クのデザインをボリビア産の最高級生地を
使って商品化しているが、ふさわしい製造パ
ートナーを見つけるのが難しいとマリー・ヴ
ォーソーはいう。これは特に「ユニークかつ
高品質な素材について言えることです。さら
に、より良い品質を求める消費者が増え、品
質証明が重要になっていることを製造者に
理解させるのが依然一苦労」だという。
globalblue.com
112
58: Living Free
自由に生きる
コペンハーゲンにあるユニークな「フリ
ータウン」、クリスティアーナの不思議な世
界を、スティーヴン・ドイグが歩いた。
歴史的建物はあっても、21世紀のコペ
ンハーゲンは繁栄する近代都市だ。石畳の
通りや古い教会は残っているが、街のスカイ
ラインには建築工事のクレーンが点在してい
る。目立った現代建築の一つはブラックダイ
アモンドだ。デンマーク王立図書館を川沿い
に増築した近代的な建物で、講堂や展示ス
ペースもある。巨大なオペラハウスも堂々た
る近代建築だ。さらに、この街の住宅は先端
のテクノロジーとデザインがふんだんに取り
入れられている。人魚姫の目に映る風景は
劇的に変化した。だからこそ、クリスティアー
ナの門をくぐった時に広がる風景が一層魅
力的に映る。都市のシャープな輪郭やスッキ
リとした線は溶け去り、まったくの別世界が
現れるのだ。
ハンス・クリスチャン・アンデルセンが
築いた豊かなおとぎ話の歴史が、クリスティ
アーナでは生きているかのようだ。ここは、
幻想的に彩られた建物や工芸家の工房、緑
地が連なる迷宮の世界で、デンマーク社会
の通常の法律の枠外で機能する「フリータ
ウン」だ。そもそもどうしてこんな一角がで
きたのだろうか。コペンハーゲン市街地の
南、無数に張り巡らされた水路の岸にある
クリスティアーナは、もともとは陸軍兵舎だ
った。1971年9月4日、コペンハーゲンの自由
思想家グループが空き家になっていた兵舎
に侵入し、雑草が生い茂る緑地を子供の遊
び場として使い始めたのが発端だ。クリステ
ィアーナを自治区と宣言したのは、極左雑誌
Hovedbladetの編集者だったヤコブ・ルード
ヴィクセンと言われている。彼は同誌で、「ク
リスティアーナは入植者の土地である。現存
する建物を組み入れつつ、社会を一から築く
ことのできるこれまでになく大きなチャンス
である。… クリスティアーナの目的は、一人
一人がコミュニティ全体の福祉に責任を持つ
自治社会の創出である」と書き、出版した。
しかし、クリスティアーナを単なるコミューン
としてしまうのは、あまりにも大雑把だ。無
PH
OTO
: CC
BY
1.0
/Br
un
O J
ar
gO
T
とはいえ、これはいろいろな意味で「良
い問題」だ。消費者が使い捨てのファッショ
ンでなく高品質で持続可能な衣料を選ぶか
らこそ、進歩があるのだから。デンマークは
その進歩の先端を行っているようだ。
armoiredhomme.com、
aiayu.com、barbaraigongini.dk
113
96: When You Shop The
World, Shop Tax Free
海外でのお買い物が 免税に
邪気な言い方をすれば、ここに足を踏み入れ
るのは、アリスが不思議の国を発見した時の
ように、とびきり素敵なウサギ穴を落ちてい
くのに似ている。
まず驚くのは、クリスティアーナには車
の通れる道がないこと。車は禁止されている
のだ。蔦のからまる建物はふんだんな壁画
で飾られ、通路脇にはラベンダーの植え込
みが続き、グリム童話に登場する田舎屋のよ
うな木造の建物沿いにはチューリップが生え
ている。住民が建てたそんな愛らしくて現実
離れした建物は、一部は岸辺にある。一方、
丘の斜面を掘り込む形で建てられたものも
ある。魅力溢れる丸窓の家々は、まるでトー
ルキンの指輪物語のホビット庄を思わせる。
建物は「所有」の対象というより、いずれは
他者に受け継がれていくことを前提に建てら
れている。85エーカーにわたる平和で静け
さに包まれた別生活の場。
「宿泊客にはいつも、クリスティアー
ナを覗かれるようお薦めしています」と、コ
ングアーサーホテルとイプセンホテルのオー
ナー、 キルスティン・ブロクナーはいう。
この地区を訪れることで、コペンハーゲン
体験がより豊かなものになると思うからだ。
「コペンハーゲンのもう一つの顔、シンプ
ルライフを見るにはもってこいです。街が変
わるにつれて、この地区の保全がますます
重要になっています。過去にスリップした
かのような気分になれますよ。」ブロクナー
のお薦めは、クリスティアーナの正門脇に
あるGallopperiet 美術館を訪れ、様々な
アートギャラリーを覗き、コーヒーを飲みな
がら雰囲気を堪能し、Sydområdetにある
アーティストの共同工房兼展示スペースの
ギャラリー・レオナルドに立ち寄るというも
の。PrinsessegadeとBådmandsstrædeの
交差点にあるCA Butikkenで手工芸品を
買い、MælkevejenにあるQ-Smedien鉄細
工工房で職人の技に眼を見張り、アフター
ダークは夜更けのジャズに浸ろう。子供の頃
にクリスティアーナに移り住んで以来離れた
ことがないというターニャ・フォックスは、長
年暮らしてきたこの土地を「天国のよう」と
グローバル・ブルーの免税ショッピング制度
をご利用いただきますと、世界各地の有名シ
ョッピング街にある27万軒を超える加盟店
でのお買い物がお得になります。
年間2600万人が楽しまれているグローバ
ル・ブルーの免税ショッピングを、貴方もぜ
ひご利用ください。手続きは簡単。まず、青
い星を目印に加盟店を探します。星が見当た
らなければ、店員に「グローバル・ブルー?」
とお尋ねください。あとは、次のステップを
踏むだけです。
1.お買い物
お買い物をした際は、必ずグローバル・ブル
ーの免税書類(タックスフリー・フォーム)を
受け取ってください。レシートを保管するの
も忘れずに。
2.還付請求
ご帰国の際は、まず出国地の税関でレシー
トに承認印を押してもらってから、グローバ
ル・ブルーのカスタマーサービスデスクで払
い戻しを受けます。
お問い合わせ:
+421 232 111 111
300DKK以上のお買い物をすれば、購
入価格の最高19%の払い戻しが受けられ
ます。最終的な払い戻し額は、付加価値税
(VAT)合計から事務手数料を差し引いた
金額となりますので、その旨ご了承ください。
なお、現金での即日還付が必要な場合は、
還付の場所によって、各タックスフリーフォ
ームにつき固定の追加手数料をとられる場
合があります。
断言した。
christiania.org、
arthurhotels.dk/hotel-kong-arthur、
arthurhotels.dk/ibsens-hotel、
gallopperiet.dk、
kvindesmedien.dk
114 | PRODUCTS
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