SHIPWRECKS AND TREASURE ALONG

VENEZUELA’S CARIBBEAN COAST

By

DONALD A. GODDARD

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SHIPWRECKS & TREASURE ALONG

VENEZUELA'S CARIBBEAN COAST The author presents a brief description of some of the more interesting sites favorable for nautical archaeological studies. Not only will future work on the shipwrecks uncover treasures and valuable artifacts, but also divulge aspects of colonial history that belong to Venezuela's heritage (May, 1999).

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The author getting ready to go down in a Mark V

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Donald Goddard began diving with his brothers at the age of eleven around the many islands located between Puerto La Cruz and Margarita in Eastern Venezuela. Scuba diving and fishing in what can be considered one of the most beautiful and spectacular coastal regions in the Caribbean, he developed a keen interest for the marine environment. Not only is this region important for its natural beauty, but also for its colonial, historical heritage. Growing up along this coast dotted with Spanish fortresses such as those on El Morro de Lecherías, in Cumaná, Punta Araya, and on the island of Margarita, an awareness of colonial archaeology was awakened. After completing his studies in geology at Florida State University, he returned home and began working in the petroleum industry and later in the Department of Marine Geology in the Venezuelan Geological Survey (MEM). Between 1968 and 1974, during his work along the coast, on the continental shelf, and on the offshore islands he encounters several colonial shipwrecks. He welcomed the opportunity to dedicate some of his time to diving on the wrecks. Unfortunately, the geological projects on the shallow reefs did not contemplate nautical archaeological studies. However, some notes were taken, the locations of the sites recorded, and a serious interest in nautical archaeology developed. Dr. Goddard later studied at University College London where he obtained M.Sc. and Ph.D. degrees in marine geology and geophysics. During his four years in London, he joined the Nautical Archaeological Society and spent long hours in the British Maritime Museum in pursuit of his hobby in nautical archaeology. Upon completion of his postgraduate studies he returned to Venezuela to continue working in the petroleum industry for twelve years in exploration and production. Donald Goddard is well known in Venezuela as a petroleum geologist and for his important contribution to marine geology on the country's coastal region. At present, he is a petroleum researcher at Louisiana State University, a consultant on petroleum projects in South America, and also dedicates his spare time investigating Venezuela's colonial maritime heritage.

1970

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CONTENTS Page No. List of Illustrations 4 1. Introduction 5 2. Brief History of Venezuela (1498-1908) 8 3. General Geographic and Climatic Setting of Venezuela 10 4. Shipwrecks in Western Venezuela 13 Maracaibo Adicora La Vela de Coro Punta Aguide Shoals 5. Shipwrecks on Venezuela's Islands 18 Isla de Aves (15° 42' N.Lat. & 63° 38' W.long.) Las Islas de Aves (Sotavento) Los Roques La Orchila La Tortuga 6. Shipwrecks on the Central Coast 24 Puerto Cabello La Guaira 7. Shipwrecks in Eastern Venezuela 27 Barcelona/Puerto la Cruz Caracas Shoals Cumaná/Punta Araya Margarita/Coche/Cubagua 8. References Cited 32

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece: A Shipwrecked Galleon. Castillo de Araya, an important Eastern Venezuelan colonial fortress. 6 Venezuela's Caribbean coast showing the locations of the colonial shipwrecks. 7 The area around Margarita, Coche and Cubagua islands 8 The physical map of Venezuela. 10 Bahia de Cata located along the Central Coastal Range. 11 Spanish Treasure Fleet 12 Map of the region around Lake Maracaibo. 13 Castillo San Carlos, a fortress built at the entrance to Lake Maracaibo. 14 Location of shipwrecks from Paraguana Peninsula to Cabo Codera. 15 Fishing boats anchored in the Bay of Aguide. 16 The green turtle Chelonia mydas. 17 Ballast from the shipwrecks on Aves Island. 18 The exact location of Aves Island, west of Dominica in the Caribbean. 18 A map of Aves Island showing the evidence of a shipwreck. 19 Aves de Sotavento showing the location of the wreck of the French fleet of 1678. 20 A few of the islands in the Los Roques Archipelago. 22 Location of Tortuga Island in relation to Barcelona and Margarita. 23 The Central Coastal Region showing Puerto Cabello and La Guaira. 24 Puerto Cabello and surrounding coral keys. 25 Sketch by the Author of La Guaira from the sea in 1800. 26 Detail of the region between Puerto La Cruz and the Araya Peninsula. 27 Sketch by the author of the Bahia de Pozuelo and surroundings. 28 Photograph of the ruins of Castillo de Araya, a fortress protecting the peninsula. 29 Location of the shipwrecks around Margarita, Coche and Cubagua Islands. 30

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1. INTRODUCTION Until the early 1940's, before the construction of an oil tanker loading terminal, Puerto la Cruz in Eastern Venezuela was a sleepy fishing village in the well-protected Bahia de Pozuelos. It was very exciting and enjoyable growing up here among the local fishermen between 1946 and 1966. As youngsters we dedicated most of our free time to fishing, spear fishing and scuba diving. The many islands (El Morro, La Borracha, Borrachita, Chimana Grande, Chimana Chica, Isla De Plata), reefs and shoals located between Puerto la Cruz and Margarita Island offered spectacular sites for developing an interest in the marine environment. My first experience with Spanish colonial history began on the Morro de Lecherías. Before 1950 this large limestone island was separated from the mainland by a small tidal channel. We would swim across the channel holding our shoes above the water, and once on the island hike to the top, to a small Spanish fortress located on the southern end. To the south, at a distance of 6 kilometers was Barcelona, the provincial capitol. Looking westward toward Puerto Piritu one could imagine Spanish galleons at anchor below. This fortress protected the entrance to the Bahia de Pozuelos, and also the shallow anchorage in Lecherias next to the mouth of the Neveri River. Once an island, El Morro was later connected to the mainland at Lecherías, the result of housing, hotel and tourist development that began in the late 1960s. Today, Puerto la Cruz together with Barcelona and Lecherias comprise a single booming petroleum and tourist city. Our routine diving expeditions around the many islands would sometimes carry us as far as the Caracas shoals located three hours northeast by small boat from Puerto la Cruz. South of the shoals in a quiet bay on Isla Caracas, we found our first wreck. It consisted of a small contemporary (1940's) cargo ship. Diving inside the rusted hulk and on the outside some forty feet down to the bronze propeller was quite a thrill in those early days. We would spend hours trying to figure out how we could remove what we considered an important treasure. This dream was never accomplished, and to this day the propeller is still there. It is no wonder since it would cost more to retrieve it than what it is worth. In the early 1960's we made ferry boat trips from Puerto la Cruz to Margarita Island with our SCUBA gear with plans of diving for pearls. We knew of their existence from our history books, and the value given to them by the early conquistadors. Since we could not find any (they were over harvested by this time) we always ended up buying them from local fishermen in the principal town of Porlamar. On Margarita we would go to the Spanish fortresses in Pampatar, La Asuncion and Juan Griego, and relive the history of the Spanish colonial times. On its route to Margarita, the ferry traveled in front of Punta Araya where the large Araya Spanish fortress could be seen at a distance. Our history books describe this location as the principal protection for the town of Cumana five nautical miles to the south on the mainland. Therefore, one could imagine cannons being fired from the fortress and sinking pirate ships that sailed nearby. As we passed on the north side of the island of Cubagua, I would remember the island's historical importance going back to the earliest days of Columbus's discovery.

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Once more your imagination would take you back to those days of early settlements, Spanish ships and treasures.

Later, from 1968 until 1974, I had the opportunity to work as a marine geologist along Venezuela's coast. Projects included describing its geological features, surveying the shallow waters on the continental shelf, and studying the reefs on the offshore islands. Most of the coast from Cumaná in the east, to Cabo San Roman on the peninsula of Paraguaná in the west, was surveyed. The work was accomplished with the help of local fishermen from small coastal villages, and the Venezuelan Navy. The fishermen would tell me stories of how their nets would get caught on submerged objects such as anchors and cannons and would occasionally come up with a cannon ball. Naturally, I would dive and investigate these reports. On several occasions I was able to hitch rides on the Navy's H-01, an old minesweeper commissioned for maintaining navigational lights on Venezuela's coast and islands. Soon, an interest in nautical archaeology was developed between a few navy captains and myself, as we became aware of the existence of a number of shipwrecks. However, because of insufficient time and lack of economic funding, we were unable to carry out our plans to map and photograph all the sites we had located. Our idea at the time was to do the initial work of documenting the sites, but not remove any of the artifacts until specialized laboratories for their preservation could be built. The plan was to construct them at several museums (Maracaibo, Coro, Naval Academy in Catia La Mar near Caracas, Cumaná). We also needed to find among the Venezuelan

Spanish Fortress at Araya

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archaeologists one or two who could be interest in the field of nautical archaeology. As you read this book about just a few of the shipwrecks known to exist on Venezuela's Caribbean coast, you will observe that most of the sites are located in very shallow water, less than fifteen feet in depth. For this reason, many Venezuelan sports divers have already been able to reach a few of these in the last ten years. Fortunately, the more important wrecks are located on the rough, windward side of islands far from the coast. This condition will allow only a few weeks during the year for diving on them. Nevertheless, in comparison to known shipwrecks in the Florida Keys, those on the US Atlantic coast, and those on Caribbean islands such as Puerto Rico and Hispanola, the shipwrecks on Venezuela's Caribbean coast are practically unknown to the diver or treasure hunter.

The laws of Venezuela clearly establish that the artifacts and treasures on its islands and in its territorial waters belong to the Nation. However, responsible diving for pleasure and photography on the wrecks is a worthwhile adventure that can be enjoyed by those with strong swimming and advanced diving skills. One of the objectives of this book is to rekindle an interest in Venezuela's nautical archaeological heritage. Perhaps the brief descriptions given here may be used as a guide for much more detailed research on the individual shipwrecks. Hopefully, collaboration between the Venezuelan Navy, local museums, universities, a few dedicated citizens of financial means, and outside technical help (British Maritime Museum, Smithsonian Institution) will lead to important marine archaeological excavations in the future.

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2. BRIEF HISTORY OF VENEZUELA (1498-1908) It was not until Christopher Columbus's third voyage to the New World in 1498 that he first sighted the mainland of what is today South America. This occurred in the vicinity of the islands of Margarita, Coche and Cubagua. Columbus found the islands to be inhabited by the Guaiqueri Indians who wore beautiful pearls around their necks (margarita is the Greek word for pearl). A year later in 1499 the Indians showed the Spanish explorers the location of the pearl oysters in the shallow waters off the island of Cubagua. Spain's fascination with these pearls led to the establishment of the first settlement in the New World on Cubagua in 1516. Not only did the settlers find pearls, but also tar. The Indians had found an oil seep on the island and would use the substance to caulk their canoes. The name Nueva Cadiz, was given to the first village on the island. However, a few years later an earthquake destroyed it. Ruins of this settlement can be observed in the shallow waters on its eastern tip. Between 1498 and 1520 the entire Caribbean coast from Lake Maracaibo to Cumaná was explored. It was during this period that Americo Vespucci, an Italian geographer, made his way up the Rio Limon from Lake Maracaibo to what is today Sinamaica. After seeing the houses on stilts belonging to the Guajiro Indians, it reminded him of the City of Venice, and therefore he gave the name of Little Venice or "Venezuela" to this new Spanish colony.

The Spanish Crown conducted all future expeditions and settlements throughout the 16th and 17th centuries. In 1528 Carlos I of Spain and self declared Emperor

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of the Roman Empire chose the German Welsers, a powerful banking house of the time, to settle and manage Western Venezuela as they liked. This mandate was responsible for the development of Maracaibo at the entrance of the Lake, and of Coro at the foot of the Paraguaná Peninsula. However, it terminated in 1546 after eighteen years of power. After 1550, the settlements continued to be established along the coast and inland. It was not until 1567 that Caracas, today's capital city, was founded in the mountains up from the coast by Diego de Losada. The process of colonization continued throughout the 17th century. It was not until the 18th century that Spain's colony in Venezuela began to take on some semblance of administrative organization. The "Capitania General de Venezuela " was the name given in 1777 to the unification of the four existing provinces (Nueva Andalusia, Merida, Maracaibo, Guyana). They were still governed independently by representatives of the King of Spain for another eleven years until Caracas was designated as the administrative capitol in 1786. The principal port for this center was located down on the coast at La Guaira, a few miles to the north. Spain continued to rule over Venezuela during the 18th century even though this colony lacked the economic and political importance of richer ones such as those on the Pacific side of South America, in Central America, and a few of the larger Caribbean islands. Beginning the 19th century, the Venezuela colony began to feel the influence of other European countries, and its young leaders became infected by the results of the American and French revolutions. Such conditions as the widespread discontent felt by the colonists toward the Spanish rule, and the changing political situation between France and Spain, are factors that fired the independence movement. Venezuela formerly declared its independence from Spain in 1810. Following a long struggle and under the leadership of Simon Bolivar, independence from Spain was achieved in 1821. From this period, the country can be characterized as one of continuous political strife and unrest for the next eighty-seven years, until 1908. Regional and political factions originated one major Federal War (1859-1863). The constitution of 1864 was an attempt to establish a federal system similar to that of the United States. However, constant minor power struggles existed between powerful local generals (caudillos) who divided the country into more of a feudal system. In 1908, the most powerful of the generals and president of Venezuela Cipriano Castro had to go to Europe for medical reasons. His right hand general and "good friend" Juan Vicente Gomez took over the country during Castro's absence and wrote him a letter telling him not to return to Venezuela. At this time my grandfather, General Francisco Irureta, a caudillo in the Guyana region of Venezuela, and trusted friend of Cipriano Castro, was also forced into exile to nearby Trinidad. Most of Castro's trusted generals suffered similar fates. I terminate the history of Venezuela at this point in 1908 because during the remainder of the 20th century, including Juan Vicente Gomez's dictatorship until1935, a new and completely different historical chapter emerged. Not only was the country unified under a central government, but also the doors were opened to future industrialization. This was initiated by the development of the petroleum industry, one that continues to this day.

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3. GENERAL GEOGRAPHIC AND CLIMATIC SETTING OF VENEZUELA Venezuela is located north of the Equator in the upper northeast corner of South America. Its borders are situated between 1 ° and 12° north latitudes, and between 60° and 73° west longitudes. It covers an area of approximately 916,500 Km2, which is twice the size of California, and about the size of France. It is bordered on the south by Brazil, the west by Colombia, and on the north and east respectively by the Caribbean Sea, and Atlantic Ocean. With a coastline measuring 3700 kilometers, Venezuela has been a natural gateway to North America and Europe throughout its history.

The entire coastline is open to strong northeast trade winds during most of the year. However, there are many islands north of the coast that offer an excellent barrier against hurricanes that develop in the Atlantic and that traditionally strike the Leeward and Windward Islands of the Caribbean. These barriers include the Dutch islands of Aruba, Curaçao and Bonaire, and over seventy Venezuelan islands, some of which are clustered into small groups. North of the mainland and trending west to east, they are the following: Los Monjes in the Gulf of Venezuela; Las Islas de Aves de Sotavento y Barlovento, Los Roques and Orchila, all located directly north of the Central Coastal Range; Tortuga north of the Cariaco Trench; Margarita, Cubagua and Coche north of the Araya Peninsula in eastern Venezuela; La Blanquilla, Los Frailes and Los Testigos to the north and

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northeast of Margarita. Finally, the most remote of Venezuela territorial islands is Isla De Aves (Bird Island) located along the Aves Ridge, 540 kilometers north of Margarita and 200 kilometers west of Dominica. All of these islands have been involved in one way or another in Venezuela's colonial history and were sites for wrecks of 15th to 18th century ships sailing toward northern South America. Since Venezuela is located within the tropical latitudes, only the high Andes Mountains south of the coastal zones have cold temperatures and snow covered peaks all year round. Along the entire east-west length of the coastal areas the climate is hot and humid during most of the year, with temperatures averaging 85° F (30° C). During the rainy season from May to November the temperatures are only slightly cooler. In the west, along the low lying coasts of Zulia and Falcon States, from Maracaibo to Tucacas, the dry, arid climate has resulted in xerophytic vegetation consisting mostly of cactus and short desert shrubs (e.g. Cuji, Divi-Divi). Constantly blowing, strong easterly winds help in the cooling process, and are responsible for many dune fields situated along this stretch of coast. The most splendid of these are Los Medanos De Coro, sand dunes located at the base of the Paraguana Peninsula near the town of Coro. Near shore coastal erosion from strong wave action, and abundant suspended sediment in the seawater are responsible for the scarcity of coral reef growth along the Zulia/Falcon coast. From Tucacas to Higuerote, located east of Caracas, tropical rain forest predominates along a steeply inclined, mountainous region. Clear waters and abundant reefs can be found along this part of the coast. Unlike the Zulia/Falcon coast with its wide, shallow sandy shelf, the central mountainous area plunges rapidly beneath the sea as the narrow shelf drops off into the Bonaire Trough. From Higuerote, near Cabo Codera, past Margarita, and along the Araya-Paria Peninsula, and near Trinidad, the shelf is wide and the shoreline characterized by abundant small bays with sandy beaches overgrown with coconut palms. Coral reefs are abundant in the shallow waters near the shores and surrounding the many islands.

Bahia De Cata

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The hot, humid, climatic conditions, and lack of precious minerals such as gold and silver, typified the Venezuelan coastal colonies. For these reasons, little importance was given to this region, and colonization in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries took place at a fairly slow pace. The inhospitable climate and jungles did not permit the conquistadors to find the "El Dorado" for which they were searching. Nevertheless, the climate was adequate for agricultural purposes, and the first colonist soon began growing sugar cane, coffee, tobacco and cotton in the fertile valleys near the coast. It was not until after Venezuela's independence from Spain in the 19th century that an abundance of alluvial diamonds and gold fields were discovered and developed in the region of Guyana inland from the coast.

Spanish Treasure Fleet

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4. SHIPWRECKS IN WESTERN VENEZUELA Maracaibo Because of its strategic location near the narrow entrance to Lake Maracaibo, the city of Maracaibo became one of the most important settlements in western Venezuela. Ships could navigate over its freshwaters inland, as far as 200 kilometers to the south almost to the Andes. Two elongated sandbars naturally protect the entrance to the Lake. During several months of the year, large swells and rough seas that make navigation into the narrow entrance a rather difficult task, characterize the approach on the outer northern side of both sandbars. San Carlos Island is located on the western side of the entrance, and Zapara Island, on the east.

Construction of a small fortress on the tip of San Carlos sand bar began around 1650 and endured continuous pirate attacks. Originally named "Defensa de Barra Grande", its objective was to protect the city of Maracaibo, its surroundings, and the entrance to Lake Maracaibo. The French pirate Juan Nau destroyed it in 1665. The Spanish military engineer, Francisco Ficardo was brought from Cartagena in 1679 to supervise the construction of a formal fortress on the same spot. It was completed in 1682 and named Castillo De San Carlos. Improvements and

Maracaibo +

Lake Maracaibo

The Andes

San Carlos +

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modifications continued from 1773 to 1784. A signaling tower for warning the fortress of approaching vessels was built on the east side of the entrance on Zapara Island. In 1823, during the Naval Battle of Lake Maracaibo, the fortress played a very important role in the defense of this region of Venezuela against the Spanish. The colonial defenders won the battle, thus consolidating Venezuela's political independence.

Between 1531 and 1660, several small Spanish merchant vessels were wrecked on the sandbars as they approached the entrance to Lake Maracaibo. In 1669, a well-documented naval battle took place between the fleet of the Spanish Admiral Alonso de Espinosa and Henry Morgan's pirates. The fleet was anchored in the calm waters in front of San Carlos Fortress when Morgan attacked. He was able to sink two large 26-gun frigates, the Magdalena and the San Luis and to capture a third vessel. The Magdalena is reported to have been carrying swords, silver and 40,000 pieces of eight. Henry Morgan was able to salvage a part of this treasure. By now, after some 330 years, the wrecks and the treasure are buried beneath an estimated 5 to 10 foot thick layer of soft sandy sediments in the shallow waters (20 feet) just south of the San Carlos and Zapara sandbars. Heavy traffic of oil tankers and merchant shipping is a daily occurrence through the modern man-made channel that runs close to the battle site. For this reason the location cannot be considered the easiest one for an archaeological project. However, results of a magnetometer survey, and thin steel bar spot penetrations, could help predict its feasibility. If the sediment cover is not to thick, its softness might permit excavation with airlifts. Throughout colonial times and to the present, high swells and rough seas on the outer side of the Zapara sandbar continue to play havoc with ships approaching the entrance to Lake Maracaibo. Several ships are reported to have been lost on the sandbar: in 1791 the Spanish ship San Francisco de Paula in 1822, two English ships, the Mary and the Robert, and in 1988 a tugboat that had recently

San Carlos Fortress A view of Zapara Island on the eastern side of the entrance to Lake Maracaibo

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arrived from New Orleans. After it rolled over and sank, I personally witnessed the rapidity with which the sand swallowed up the tugboat as the waves pounded over it. In a matter of a few months it disappeared altogether.

Adicora on Paraguana Peninsula It is no secret that many of the residents and fishermen in the coastal village of Adicora possess a large variety of nautical artifacts taken from a Spanish wreck that rests in the quiet, shallow waters of Adicora bay. These include swords, lanterns, cups, plates, bronze pieces, cannon balls, and many other interesting objects. No one has studied these artifacts in order to date them. In 1972, when I was working along the Falcon coast from Tucacas to Paraguaná Peninsula, I was able to spend a few days in Adicora. Some of the villagers showed me their collections inherited from their grandfathers and great grandfathers. After learning from an old fisherman the approximate location of the wreck, I obtained permission from the National Guard to dive on the site, and bought my scuba gear with me a few weeks later.

The day I chose for the inspection of the site, the water was extremely clear and only 10 to 15 feet deep. Therefore, I was able to snorkel out to the location with the tanks on my back. After swimming around for about twenty minutes I spotted a rubble heap on the seafloor and dove down to get a closer look. What I had found was a collection of rocks of varying lithologies and sizes that had served as ballast for a colonial sailing ship. I surveyed the area around the rocks but did not find anything else. Apparently, a few feet of sand have buried whatever remains of this wreck. Robert Marx, in his book "Shipwrecks in the Americas"

Cabo San Roman

Adicora

Aves De Sotavento

Cabo Codera

Los Roques

Tucacas La Guaira

Isla De Aves

Aguide Shoals +

Cabo San Roman To

Cabo Codera

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mentions that an unidentified caravel carrying the Count De Nieva, the new viceroy of Peru, and other important persons, were lost on the Peninsula of Paraguana in 1561. Perhaps the wreck in Adicora bay is that ship. After all, records of wrecks along this stretch of coast have not been found. A detailed study of the artifacts in the village, and a simple airlift project around the ballast in the bay, should shed some more light regarding the origin of the Adicora shipwreck. La Vela de Coro The coastal village of La Vela is located five kilometers from the town of Coro, the provincial capital of the State of Falcon. Although not a particularly well-protected port, it has always served as Coro's only outlet to the sea. Two ships are documented as having been wrecked here. The first in 1622, an unidentified Spanish frigate carrying 30,000 pesos worth of tobacco, and the second in 1808 was the H.M.S. Volador, a 16 gun English warship captained by Francis Dickens. Since La Vela de Coro is a very shallow port with a sandy sea floor, and practically devoid of coral reefs, these ships probably ran aground on one of the many submerged sandbanks that characterize this coastal area. Aguide Shoals The remote fishing village of Aguide, on top of the cliffs of Punta Aguide on the Falcon coast, is situated 120 kilometers to the east of La Vela de Coro, and 80 kilometers northwest of the tourist town of Tucacas. Looking seaward directly to the north from the coastal cliffs, one can see in the distance, white raging waters as the waves rise and break on top of some shoals. The local fishermen have named this place "El Hervidero" or the boiling pot. Strong easterly winds blowing constantly during most of the year are responsible for the high waves and strong currents on the shoals. Because it was a favorite fishing ground for the local fishermen for many years, they had become aware of the existence of some kind of colonial wreck. Their nets would get stuck on pointed objects they knew was not coral, and on several occasions cannon balls were brought to the surface.

Fishing boats near the town of Aguide

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Mike Osborn, who has been the most renowned professional diver in Venezuela for the past thirty years, and I have been fortunate enough to reach the shoals on two occasions and find the evidence of a wreck. Mike has made at least twelve attempts to find the wreck and I have made four. After several wasted trips we realized that only during a few days in November was the water clear and calm with the currents subdued enough to allow us to dive on the wreck. The shoals measure approximately one kilometer in length, 300 meters in width, and situated in 5 to 10 meters of water. Located on the western end of the shoals, evidence of the wreck includes some 20 cannons over 10 feet in length, associated cannon balls, two large anchors, nails encrusted in coral and corroded pewter plates with drawings of the French flor de lille. The entire length of the shoals has not been explored, therefore, we do not know whether or not there is only one wreck. Again this site has not been studied, nor has it been documented in the literature. Is it possible that the ship or ships on these shoals belong to the French fleet that was lost on Islas de Aves de Sotavento in 1678? Perhaps, unlike the other ships, they missed those islands, and a few days later struck the Aguide shoals.

Chelonia mydas

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5. SHIPWRECKS ON VENEZUELA'S ISLANDS Isla de Aves (Bird Island) After a lengthy geopolitical arbitration between Venezuela and Holland, Spain voted in favor of giving Isla de Aves to Venezuela in 1865. This minute piece of real estate is isolated in the Caribbean, 200 kilometers west of Dominica and 540 kilometers north of Venezuela. Its main importance is that it is a frequent breeding ground for the large green turtle (Chelonia mydas) and for the thousands of marine birds of different species (Anous stolidus, Larus atricilla, Fregata magnificens). Another interesting aspect of this island is its small size and shape that changes from time to time. The currents, strong wave action, tides and occasional hurricanes are responsible for the routine modification of the island's surface.

Ballast From Shipwreck Granite = I Brick = L Slate = p

Aves Island 15º 42’ N Latitude 63º 38’ W Longitude

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In April 1973 I participated in a scientific expedition to Isla De Aves as a marine geologist aboard the Venezuelan naval ship H-01. The objectives of the trip were: 1) to study and tag the green turtles, 2) to carryout a bathymetric survey around the island, 3) to study the sediments, beach rock and corals in the shallow waters, and 4) to precisely position the island using the technique of stellar observations during several nights. We did not have a Global Positioning System (GPS) in those days. At this time, the island was approximately 580 meters long, 30 to 100 meters wide, and 3 meters high. It had the shape of a curved bone with the narrowest part of the island roughly in the center and broader in the southern and northern sectors. Of interest during this expedition was the finding of a large number of igneous and metamorphic rocks on the island. Theses included granite blocks, slates and even red bricks. It did not take long to realize that the rocks where not originally from this location which is a coral key consisting of 100% calcareous coralline sediments. After a few days of diving among the corals on the eastern windward side of the island, I found one large cannon, 10 to 12 feet in length, a metal box one cubic meter in size, and a large anchor. Located in only 10 feet of water, these artifacts were thickly encrusted with coral growth, and the strong breakers only allowed us to swim in the area of the wreck for short periods of time.

Because of its remote location, its height of only 3 meters above the surface, and very small size, this coral key is not visible until you are practically on top of it. Therefore, Aves Island has been, and still is a navigational hazard. Three important shipwrecks were reported to have occurred here. The first in 1689 was the small Spanish merchant vessel, the Santa Ana Maria that was sailing from Spain to Mexico. Its cargo was general merchandise, and mercury that was used

Isla De Aves

SHIPWRECK Cannon Anchor Metal box

◄

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at the time for extracting gold. The second wreck in 1705 was a 24 gun English merchantman carrying iron bars and barrels of nails. After two weeks, a French ship rescued the survivors and recovered most of the cargo. The last recorded wreck occurred in 1774. This was the American slave ship Rising Sun under Captain Allanson that was carrying a cargo of slaves from Africa to America. Las Aves Archipelago (Sotavento) The Las Aves Archipelago consists of two atoll shaped sets of coralgal keys, 15 nautical miles (28 Km) apart, and 86.5 nautical miles (160 Km) north of Venezuela's Central Coastal Mountain Range. Of particular interest to this narrative on shipwrecks is the more westerly set of keys, Las Aves de Sotavento, whose coordinates are 12°north latitude and 67° 40~west longitude. Collectively, the islands and associated reefs measure 9 kilometers north to south, and consist of a half moon shaped outer barrier reef, approximately 14.5 kilometers in length. The average elevation of the keys above sea level is 3 meters.

In April 1678, a French fleet of eighteen warships and several privateers set sail from Santo Domingo on the island of Hispanola. Their mission under the leadership of Count D'Estre was to attack Curaçao and capture it from the Dutch, and then to attack the Spanish colonies on the mainland of South America. The ships were carrying an army of approximately 6000 men. The plan was to sail between Los Roques and the Aves Archipelago. However, during the night of May 3, 1678, unable to see the low-lying islands and because of the imprecise navigational aids of the time, the fleet sailed onto the outer barrier reefs of the archipelago. Almost all the warships, some 1200 men, and 250 brass and over 300 iron cannons were lost. The French and the Dutch later salvaged most of the

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cannons. If it had not been for this disastrous act of nature, the dreams of the French and the English of capturing the Spanish and Dutch colonies might have been accomplished. To this day, we do not know for sure the value of the artifacts and treasures lost by this large fleet. A large-scale archaeological project and several years of work would be required to perform the necessary mapping, photography, and artifact extraction at Las Aves de Sotavento. Other ships are also reported to have been lost in the inner quiet waters of the keys behind the barrier reef. One of these may have been the Spanish schooner of war San Carlos sailing from Puerto Rico to Caracas and captained by Juan Castaneda in1803. The other quite probably was the Spanish merchantman Mariposa sailing toward Spain in 1819. The crews of both wrecks and some cannons were saved, but a wealth of artifacts can still be found in the quiet waters of the lagoon. Based on preliminary on-site observations and information obtained from French archives regarding the lost fleet of D'Estre, I prepared a project proposal in 1988 for working on the Las Aves wrecks. Archaeological considerations indicated that large quantities of materials other than cannons exist in the shallow waters (2-5 meters), and that their study would provide invaluable historical information. The project included doing the necessary historical research in French and English archives. The wrecks are spread over a large stretch of the outer barrier reef, as well as the existence of wrecks in the quiet waters of the back reef lagoon. Therefore, surface reconnaissance must first be performed to determine the precise location of the more interesting sites. Afterward, an initial phase of detailed mapping and photography would be required, followed by archaeological investigations. Critical to the success of this project is choosing the appropriate months of the year when the winds and waters are calm. During most of the year, the breakers are very strong on the windward outer barrier reef where the wrecks are located, and work would be extremely difficult. The back reef lagoon sites can be worked on all year round. As part of the initial phase of the project, I suggested the construction of an archaeological laboratory at the Naval Academy in Mamo on the coast. This would include fresh water tanks for the preservation of the artifacts (metals, wood, china, and other organic materials). The second phase would involve photography, and the careful extraction of materials from the more accessible sites for immediate preservation using standard techniques. Because of weather constraints, the large distance from the mainland, and the magnitude of the project, it is estimated that a minimum of four years would be required. The experience gathered on this project would be invaluable for future similar projects at alternative sites along the Venezuelan coast. Los Roques Archipelago Consisting almost in its entirety of coralgal keys of varying shapes and sizes, this atoll shaped group of islands of immense natural beauty was declared a national park by Venezuela in August 1972. Of the more than thirty large keys, only the main island of Gran Roque consists of igneous and metamorphic rocks. It is inhabited mostly by local fishermen, has a few small tourist hotels and has an

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airstrip for small planes. Located 90 nautical miles almost directly north of the coastal city of La Guaira, a fast boat can reach it in six hours or by plane in 40 minutes. From east to west the entire archipelago measures approximately 47 kilometers, and some 30 kilometers from north to south. Its small keys and larger islands are protected from the strong northeast trade winds by a semicircular barrier reef stretching for 24 kilometers along the northeast and east sides of the archipelago. Its economic importance includes abundant fish, lobsters and conch shells that are consumed in restaurants and homes in Caracas. Tourism, boating and sailing have become more popular in the past fifteen years.

During a three-month geological survey of Los Roques Archipelago in 1974, I noticed a small cannon in the yard of a local fisherman on Cayo Frances. I asked him where he had found it and he told me that he dredged it up in his net on Cayo Norte, the outer barrier reef located to the northeast. This cannon probably belongs to the Caledonia a ship of unknown registry that was sailing from Philadelphia to Caracas with a cargo of soap and flour when it struck the outer barrier reef in 1824. La Orchila Located approximately 30 nautical miles directly to the east of Los Roques is the single large island of La Orchila. It serves as a small base for the Venezuelan Navy and is off limits to unauthorized persons. I have been to the island on several occasions on geological expeditions. This island is responsible for the

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wreck of the Scottish merchantman Jason in 1809. Under Captain Stewart, it was sailing to Curacao from Europe when it struck the northeast point of the island. The crew and a small part of the cargo were saved. Although the wreck was documented, it has not been found. If permission can be obtained from the Venezuelan Navy for a magnetometer survey on the island's east and northeast coast, positive results would justify archaeological projects with the Navy. Isla Tortuga Located approximately 60 nautical miles northeast of the port city of Puerto La Cruz, and on the north edge of the Cariaco Trench, the waters around Tortuga Island are important for both commercial and sport fishing. Large sailfish can be caught almost all year round. Apart from a few temporary small fishing shacks on its northern coast, the island is barren except for cactus and xerophytic vegetation typical of arid climates. In spite of its large size (30 km x 15 km), the lack of water or shady vegetation renders it uninhabitable. Because of its strategic location north of the Ensenada de Barcelona, the island is probably responsible for several wrecks. However, only one is recorded in the literature. This was the small Spanish merchantman Nuestra Senora De Lantigua, captained by Benito Sanchez that sank on June 1, 1630 on the northern coast of the island. Soon afterward, the Dutch salvaged most of the cargo. Nevertheless, it is possible that a magnetometer survey along Isla Tortuga's northern shallow waters could reveal important historical treasures still remaining to be found.

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6. SHIPWRECKS ON THE CENTRAL COAST Venezuela's central coastal region stretches from Puerto Cabello on the west to Cabo Codera on the east. It is characterized by a straight, steeply inclined mountain range that drops directly into deep waters with a very narrow shelf. Numerous small bays with sandy beaches and shallow reefs are found along the entire length of coastline. During early colonial times, Caraballeda was the first port to be founded in 1560, and with Puerto Cabello became the doors to the interior plains located on the south side of the mountains. La Guaira, located near Caraballeda soon took over as the important seaport in 1568.

Because of the strategically situated ports of Puerto Cabello and La Guaira, the cities of Valencia and Caracas became centers of cultural and political colonial development. The region was also blessed with abundant mountain streams, lush vegetation, fertile valleys behind the mountains, and rich fishing grounds near the coast. Soon wheat, cotton and sugar cane were introduced, and by 1606 tobacco became an important export crop. Agricultural products from the Venezuelan colonies were delivered to markets in Puerto Rico, Santo Domingo, Cartagena and the West Indies aboard countless merchant vessels of all sizes that sailed to and from its two main seaports. Puerto Cabello Located on the western end of the Central Coastal Range Puerto Cabello, with its marvelous Spanish colonial architecture and natural harbor, has been one of Venezuela's important ports since colonial time. It is protected from the open sea by several small coral islands.

CENTRAL COASTAL REGION

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Unfortunately, those not familiar with the navigational hazards posed by these islands would run aground. One such vessel was the Spanish brigantine-of-war Manuel captained by Martin Maria Espinosa. On April 27, 1813 it hit a shallow reef and sank in Puerto Cabello harbor. The entire crew and some equipment were saved. However, if the exact location of the wreck can be found today, a wealth of historical treasure still exists in the port's quiet, shallow waters. Given Venezuela's naval presence in the area, this is one more interesting archaeological project that can be undertaken with their support. During World War II, the Venezuelan Navy captured an Italian cargo vessel near Puerto Cabello. In order to put it out of service, it was dynamited and beached on the leeward side of the nearby Isla Larga. Today, the bow sticks out on the beach, but the remaining steel hulk is submerged to a depth of 50 feet. Because of extremely clear water, and strikingly red coral growth inside the ship, it has become a favorite spot for scuba diving and underwater photography. Divers enjoy lying in the large white bathtub located in the ship's bathroom at a depth of 20 feet, and having their photographs taken. La Guaira During the year 1822, a series of unrelated shipwrecks occurred on the Venezuelan coast and on the Dutch islands to the north. The most important of these wrecks involved over 20 ships of different nationalities. They were anchored off the coast in front of La Guaira on December 22, when a gale struck the port and sank all of them. Although this harbor was one of the most important to Venezuela's development, it was totally unprotected from open seas until the

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late 1800's. Soon afterward, construction of along, curved boulder jetty began. The coastal conditions required ongoing construction and dredging activity for the next 70 years as La Guaira's maritime traffic grew. Prior to this, the persistent rough seas and high swells that characterize this coast were probably responsible for several colonial wrecks that were never documented.

On December 21, 1868 the steamship Estrella sank with its cargo of specie in rough seas, 26 kilometers from La Guaira en route from St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands. The wreck's coordinates (10.37 N, 66.56 W) given by Pickford (1994), places it in a water depth of approximately 100 meters (300 feet). This is too deep for a conventional archaeological project with scuba equipment. A photographic search with an ROV although worthwhile, would be costly.

La Guaira (circa 1800)

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7. SHIPWRECKS IN EASTERN VENEZUELA Some of the most beautiful stretch of coastline and islands in Venezuela are situated between Puerto La Cruz and Cumaná, including the islands of Margarita, Coche and Cubagua. The local tourist board considers this region to be "the best kept secret in the Caribbean" because of its shady, palm tree covered sandy beaches, and clear blue-green waters. Colonial aspects of the region are still present in the architecture of the old buildings of many towns. The numerous fortresses such as those in Cumaná, Punta Araya, and Margarita still maintain their original construction. The Spanish built them for protection against pirate attacks on the salt flats, and pearl fishing grounds in the area. Soon, a busy shipping lane developed along the Araya coast between Cumaná and Margarita.

Tortuga

Isla De Margarita

Barcelona Puerto La Cruz

Cumana

Coche Cubagua

Araya

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Barcelona/Puerto La Cruz No written records of colonial shipwrecks exist for the Bahia de Pozuelos. The only known evidence has been found by the local fishermen in the shallow waters on the western side of El Morro de Lecherías. Less than 100 meters from the shore small, old style anchors, cannon balls, and numerous metal objects have been dredged up in the fishing nets. The Castillo del Morro, a small fortress on top of the island, overlooks the site and the shallow embayment at the mouth of the Neveri River. In colonial time, it served as the principal protection to Barcelona's main outlet to the sea, and is probably responsible for sinking a few ships. A nautical archaeological project in these waters would be very interesting from a historical point of view. They are calm and well protected during most of the year, and depths average ten feet. A magnetometer survey would be needed to precisely locate metal objects of interest. Airlifts could be used for removing the soft sediments, and for extracting small objects that have been buried. Because of its accessibility and shallow condition, it is an ideal location.

Caracas Shoals The Caracas shoals and islands are located approximately 35 kilometers northeast of Puerto la Cruz and half way to Cumaná. They can be reached quickly by small boat and offer the most spectacular fishing and diving pleasures along the Venezuelan coast. The wreck of a contemporary cargo vessel (1940's) can be

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found two kilometers south of the shoals in a small bay, on the westernmost of the two islands. Approximately 30 meters in length, its stern lies 15 to 20 meters (45-60 feet) below the surface. Visible in the crystal clear waters is its huge bronze propeller. This wreck is of interest for underwater photography because of the rich variety of fish that live in and around its metal hulk. Cumana/Punta Araya During the 16th century, Cumaná became an important center of colonial expansion because of its source of fresh water provided by the Manzanare River. Today it is the principal port for Eastern Venezuela's large fleet of fishing boats. In spite of its prominence in colonial history, only one shipwreck has been documented. It involved the small Spanish vessel San Diego that went down near the port of Cumaná in 1733. The English salvaged it shortly thereafter, and today the exact location of the wreck is still speculative. From the earliest colonial time until today, the Araya peninsula is renowned for the extraction of salt from the immense natural salt flats found there. The Dutch established the first thriving salt industry in the late 1500's. In his book "Shipwrecks in the Americas", Robert Marx reports that Spain sent an armada of large warships to the Araya peninsula in 1605 in order to defeat the Dutch. In the battle that ensued, twenty-two Dutch ships were surprised, burned and sank in the shallow waters just offshore. All the Dutchmen were massacred and the Spanish took over the running of the salt mines. As a consequence of this and to avoid future attacks like the one perpetrated, they began the construction of the Araya fortress. A town developed in the vicinity of the fortress with an important port for the exportation of the salt. It is considered that the shallow waters (<10 meters) along the 20-kilometer length of coast of the Araya peninsula where the Dutch ships sank, offer considerable potential for performing nautical archaeological studies.

Ruins of the Araya Fortress

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MargaritalCochelCubagua Situated only 38 kilometers north of the Araya Península mainland, Margarita and the islands of Coche and Cubagua constitute the Venezuelan State of Nueva Esparta. Known today for its tourism and fishing industries, the area is considered the cradle of Spanish colonial civilization in South America. Collectively, the three islands cover an area of approximately 950 square kilometers, and have a population of some 350,000 inhabitants. The development of this region in colonial time can be attributed not only to its strategic location, but also to the abundance of pearls found in its shallow waters and to the salt that formed in the salt flats on Coche and Cubagua. In no time, the center of Spanish colonial power was centered in Nueva Cádiz on Cubagua. Margarita's colonial history and culture is in evidence in the folklore of the local fishermen, and in numerous fortresses found throughout the island. Of archaeological interest are the ruins of the settlement of Nueva Cádiz on the eastern tip of Cubagua, and the many Spanish shipwrecks known to exist in the area.

In the 16th century, French pirates were active in their attacks on the Spanish colonies along this coastal region. The Spanish sent warships to the Americas in order to protect their interest. In 1586, two Spanish galleys pursued and cornered a small French pirate ship in Puerto Santo bay on Margarita Island. In the onslaught that followed, the French ship's gunpowder caught fire and the ship exploded. Almost the entire crew of pirates was killed or drowned. Valuable artifacts and cannons are still believed to be located on the seafloor in the vicinity of this battle site. In his "Atlas of Shipwrecks and Treasure", Nigel Pickford mentions that in 1637 a Spanish ship was lost near a small island off the coast of Margarita. It was

1. French ship (1586) 2. Spanish ship

(1637)

3. San Pedro Alcantara (1815)

4. H.M.S. Pert

(1807

5. Chalmers (1808)

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carrying a cargo of pearls, gold and silver valued at 60,000 to 80,000 ducats. It was on its way from the colonies in South America to Spain. I assume that it stopped at the Nueva Cádiz settlement on Cubagua Island to pick up a cargo of pearls. This wreck has not been found, and is believed to be located in the vicinity of Cubagua. The value of its treasures justifies a well-organized search. Early in the 19th century, two English ships were lost near Margarita. The wrecks can be attributed either to bad weather and rough seas, or to poor navigation at night. The first to go down was the small English, 14-gun warship H.M.S. Pert captained by Donald Campbell. It wrecked on October 16, 1807 near the entrance to Porlamar, the principal town on Margarita. The second wreck occurred in 1808, and involved the English slave ship Chalmers. It was en route from West Africa to the Americas when it sank northeast of Margarita. Most of the crew and slaves survived. This incident is believed to be responsible, in part, for the rich culture and varying ethnicity that exists in the Margariteño population of today. Perhaps the most interesting of Venezuela's marine archaeological treasures is associated with the Spanish warship the San Pedro Alcántara. Because the events surrounding this wreck involved Venezuela's war of independence against Spain in the early 1800's, they were well-documented in historical records of both countries. By 1815, the revolution was beginning to weaken Spain's sovereignty over their colonies. They decided that it was time to take strong measures by sending their naval fleet and troops to different parts along Venezuela's coast. A large fleet of warships and troops was sent to the east as part of an expedition to quell the revolution. The fleet arrived in Margarita in April 1815, and anchored in protected waters five kilometers off the southwest tip of Coche Island. One of the largest warships in the fleet was the 64-gun San Pedro Alcántara, which was captained by Javier de Salazar. The events on the afternoon of April 24th leading up to the tragedy are fairly clear. What is known is that the ship caught fire, blew up and quickly sank where it was anchored. Scattered over a large area of the seafloor in less than 40 feet of water went 800,000 pesos in silver, tons of weapons, munitions and the ship's cannons. As many as fifty men lost their lives in the explosion and many others drowned. Although salvage operations began right away, small amounts of treasure continued to be found by the local fishermen during the remainder of the 19th century. However, the technologies of the time would not have permitted the recovery of more than a few artifacts. Resurgence in interest in the wreck began twenty years ago by sport divers. With little care, and no knowledge about nautical archaeological techniques, a few cannons and other artifacts have been located and removed from the site. In spite of these occasional finds, it is estimated that as much as 80% of the wreck of the San Pedro Alcántara still remains on the seafloor. It can be considered an excellent location for well-organized archaeological projects because of the shallow, calm and clear conditions that characterize the surrounding seas during most of the year. May 1999

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REFERENCES CITED Almeida, P., and D. Goddard, 1974, Biología y geología del fondo alrededor de la Isla De Aves hasta 10 metros de profundidad: Bol. Soc. Ven. Cien. Nat. no. 128, 129, p. 135-162. Brady, E. M., 1960, "Marine Salvage operations", Cornell Maritime press, Cambridge, Maryland, 237 pp. Goddard, D., and X. Picard, 1976, Geomorfología y sedimentación en la costa del Estado Falcón, Cabo San Román a Chichiviriche: Memoria, Bol. Geol. II Cong. Latin. Geol., Caracas, Publ. Esp. vol. II, p. 157-1179 Goddard, D., 1986, A Bibliographical List of the Geology of the Venezuelan Continental Shelf and Adjacent Caribbean Areas; Maraven Technical Report RS-254, 32 pp. Goddard, D., 1987, Preliminary Report on the Marine Geology of the Los Roques Archipelago; Maraven Technical Report RS-259, 36 pp. Kenny, J. E., 1973, "Business Of Diving", Gulf Publishing, Houston Texas, 302 pp. Marx, R. E., 1987, "Shipwrecks in the Americas", Dover Publications Inc., New York, 483 pp. Marx, R. and J. Marx, 1994, " New World Shipwrecks, (1492-1825)" Ram Publishing Co. Dallas, Texas, 434 pp. Picard, X., and D. Goddard, 1972, Sedimentación de carbonatos en las Islas Larga, Alcatraz y Santo Domingo, Puerto Cabello, Estado Carabobo: Bol. Inf. Asoc. Venez. Geol. Min. Pet., v.15 (4, 5, 6), p. 54-64. Picard, X., and D. Goddard, 1975, Geomorfología y sedimentación en la costa entre Cabo Codera y Puerto Cabello: Bol. Inf. Asoc. Venez. Geol. Min. Pet., v.18, no. 1, p. 39-106. Pickford, N., 1994, "The Atlas of Shipwrecks & Treasure", Dorling Kindersle, London, New York, Stuttgart, 200 pp. Unesco, 1972, "Underwater Archaeology, a Nascent Discipline", Unesco, Paris (Publisher), 306 pp. Weiss, M.P., D. Goddard and X. Picard, 1973, Reefs and associated deposits, Estado Falcon, Venezuela (abs): AAPG/SEPM Annual Meeting, v.1, p. 97-97. Weiss, M.P., and D. Goddard, 1977, Man's impact on coastal reefs, an example from Venezuela; Amer. Assoc. Pet. Geol., Studies in Geology, no. 4, p. 111-124. Weiss, M.P., D. Goddard, and X. Picard, 1978, Marine geology of reefs and inner shelf, Chichiriviche, Estado Falcon, Venezuela: Marine Geology, v. 28, p. 211-244. Wilkes, S. B., 1971, " Nautical Archaeology", David & Charles: Newton Abbot (Publisher), 294 pp.

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The author diving in Plymouth, England in 1976.