sgs dxlg protocols 2.19.14 - destination xl group dxlg... · 2018-09-05 · pg 20: appearance...

PROTOCOLS

Feb. 19, 2014

Feb. 19, 2014

Manual Revision Log Date By Revision 2/14/2011 Ellen Rose Initial Release 2/21/2011 Ellen Rose Pg. 72 – Added Special Claims Protocol – V2 6/1/11 Ellen Rose Pg. 18: Update garment sample requirements

Page 20: Update fabric package submission for darkest color Page 20: Update report distribution list Page 20: Billing – Add SGS to invoice CMRG for EU testing Page 24: Update Test Request Form for report distribution

6/7/2011 Ellen Rose Page 20: Update email subject line for report distribution 8/1/2011 Lijun

Ma/Sravanth Page 20: Fabric Package must be tested on one color Page 46: “Wrinkle Free Claim to Be Checked original state & after 5 washes” Page 71: “ Wrinkle Free Claim to Be Checked original state & after 5 Washes”

8/18/11 Ellen Rose Page 21: update billing information 12/7/11 Ellen Rose Page 18: add flammability to all fabric and additional colorway tests

Page 20: add agent to report distribution Page 24: add agent to test request form Page 27: add agent to test report format Page 28: update report format Page 78: update SGS lab list

12/21/11 Ellen Rose Page 20: CF to chlorine bleach and CF to non chlorine bleach- test without suppressor, update report distribution Page 21: update CMRG billing contact Page 22: include test request form with test report distribution Remove wrinkle free test from protocols 100G & F, 102 G & F, Add wrinkle free test to Special Claims protocol

1/3/12 Ellen Rose Page 47: correct unwashed requirement >8.0 oz/yd2: 500 Cycles Min

1/17/2012 Ellen Rose Page 4: update SGS Asia contact information Page 74: update soil release requirement

4/20/2012 Ellen Rose Page 20: update Casual Male report distribution chart

5/3/2012 Sravanth Pg 15: Updated Illinois Regulatory Information Pg 19: Updated Composite Requirement Pg 20: Appearance Evaluation must be performance for all Additional Colorways Pg. 24- update TRF with country destination and Agent contact information Pg 65: Added Socks & Hosiery Protocol Pg 79: Updated Lab List Protocols 1,2, 19& 20 were updated for Dry Cleaning testing.

7/27/2012 ERose Pg. 22: add conditional pass explanation to report summary Pg 22: Document report failures in red Pg. 20: update report distribution Pg. 24: update TRF report distribution Remove “professional” from dry clean standards except leathers/suedes Pg. 79: update SGS lab list

7/30/2012 ERose Pg. 20, 22: add information to upload reports to Data Manager 9/24/2012 ERose Pg 20: update Sandy Sherman’s email address 2/18/13 ERose Pg. 74: update zipper requirement

3/15/13 ERose Pg 20-21: update report distribution chart 4/16/2013 ERose Change company name to Destination XL Group, INC (DXLG) thru manual

Pg. 19: add direction for seam slippage test Pg. 43: Added new test-- CF to Crocking (AATCC 8/116) Pg. 65: Added Antifungal test for Socks(AATCC 30), qualitative only Pg. 74: Added Attachment Strength (ect.) for Shank Button Pg. 76:Added 20 Home Launderings for Antibacterial activity assessment of textile materials( AATCC 147) Pg. 76: Revised Wrinkle Free/Resistant/Easy Care( AATCC 143)

5/15/13 ERose Separate protocols to separate document 5/22/13 ERose Page 43-44: change Wrinkle Resistant requirements from 4.0 to 3.5 8/21/2013 Sravanth Elastic Protocols: Added requirements for Stretch & Recovery (Narrow Width)

Feb. 19, 2014

1/13/2014 ERose Pg: 46 Add direction to test all colors for anti microbial and wicking tests Pg: 18: update Loss of lint requirement, update attachment strength test method and requirement, add pocket strength attachment test method and requirement. Pg. 16: add requirement for appearance test for double face fleece Pg. 18: add pilling test and requirement update protocols 200 G/F, 200 F, 201G/F, Special claims, Appendix 2 as highlighted in yellow Pg. 46: update size sticker evaluation test method and requirements

2/19/2014 Erose Pg. 15 &16 Spec 200 F & G… Under general appearance added (Satisfactory for double face fleece) Pg. 18 & 20: added Terry Robe to specification titles Pg. 22, 27, 35:added pocket attachment strength

Pg. 46: Non-Iron claim added into wrinkle resistance / durable press properties

Feb. 19, 2014

Protocols Index

Page Standard 1: 100G: Woven Garment (Shirts & Pants) 5

Standard 2: 100F: Woven Fabric (Shirts & Pants) 6 Standard 3: 101G: Woven Denim Garment 8 Standard 4: 101F: Woven Denim Fabric 10

Standard 5: 102G: Woven Twill Garment 12 Standard 6: 102F: Woven Twill Fabric 13

Standard 7: 200G: Knit Garments 15 Standard 8: 200F: Knit Fabric 16 Standard 9: 201G: Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe 18 Standard 10: 201F: Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Fabric 20

Standard 11: 202G: Swimwear 22 Standard 12: 202F: Swimwear Fabric 23

Standard 13: 300: Sweaters 25 Standard 14: 400G: Leather & Suede Garments 27

Standard 15: 400F: Leather & Suede Hides 28 Standard 16: 500F: Lining Fabric (Applies for all textile items) 29

Standard 17: 600G: Textile Hats & Caps 31 Standard 18: 601G: Socks & Hosiery 33 Standard 19: 700G: Outerwear Garments (with or without lining) 35

Standard 20: 700F: Outerwear Fabric (shell & lining) 37 Standard 21: 701G: Sport Coats, Dress Jacket, Suits (with or without lining) 39

Standard 22: 701F: Sport Coats, Dress Jackets, Suits (shell & lining) 41 Standard 23: 800: Component Protocol 43

Standard 24: 801: Elastic Protocol 44 Special Claims Protocol Spec 802 45

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #1

Woven Garments Shirts & Pants Spec 100G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements

A-USA Market Labeling

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act

Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size

Fabric Construction

Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for dress pants

dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth

Seam Twist/Torque AATCC/ASTM TS-004 No More than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged

components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

Seam strength ASTM D1683 < 6.0 oz/yd2: 20lb Min

≥ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25lb Min

Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test

ASTM D1683 20 lb Min @ ¼”

Component attachment strength

Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800

Pocket attachment strength AATCC TS 010 15 lbs Min. Analytical

*Lead in surface coating (When request )

ASTM E 1613/1645 Shall not exceed 90 ppm (0.009% by weight)

Others

Component Not Tested At Fabric Stage

Follow fabric required test items to test

B-EU Market

Analytical

Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method

<30 mg/kg

Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request)

EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week

Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber included)

ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing

procedures Comply

Care Symbol/wording verification

Determined by general garment testing procedures

Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #2

Woven Fabric Shirts & Pants Spec 100F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/ Requirements

A-USA Market Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/ 20A 0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 100% Cotton: 4%

All other: 3% 1% growth

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for dress pants


Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No More than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning

General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0

Appearance After Dry Ironing

General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects

Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0; Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)

AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0

CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (with out suppressor)


CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 3.0

CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU

CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only

AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Perspiration: Activewear


*Phenolic Yellowing:Chambray, White, Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage

ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5

Performance Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength ASTM D5034 < 6.0 oz/yd2 : 30 lb Min.

≥ 6.0 oz/yd2 : 40 lb Min.

Tear strength ASTM D1424 < 6.0 oz/yd2 : 2.5 lb Min.

6.0- 7.9 oz/yd2 : 3.0 lb Min.

≥8.0 oz/yd2 : 4.0 lb Min

Stretch and recovery (Yarns ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min

Feb. 19, 2014

contain spandex ≥5% and in the direction of stretch only)

Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins):90% Min

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8

*Stain resistance (if claimed) AATCC 130 Mod. Class 4.0 after 1HL/ 5HL Analytical – Upon Request Only



Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #3

Woven Denim Garment Spec 101G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1) Textile Fiber Products

Identification Act

Care Labeling Rule Wool Products Labeling Act

Visual Assessment

Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.

Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Garment Wash- 2.5% Rigid: 4% 1% growth

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage No growth

Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components,

excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

Colorfastness Colorfastness to crocking AATCC 8/116 General:

Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 2.5 Dark Indigo/Black: Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 2.0

Performance

Seam strength ASTM D1683 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 35 lb Min

10.1-12.0 oz/yd2

: 40 lb Min ≧12.0 oz/yd

2: 50 lb Min.

Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test




Pocket attachment strength AATCC TS 010 20 lbs pH value AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical



Others Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage


B – EU Market Analytical


<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 ìg/cm2/week

Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon

ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Feb. 19, 2014

fiber included) Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment

testing procedures Comply



Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #4

Woven Denim Fabric Spec 101F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements


Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/ 20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight

Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As Claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Fabric Wash – 2.5 % Rigid – 4% 1% growth


Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning

General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0



Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0

3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Commercial Dry cleaning

Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5



CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach (without suppressor)

AATCC TS-001 Class 4.0 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0

CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for

Reference when fails at 20 AFU) CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only


CF to Ozone # AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 CF to Burnt Gas Fumes # AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 *Phenolic Yellowing # ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5 Performance

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1

Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 55x35 lb Min.

10.1-12.0 oz/yd2

65x 40 lb Min. > 12.0 oz/yd

2: 85x70 lb Min.

Tear strength ASTM D1424 (Warp x Weft) 8-10 oz/yd2: 4.0x3.0 lb Min.

10.1-12.0 oz/yd2

4.0x 3.5 lb Min. > 12.0 oz/yd

2: 6.5x4.0 lb Min.

Feb. 19, 2014

Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 (No hole) Stretch Denim: 100 cycles Min. Unwash: 500 cycles Min Washed: 200 cycles Min

Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)

ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min

Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): 90% Min

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only



# For indigo Dye, White Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #5 Woven Twill Garment Spec 102G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements

A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1) Textile Fiber Products Identification Act



Fabric Construction Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% / 1% growth


Seam Twist/Torque AATCC/ASTM TS-004 No more than 5% or ½”

Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning

General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

Performance

Seam strength ASTM D1683 < 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 35 lb Min.

Seam slippage - see pg. 19 for seams to test


Component attachment strength Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 modified 15 lb min Analytical



Others

Component Not Tested AT Fabric Stage



Azocolourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method

<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment


Care Symbol/wording verification Determined by general garment Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #6 Woven Twill Fabric Spec 102F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20A/ ASTM D629

0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight

Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 100% Cotton: 4%

All other: 3% 1% growth



General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0


General Appearance

Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0 No distortion defects

Colorfastness


CF to Commercial Dry cleaning Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle

Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5





CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0 CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 10AFU for

reference when fails at 20AFU) CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only




*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage- see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

6.0- 7.9oz/yd2

40 x 30 lb Min.

testing procedures

Feb. 19, 2014

≧ 8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.

Tear strength ASTM D1424 (Warp x Weft) <6.0 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2

3.0 lb Min. ≧8.0 oz/yd

2: 4.0 lb Min.

Abrasion Resistance ASTM D3886 (No hole) Stretch Twill: 100 Cycles Min. Unwash: ≤ 8.0 oz/yd

2: 300 Cycles Min

>8.0 oz/yd2: 500 Cycles Min

Washed: ≤ 8.0 oz/yd

2: 100 Cycles Min

> 8.0 oz/yd2: 200 Cycles Min


ASTM D3107 Stretch: 15% Min

Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): 90% Min

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8

*Stain resistance (If claimed) AATCC 130 Mod. Class4.0after1/5HL

Analytical – Upon Request Only



Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #7 Knit Garment Spec 200G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling


Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.

Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 5% x 5% 1% growth


Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning

General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, Satisfactory for Double Face Fleece Pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5 (satisfactory for double face fleece)

Performance Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m

2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb

Component attachment strength Refer to Spec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )


Others




Azocolourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234, In House Method

<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 ìg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg





Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #8 Knit Fabric Spec 200F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed

Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 5% x 5%

1% growth Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage

No growth Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option

1 No more than 5% or ½”


General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 (satisfactory for double face fleece)



Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering

AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle

Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5





CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 DryClass4.0/WetClass3.0

CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU)





*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Bursting strength ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m

2: 40 psi

Feb. 19, 2014

≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 psi

Pilling: double face fleece with anti- pilled treatment claim

ASTM D3512 Satisfactory @30min. The rating of test specimen after test, please refer to Appendix 2, pg.


ASTM D2594 Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max




Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #9 Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Spec 201G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling


Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size.

Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% Knit: 5% x 5% All: 1% growth

Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects,

damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

Loss of Lint Visual Assessment No Noticeable (For Terry Robe) Performance

Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 <6.0 oz/yd2: 20 lb Min

≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb

Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test


Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb



Pocket attachment strength ASTM C1683Modified Woven 15lb min. Knit<120gm/m2: 35%or 6lb > 120 gm/m2: 50% and/ or 7lbs

Analytical



Others



B-EU Market

Analytical Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234,

In House Method <30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week

Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative (When Request Or Nylon fiber

ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Feb. 19, 2014

included) Sleepwear Flammability Nightwear (Safety) Regulations Comply Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment




Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #10 Loungewear/Underwear/Terry Robe Fabric Spec 201F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber ± 3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)

+5% from contracted weight

Fabric Count Woven – ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887


Special Fabric Type Visual check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth




General Appearance


Colorfastness






CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet Class 3.0

CF to Light @ 20 AFU (Silk – 10AFU)

AATCC 16, Option 3

Class 4.0 (provide 10 AFU for Reference when fails at 20 AFU)

CF to Water AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Perspiration:


*Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1

Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

Feb. 19, 2014

≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 40 lb Min.

Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <6.0 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2

3.0 lb Min. ≧8.0 oz/yd

2: 4.0 lb Min.

Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2: 40 lb psi

≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 lb psi


Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit

Stretch: 15% Min

Growth: 5% Max Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%

Knit: ASTM D2594

Absorbency ASTM 4772 Ultra-absorbency: 75% Min Two-sided terry: 65% Min One-sided terry: 35% Min

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 Analytical – Upon Request Only *Lead in surface coating (When request )


Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #11 Swimwear Spec 202G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling



Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% Knit: 5% x 5% Woven/Knit: 1% growth



Performance

Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 <6.0 oz/yd2: 20 lb Min

≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min

Seam stretchability (Knit) AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb



Component attachment strength Refer to Sec 800 Refer to Spec 800 Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 Modified Woven: 15 lb Min

Knit: < 120 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb

Analytical



Others



B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg

Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative Nickel Leaching (When Request) EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm

2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg



Care Symbol/wording verification Determined by general garment testing procedures

Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #12 Swimwear Fabric Spec 202F Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* AATCC 20A/ ASTM D629

0% Single Fiber +3% Blends

Fabric Weight Woven ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)


Fabric Count Woven – ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887


Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth



Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance


Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering/Hand Wash

AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Class 4.0


AATCC/ASTM TS-001 Class 4.0



CF to Water AATCC 107 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Perspiration


CF to Sea Water AATCC 106 Color Change: Class 4.0 Straining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5

CF to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Color Change: Class 4.0 *Phenolic Yellowing: Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Feb. 19, 2014

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 <6.0 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

≧ 6.0 oz/yd2: 40 lb Min.


6.0-7.9 oz/yd2

3.0 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.

Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2: 40 lb psi

≧ 120 gm/m2: 55 lb psi


Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/Knit: Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30Sec/30 mins): Min 90%

Knit: ASTM D2594




Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #13 Sweaters Spec 300G Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements A-USA Market Labeling

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act



Fabric Construction


Sweater weight per dozen ASTM D3887 Modified +5% from contracted weight Gauge ASTM D3887 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 5% x 5% (L X W) 1% growth



General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0

Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0

No distortion defects

Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering AATCC 143 1 Wash – Staining: Class 4.0 3 Washes – Color change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5





CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry: Class 4.0 Wet: Class 3.0

CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provided 10AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU



CF to Perspiration: Activewear AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory shades if > 50%


Feb. 19, 2014

coverage Performance

Flammability (if not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam stretchability AATCC TS -015 < 120 gm/m

2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb

Bursting Strength ASTM D3786 < 120 gm/m2: 40 psi

≧120 gm/m2: 5

psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >+5 and in the direction of stretch only)

Knit: ASTM D2594 Stretch: 15% Min Growth: 5% Max

*Pilling Resistance (For wool and wool blended sample )

ICI pilling box method Wood blends: class 3.5 @4 hours (14,400 revolutions) Cashmere/Luxury fibers: class 3.5 @ 2 hours (7200 revolutions)



Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )


B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg





Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #14 Leather and Suede Garments 400G

Test Property Test Method Test Principle/Requirements


Guide for Select Leather and Imitation Leather Products Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (If textile lining) Wool Products Labeling Act (If wool lining) Care Labeling Rule

Visual Assessment Leather Identification Fiber Content Label RN# or WPL # Country of Origin Care Label Size

Fabric Construction Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Professional Leather Clean Professional Leather Clean 2% shrinkage No growth Differential Shrinkage (Shell/Lining): 2%

Appearance After Cleaning


Performance



Seam Strength ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Pocket attachment strength ASTM D1683 modified 15 lb. min Seam slippage see pg. 19 in test manual for seams to test


Analytical



B-EU Market

Analytical Azo colourants EN 14362-1/-2; ISO/TS 17234,

In House Method <30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg





Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #15 Leather and Suede Hides 400F



Fiber Analysis* (Textile components/lining)

AATCC 20/20A Confirm

Leather thickness in millimeters ASTM D1813 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Professional Leather Clean Professional Leather Clean 2% shrinkage No growth

Appearance After Cleaning


Colorfastness

CF to Professionally Leather Clean

Leather Clean – 1 Cycle Color Straining: Class 4.0- Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5





*Phenolic Yellowing: White, Ivory if >50% coverage


Performance

Flammability – Fabric only if not exempt

CFR 1610 Class 1

Seam slippage see pg. 19 for seams to test


Tensile strength ASTM D5034 40 lb Min Tear strength ASTM D1424 <6.0 oz/yd

2: 2.5 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2

3.0 lb Min. 8.0 oz/yd

2: 4.0 lb Min.

Analytical



Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #16 Lining Fabrics (Applies for all Textile Items) 500F




Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven - ASTM D3776 (oz/Sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/Sq.m)


Fabric Count Woven - ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887


Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150/135 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other – 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell and lining): 2%



General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0



Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 143/135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0

3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5





CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / WetClass 3.0



CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0

Feb. 19, 2014

Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (Provide 10 AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU)

CF to Sea Water (Swimwear Only)


CF to Chlorinated Pool Water (Swimwear only)

AATCC 162 Color Change: Class 4.0

CF to Ozone (Indigo Dye & White)

AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5

CF to Burnt Gas Fumes (Indigo Dye & White)

AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5

*Phenolic Yellowing White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance Flammability CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam Strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 20 lb Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test


Seam Stretchability (Knit) AATCC TS-015 <120 gm/m2

35% and/or 6 lbs ≧12.0 gm/m

2: 50% and/or 7 lbs

Tensile strength (woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 20 lbs Min.

3.5-6.0 oz/yd2 :

30 lb Min. 6.0-7.9 oz/yd

2 40 x 30 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.

Tear strength (Woven) ASTM D1424 <3.5 oz/yd2: 1.5 lbs Min.

3.5-5.9 oz/yd2 :

2.5 lb Min. 6.0-7.9 oz/yd

2: 3.0 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.

Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2

40 psi ≧12.0 gm/m

2: 55

psi Component attachment strength


*Water Repellency (If claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed 80 Min: after 3 washes

*Water Resistant/Rain Test (If claimed)

AATCC 35 No more than 1 gram leakage

B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg





Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #17 Textiles Hats and Caps 600G



Labeling Wool Product Labeling Act

Visual assessment Fiber Content Label (If wool) RN# or WPL # County of Origin Size

Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* (If requested/claimed)

AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends

Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) ASTM D3776 +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count ASTM D3775 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven: 100% Cotton: 4% All other – 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell and lining): 2%


General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, Damaged components excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0

Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering

AATCC 143 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5




CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


*Phenolic Yellowing: Denim, Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Seam Strength ASTM D1683 10 lbs Min Seam Stretchability AATCC TS-015 <120 gm/m

2 35% and/or 6 lbs

Feb. 19, 2014

≧12.0 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lbs

Bursting strength (Knit ASTM D3786 <120 gm/m2

40 psi ≧12.0 gm/m

2: 55

psi



Analytical *Lead in surface coatings (When request)


B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment testing procedures

Comply



Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #18 Socks & Hosiery – 601 G




Visual Assessment Fiber Content Label Care Label Country of Origin RN # or WPL # Size

Fabric Construction

Fiber Analysis* (If requested/claimed)

AATCC 20/20A 0% Single Fiber +3% Blends

Weight per dozen Standard Measure +5% from contracted weight Fabric Count – Knit ASTM D3887 +5% from contracted weight Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight

Yarn Construction ASTM D 1244 As Claimed Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Shrinkage AATCC 150 Subjective evaluation on all sizes after wash. No more than 7% x 7% shrinkage and the ability to fit NAHM Form


General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects, damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0

Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering

AATCC 143 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

CF to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS 001 Class 4.0

CF to Non-Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS 001 Class 4.0 CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 / Wet

Class 3.0 CF to Water: Color block/ Contrast trims only


CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


*Phenolic Yellowing: Denim, Chambray, White, Ivory if > 50% coverage


Performance

Abrasion Resistance of Socks (Heel Area)

ASTM D4966 (Mod.) Athletic: 400 cycles minimum Casual/ Dress: 200 cycles minimum

Fit properties – After Laundering

SGS In-house Method Sock Strechability – Biaxial stretch: 0.5 lb min – 9lb

Feb. 19, 2014

max Sock Strechability – Cuff Support: 0.25 lb/in min. – 4.25 lb/in max Sock Strechability – Cuff Correspond to maximum heel girth (inches)

Flammability (If not exempt) CFR 1610 Class 1 *Antifungal (If claimed) AATCC 30 (Test III) Qualitative Only

Analytical



B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg

Nickel Qualitative Per EN12471 Negative

Nickel Leaching (When Request)

EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg


Comply



Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #19 Outerwear Garments (With or Without Lining) 700G


A-USA Market Labeling (Note 1)



Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between shell & lining): 2%

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for outerwear




Performance

Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Min Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test


Seam Stretchability AATCC/ASTM TS-015 <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb



Pocket attachment strength ASTM D 1683 modified <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb

Other *Feather/Down Content (If applicable)

IDFL Report Actual

*Penetration resistance of filling material (If req.)

FTMS 191 Method 5530 Report Actual

*Fill power (If requested) IDFL Report Actual *Oxygen number (If requested)

IDFL Report Actual

*Turbidity cleanliness (If requested

IDFL Report Actual

*Species ID (If requested) IDFL Report Actual Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )


Feb. 19, 2014

B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week


ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg


Comply



Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #20 Outerwear Fabric (Shell and Lining) 700F




Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven -ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/sq.m)


Fabric Count Woven- ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887


Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth Knit: 5% x 5% 1% growth Differential shrinkage (between) Shell % lining): 2%

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for outerwear


Skew/Torque AATCC 179 method 1, Option 1 No more than 5% or ½”



Appearance After Dry Ironing General Appearance Hand iron Color Change: Class 4.0

No distortion defects

Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0 3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0” Self-staining: Class 4.5








Shell: CF to Light @ 40 AFU Lining: CF to Light @ 20 AFU

AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide 20 AFU for reference when fails at 40 AFU; 10 AFU when fails at 20 AFU)

Feb. 19, 2014



Performance

Flammability CFR 1610 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test

ASTM D434 20 lb Min

Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.

3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 40 x 30 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.


3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 3.0 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.

Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2: 40 psi

≧120 gm/m2: 55

psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)

Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit:

Stretch: 15% Min

Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 *Water Repellency (if claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed

80 Min: after 3 washes *Water Resistance/Rain Test (If claimed)


Other

*Feather/Down Content (If requested)

IDFL Report Actual

*Penetration resistance of filling material (If req.)

FTMS 191 Method 5530 Report Actual

*Fill power (If requested) IDFL Report Actual *Oxygen number (If requested)

IDFL Report Actual

*Turbidity cleanliness (If requested)

IDFL Report Actual

*Species ID (If requested) IDFL Report Actual Analytical



Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #21 Sports Coats, Dress jacket, Suits (With or Without Lining) 701G





Fabric Construction


Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 150 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth 2. Knit: Suede Fleece/Thermal 5% x 8% (L x W) Others: 5% 1% growth 3. Differential shrinkage (between shell & lining): 2%

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for this protocol


Seam Twist/Torque AATCC TS-004 No more than 5% or ½” Appearance after Laundering/Dry Cleaning General Appearance Visual Assessment No distortion, defects,

damaged components, excessive puckering, pill – Class 4.0 Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5

Performance

Seam strength (Woven) ASTM D1683 25 lb Min Min



Seam Stretchability AATCC TS-015 <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb



Pocket attachment strength ASTM D 1683 modified <12.0 gm/m2: 35% and/or 6 lb

≧120 gm/m2: 50% and/or 7 lb

Analytical



B-EU Market

Analytical


<30 mg/kg


EN 12474/EN 1811 <0.2 µg/cm2/week

Formaldehyde Qualitative AATCC 94 Negative Formaldehyde Quantitative ISO 14184-1 <75 mg/kg

Feb. 19, 2014

(When Request Or Nylon fiber included) Fiber Label Verification Determined by general garment




Comply

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #22 Sports Coats, Dress Jacket, Suits (Shell and Lining) 701F




Fabric Weight (oz/sq yd) Woven -ASTM D3776 (oz/sq yd) Knit: ASTM D3887 (gm/sq.m)


Fabric Count Woven- ASTM D3775 Knit: ASTM D3887


Special Fabric Type Visual Check As claimed Yarn Size* (if requested) ASTM D1059 +5% from contracted weight Defects Visual Assessment Report all defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 Woven 100% Cotton: 4% All other: 3% 1% growth 2. Knit: Suede Fleece/Thermal 5% x 8% (L X W) Others: 5% 1% growth 3. Differential shrinkage (between) Shell % lining): 2%

Dry cleaning – 1 cycle Note: Mandatory test for this protocol






Colorfastness CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Straining: Class 4.0

3 Washes - Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle

Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0; Self-staining: Class 4.5





CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry Class 4.0 Wet Class 3.0



CF to Light @ 20 AFU AATCC 16, Option 3 Class 4.0 (provide

Feb. 19, 2014

10 AFU for reference when fails at 20 AFU)



Performance

Flammability CFR 1610 Class 1 Seam slippage (Woven) see pg. 19 for seams to test

ASTM D434 20 lb Min

Tensile strength (Woven) ASTM D5034 (Warp x Weft) <3.5 oz/yd2: 25 lb Min.

3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 30 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 40 x 30 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 60 x 50 lb Min.


3.5-5-9 oz/yd2: 2.5 lb Min.

6.0-7.9 oz/yd2: 3.0 lb Min.

≧8.0 oz/yd2: 4.0 lb Min.

Bursting strength (Knit) ASTM D3876 <120 gm/m2: 40 psi

≧120 gm/m2: 55

psi Stretch and recovery (Yarns contain spandex >=5% and in the direction of stretch only)

Woven: ASTM D3107 Woven/knit:

Stretch: 15% Min

Growth: 5% Max Woven: Recovery (30 sec/30 mins): Min 90%

*pH value (if claimed) AATCC 81 6 – 8 *Water Repellency (if claimed) AATCC 22 90 Min: unwashed

80 Min: after 3 washes

*Water Resistance/Rain Test (If claimed)


Analytical *Lead in surface coating (When request )


Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #23 Component Protocol 800


A- Button Effects of Washing /Dry cleaning AATCC 150- 3 Washes or One

commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion.

*Lead in surface coatings (when request)


*Lead in substrate (when request) Shall not exceed 100 ppm (0.01% by weight)

Attachment Strength ASTM D 7142 15.0 lbs @ 10.0 seconds

Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges

B- Shank Button Effects of Washing/ Dry cleaning AATCC 150- 3 Washes or One

commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No Corrosion

*Lead in surface coatings (When request)


Attachment Strength Pull Method Straight position Slant position @60°

Straight position (Min. 80 lbs); Slant position@ 60 degrees (Min. 80 lbs) Remark: Please report actual data till break (specify if shank fall apart or fabric ruptured).

Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges C-Snap Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One

commercial Dry Cleaning No chipping, cracking, paint loss. No color transfer. No corrosion, detach




Attachment Strength ASTM D7142, Option 2 15.0 lbs @ 10.0 seconds Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges

D- Zipper Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One





Attachment Strength – Top Stop Zip/Unzip Position; Bottom Stop, Slider Lock & Tab

ASTM D2061 Use YKK requirements

Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges

E- Other Hardware (Including Fabric with two layers) Effects of Washing / Dry cleaning AATCC 150 – 3 Washes or One


Attachment Strength Pull Method Manufacturing Qualities Visual No sharp points or edges

Feb. 19, 2014

STANDARD #24 Elastic Protocol 801


A – USA Market Fabric Construction

Elastic Width (mm) Standard Measure As Claimed Elastic Weight ASM D3776 Elastic Construction ASTM D3775 Yarn Size ASTM D1059 Number of Elastic Yarns Visual

Wrapped Yarns Visual Construction/workmanship Visual No Major Defects Dimensional Stability

Laundering – 3 washes AATCC 135 -4% x 1% growth Dry cleaning – 1 cycle dry clean 2% shrinkage

No growth Appearance After Laundering/Dry Cleaning General appearance Visual assessment No distortion, defects, excessive

puckering, Pill- Class 4.0

Stretch & Recovery For Narrow Elastic

Elastic Memory Test (Narrow Elastic)

Stretch at 20 lbf : Length – 120-185% Recovery at 60 Sec: Length – Min 85%

ASTM D 5278

Stretch & Recovery (Fabrics) Stretch

Growth

Recovery <5% Spandex >5% Spandex

One way stretch 20% min. Two way stretch 15% min.

4% maximum

85% Recovery @ 60 min. 90% Recovery @ 60 min.

ASTM D3107

Colorfastness

CF to Home Laundering AATCC 135 1 Wash – Staining: Class 4.0 3 Washes- Color Change: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.5


Commercial Dry cleaning – 1 Cycle Color Change/Staining: Class 4.0 Self-staining: Class 4.0

CF to Crocking AATCC 8/116 Dry: Class 4.0 Wet: Class 3.0

CF to Perspiration AATCC 15 Color Change: Class 4.0 Staining: Class 4.0 Self-Staining: Class 4.5

pH value AATCC 81 6-8 CF to Ozone # AATCC 109, 1 Cycle Class 3.5 CF to Burnt Gas Fumes # AATCC 23, 1 Cycle Class 3.5

* Phenolic Yellowing # ISO 105-X18 Class 3.5

# For indigo Dye, White, Ivory if ≥ 50% coverage

Feb. 19, 2014

Test Protocol for Special Claims – Spec 802

Test Property Test Method Requirement

*Antibacterial activity

assessment of textile

materials

AATCC 147 (If Claimed Anti-Microbial and /or Anti-Bacterial)

No bacterial colonies in contact area :Test Original State Only/20

Home Launderings. All colors must be tested

All colors must be tested

*Water Vapor

Transmission

ASTM E96 (B)

Upright Cup Method

(Test Original State/ 3 Home Launderings)- Breathsble Fabric

≥ 500 g / sq. meter / 24 hours

*Air Permeability ASTM D737 (Test Original State/ 3 Home Laundeirngs)- Windproof claim

1.0 mm/s Max

*Absorbency AATCC 79 (Moisture Management)

Maximum 30 seconds

(Test Original State Only)

*Water wicking test

AATCC 197 (Moisture Management)

(If Claimed "Wicks Away Moisture" or Similar)

3 Inches (minimum) at 30 minutes

(Test original state/5 Washes) All Colors must be tested

*Water repellency:

Spray test

AATCC 22 (Test Original State/ 5 Home Laundeirngs)

Report original and after 5 launderings

Original: ISO 90 minimum

After 5 washes: ISO 70 minimum

*Oil repellency AATCC 118 (Stain proof claims)

(After 5 launderings)

Original: minimum 6

After 5 washes: minimum 4

*Water Resistance: rain

test

AATCC 35 (Water claims)

(Rain test - if claimed water resistant)

Less than 1 gram

Customs Test (Test on garments): No more than 1 gm of water

penetration at 600 mm pressure for a 2 minute duration

*Waterproof AATCC 127 option 2

or ASTM D751

option A

(If Claimed Waterproof)

2000mm w.c. (200 cm w. c. or 196 mbar or 2.86 psi) before and after

5 launderings

*Soil release: oily stain

release method

AATCC 130

(If Claimed)

Original: Grade 3.5

After 5 washes: Grade 3.0

*Wrinkle resistance /

durable press

AATCC 143 Wrinkle Free or Non Iron Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Postcure Process Smoothness: Grade 4 min Pocket seam: Grade 4 min Seams: Grade 4 min (Seams include collar,

Wrinkle Resistant Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Pre-cure Process Smoothness: Grade 3.5 min Pocket seam: Grade 3.5 min Seams: Grade 3.5 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Note: No pleat/crease

Easy Care Claims. Evaluate in original state and after 5 launderings. Smoothness: Grade 3 min Pocket seam: Grade 3 min Seams: Grade 3 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Pleats/Creases: Grade 3 min

Feb. 19, 2014


yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam) Pleats/Creases: Grade 4 min

evaluation Postcure Process Smoothness: Grade 3.5 min Pocket seam: Grade 3.5 min Seams: Grade 3.5 min (Seams include collar, yoke, shoulder, cuffs, center placket, front closure, fly, side seams, inseam)

Pleats/Creases:

Grade 3.5 min

*Fomaldehyde (Wrinkle

Free/ Durable Press

Garment Only)

JIS L1041 < 75 ppm

*pH Valuable (Wrinkle

Free/ Durable Press

Garment Only)

AATCC 81 6.0- 8.0

*Size Sticker Evaluation MTS S026

Effective of heat on

sticker 120 + 2

degrees F for 300

hours

Stickers durability

and residue on

fabrics: 120 + 2

degrees F, 95%

Relative humidity for

6 hours

Effect of Heat on Sticker: No wrinkling, No debonding, No curling

Sticker’s durability and residue on fabrics

No heavy amount of fiber fills on stickers

No amount of adhesive residue remaining on stickers

Color change on fabric: 4.0

*Anti-Fade AATCC 150 (Additional claims)

Evaluate after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.

Color Change: Class 4.0 Minimum

*Anti-pill AATCC 150 (Additional claims)


Pill: Class 4.0 Minimum

*Non-Roll Collar AATCC 150 (Additional claims)


Collar well retain withour rolling defect

*Unbreakable Buttons AATCC 143 (Additional claims)

AATCC 143: Evaluate 30 buttons after 5/10/15/20 home launderings.

No chips, cracks or breakage

ASTM D 5171- Evaluate 30 buttons under 5.5 in- oz impact energy

No chips, cracks or breakage

*Durability of Flocking

AATCC 150 (Additional claims)

Compare original and after 3 Washes, Wash according to care

instructions

Feb. 19, 2014


No obvious defects/observations affecting the end

performance/appearance, color change/ staining, satisfactory

performance of the components and trims.

* Tagless Labels

(Screen Print, Pad Print,

Heat-Set Transfer)

AATCC 150 Wash or dry clean according to proposed care method. Evaluate and

record comments after 5, 10, 15, 20 wash/dry cycle or 5 dry clean

cycles.

Rate:

Color Change- Class 4.0

Self Staining- Class 4.5

Appearance- No fraying, unraveling, cracking, peeling, text must be

legible

*Ultra violet protection

factor (UPF)

AATCC 183-2004 /

ASTM D6544-00

(2007)

/ ASTM D6603-10

(UPF)

(Applicable If claimed)

Perform on “Original” and “after simulated use and care” samples. For

simulated use and care, need to prepare the sample as per ASTM

D6544-00

Report UPF rating only

The UPF rating shall be given as per ASTM Method D6603 as below:

15-24: Good UV protection

25-39: Very good UV protection

40-50+: Excellent UV Protection

*Thermal transmittance

of textile materials

ASTM D1518 (If claimed)

Report result or verify claim (1 rep)

0.6 CLO.

*Feather and down:

Content analysis

ASTM D4524-

86(2005) / IDFB 3

(Original)

As specified (for labeling, follow the USA (ADA) Textile Labeling

Guidelines for Feather and Down)

2 - 3 % Tolerance

*Feather and down: Fill

power

IDFB 10 (Original)

(Steam Conditioning)

As claimed (min.): + or - 5%

If no claim is made, report value only

*Feather and down:

Turbidity

IDFB 11 (Original)

300 mm minimum (US Measurement)

Hypo-allergenic / Super Clean Claims: 500 mm minimum

*Feather and down:

oxygen number

IDFB 21 / IDFB 7 /

JIS 6.6 / EN 1162

(Original)

Less than 10

Hypo-allergenic / Super Clean Claims: < 5

*Feather and down:

Odor

IDFL (Original)

No Putrid Condition

*Feather and down: Fat

and oil

IDFB 4 (Original)

0.7% min - 2.0% Maximum

*Feather and down:

Downproofness

FTM 191- Method

5530 (Modified)

(Original)

Grade 4 Minimum

sgs dxlg protocols 2.19.14 - destination xl group dxlg... · 2018-09-05 · pg 20: appearance...

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