Most international - and daily flights from Kyiv - instead use Simferopol State International airport, which has regular flights to and from Kyiv, Moscow and Istanbul. Located about 20km west of Simferopol, it is a small but (kind of) modern facility. Passport and customs officials should speak English. You will find currency exchange offices (обмен валют) and an ATM (банкомат), and there are several car rental agencies at the airport with fairly good rates.Getting to town Bus 36 runs from Belbek airport to Zakharova pl. on the Sev-ernaya side (and costs 2.50Hr). From there take a boat to Grafskaya pier, also for 2.50Hr. A taxi from the airport to the city centre will cast you about 120Hr.

By SeaThere are no regular scheduled ferries to/from Sevastopol. However, lots of cruise liners dock here for short periods in Sevastopol harbour (mostly during the summer). If you’re lucky to be on such a cruise, make sure you use our guide - even for just one day in the city! From Simferopol Airport, buses leave roughly every 30 minutes to Simferopol railway station, from where there are buses to Sevastopol every 20 or 30 minutes.

By BusMost buses arrive at the city’s central bus terminal (Автовокзал), close to Sevastopol train station. A currency exchange office (обмен валют) and an ATM (банкомат) can be found inside or nearby the station.

Getting to town The bus station is located rather far from the city centre, at the very end of Yuzhnaya Bukhta (Yuzhnaya Bay) - it is far to far to walk. Once you arrive, go to the rear of the station building and to find the city bus stop. From here, Marshrutkas (mini buses) # 109, 110, 112 (for 2.50-3Hr) or trolleybuses 1, 3, 7, 9 for (1.50Hr) will get you to the city centre. A taxi will cost you about 40-50Hr.Bus Station G-4, Vokzalnaya 11, tel. (+380) 692 48 81 99.

By TrainArriving in Sevastopol by train is a rather wonderful travel experience, as you will be passing through tunnels built into the rock and surrounding mountain areas. Regular trains connect Sevastopol with Kyiv, Donetsk, Moscow and St Petersburg. The station building was originally built in the 19th Century, when Sevastopol became the base of Black Sea Fleet of the Russian Empire, but has been twice destroyed since; the current building was constructed after World War II. The Central Bus Terminal is found over the bridge right next to the train station, while the advanced ticket booking office is across the street.

Getting to town The city centre is about three kilometres away. To get there go across the bridge in front of the station building, where you find the bus station terminal. Then follow the instructions above.Train Station G-4, Vokzalnaya 5, tel. (+380) 692 65 51 76.

By PlaneSevastopol’s own Airport (Belbek) serves some irregular flights to and from Istanbul, Moscow, Kyiv and Lviv. Located about 25km north of the city centre, (but only nine km from the Severnaya side of Sevastopolskaya bay).

24-Hours PharmaciesAvik F-3, Ochakovtsev 25A, tel. (+380) 692 54 24 69/(+380) 692 54 56 07. Also at Nakimova 10 and Vakulenchuka 6B.

Magus F-4, Vosstavshykh pl. 19, tel. (+380) 692 55 97 48.Pharmatsiya F-3, Bolshaya Morskaya 48/1, tel. (+380) 692 54 30 26/(+380) 692 55 41 75. Also at Dmitriya Uliyanova 2 and Novikova 31.

Leisure & SportDolphinarium F-2, Kornilova nab. 2, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 55 99 55/(+380) 692 93 07 30, delfin_art@mail.ru, delfinariy.com.Sevastopol Amusement Park F-3, Ochakovtsev. QOpen 9:00 - 19:00.

Express MailDHL F-4, Gogolya 2, app. 233, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 580132, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Express mail F-4, 6-ya Bastionnaya, 46, app. 303, tel. (+380) 692 45 55 94, www.express-mail.net. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Novaya Pochta Rudneva 1G, tel. (+380) 692 47 77 71, novaposhta.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Ukr Post F-3, Bolshaya Morskaya 21, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 54 59 76. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 17:00.

UPS F-4, 6-ya Bastionnaya, 46, app. 503, tel. (+380) 692 46 92 33. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

ShoppingGUM F-3, Mayakovskogo 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 54 23 06. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.

Max Mara G-4, Lenina 72.Musson TC D-5, Vakulenchuka 29, Streletskaya bay, www.musson.ua.Tsentralnyi Rynok (Central Market) F-3, Shcherbaka 1, Artbukhta.QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.

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(Адмирала Фадеева) Admirala Fadeyeva

Stepanyana

Admirala Yumasheva

Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii prospekt

(Просп. Октябрьской Револ юции)

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Shchelkunova

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Mechnikova

(Мечникова)

Kommunisticheskaya

Admirala Azarova

Kievskaya

AvdeyevaKovpaka

(Ковпака)

Rudneva

Руднева Khar

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Shcherbaka

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Zagorodnaya Balka

Safronova

Supruna

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Lom

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Mat

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Naberezhnaya Korn

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Am

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Zodiak

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Omega Club

Villa Venezia

Avrora

Aquamarine Resort

Kruglaya (Omega)Bay

Amurskaya E/F-2Admirala Vladimirskogo E/F-3Admirala Azarova E-4/5Avdeyeva E-5Antonenko E-5Admirala Fadeyeva A/B-4Admirala Yumasheva A/B-4-5Aleksakisa F/G-3Admirala Oktyabrskogo F-4Bolshaya Morskaya F-3/4Belinskogo E-5Balkanskaya E-5Borisova A-5Budennogo F-5Batumskaya F-3/4Chernomorskaya E-4Chapayeva F-5Chastnika F-3/4Chertsova D/E-4Demidova F-2Dalnaya E-5Drevnyaya D-3Dmitriya Ulyanova D-3/4Dekabristov D/C-4Yefremova C-4/5Frunze F-3Feodosiyskaya E-5Glukhova C/D–4Geroyev Bresta A-5Geroyev Stalingrada A-4/5Generala Kreyzera E/F-3Guseva E/F-3Generala Petrova F-3Gromova F-1Godlevskogo F-4Gogolya F-4/5Geroyev Sevastopolya G-3/4Ivana Golubtsa E-4/5,F-5Kapitanskaya F-2Kirpichnaya F-2Kerchenskaya F-3/4Kostomarovskaya F-4Kozhanova F-5Kotovskogo F/C-5Korobkova F/G-5Krasniy Spusk G-3

Khersonskaya E/F-3Katernaya E-3Korsunskaya E-3Karantinnaya E-3Kommunisticheskaya E-3-F-5Kievskaya E-4/5Kovpaka E/F-5Kharkovskaya E-4/5Kiyachenka E/F-3Krupskoi C/D-4Krasnodarskaya D/E-4Lunacharskogo F/G-3Lenina G-2/4Lazarevskaya G-4Lva Tolstogo E-5Lomonosova F-2Lizy Chayikinoy C-4/5Matroskiy per. F-2Mayakovskogo F-3Minnaya G-3Mechnikova E/F-4Matyushenko E-4/5Moskovskaya E-5Matrosova C-4Novorossiyskaya F-3/4Nabereznaya Kornilova F-2Nakhimova prosp. F-2/3Nikolaya Muzyki F-5Niny Onilovoy F/G-5Novikova-Priboya E-3Ochakovtsev F-3/4Odesskaya F-3Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii prosp. A/B-5Pavla Dybenka C-3/4Pontonnaya E-3/4Pionerskaya E-3Pozharova E-3/4Pugacheva E-4Popova F-4Plastunskaya G-4Pushkina G-3/4Revyakina G-4Revolutsii 1905 E-4/5Radishcheva E-5Rybatskiy prichal D/C-4-B-5

Ryabova F-4Repina D-4/5Sladkova C-5Stepanyana B-5Shchitovaya B-3/4Shchelkunova C-4Shostaka D-3/4Safronova E-4/5Simferopolskaya E-5Sukhumskaya E-5Shcherbaka F-2/3Shchorsa F-3Suvorova F-3Shestakova spusk F-3Sovetskaya F-3/4,G-3Shmidta F-4Shvartsa F-4Supruna F-5Stepanenko F-5Trolleybusniy spusk G-4Tereshenko G-3Uralskaya C/D-4Vakulenchuka C/D-5,D-4Voronina F-3Volodarskogo F-3Vostavshykh E/F-4Vokzalnaya G-4/5Vasiliya Kuchera G-3Vatutina F/G-5Yeroshenko D-3/4Yuriya Gagarina C/D-4Yana Gamarnika F-5Zoyi Kosmodemyanskoy C/D-4Zagorodnaya Balka E-3/4Zheleznyakova E-34-ya Bastionnaya F-4/55-ya Bastionnaya F-46-ya Bastionnaya E/F-39-go Yanvarya G-4

street register Arriving & getting Around directoryArriving & getting Around Arriving & getting Around

From Sevastopol City To SevastopolDep. Arr. Dep. Arr.16:05 06:43 DNIPROPETROVSK 21:30 10:1018:00 06:06 DONETSK 20:13 07:3013:40 06:33 KYIV 13:09 06:1018:40 10:55 KYIV 20:21 12:3516:05 19:15 MOSCOW 10:25 10:1020:50 10:06 ST-PETERSBURG 20:07 04:10

During the high season - from the beggining of June until the end of September -- there are additional trains to and from Sevastopol.

Train schedule

City Dep.ARMYANSK 08:55; 10:45; 15:50BAKHCHISARAY 05:40 - 21:30 every 20-30 minutesDNIPROPETROVSK 08:00DONETSK 20:40YEVPATORIA (from Severnaya side)

06:00 - 20:00 every 20-30 minutes

FEODOSIA 07:00; 13:00; 18:30IZMAIL 18:00KERCH 06:20, 15:40KRASNODAR 07:40, 19:40KYIV 15:30MYKOLAIV 13:20NOVOROSSIYSK 09:55ODESA 19:00ROSTOV-NA-DONU 20:25SIMFEROPOL from 06:00 every 30-40 minutesYALTA from 06:20 every 30-40 minutes

Bus schedule

Published by Neolitas-KIS Ltd. © Neolitas-KIS, 2012Comments and enquiries to kyiv@inyourpocket.com, tel. (+ 380) 44 467 78 20.

Cover photo: Vladimir Nikulin Photos: Artur Chirkov, www.virtual-sevastopol.ruMaps: © Neolitas-KIS, 2012Writers: Viktoriya Barchenko, Natasha MartisovaText and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS, 2012. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu g. 9-4, LT-01124, Vilnius, Lithuania).

All editorial content of In Your Pocket mini-guides is free from paid-for advertising. In Your Pocket has made every effort to ensure accuracy of information at the time of going to print and assume no responsibility for changes and errors. (Spring 2012)

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Panorama other museum exhibits were damaged by fire. Only 86 pieces of the canvas were salvaged and taken out of Sevastopol by a navy ship. After the war the Museum was rebuilt, but the restoration of the canvas was impossible the salvaged pieces couldn’t be put together. They served as a reference for creating a replica and on the 100th anniversary of the Siege of Sevastopol in 1954; the museum was open for visiting. There are 13 sculptures of Crimean War heroes in niches around the building. Among them are the famous admirals Kornilov, Nakhimov, and Istomin; the prominent doctor and scientist Nikolay Pirogov, and the world renowned writer Lev Tolstoy, to name a few. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 min before close. Winter season 09:00 - 16:30. Admission 40Hr. Tour in English or German - 550Hr per group up to 10 persons.

Primorskiy Boulevard F-2. The most popular walkway in Sevastopal, enjoyed by both locals & foreigners alike. It is considered to be the heartbeat of the city. It runs from the Grafskaya Pristan monument on Nakhimov Square all the way to Artbukhta. The boulevard opened in 1885 on the site of the former Nikalayevskaya Battery which was destroyed French forces in 1856. The picturesque walkway received its modern touch in 1905, at the commencement of the 50th anniversary of the Siege of Sevastopol, when the dedication of the Monument to Scuttled Ships was held. At the same time the walls, stone benches, and a foot bridge were built.

The Monument to Scuttled Ships F-2, Primorskiy bulv. This impressive structure is more than just a monument of Black Sea Fleet glory-it has become the symbol of the city. It was built in 1905 in commemoration of the heroic Siege of Sevastopol that happened 1854-1855. (Remember your history? Crimean War - Florence Nightingale and the British, French, & Turks against the Russians.) So the Russians sunk their own fleet at the entrance to Sevastopolskaya Bay to prevent the Anglo-French fleet from entering. The monument is on an island, constructed of giant granite boulders 10 meters from the shore.

The Museum of the Black Sea Fleet G-2, Lenina 11, tel. (+380) 692 54 03 92. Almost every place in Sevastopol relates to either the Crimean War or WWII and this museum is no exception. It was established in 1869 at a temporary site. In 1895 the current and very impressive building was finished and it has housed the museum ever since. A cross with the number 349 was placed at the pediment. This cross known as the “Sevastopol Sign” designates the number of days of the Siege of Sevastopol. There are more than 30 000 pieces of history in the eight halls of the Museum. The collection presents the history of the Black Sea Fleet from its formation in 1793 to the present. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 25Hr.

Churches & CathedralsThe All Saint‘s Church E-4, Pozharova 9A, tel. (+380) 692 55 92 75. This Church is unique as it is the oldest building in the city. It was built in 1822 in a classical style and survived both the Crimean War and WW II. Inside the Church, are the holy relicts of Kuksha Noviy, and the Holy Fire is preserved. It is situated on the territory of old city cemetery. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00.

The Cathedral of Protecting Veil F-3, Bolshaya Morskaya 36, tel. (+380) 692 54 54 84. The Cathedral of Protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary was built between 1892 and 1905 from the funds of parishioners. During WW II the building was seriously damaged, and the southern side was completely destroyed. Eventually the Cathedral was renovated and the services were held until 1962. Until 1992 the city’s archive and gym were located inside the building. Placed on the outside of the eastern wall there is a mosaic icon of Protection of the Blessed Virgin Mary. QOpen 07:30 - 19:00.

The St Peter‘s and Paul‘s Cathedral G-3, Lunacharskogo 37, tel. (+380) 692 54 90 17. The Cathedral is located on a hill in the Central City. It was originally built in 1814 in Greek style, but during the Crimean War it was nearly destroyed. It was renovated and reopened, but from Soviet times until 2006 it served as the city’s archive, and the House of Culture. The Cathedral isn’t very big, but makes a sublime impression. The antique temple is raised above the ground floor. There are 44 columns made of Sarmatian limestone placed along the perimeter of the Cathedral. On the east pediment there is a sculpture of the all-seeing eye. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00.

The St Vladimir Admiral‘s Cathedral F-3, Suvorova 3, tel. (+380) 692 54 35 31. This is not only a spiritual site, but one with huge historical significance. The Cathedral is also the burial vault of the Greatest Russian Admirals; Lazarev, Kornilov, Istomin, and Nakhimov. A number of naval officers and Commanders of the Black Sea Fleet were also buried here. There are several marble memorial plaques with the names of 33 heroes of the First Siege of Sevastopol who were awarded the Order of St George, the highest insignia of the Russian Empire. In 1932 the Cathedral was closed and served various purposes. During WW II the Cathedral was destroyed. Renovation works were started in the mid 1960’s. In 1991 the Cathedral renewed religious services. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00.

Chersonesus Taurica National Museum D-2/3, Drevniaya 1, Karantinnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 24 13 01, www.chersonesos.org. Chersonesus Taurica, or as it is called in Ukrainian or Russian, Khersones, was a colony founded by ancient Greeks in the 6 Century BC. It is located on the shore of the Gerakliyskiy peninsula in the Black Sea. For 2,000 years Chersonesus was an important political, economical and cultural centre of the Northern Black Sea coast. This information was obtained when excavations were made in 1827, at three temples discovered in the ancient city’s centre. The Chersonesus settlement is officially recognised not only as a scientific, ar-chaeological, and historical sight, but also as a monument of great artistic value. Chersonesus is a great example of ancient and medieval architecture, sculpture, and urban planning. Modern archaeological excavations have shown that there were more than fifty churches originally belonging to the period of the 5th & 6th centuries. This ancient city was the cradle of Christianity for all Kievan Rus.Nowadays, Khersones is part of the Sevastopol region. The territory is cared for by the National Museum-Sanctuary. On the museum grounds, one can see powerful fortifications, and ruins of an ancient amphitheatre which could hold about 2,500 spectators. During the Roman era gladiators fought here, and now local theatres perform in the summer season. Nearby is the Mint, where the city-state of Chersonesus minted their own money. The collection of the Museum holds about 288 000 pieces. The story of the Fog Bell of Chersonesus is also interesting. There is such a strong local tradition that one is almost obligated to have a photo taken with this bell. Yet this bell actually has nothing to do with the ancient city. Originally it was sent to Sevastopol by the Emperor Alexander I. After the Crimean War it was among the trophies the French army took back to France in order to be melted down for weapons. But the age of bronze cannons passed and the bell was installed on the bell tower of Notre Dame de Paris. It became known to the French consul in Sebastopol, L.I. Ge, who offered to return the bell to the Chersonesus Monastery. In 1925 the Monastery was closed and all bells were melted. This Bell is the only one that avoided this sad fate and was mounted on the shore as a signal bell to the ships during the fog. It wages about 2500 kg. This story is true and can be proven by documented facts; however it is not 100% certain that it was exactly this bell that was returned from France. History of the Soviet times is a bit of a mystery. But who cares? To get to Chersonesus from the city centre take bus #22, which will drop you off right in front of the Museum gate. You can also catch marshrutkas (microbuses) #109, 110 from city centre and tell the driver to stop near Chersonesus (this might be much faster). From the bus stop go slightly back along the road and turn left on Drevniaya Street. Walk about 5 minutes and you’ll see the domes of St Volodymyr’s Cathedral.QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Museum open 09:00 - 17:00 and 09:00 - 19:00 during summer season. Admission 35Hr, 20Hr for children. Admission with an English guide 60Hr, 40Hr for children.

St Vladimir‘s Cathedral D-2/3, Drevniaya 1, tel. (+380) 692 24 40 14. It just so happens that Sevastopol has two Cathedrals named after St Vladimir. In 1825, it was first suggested to build a Cathedral dedicated St. Vladimir in the heart of the ancient Greek city. But the first St Vladimir’s Cathedral was built in the city centre. Then the Crimean War started and only in 1861 the building works for the original cathedral were started. It is believed that the Cathedral was built on the remains of the ancient Church where the baptism of Prince Vladimir took place in 988. The interior of the Cathedral is rich and marvellous. The walls are covered with fair marble, the floors are decorated with mosaics, and radiant light streams through stained-glass windows. During the Soviet times the Cathedral was closed and in WW II it was damaged by a bomb. Renovation works were completed in the 1990’s and in 2001 the Cathedral was consecrated in the presence of the Presidents of Ukraine and Russia. Since 2004 it has been open to visitors and holds services. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Chersonesus Tauric

Essential Sights35th Seacost Battery Kazachya bay, tel. (+380) 692 59 00 64. This place is a unique example of military architecture. The construction of the battery began in 1912, but was interrupted by WW I. It wasn’t until 13 years later that the new Soviet authorities found the old engineering designs and in 1929 the battery was finished. Even today in the 21st Century, one finds this construction quite striking. There are four stories; three are underground which were built with 3.5-4.5 meters of reinforced concrete. The Battery could withstand a direct hit of a two ton bomb,

and it was protected against gas attacks and chemical warfare. The fortress was equipped with a bakery, a complex water supply and sewage system, a power plant, boiler, telephone, radio and many other necessities. The Battery is open and offers guided excursions. To get there, take bus numbers 14 or 95 in the direction of Kazachya Bay. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Tours start every 30 min. From October to April the sight is open 10:00 - 17:30 with tours every hour. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission and tours are free.

Aquarium F-2, Nakhimova prosp. 2, tel. (+380) 692 54 38 92, www.sevaquarium.com. In ArtBukhta, the very centre of Sevastopol is the Institute of Biology of Southern Seas. On the bottom floor of the Institute is a Sea Aquarium-Museum. Founded in 1897, this is one of the oldest of its kind in the world, and the only one in Ukraine. There are over 180 kinds of sea creatures on exhibit. Aside from the usual tropical fish aquariums, the Museum has a special collection of Black Sea inhabitants. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. During winter season 10:00 - 17:00. Close Mon. Admission 30Hr, children 15Hr.

Common Grave Cemetery Bogdanova 43, Severnaya side. From various high spots around the city, one can see the hill on the Severnaya side. It can be easily seen thanks to the unique pyramid form of the church. This is a cemetery with 472 common graves. In each lie hundreds of nameless warriors who died during the Siege of Sevastopol. There are also 130 individual graves of officers. Part of the cemetery holds graves of Soviet soldiers who fought here during WW II. A 12 meter high memorial figure of a sorrowful sailor marks the common grave of sailors from the Novo-

rossiysk battleship. They died in 1955 from an explosion onboard the ship. The Church of St Nickolas in the form of a truncated pyramid was built here in 1870 in memory of those killed in the Crimean War. Inside the Temple there is a memorial plaque inscribed in gold with the 943 names of the officers who died there. To get there take a boat from Grafskaya Pristan to Zakharova Square, from where bus #48 will take you to the cemetery. Ask driver to stop near Bratskoe Kladbische.

Diorama Museum Sapun Gora, tel. (+380) 692 63 15 93. 6 km from Sevastopol on the summit of Mount Sapun there is a semi-round building in plain style. This is the largest diorama in the world. The building itself is a part of memorial complex dedicated to the Soviet forces that freed Sevastopol from German occupation in 1944. The complex also includes a monument to the libera-tors, an eternal fire, memorial walls, a chapel, and an open-air exhibition of military equipment from WW II. The canvas of the diorama itself is 25.5 meters in length and 5.5 meters in height. Along

with the painting, the diorama contains replica human figures and other figures and items which makes it more realistic and gives one the impression of actually being there. The canvas shows the key moment of the storm of Mount Sapun on the 7th of May, 1944 by the Soviet army. To get there; take the marshrutka (micro bus) #107 from the city centre. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. October - June closed on Mon.

Grafskaya Pier G-2, Nakhimova pl., Yuzhnaya bay. This is a monument of both historical and architectural significance. (It looks a lot like the Brandenburg Gate but with closer-together pillars.) Grafskaya Pristan was originally built in 1780 as a wooden moorage on the western side of Yuzhnaya Bay. Origionally it was named “ Yekaterynynskaya Pristan”, but that never really caught on. Then came along Count Voynovych who was the Commander of the Black Sea Fleet from 1786-1790. He lived on the Severnaya (Northern) Side and moored at this pier every time he came into town. It eventually

became the main pier of Sevastopol and today is the home of the Russian and Ukrainian Black Sea naval Fleets.

Istoricheskiy boulevard F-4, near Ushakova sq. This green picturesque walk-ing area had become popular amongst locals even before the Crimean War. During the Siege of Sevastopol, the 4th Battery was located here. In 1873 local authorities agreed that former fortifications would never be touched, and this site has since become a monument in commemoration of the Crimean War. At the end of the 19th century, stone pedestals showing numbers of former batteries were installed here. The remainder of the monuments were finished in 1904-1905. The impressive building of the Panorama Museum occupies the central place on Historical boulevard. There is an interesting fact about this place. The Yazon redoubt (stronghold) was located here during the Crimean War, and on this fortification the famous Russian writer Lev Tolstoy actually took part in the fighting. At the far end there is an amusement park with a big Ferris wheel. For 5Hr one may take a ride any time of the year and see an amazing view of not only the Historical boulevard, but also the entire city of Sevastopol.

Konstantinovskiy Ravelin F-1, Severnaya side. Since 1840 this reinforced battery has been the main obstacle for enemy fleets attempting to enter Sevastopol Bay. A stone battery with 94 guns served Sevastopol during both the Crimean War and WWII. It is 230meters in length, 25meters in width and is 10m above sea level. Nowadays it has lost its military importance and belongs to Russian Black Sea Fleet, being a beautiful archi-tectural decora-tion of the city.

Malakhov‘s Barrow tel. (+380) 692 49 97 86. On the Korabelnaya side of the city, the leg-endary barrow rises. It was 1851 when this name first appeared on plans and maps. It was named in honour of M.Malakhov, the staff captain of the Black Sea Fleet. The memorial complex here is a monument to both the Crimean War 1854-1855 and WW II. Here was the main bastion for this side of the city. This hill was the place where the French army focused most of its attacks. Three admirals Kornilov, Nakhimov, and Istomin were fatally injured here. At the top of the hill there is a defensive tower, one of the few preserved fortification structures of the mid 19th century. Over 20 monuments and memorial markers tell visitors of the heroic deeds of the defenders of Sevastopol. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon (except July - September)

Mikhailovskiy Ravelin G-1, Gromova 35, Severnaya side, tel. (+380) 692 63 75 90. The Milhailovskiy and Konstantinovskiy Ravelins are two surviving stone batteries that remain out of the ten original fortified structures of the 19th century. Both fortifications were named after the sons of the Emperor Nicholas I. Built in 1846 it had 77 cannon to dispel would be invaders. In 2010, on the national “Day of Ukrainian Naval Forces”, the Naval Museum of Ukraine was opened. 20 exposi-tion halls display over 10 000 pieces. One unique exhibit is the personal seal of the outstanding Black

Sea Fleet Commander, scientist, and Antarctic explorer Admiral Mikhail Lazarev. To get to the museum, one must take a boat from Artbukhta to Radiogorka. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 25Hr, children 10Hr.

Panorama The Siege of Sevastopol F-4, Istoricheskiy bulv., tel. (+380) 692 49 97 38. This Panorama is both an historical and an artistic monument, portraying the heroic deeds of the city defenders on June 6, 1855. This was during the Crimean War when Anglo-French forces stormed the City. The enormous painting is 115meters in length and 14 in height. It was created between 1901-1904 in Munich by Franz Roubaud with the help of painters and students of the Bavarian Art Academy. The building which hosts Panorama is itself a masterpiece of architecture. The location

on Istorichesliy bulvar (Historical boulevard) was specially chosen for the painting. In 1942, during WW II, the building was struck by bombs and a huge part of the

sightseeing sightseeing

Bars & PubsArtishok F-3, Senyavina 4, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 95 354 50 45. The Ar-tishok club and Hamster brewery peacefully co-exist on the same territory. Every night the club has a different musical programme, with the genres ranging from salsa to country music. Live performances from local bands are complemented by freshly brewed beer and in-house sausages that will help you regain the calories you lose busting those star moves on the dance floor. Lighter options, salads, shots and long drinks are also available. In the summer all the windows are open so the smoke is not a problem; in the cold season smokers are separated. Birthday girls and boys are get free entrance, while for others the cover charge starts at 20Hr. English menu, English-speaking staff. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAGX

Matrëshka vodka-bar F-3, Bolshaya morskaya 11, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 50 220 34 13. The posh entrance will lead you to a room filled with red boudoir lights, funny objects on the walls and smoke in the air. Prices are moderate, as the main crowd here is the local youth, including contingent from both the Russian and Ukrainian naval fleets. Their eyes linger on the pin-ups of girls in striped undershirts and on the bit of wisdom written on the wall: “Drink a shot, pick up your cap.” No English menu. No English spoken, free entrance. QOpen 24hrs.

Pena Pub F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 45 58 72/(+380) 994 41 75 11. This place has a distinct split personality. Upstairs there‘s a male feel, with lots of wood, old fashioned pictures on the walls, smoking, and good hamburgers and steaks. Downstairs feels female, with soft furniture, pictures of flowers, a warm palette and homemade desserts (try their strudel or the chocolate fudge cake). Either way it‘s a great location, especially the summer terrace with an extensive grill menu, Belgian beers and light sorbets for desserts. Check is 250Hr per person. English menu, at least some English-speaking staff. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PTW

Ringo Starr F-2, Kapitanskaya 2, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 55 00 44. The design of this cool space was inspired by the Beatles. A rock‘n‘roll soundtrack plays and there‘s live music from time to time. Check out the long list of shots and cocktails. This place is right on the water, so it‘s the right place at which to get your summer night buzz going. Others, though, will have the same idea, so the place can get pretty crowded and smoky. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGX

Superhero cocktail bar F-3, Bolshaya morskaya 6, Atrbukhta, tel. (+380) 95 744 54 74. On the other side of the street from Matreshka stands this bar styled in a way that’s conceptually and even geopolitically different. The main de-sign theme is the comics and the cheap cocktails are named after superheroes, while they kids that work here are true aficionados. The place has the right mojo, so come here for good cheap shot and maybe some hookah, while the DJ plays some music from Batman. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.

ClubsKalipso F-2, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 93 31 43/(+380) 67 601 96 64. From Russian pop to recent Grammy-winning hits and European disco classics, Kalipso‘s house DJs will play it all, as long as it‘s fun and danceable. This gigantic club right on the waterfront opened a while ago and still attracts clientele, even in mid-winter. There‘s not much in terms of décor, but in summer all the windows are thrown open to reflect the city lights reflecting on the water, so no extra embellishment is needed. Drinks are relatively inexpensive (40% off before 10 p.m.), the menu is a typical local take on European classics, and smoking is allowed all over the place. Admission - starting 20Hr . Fridays and Saturdays - special show. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. P

Premier F-2, Kapitanskaya 2, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 54 25 83/(+380) 66 360 28 30. A good place to chill out and have a drink while checking out the action on the tight dance floor. There are plenty of stylish neon-highlighted chairs to kick back in, the longest bar in town, and a bottle-juggling bartender who will mix whatever you can think of. Guest DJs come from all around the post-Soviet territo-ries, and the music varies accordingly. Relatively high door prices and face control make sure that the town‘s glamorous element predominates. Admission fee - 50Hr. The place does not work in the summer. In the winter it is open only on weekends. QOpen , Sat, Sun 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri. P

White People F-2, Kornilova nab. 9, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 50 324 68 98. Whiteness is the name of the game here, from the white artificial fluff covering the majority of surfaces to the white glass walls. This is a glamorous and, due to that fluff, highly flammable place, and one that can turn into a torture chamber if the wrong person gets on the karaoke machine. Be prepared for a wait if you order food after 10 p.m. By summer the club migrates to a barge moored right outside the main establishment, and is characterized by far more energy than it is by winter. QOpen 15:00 - 06:00. PAGX

Known, still, as very much a city of Russian Sailors and Russian Glory, all 220 years of Sevastopol’s history are filled with tales of naval heroics, and it can still seem as though everything in Sevastopol is connected to the navy in one way or another. Founded in 1784 by Catherine the Great, the city was intended to mark the final conquest of the Russian Empire on the Black Sea. Only 20 years after its foundation Sevastopol displaced Kherson to became the main navy port of the Black Sea Fleet, and five years later became a military fortress.Yet the full history of Sevastopol actually begins long long ago, in the times of Ancient Greece and its expansion into the Crimea. In 422 – 421 BC the city-colony of Chersonesus Taurica was founded between Pescshana and Karantinna Bays on the Heraclic Peninsula, built by the Greeks on the ruins of an ancient Tauric settlement. A history of Chersonesus is usually dividedinto two periods: the Ancient, and the Middle Ages. During the Ancient times (5th-1st centuries BC), Chersonesus became a great political and cultural centre of the Northern Black Sea.In the 5th century Chersonesus became subordinate to the Byzantine Empire and was the first city on the territory of modern Ukraine to confess Christianity. In 988-989 Chersonesus (or Korsun as it was called in the Kyivan Rus) was besieged and taken by Prince Vladimir. As a result Vladimir was baptized himself. There followed nearly three hundred years of Turkish rule, from 1475 to 1774, a calm yet stagnant period in the history of South-Western Crimea as the Ottoman Empire extended its power over the entire coast of the Black and Azov seas. The area was safe from piracy, war, and civil strife. It was only occasionally disturbed by Cossacks.Following the Crimean War between Russia and Turkey from 1768-1774 the Crimea became a possession of Russia. On February 10, 1783 Empress Catherine II issued a decree ‘To Found the Fortress of Sevastopol.’In the middle of 19th century British, French and Turkish fleets invaded the area north of Sevastopol. The 349 days of heroic siege which followed went down in history as the First Siege of Sevastopol. The Second Siege lasted 250 days during the World War II.Until almost the very end of the 20th century Sevastopol was one of the Soviet Union’s closed cities: to visit you had to have an invitation from someone living there. Nowadays Sevastopol is very much an open city, although it is still the base of the Russian Black Sea Fleet and the Ukrainian Naval Forces. It has become one of the most interesting tourist destinations in Ukraine.To make it easier for you to navigate Sevastopol, in this guide (and with some help from the residents of Sevastopol themselves) we have linked every venue and sight to the bays of the city. We have used the local names, so the very centre of the city is Artbukhta (Artileriyskaya Bay), while the Severnaya side is the area across the main Sevastopolskaya bay. Regular ferries connect the two sides.We also cover Balaklava in this guide, one of the most marvellous places in all Crimea.We really hope that you’ll enjoy Sevastopol as we do!

Khersones Boutique Hotel D-3, Drevnyaya 34, Karantinnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 24 15 87/(+380) 692 53 60 69, office@hersones.com.ua, www.hersones.com.ua. This hotel is minutes away from the remains of the Greek polis of Khersones. That must have inspired its owners to embellish suites to reflect antique myths and aesthetics, among other things. There are mosaics, replicas of antique statues and vases, frescos, columns, zodiac signs, Arabian tassels, and Atlantis boats - nothing was spared. More traditional suites are also available and are usually cheaper. The apartment-type premises are equipped with kitchens, stoves, tableware and laundry machines. The Paradise restaurant on the first floor will serve you European cuisine with a local twist. Rooms are non-smoking. Parking is limited. There is a children‘s playground with a trampoline and an outdoor swimming pool. Grown-ups will enjoy sauna and open-air theatrical performances by a local troupe. Q16 rooms (14 Junior suite 550 - 1800Hr, 2 Suite 1300 - 2300Hr). PTHA6LGKDCW

Morskoy B-5, Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii prosp. 44, Omega bay, tel. (+380) 692 41 17 76, hotel.m@mail.ru, morskoy.crimea.ua. Party people might like this place, as the hotel stands on a busy street. 24/7 there‘s some sort of action: the beach (15 min away), pubs, restaurants, cafés, a shopping centre, a night club and even a pharmacy, which might come in handy after too much of a good time. Some rooms bear the scent of tobacco and are the product of an interior designer who has let his or her imagination go wild. Breakfast is served in the Shtirlitz pub next door. Q20 rooms (singles 470Hr, doubles 470 - 640Hr, suites 800Hr, apartments 1110Hr). PK

Olymp F-4, Kulakova 86, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 97 021 14 14, olymp@inbox.ru, www.olymp-hotel.com. A good place to crash if you‘re on a business trip. This place might not excite you, but it will give you a good night‘s rest, since the hotel stands on a quiet street (though it‘s five minutes away from one of the busiest squares in town). There are separate rooms for smokers and non-smokers, minibars in the rooms, a lobby bar, a sauna, English-speaking personnel and a small conference facility. Q15 rooms (Standard 600 - 750Hr, Junior suite 750 - 900Hr, Suite 950 - 1150Hr). PHAGDXW

Omega Club D-3, Letchikov 5, Omega bay, tel. (+380) 692 92 03 30/(+380) 692 92 03 80, www.omega-club.com. This club opened a while ago on the coast of pretty Omega bay, on the outskirts of the city. Rooms are located on the second and third floors of the main building, as well as in bungalows (which are equipped with kitchens). The good things about Omega Club are its pool, the loads of fragrant southern plants and flowers, that it‘s right by the beach, a big indoor pool filled with seawater, the good sauna and the restaurant that prepares everything from scratch. The downsides are that some of the rooms scream “post-Soviet” and that it will take you about 15-20 minutes to get to the center of the city by bus. Rooms overlook a former helicopter plant, which now is a gigantic parkland territory. There are separate smoking and non-smoking rooms, WiFi is free only in the public areas, regular Internet is free. Q12 rooms (5 singles 580 - 720Hr, doubles 630 - 820Hr, 4 apartments 880 - 2200Hr, 3 Deluxesuite 750 - 970Hr, Bungalow 770 - 1200Hr). GKDXCW

Reikartz Sevastopol Geroev Stalingrada 22, Kamyshova bay, tel. (+380) 692 96 15 05, sevastopol.hotel@reikartz.com, en.reikartz.com. Located on the outskirts of town near the cargo port, this hotel started in the 1960s as a place for seamen on stopovers. That lasted until one of the most dynamically developing hotel chains in Ukraine, the Reikartz chain, fully renovated two floors of the build-ing and turned it into a 3-star hotel that opened in July of 2011. Belgian architect Francois Ryckaerts defined the style of the hotels: light, modern, minimalistic and overall very pleasant. The other premises in this building are still operating as a modestly priced hotel, while awaiting renovation as well. Even though the beach is not too far away, this place has a distinct “business trip hotel” feel to it. Q25 rooms (2 singles 550Hr, 5 doubles 650 - 750Hr, 18 Superior 750 - 850Hr). PHA6KDW hhh

Ukraine F-4, Gogolya 2, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 54 21 27/(+380) 50 608 15 58, office@ukraine-hotel.com.ua, www.ukraine-hotel.com.ua/eng. The hotel has been in business for almost five decades, so it knows what it‘s doing: there are people who have been coming here over and over again for years, no matter what, including a group of painters who stay every season and paint Crimean landscapes. (They pay for their stay with their paintings). The hotel isn‘t the city‘s most upscale (it hasn‘t been bought by some major chain or a Russian oligarch), but management does what‘s in its power to keep it clean, renovated and friendly. We suggest you to go for standards or higher. The location is pretty central, with plenty of restaurants around and the Panorama museum just a short walk away. Q44 rooms (4 Economy 390 - 480Hr, 29 Standard 510 - 760Hr, 7 Junior suite 810 - 910Hr, 4 Suite 910 - 1010Hr). PHALW

Villa Venezia B-3, Shchitovaya 23A, Streletskaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 93 18 33/(+380) 99 114 57 57, villa_venezia@mail.ru, villa-venezia.com.ua. A good, inexpensive place to stay near the beach, a spa (at the Aquamarine hotel) and an amusement park. This villa stands just a short walk away from the Aquamarine in a developing residential area. That means dirt roads and construction sites beyond fences, but the place itself has a pretty good view of the Streletskaya bay and the sea. The rooms are roomy and the interior is Venice-inspired, in a tasteful way. A restaurant (traditional Slavic menu, Crimean wines), a sauna and playgrounds for kids are at your service. Administrator speaks English. All the rooms are non-smoking. Spacious balconies. Q7 rooms (2 Standard 450 - 600Hr, 1 Standard superior 650 - 700Hr, 2 Suite 650 - 750Hr, 2 VIP 850 - 1000Hr, Additional bed 120 - 150Hr). PTALGKW

Zodiak F-4, Kulakova 76, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 54 44 39, zodiac12@bk.ru, www.zodiacsev.com. A cosy little new hotel on a central residential street just a few minutes away from the Olimp hotel, and if you‘re here either for business or to explore the city this might be your place. Rooms are spacious and clean and fully equipped. All the rooms are non-smoking, but there are balconies. They might not speak to you in English, but they will understand your emailed booking request. The sauna is open to the public, so there might be some traffic of locals in the lobby in the afternoon, especially on weekends. Q12 rooms (5 Standard 430 - 610Hr, 4 Junior suite 620 - 800Hr, 3 Suite 880 - 990Hr). PHALGDW

Zuyd F-4, 4ya Bastionnaya 48/2, Yuzhnaya bay, hotelzuyd@mail.ru, www.hotel-zuyd.com/eng. Built as a part of a business complex in 2007, this hotel has that local-officials-and-businessmen target clientele feel to it. The prices vary from modest to pretty steep, the interior is quiet and dignified, the apartments have kitchenettes, and some windows have a view of the sea (due to the elevated location of the building) and of the historical part of the city. The Panorama, the railway station, and the main square are all within walking distance. The hotel is smoke free, WiFi is restricted to the lobby and there‘s a room equipped for the disabled. Not all the receptionists speak English and not all of them always smile. Q (singles 460 - 750Hr, doubles 720 - 1000Hr, Junior suite 760 - 1100Hr, Suite 900 - 1600Hr, Apartment 1300 - 3300Hr). PAULGKW

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Admiral F-3, Shcherbaka 22A, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 55 40 07, fax (+380) 692 55 76 96, hotel@admiraldom.com, www.admiraldom.com. One of the best in town, this hotel is new (opened in 2010) and thought through to the last detail. It‘s ideal for business travelers and the location is great: close to the city centre, but on the quiet residential street. Warm wood and leather in the interior give the place a sense of the old world dignity and the courtyard, with its roses and exotic bushes, is surrounded by a fence, providing privacy for you and secure parking for your car. The basement has a small sauna and a swimming pool. The rooms are elegant and fully equipped with the necessities. The hotel is nonsmoking. Breakfast is served in the café on the first floor. The personnel speak foreign languages. The hotel has been certified with four stars (according to Ukrainian state standards) and the owner/manager makes sure it lives up to that status. Q19 rooms (singles 650 - 750Hr, Junior suite 750 - 850Hr, Suite 1250Hr). PALGDCW hhhh

Aquamarine Resort B-3, Parkovaya 11, Streletskaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 53 94 94, reservation@a.crimea.ua, www.aquamarinehotel.com.ua/en. The finest place to vegetate in style for a week or three, and with style, too - Aquama-rine‘s five stars will guarantee that. There are spacious designer suites (named after seas of the world), most likely the best spa in Crimea, and Lavanda restaurant, serving European cuisine with local accents. There‘s also another place to eat, Temari, a fusion restaurant, and a summer terrace with a spectacular view of the sea. And that‘s not to mention the amusement park right next door. After all that the hotel‘s pools, outdoor Water Park and tennis and other sports courts almost sound banal. A multifunctional conference hall is an ideal for meetings up to 250 seats. The hotel places smokers and non-smokers on different floors. The private well equipped beach is a stone‘s throw away and a taxi will take you anywhere else you want in the city or its surroundings. The city bus is also an option - it stops right outside the hotel. Q126 rooms (102 Superior 1400 - 1800Hr, 6 Junior suite 2300Hr, 18 Suite 2300 - 2900Hr). PHAUGBKXCW hhhhh

Atrium King‘s Way Geroev Stalingrada prosp. 47, Omega bay, tel. (+380) 692 41 81 71/(+380) 99 136 75 70, info@kw2002.com, kw2002.com. This 3-star establishment has since 2008 been ideal for business travellers who don‘t need to be right in the centre of town. The hotel and its guarded territory are in the middle of a new residential district. The place is quiet, clean, friendly and inexpensive. The rooms are spacious, the interior is classically European, and there‘s a café with summer terrace, a small conference hall, a sauna, secure parking and premises for people with disabilities. Breakfast is included. It will take you 10-15 minutes on any city bus to get to the centre. Also, if you need a driver, a guided tour, an interpreter, a transfer, a babysitter or a pass to a private beach, just name it and they‘ll get it for you. Q17 rooms (9 Standard 390 - 520Hr, 4 Junior suite 470 - 690Hr, 4 Suite 710 - 970Hr). PHAULBDW hhh

Avrora F-5, Kozhanova 12, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 54 67 55, avro-rasales@mail.ru, hotel-avrora.com.ua/indexE.html. A good place for budget travellers. Before its reincarnation as a hotel it was the administrative building of a machinery repair factory, which explains the narrow corridors, the industrial sur-rounding landscape and the sparse attractions on the nearby streets. A 15-minute stroll along that street, however, will lead you practically to the city centre. The rooms are small and clean, and we dare say cute in their attempt to mimic naval aesthetics. The place is named after the famous revolutionary-era battleship Aurora, which is pictured on the front wall of the hotel. Q15 rooms (singles 290Hr, doubles 440Hr). PGXW

Best Western Sevastopol F-2, Nakhimov prosp. 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 90 60, info@sevastopol-hotel.com.ua, sevastopol-hotel.com.ua. This handsome white giant dates to 1954, when it was built in the best tradition of neo-classical Soviet hotel aesthetics. The new owners kept the old-hotel style and upped the quality of the rooms and the service to a solid 3-star level, while importing the standards of the Best Western franchise. The rooms are great, the staff is friendly and location is to die for. Even the standard room have sea views. Buffet breakfasts, among the best in Crimea, are served in the Sevastopol restaurant. Truly one of the best places to stay in Sevastopol. Q106 rooms (39 singles 504 - 560Hr, 30 doubles 567 - 630Hr, 20 Twin 567 - 700Hr, 8 Junior suite 805 - 895Hr, 8 Suite 918 - 1020Hr, 1 Apartments Hr). PAUKW hhh

Delfin D-3, Yeroshenka, 20, Karantinnaya bay, tel. +380692479252, fax +380692479404, mail@hotel-dolphin.com.ua, hotel-dolphin.com.ua. Twenty years ago this place, located on the road to the Khersones archaeological site, was a super-popular restaurant among locals. In 2006 it was rebuilt as a small elegant hotel. There isn‘t much of a view, but guests will get friendly treatment, decently furbished rooms, a beauty salon and a restaurant on the first floor and a museum and a beach 10 minutes away. Q (Junior suite 500 - 625Hr, Suite 750 - 915Hr). PHALGKDW

introducing sevAstoPoL where to stAy where to stAy

nightLife

MINI-GUIDE

Map Hotels Restaurants Bars Sights

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted B Terrace

T Child friendly L Guarded parking I Fireplace

V Home delivery U Facilities for the disabled S Take away

G Non-smoking areas E Live music

W Wi-Fi Internet access 6 Animal friendly

Symbol key

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

where to stAy

CafésBaron Crouton F-2, Nakhimova prosp. 5, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 54 32 32. Muffins, pies, croissants, baguettes, buns, candies, cakes and pastries of all sorts are baked here on the premises. Take your stuff out with you in a paper bag, cross the street and eat on a bench by the sea; alternately, stay on the terrace with a cup of tea and a book (or your iPad, these days), watching the world pass by. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. PSW

Buonissimo F-2, Aivazovskogo 7, Artbukhta. The best cappuccino in town is available here, not to mention some excellent fruit pie. While enjoying our cof-fee we saw a very expressive dark-haired guy in the corner. Our suspicions were correct: it was the Italian owner. So we added some ice cream to the order: it would be a crime to be in an Italian-owned gelateria and not try the gelato. And bingo: it turned out that the ice-cream is made right in the shop, and is just as good as you‘ll find in Milan. Throw in the great prices and this place can certainly make your morning. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. P

Café 1820 F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 10, Artbukhta. A cute place for your after-noon tea and a made-in-house dessert. Alternatively, salads and decent chicken or turkey breast sandwiches will leave you happy, all in a classic European tea-room interior with pictures of flowers in classic English style. The place is non-smoking and English-friendly. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. AG

Domashnie Pirogi F-5, Gogolya 30, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 99 292 57 66. The banner in front presents visitors with a crucial question: What if you want some pie but your grandmother‘s in another city? You‘ll get the answer inside, where you‘ll be presented with a bunch of types of home-made pies (cabbage, salmon, cheese, apple, berry and many more). The friendly girl will slice up the one you want so that you can eat it with a cup of tea and a book of your choice (there are boxes with old books right in the back). This is a Sevastopol take on a hippie bakery and the goods they sell are scrumptious. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Iskrinka G-2, Lenina 8, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 54 23 38. A lovingly preserved Soviet café, actually preserved from the old days, with good soups like borsch, solyanka, and rassolnik as well as inexpensive local and Georgian brandies. Iskinka is located relatively close to the train station, and the place is popular with rock-climbers who drop in to restore the calories they lose on southern Crimea‘s cliffs before catching their train back to Kyiv or Moscow. The desserts, which are heavy on real cream, walnuts, and chocolate are good and very filling. Make sure to bring along a local, as no English is spoken in this Soviet timewarp of a place, or prepare to use your body language. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. P

Nakhimov Café & Pub F-2, Nakhimova prosp. 5, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 96 646 40 01. This place proudly carries the banner of glamour in Sevastopol. There’s a sleek, minimalist design and prices that are higher than elsewhere in town, which ensures an exclusive clientele. European/Mediterranean dishes include thin-crust pizza and there are wines by the glass and wi-fi (they also rent out netbooks to the guests). A good place for lunch or an elegant dinner for two. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGXW

Q Bar G-2, Lenina 8A, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 93 679 31 30, www.qbar.com.ua. This establishment boasts two cool spaces (smoking and non-smoking ), an extremely cosy summer terrace (even in the dead of winter), and a hip old-school rock‘n‘roll soundtrack - sleek waiters and wifi attract local hipsters with iBooks and iPads. Prices are about 20% higher than those you‘ll typically find around Sevastopol, but who cares? Coming here is worth it. Oh, the place is anglophone friendly. You might not stand a chance leaving here sober, giving the extensive list of liquors on hand. QOpen 24hrs. AEGBX

Shokoladnitsa F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 10, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 90 73, www.shoko.com.ua. A café next door to the Best Western Sevastopol hotel. The space has been renovated with respect for the building‘s classic archi-tectural heritage; the café itself is part of the Russian chain widespread in Russia and Ukraine. The classic salads, pastries and cappuccinos are at a universally decent level. Keep it traditional and order a Caesar salad, cappuccino or napoleon, and you won‘t be disappointed. The place is open 24 hours, an advantage in a neighbourhood that tends to shut down at 11 p.m. QOpen 24hrs. PAGX

RestaurantsBarkas F-2, Kapitanskaya 2A, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 50 56. This place belongs to the BRS family of restaurants, along with Vash Lavash, Vanilnyi Blues and the Varenichnaya Pobeda. These people take service and quality seri-ously, and the location can‘t be beat. The fish is fresh (they even own the fish

farm), the design is uncluttered, and the menu is simple and westerner-friendly, including decent wines by the glass. The prices are higher than elsewhere in the city but won‘t shock a visitor from the West. During the high season, booking ahead is advised. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAVGBXS

BlackSea F-3, Senyavina 4, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 50 51, www.blacksea.ua. A vast place with decent prices that targets young locals (the Artishock club is upstairs) in the off-season and tourists in the summer. All the bases are covered in that post-Soviet way: the minimalistic design recalls a sushi place, the drive-through window recalls McDonalds, and the English-language menu with its calorie counts evokes an American diner. The menu offers everything from sushi to salads to fish. Healthy eating is the theme of the place, so you‘re less in danger of getting a salad slathered in mayo. The personnel are nice and the place is airy and cool. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PGX

Il Patio F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 95 89. A member of the Russian chain that flourishes in Ukrainian, with spacious premises right over the pedestrian/park area along the sea. Prices are high for Sevastopol, but reasonable from a westerner‘s point of view. The pizzas, pastas, and antipasti are solid and real mozzarella is used on the pizzas - a fact that alone deserves praise in the Russian-speaking world. The tiramisu is flavourful and moist and comes in a large portion. (If you‘re watching your diet, split it with a friend). There are Italian wines by the bottle, though not many by-the-glass choices, and the pizzas have nice thin crusts. There‘s an English menu, with illustrations. The Canti Rosso house wine goes well with sun-dried tomatoes in salata fresca with aspara-gus, baby spinach, and iceberg lettuce sprinkles, with a ginger-infused dressing. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAUGBXW

Lavanda B-3, Parkovaya 11, Aquamarine Resort, Streletskaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 53 99 99/(+380) 692 53 94 94. A light and airy interior, a mouth-watering selection of homemade pastas, bread and candies, a menu built around local produce, including fresh fish, local greens, vegetables, and marbled beef raised in an elevated Crimean pasture, all cooked and presented in a creative and elegant manner: that‘s what you get at Lavanda restaurant. It‘s worth a trip out here, especially in summer, as the fresh sea air washes off the water just a hundred yards away. On Fridays live music plays. And check their website for announcements, as Lavanda is continuously hosting holiday-themed parties and various gourmet festivals. Smoking/non-smoking: in the winter the dining room is non-smoking, in the summer smoking is allowed on the terrace. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PALGBX

O Sole Mio F-2, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 94 94 16. This pizza place with its furniture painted in funny colours is located right on the waterfront - a perfect location for attracting tourists. So it‘s a good thing, then, that the pizzas are top-notch. There‘s real mozzarella on top (not to be taken for granted the in post-Soviet space) and all the right traditional ingredients (also something not to be taken for granted). The pies are a bit pricy (35-90Hr) and sized for one person, but they‘re worth it. One bummer is that there‘s no toilet on the premise: you have to use the public facilities a dozen yards away. (Such is the situation with many places standing on this stretch along the waterfront). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. P

Paradiz D-3, Drevnyaya 34, Karantinnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 24 15 87, www.hersones.com.ua/paradiz. This restaurant located on the first floor of the Khersones Boutique Hotel might not be worth an individual trip, but if you‘re ready for lunch after working up an appetite walking around the ancient ruins or if you‘re staying in this hotel, the restaurant‘s worth taking into account. We especially liked the room with the funky fireplace. The windows overlook the courtyard, which looks quite lovely in the warm season. The chef, who worked in Moscow, specializes in Mediterranean cuisine, which meshes well with the ingredients available in Crimea. There‘s tap beer, wine by the glass and the in-evitable hookah or cigars to finish off your meal properly. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PAGXW

Paris, cabaret-café F-2, Kapitanskaya 1, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 40 40 09. The place has nothing do with either cabaret or Paris. It‘s more of a typical post-Soviet place with eclectic interior, a guy singing covers of every song you‘ve ever heard on the radio, and a menu of favourites from various cuisines. The administrator, a grand dame with a fancy hat and impressive décolletage greeted us. She said in the winter it‘s a bit slow, but in the summer tourist groups come here for lunch and during the holidays the place is filled with people of a certain age who like old-style “dine and dance” places where a band plays favourites. Special show programmes take place from time to time, but live music can be heard every day staring at 8 p.m. There‘s a grill menu and a summer terrace. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PGBSW

where to eAtwhere to eAt

Piratskaya Kharchevnya F-2, 300-Letiya Rossiyskogo flota, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 50 278 41 16/(+380) 692 93 44 41, www.pirate-ship.net. A fun place to eat if you‘re strolling along the water in central Sevastopol. The summer terrace has a stunning view of the harbour and looks like the prow of a boat, there‘s a coffee place serving homemade desserts on the third floor, and the first floor‘s a tavern done up like a pirates‘ den. On weekdays office workers come here for the pre fixe lunches, on Fridays and Saturdays the place turns into a dance hall, while on weekend days the tavern hosts kids‘ birthday parties. This place used to be based in Balaclava, the old fishing port for Sevastopol, and they still have their old connections, which means that the fish is irreproachable fresh. English menu available. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PLVS

Rybatskiy Stan F-2, Artbukhta 1, tel. (+380) 692 55 72 78, www.fisher-house.com.ua. Here‘s a place geared for tourists, where they‘ll feed you one of their dozens of salads or grilled meat or fish dishes, pour sweet Crimean dessert wine into you and make you sing karaoke to boot. The menu (English available) is looooong in that Slavic way and the place is over-decorated, but it is right on the water, the prices are reasonable and if you drink enough you can dare to take the karaoke mic - but beware of the serious penalties the house charges if somehow you destroy it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PA

Santorini F-4, Ushakova pl. 1, Yuzhnaya bay, tel. (+380) 50 360 61 00, www.santorini-tavern.com.ua. The blue and white design, the music and actual menu are all inspired by the Greek islands. Dolma, salads, and fish soup will fill you up, but the walnut cake is good enough to knock you for a loop. The place is a bit on the pricier side (Average check - 200Hr) and the portions aren‘t that big, but the great central location makes up for that. English menu and English speaking staff. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PABW

Sevastopol F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 90 60. The in-house restaurant of the eponymous hotel. The menu has been composed with care to satisfy the tastes of all types of guests, so there‘s everything from European classics to the house‘s own vareniki and kielbasa to the grilled Geor-gian classics so beloved by a post-Soviet clientele. The design is classic, without being too posh. And of course there‘s the balcony that surrounds the restaurant, probably the most graceful restaurant setting in the whole city. Prices are average and the wine list pretty good. There‘s also a special menu for kids. The smoking and non-smoking areas are separated. English menu. QOpen 24:00 - 24:00. PAGXTB6IW

Vabi Sabi F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 8, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 53 91 40. A Japanese restaurant in the same building as the Sevastopol hotel. There‘s minimalistic furniture in green and white, interesting desserts and teas (we par-ticularly enjoyed the unusual blackberry tea with lime and a green tea/mint version of tiramisu), noodles, teriyaki, and sushi, which was fresh but not particularly to our taste. The smoking and nonsmoking areas are separate. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGXW

Vanilnyi Blues D-4, Yeroshenka 2A, Karantinnaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 24 03 76. Geared towards a more demanding and upscale clientele, this place is really trying to get things right. The desserts are creative and elegant, the infused teas are great, the wine list is extensive and includes by-the-glass options, and the cuisine is mixed European (for real). The smoking area is separate. Kids are welcome. A place for ladies who lunch, Sevastopol-style. A good place to eat after visiting Khersones, since it‘s right in the area. Main course - 45-170Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAW

Varenichnaya Pobeda F-3, Nakhimov prosp. 10, Artbukhta, tel. (+380) 692 52 57 50. Apparently someone with nostalgia for the everyday life of the Soviet era lovingly decorated this place and composed its menu of classic Soviet dishes. He or she probably even installed the prodavshitsas (shop ladies) who look with suspicion at anyone who doesn‘t fit their old-school image of how people should look. After eating a portion of vareniki (15-35Hr) (Ukrainian dumplings), take with you one of the menus that resemble a Soviet newspaper, as a souvenir. QOpen 24hrs. PAGX

Vash Lavash B-5, Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii prosp. 38, Omega bay, tel. (+380) 692 46 14 22. This place featuring Crimean-Middle Eastern-Caucasian food is just few doors away from Morskoy hotel and stands in a busy spot, so it‘s no wonder they‘re packed. (In line with Muslim traditions they don‘t serve pork.) Ordering cer-tain of the meat dishes will get you a complimentary glass of Armenian brandy. We particularly enjoyed their lagman with homemade noodles, served by a handsome waiter. While the top floor has a café format, the bottom floor is a lounge zone, rendered in a relaxed eastern style. Average bill 100Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGX

where to eAt

Medical Spa-Centre B-3, Parkovaya 11, Aquamarine Resort, Strelets-kaya bay, tel. (+380) 692 53 94 97/(+380) 50 360 75 74, dm_spa@a.crimea.ua, www.spa-aquamarine.com.ua. 1,500 square meters of territory filled with all sorts of spa goodness, with everything operating on a European level. Forget the indoor and outdoor pools, the four saunas, the fitness hall and the beauty therapy facility, although they‘re all quite good. Aquamarine is gradually gaining fame as a medical healing place, employing a whole range of MDs who will inspect your medical record and assign you to one of their complex treatment programs: mud treatment, balneology, thalassotherapy, tractional extension of the spine, all sorts of inhalation treatment (including salt cave treatment), psychological help and a fountain of Morshynska mineral water. There‘s more, of course - for more details visit their webpage. The spa and hotel are separate entities, so it‘s possible to live elsewhere and use the spa, like the locals do. Hotel guests do, however, get discounts on spa treatments. Spa personnel either speak English or will call in translators. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Spa-Centres

sevastopol.inyourpocket.com

SevastopolLenina 33, tel. (+380) 692 44 30 49 (+380) 50 360 84 66, kp_tic@mail.ru.

SimferopolPryvokzalna sq. 1, tel. (+380) 66 628 84 88 sim-turservice@mail.ru.

Pryvokzalna sq. 1 (service centre) tel. (+380) 652 54 58 87 / (+380) 95 609 91 04.

Simferopol International Airport tel. (+380) 652 54 58 87 / (+380) 95 609 91 04.

KerchSverdlova 35, tel (+380) 6561 2 01 49 infokerch@mail.ru.

SudakDachne village, Mindalna 1, tel. (+380) 50 761 81 22 taraktash_info@ukr.net.

ChornomorskeKirova 48 tel. (+380) 6558 2 07 57/(+380) 50 160 01 71 tarhankut@ch.sf.ukrtel.net.

BakhchisarayPushkina 102, tel. (+380) 99 956 85 53 information_centre@ukr.net www.infocentre.crimea.ua/en.

YevpatoriaTuchina 1/2, tel. (+380) 6569 2 79 79, info-tic@meta.ua.

Zaozerne village, Druzhby alley 70а tel. (+380) 6569 9 00 20 zaozerkakp-otdix@yandex.ru.

ScholkineBus station area, tel. (+380) 6557 5 26 69 / (+380) 50 238 08 62, schelkinotur@mail.ru.

TOURIST INfORMATION cENTRES IN cRIMEA

Where to eatBalaklava 1go Maya pl., tel. (+380) 692 63 78 34, www.restoran-balaklava.com. Located on May 1st Square (Ploshchad‘ Pervogo Maya), Balaklava‘s central point, where all the taxis and buses stop. By summer, it‘s pleasant to sit here with a big glass of beer before exploring the waterfront. The open terrace might be a bit noisy, given that it‘s right on a transit hub. The interior here might be a bit on a heavy side, but skim through the menu, as you might find something to your taste - after all, they claim to have the best fish in town. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. AGBX

Egoist Nazukhina nab. 1, tel. (+380) 692 46 58 94, www.egoist.in.ua. Located in a graceful old house, this place is a little more upscale than its neighbours. The menu is long, but that just means the place is ready to satisfy everyone‘s taste. Our imagination was conquered by the “Genovese Tower” (rapana - a local mollusk - in a crust with caramel, walnuts, and paprica sauce. Or else go for something a little simpler: mixed salads, brie in a citrus crust, veal medallions, or steamed salmon in cream sauce. Thery have an English menu and the staff speaks some English too. QOpen 24hrs.

Izbushka Rybaka Nazukina nab. 33, tel. (+380) 692 45 50 49. This pleasant stopover on the waterfront is both right on the water and away from the crowd - you can‘t beat that. We came for the local fish and didn‘t regret it: the kefal (grey mullet) was prepared in the simplest way possible (pan-fried) and hit the spot. The great herbal tea and the list of little snacks to order along with vodka also made a good impression. The proprietors are looking out for you, too: The menu kindly warns you that you shouldn‘t drink milk with seafood. During the high season the place is packed, so reserve. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.

Kapral Nazukina nab. 11, tel. (+380) 692 45 51 11. Another café on the Balaklava waterfront. The interior is inspired by Tuscany, with a tile floor, and red terracotta palette, and feels rather cosy. On a cool rainy day this is a nice place to sit with a glass of local fortified wine over a dessert. Kapral is proud of its young chef, who channels her creativity into producing original desserts (poppy seed flourless cake) and main dishes (lamb served on a tartlet with herbs). Bring your Russian-speaking friend with you, as there‘s little English among the personnel here as is typical around Crimea, a 5-10% tip is added to your bill. QOpen 24hrs.

Prince Nazukhina nab. 1A, tel. (+380) 692 94 05 10/(+380) 50 424 70 76, prince.crimea.ua. This place isn‘t just on the waterfront - it‘s literally on the water. Just look for the restaurant that resembles a ship. On a foggy night the place looms over your head like the Flying Dutchman finally come to shore - there was neither a light on, nor was a living soul inside. But we promised ourselves that we‘d come back and explore it - in addition to restless souls, we hope to find decent glass of beer and some seafood salad to go with it. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.

Tatianin Mys Nazukina nab. 8, tel. (+380) 67 909 13 97. This restaurant has its own waterfront terrace, maybe the best one in town. The menu is typical of local restaurants, featuring meats, local fish, salads. The interior is nothing to write home about, and the music tends towards the Russian pop that‘s ubiquitous in Crimea. But as they say, go where the locals go, and Tatianin Mys is packed with locals who find the place a good bargain. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00.

Zolotoy Bereg Nazukina nab. 15, tel. (+380) 692 63 72 91. The banner in front of Zolotoy Bereg calls it a pizzeria, but we wouldn‘t go here for the pizza. Instead, try what they do best: grey mullet baked with vegetables, flounder with potatoes and tomatoes in a spicy sauce, or veal with dried apricots and prunes in a sour-sweet sauce. Or else have one of the big omelets and a salad (be sure to specify your dressing).The portions are big and the prices are decent. The place is very post-Soviet, from staff to music, so don‘t expect fluent English. At best you‘ll be handed an English menu. QOpen 24hrs (summer season). PB

What to seeChembalo Fortress The ruins of this old Genoese fortress are the first thing that catches your eyes when entering the city. The building of the fortress began in 1357 and was not finished until the 15th century. Fortifications occupy most of the Krepostnaya mount, which rises on the left bank of the Balaklava Bay. Walls surround the mount on three sides, resting against the steep cliffs. At the top there is the tallest tower. Another tower stands at the bottom of a mount side near the town’s beach.

Submarine Repair Plant Mramornaya 1, tel. (+380) 692 63 75 90. This plant was built at the end of the 1950’s for submarine repairs and as a com-mand post of the Black Sea Fleet. This adit (approach, or as it is widely known in Russian - shtolnya) is a 680-meter semi-circle, carved right into the Tavros mount. From one end of the half-ring a submarine entered, then was placed in dry dock, repaired, and exited at the other end directly into the open sea. The plant is underground and was built in a way to withstand a direct hit by an atomic bomb five times more powerful than the one dropped on Hiroshima. In the case of a nuclear attack, the complex was to serve as a shelter for about three thousand people. In 1994 it was taken out of service and since 2003 has been the Navy Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Close Mon. During the winter season open on weekends.

© In Your Pocket, Ukraine, 2012

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Balaklava Bay is the jewel of the south-west coast of Crimea. It is amazingly beautiful and completely invisible from the sea. In Ancient Greek times the bay was called Sumpon-Limne; the bay of signs, symbols, and omens. No one knows exactly how long the native Tauri had lived here before the Greeks came to Chersonesos, but it has been archeologically proven that they lived on the southern coast of the Crimea as early as the 1st millennium BC. Balaklava therefore has at least 3000 years of history, making it one of the oldest cities in Ukraine.In the second and third centuries AD a Roman detachment was stationed here. Later it became a Greek settlement, which it remained until the14th century, when the Genoese came here and built the powerful Chembalo fortress on the bay’s shores. At the end of the 15th century the fortress was seized by Turks and renamed Balyk-Yuve, from which the modern name has its origins. During the Crimean War, British ships were anchored in Balaklava Bay.In 1873 Balaklava became a district of Sevastopol and became a popular holiday resort. Yet from the 1960s until the late 1990s, Balaklava disappeared from all maps and tourist guides: a division of Soviet submarines was stationed here. A command centre was created in the rock along with fuel storage dumps, torpedoes and nuclear weapons, and a secret underground tunnel-plant for submarine repair.Today, Balaklava is a tiny satellite of Sevastopol with a beautiful little bay, but not remains undeveloped. There’s a small waterfront packed with boats and cafés. Hotels are concentrated on the same stretch, with some spill over to adjoining streets. The rest of the town is residential and still largely industrial: your trip to Balaclava will most likely unfold to the soundtrack of the limestone production facility on one of the surrounding hills.

Getting thereTo get to Balaklava from Sevastopol you must first get to the so-called ‘5th kilo-meter’. Most buses to the ‘5th kilometer’ leave from Ushakova pl. Just look for ‘5 км’ sight on the windscreen. From the city centre take buses #12 or 120. From the ‘5th kilometer’ take a bus #9, which will get you to Balaklava in about 20 minutes.

Where to stayBalaklava Hostel Drapushko 18, tel. (+380) 692 57 22 87. This hostel located 15 minutes away offers everything a low-maintenance backpacker needs: clean beds, a spartan interior, showers and bathrooms. Hot water runs according to a schedule and the café premises are minimalistic. Extras include parking, an information desk, barbeque spots, a room for boxing and gymnastics and space in which to shoot hoops or play a little volleyball. Q18 rooms (doubles 55Hr, triples 55Hr, quads 50Hr, 5-bed dorm 45Hr, 6-bed dorm 45Hr). FLN

Dakkar Resort Kalicha 13, tel. (+380) 692 63 77 63, dakkar-resort.net. Built in 2006, this 3-star hotel has a distinct business orientation: from the restrained interiors of the rooms equipped with all the necessities (TV, AC, fridge), to the conference hall, to the bar with its pretty good selection of spirits and cuban cigars. The hotel has an autonomous water supply and heating system, which can come in handy given Crimea‘s infrastructural realities. The hotel‘s Sahara restaurant will serve you a continental breakfast and after that the smiling girls at the reception desk might make you an offer you won‘t be able to resist: fishing, sunbathing on the beach, or a guided visit to Crimean War sites are all available. Non-smokers should emphasize they want a non-smoking room when booking. No sea views here, but the rear windows overlook the backyard and the steep hill the hotel is built along. Q22 rooms (4 Standard 560 - 720Hr, 4 Business 500 - 600Hr, 10 Junior suite 730 - 1020Hr, 4 Suite 950 - 1550Hr). PHALBKW hhh

Dionis Hotel Krestovskogo 87A, tel. (+380) 692 63 03 25, hotel@dionis-crimea.ru, dionis-crimea.ru. This isn‘t just a hotel, it‘s a whole complex dedicated to making you happy: there are clean, spacious and clean rooms (breakfast in the hotel‘s café is included), pleasant personnel (though not much English is spoken), an outdoor pool and Jacuzzi, a sauna and billiards and a children‘s playground. The staff will provide you with transfer, entertainment and all the other services you might require if you‘re coming here with your family or friends. Positive responses from guests have resulted in a 3-star certificate. The hotel is located 20 minutes inland by foot from the main square, so come by car, or else the personnel will call you a taxi. Rooms are fully equipped and non-smoking. Q17 rooms (15 Junior suite 340 - 1000Hr, 1 Suite 780 - 1100Hr, 1 Apartment 1300 - 1500Hr). PALGDW hhh

KupriNN Guest House Kuprina 5, tel. (+380) 50 960 91 00/(+380) 6292 63 73 68, booking@kuprinn.com, www.kuprinn.com/en. Allegedly the best stay in town, on a quiet residential street near the waterfront. Built two years ago the family-run KuprInn (named after the classic Russian writer Kuprin who used to come and stay on this street) is the real deal. The owners are justifiably proud of the stunning views of the bay from the balconies, their extensive film collec-tion and their tiny, yet elegant flower garden. Guests can either stay in the main building or in separate premises with kitchens, fireplaces and private terraces. (We liked the regular rooms better.) Q50 rooms (Junior suite 600 - 850Hr, Suite 650 - 1000Hr, Apartment 800 - 1100Hr). ALW

Listrigon 7go Noyabrya 5D, tel. +38 (0692) 46-31-91, listrigon@yandex.ru, www.listrigon.com. It‘s locally believed that the lands of the evil ogres, the Listrigons, that Odysseus visited were actually in Balaklava. The legend inspired the name of this motel. Like lots of legendary places, this one is hard to get to: it‘s built atop a steep hill, so bring your car. Premises are inexpensive and unpre-tentious, and the place has a café and a breathtaking view of the bay and is a short walk away from the waterfront. As for entertainment, reception maintains a thick book of local attractions - and it‘s all just a phone call away. All but Class C premises have TV, AC and fridges. Class A premises are two-room accommoda-tions in individual houses. Q26 rooms (singles 65 - 80Hr, doubles 100 - 480Hr, triples 120 - 180Hr, quads 120 - 180Hr). PN

Yacht ClubsGolden Symbol Nazukhina nab. 1A, tel. (+380) 692 45 53 34/(+380) 692 63 73 59, balaklava@goldensymbol.com, www.goldensymbol.com. Right at the entrance to the waterfront, on the right, sits this yacht club: look for the powerboats of various price and ego levels. The top floor of the club admin-istration building offers seven accommodations. The smaller and simpler ones have shared bathrooms; the more upscale options have individual bathrooms, nice furniture, more space and views of the harbor. Prices stay the same all year round. According to the club administrator the better rooms are particularly be-loved by the Russian pop stars that come to Balaclava to perform. Luxury suites will be ready by mid-spring 2012. A separate new building on the waterfront has spacious separate apartments furbished to a T with panoramic views of the bay and an elevator. Prices are not set yet -for details, please call the yacht club administration desk. Q PAW

Mria Yacht Club Mramornaya 17, tel. (+380) 692 93 84 25, book_mriya@mail.ru, www.club-mriya.com. This yacht club is on the opposite side of Bala-clava‘s bay, so you‘ll want to have the car or a boat when staying there or else plan on perfecting your crawl across the bay - walking between this place and the main waterfront is a hike. The upside of staying here is the night panorama that it offers of Balaclava, its proximity to the museum (a former submarine repair plant) and the quiet, which might be hard to find elsewhere in town. The clean rooms are regularly sized and are equipped with TV, AC and a fridge. Smokers might prefer the suites: the ashtrays are on the balconies, which offer bay views. The regular rooms are non-smoking. Mria Yacht Club‘s restaurant, Drake‘s Tav-ern, offers a regular local menu. But Croatian guest-chef Ivica Orincica is also an advocate of a healthy lifestyle, of macrobiotics and of old Slavic cuisine, and he‘s created a special menu for the restaurant, based on local fish and other fresh produce. Give it a try. Drake‘s Tavern is open from 9 a.m. to 12 a.m. throughout the year. Q16 rooms (12 Standard 300 - 880Hr, 4 Suite 600 - 1100Hr). PLNKD

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