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© Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved. - Unit GH12 - Session 4.

Session 4 GH12Cutting techniques

Trainer requirements to teach this session

For this session you will need the following:

• Handout GH12.4.1• Slide GH12.4.1• Activity GH12.4.1• Handout GH12.4.2 (2 pages)• Handout GH12.4.5• Handout GH12.4.6 (2 pages)• Handout GH12.4.7 (2 pages)• Handout GH12.4.9• Slide GH12.4.9• Hairdressing block and holder,

sectioning clips, comb• A selection of style plates with haircuts

suitable for a variety of facial shapes in GH12 Step by Steps

• Learner check for Session 4.

Trainer notes

The session will cover:

4.1 How the factors in the range can affect the way hair is cut

4.2 Why it is important to check the hair before and after shampooing prior to cutting

4.3 The importance of consulting with the client throughout the cutting process

4.4 The importance of applying the correct degree of tension to the hair when cutting

4.5 How and when to use club cutting, freehand and scissor over comb cutting techniques

4.6 The reasons for establishing and following guidelines

4.7 How to create and follow a guideline for a one length, uniform layer, short graduation and long graduation looks

4.8 The importance of cross checking the cut

Session 4 GH12

- Unit GH12 - Session 4. © Copyright Habia 2009 - All rights reserved.

4.9 The importance of considering weight distribution and working with the natural fall of the hair

4.10 How the angle at which the hair is held will affect the weight distribution, balance and degree of the graduated cut

4.11 How to create the looks in the range

Aftercare advice and communication

4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the recommended time interval between cuts.

4.13 How to give effective advice and recommendations to clients




Take the learners through the items in the range and explain how each affect the way the hair is cut. (Or remind them if this area of learning was covered in GH12.3.1):

• Hair density – hair may be too sparse or too abundant

• Hair texture – hair may be too coarse or too fine for the required style

• Hair growth patterns – may force them to change the choice of haircut or choice of tools

• Facial and head shape – the haircut should be chosen to flatter the shape of the face and head

• Hair growth patterns – the growth patterns may restrict the choice of hair style or cut

• Hair elasticity – they will have to adjust the degree of tension applied according to:

• The elasticity – hair will stretch more when the hair is wet, therefore, care must be taken with the amount of tension that is being used when the hair is cut.

Session 4 GH12


Face Shape

Ref: Handout GH12.4.1 & Slide GH12.4.1

Show the slide and describe the main facial shapes

Ref: Activity GH12.4.1Selection of style plates of haircuts suitable

for a variety of facial shapes.

Distribute style plates of women's haircuts.

Use the facial shapes on Handout GH12.4.1 as a basis for discussion with learners. Ask them to look at the style plates and decide which haircut is most appropriate for each of the facial shapes.



Ref: Handout GH12.4.2

Explain that the hair may have different characteristics that are only apparent when the hair is wet or dry.

Explain to learners that they should check for the following before the hair is shampooed:

All these must be checked on dry hair:

• hair texture• hair density• hair type• hair growth patterns• signs of disease or disorder• signs of infection or infestation• piercings

In addition, they must carry out a full consultation with the client to establish their requirements before the hair is shampooed.


Session 4 GH12Following the shampoo, the following should be checked

• natural partings• elasticity• natural movement in the hair

In addition, tell learners they must confirm the wishes of the client before they begin to cut the hair and continue with the consultation throughout the cutting service.

Client consultation during the cutting service

Explain to learners that it is important for the consultation that was started prior to when the cut began is continued throughout whole of the cutting service.

Tell learners that the consultation should continue for the following reasons:

• The client may be worried about the amount of hair they are cutting

• The client may change their minds about their original request part way through the cut

In addition, explain that they will have the opportunity to:

• explain what they are doing and what they are going to do next

• confirm that the length and shape of the haircut are meeting with client requirements

• adapt and change the cut if necessary


Remind learners of the elasticity properties of the hair– explain that this means that it can stretch and return to its normal length. Emphasise that hair stretches more when wet.

Session 4 GH12


Explain that, if they put too much tension on hair while they are cutting it, it will stretch. Remind them that this means that, when it goes back to its normal length it may be too short.

Ask the learners which basic cutting techniques will involve placing more tension on the hair and which will involve less tension.

Discuss the learners responses making reference to the following:

• Club cutting - involves sectioning, combing and holding the hair in position to cut. Therefore a degree of tension is applied to the hair. It is important to avoid over-tensioning the hair as this will produce inaccurate results in the finished haircut.

• Freehand cutting - the hair is combed into position but not held, therefore the hair is not under any tension when it is cut.

• Scissors over comb cutting - the hair is held in the teeth of the comb as it is cut, this involves minimal tension.

Stress the importance of avoiding over-tensioning the hair during cutting. Hair elasticity allows the hair to stretch when tension is placed on it, particularly when it is wet. When dry, the hair will return to its original length, which may be shorter than the client requires.

4.5 When and how to use club cutting, freehand and scissor over comb cutting techniques

State that learners must know when to use a specific technique as well as know how to use it.

Explain that, if they can do this, they will be more likely to achieve the required look.


Session 4 GH12Ref: Handout GH12.4.5

Hairdressing Block and Holder Sectioning Clips and Comb

Go over the different cutting techniques, explaining how to use them:

• club cutting

Explain that the hair is combed smoothly from the roots to the ends of the hair. It is held securely between the fingers or in the comb at the correct angle to achieve the desired effect and cut it straight across.

• freehand

Explain that learners must comb the hair smooth and into position then cut it without holding or supporting it with either their hand or their comb.

• scissors over comb

State that the hair is lifted and held in the comb by combing the hair in an upward motion. The hair that protrudes through the comb is cut, holding the scissors above the comb. Tell learners to use the coarse teeth of the comb when cutting the longer hair and the fine teeth for holding the short hair around the ears and in the nape.

Now explain when to use different techniques:

• club cutting – to reduce the length of the hair without removing any of the bulk

• freehand – when tension is to be avoided, eg, around a growth pattern or at the outside line of the haircut if the hair is curly

• scissors over comb – explain that this technique is used to shorten hair and to achieve graduation in a haircut

Session 4 GH12





Tell learners that there are three main reasons for establishing and following guidelines:

• to decide on the overall finished length and shape of the cut

• to ensure methodical progression through the cut• to help to achieve accuracy of the cut

Explain that it is very important to determine the different lengths of the haircut at different parts of the head and that this is done by creating a guideline or, sometimes, more than one guideline.

Say that a guideline can run:

• horizontally (in the nape, from ear to ear round the back of the head or across the crown)

• vertically (from the centre front hairline to the centre back nape).

Emphasise that it doesn’t matter where the guideline is placed so long as it is accurate and in accordance with the style requirements. Stress that, if more than one guideline is used, the cut should connect with each to create an even result.

Suggestion Use a block that has been previously cut, or cut one as a demonstration to show the learners how to progress from one area of the head to another. Use the first guideline to show where to cut the next section and how this part then becomes the guideline for the next section.


Session 4 GH12Emphasise the importance of following any graduation set by the guideline and say that they must work their way over the head in a structured, methodical way to ensure an accurate cut.

Suggestion Using the same block, show learners how to cross-check a cut – if they used horizontal sections for cutting they should use vertical sections for checking. Conversely, if they used vertical sections for cutting then they should use horizontal sections for the cross-check.

Explain that this is where the process gets its name – they must work across the original sectioning method. By cross-checking they can ensure accuracy of the cut.

Show basic methods of balancing the cut and how to use the features of the head and face to measure the different areas of the cut. Tell learners to be aware that some features may not be in perfect alignment – one ear may be very slightly higher than the other.

Emphasise the need to cross-check and balance every cut.

Stress that no hairdresser is so good that s/he doesn’t need to check his own work.


It is recognised that there are many different methods for achieving the same result in cutting. What follows are suggested routines.

Your own house style cutting routines can be substituted if desired.

Session 4 GH12



Uniform layerExplain to learners how to hold the hair at 90° to the scalp with the fingers parallel to the scalp. Say that the hair is cut straight across to the length required.

Show them how to use this section as a guide for all subsequent sections, holding these at 90° in the same way as before. Explain that the hair is cut to the same length all over.

Suggestion Demonstrate how to do this.

GraduationExplain that a graduation may be:

• a short graduation – shorter in the nape, longer towards the crown

• a long graduation – longer in the nape, getting shorter towards the crown

Graduation using vertical sectionsExplain to learners (and demonstrate on a block) how to take a narrow section of hair at the place where the hair is to be graduated. Then state how the fingers should be positioned in relation to the scalp at the angle of graduation that they want. The hair is then cut to the chosen length.

Tell them to continue taking small sections in a straight line through the head, increasing or decreasing the lengths until they reach the centre back hairline.



Session 4 GH12Graduation using horizontal sectionExplain to learners and demonstrate how to take a narrow section of hair across the nape or at the crown and hold it at the correct angle to achieve the required graduation. Then state that the hair is cut to the chosen length.

Explain that their fingers or the comb should be parallel to the scalp. Show them how to do this. Tell them to take small sections working up or down the head depending on where they placed the guideline, increasing/decreasing the lengths as they go. Emphasise that they must use the sections previously cut as guidelines for each new section.


Long graduated looksExplain to learners that a long graduated cut is one in which the inside lengths of the hair cut are shorter than the outside lengths.

A guide line for the shortest length of the haircut should be made first. This is usually at the top of the head. A narrow section, running vertically from the front hair line to just before the crown is made. The hair is held at a right angle to the scalp and cut parallel to the scalp to the desired length.

This guideline can then be used for all subsequent sections. Each new section is combed to meet the first section, held to meet the same right angle of the first section and cut to the length of the first section.

Explain, that as each section of hair comes from an area lower down the head, the length will naturally increase, therefore a long graduated cut is achieved.


Session 4 GH12


One length cutThe length of the outline shape is the guideline for a one length cut. The hair is sectioned and the first section is cut by holding the hair as close as possible to the head, neck or body (depending on the length of the cut). All other subsequent sections are cut to this overall length.



4.10 The angle at which the hair is held will affect the weight distribution, balance and degree of the graduated cut


Explain to learners that they must take into consideration the weight distribution of the hair throughout the head as well as the way the hair naturally falls. Tell them that, if they ignore these factors, they will not achieve the result they intend.

Weight distributionState that the hair may be bulky around the nape area or behind the ears, it may be sparse on top or at the crown. Explain that a good hairdresser will check this during consultation and design the haircut to suit the weight distribution.

Natural fall of the hairExplain that this is sometimes known as the natural lie of the hair. It means the way the hair lies or falls on the head.

Tell the learners to look carefully at the natural fall of the hair – does it stick out from the scalp, is it pushed in a specific direction by a growth pattern, does it lie close to the scalp?


Session 4 GH12Explain to the learners that all of these will influence the choice of look to give the client as well as the choice of technique to use to achieve the required result.Emphasise to learners that they must always consider the angle at which they hold the hair for cutting.

Tell them that, if they hold the hair at less or more than 90° to the scalp, then the hair will be graduated.

Ref: Slide GH12.4.9

Show the slide and go over the angles shown to achieve the degree of graduation as specified.


Ref: Step by steps

Use the handouts to reiterate the cutting principles:how the factors within the range affect the haircut• the importance of applying the correct degree of

tension • how and why to use the cutting techniques to

achieve the looks in the range• how to create and follow a guideline to achieve the

looks within the range• how the angle at which the hair is held will affect the

weight distribution, balance and degree of graduation of the cut

• the importance of: • working with the natural fall of the hair • crosschecking the balance and accuracy of cut.


4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the recommended time interval between cuts


Session 4 GH12


Remind the learners that hair grows at around 1.25cm (1/2inch) a month, so after six to eight weeks the haircut will start to look ‘grown out’. Say that if the hair is naturally thick and coarse, after six to eight week the original haircut will lose its shape.Tell the learners that hairdressers will advise a client to return every six to eight weeks by outlining the benefits of having regular haircuts:

• maintains the hairstyle • maintains the manageability of the hairstyle at home• maintains the condition of the hair.

Tell the learners that a hairdresser will explain to their clients how to create the chosen look by demonstrating the styling techniques and products they are using during the service. Say this is useful to the client to help them recreate the hairstyle at home.

Now complete the learner check for session 4 to check learners understanding.


Session 4 GH12Cut hair using basic techniquesLearner Check

Session 4

1. Give the name of four basic face shapes.

2. State why you must consider the elasticity of hair when carrying out a cut.

3. State the effects of club cutting.

4. State how to carry out freehand cutting.

5. State the importance of crosschecking the haircut.

6. State the shape of a haircut where the hair is held 90o to the scalp and cut to the same length all over the head.

7. State the shape of haircut where the hair is shorter on the perimeter and longer on the inside lengths.

8. Explain the ‘natural fall’ of hair.

Se

1. Round, oval, oblong, rectangular, triangular, square, heart shaped.

2. Hair will stretch more when it is wet, care must be taken to ensure that the hair is not shorter than the client requested.

3. A blunt edge creates bulk.

4. The hair is cut without being held with either fingers or comb.

5. To ensure that all sections blend.

6. Uniform layer.

7. Graduation.

8. The direction the hair grows or lies on the head.

Session 4 GH12




Trainer Summary


• hair density – hair may be too sparse or too abundant

• hair texture – hair may be too coarse or too fine for the required style

• hair growth patterns – may force them to change the choice of haircut or choice of tools

• Facial and head shape – the haircut should be chosen to flatter the shape of the face and head

• Hair growth patterns – the growth patterns may restrict the choice of hair style or cut

• hair elasticity – they will have to adjust the degree of tension applied according to:

• the elasticity – hair will stretch more when the hair is wet, therefore, care must be taken with the amount of tension that is being used when the hair is cut.



Remind learners that all these must be checked on dry hair:• hair texture• hair density• hair type• hair growth patterns• signs of disease or disorder• signs of infection or infestation• piercings

Following the shampoo, the following should be checked• natural partings• elasticity• natural movement in the hair

Session 4 GH12


Remind learners that the consultation should continue for the following reasons:

• Accurately establishing the client’s requirements• Providing accurate information to the client • Checking the progress of the cut to meet client

requirements• Applying tension according to the hair’s elasticity


Remind learners about the properties of elasticity of the hair and to ensure that the hair is not cut too short.

4.5 How and when to use club cutting, freehand and scissor over comb cutting techniques

Remind learners how and when to use the listed techniques.



• Deciding on the length and shape of the cut• To help the methodical progression of the cut• To help achieve accuracy of the cut• Using horizontal and vertical sections to cross-

check the cut


Remind learners of the demonstration that was carried out for creating and following guidelines.



Session 4 GH124.10 How the angle at which the hair is held will

affect the weight distribution, balance and degree of the graduated cut

• Weight distribution• Natural fall of the hair• Degrees of graduation


Remind learners of the cutting principles.


4.12 The importance of regular cuts and the recommended time interval between cuts


Remind learners that hairdressers will advise a client to return every six to eight weeks by outlining the benefits of having regular haircuts.

Remind learners that hairdressers make a point of giving effective advice and recommendations as they work.

Session 4 GH12


Cutting techniques

Key/Core Skills Opportunities

There will be an opportunity to promote discussion when covering:

• GH12.4.1 The most suitable style plates for different head/face shapes

session 4 gh12 - its-ltd.net · distribution and working with the natural fall of the hair 4.10 how...

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