second-hand markets in rwanda
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Discovering treasures and troubles at the Kimironko clothing market in Kigali, RwandaTRANSCRIPT
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18582008www.timescolonist.com | Xxxxxxday, Xxxxxxxxx 00, 2008 Tuesday, March 4, 2008 Victoria, British Columbia High 9. Details, D4
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New fleet of boats for UVic Sailing Club
Arel English and Erica Virtue work yesterday on one of six sailboats purchased by the University of Victoria Sailing Club and docked at the UVic Vikes Recreation Sailing Compound in Cadboro/Gyro Park. The club bought the sailboats and a safety boat last month from the University of Washington. Club members have been raising money for the purchase since 2006. With their new fleet, they will hold the inaugural Western Canada Cup, to be hosted in conjunction with the Royal Victoria Yacht Club. The regatta will take place May 10-11 in Cadboro Bay.
DARREN STONE, TIMES COLONIST
Homeless camping case makes it to courtJudge must decide if constitutional challenge to city bylaw will proceedJEFF BELL Times Colonist Can a group of homeless activists argue they have a constitutional right to sleep on the streets? That was the question facing a B.C. Supreme Court judge as a legal challenge to the City of Victorias anti-camping bylaw finally made it to court yesterday. Its been more than two years since the challenge was launched after a number of people were arrested in October 2005 for erecting tents in Cridge Park, at the corner of Blanshard and Belleville streets. Last September, the case briefly made it to court when the city lost its bid to dismiss the challenge, but it won an adjournment to allow the Ministry of Attorney General to join the case. Yesterday, Justice Victoria Gray heard arguments from the city, the province and the homeless as part of a two-day hearing on the ministrys application to deny the constitutional challenge. Ministry lawyer Veronica Jackson argued that the case doesnt have a reasonable chance of success on constitutional grounds, pointing out that the bylaw is meant to ensure that parks and other areas are available for all members of the public to enjoy. The bylaw has general applications that apply to everybody, she said. She added that the case would ultimately focus on what society should do in terms of funding and programs for the homeless, instead of just the content of the bylaw. Lawyer Guy McDannold, acting for the city, also argued that people arent banned from sleeping outdoors. He said an amendment to the bylaw in August to omit the word loitering effectively removes the provision against sleeping in public places. But there are rules against temporary abodes such as tents, large tarpaulins, boxes and other items, as well as the blocking of sidewalks or streets, McDannold said. Catherine Boies Parker, one of two lawyers representing the homeless in the case, countered that the bylaw has a disproportionate impact on the homeless and demeans their dignity. Her case claims that the bylaw even with the amendment from August interferes with homeless peoples security of person, a right guaranteed under the Charter of Rights and Freedoms. Our argument is that if you have no place to go, you have a right to sleep in a public space with some shelter from the elements. She said constitutional arguments are key to the case she is putting together with colleague Irene Faulkner. Arguments in the case continue today in court. At issue for the judge is whether the homeless activists case has merit as a constitutional challenge she will not cast judgment on the bylaw, only on whether the challenge can proceed. Yesterdays proceedings attracted a handful of homeless people, including David Johnston. A baker by trade but homeless by conviction, Johnston has been arrested repeatedly, and even jailed, for his refusal to stop camping on public parkland, particularly the grounds of St. Anns Academy. His actions were the impetus for the group that camped at Cridge Park. [email protected]
Old clothes get new life in Third World BlackBerrys blossomB.C. LEGISLATURE
Castoffs from developed nations provide cheap clothing for Africans. But charity has a downside: African manufacturers cant compete, TC reporter Sarah Petrescu writes from Kigali, Rwanda.
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tacks of polo shirts, Dockers pants and enough Gap castoffs to start a store stuff the stalls of the Kimironko Market on the outskirts of Kigali. Lacoste. Nike. Sean John, a vendor calls out to no one in particular. These are some of the only English words he knows. Its a common scene throughout sub-Saharan Africa, the worlds largest destination for used clothing most of which goes to brokers to be sold in markets and street stalls. In Rwanda, the poorest spend more than half their clothing budgets on used items from the West, according to a recent Oxfam study. The richest spend about 20 per cent. Across all socio-economic groups, there is a major shift away from traditional dress to western fashions. What started as charitable handouts to clothe the desperately poor in the 1960s has turned into a billion-dollar-ayear industry. We call the clothes Viety because the Americans gave to charity after the Vietnam War,
says Thierry Shakya, 27, a fabric vendor at the market. Its shameful that people donate these things [and] then we try to sell them. I guess everybody needs to make some money. It works like this: People in rich countries, such as the U.S., Germany, Canada and Belgium, donate used clothing to charitable groups. From there, it is sold to textile recycling plants, sorted, graded and put into 45- to 80kilogram bales. Ones for Africa are generally sold for about $1.10 to $1.45 per kilogram. They then go to a developing-country importer, who sells them to a local trader. The biggest beneficiaries are the western charities, since they collect the clothing for free, and then sell them. Everyone else along the chain must pay for the clothing, says Pietra Rivoli, author of The Travels of a T-shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power and Politics of World Trade. Mike Valente, a University of Victoria business professor who studies globalization and sustainability, says there is
some benefit to Africans buying the cheap clothes. Of course, those citizens that lack the basic needs to survive (while living on less than $2 a day) would likely benefit from purchasing apparel for such a low price, he says. However, the cheap secondhand clothes sell for a fraction of the cost of locally made clothing. And because of that, as well as lower trade barriers, African textile and clothing industries have been all but destroyed, Valente says. They end up being cheap labour making clothes for the West similar to China but cant produce for their own countries, he says. In the mid-90s, 41 textile and clothing industries existed in the West African Economic and Monetary Union. By 2004, there were six. Oxfam says 80,000 jobs have been lost in the domestic textile industry in the past 10 years, citing an influx of cheap used and Asian clothing as a major contributing cause. [email protected]
despite house rulesLINDSAY KINES Times Colonist Now that the Victoria Flower Count is officially over, its on with another great capital city tradition the annual BlackBerry Festival. We refer, of course, to that special time of year when reporters keep a running tally of MLAs breaking the legislatures rules and using their hand-held e-mail devices during question period. Normally, Speaker Bill Barisoff tries to keep track of the rule-breakers, but he has a less-than-strategic post, seated at the end of the chamber. Not so the press gallery, which peers down from above and yesterday observed five government MLAs Premier Gordon Campbell among them checking their BlackBerrys during QP. To be fair, Solicitor General John Les just gave his a quick peek, as opposed to, say, backbencher Val Roddick, who appeared mesmerized by hers for much of the 30-minute session. The other offenders? Liberal backbenchers Dave Hayer and Bill Bennett. The latter youd think would steer clear of e-mails altogether after getting bumped from cabinet last year for flaming a
> TC reporter Sarah Petrescu was in Africa as part of the Seeing the World through New Eyes fellowship for young journalists supported by the Jack Webster Foundation and CIDA. Find out what else she discovered at African second-hand clothing markets, on page C1.
The Kimironko Market on the outskirts of Kigali is where locals go to buy fresh fruit, meat and Viety their word for used clothing from the western world. Clothing donated to charities in Canada and other developed countries is sold by the kilogram for resale in markets such as this.
SARAH PETRESCU, TIMES COLONIST
constituent with a profanitylaced message. None of the BlackBerry Five was involved in answering questions yesterday. The rule exists largely to prevent political staff outside the house from feeding answers to ministers or questions to Opposition members stuck inside. But Barisoff later confirmed that nobody should be using the devices during QP. In 2005, he reprimanded Environment Minister Barry Penner and Forests Minister Rich Coleman after the NDP spotted them using a BlackBerry. NDP house leader Mike Farnworth said yesterday that its time for a refresher. Its clearly a violation of the rules of this chamber and the Speaker needs to start enforcing it, he said. In essence, the government cabinet is cheating. But Bennett is no longer in cabinet and therefore not called upon during question period. If he was using his BlackBerry yesterday and he didnt recall doing so it would only have been to get some work done during the partisan theatrics, he said. Honestly, sometimes it gets a little tedious. [email protected]
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How do I keep feet out of mouth?Dear Rhona: Over the past year, Ive been on the receiving end of an accidental pregnancy announcement. Three times I was informed by either the girl or her boyfriend. I have no idea why this has happened to me so many times. And I never know how to react. Saying congratulations isnt the right thing to say given those circumstances but what else can I say? Wants to Be Polite Dear WTBP: I guess its best to avoid responses such as Can you spell birth control? and So what do you think of those new hybrid cars? Sometimes the best thing to say is nothing. If you pause instead of filling in the dead air, the news announcer will inevitably blurt out either, Hey, this could be an exciting turn of events or I dont know what we are going to do now. If you really feel the pressing need to say something intelligent, go with How do you feel about this news? Is this a good thing? That puts the onus on the person with the new circumstances to outline the direction of the next few sentences in the conversation. And of course theres the simple wow! which is fairly noncommittal and leaves open the ability to shift in either direction depending on whether the news flash is positive or not. Dear Rhona: Im in love with this guy and he says that he isnt the type to get involved because he isnt good with romantic relationships. I tried to tell him that you dont date someone because you think its going to last forever you date someone because at this time in life you are attracted to them. But he wont listen. I really like him and think we are both missing out on a great opportunity. He isnt involved with anyone, so whats the big deal? How do I get him to change his mind? Tiffany Dear Tiffany: What are you trying to do? Wear him down till he signs up for your brand of logic? Prove that he is wrong by enticing him into your sphere of influence long enough to blitz him with your magic? Perhaps he isnt as smitten with you as you are with him and hes merely attempting to let you down in a way that isnt embarrassing for you. It is possible that despite your lovely personality and winning smile he simply isnt attracted to you. Or maybe he doesnt want to play with a female who is so forthright about being a casual player. I suggest you gather yourself together and plan a foray in another direction. You cant make someone fall in love with you. You cant beg or threaten. A relationship requires two votes and you only have one. Visit rhona.com to send your questions or comments.
The Kimironko market on the fringes of Kigali is the place where locals go to buy fresh fruit, meat and Viety used clothing from Canada and the U.S.
SARAH PETRESCU, TIMES COLONIST
The paradox of Kimironko marketSARAH PETRESCU Ready to Wear
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KIGALI, Rwanda
Sarah models the new 113 Jacket ($195) and a silk print ascot ($55) from Smoking Lily on Johnson Street. [email protected]
Smoking Lilys fundraiserI thought lining up at 8 a.m. on a chilly Saturday for Smoking Lilys annual garage sale at 10 a.m. was a shoo-in for first grabs at all the sweet deals. Silly me. The queue was 40 deep when I arrived. The annual sale by Victorias hottest independent design house is legendary for the major mark-downs and serious scrapfests over $10 skirts, $5 tops and purses as soon the doors open. More than 230 people attended this year, raising $8,000 for Theatre SKAM, the Mustard Seed and The Land Conservancy. Get on the mailing list for next year at www.smokinglily.com
Evoke at ElementFashion and dance will be highlighted in a Cirque du Soleil-inspired night at Element nightclub Sunday. Veronica Hull, a Sidney designer who specializes in PVC clothing and corsetry, created costumes for the event. Hull also designs for the popular Cheesecake Burlesque Revue. Adrien Castle of Zenith Dance Studio (pole-dance fitness, burlesque fit and booty camp) choreographs the performance, based on the elements: Earth, air, fire, water. The event is at 9 p.m. at Element (in the Strath-cona Hotel). Tickets are $20. For more information, visit: www.zenithstudio.ca We have two tickets to give away; e-mail [email protected] with your name and daytime phone number. Sarah Petrescu
he open-air Kimironko Market on the outskirts of Kigali is the last place I expect to see the designer-fashion and developing worlds collide. Endless narrow aisles overflow with Gap and Old Navy cast-offs, T-shirts, shoes, purses, kids clothes and even a good selection of dusty ballgowns. A Rwandan friend in Victoria was the first to let me in on the second-hand shopping in Africa. Anything you want, any style, from all the eras, youll find it at these markets, she said. And for cheap, cheap too. But when I find a pair of $200 Miss Sixty jeans for $6, I have to wonder: Whats the real cost of donated clothing sold in a country where people can barely afford to eat? Its a fascinating example of how actions even charitable ones can have unintended consequences. Since charities started bringing donated clothes to sub-Saharan Africa in the 1960s and 70s, the second-hand clothing market has boomed into a billion-dollar industry. Each country has a different name for the cast-offs. In Rwanda, it is Viety, a reference to U.S. philanthropy reaching overseas after the Vietnam War. In Zambia, they call it salaula which means to rummage and pick. In Zimbabwe, it is mupedzanhamo (where all problems end). And in Kenya and Tanzania, theyre called kafa ulaya (dead mans clothes) or mitumba (bundles). Western charities sell donated clothing to recyclers, who sort and sell packed bales to vintage boutiques at home and developing countries abroad. African brokers distribute the clothes to market and street vendors who hawk them for a range of prices. They used to be cheap so poor people could afford clothes, Manuel Miandica, 28, told me a week earlier as we passed rows of Nine West shoes and H&M clothes in Beira, Mozambique, East Africas largest port for secondhand clothes. Now they know whats trendy and jack up the prices. Menswear sells at a premium, as the bulk of donated clothing is womens and childrens. Hip hop lines like Sean John and FuBu are market gold, as are Tshirts from winning sports teams. Though it might seem the markets are full of the latter, Africa is a receptacle for discarded T-shirts of losers. Major-league sports teams print thousands of T-shirts and ball caps anticipating a winning season. Their leagues ban the losers swag on American soil and Ebay. Thus, the Cleveland Indians won last years World Series at least in Ghana they did. Not that many Africans mind. Most seem happy for any access to the fashions from North America that dominate television and billboard ads in even the most remote areas.
But theyd also like to see a homegrown fashion industry flourish. Policy-makers want to promote the transformation of fibre into finished products to stimulate employment and industry. Mali President Amadou Toumani Tour recently said that while Mali is the largest cotton producer in sub-Saharan Africa, it does not produce a single T-shirt. Thierry Shakya, 27, tends his mothers African fabric stall at the Kimironko market a few times a week. The bright fabrics patterned with everything from gazelles and elephants to political figures are emblems of the regions they come from. The ones from Kenya are very beautiful, Shakya says. They make very nice dresses. I take the large swath of maroon eyepatterned fabric I buy from him for $2 to one of the many tailors working on vintage sewing machines along the edge of the market. They earn half the wages of used-clothing dealers. For $4 a seamstress whips me up a boatneck top in less than an hour. When I gesture to ask if I can take a photo of the stylish empire-waisted A-line dress she has made for herself in a similar pattern, she shakes her head shyly. African fashion, I say. They are the magic words. In a flash she transforms from suspicious to supermodel proud to show off her stuff. That a top she designed and custommade on the spot costs no more than a pair of cast-off jeans at the market shows me firsthand how hard it is for indigenous fashion to survive. Reporter Sarah Petrescu was in Africa as part of the Jack Webster Foundation and CIDA Seeing the World through New Eyes fellowship for young journalists.
This seamstress can design and make oneof-a-kind articles of clothing from local fabrics yet she commands only half the earnings of people who sell second-hand clothing donated from western charities.
SARAH PETRESCU, TIMES COLONIST
Thierry Shakya sells traditional fabrics at the Kimironko market.
SARAH PETRESCU, TIMES COLONIST