LuxuryAccommodation

Chateau de Massillanby Charlotte Cadness

F or many an accomplished traveller, the sights, scents and tastes of Provence are beyond compare. On a recent trip, I find that my love

affair with the region is revitalised, much of which I owe to the sumptuous surroundings I am fortunate enough to find myself in.

It is with a sense of eager anticipation that we approach Chateau de Massillan. This majestic castle was the hunting lodge for

Henry II and served as the primary residence of his lifelong consort, Diane de Poitiers. Renowned in the local area as a 16th century

architectural construct of dramatic proportions, the culinary delights and friendly service we encounter during our stay at this boutique hotel

propels my experience of luxury to even greater heights. The attention given to warm and personal service is a hallmark of this hotel and, as we

find on our arrival, this philosophy can sometimes have amusing consequences.

Even though our booking has been confirmed months in advance, the staff appear somewhat surprised at our arrival. As a consequence

of their policy of referring to guests solely on a first name basis, chateau staff unknowingly assume we are not making an appearance until the

following week. Apparently ‘Charlotte’ has just phoned to say that she will not be arriving this evening, and is still a few days away. The only

problem is that there are two Charlottes' scheduled to arrive at the same time. The mix-up is quite entertaining and the upside is that we have

the pleasure of a castle in the beautiful south of France all to ourselves.

The interior of Chateau de Massillan is fashioned in such a way that its remnants of 16th grandeur are perfectly showcased and juxtaposed

against elements of contemporary chic design. This modern look and feel is the work of the current owner, Birgit Israel, with most of the furniture

and fittings coming from her renowned design company Birgit Israel Interiors, based in London.

On our way up the winding staircase to our room we sample the visual smorgasbord of antique mirrors, beautiful paintings and historic

furniture on show at the hotel. The room itself is lovely, with a terrace overlooking the pool and courtyard below. It is spacious, finished with

elegant furnishings and embellished with a Muramo glass chandelier. The bathroom comes complete with a bathtub for guests to relax in and is

complemented with an array of L’Occitance de Provence goodies. Chateau de Massillan has 12 rooms and 1 suite, all individually designed and

each with a unique theme and layout in keeping with the building’s original architecture.

It is the food at the chateau that entirely surpasses all my expectations. I have never encountered a hotel that offers guests such a delectable

dining experience complemented by warm and intimate service. In the early evening, we make our way down to the salon on the far side of the

poolside courtyard and are met with glasses of champagne and Violette liqueur. I very quickly acquire a taste for this and it becomes my drink

of choice during our stay at this exquisite establishment. The salon is equipped with an appetising selection of authors from the owner’s private

collection and I settle myself in to browse one of my favourite books with the soft sound of jazz in the background. Our dinner is an absolute

culinary delight, a showcase of fresh produce from the local markets. The chateau’s Manager and Chef de Cuisine, Andreas, has previously

worked in Michelin star restaurants throughout Europe and his creative genius is evident in the dishes he serves. He makes a point of varying the

selection, whereby no two meals are the same during our stay at the hotel. Because the restaurant has only just opened for the season, we have

the overwhelming sense of being at home in this castle, with our very own personal chef who talks to us about his magic creations.

Whilst the castle is surrounded by world-renowned vineyards and the many historic attractions in the local villages of Orange and Avignon, we

barely leave the compound during our stay. The chateau boasts 24 acres of parkland and we spend our days on long walks in the surrounding

countryside, marvelling at the beauty and tranquillity. It really is one of the most relaxing places I have ever stayed.

Whether you are in search of the ultimate luxury escape, a taste of Provence, or wish to experience that feeling of coming home to your very

own castle, the Chateau de Massillan is an absolute delight.

27

Chateau de Massillan

Chemin Hauteville, Uchaux

+33(0)490406451

reservations@chateau-de-massillan.com

www.chateau-de-massillan.com

28

T here is a really easy way to tell a good hotel.

Think back to a time when you were visiting

home for Christmas, perhaps from the other

side of the world, and it was time to leave

treasured family and friends for another year. A feeling wells

up inside as you load your lead brick-like suitcases into

the car; simply put, it is a longing to stay. The real litmus

test of a really great hotel only occurs in the moment you

walk out the door. Do you want to stay longer? If you have

that feeling as you locate the hand brake on your Citroën

hire car, then you were lucky enough to have experienced

something out of the ordinary. Eventually, we did find

the hand brake and we slowly rolled down the tree-lined

driveway towards the narrow stone archway and iron gates

away from Villa Gallici.

Although it is situated on the northern hills of Aix-en-

Provence within a very short walk of the historic town

centre, you could be mistaken for thinking it was further

when the concierge thoughtfully offers you a bottle of water

for your journey. Luckily it is only a five minute stroll and,

now in our car, it was not long until we had found the sign

for ‘Toutes Directions’ and were winding our way slowly out

of this picturesque town.

We drove past the small road leading down into the town

Villa Galliciby Garrath Cadness

centre, where the previous day we had

walked down narrow cobblestone streets

and taken in the numerous small squares

with bubbling fountains. Cezanne once

took inspiration from the town and it is easy

to while away a day taking the Cezanne

tour of the town denoted by markers

in the cobblestones, stopping along the

way for an espresso as required. After

such a day of unhurried exploring, you

can stay in town to enjoy any number of

fine dining establishments within Aix-en-

Provence or you can slink back to your

private retreat within Villa Gallici and have

Chef de Cuisine Christophe Gavot prepare

you some outstanding dishes made with

local produce and a Provençal flare. If

you choose to enjoy an evening out, upon

your return there will be tea lights magically

delineating each shallow step along the

path from the courtyard to the reception

of the hotel, where the friendly and helpful

staff will offer a glass of Quin Quin, the local

aperitif, and homemade macaroons.

My reminiscing ended abruptly when two road signs, both pointing in opposite directions, purport to be the way to Marseille. We take

our chances and head right. At least the traffic was moving quickly within the town. One of the benefits of being in the Cote d’Azur during

April is that most of France is still working in Paris.

I wished I had purchased a few more of the bottles of red wine we found in the town the day before… wine taken back to our deluxe

room to enjoy. The décor of the rooms at Villa Gallici are truly unique in this era of minimalist chic. Flamboyant floral patterned fabrics

line the walls and frame the French doors and windows, taking you back to an era when less really was less. Our impressive room was a

duplex arrangement with a split landing between the levels giving you a grand view of the interior. A luxurious bathroom adorns the entire

upper level, dressed completely in white, and equipped with a perfectly sized bathtub ready for candlelight relaxation or just taking in the

view of Aix-en-Provence. Little by little, you notice the nuances within the décor of Villa Gallici. As would be expected, Provençal and

Italian styles predominate. As would not be expected, it is punctuated by a distinctive ‘Chinoix’ influence throughout the hotel, which often

compels you to stop and examine more closely.

The on-ramp to the auto-route lay ahead and again I felt that pang of sadness for not scheduling more time for beautiful Aix-en-Provence

and the hospitality we experienced at Villa Gallici. Much like home and family at Christmas time, I would gladly make this revitalising

destination part of an annual pilgrimage.

Villa Gallici Hotel

Avenue de la Violette

Aix en Provence

+33(0)442232923

reservation@villagallici.com

www.villagallici.com

Brown’s Hotelby Charlotte Cadness

In 1876, Alexander Graham Bell visited London to regale the British

government with his new invention that would allow the human

voice to traverse a pair of wires. On this day that would eventually

make the history books, he arrived at Brown’s Hotel with a large

handbag in tow which, to the surprise of then owner Henry Ford,

“contained not clothing, but a weird collection of instruments and wires”.

Using the Ford’s private telegraph line for his experiment, Bell

attached this new device to the wires and, in the early hours of the

morning, the two men spoke to each other with astonishing clarity.

Having set the scene for the first successful telephone call in the United

Kingdom, Brown’s has been making history ever since. Theodore

and Franklin Roosevelt were regular guests and stayed there on their

honeymoons, Rudyard Kipling wrote ‘The Jungle Book’, Agatha Christie

penned ‘At Bertram’s Hotel’, and Winston Churchill saw it as his

home-away-from-home whilst in London.

With so many stories hidden behind these walls, it would be difficult

to ignore the connection that Brown’s has with its history. The creeks

on the staircase are a reminder of the people who have gone before

and there is a definite lived in feel to this sophisticated hotel. I find my

mind wandering towards imaginings of Queen Victoria taking tea in The

English Tea Room as I make my way past its stylish interior endowed

with the original wall panelling and fireplaces. The English tea room has

been awarded ‘The Tea Guild’s Top London Afternoon Tea 2009’. This

accolade is the ‘Michelin Star’ of the tea world and makes Brown’s well

worth a visit, even for those simply passing through Mayfair. In one of

the function rooms I stop by the marriage certificate of Eleanor Roosevelt

and am reminded of her famous quote, “Life was meant to be lived and

curiosity must be kept alive”. It is with this shared sense of curiosity that

I venture up to my room to explore my surroundings and learn more

about the remarkable people that have enjoyed this space before me.

It is hard to believe that I am in the epicentre of London, the room is

quiet and the aspect very much to my liking (and my husband’s concern)

with a view of Tiffany & Co. in the street below. Situated in the heart of

Mayfair, Brown’s is just minutes from the tempting sidewalks of Bond

Street, the vibrant theatres of the West End, and the tranquillity of

Green Park. It is, however, a testament to the homely comfort of

the hotel that I chose not to venture into the heart of the city and

instead make my way down to the bar to sample some live jazz.

As the first ever hotel in London, established in 1837, Brown’s

certainly knows how to treat its guests and is well aware that

the luxury is in the details. The staff are courteous and, in

reverence to its classic English charm, the hotel is imbued with an

overwhelming atmosphere of understated service. Having been

recently renovated, the interior is in keeping with this air of refined

British elegance. The blend of soft colour schemes serves as a

backdrop to my large and inviting room in which contemporary

comfort is mixed with details that provoke a feeling of homeliness

and nostalgia.

Breakfast at the hotel is a delicious and healthy combination

of carefully sourced seasonal delights including fruit, pastries,

breads, cheese, fish and meat. All of this is lavishly displayed on

the central banquet, which creates an illusion of cocooned space

in the restaurant’s most open area. The art on the walls acts as

a tribute to the United Kingdom, featuring the works of some

of Britain’s leading artists. The Albemarle restaurant is open for

breakfast lunch and dinner, and specialises in the finest quality

British cooking.

No matter what your reason for visiting the great city of London,

it is well worth a visit to Brown’s. Either soak up the history of this

famous hotel or enjoy classic British fare right in the heart of Mayfair.

I can certainly guarantee that you won’t be disappointed.

Brown’s Hotel, Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London

+44(0)2074936020

reservations.browns@roccofortecollection.com

www.roccofortecollection.com

Wells Bay Lodge

Waiheke Island

By David Rhodes

Imagine a leisurely sail or motor from the buzz of Auck-land City to the quiet waters of Waiheke Island.

Pass the countless tempting bays to the easterly side of the island, tie up to the private jetty and spend a

few indulgent days ashore in a house right on the beach.The dream mix of ship and shore boating can be realised

at the Wells Bay Lodge, a glorious holiday rental. Although not exactly your down-to-earth Kiwi holiday bach, the Lodge offers a laid back charm tempered with enough luxury features to please all tastes while retaining a holiday atmos-phere that typifies Waiheke Island. This amazing beachfront property, with spectacular views across the channel to Ponui Island, is situated on rural land and offers the ideal spot to swim, fish, kayak and snorkel. When out of the ocean, the Lodge sports alternative entertainment: a tennis court, home theatre system, poolside barbeque and the chance to relax and sip chilled local wine beside the outdoor fireplace in the cool of the evening.

I eagerly accepted the invitation to visit Wells Bay Lodge. The bay proved a familiar sight; one of my favourite anchor-ages during years of sailing with the family lay just a little further east. I had often thought how privileged the owners were to have a mooring almost at their doorstep. And here we were, on the water’s edge, waves almost lapping onto the front lawn. A home and location set to impress.

With five double bedrooms and two bathrooms, there’s no reason not to bring the family… and a few guests. The spacious living area comprises a large lounge with an open The walls of the lodge are adorned with canvases by Waiheke

Island artists.

log fireplace, an inviting dining area and a stylish Italian kitchen. Not that guests need to make use of the cooking amenities if a break from household tasks is in order. Cater-ing is available on request at Wells Bay Lodge and, for those who wish to dine out, there are numerous vineyard res-taurants located around the island. Many offer sumptuous five-star cuisine in romantic vineyard surroundings and, from personal experience, come highly recommended.

If you prefer a more direct trip from the mainland, there’s a helicopter pad adjacent to the house or, alternatively, the 360º Discovery Ferry will drop you en route to Coromandel at the Lodge jetty. This is about a one-hour trip from down-town Auckland City. Either option makes a spectacular entry over or around the beautiful Hauraki Gulf, world-renowned for its spectacular scenery and cruising grounds.

Of course, nothing can really beat bringing your own vessel into Wells Bay. The private jetty allows easy boat ac-cess and, while larger vessels can only access the jetty one hour either side of high tide, there are three all-tide moorings in the bay.

Clearly this secluded position is a popular venue for family holidays, corporate functions and weddings. There’s nothing quite like having a beachfront to yourselves! With Auckland on the doorstep, this seclusion is easily reached in a relatively short time and, consequently, makes its position eminently suitable for functions with a difference. Wells Bay Lodge is equipped to arrange all function requirements from food to service. Just ask. For those with the luxury to enjoy a longer holiday or a place to unwind, spending a week or three would be bliss. Looking through the coffee table selec-tion in the lounge, an author of a well-known book had left a signed copy with appreciation of his stay. I understand he al-most wrote another book during his contemplative stopover.

The indoor/outdoor living space of the Lodge certainly impressed me. Seating, loungers and sun umbrellas on ex-pansive decks (both front and rear of the property) provided the optimum position to bask under our clear blue sky. The

morning sun provided the ideal position to breakfast after a quick dip in the high tide. The pool at the rear deck was bathed in sunshine in the afternoon and early evening during our high summer visit. We dined in a romantic candlelight setting under the stars (much appreciated without the haze of city lights) and the log fire held the days’ balmy tempera-ture through to the late evening. Good for the soul.

In this environment you can’t help but feel relaxed and refreshed. And if you’re now ready for some culture, Waiheke has no shortage of art, music and entertainment. Apart from the obvious beach attractions and activities, the Island is renowned for its Jazz Festivals, Art Galleries, Wine and Food Festivals (Waiheke wine is receiving ever-increas-

ing accolades) and the inspired Sculpture on the Gulf. Or, closer to the Wells Bay beachfront, a stroll along the small coves neighbouring the rural property to admire picturesque rocks, birdlife and trees. That might just be enough culture for one day.

Glancing through the Visitor’s Book, I note that Wells Bay Lodge attracts visitors and celebrities from far and wide. Jeremy Clarkson of Top Gear fame (pictured with helicopter on previous page) clearly rated this special Waiheke ren-dezvous amongst his favourite spots as it warranted repeat visits in 2009 and 2010. His comment, “Don’t change any-thing”, succinctly sums up my appraisal of Wells Bay Lodge.

Perfect tranquillity in BaliBy Kiwi Collection’s John Nielsen

There is a sense of calmness as the lights flicker at dusk and the Indian Ocean settles down. Sunset is the main feature for diners at Bali’s Jimbaran Bay. The freshly grilled seafood plates are served at one of the many beachfront restaurants as families watch their children play

by the water. The setting is picture perfect and the dining of wonderful value. The beautiful Jimbaran Bay has made a great recovery from the devastating

bomb attacks in October 2005 and visitors have once again recognised the stunning ambience that the beach and its excellent hotels offer. A walk along the beach and back to the first class Intercontinental Bali Resort is the perfect way to walk off the grilled lobster! As our feet trail through the warm waters of the Indian Ocean we are greeted by local salesmen, who smile and bid us well. As we enter the lush gardens of the Intercontinental the sounds of local musicians playing at the hotel’s sea-front restaurant to smiling diners remind us why Jimbaran Bay is back to its best.

There is a new sense of vigour and positiveness for the locals, as tourists have returned to support the local economy. The luxury traveller has an excellent selection of first class hotels on Jimbaran Bay to choose from. The location is ideal with only a 15-minute drive from Denpasar International Airport, and for the keen plane-spotter, the beach is a fascinating place to observe the many planes that land and take off. Most of hotels are located at the northern end of the beach with small villages tucked away in-between.

These villages that also offer a huge array of beachfront dining options, a must for any visitor to Bali. Located only a few minutes walk from the Intercontinental is the Four Seasons, who on this night have created a very stylish dining service on the beach. Lanterns and candles are dotted around the beach, and diners are served in their own private hut by first-class staff. It’s pure magic!

Further around the bay the cool sounds of upbeat jazz are played at the newest nightspot, the Rock Bar at the Ayana Resort & Spa hotel. Designed by Japanese designer Yasuhiro Koichi from Design Studio Spin in Tokyo, this open-air bar is of totally unique concept and so suited to Bali. The Tapas and cocktails are served by smiling staff to the beat of the pounding waves and music. The sight sets the open-air bar very much apart from the other hotels in the area.

A short walk along the path leads us through to the seafood restaurant where candles light up the coastline; smiling diners are clearly thrilled with their choice. Our choice for late night dessert is the open-air Italian restaurant and wow, is it good. Both the baked pizza-apple-tart with honey ice cream and the classic Tiramisu are splendid. We all agree that we will return to savour a few main courses – those we see being served look divine – and maybe enjoy another cocktail at the Rock Bar.

A Club InterContinental room at their luxurious resort at Jimbaran Bay, Bali. Previous pages: The main pool at dusk.

Next morning is spent waking up with a jog along the beach. Swimmers are playing in the surf, and other travellers walk along the beach through the warm waters. I dive into the brilliant buffet at the Intercontinental, where the freshly baked breads and cooked eggs are devoured by breakfast guests. The juice selection recommends a blend of apple, carrot and lime to rid me of last night’s toxins and invigorate my day! With my body well taken care of we venture off north for a day of rafting in Ubud. The concierge had arranged an excellent driver to take care of us, who helps us all the way and explains the local attractions as we head north. The rafting experience is sheer joy and fun, the family loving every moment and gaining a very different view of Ubud along the rivers.

After a day of fun we have all built up our appetite to feast at the Intercontinental’s award winning Japanese restaurant, Ko. The chefs are the showmen and cook up a storm on the Teppanyaki grill, creating flames, action and fun, and at the same time producing a very tasty dining experience.

The main entrance of the InterContinental Bali Resort at Jimbaran Bay.

The Intercontinental Bali Resort has 418 rooms, but the real joy is staying in their “Club InterContinental” room floors, where a few extra services are added, and well worth the extra dollars. The newly refurbished rooms show off indigenous timbers, rich fabrics and subtle lighting, creating an inviting and stylish ambience. The Club wing has a private pool with that also has a small outdoor café where breakfast and lunch can be enjoyed. The creme of the Club is the beautiful lounge that serves up plenty of goodies, from morning until late night. Enjoy the evening cocktails with sushi chefs, spicy Balinese treats and even a glass or two of local wine! As a club member breakfast is served at the main all-day café or in the Italian restaurant or in the private club lounge. The delightful club staff are a joy to seek help from and will tailor tours and other activities especially for you – so make sure you seek them out, as local knowledge always helps. Overall the hotel is a treat, elegantly designed public areas with superb services to complement the 14 hectares of tropical landscape. Its beachfront location just adds that bit extra, making the visit complete.

Our days of lying by one of the six sensational pools and feasting at the hotel’s various dining venues are soon over. We love how dining here is mostly done under the stars, with warm evenings and stunning sunset views. The quality of food, service and value is superb at Jimbaran Bay, be it on the beach, at the Rock Bar or in the Intercontinental Bali Resort. The hotel facilities are first rate with large rooms, manicured gardens, pools galore and dining outlets that give you something new every day in addition to the many local eateries. As the jet powers down the runway we look out at Jimbaran Bay, waving ‘goodbye and see you soon’, smiling with the thoughts of our holiday experience.

The InterContinental Resort’s Bukit suite.

Castaway Cottage: Hawkesbury RiverBy Alasdair Scott

“A number of unique family-operated

boatsheds, most only accessible by

water, provided countless anglers

with dormitory accommodation along

the lower reaches of the Hawkesbury

River for over one hundred years.

In 1938 the usual tariff for bed,

board, bait and a seat in a boat

from Friday until Sunday was twelve

shillings and sixpence. Patrons came

from a variety of backgrounds and

included barristers, bookmakers,

businessmen, drovers, slaughtermen,

jockeys, blue collar workers, members

of fishing clubs, policemen and public

servants.”

John Holland, Growing up on the Hawkesbury –

Recollections of a River Rat

Australians have written about it, fished it, lived on it, explored it and enjoyed it as a wonderfully diverse playground, yet it seems to remain one of New South Wales’

best kept secrets. The mighty Hawkesbury River has an incredibly rich history and was one of the major transportation routes for delivering food from the surrounding area to Sydney during the 1800s. It has seen Aboriginal and European settlement, destructive floods, a thriving agricultural community and on Milson Island, an isolation hospital that accommodated WWI servicemen who had returned from overseas suffering contagious diseases. What the Hawkesbury hasn’t seen isn’t worth mentioning.

An hour’s drive north from the Sydney Harbour Bridge via the Gore Hill Freeway, Pacific Highway and the F3 Freeway heading towards Newcastle, is a hideaway that has been described as Australia’s most beautiful recreational waterway.

Under the shadow of the iron bridge running alongside the F3 freeway is Kangaroo Point where we meet our river taxi. There is ample parking around the public wharf area and according to locals, vehicle break-ins are extremely rare. As we loaded our supplies into the water taxi, I was relieved we had decided to do our shopping in Sydney before we left. If you elect the self-catering option, you will certainly suffer lean times if you attempt to buy provisions at Kangaroo Point, given the absence of shops.

Our water taxi driver, Justin, a second generation “River Rat”, happily responded to my question on who resided in the tidy homes along the water’s edge at Milson’s Passage. Although I was looking for something a little more broad, he singled out each property as we cruised past “a retired cop, a local boatbuilder, a couple from Sydney who spend weekends here…” the list went on. It highlighted for me that this was no impersonal spot where one comes to get away from it all – this was a close-knit community, where everyone knew each other, often stopping for a chat and always willing to lend a hand.

Some landowners, who are not part of the

permanent set, rent out their properties to holiday-makers looking for a little less stress than they are perhaps used to. One such property is Castaway Cottage, a well kept, tidy and comfortable two-bedroom haven set on the water’s edge, with a view directly across to Milson Island.

Castaway Cottage is not what you would expect; especially if what you expect is five-star luxury. Built in the days before they could guarantee the integrity of the building’s piles, Castaway Cottage has charm and beauty infused into its DNA, creating a character that is virtually impossible to reproduce in modern architecture.

To be truthful, there is a bit of an uphill walk from the kitchen to the veranda; the composting toilet won’t suit everyone (sad but true); and there is no satellite TV or high speed Internet link. What is on offer is something far more fulfilling; an opportunity to experience a piece of history on your front doorstep, a chance to lie in a hammock for several hours and read from the eclectic bookshelf that offers everything from Tennyson to Tom Clancy; and a chance to get away from what we think is important and indulge in what actually is important; self-rejuvenation.

Just because the building is historic, don’t for a minute think the service mirrors the aging architecture. As we entered the cottage for the first time, music wafted through the house, lights were on and the doors were open. It felt so welcoming and was just the beginning of many little touches that helped to make our stay so enjoyable.

The cottage consists of two double bedrooms, a separate lounge, well-appointed kitchen, bathroom, and a covered veranda area which has fabulous views out to the water’s edge, just metres away. The veranda leads to a cosy outdoor BBQ area with seating for eight. This handy, shaded spot, complete with BBQ and outdoor gas heater, is a perfect location to enjoy a meal and a bottle of fine Australian wine. The Cottage boasts a private jetty and pontoon with ladder access, making it perfect for fishing or swimming at high tide.

Castaway Cottage ‘has charm and beauty infused into its DNA’. Clockwise from above right: one of the two bedrooms; river view from the kitchen; the old Shell sign at Spencer Wharf.

The thick white fluffy towels and crisp white linen sheets were impeccably clean, reminiscent of a five-star hotel. And while the décor couldn’t stretch to five-star status, it matched the architecture beautifully in that it was a diverse worldly collection of mirrors, lamps, bedheads, light fittings and knick knacks that gave the cottage a homely feel.

One cannot help but speculate on the psyche of the trusting owners who open their holiday homes to outsiders, such as those who own Castaway Cottage. Clearly the massive LP record collection and turntable reflects a predilection for a pre-digital era, not to mention a selection that was equally as diverse and plentiful as the offerings in the bookshelf. The Cottage does offer a CD and DVD player for those who can’t rip themselves away from modern technology, but using these almost felt like cheating.

Without a boat to explore the river, you do feel a little isolated at Castaway. This is perfect if you buy into the self-rejuvenation schedule, but for the more adventurous, there are a couple of kyaks at the Cottage or you can hire a tinny from Brooklyn. If you prefer to keep your feet dry, check out the Mugomarra Nature Reserve immediately behind the Cottage. Although there are no tracks, as long as you keep climbing, after 20 or so minutes, clambering up the sides of massive boulders, you’ll be rewarded with the most spectacular views of the Hawkesbury River some 300 metres below. From this vantage point, spread out before you is a vast river system, with evidence of settlements dotted along the shore. As I pondered the scene before me, a float plane glided gracefully onto the shimmering water, presumably heading for a restaurant at the delightfully named Sunny Corner.

We were fortunate enough to be shown the river by an expert guide. Jacquie, who runs Hawkesbury River Bookings, has lived on the river for 22 years despite originating from across the ditch. Her company looks after many of the rentals on the river and ensures guests arrive to immaculately clean accommodation and a welcoming atmosphere. Pointing out settlements, filling us in on Hawkesbury folklore and updating us on events, activities and goings-on in the area, it is clear Jacquie has her heart set firmly in the Hawkesbury. We stopped for coffee at Spencer, a small settlement on the river referred to as “The hub of the Universe”. The Spencer Village Store is run by another ex-pat Kiwi, Di Stuart. Offering a variety of food and beverage supplies, this charming store is acessible both by river and road and has been a popular meeting place in the region for over 60 years.

Once back at our Cottage, flicking through the visitor’s book provided ample evidence of the effect the Cottage has had on an array of international and local guests. The comments were overwhelmingly positive and the most common theme was “we’ll definitely be back”. I couldn’t have said it better myself.

To be truthful, there is a bit of an uphill walk from the kitchen to the veranda; the

composting toilet won’t suit everyone (sad but true); and there is no satellite TV

or high speed Internet link. What is on offer is something far more fulfilling...

MolliesA Study In EleganceBy Alasdair Scott

A t first glance, Mollies boutique hotel sits naturally

among residential houses in the neatly clipped,

quiet Auckland surburban street. However, step

inside this exquisitely decorated luxury hotel and

enter a juxtaposed world of antiques, modern furniture, superb

service, opera, fine dining and exemplary accommodation.

Nestled on a ridge with spectacular views of Auckland’s

Harbour Bridge and the city, Mollies has enjoyed a rich and

varied history. Originally built in the 1870s as the home of

Auckland’s first Mayor Philip Philips, the property was later

converted to a convent for the Little Sisters of the Poor. It

began life as a guest house in the early 1960s.

In the style of the times, Mollies’ grand Victorian gables and

verandah were removed in favour of a flat seventies façade. Her

plaster walls were painted avocado green, brown and orange,

and she became the Harbour Bridge Motel. For over 40 years

she was run by Mollie Wilson as a fabulously seventies-steeped

guest house - a home to thousands of guests, some of whom

stayed for months at a time.

In 2001, Mollie convinced her daughter Frances Wilson and

son-in-law Stephen Fitzgerald, who had both just returned

from fifteen years living in New York where they ran a business

designing apartments, to buy the motel. Drawing on their

many years of involvement in the world of opera and interior

63

A recently introduced facility at Mollies is the East Day Spa,

an alluring union of eastern holistic healing traditions and premium

western beauty therapies. Massage therapies

include Shiatsu, Balinese, Lomi Lomi and Swedish,

hot stone and Mantra – two therapists,

four hands, for total relaxation.

design, Frances and Stephen began the two-year transformation of

this nineteenth century villa into the exquisite small luxury hotel it is

today.

Mollies offer 13 magnificently appointed premier accommodation

suites. Each spacious suite is very individual - some with balconies

overlooking the immaculate gardens, while others are afforded a

view of Auckland city and its surrounds. All rooms boast fine art

pieces and antiques in keeping with the overall décor of the hotel.

Air-conditioning units in each room ensure you can enjoy whatever

temperature suits you.

Attention to detail seems to be a catch-phrase at Mollies. A

selection of CDs available in each room, give a hint of the owner’s

preferences: Pavarotti, Beethoven and Bach, while the suite’s home

theatre system provides visual entertainment in the form of a large

and varied DVD selection available in the downstairs library, as well

as a selection of TV channels. The bathrooms in each suite feature a

spa bath, twin sinks, wet shower and an assortment of soaps, lotions

and body gels from Molton Brown in the United Kingdom. The heated

marble floors also ensure a late night visit to the bathroom is not an

unpleasant experience.

A recently introduced facility at Mollies is the East Day Spa, an

alluring union of eastern holistic healing traditions and premium

western beauty therapies. Massage therapies include Shiatsu,

Balinese, Lomi Lomi and Swedish, hot stone and Mantra – two

therapists, four hands, for total relaxation. An extensive menu of

treatments and cleansing options are available on request.

No visit to Mollies would be complete without experiencing their

sumptuous cuisine and fine wine selection. Originally reserved for

in-house guests, Mollies restaurant is now open to the public to

experience their menu of the best of local produce. The evening we

visited Mollies, Frances could be found at the piano accompanying

a budding opera singer - and don’t be surprised if the wine waiter

excuses himself and joins her at the piano for a duet, such is the

uniqueness of Mollies.

Mollies is part of the Relais & Chateau group. This is a global group of

individually owned and operated hotels and restaurants renowned for its

strict admission standards including the group's traditional “5 C” motto:

Courtsey, Charm, Character, Calm and Cuisine. It is little wonder Mollies

has been admitted to this exclusive group. Mollies live by the Relais &

Chateau’s 5 C’s and they do it with style and flair.

There are many hotels claiming five-star status. However, you

would struggle to find one that offers the uniqueness and charm of

Mollies, delivered with such finesse. If you are looking for something

out of the ordinary, then next time you visit Auckland, make sure you

make time to visit this superb dining and accommodation experience.