8/18/2019 Scrapbook Cardi -- Reverse-Engineered Pattern Final

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Scrapbook cardi – reverse-engineered patternwritten by loshakova

Sweater description from White Stuff website: “This chunky medium knit cardigan has pretty

coconut buttons and cap sleeves. It looks perfect with light denim for casual summer look.”!!" #otton$achine WashableSi%e &: high shoulder neck point to hem is appro' ()cm *&+ ,”-

White Stuffs si%e guide for si%e /0 si%e &:+1” *)+ cm- bust&)” *1+ cm- waist2!” *!- hip

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34T5S:Im not affiliated in any way with White Stuff. 6ny errors in this pattern are mine.

I dont know how much ease there is meant to be. Since I dont have the actual sweatermeasurements7 I looked up the /0 gauge for chunky yarn to try and figure them outretroactively. 8arn 9orward has the following information in their tension guide:

“#hunky( stitches and &! rows to ! cm. *2 inches- on a mm */S !- needle. In the /0 what isreferred to as a chunky is what 3orth 6mericans call a ;ulky. 6gain check your pattern andtension carefully.”

That translates to a gauge of + < st ' ( rows per inch. 6t this gauge7 counting stitches androws and doing the math7 I get a bust circumference of +.=2” and a shoulder>to>bottom>edgelength of &(”. This indicates ” of negative ease in the bust. This seems about right to me7given that the upper part of each center front panel is wider than the lower part and that thesweater only buttons at the neck.

5'trapolated measurements of pictured sweater:back length: & rows ribbing ? 2 rows stockinette ? 2! sts sideways section to shoulder length @ (.&” ? ).&” ? !.” A@ &(” long from Bunction of neck and shoulder to bottom*slightly longer than they indicated for a si%e &C is the pictured sweater a si%e &D-back width @ ! rows wide in sideways section7 ) sts wide in bottom ribbing *this leaves apurl st on each end of the ribbing at the side seam-.

Eont skip the swatching step for this sweaterF 0nit a ” ' ” swatch7 and wash and dry it thesame way you plan to treat the sweater. Then7 lay it flat and measure out a 2” sGuare7 andcount the stitches and rows. In order to get a /0 si%e & sweater7 you will need to match the

stitch and row counts in the violet bo' above. ;oth the stitch and row gauges are importanthere7 since parts of the sweater are knitted sideways.

4ne other note: In case people find this pattern after the sweater is out of production7 Ivesaved all the pictures to my hard drive. Ive uploaded the picture files to my flickr accounthere:front7 back7 button detail7 model shot7 White Stuff si%e guide  */0 si%ing-

I3STH/#TI43SBACKSideways back yoke: 

#ast on 2& sts *& e'tra for seam sts-. Starting on the WS with a purl row7 knit in stockinettefor 1 rows7 ending with a WS purl row. 4n ne't HS row7 #4 &! sts on right side of row7 thenknit across new stitches and rest of row. *The e'tra cast>on stitches will make up the back ofthe tall neck.- Turn and purl across. #ontinue in stockinette for another && rows for a total of&2 neck rows7 ending with a purl row. 4n the ne't HS row7 bind off the first &! sts to finish theneck piece. #ontinue in stockinette until you have knitted 1 more rows7 for a total of ! rowsacross the yoke7 ending with a HS row. ;ind off on ne't row.

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Lower back and ribbing: 9or this section7 you will be knitting from the top down. /sing a needle one or two si%essmaller than your working needles7 pick up ! sts along the bottom edge of the yoke. /singyour working needles7 and knit in stockinette for 2 rows7 ending with a purl row. Increaserow: p7 k7 p7 k7 p. In ne't st7 kfb. repeat from star to star ) times7 then p7 k7 p7 k7p for a total of ) sts. #ontinue in k=p ribbing7 knitting each knit stitch and purling each

purl stitch7 for &( more rows7 ending with a WS row. ;ind off in ne't row.

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FRONSide !ront pieces "knitted vertica##y$:9or each piece7 #4 ! sts and work ! rows. 4n the ne't WS purl row7 bind off.

Center !ront pieces "knitted %ori&onta##y$:Hight front:

/sing a needle one or two si%es smaller than your working needles7 pick up ! sts knitwisealong long inside front edge. 0nit across these stitches with your working needle7 workingk&tog every 2th st all the way across. 8ou should now have J! sts. Turn and purl back.

Note: In case youre curious about what youre doing here >> your goal is to pick up < asmany stitches as there are rows in the side front panels. This is because your stitch gaugecontains < as many stitches as your row gauge. 6 nice way to do work the pick>up rowwithout ending up with little holes every 2th stitch is to pick up 6KK the stitches7 and thenk&tog every 2th st all the way across the first row.

#ontinue in stockinette until you have knitted 1 rows7 ending with a HS knit row.

4n ne't WS purl row7 starting at shoulder end7 #4 &! sts at the beginning of the row with apurled>on cast>on *do the same way as a knitted>on cast>on7 only work purl stitches instead ofknit stitches-. Then7 purl across the new stitches and rest of row.#ontinue in stockinette for another +1 rows7 ending at shoulder edge with a HS knit row.

 6ngled front shaping:8ou will be shaping the angled fronts with short rows.4n ne't WS row7 p&27 make twinned st7 turn.4n all HS short rows7 knit back to shoulder.4n ne't WS row7 p&+7 make twinned st7 turn.

4n ne't WS row7 p&&7 make twinned st7 turn.#ontinue in this manner until you have 2 sts left on the needle. 0nit back to shoulder7 thenbind off across side of neck and entire front edge on the ne't WS row7 purling each pair oftwinned stitches as a single stitch.

Keft front:Lick up J! sts purlwise along inside front edge. 4n WS7 purl across these stitches with yourworking needle7 working p&tog every 2th st all the way across. 8ou should now have J! sts.#ontinue in stockinette until you have knitted 1 rows7 ending with a WS purl row. 4n ne'tHS knit row7 starting at shoulder end7 #4 &! sts at the beginning of the row with a knitted>oncast>on. Then7 purl across the new stitches and rest of row.

#ontinue in stockinette for another +1 rows7 ending at shoulder edge with a WS purl row.

 6ngled front shaping:8ou will be shaping the angled fronts with short rows.4n ne't HS row7 k&27 make twinned st7 turn.4n all WS short rows7 purl back to shoulder.4n ne't HS row7 k&+7 make twinned st7 turn.4n ne't HS row7 k&&7 make twinned st7 turn.#ontinue in this manner until you have 2 sts left on the needle. Lurl back to shoulder7 then

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bind off across side of neck and entire front edge on ne't HS7 knitting each pair of twinnedstitches as a single stitch.

'OCK(S:#4 +! sts. Work in stockinette for +2 rows. ;ind off. Hepeat for &nd pocket.

S(A)*N+:Lockets:Lin pockets to center fronts7 aligning stitches of pockets to match those of center fronts. 9orreference7 the pockets are sewn to the )th column of stitches from the bottom edge7 so youshould be able to count J columns of stitches below the pocket. Sew pockets to fronts7 withstitches pointing hori%ontally to match fronts. Keave outside edges open.

Shoulders:/sing mattress stitch or slip>stitch crochet7 seam the shoulders and sides of neck. If you wantto use mattress stitch here7 and you need a tutorial for vertical>to>hori%ontal mattress stitch7here are a few to choose from:$ochimochi Kand0nitty

 6nnies #atalog

Side seams: Ive thought a lot about how to do the side seams7 and I think for this sweaterthat it might work well to use slip stitch crochet on the wrong side. This will make it easy tocatch the pocket in the side seam. 6n alternative would be to use mattress stitch up to thepoint where the pocket starts7 then use whip stitch for the pocket section7 then do theremainder of the side seam with mattress stitch without cutting the yarn. That would reGuireswitching from the right side to the wrong side and back to the right side again. Im going towrite out the instructions for crocheted slip stitch seams7 since thats how Id do it.

Erape sweater over your shoulders7 and place a markers on each front at the side seam7 atthe point where youd like the armholes to start. The goal is to seam to a point where thearmholes are comfortable for you. 0eep in mind that the sleeves on this sweater areconstructed kimono style M they are knitted straight out from the *also straight- armholes7 in aT shape7 with no shoulder shaping. The fit in the picture shows the sleeves with probably >&”of ease M enough that they wont bind7 but not enough that theyll stick straight out like pipeflanges. 8ou only have to place markers in front. Then7 take the sweater off and measurefrom the bottom edge to each of your stitch markers. If the measurements are not the same7take the average of the two to use as your side seam length and reposition the markers tomark off this length for the side seams.

With right sides facing each other7 pin the fronts and back together at the side seams. /singa crochet hook7 slip stitch each side seam7 catching the first and last 1 sts of each outsideedge of the pocket into the seam but leaving the center pocket sts free to make the pocketopening. Try on swear and test out the pockets to make sure you can comfortably get yourhands in. If the openings are too small7 undo the side seams and redo them with fewer of thepocket stitches caught into the seam.

8ou should now have something that looks like a sleeveless vest with a turtleneck.

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SL((,(S:This is the one place where I cant include precise stitch counts7 as I dont have a picture ofthe sweater laid out flat and different people will want armholes of different depths. Eontsweat it. Neres what you do: Starting on the front side of one armhole7 pick up < as manystitches as there are rows. Write this number down. 4n the back side7 pick up one stitch foreach sideways yoke stitch7 then pick up enough vertical back stitches that you end up with the

same number of picked>up stitches on the front and back of the armhole. If you dont like littlebumps at the seams7 you can pick up an e'tra stitch at each seam. 8ou are in control here7so do it in whatever way makes you comfortable.

3ote: To avoid holes in the pick>up row7 you can use the same techniGue I wrote out for thecenter fronts: you can pick up 6KK the vertical stitches7 and k& tog every 2th stitch acrossthose stitches. Oust write down whichever way you decide to do it7 so you can do it the sameway for the second sleeve. If you decide to do this7 I suggest that you place markers at thebeginning and end of the sideways yoke stitches to remind you not to work any decreases inthat area. 6t the end of the row7 count the front armhole stitches and the back armholestitches to make sure the counts match. 8ou may be one stitch off between the front and theback. If that happens7 Bust leave out one of the k&togs on the appropriate side to make thingsmatch up.

Ooin sleeve sts for knitting in the round7 placing a marker at the beginning of the round.#ontinue in stockinette until you have knitted sleeve rounds. ;4 on ne't round.

When you finish the cast>off7 the end of the row will be one stitch higher than the beginning.8ou can seamlessly Boin the end to the beginning as follows: #ut yarn7 leaving a tail of aboutJ”7 and thread tail onto a yarn needle. Lass needle p through #ast cast>off stitch7 thent%rog% the space between the !irst and second cast>off stitches and back down through#ast cast>off stitch. This will create an e'tra stitch that duplicates the first cast>off stitch7seamlessly Boining the beginning and end of the round. Weave in tail invisibly.

F*N*S.*N+:Try on the sweaterand mark whereyoud like thebuttons to go. $akeyarn buttonholes onwhichever side ofthe front youd liketo have on top7 andsew the buttons tothe other side of theneck near the sideseam7 leavingenough room forneck ease. PNowto make yarn buttonholes: 6nchor yarn on one side of the buttonhole. With a yarn needle7 runyarn through neck at other side of buttonhole7 leaving a loop large enough for your button togo through. Then7 either work blanket stitch or crochet slip stitches across the looop to theother edge. Lull both ends of yarn through to wrong sideC tie off and weave in ends.

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I hope you enBoy this patternF If you find any mistakes7 please send me a L$ and let meknow so I can correct the pattern. If you have any Guestions7 feel free to ask and Ill be happyto try to help. LS M here are some Guick>and>dirty hand>drawn schematics7 because I hatepatterns without schematics. The first one shows the order and direction of knittingC thesecond one shows the assembled garment with measurements.