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  • 8/9/2019 Scotland Trip Original Journal

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    Spring Break, School Vacation, Mother-daughter bonding trip, European Holiday Whatever you

    want to call itMarina and I began our journey on Friday, April 9th

    .

    We boarded the British Airways plane for London Gatwick on time at JFK. The plane was full and

    we were envious of the people in first class (with their individual compartments/beds) and business

    class (with recliner seats) but our cheap seats werent too bad. The captain had requested a specific

    take-off runway which would have had an immediate departure, but the request was denied and we

    had to wait in a cue of 30 planes. We took off about an hour late, but there were such strong tail winds,

    that we more than made up for the delay. Even though we took an early light, we were tired. I

    managed to sleep or rest with eyes closed nearly the entire flight. Marina watched one movie, Marley

    and Me, and then slept as well. We hit one big patch of turbulence which normally would freak Marina

    out, but we just held hands and continued to sleep.

    We arrived in London at about 6:15 a.m. The airport was huge but we managed to find our gate

    with no problem and plenty of time to spare. The flight to Glasgow was also packed, but it hardly

    mattered because aside from taking off, when a horrible breakfast was served, when it was taken way

    and Marina folded up my tray and when we landed, Islet the entire time. The flight was quicker than

    expected due to winds, and before we knew it, we landed in Glasgow around 9:00. It took no time to

    pick up our one suitcase and finally we got outside to the fresh air.

    We took a black taxi to the city. The driver was very friendly, very chatty and had a VERY

    strong accent. On the way to the hotel, he pointed out certain parts of the city, and that came in handy

    later on when we ventured out on our own.

    We were at Fraser Suites by 9:30 and

    luckily our room was ready!!! The hotel is

    interesting in that it occupies the top three

    floors of an 1800s Baronial-style building

    which has shops and cafs below.

    The room is very large with 20 high

    ceilings, sparse modern furniture and a nice

    kitchenette with microwave, fridge and 2

    burner stove.

    I unpacked in no time, and being that it was so

    early we decided to lay down for a quick nap. Marina

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    wanted to call one of her You Tube/internet friends, Ziggy at

    11:30 (one of the reasons we made this trip was to meet her

    friends). She was so worried that wed sleep the day away,

    that I had to set the alarm for 11:15. Before I knew it, it was

    11:45, the alarm was still going and we had been fast asleep.

    No big deal when Marina called Ziggy around noon, she woke

    him up!!!

    Phone call out of the way, we decided to head out and

    get acclimated with Glasgow. We walked and walked and

    walked. Until we got some food in us (quick snack at Burger

    King) and I had a strong cup of coffee, we were still feeling a

    bit off due to the jet lag. But we got the wind in our sails and

    were out and about until 5:30 p.m.

    The center of the city has a huge pedestrian area (actually there are many pedestrian streets),

    Buchanan Street, that is filled to the brim with shops, shopping arcades, an enormous mall (which we

    will go to non Easter Sunday when all else is closed) and many restaurants and caves. The city is NOT at

    all touristy. The area was teeming with

    people. We went to an internet caf (to

    the left around the corner in front of the

    church in the photo), each purchasing 30

    minutes of time for 1 pound 50, and I

    even found a computer with 15 minutes

    left on it (kind of like finding a parking

    meter with extra minutes!) We caught up

    with our correspondence Marina

    chatted with Malka who appears happy

    and computer-ODing back home, as well

    as with Ziggy, who although now is so

    near, seems so far because they talk via

    the net.

    Buchanan Street

    We then went to a beautiful art-nouveau building called Princes Square which had 5 floors of

    shops and eateries. On the lower level was a mosaic floor where a bunch of little kids were running

    around as if it were a lovely day in the park.

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    Regarding the weather, it started a bit

    chilly but since we walked so much it wasnt too

    noticeable. The sun barely showed itself and it

    was cloudy with a few drizzles. The worst part of

    which was that it makes for grey, dull, photos.

    We went into a bunch of little stores,

    bought some junk for Marina at the Pound Store

    the British equivalent to the Dollar Store and we

    picked up some groceries at Marks and Spencer.

    We wanted to go to the Sharmanka Kinetic

    Gallery and Theatre, which seems to be a 2nd

    floor

    hole in the wall which we walked right past, but it

    is only open on Thursdays and Sundays. Well try

    again on Sunday even though it is a holiday.

    We earlier stopped at the Queen Street

    train station and picked up the schedules for trains

    to other cities that we hope to visit.

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    It is now 6:45 local time and we are in for the night. EastEnders is on TV at 89:00 and

    then well plan tomorrow, read and get a good nights sleep.

    Saturday 4/10

    EastEnders was strange. Marina didnt get it but thats to be expected since they are

    seven years ahead of where we are in the plot in the U.S. Marina quickly fell asleep around

    8:30 as soon as the show ended. I wasnt far behind. Supposedly, she woke up at 23:00 hours,

    confused, but fell asleep again. We were both briefly up around 4:00 but were finally

    awakened by the alarm at 8:30. Thats TWELVE HOURS sleep for Marina! We should be good

    to go all day today!

    Being that it is Saturday (and Shabbat), and being that Marina is so agreeable and

    perhaps even thankful because we are in Scotland, we are now getting ready to go to Temple!

    1:00 Well, were back from Temple. We had a cab pick us up at the hotel around 10:15.

    I told the driver we wanted 27 Hill Street. It was far across town we would have never make it

    there by foot at a decent time (especially since we were wearing boots mine with heels)

    Anyway, we got to #27 but it was a church. Hmm that cant be. But we got out of the cab and

    figured wed eventually find it. What I DID find was the scrap of paper that said #127, so we

    walked up a hill to the end of the street and there was the Garnethill Synagogue.

    A man opened the main door and

    looked at us quizzically with his turquoise

    kippah/yarmulke on his balding head. (He

    kind of reminded us of Rif-Raf from theRocky Horror Picture Show). I said,

    Shabbat Shalom, what is that a secret

    Jewish password?, and he opened the

    door winder and asked if we were there

    for services. I said yes and immediately

    he was apologetic that the heat in the

    main sanctuary was not working so

    services were being held in the Kiddish

    room downstairs. Oh no! I thought.Well be trapped down there with no way

    to escape if its really boring, but how

    rude would it be to change our minds? So

    we entered a sunlit room where 10 men

    (at least they had a minyan) (two more

    men eventually showed up) sat up front

    and 5 women (7 if you count us) prayed

    from the back.

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    Each person had his or her own worn Siddur (prayer book). I tried to follow, as best I

    could, in the Artscroll Siddur that was on the table in front of us. The entire service was done in

    Hebrew, many (most) prayers in melodies foreign to us, some the same. The Rabbi wasnt

    there today since he lives 9 miles away and had already walked the distance for the 2 days of

    Passover, he asked for the day off. We sat next to a lovely woman, Mrs. Wright, who has been

    a member of the shul for 65 years (shes 70 now). She told us that there are about 125

    members of the Temple but most are old (many in their 90s) There are no children any more,

    and the youngest congregant is a 21 year old college student who was present today. They

    dont anticipate being a congregation much longer. Others dont want to merge since the

    location is so far from Jewish shops across town where Jews now live. Eventually the building

    will become a museum and archive.

    We were invited to stay for Kiddish (which looked like it might just consist of tea), but

    we gratefully declined. Before leaving, we went upstairs to see the beautiful sanctuary. This

    was the first Temple built in Scotland and it was renovated about 10 years ago. Its a shame its

    not used and will soon we shuttered but for the occasional tourist.

    We luckily caught a cab back to the hotel. Marina called her friends - and we called

    home (calls to the US with our calling card are free on Saturdays) and now we are anxiously

    awaiting the arrival of Ziggy and Mike!

    2:20 rolled around and still no boys. Marina was soooooo nervous. She said she felt like

    she did when she was getting her ears pierced. Anyway, I finally said, call them! and when

    she did, it turned out they had just arrived downstairs. They had gotten lost after getting off

    their train and basically walked around the city for 1 hours before finding their way here

    (They must be exhausted now after I had them walk another FOUR hours!) Back to 2:20 I let

    Marina go down to the lobby to greet Mike and Ziggy and a minute later the three kids came

    knocking on the door. They are so cute and both boys were about as nervous as Marina!

    There were a bunch of sites I wanted to see, so I figured Id drag the kids around. We

    first went to the Barras, which is a HUGE flea market thats been around 100 or so years. It

    sounded better in the tour books than it

    was in reality. In actuality, it was filled

    with junk, so after about 15 minutes, I

    turned us in another direction and we

    headed towards the Necropolis. It is alarge, old, impressive cemetery opened

    in 1830. It is on a hill over-looking the

    city. The first person buried there was

    actually Jewish. Mike and Ziggy had

    never seen or heard of the place before

    and really enjoyed seeming it (As did

    Marina and I)!

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    We then went to the Cathedral which dates to the 13th century. This is Scotlands only

    complete medieval cathedral. There was a man playing the organ which kind of freaked Ziggy

    out! It It

    From the Necropolislooking towards the Cathedral

    It was a brilliant day today; sunny, crisp weather, a bit windy, but perfect for walking

    around and snapping photos.

    From the Cathedrallook towards the Necropolis.

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    From up the hill where the Cathedral is, we walked down to the center of the city. The

    guys were starving so we found a Subway, Ziggys favorite place to eat. We must have sat there

    at least a half hour talking and laughing (remember the fat librarian fat lady story) Im rather

    impressed with the two of them. Mike is quieter than Ziggy but I think most people will be

    quieter than he is (a lot of nervous energy) except for me of course! Ziggy says he is vain and

    self-confident. I found him to be comical and embarrassed a lot but have been nervous

    having some crazy American mom spend the day and interrogate him! But is was very nice

    meeting Marinas internet pals (thats the new pen-pal thing I guess) and seeing that they

    are nice, polite boys and NOT 45 year old pedophiles like weve been busting Marinas chops

    about!

    From Subway we went to the

    Central Train Station (there are two

    major stations in the city) because they

    werent sure when their trains were

    leaving. Turns out we had hour wait

    so for a few minutes let Marina sitprivately (as if one could be private at a

    central station) with her friends as I

    looked around the stations shops.

    After saying our good-

    byes we easily found our wayback to the Fraser. TIs getting

    much simpler finding our way

    around Glasgow and this is only

    day 2! Our map is already in

    shreds!

    Marina was in the mood

    for a pizza dinner, so we

    decided to walk in the

    neighborhood to see what we

    could find.

    Merchant City, the area where we are staying, is more or less the SOHO of Glasgow.

    Beautiful old buildings, markets and lofts have been gutted and converted into classy, attractive

    restaurants, cafes and shops.

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    Just around the

    corner from the hotel we

    stopped at Merchants

    Square. It is a lovely old

    building (once the home of

    the citys fruit market) which

    is ringed around by various

    eateries: Scottish, Italian,

    Indian, Steakhouse, and

    Spanish. Inside is a covered

    courtyard, ceiling adorned

    by tine white lights, and all

    the restaurants have

    outside seating inside.

    Marina tossed the pizza idea out the

    window when she saw a menu for the Spanishrestaurant El Sabor. So thats where we decided

    to eat because she wanted a Paella (of course

    forgetting, I suppose, that we were in Scotland NOT

    in Spain). Unfortunately, El Sabor (meaning the

    flavor in Spanish) lacked sabor. We ordered a tapa

    of tortilla (decent), a mixed salad (miniscule), and

    vegetarian paella which hardly even looked like a

    paella in color and consistency, let alone taste like

    one! We barely touched it! The bus-boy noticedand asked what we thought. Marina

    feels badly letting people know when

    something is disagreeable or

    disappointing, but I told him it certainly

    was not a paella like those in Spain. To

    which he commented that he knew he

    himself is from Valencia, he just started

    working at the restaurant, and although

    he cooks (his mom sends ingredientsfrom home) hes not the cook here.. He

    did say if we wanted good paella hed

    invite us! I replied that in a weeks time

    my Spanish husband could make me a

    wonderful paella, but thanked him

    kindly. Marina laughed when I pointed out how again I befriended a totally random person.

    That seems to amuse my daughters!

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    We returned to our room around 9:00 and suddenly

    Marina was frantic to share the events of the day (meeting the

    guys!) with someone other than me. Having free US calls on

    our calling card, she dialed home (to speak to Malka) and left a

    lengthy message before dinner and an even more desperate

    one after. She finally got in contact with her BIG little sister

    after Pepe called us back, and an hour later he had to hung up

    the phone on the girls. In the end, even though she got

    Kasfias #, she didnt call her friends and by 11:30 it was NO

    MORE PHONE CALLS and lights out!

    Sunday 4/12 Wow I slept well and woke up easily at 8:30 with the alarm. Marina,

    well, that was a different story. It was going on 11:00 by the time she was dressed and had a

    sip of juice and half a chocolate croissant. Our original plans were to just go shopping being as

    its Easter Sunday and we thought all but the mall would be closed. CHANGE OF PLANS. I called

    City Sightseeing Glasgow the double-decker hop-on-hop-off bus tour and found that not only

    were they running, but all museums were open as well. So,

    around 11 we left our room and headed to George Square,

    which, now that we know our way around, is a stones throw

    from the Fraser. We ran across the street and caught a bus just

    as it was pulling out. What a great deal this turned out to be.

    We saw the West End, the East End, the North and the South.

    We saw sites we didnt even know existed and easily reached

    places I had wanted to see. Our first stop was Peoples Palace

    and Winter Gardens which were just across the way from the

    Barras, our first stop yesterday.

    The Peoples Palace was

    built in 1898 for the working-

    class people of Glasgows East

    End. It is now a social history

    museum telling the story of the

    Glaswegians from 1750 to the

    present. It was very interestingand not at all boring. Outside

    the building is the Doulton

    Fountain. It is the largest

    terracotta fountain in the world

    and is topped with a figure of

    Queen Victoria.

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    After a nice visit to the museum, we again boarded the bus, sitting on the upper level.

    We have been so lucky with the weather. Again, NO RAIN, lots of bright sun (occasionally

    hiding behind clouds) and very mild (for Scotland) temperatures. Up on the bus it did get chilly

    with the wind, but the

    sights were spectacular.

    Glasgow is an amazingly

    well-preserved city!

    Our next stop was

    quite a distance away,

    one we certainly would

    never have walked, and

    thus affording us visits to

    otherwise unplanned

    stops. We got off at the

    Clyde Auditorium which

    is an Armadillo-likestructure that houses

    conventions and concerts. It is on the banks of the

    River Clyde which is spanned by a very interesting

    bridge (The Clyde Arc Bridge) nick-named the Wink.

    We walked along the river and crossed a

    foot bridge to the Science Center. It is

    another very modern structure and supposedly a

    great hands-on museum, but we opted to do moreout-door sights. So after taking a picture of

    Marina in front of a gate with one of her favorite

    physics formulas displayed (that ones for you Mr.

    Schorn!) we crossed the river again and walked to

    the Tall Ship, the Glenlee.

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    Marina was keen to visit the ship and so

    we did. The Glenlee, a 3-masted barque, is one

    of only 5 sailing ships still afloat to have

    originated from the River Clydes shipbuilding

    days. She was launched in 1896, went around

    the world 4 times, was bought by the Spanish

    Navy in 1921 and in 1992 was rescued from the

    scrap yard and brought back to Scotland. We

    spent about hour visiting the decks, betting a

    bit barfy on the lower one below the water

    level (even though the boat wasnt even

    moving, and basking in the sun on the upper

    deck.

    Once finished there, we awaited our

    tour bus, which conveniently comes to every

    stop at 20 minute intervals, and headed North

    to Glasgow University. Although we didnt getoff there (no time for everything!) the

    university

    architecture,

    and that of the amazingly impressive Kelvingrove Art

    Museum nearby, was nothing less than spectacular. We

    continued on the bus until we reached Renfrew Street, which

    is near the Synagogue. We walked up a very steep hill and

    actually found ourselves right next to the Temple. I had

    hoped it would be open so could take interior photos(something I couldnt do on Saturday/Shabbat) but the gate

    was locked. I think I heard a sigh of relief from Marina. I

    must say though, shes been a great sport, trekking around

    the city like a real trouper! So passing the Synagogue, we

    went down the hill on the other side, around the corner and

    towards the Tenement House (Museum). Thestoop next to theTenement House

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    On the first floor of a traditional tenement building is the former apartment of Miss

    Agnes Toward who lived there from 1911-1965. The house contained all her personal

    belongings and gives a good idea of what this type of living was like for many people of Glasgow

    (although she was middle-class and many other tenement-dwellers had far worse living

    conditions. Marina asked me to purchase the accompanying Tenement House Book (no photos

    allowed inside) so well learn more about it all when we can sit down and read. Being that

    today is Easter, and being that the girl who sold us our entrance tickets probably thought

    Marina was just a wee-one, there was an Easter-egg hung/quiz. She passed splendidly and was

    rewarded with a large Cadbury chocolate egg (which Ill probably devour without her help)

    which more or less (less really) makes up for the nearly $20 we spent to see the 4-room flat!

    We walked a bit more and stopped at the bus stop down the road from where we had

    gotten off. Oh yeah, on the way to the bus we passed the Glasgow School of Art (Architect

    Charles Rennie MacKintoshs architectural masterpiece). I wanted to go in for a tour, Marina

    was sight-seed-out and was pining for the internet caf, so hopefully well get back to this

    sight before we leave for America, although I somehow doubt it.

    We sat at the bus stop with two young Scot-guys who, to me, seemed more drunk or

    hung-over than not and who were not shy about talking about their drunk escapades while

    simultaneously dripping curry-sauce from some curry-on-potato-on-a roll concoction one was

    eating. Marina laments not taking a picture four our scrapbook-to-be.

    We took the bus back to the original stop and both agreed today was hugely successful.

    We made a b-line for the internet caf. Marina, being the brain that she is, had no difficulty

    putting the coins in the machine and getting her code, and Marina, being impatient, couldnt

    wait a minute to help her mum. The actual internet caf was closed (no helpers) today for the

    holiday, but accessible through Nero Caf (coffee shop) I didnt have exact change to buy m8iy

    internet minutes so first I purchased a good cup of coffee. Then I proceeded to take my change

    to the machine where I lost the pound-fifty because I

    didnt know what the hell I was doing and Marina was

    other-wise engaged on line. Oh well, I decided to leave

    well-enough-alone and write in my journal instead.

    For dinner we decided to try TGI Fridays

    (ohwe are eating SO SCOTTISHS this vacation). We

    tried yesterday but there was an hours wait. Tonightit was only hour, so we put our names down and

    took a stroll along Buchanan Street. It was the typical

    fare for Marina- Mozzarella sticks, but when we asked

    for tomato sauce, the pointed to Ketchup. Very British

    I suppose; that and the baked beans they served with

    the mozzarella sticks! Al in all though, much better

    dinner than the fancy-schmancy Spanish dinner last

    night!

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    To end a packed day of sight-

    seeing, after dinner we quickly stopped

    by our room dropped of some things and

    went right out again to the Sarmanka

    Kinetic Gallery /Theater for a 7:00 show.

    We had NO idea what it was we were

    going to see. We had looked for it on

    Friday and totally passed it by as the

    entrance was a grungy door of a grungy

    building with unobvious signage on a

    other-side-of the tracks-like street.

    Well, today we knew exactly where to go. Marina

    was still a bit freaked out about the location and at

    first didnt like the thought of having to ring a bell to

    get in. I think she felt better when she saw other

    people outside. We were buzzed into a mostcreepy-looking hallway and had to walk up a flight of

    horribly old and scary stairs with a metal-caged lift in

    the center. We had to then ring another doorbell

    and were let into a studio space packed with bizarre

    and some-what frightening/disturbing kinetic

    (moveable) sculptures.

    The word Sharmanka comes from the

    Russian word for hurdy-gurdy, a hand-cranked street

    organ / music box. The artist is a 70 year old Russian

    Jew who immigrated to Scotland 15 years ago.

    Some of these works date back to his Russian years,

    some more recent. They are

    composed of carved wooden

    figures and every assortment of

    junk, antiques, lights and

    motors and they are incredibly

    articulated. There was a rather

    impressive-sized crowd in this

    hidden treasure of Glasgow.

    When the show started, the

    lights dimmed and one by one

    the pieces whirred and came to

    life, accompanied by either

    haunting or melodic music.

    We, the audience, had to walk

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    around the darkened studio as each piece was

    individually illuminated and animated. I would

    not call it happy art, but it certainly was a uniquely

    impressive show of one mans sense of creativity.

    The show lasted about 45 minutes and when we

    got outside, it was still light for our short walkhome. What a great full day we had today, and

    now, 9 p.m., Marina is already in bed! Its up early

    tomorrow as we head to Glamis Castle.

    Marina as bug-eyed as this troll!

    Monday 4/13 For all her going to bed early, apparently Marina didnt fall asleep until

    1:00 a.m. and was no happy camper when the 7:30 alarm sounded. None-the-less, we were

    out in the streets by 8:10 heading towards the Queens Street Station to catch our 8:40 train.

    Marina gets to travel free (off peak or Holidays today was a bank holiday) on the rails beingthat shes a kid but even cuter was, due to the fact we shared a ticket and couldnt go

    through the turnstile, the station employee pointed me and my wee-one through another

    entrance. She actually called marina a wee-one!!!

    The train ride to Dundee was very easy. The train was comfortable, clean and with a

    table in front of us. The scenery was also very nice for the most part and we were able to see

    verdant pastures spotted with fluffy sheep. Ninety minutes after leaving Glasgow we arrived in

    Dundee. Now, prior to coming to Scotland, I had contacted Glamis Castle to find out about

    transportation there. I was told take the train to Dundee and then a bus, about hour trip, to

    the castle. We got to Dundee at 10:00 and it was damp and cold, kind of the weather we had

    been expecting but had luckily been avoiding. The cold was coming off the River Tay that was

    beside the station. Teeth chattering I asked a station attendant how to get to Glamis. The look

    he gave made me know this wouldnt be so easy. He said wed have to first get to the bus

    station (about a 5-10 minute walk) and then catch a bus (that he thought wouldnt leave until

    NOON, two hours away!) and then transfer to ANOTHER bus. That was not in my game-plan

    what-so-ever. Outside there were taxis lined up so I asked one driver how much it would be to

    the Castle. He politely pointed me to the first cab in the line, saying it was only right that I

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    asked that driver first. So I did. We were told the fare was 24 pound (about $36). What choice

    did we have? For two years Marina has been pining to see this one particular castle. It was

    now or never, so of course we hired the cab. The drive was lovely, through hills and fields, blue

    skies and green meadows. The driveway

    itself leading to the castle from the road

    was a mile long. I commented out loud

    that just to get back to the road to find a

    bus or cab would be a feat in itself, and

    then our lovely driver, Charlie, made us an

    offer: for 40 pound round trip hed

    actually wait for us while we visited the

    castle. That was a deal too good to pass

    up.

    We had arrived around 10:30 but

    the tour wouldnt begin for hour so

    Marina and I went to the gift shop wherewe had to purchase the obligatory, by

    Marina of course, Glamis Castle book!

    Shell probably never read it (like the

    tenement book) but I began to read it on

    the train back and it really covers

    everything we saw on the tour. Besides,

    taking photos inside the castle was prohibited.

    The tour lasted about 50 minutes and took us through maybe 10 rooms in this

    enormous castle. Some rooms were medieval, others were Victorian, and others dated to years

    in between. All in all, to me, it was just a castle

    and the day, with train, cab, entrance and book cost

    about $131, but if it was important to Marina..

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    Thats Charliein the taxi

    Charlie took us back to the

    train station and I gave him a nice

    tip (not customary here in Scotland)

    and after picking up a piece of rich

    chocolate cake at the coffee shop,

    we were back on the train at 12:52.

    Between Dundee and

    Glasgow there is another city,

    Stirling, which boasts a nice castle

    (our first cab driver told us about

    that one). I was game to stop on

    the way back but Marina nixed the

    idea. She wanted to shop in the city

    instead. So after getting back to the Queen Street Station, we spent some time at the mall and

    then again headed back down Buchanan Street, that wonderful, long, pedestrian strip.

    Marina still had about 45 minutes left on her internet ticket, so I dropped her at the caf

    instructing her NOT TO MOVE, and I headed down the street to the Willow Tea Room (a replica

    of MacKintoshs tea room across town) and then to The Lighthouse Scotlands Centre for

    Architecture, Design and the City. This second stop was actually very interesting and contains

    the MacKintosh Center with an overview of his work, history, art, design and architecture. The

    40 minutes I had (while Marina was on the computer) were not enough. So after verifying that

    I could come back in with my ticket, I literally ran down the block to the internet caf. Marina

    was a bit blue since her time was up and she was also tired, but we went back to the Lighthouse

    and stayed until nearly 5:00.

    The one glitch, or hiccup, in the day, which could have been disastrous is when I

    misplaced my pocketbook containing our money, bank card, credit cards, cash, phone card

    and key-card for our room. Being as the weather is unpredictable, weve been carrying coats

    AND sweatshirts all day, every day. Ive also carried a tote-bag which usually contains the

    sweatshirts and water, then my pocketbook which rests on top of the tote back but always has

    the strap around my arm, then a camera on my neck, in my coat pocket or in one of the bags

    and today, to top it off and make things worse, I also was carrying a souvenir bag containing

    shortbread, some sexy-guy-in-a kilt magnets for Marinas friends and a Scottish flag for Malka(ha-ha, inside joke). All day I was thinking how HORRIBLE it would be to lose my purse almost

    came true! The Lighthouse building was designed by MacKintosh in the late 1800s and was

    used to house the Herald Newspaper. It has a tower which can be accessed by a circular

    stairway going up at least 5 floors. Marina and I took a look at it and said, Nah no way are

    we climbing that! But it did make for an interesting photo looking up from the center. So, I

    put my stuff down to shoot the picture only to realize about 10 minutes later as we were

    getting ready to leave the building that my most important possession was missing. Of course,

    Marinas main concern was that the camera was gone! I sent her back to the tower to look as I

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    frantically ran down 3

    flights to the lobby

    where I had last taken

    my wallet out to pay

    for Marinas admission

    ticket. Luckily, Marina

    had found it where I

    thought it might be.

    Could have been a

    disaster had we

    actually left the

    building at 5:00 when

    it closed but from

    now on Im leaving at

    least 2 of my credit

    cards in the safe in the

    room! Is thisphotoworth losing a pocketbookover?

    The visit to this museum satisfied my MacKintosh quota and after seeing pictures and

    videos from his other sites, including the Glasgow School of Art, I no longer have the need to

    see them in person.

    Marina was getting hungry and again was in the mood for pizza, but when she saw

    McDonalds opted for a burger, fries and mozzarella sticks instead. Fine by me; I finally got

    some protein (she calls it fake protein)

    in the girl! We took a brisk walk back

    to our room and now, 6:47, she seems

    to be fast asleep for what she said

    would be a nap.

    And so ends day 4 in Scotland!

    Notice the Scottish flag with the Golden Arches

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    Tuesday April 14 We went to sleep at a decent hour and were up around 7:30 for a full

    day in Edinburgh. We caught the hotel shuttle to the train station. I almost felt guilty about

    not walking; pretty strange considering that back home we never walk anywhere! We arrived

    at the ticket window just in time to get the 8:30 train but since today is a work-day, in order for

    Marina to travel free, wed need to wait for the 9:15 train. Considering what transportation

    cost yesterday, I didnt stop to re-think a savings of $30 today, so we waited.

    Again, the train ridewas smooth and

    comfortable, but the sky

    was grey (uch ... and we left

    our sweat shirts in the

    room for the FIRST TIME

    today!) so it wasnt so nice

    to look out the window

    (Ive been writing the

    whole trip anyway.) At onepoint, Marina wanted to

    throw out her chewing

    gum. I gave her a piece of

    paper to put it in but (spaz)

    somehow it never made it into the paper. After looking on her pants and seat we figured it

    must be on the floor somewhere! 40 minutes into the trip she discovered the gum sticking her

    shirt-sleep to her arm. Genius!

    Okay, we finished a busy day in Edinburg and since we bought an off-peak ticket werent

    able to take the 5:30 train home. No big deal (at least for me because I can now write about

    the day) but Marina is moping. Ive given her the Edinburgh Castle book (yeah, we bought yet

    another book!) to occupy her time until our 6:30 train.

    Today really was the first day where the sun didnt shine for more than a few minutes,

    the one day I didnt wear a scarf or a sweatshirt (I thought layering THREE shirts would be

    enough NOT!) ITs the first day Marina put on her knit hat Ive been carrying around, so, as

    soon as I had the chance, I bought a wool scarf (smells like a farm and sheep piss but did the job

    and kept me warm) and a cap that says Scotland with a little flag (Ill gift it to Marcus) but also

    says made in China!

    We found our way to the tour bus here and boarded at Waverley Bridge just down the

    road from the station. We opted to sit inside for todays tour. Edinburgh is a city very different

    than Glasgow. It is very large (it is, after all, the capital of the country) and much more modern.

    There are a great deal of very large buildings, much more grandiose in scale to the majority of

    those in Glasgow. And the sites are much more spread out.

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    Last night, after reading about the city in our Frommers Tour book, we decided to focus

    our attention on two major sites: Edingburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, both on

    extreme opposite ends of the city from each other.

    At first we had thought wed stay on the bus for the entire loop, but when we say how

    large the city was, we got off at stop #7 (out of 12) and visited the castle.

    The castle is located on the top of an impressive hill, Castle Rock, the remnants of agreat volcano formed 340 million years ago, which makes the castle so impressive and a perfect

    site for a fortress rising 134 meters about sea

    level. It is surrounded by medieval cobbled

    streets filled with loads of tourist shops and

    pubs. The castle covers many years and much

    history and is more fortress-like, with auxiliary

    buildings, than Glamis Castle which was more

    residential (at least the parts we saw. In the

    Middle Ages it became Scotlands chief royalcastle. Throughout the centuries various

    additions and buildings were added. Today, in

    addition to walking around, taking in spectacular

    view of the city below and the formidable

    architecture, inside we saw: the Great Hall (16th

    century), the Royal Palace (15th century), the

    Scottish National War Memorial (18th century)

    and exhibit on the Honours (Crown Jewels) of

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    Scotland: the crow, the scepter, the sword which after learning the history were amazing to

    see!, an exhibit on prisoners of war kept in the castle and we witnessed the firing of the 1:00

    gun which is fired from the castle daily (except Sundays, Good Friday and Christmas). Within

    the castle walls are many more museums that we passed up.

    From there we started walking down the

    Royal Mile which is the old shop-lined street. We

    went in search of the perfect memento, but I justbought a box of Edinburgh Rock which is a candy

    indigenous to the place. For lunch we had fish n

    chips and I had asked for a free sample of the

    traditional dish, Haggis (made of sheep stomach and

    guts and G-d knows what else!) I guess they forgot

    about that part of the order and I must say, Im a bit

    relieved! The caf was in a weaving mill, so we were

    able to see how the tartan fabric is woven (for all

    the kids and uniforms that all Scottish castle/palaceemployees seem to wear!) We also stopped at St.

    Giles Church while waiting for the bus.

    We took the bus and went to the other side of

    the city to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Its location

    is very interesting. In front of it is the Scottish House of Parliament, a very UGLY modern

    building designed by a Spanish architect (it was really hideous!). To the side is an ultra-modern

    cocoon-shaped building which houses Our Dynamic Earth a new museum about the Earth??

    The backdrop to that is the Holyrood Park and the incredible Salisbury Crags, great cliffs

    covered in lush green (many people were actually walking up!) and beyond that, Arthurs Seat

    (at 823 feet) which is supposedly a blow hole for the volcano. So the palace is a big contrast to

    its surroundings.

    Palace Gate &

    Salisbury Crags

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    With the price of admission we were given an audio guide which proved to be very good and

    useful. We did NOT buy the book and afterwards Marina said we should have because I

    believe, this was her favorite sit of all. Oh well The Palace was established by King James IV

    at the beginning of the 16th century and is next to the ruins of an Abby founded in 1128. The

    audio tour took us through many rooms with beautiful wood-paneled walls, intricate plaster

    ceilings, fabulous tapestries, and ornate furniture, led us outside to the ruins of the Abby and

    into the palace gardens. This palace is still

    frequented by the Queen of England but

    luckily, she was out of town today or we

    wouldnt have had this great experience.

    In front of thepalace In the garden beside the Abbywith Arthurs Seat behind

    By the time we finished there and caught the bus, it was already 4:30 (most places close

    at 5:00) so we went back to stop #1, ran to the tourist info office where I got Marina a Scotland

    (what else!) tote bag for her to carry her books next year (I swear, I think this years physics

    notebook wont fit!) and then she wanted more McDonalds protein!! (Who am I to deny her

    that?) And then it was 5:30 and as I previously wrote, we had to wait an hour for an off-peak

    train.

    Once back in Glasgow we RAN through the streets to get back to tcatch tonights 7:30

    installment of EastEnders.. And we did, maybe only missing a minute or two! Now Im sitting in

    the nice lobby of the hotel with a good cup of coffee, being banished from our room. Marina

    wanted to call Ziggy but cant talk with me in the room. A few minutes ago, phone call

    complete, she came to get me and when I asked about tomorrows plans uh-oh they

    hadnt made anything concrete! Kids!!! Okay, coffee is finished as well as todays journal entry

    so upstairs I go! Yikes, tomorrow is our last full day in Scotland!

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    Wednesday 4/15 Today is a grey day in weather and in mood. I set the alarm for 8:20

    since we had planned to stay local, but was awakened before then when I heard Marina taking

    a shower. She was up before me thats a first!!! (Turns out, later she confessed, she was

    anxious about seeing the boys again today) She called her friends to confirm the days plans

    and upon finding out that theyd be here between 1 and 2:00, we headed out towards the

    internet caf. On the way, we accomplished all last minute shopping (Pepe, Malka & Marcus,

    mission accomplished, a shirt for Marina, got candy for Marinas friends on the way back). Of

    course, when it came to me well, I might have to go back to the shops later on my own. I did

    buy myself a Turkish Delight candy, wrapped in its bright purple foil, because I was so fond of

    this sweet 30+ years ago. I cant recall what it HAD tasted like or WHY I loved it so, it has an

    interesting perfume flavor to it, but Im saving the wrapper for old-times sake!

    At the internet caf, we each purchased 2 hours of time. I hadnt been on since last

    Friday (basically 5 days of mail to sort through) so it actually took me longer than Marina since

    it was only about 5 a.m. in the US and none of her friends were awake and her Scottish friends

    were on their way to visit her. After an hour there, we picked up a burger for Marina and now

    were just hanging about waiting. Oh!!!! The phone just rang, the mates are here. Time togo

    It is now about 7:30 p.m. and we are back at the internet caf. It was supposed to have

    closed a few minutes ago but Marina is still typing away. I dont know what time it was when

    the guys showed up, but it seems that they actually arrived to Glasgow EARLY today and spent a

    few hours walking around or riding the elevator up and down in the mall??? In addition to

    Ziggy and Mike, Stu and Billy tagged along today as well (Marina didnt know Billy at all, and had

    only once spoken to Stu.) No one had any plans (and I wasnt going to drag them around

    touring again since Ive seen about all there is to see walking distance) so we headed towards

    the St. Enochs Mall which Marina and I had not yet seen. These malls look so big from the

    outside, but have so few stores

    inside.

    On an aside: I must say,

    the clothes displayed

    throughout the city are so

    attractive and there seems to

    be a lot of high end fashion.

    People are also really nicely puttogether (the girls), doing

    themselves up well and with

    funky hair styles that caught

    Marinas eye. People dont just

    have long straight boring hair

    like we see back home. What is eye-catching is mod and colorful (a lot of pink, real red, blue,

    purple hair in adorable cuts! Maybe because we are in the city Okay, back to the day.

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    I let the kids walk ahead of me or behind me and then I left them in the food court while

    I explored (not much to see but my feet started aching form my boots) When I got bored in the

    mall, I told them I wanted to go back to Primark, the store we had been in earlier in the day. AS

    I shopped there, the kids went across the street to a music store and shortly thereafter, they

    came back looking for me. By now Ziggy was passing out from exhaustion (he had been on the

    computer until 5:30 a.m. and his friends showed up at his house a bit later!) so we went back to

    the mall to get him some coffee. After a brief stop

    there, we

    went back

    to our

    room.

    Oneofmy

    stalker

    pictures

    of Ziggy

    Billy Ziggy Marina (wee-one) Stu Mike

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    We agreed to walk the boys part-way

    back to Central Station and then wed head

    up Buchanan Street to the internet caf,

    but we were all so engrossed in

    conversation that we over-shot the mark

    and ended up by the station. Marina

    handled the good-byes better than I had

    expected. I was more moved by the

    near-conclusion of our vacation.

    Marina and Ziggy by the Station.

    Mom,whydidnt you get closer?

    Marina,you didnt even ASK me to take a

    pictureIwas being nice and thoughtful!

    We strolled back to the internet caf to finish

    off the day and as many minutes as we could prior

    to the 7:20 closing. Considering this is a major city,

    it is striking how things close down so early stores

    are shut around 5!

    Back in our room we tidied up, packed and

    went to bed early.

    Marina being contemplative

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    Thursday 4/16 We woke up early even though we had nothing planned other than to

    take a walk to a bakery to pick up a muffin for Marinas breakfast, use the last 20 minutes we

    each had on the internet and see where the morning would take us.

    I had reserved the shuttle to the airport for

    noon. During the morning walk, I noticed the Center

    of Modern Art but it wasnt going to open until 10:00

    and it was only 9:00. When we finished on line, I

    walked Marina BACK to the hotel and then walked

    BACK to the museum where I spent about an hour.

    The weather was again overcast, windy and cold

    today. Now were sitting on the airplane taxiing

    down the runway as we head towards London and

    then home, and the SUN IS SHINING BRIGHTLY! The

    sun came in with us last week and will see us off as

    we leave Scotland.

    What a great trip it

    was!