sake is the national drink of japan. since rice is … to the kozaemon world...1 sake is the...

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1 Sake is the national drink of Japan. Since rice is important to Japan, the making of sake by rice has become very precious. In the history of Japan, not only have people drunk sake but it is also used for spiritual ceremony for thousands of years. The traditional sake brewing method has been established through the history and today brewers are still using many methods that have been used for centuries with help of the god of sake that is also living in us.

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Page 1: Sake is the national drink of Japan. Since rice is … to the Kozaemon World...1 Sake is the national drink of Japan. Since rice is important to Japan, the making of sake by rice has

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Sake is the national drink of Japan. Since rice is important to

Japan, the making of sake by rice has become very precious. In

the history of Japan, not only have people drunk sake but it is

also used for spiritual

ceremony for thousands of

years. The traditional

sake brewing method has

been established through

the history and today

brewers are still using

many methods that have been used for centuries with help of the god of sake that

is also living in us.

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There are about 1300 sake breweries in Japan. Since 1881, about 130 years ago, when 26,826

breweries exist, the number is getting smaller and smaller every year while big companies

are dominating the sake making now. Differently from those huge companies, small sake

brewers which are called “Jizake” brewers (also called micro or boutique brewers); exist

only to make passionate sake.

Kozaemon is just a small sake brewery in mountainous area of the Gifu prefecture, the

middle of Japan. Mizunami, our town and at one time was at the bottom of the sea in the

ancient period. The water through the soil is soft and affluent. Mizunami means rice ear’s

wave. It is called as if the rice ears were

waving by winds. It is very hot in the

summer, and very cold in winter with a few snowfalls.

The brewing history of Kozaemon is over 300 years, originated in 1702.

With the help of high quality rice and water, and brewer’s passion for

a challenge to make sake special, kozaemon has survived.

The rich sophisticated taste is totally incomparable.

Not only domestically but internationally Kozaemon is highly regarded.

From 2007, we are exporting to over 8 countries. Now, you can drink

it in UK、France, Germany, Sweden, China, Hong Kong, USA, and Australia,

in 2009.

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Rice used for Sake is different from the ordinary rice that we eat.

Rice for Sake is much bigger and has white core in the middle and not very tasty to eat.

Many crossbreeding of rice types over the last century has been made sake even more diverse & unique.

Needless to say, rice is of the upmost important to Sake brewing. Furthermore, to find

particular rice suits for our water and style is critical. So, we directly make contract with

each rice farmer all over Japan in order to make “face to face” relationships.

Types of rice we use are as follows:

Yamadanishiki, Aiyama, Yumenishiki (Hyogo Pref.), Omachi Bizen and Akaiwa (Okayama Pref.),

Hattan 35 (Hiroshima Pref.),

Gohyakumangoku (Toyama Pref.), Miyamanishiki (Nagano Pref.), Mizunaminishiki (Gifu Pref.

using Yamadanishiki), Mizunamimai(Gifu).

At the time of founding, all rice was made in our town, Mizunami. So, we are trying to make

Mizunami rice once again by ourselves. Actually, Mizunamimai is partly made on site by our brewers. Also, we are

trying to make organic rice sake. Already, Miyamanishiki in Nagano Pref. has been made by organic method. It will

be the new direction of Kozaemon.

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On the Outside of Sake rice, there are proteins and fats that need to be removed.

The rice is milled in order to remove the unwanted outer layers where protein and fat are contained.

By milling, the core center of Sake rice, called “Shinpaku”, remains.

The degree of milling ratio depends on what taste you want for the sake. Low milling ratio rice creates richer taste

with full of sweet, sour, hot, bitter, and astringent. It deeply reflects the taste of rice. On the other hand, high

milling ratio rice creates more slender flavor and fragrance. Originality of yeast appeals more beside the rice itself.

The milling rate (polishing ratio) indicates several types of sake such as Daiginjo-shu, and Ginjo-shu.

In the case of Kozaemon, the definition of sake based on milling rates is as follows;

Type of sake based on rice milling rate

normal definition Kozaemon

Daiginjo at least 50%

(at least 50% of rice is polished away) 35%-40%

Ginjo at least 60%

(at least 40% of rice is polished away)

50%

Junmai no alcohol is added 35-90%

Honjozo

at least 70%

(at least 30% of rice is polished away),

and distilled alcohol is added

70%

Unpolished rice 50% polished

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Unpolished

Rice

Polished

Rice

Steamed

Rice

Koji

(Mold)

Moromi

(Mash)

Moto or

Shubo

(Yeast

Starter)

Sake

Brewing Process

Rice milling Washing, Soaking

& Steaming

Fermentation

Pressing

Fermentation

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After milling, rice is washed and soaked. The purpose of washing is to remove

rice bran (white powder), and that of soaking is to let the rice absorb the

water.

Washing is called as “second milling”, because

rice is rubbed each other. Appropriate dehydrate

is essential to make qualified steam rice.

In these processes, time keeping is very

important in order to contain the correct amount

of water. So, it is usually stopwatch-measured.

The time depends on the daily temperature, water

temperature, humidity, and milling rate of the

rice. Quality of rice is different every year.

So, time must be considered carefully every year.

Washing and soaking could determine the taste

and character of Sake at the very beginning.

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After soaking, next process is steaming. In a

special big steamer, called Koshiki, rice is

dry-steamed for about 50-90 minutes. The time is

determined by milling rate and absorbability of

rice. The temperature is 101 to 105 degrees.

The steaming way is quite different from the

table rice boiling. The rice must be steamed in

a way that results in a firm outer surface and

soft inner core.

One day of a brewing worker

3:30 Boiler switch on

4:00 Mix the Moromi & Shubo

Prepare for analyzing

5:00 Breakfast

6:00 Pick up the steamed rice

7:00 Clean up equipments

8:00 Koji Making

9:30 Analyze or cleaning

11:00 Rice washing

12:00 Lunch

13:00 Napping time

15:00 Put the rice into steamer

16:00 Mix the Moromi & Shubo

Prepare for the next day

18:00 Check the Koji

19:00 Dinner

21:00 Check the Koji

24:00 Check the Koji

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Koji making is sensitive work. This is the

heart of the entire brewing process.

Rice for Koji is put in the best position of

steamer. Then, Koji mold is sprinkled on the

steamed rice. In order to develop koji, high

temperature and certain humidity is required,

and special care is needed until the koji is

developed. At this point, visible white mold is not most

important. What important the most is enzyme created by

growing mold. Therefore, the

room must be dry so that the

enzyme will develop into the

moist center of rice. The

enzyme will break down the starch of the rice into grape

sugar.

The koji making room called Muro is the hottest place

in a sake brewery. The temperature is about 34 degree

beside the outside is 0 degree or below.

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Koji and steamed rice are mixed in small tank. This mixture is called Shubo (Yeast

starter).

There are two types of Shubo; Sokujo, and Kimoto type. In the case of Sokujo which

is mainly used in recent Japan, Shubo is kept in the tank for 2 weeks. It is the

process by which adding prepared lactic acid and yeast, and the period of

fermentation goes fast. On the other hand, Kimoto type is the traditional way. Compare to Sokujo,

it takes 2 weeks more until the natural lactic acid is created.

In the case of Sokujo, Kohbo (yeast) is added with lactic acid into the Shubo, and then, the Yeast

changes grape sugar into

alcohol and carbon dioxide. In Shubo, alcohol

goes up to 11% only.

There are many kinds of Kobo.

Sake associations

prepare variety of Kobo

for brewery. Though,

original kobo which lives

in brewery still exists.

It is called wild Kobo.

2 weeks 4weeks

Fermentation increasing yeast Lactic acid fermentation

2weeks

Fermentation increasing yeast

Add lactic acid and

yeast Sokujo Type

Kimoto Type

Omit

Start!

Start!

yeast

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After Shubo is moved into a larger tank, more rice, koji, and water are added. This mixture is called Moromi (mush).

Moromi is again moved to much larger tank with extra rice, koji, and water after several days. Amount of Moromi is

getting larger by this process. This fermentation process, unique to the brewing

of Sake, is known as “multiple parallel fermentation”. The most widely applied

method of adding rice, koji, and water to the moromi is called “Sandan shikomi”.

It means three-stage process. For example, the amount of rice and water of one

particular Kozaemon is listed below.

It creates over 2000 liter of Sake in a tank.

During the fermentation, accurate temperature control is necessary. Only 0.5

degree makes difference. Besides temperature, many other factors are measured

and adjusted couple of hours.

Kozaemon Tokubetsu-Junmai Miyamanishiki

shubo 1st 2nd 3rd total

1st day 3rd day 4th day

rice(kg) steamed 50 105 220 510 885

koji 20 40 65 90 215

water(l) 77 140 350 970 1707

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After 24 to 35 days, the moromi has reached 16 to 20% alcohol content. When fragrance,

taste, and everything is right, Toji, the head brewer of a brewery, decides that it

is the time the sake is now pressed. The white lees (Kasu) are pressed away, and clear

jewelry clear Sake runs off. The taste of the first sake is fresh and energetic.

In the case of Kozaemon, “Jikagumi” is unique to our brewery. It is taken from a

reformed pressing machine. By bottling just after press, without air touch, light

sparkling taste of “Jikagumi” is made and kept. It is so special that makes everyone

surprise. Also, traditional “Tobindori”, the way putting Moromi in canvas bags and

dripping out without pressure, is still used. It takes time, but taste is very delicate,

mild, and sophisticated.

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Most of the pressed sake are pasteurized and are kept in tanks for several months to years. The timing of bottling

and shipping is determined by constant tasting of staff members. Until that, sake is kept under certain temperature

depend on each type. Each sake has its own ideal temperature for keeping from -8 to 5 C. Some sake requires room

temperature. For aging, accurate temperature control is important. We believe that storage is important as much as

the sake making itself.

Now, we are making about 15 types of Kozaemon sake, and 3 types of Kozaemon liquor made by fruits. You can get these

not only in Japan, but also in the world. World famous restaurants serve Kozaemon.

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Nakashima Brewing Co., Ltd.

It was in the middle of Edo period. In 1702, the founder, the first Kozaemon

Nakashima who was ordered to cultivate the lands along Toki River, started

sake brewing. The purpose was to raise the value of rice grown here. This

sake was enjoyed by local people for a long time.

Thanks to the predecessors, we released new brand called “Kozaemon” in

2001, to present more enjoyable sake to more people.

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We believe that our brewing must be passed on next

century. For that, examination of raw materials is

important. We visit every farm even if it is far away

and keep contacts to every farmer so that we can

deliver their passion. In the near future,

percentage of organic materials will be much bigger.

We believe social contribution considering the

environments is important.

Good water, Good rice, Good people, these words are

written in the left picture. To develop these three

is crucial for sake brewing. Also, we are earnestly

hoping customer’s peace and happiness through our

sake. For that, we are doing our best every day.

Now, we strictly limit the Kozaemon sellers to

either Local Sake specialty shops which can create

human relationships with us, or high class

restaurants and hotels. We promise to deliver

Kozaemon to you and make your life much happier.

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Today, a few huge national brand Sake makers have big share of sake marketing.

For example, the most selling Sake maker has over 300 employees and produces 27,000,000ℓ

per year

Some of local brewers are also getting bigger and produce about 900,000ℓ

On the other hand, number of small brewer is getting smaller and smaller.

They are forced to close down the brewery.

Last year, we produced just 113,400ℓ with only three workers.

Yet, we still believe that being a small local brewer is meaningful.

Small brewer doesn’t have huge equipments, so that manufacture is usually required.

Also, there are lots of microbes which cannot be measured scientifically. These microbes

make sake incomparably unique.

Convinced brewing creates convinced sake. We believe this is our identity.

Kozaemon limits the production amount up to 360,000ℓ, because of our policy to keep good

materials and to maintain the “face to face relationships” with Kozaemon sellers. We sell

Kozaemon to well known counterparts only. We think that quality control and products

instruction are necessary.

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Sake is often served with meals. So, we believe that sake enjoyed with meal is important. We are making various Sake,

such as Daiginjo, Yamahai, Yuzu, and Ume liquor. The way and situation of drinking is determined in each sake.

We are working carefully over and over in order to make special sake which touches people’s heart deeply. Our staffs

are all in 30’s. We have 300 years of history but we still have a big passion and vision for the future. We are willing

to grow, and will grow for sure. We wish you understand our vision and work along with us!