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Scenic Route Vol.1 / No. 3 Water and wildlife merge to create a tranquil tapestry in the Florida Everglades “Here are no lofty peaks seeking the sky, no mighty glaciers or rushing streams wearing away the uplifted land. Here is land, tranquil in its quiet beauty, serving not as the source of water, but as the last receiver of it. To its natural abundance we owe the spectacular plant and animal life that distin- guishes this place from all others in our country.” — President Harry S. Truman, December 6, 1947 River of Grass By Greg Gerber ROUTE 66 Road Trip

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�Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

Water and wildlife merge to create a tranquil tapestry in the Florida Everglades

“Here are no lofty peaks

seeking the sky, no mighty

glaciers or rushing streams

wearing away the uplifted

land. Here is land, tranquil

in its quiet beauty, serving

not as the source of water,

but as the last receiver of it.

To its natural abundance we

owe the spectacular plant

and animal life that distin-

guishes this place from all

others in our country.”

— President Harry S. Truman, December 6, 1947

River of Grass

By Greg Gerber

ROUTE 66 Road Trip

aze across the grassy waterways that dominate these vast, verdant wet-lands and it’s clear how little has changed since the

southern tip of Florida was first designated as the Everglades National Park. In dedication ceremonies, President Harry S. Truman described this land as “tranquil in its quiet beauty.” Today, his words still stand the test of time. Encompassing more than 1.5 million acres, the Everglades remains one of the world’s most diverse nature preserves — a sharp contrast to much of Florida’s bus-tling tourist industry, and readily acces-sible to RVers. “There is no place in Europe with a park this big,” said Heinz Asmuss, a native of Germany who immigrated to America years ago and now RVs full time with his wife. “There are countries in Europe small-er than the Everglades National Park.” The park clings to the state’s south-ernmost lip — 2,358 square miles of cypress forests, grassy sloughs, freshwater prairies and murky estuaries that comprise a unique habitat for an array of native wildlife. So sweeping is its reach, so unique its composition, that driving into the Everglades National Park feels like traveling to a land before time. Nearly completely flat — its highest ele-vation is only 10 feet — the Everglades resembles an African plain, with wildlife and fauna unlike anything most Americans would ever find in their own backyards. Here, you’ll find hundreds of rare spe-cies, ranging from the nearly extinct Florida panther and West Indian manatee to “el lagarto,” Spanish for “the lizard,” which aptly describes the alligators lurking beneath swamp water

or basking in the morning sun.

People from around the world are drawn to study the Everglade’s unique marshland ecology, said the Flamingo campground concessions manager, who prefers to go by “just Danny.” It’s not uncommon to bump into a fam-ily from Germany, college students from Brazil or Canadian snowbirds. The fact there is ample space for everyone makes the Everglades a restful escape from the hustle of Florida’s primary tourism industry.

Traveling the Tamiami Trail Coming from the west, there are two ways to reach the Everglades. The first is along the famed Alligator Alley, also known as Interstate 75, a toll road which connects Naples to Fort Lauderdale. Zipping along at 70 mph won’t give you much chance to take in scenery, but it will get you to the park faster. Be sure and gas up before leaving Naples because the next station is more than 50 miles away. Looking for a more leisurely approach? Try the Tamiami Trail along Highway 41. While the

speed limit is slower, there are places for RVers to pull off the road to rest, take pictures, fish or watch nature. Be wary, however, as experienced RVers say there’s always a possibility an alligator will mosey onto the road. The Tamiami Trail follows the northern border of Everglades National Park and cuts through the middle of Big Cypress. Leaving Naples, the Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve lies adjacent to the west-ern border of the Big Cypress National Preserve, where a 2,000-foot-long board-walk winds through old growth cypress swampland. Trails along century-old logging tram roads also provide access to the state’s larg-est stand of native royal palms and is home to rare species of bromeliads and orchids. Located at Everglades City, in the north-west corner of the park, the Everglades’ Gulf Coast Visitor Center is a gateway to Ten Thousand Islands, a maze of man-grove islands and waterways that extends south to the Flamingo campground and Florida Bay. A 90-minute boat trip provides an excellent perspective of this saltwater eco-system, and you’re likely to spot a mana-tee, dolphin or osprey. In the heart of the “river of grass” that stretches 100 miles from Lake Okeechobee to the Gulf of Mexico, the Shark Valley Visitor’s Center lies halfway between Naples and Homestead. Wildlife abounds here in a freshwater ecosystem of saw grass

�Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

GROUTE 66 Road Trip

don’t forget

Insect repellentSun hat

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ROuTE 66 Regional ROUTE 66 RV Network Dealers:

Bates RV Exchange4656 McIntosh Road

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Leisure Time RV14100 W. Colonial DriveWinter Garden, FL 34787

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Leisure Time RV1012 S. Hopkins Ave.Titusville, FL 32780

321-636-7742

Tri-Am RV Center5441 N.E. Jacksonville Road

Ocala, FL 34479352-732-6269

Above: The Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center serves as the gateway to Everglades National Park. Stop here for maps, park information and schedules for ranger-led activities. Left: The shad-ed boardwalk at Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve leads deep within a mangrove swamp for an up-close view of nature.

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marsh and tree islands. A paved tram road into the marsh allows you to view alligators and the endangered snail kite. You may walk or bike the short trails. A two-hour narrated tram ride provides an overview of the freshwater Everglades for $13.25 per adult and $8 for children. Bicycles are available to rent for $5.75 an hour.

Encountering the Everglades About 30 minutes from Shark Valley, RVers can merge onto the Florida turnpike for a quick trip to Homestead. Exiting the turnpike onto u.S. Highway 1, stop at the Super Wal-Mart to stock up on groceries, gas and supplies before maneuvering a short distance to Highway 9336, which leads to the park’s main entrance. Be sure to visit Robert Is Here fruit stand to

sample a variety of fresh vegetables and tropical fruits and try a Key Lime milkshake. As you enter the Everglades, take time to check out the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center, pick up a map

and chat with a guide. The center will also have the most up-to-date schedules regarding ranger-guided activities and campground avail-ability. Admission to the park is just $10 for seven days.

It’s relatively easy to find camping spaces at the Everglades National Park, even during peak season. Camping is a bargain at $14 for a regular site, but visits are lim-ited to just 14 days from Nov. 1 to

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Keep a watchful eye when driving through the Everglades. You never know when you’ll encounter a critter strolling along the road.

ReadeR InquIRy #104 �Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

The beaches of the Atlantic Ocean and Gulf of Mexico provide a relaxing refuge and one of the best opportunities for seashell gathering in the United States.

April 30. Site hopping is allowed, but camping may

not exceed 30 days during a single year. Don and Pauline Campbell

have camped in the Everglades several times this year already. They like the park for its intense quiet and cleanliness. Long Pine Key campground is just seven miles from the main entrance. It features 108 drive-up sites, rest-rooms, water, a sewer dump station with fresh water fill, but no showers or electrical hookups. Flamingo campground is located 32 miles away at the end of the main park road. It has 234 drive-in sites,

including 55 with a view of Florida Bay. Cold-water shower facilities

are located at Flamingo, but water temperatures gen-erally don’t get above 80

degrees. Limited groceries and camping supplies are avail-

able at the Flamingo Marina and there are two dump stations with fresh water hookups. Pets are allowed in campsites but not permitted on any trail — alliga-tors may view Fido as a delicacy.

Wild for wildlife Everglades National Park is home to more than 350 different bird spe-cies, including wading birds, land birds and birds of prey. You’re likely to see the long-legged white ibis nearly everywhere and the great egrets routinely stalk fish in shallow waters. Late at night, the hooting of the barred owl can be heard for miles. Due to its temperate climate, the Everglades hosts migrating birds from around the world. The best time for bird watching is November to March.

But the most unforgettable Everglades resident is surely the alligator. Measuring up to 17.5 feet and weighing nearly 600 pounds, alligators in the Everglades are sur-prisingly accepting of people. In the Royal Palm trail area, alligators frequently meander onto the path to sun themselves before awestruck tourists. Rangers remind guests that alligators can run up to 30 mph for short distances. Stay at least 6 feet away and you shouldn’t have to worry about those powerful jaws. Be warned: While alligators are active year-round, they’re par-ticularly amorous from mid-April through May. “One of the first nights we were in the Everglades we woke up hear-ing this godawful noise and real-ized it was alligators barking,” said RVer Bill Bunting. “It sounded like heavy equipment moving in the distance.” Gator gazing can be especially intriguing at night. As tempera-tures cool, they grow more active and their reflective eyes make for eerie encounters.

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Chances abound to observe the Everglades’ most famous resident: the alligator. Stay at least 6 feet away and they’re content to bask in the sun as you snap their photos, rangers say.

Don and Pauline Campbell are experienced at setting up camp-sites in the Everglades. The Canadian couple have visited the park several times already this year. Their advice: A screen room makes the outdoors more enjoyable and bug-free.

Campsites are readily available at the Everglades National Park and, for those willing to brave the summer heat, the sites are free. Other camp-sites may be found along the Florida Keys, such as the Sunshine Key RV Resort and Marina in Big Pine Key.

The majestic bald eagle can often be seen perched atop a tree, scanning nearby fields or swamps for a meal.

“When it’s really dark, you can take a flashlight along the Anhinga Trail and shine it over the water and see hundreds of glowing eyes staring back at you,” said Campbell. “They start feeding at dusk and it’s amazing to watch them snap at each other or leap out of the water to grab some unsuspecting animal prey.”

Wilderness waterways With 156 miles of wilderness waterways within its boundaries, canoeing and kayaking are among the park’s biggest draws. In fact,

many marine areas and shallow estuaries can be navigated only by paddleboats. Canoes can be rented at the Flamingo Marina and the Gulf Coast Visitor Center for $22 per half day to $40 for a 24-hour period. Rangers recommend that you bring 1 gallon of water per person and wear a long-sleeved shirt and pants for sun and insect protection. Paddlers incur a $3 launch fee that offers unlimited opportunity over a seven-day period. The Wilderness Waterway is a

11Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

Visitors to the Royal Palm trail area watch an alligator make its way under the boardwalk. Shining a flashlight at night along the water’s edge is an eerie experience as you’ll find dozens of glowing eyes stare back at you.

good eats, great sites:- Theater of the Sea Marine Mammal Adventure Park and

Tropical Gardens, Islamorada, (305) 664-2431- Monkey Jungle, Miami, (305) 235-1611- Everglades Alligator Farm, Homestead, (305) 247-2628- Biscayne National Underwater Park, Homestead, (305)

230-1100- Robert Is Here fruit stand, Homestead, (305) 246-1592- Everglades Safari Park airboat rides and eco-adventure

tours, Tamiami Trail, (305) 226-6923- Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, Key Largo, (305)

852-7717- Florida Keys Wild Bird Center, Tavernier, (305) 852-4486- Keys Fisheries Market, Marathon, (866) 743-4353

The Scoop on Skeeters Tropical mosquitoes are a different breed. Here are tips from experienced Everglades explorers to help deter them, especially during July and August — peak mosquito season.• Avoid wearing dark colors. Mosquitoes are attracted

to dark colors.• If you stop to take pictures, roll up your car win-

dows. If you forget and find your car flooded with insects, turn your air-conditioner to high power to slow them down.

• Avoid flowery-smelling soap, shampoo or perfume, which can linger for up to a week after use.

• Insect repellents containing DEET work for nearly 80 percent of visitors. Try switching repellents; reapply every few hours.

• Hide the Yard Fogger. Fogging for insects on park property is prohibited. Not only could the chemical kill insects, but it could also injure birds who feed on them.

12Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

Florida Keys: Laid-back and legendary

A trip to the Florida Keys offers one of the most spectacular ocean drives in America with breathtaking vistas: emerald-green lagoons, deep-blue seas, nod-ding palms and rustling pines. Often called the nation’s longest bridge, the 125-mile series of bridges connects a strand of islands between Homestead and Key West. Getting there is easy. U.S. Highway 1 may be tack-led by RVs of every size. Traveling speeds rarely rise above 45 mph. With stops, plan on the trip taking about five hours. Consider spending the night in one of the waterfront camping sites available in public and private campgrounds. Once you reach Key West, it’s a good idea to park your rig and hop aboard a taxi, tour train or tram to navigate the narrow streets. Parking comes at the premium price of $12 per hour per space downtown — and you’ll need several hours to take in these popular sites: • Southernmost Point of the Continental United States

– This bullet-shaped steel and concrete monument makes for great pictures and you’ll meet people from every country on earth.

• Harry S. Truman’s Little White House — The former

president’s home-away-from-home continues to play a key role in hosting negotiations among the United States and other nations.

• Ernest Hemingway’s Home — Located near the heart

of Old Town, you can visit the rooms and gardens that inspired one of America’s most beloved authors.

• Shipwreck Historeum Museum — History comes

alive in this animated tour that combines actors, films and real artifacts from the Isaac Allerton, which sank in 1856 in a treacherous Keys reef.

• Old Town — A carnival atmosphere erupts here at

sunset as fire-breathers and jugglers compete for attention and donations. Visit an assortment of sou-venir shops before stopping at sidewalk cafes featur-ing the freshest seafood, Caribbean cuisine and, of course, Key lime pie.

where to stay:— Flamingo Campground, Everglades National Park,

(305) 242-7700— Long Pine Key Campground, Everglades National

Park, (305) 242-7700— The Jolly Roger Travel Park, Marathon,

(800) 995-1525— Knights Key Park, Marathon, (305) 743-4343— Sunshine Key RV Resort and Marina, Big Pine Key,

(800) 852-0348— Bahia Honda State Park, Big Pine Key,

(305) 872-2353— Calusa Campground Condominium Association,

Key Largo, (305) 451-0232

99-mile inland water route between Flamingo and the Gulf Coast. The entire trip takes about seven hours by motorboat; a canoe trip can take nine days. Numbered markers guide you through mangrove forests and around countless islands. With a back country permit, you can camp at sites along the route. Nautical charts are necessary for finding your way in the coastal zone. Rangers recommend “A Paddler’s Guide to Everglades National Park,” by J. Malloy. The guide sells for $16.95 and offers detailed information about every significant paddling route in the park. Or you may want to simply step aboard a nightly sunset bay cruise that departs from the Flamingo Marina. “The best part of the bay cruise is that you’ll leave the mosquitoes on shore,” said Danny the con-cessionaire. “But don’t worry; they’ll be waiting for you to return.” With one-third of Everglades National Park cov-ered by water, anglers can enjoy outings year-round. Snapper, sea trout, redfish, bass and bluegill are plentiful. During state open season, stone crabs and blue crabs may be harvested, as well as shrimp. Due to the region’s unique composition — it is essentially a slow-moving river fed by Lake Okeechobee — freshwater and saltwater fishing are possible in the same park, although Florida law requires separate fishing licenses for each type. Become a slough sleuth “Our favorite time for hiking is the early morning before it gets too hot,” said Asmuss, a full-time RVer based in Sarasota, Fla., who frequently visits the Everglades. “The animals are most active and you stand a really good chance of seeing them roaming about.” Ranger-led activities are popular with the Asmuss family, though interpretive trails allow exploration at their own pace. The Buntings found the trails around Shark Valley to be the most abundant for wildlife viewing. “That’s where we saw the most alligators and birds,” Bill Bunting said. “There is a separate parking area for RVs and the wide trails are easy to use.” While any trail will keep even the most active hikers

occupied, more adventurous visitors can’t miss a 2.5-hour off-trail hike through saw grass and knee-deep water. These ranger-led “wet walks” allow hikers to peek into an alligator hole or check out the interior of a cypress dome. For those who prefer to hike by bike, plenty of trails allow cycling. Rangers lead a 2.5-hour “three-

in-one” bike hike from the Long Pine Key campground through some of the most diverse and endangered habitat in southern Florida. The cost is $20 per person — $15 if you bring your own bike — and includes water. Other ranger-led programs are offered year-round at the Royal Palm Visitor Center, on the east

side of the park, and during win-ter months at the Flamingo, Shark Valley and Gulf Coast centers. With the nearest urban cen-ter more than 50 miles away, the Everglades also affords some of the most spectacular stargazing in the Southern united States. Rangers lead a nightly 50-minute starlight talk at the Long Pine Key camp-

ground’s amphitheater. “One of my favorite activities is to watch stars at night,” said Asmuss. “There is hardly any light pollution and it’s very quiet in the heart of the park, except for the occasional whippoorwills and owls.” [

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13Scenic Route

Vol.1 / No. 3

Historic Key West makes a beautiful and exciting side trip to an Everglades adventure. The five-hour trek culminates in a carnival atmosphere as people from around the world gather in Old Town to enjoy multicultural entertainment and the city’s legendary eateries.