Richmond Dispatch.(Richmond, VA) 1896-03-08.€¦ · A HISTORY OF HATS. changes Worked in Recent Years by Fashion. AS TO TIM. rRESENT MODS. DavtaS the Pool Tea Yearo All of ih,. KvolnttonoHaveBrenIn
1
'**"->,£ »': A HISTORY OF HATS. changes Worked in Recent Years by Fashion. AS TO TIM. r RESENT MODS. DavtaS the Pool Tea Yearo All of ih,. Kvolnttono Have Bren In Favor .f Iteaetr mod Kleaanrr.Some S|iri')-t Fancie*. Written for tho Dispatch.) We wonder, did fashion Brat turn . ty of 1 SS. 1*4 BS l»-r-- B feature ¦Mil? NVe csa hal Hg tsy; for ire psrmlts us ts traea- o-veetegs aaars slwaya bees Ate* Bsd Ly their BMtleSS variety of Bnfl flsslga Tl r of the v.oull be a BUbJeCl of '. tot perhai-a taara has an item of femlnlBi ¦poa »hl** it-1" B IM BBB more - arbltrsry. r grsndmothsrs1 dais, and bl pome i i waa it," t it was comine il fain for BSlSBt WSBTl -, i i, ti, bat a Ians Bi 1. with a curious B, largs vated i sad loud, for it ll iht- age of shrinking modesty, thc- Bl i of sloping. Shawl! 1 Bb lins, droop- ts and the shady poko bonnet of .. oe i ,:. itable Bl raw formed Bttll | headgear for ihe WOBMA -ur. We remi r*,' t well bow the I u I roine arith tbe bonnet .. . 1.-ail.er shading h- r Blures; it was a iutii» ... j ¦> laps, bat, allis.' In ti, td* routhftii t ;. iw to Mush, and ber timidity 1 Iv ii Mern BBBSBClpatloa In I bl oar flntjr to criticise the bat u* th** Init und bonnet small; ts; Its ly, nnd OthsiBlSS; and put n- all bal ino I. rn data stern- i :i the whole. r-hould. we SOB* rongrstuisted on the arrota* » bi B*sjr during tbs last raysd throucb es of ugliness snd discomfort. .. ssat m ,n,-nt bas achieved r elegance in millinery. A ptatea trass, ws to ll tt plBlnly se coverings s s *.. tn s v a bi f, Tbs chief char* tbe mUHnsry at tin-* flats BBd inartistic blending of D . to ie,, :.',.id, without illili.., and a .¦ by ike unhappy : th* hat or 1 inst so bead that all Ike th neate I kali w< Quite t ia tl artier ,11 will Bl flVSd !" ik lit* shape, with in snd Hewers; rllmntertng ii 'if ve!.-1 or 1 w.th stiff ro- sn-da of ribboa toss wi r.* happily m of accord I j.-tte.l gause. Large fawn silk hat, "** J*"*^ black plumes, mil black violet velvet, trimmed with sea" « "n» cursed e« ray. ecru lace, wood violets, black plumes, and cut osprey*.'- ;^^^""""""""""""""""""""""""""-" to ihe head, hnd are remembered by in as a Brand Inducer ot a frontal I.i-l . .ii ul ibiH tims wan con- \.- tn b.r method "f millinery Bfjs, uni gedge! tliat if the adorn- vaa in tbe front of the hat or bon* i'i. tbe baiik must go bare as the ppo* verMal robin. And, vice versa, dil h. r beccase later, when the simp** v\an metamorphosed out of uti by a back turned righi up and fastened by a multitude of stiff "l.ixin i«,Wa, leaving the front nulte plain. and further competed by a fully-gnHi,.. fl trim ot <ai_ or velvet. And of. these Uriel brims we are constrained to «|ieak ;i moiii'nt. Wool works "f elaboration pi, i overmatch materi they warts and how many hoon of agony did tiiey not caoas tb* amateur and aspiring dress- t B brim mintie it.s Miling wan an unpardonable crime In the eyes of onnet nt this period was much 11 shnps resemble I thi MPi innde ll'*' raye by a Certain i ;..-il lady; and altbongl ai I Brae charm to frame certain fhesot it 'ip,u- doubt. MM Ot the mest un- comfoi table of bend coverings, unions the c'lifTure was carefully eon le red. Ita ten¬ dency to slip bnckwnrd in our most din;- niomenta was humiliating and we di n 't nears ranch ever the death of thc anet The most notable move of fashion In millinery was guide a little later, when th" "bun." snUrtaed an Immoraliaed ootf- fuie. dawned npon us. Te mitch the '.lum" wai the fiat, an entire antithesis t,, its funner companions.the hat, anni* ),i,v to plate-like flatn.---«, trimmed scan¬ tily bal with grace, anl worn as fur bm R opon the bead as it is now tilted forward, t iii..ii ls fashion's Kn«at. -t ,. ere long we wera balancing our li- I '"-f U i'i such a way as t give :i looh ot deformity. But with the disappearance of the "bun" from sm,nt Circles, ti general tone of beauty and art Into "ur millinery, and despite ax* tlon, wild blending* of color, and mixture of materials, our i r has inver been more lovely than now. i n's latest whims In this, perhaps are width and bdghth, and she show? them In the picture bat, Purely MM of the loveliest of revived cr.-atlons; it has our warmest affectlonn, and must be justly conaldi red the setting par excellence for a beautiful face But the picture-hat. to be . .rucceen, must bo worn with discretion; it is the property nf youth and beauty, A fenturee lined witt Time's foot- prints should never be shadowed beneath it. lt must be, too, of fairest fabric*! and costly plumage, and the woman of limit¬ ed purse should sternly deny herself tts joy, for hopeless ls Its appearance com¬ posed of cotton velvets and cheap feath¬ ers. But what of the toque?.that dainty ind ever-varying creation, for which we should never crass to thank our Parisian sister; the toque which can be mad* In a hundred different materials, and as many designs; tbe toque which we can ever adapt to our personal appearance wltbout forfeiting one of tu charms; lt may be simple an<l neat, elaborate, and comly, coeiue'ttiKh and ..llgnillid, and worn with grace and bcoomlngness by every woman who ls not absolutely In sere ma- tronhood. The to^ue possesses, too, the viftue of comfort, and is more univ, rsal- ly becoming to our features than the hat, either larste or small. At present. Fashion show-, no sign of depriving us of this valuable acquisition to our wardrobe-, and We bops cordially that Its reign may extend unto a Jula! Ontknm tkoootp, Bndi qua i,!., li a of lon ly novelties ni ar.- | bowl Irt the shops to tempt the wak, as del the BBflMHt "f old. The most gor- geens of eanbraMerlea, .ali thick with BpwkNng stuffs or mock Jeanie, the fliest and iiimsk-st of beautiful laeea, many of them wrooght in designs broashl out in the daintiest of exquisite colorings, and looking ns If paint' I. (ip.- of th.- i.ev. .-st things In the lace line ls the combination of black anl white which can be n '! With Bglendld Sited Bg .i ll uk gown. The grounelwork of this lace is Meek, with the puttcrn brought out In Honiton work in a yellowish white, It ls shown In broad bania of in pi. to be used ns bo'lloe decorations and In different widths of edgings. I/ovely b'-rtlii.s ure made e.f |t In deep points to set around the edge of the ele-- colUtage. por a white frock the- Uni laces are exquisite, becUUM th' y add te.ip- and color to lt. A DogeBt dinner frock has a trained skirt of embossed satin in delicate scrolls of color. In which gold is mingled over a pure white ground. It ls exceedingly graceful and sweeps widely at the bottom. The bodice ls made up of softly-folded leap rose tinted mouBBallne de sole, crushed into a folded bell of leep moe* tinted velvet, with a full bow at tba back. A wile band of the l-auiifully-tlnteJ lace 1% set all along the pointed adja, coming almost to the' waist In the t.ack, and showing all th" lovely curves ofter the manner <>t tho French. The sleeves are all fiillpouffs from the shoulden, and are Banda of deep rose- tinted velvet, overlaid with bands at Bel Intervals of the tinted lace. A full frou¬ frou of moussellne de sole finishes them at the elbow. A buga fan, with carved pearled StlekA an all mounted with gfaaay-blaek j tarnee, lonsr iriove* of black, and pointe.) shoes of black suede, com¬ plete the- toilette. A smart Hui" bodice to be worn with a black satin skirt has a basis of emerald green Bl t put on in extreme fulness ov-r a silk foundation, making the; color BBBBB very intense. It has three lengthwise banda of black lace reaching from shoul'l- er to belt, the edgea decorated with nar¬ row frills of white moussellne la The big puffed sleeves are treated In the same way. There wis a fetching gown worn at one of ih'- i-ig charitable affairs last week, which £ugge«tei opportunities to one. it was Banda un of a deliciously warm shade of pinkish tan, with broad furry strij.es running diagonally over lt. The skirt was one of the delightfully big ones, all stuck out in big flutes, and wsw lined throughout with pinkish violet taffeta. Tho Eton Jacket carno only to the waist line at th., back, but was cut In long, sharp points in the front, which wet- decorated with cut-pearl buttons set In rims of gold. It rolled open broadly to display a ful'. vest of tan motissellne As sole, brought In at the waist by a broadly folded gtrflla Bf the tan stuff. There was a high stock buiit up about the ears sf violet velvet, edged with narrow tinted lace, and a deep frill of lace draped across tbs brasat Aa enormously wide collar of snowy ermine set back over the should¬ ers, and gave an air of decided chic to t!',o costume. The hat worn with it was a creation of Virot's, sad had all the airs and graces of a French mondalne. The brim was straight and broad, and waa of coarsely- woven tan silk braid, necked with gold. A bandeau of vari-colored roses rested on the bair, and made a resting place for a long, glossy black plume. An en¬ tire WiaBtk of pink roses enclrcl'd the broad low crown, with a bunch of nod¬ ding plumes at the front, and another long one at the back. There were glovrtj the exact tint of the frock and dainty gaiters of the same tint worn over the patent leathers. Ermine is essentially an evening fur, and still, paradoxical as lt may seem, lt ls worn on the street coni-tsntly by wo¬ men of unquestionable taste, and lt is wonderfully fetching and becoming, too. Jt. little of lt. well applied, goes far to¬ ward brightening up a sombre gown. Broad boas and big* muffs, or more often the muffs alone, are commonly seen, and | that not with carriage toilettes either. . . . At this stock-taking season the wide¬ awake housewife ls on the lookout for tbe small but gorgeous remnants, which are so temptingly offered In the furnish¬ ing departments of our large stores. And any one Interested in fsncy work dis-* covers endless possibilities of beauty in their rather meagre proportions What if there ta only a email square of each deslga, contrasting pieces of thee* silk damask beauties are selected and quickly transformed Into a fluffy, durable, and exquisitely pretty sofa pillow, with a ruffle of china Bilk to break ths effect where the contraotlng edges Join. Many of these rcmnanta. which prove to be veritable ert square*, are used Sf centres Of ubte-covers, backs for lounging corners, snd sven for dsinty couch snd crib spreads. And then tbe wonderful possibilities In th* way of chair decoration with these damask snd cretonne and other attrac¬ tive remnants. A very handsome chair may be made of an ordinary splint rocker, and a worn and unsightly one at that, by some upholstering. This con¬ sists, first. In stuffing the seat and back wtlh curlod-halr In sufficient quantities to make lt luxurious. The hair is covered first with a very stout sheeting or tick¬ ing, then with a handsome momle cre¬ tonne, to be tacked to the chair frame first with ordinary furnlture-tacks; then Its edges should be covered with silk fur- iiluirr» braid, the color of the ground¬ work, the braid-work to be tacked down at intervals with small, polished, brass- lieaded nails. Another treatment ls to upholster the chair In a richer stuff of a single color, ami then to gild its frame and decorate the four seat corners and the top with silk cord, ending In pompon tassels. A third treatment ls to paint In enamel colors and gold, ond upholster with movable cushion and head-rest made from h"avy remnants of prettily-colored dama«k. * . . Porcelains made Into the shape of shells, but In colors resembling rare marbles and fine stones, are a new departure In lami>-shades. They cannot compare In beauty with tho-** where the real shells ar.* u:te,|. Opalescent porcelains oma- j mented In the forms peculiar to Japanese art are Imported to combine with tho bronze standards used in the lamps. Some of these decorations are the klrt, or the flower of the pnulownia; the imperial, Ihi SS clawed Alagna, the sacred tortoise, the crane, the p|ne, and tile bsmbOB-treea The crime nnd the tor¬ in the superstition sf Us* Japs, represent Inng'-viiy. a a. The care nf In mps certainly presents some disadvantage for the housewife. She must either car- f,,r them herself. if abe keeps but one servant, or run th--* r'sk of having h- r dBasalts flavor, fl with .-, t.> say notli.tn: of smoking burn¬ ers and smudged chimneys A ByStea* of bolling th,- burners once month will obviate m.,sr of the trouble that conies from smoking burners. Have b rsgalav flay for the opsratJoa; put ail U\» bunn rs together In a hand-basin, - viih l.i'iing water, and odd a lump i f washing BOflB HM BBM Bf I miall egg. Boil rapidly for fifteen minut-. nnd aili Bad charred blis of wick and dust' will have loosened. H-move them from ihe water, rinse dry with a cloth, nnd brush well with a small long-handled paiat-brn -h. The trimming of the wick ls an Im¬ portant ninit>-r, which la usually only la-J differently fulfilled. After tbs lamp has bssa Ailed lift tbe cap Of IBS burrier, rai-.* ths arish elias ta the cylinder, ,,r tabs. which holds lt, and willi a scissors kepi for the purpose trim off the charred parts only, close to Ike metal, rounding the corners very slightly. BJoOsfl chimneys ar" best cleansed by- being held over the steam of a kettle an-ll polished with newspaper. P For Lent. There ls more than one reason why we should abstain from meat In Lent. The churches which observe I^ntcnly demand abstinence from meat on two days of the Beek; and even a nml-lnvalid would be benefited by a change of diet twice in seven day**. The second reason the church-goer's conscience will supply, '.and, thirdly," Lent was Instituted discipline ond benefit the body as well as tho soul. Coming, as lt does, in the spring, when light food ls always recom¬ mended, a Iy-nten fast ls an excellent idea. fl h ls the next object for our conside¬ ration, nnd th°re ls psttsBBS no more use- ful article of food. for. unlike many others, lt can be utilized in almost every course, sweets excepted blen entendu. De¬ licious sours, dainty hors d'oeurvre, ex¬ cellent releves, cold and hot entrees, Im¬ portant dishes sf all kinds, and savouries without number can be produced by Its help, besides whj, h lt is invaluable for quenelles, farce or stuffings; and whether lt be fresh, salted, smoked, or pickled, it ls both nourishing and welcome at our, table. Obviously, too, lt may by some be considered as more generally useful even than meat, as it ls permitted on fast as well as feast days, and not objected to by some vegetarians. * . . As concerns tho choice of fish, there ls mi,ch to be said of which the average housewife may be Ignorant; the question of freshness, feir instance, ls an all-lm- poriant one; Indeed, a disregard of the same often leads to disastrous results in the way of serious indisposition; then, again, lt must not be eaten out of sea¬ son, even though it may be on sale, and very appetizing in appearance. In choos¬ ing fish the principal points to be ob¬ served are these: The eyes and scales Gray felt bat, bound with astin, trim¬ med with dsrk-blue snd green shot satin bows, black and gold quills._ shoukfbeTlear and orlght. the Inside of the allis of » bright or vivid red. and the fish itself must be firm to the touch; pale Sis and a flabby body are to be avoided a Doison. With one or two exceptions in the ouse of larger kinds, very little time should be allowed to elapse between kilima snd cooking, whereas In some In¬ stances (as with eels, trout, etc.), they must be purchased alive In order to be tn aroper condition. The following list, which lt ls hardly possible to give hsre tn tbe most exhaustive manner, wfll hts gt tat rots, tam goWe te eur roatort ot to the season at which tha principal kinds of Ash are at their beat: Barbel, from October to January; baas. April to August; bream. September to February; brill, September to March; carp, except during Us close time (which ls April and May), w eaten more or less aV the year round, but the best time is from October to March; cod, October to April; dace, October to February; dory, almost all the year round, but principally from March to the New Year; eels, ex¬ cept In June and July, are very edible at any time, but are in their prime from October to April; gurnet, September to February; herring, April to December; mackerel, May to August. Though this fish may be obtained during the colder months, lt should be chosen with care; lt should be bright, and have a silver hue; when lt Is red about the head lt ls not In good condition. Pike," October to February, but ls also to be had from the beginning of August. Salmon, from F li¬ ma ry to August. The close time la from September to February. Skate ls In sea¬ son October to April. Smelt, October to April; sole ls edible at almost any time of the year, but the best time ls from June to February; sturgeon, from Septem¬ ber to March; trout, where lt ls obtaina¬ ble, ls not to be eaten in April or May; the best month is August: turbet may be had during the larg:r part pf the year; lt ls excellent from October to March, and hardly obtainable In June; whitebait, March to August; whiting, from Sept. p ber to March, at Its best, but* to be had nearly all the year round. Oyeters, as every one knows by the popular saying, are not to be eaten during tho months lu. which there ls no "r"; In buying them, lt ls well not to be anxious for great /fouje'Cok/ff economy, especially since, certain diseases have been said to result from the poor condition of this shellfish. Crabs are good from May to August. Lobster ls in sea¬ son from Februnry to October, and mus¬ sels from September to March. . . . Now, as it ls my object to emphasize dainty cooking, lt may be well to observe at this point that boiling tish In plain water is almost an unknown thing with, the foreign cook, even in the most modest hoUM holds; to relieve the monotony which must result from such a proceed¬ ing, a special broth is made and kept Iri ;-t,,ck as a matter of course, and varies for fresh and salt-water fls^ This to called court bouillon, while another ex- presaton is cooking the fish "au bleu." The court bouillon for fresh-water fish can ba prepared with white cooking wine or vinegar, as most convenient. For Instance, put three pinta of water over the tire, with two carrots, two onions, roughly cut In pieces; a garlic root, two or three clqvcs; a bay leaf, a small hand¬ ful of parsley, and salt and pepper to tnntei let it bell for one hour, strain it, and put the liquor back over the fire with the same quantity of white wine tor half the quantity of good white vine¬ gar), and let lt boll. It can be kept fresh for several days, In winter for a longer time by bolling lt up every two or three days, adding each time a small tumblerful of water. Where fish ls eaten every day, or two or three times a week, this liquor can be used over and over again; it ls merely a question of getting Into the habit of having a fish-stock pot a« well as one for meat, and lt should be the business of the housewife to exact that this should be done as a matter of course, when it will not be looked upon as an extra and "faddy" piece of work. * . . For all salt-water fish the preparation differs slightly from the above. It to made according to the size of the fish, wiih equal quantities of milk ami wuter, and a fair seasoning of salt and pepper; the milk helps to preserve the whiteness of the flesh. Some ealt-water Ash require to bo boiled in at wine or vinegar court liouillon, but the best succeed far better with the milk. In any case, lt will be stated when vinegar should be used. Besides this proc,?ss, there are other genera', ways of cooking flah.viz., en matelote (of which there are three kinds), the bourgeolse, the virge, and the mart- nlere en friture.I. e., a common frying process.and, finally, au vin (In wine). Each of these preparations ls suited in a wholesale manner, so to speak, to cer¬ tain classes ot Ash, which will be Indi¬ cated with each recipe. The matelote applies to various kinds of fish.carp, t-t-ls, barbel, pike, and hake are all most suitable. Clean, trim, and cut the Ash In pieces; put into a saucepan a bouquet of parsley, thyme, one bay-leaf, two or three chives, a couple of cloves, a garlic root, and on this place the Ash; cover with equal quantities of red wine and stock, season plentifully, and set this over the Are to boil briskly for about twenty minutes, moisten with more stock the while, If necessary. . . . Proceed with the matelote bourgeolse as follows: Put Into a large stewpan a lump of butter and about a seora ot onions; toss them until they assume a golden color; sdd two tablespoonfuls of flour, and moisten with the liquor, which should, mean time, have been strained off the fish. Put the fish aside to keep hot Stir chopped matelote over the Are; put in some chopped mush* rooina or morels and a squeese of lemon, or a few drops of vinegar. Let the mix* tura simmer and boll gently till reduced to the desired quantity (If tha onions should not be quite tender by this time, add a little water, and let lt boil a few minutes longer). Arrange the flab on a suitable Una, cover lt wltb the matelote, garnish with fried bread, and eerv* very hot Matelot* a la Mar!.*uW-.r\**"?a-4a the Ash as above; when lt la tender, put lt Batts to keep hot; strain ths liquor; put lt back over tbe Aro with a port-wine- glassful m brandy or plain eau de vie; let lt bi/t for a quarter of sn hour; lt will be then be sufficiently reduced; thick¬ en the sauce with a plec* of butter; be¬ fore serving sdd some button-onions snd chopped mushrooms, previously slightly browned In butter; serve hot, as before. Matelote Vlerge.-BoU the Ash In pieces with a bouquet garni; two parts of white wine to one of'water, and a small piece of butter. Smites some small onions, and mushrooms with pepper, salt, and nutmeg; and two or three table¬ spoonfuls of flour. After these Ingredi¬ ents have bolled and become thoroughly Incorporated with one another, add, stir¬ ring the while, enough of the liquor In which the fish has boiled to produce the quantity of gravy you will requrfe; when slightly .reduce.] thicken It with the yolk of two or three eggs; arrange the Ash on a dish, pour the sauce over lt. Garnish with any of the following: Fried bread, fish qu»nelles, crayfish, smal! groups of shrimps, mushrooms, or truf¬ fles, as convenient or desired. These ar* very characteristic French dishes, and are excellent suppers during the Cold sea¬ son. The Great I.nlonia. (Westminster Review.) The origin of Egyptian civilisation has been tho enigma of the world for the past twenty-five centuries. Presenting no his¬ toric or even mythic Infancy, lt appears before the world at once as a highly civ¬ ilised and organic community centuries before Mo.es was a boy. I'pon this subject lt- nan says: " Egypt ha* no archaic pooh, but suddenly takes Its pur-e In Ihe world In nfl Its matchless magnificence, without father and without mother, and as clean apart from all evolution as If lt had dropped from the unknown heav¬ ens." Would ** -I an explanation at least f"asible bewound In the hypothesis that lt recelveir Its civilization from s.,me source no longer existing? BfBBSB, the first historic figure in Its long line of dynasties, the outlines of whose personality loom up waveringly Indefinite, but grandly Impres¬ sive against the deep mythic background of prehistoric story.at least 4300 H. C.. COnceliad anti executed enterprises, extorting the warmest admiration fr .rn the bast engineers of the nineteenth-cen¬ tury. Dltl he not alter the course of the Nile by vast embankments, to gain stable foundations other than In shifting sand* for hts sacred city of Memphis; construct the artill, ial lake of Moerts. 450 miles In circumference and 350 feet deep, as a res¬ ervoir for the waters of the Nile? Look, too, at the colossal achievements of his, successors In architecture, sculp¬ ture, engineering, astronomical, political, medical, social, and military science, to say nothing of navigation .and theology. Witness the ruins of the Labyrinth re¬ corded by Herodotus, which had 3,000 chambers, half of them above ground and half below, a combination of courts, cham¬ bers, colonnades, statues, and pyramid*. Witness the wonders of the magniflcant temple of Karnac, which still awakens our adlnlration-a temple, as Denon says, wherein the Cathedral of Notre Dame In Paris could! be set inside one of Its halls and yet not touch the walls. Witness the sublime pyramids, originally built in ¦amor of the sun god Ra, and for use as astronomical observatories, the splendor* of Memphis, Tlnbes. and Heliopolis, of the Sphinx and the obelisks, the statuary, and the numerous tempi,-*, with the ruins of which the land ls still filled. Voice of the Western. AV In H. !E. C. Stedman.) Voice of the western wind! Thou slngest from afar! Rich with the music of a land NVh>-re ali my memories are; But in thy song I only hear The echo of a tone That fell divinely un my ear In days forever flown. Star of the western iky! Thou beamest from afar, With lustre caught from eyes I knew. Whose orbs were each a star; But, oh! those orbs.too wildly bright- No more eclipse thine own, And never shall I find the light Of days forever flown! An Idea for Dyspeptic*. A dear old lady, who ls Just JW years old, says that sho bas, throughout that Im¬ mensely-long life, been remarkably free from anything like dyspepsia. She at¬ tributes this good health entirely to B habit formed In youth, and never trans¬ gressed. She ls very fond of both coffee and tea, and always has been, by the way, drlrklng either one or the other at every' me,." But she never drinks either with tho meals. She always waits until she has finished eating, and then drinks the contents of the cup beside her plate. And lt ls to this course of procedure that she believes she owes her emancipation from the national Indigestion. Mixed Goods for I ros riling Skirts. Skirts for travelling will be built of plaid woollen crepons, with plain silk blouses to slide easily beneath the lor.g Fkynr.i 1 wraps. These crepons are very hand¬ some, the plaids being Inconspicuous and chiefly of one general color.a dark-blue, has faint markings of pate yellow, a gold brown ls plaided with pale blue, another dark blue haa light blue and red In lt. and. handsomer than all. a reseda-green crepon ls barred with pale rose snd pale blue. These ara eely H.75 a yard. EagBBBBBag Cnnagea. The moat fashionable embroidery for evening gowns la Vienna la laos, covered wltb diamonds, er, rather, paste, anl wbleb Inn a moot beautiful nnd brOUenV effect. At tha recent court bann nt Austrian capital moat of tba _ their draasea draped with thin novel trim¬ ming, end the effect wa youd description. New \ are so successfully imitated, only to en* pert can distinguish which ls real, nad the Vienna evening dresses look like a glittering mass of light, the bodices espe¬ cially being almost covered with brit* Hants. Telephoned to Hie Dog. (Tacoma Ledger.) A good many stories arc told of tba strange uses of the long-distance tels* phone. The day the tine was opened tn Merrill. Wis., a Chicago man hunting in the Northern woods came Into town and learne,'. of the Innovation He T'enl Into one of the "sound proof bootha and had himself put in communication with his family. As they had a tetephoM at the house, the task was a small one. He chatted with his wife, told her a nata story, at which she smiled without sen* barrassing him. since he could not sen the sign of Incredulity; talked with ala boy and girl, and then called for "Ch^a* "Gyp" was a setter, a great family pat, which had been lett behind, because of an a'vi tent which had rendered him lame. "Gyp" was called to the tele¬ phone, and he stood on a chair, hie fore feet on the back, and his mistress held the transmitter to his ear. "Hello, *Oypl' " called the master from Men! I. And the dog In Chicago pricked up hLs ears and whlnned. The master then whistled cheerily, and the setter barked directly into the receiver. He knew hts master's voice and whistle aa weil, and the master cheered him by ready laughter at the prompt and eager reply. It was worth the |**.t0 lt cost Pathos to liingrrii. (Philadelphia Evening Telegraph) This session has produced things eon* spicuously bad, as well as given birth to eloquence, and the office cat haa had strange things to feed upon. A very con¬ spicuous and absurdly sentimental mern* ber of the House from New England, who loves to weep over the wickedness of the world, and was pathetic over pensions, gave utterance to this burst ot eloquence when the pe'.sion appropria¬ tion bill was under consideration by the House: "Why did he weep? Why did he weep? I say, Mr. Speaker, why did he a >ep? I r.peat Mr. Speaker, whr did he weep? His heart was broken. Yes. Mr. Speaker, I knew this man. He dla»d of a broken heart! He died of a broken heart. 1 repeat. Mr. Speaker, h«» died of a brohea heart! Ho never smHed again. They re. fused him the pitiful Increase of $2 . month on his pension. I say, Mr. Speak¬ er, he never smiled again. I repeat, hi never smiled again!'' and there wer« tears in the member's voice as he close! this outburst of pathos. The (inn ni Inn* ot Troth. (Washington Star.) What secrets strange might be revealed, What plans for future deeds! What mysteries could be unsealed To all the world that reads. If, as the fables say men do, A skilful scribe would go Anl delicately interview The ducks at Quantico! Our prophets into error pass; "These things are thus," they say; But, ere* a week, we And. alaal They're quite snottier way. In vain you'll search the country For some who really know The facts. anteBB you Interview The ducks at Quantico! All About Frills. There lu a tendency this season In favoi of pointed-toe shoes, with patent-leathei vamps, and cloth uppers to match thl gown. Chine, taffeta, or faille silks of dark grounds covered with lighter pompadour effects are the thing for street, while the same skirt may be utilised with a more delicate-shaded bodice for evening. Collarettes are and will remain fash* ionable. Some of them are perfect du ama of beauty. The pointed and square are very much In demand, but collars wltb epaulets will, no doubt be tot prtftUMfin style- * Very new are the "Louis" coats nf' and dark-green velvet, mada with revere attached tn bren! angMsng I satin collara. Tbe fronts el *<«% *»*»¦' llnlshed by n Jabot al white er lace. «oo« Manana for Itaatnt (gpHegfleid Kcpubttoaaj tt te tbe purpose of tbe eminent, if pnaafhls. to reetten before ike Vntt. ybato ita .mgaa mn _¦
to ihe head, hnd are rememberedby in as a Brand Inducer ot a
frontal
I.i-l . .ii ul ibiH tims wan con-\.- tn b.r method "f
millineryBfjs, uni gedge! tliat if the adorn-vaa in tbe front of
the hat or bon*
i'i. tbe baiik must go bare as the ppo*verMal robin. And, vice
versa, dil h. r
beccase later, when the simp**v\an metamorphosed out of utiby a
back turned righi up
and fastened by a multitude of stiff"l.ixin i«,Wa, leaving the
front nulte plain.and further competed by a fully-gnHi,.. fltrim ot
ep? Ir.peat Mr. Speaker, whr did he weep?His heart was broken. Yes.
Mr. Speaker,I knew this man. He dla»d of a brokenheart! He died of
a broken heart. 1repeat. Mr. Speaker, h«» died of a broheaheart! Ho
never smHed again. They re.fused him the pitiful Increase of $2
.month on his pension. I say, Mr. Speak¬er, he never smiled again.
I repeat, hinever smiled again!'' and there wer«tears in the
member's voice as he close!this outburst of pathos.
The (inn ni Inn* ot Troth.(Washington Star.)
What secrets strange might be revealed,What plans for future
deeds!
What mysteries could be unsealedTo all the world that reads.
If, as the fables say men do,A skilful scribe would go
Anl delicately interviewThe ducks at Quantico!
Our prophets into error pass;"These things are thus," they
say;
But, ere* a week, we And. alaalThey're quite snottier way.
In vain you'll search the countryFor some who really know
The facts. anteBB you InterviewThe ducks at Quantico!
All About Frills.There lu a tendency this season In favoi
of pointed-toe shoes, with patent-leatheivamps, and cloth uppers
to match thlgown.Chine, taffeta, or faille silks of dark
grounds covered with lighter pompadoureffects are the thing for
street, whilethe same skirt may be utilised with amore
delicate-shaded bodice for evening.Collarettes are and will remain
fash*
ionable. Some of them are perfect du amaof beauty. The pointed
and square arevery much In demand, but collars wltb
epaulets will, no doubt be tot prtftUMfinstyle- *Very new are
the "Louis" coats nf'
and dark-green velvet, mada withrevere attached tn bren! angMsng
Isatin collara. Tbe fronts el *
