Eating Out

March 12 – 18 2014 Time Out Dubai 45

Originally from Los Angeles, the concept behind Katsuya by Starck brings together chef Katsuya Uechi’s brand of Japanese cooking (apparently adapted for American tastes, the menu explains) with the visual aesthetics of French interior designer Philippe Starck.

Starck’s distinct style is evident and out in force in this restaurant. There is a central sushi counter made out of large slabs of glittering white granite, with a canopy of traditional Japanese ‘noren’ curtains overhead. One white wall is decorated in stylised black icons of samurai hats. On the other side, dining booths are divided by alternate walls adorned with samurai swords and Japanese fans made out of transparent acrylic in neon colours. Between this, over-sized paper lanterns in black and white hang from the ceiling and red waving cats seem to grace most fl at surfaces. The

design is uncluttered and chic, yet still full of colour and character.

The indoor restaurant space was fairly busy on the day we visited and although there were several free tables, since the restaurant also has a terrace in a very good position overlooking the Dubai Fountains from the fi rst fl oor, the reservation desk was crowded with guests begging for a table outside.

Once seated, the greeting at the table was warm, with staff giving guests both a towel and a thorough rundown of the concept. In fact, the

knowledge displayed by staff was unparalleled for a mall restaurant. Every question regarding the menu was answered with ease. One waitress even rattled off how many plates of rock shrimps the restaurant usually serves in a day to illustrate how popular the dish is (250 in fact).

As such, advice on what to order was top-notch. Every plate was presented with unfussy but attractive elegance on stylish Japanese-style crockery. The rock shrimps were a great dish of fat, fresh-tasting prawns in a creamy chilli mayonnaise, with a light and patchy batter that had a wonderful crunch to it without being heavy. Salmon and ikura sashimi arrived as elegant curls of fi sh, beautifully marbled with fat, sitting on a slice of cucumber and topped with generous amounts of fi sh roe. The combination, in addition to the fi nely diced raw red onion inside the salmon roll, was delicious as were the Hollywood rolls, stuffed with crab, tempura prawns and topped with albacore white tuna. The maitake mushrooms from the robata grill were beautifully presented and looked like fl owers and were wonderfully meaty.

The insistence on the Japanese menu being ‘adapted’ to foreign tastes at fi rst certainly seemed alarming, but for the most part, the fusion touches were well-conceived. The setting is fun, the food is good and the staff will make sure you are happy. It’s very reasonably priced, too. A highly recommended destination. Open daily 11am-midnight. Unlicensed. Credit cards accepted. The Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai (04 315 3633).

Katsuya by StarckYoung, fresh, new dining comes to The Dubai Mall

‘Salmon and ikura sashimi arrived as elegant curls of fi sh with generous amounts of fi sh roe’

We’re going to start with some well- timed news that will let you enjoy a gourmet experience with an al fresco twist, while the weather is still cool enough. Bã Restaurant & Lounge at Fairmont The Palm has announced its fi rst weekend brunch. Taking place on Saturdays, the new yum cha brunch will serve a selection of Asian bites, including steamed dim sum and dishes from the wok. This brunch however has an outdoor twist, and will allow guests to swim and sunbathe at the pool and beach in between grazing, all to music from DJs. You can even take your brunch in a beachside cabana for two.

We’re noticing something of a trend

for yum cha brunches at the moment, with events being held on the weekend across the Palm Jumeirah, at Yuan in Atlantis The Palm (on Fridays), and at Hong Loong in Sofi tel The Palm (on Saturdays). More Asian brunch highlights come by way of Nobu, which has relaunched the event with a completely new menu. The new four-course deal (for Dhs595 including beverages), will start with sharing items such as spicy chicken tacos, a selection of sushi, plus truffl e miso soup and edamame. Next up guests can choose an appetiser each (from a list that includes oysters with Nobu salsa or lobster quinoa salad), two main course dishes each (such as slow-cooked wagyu beef with eggs and black cod yuzu miso),

Finally, instead of the afternoon tea

style multi-tiered selection of desserts that used to arrive at the table, guests can now help themselves to the dessert buffet. We hope Nobu’s famous ice-cream mochis will still be in there!Early April is also looking busy for food events, but this time with a Mediterranean, rather than Asian twist. Certo in the Radisson Blu Media City will be welcoming Michelin-star Italian chef Antonella Ricci back to the restaurant from Wednesday April 2-4. Chef Antonella will prepare a ‘cucina povera’ inspired menu, which refl ects the traditional recipes of Italy’s poor. The menu will be offered alongside grape pairings devised by Italian sommelier Antonella Millarte, voted the best in the world, out of 200 nominees. More Mediterranean charm wings its

way to Dubai via southern Spain. Celebrating the annual festival of fl amenco that takes place in Seville in Spain every April (Feria de Abril), Seville restaurant in Dubai will be hosting its very own fl amenco festival. Taking place from Tuesday April 1-4, those who visit the restaurant for dinner on these nights will be treated to a three-course menu and a welcome glass of Spanish sparkling grape for Dhs195. Starting from 9pm on each of these evenings, there will also be live fl amenco performances for dancers fl own in from Spain.

Until next week, bon appétit!

The insiderWe tour the Asian brunch scene on the Palm Jumeirah, and look forward to Italian chef visits and Spanish festivals

Review

Nobu

Certo

Bã Restaurant

Seville’s

The bill (for two)1x rock shrimps Dhs551x salmon ikura sashimi Dhs651x Hollywood roll Dhs591x maitake mushroom Dhs352x mocktail Dhs64Total (excluding service) Dhs278