recipes from cooking in the moment by andrea reusing

8/8/2019 Recipes from Cooking in the Moment by Andrea Reusing

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cooking in the moment


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cookingin the

momentA Year of Seasonal RecipesANDREA REUSING

Clarkson Potter/Publishers

New York


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Copyright 2011by Andrea Reusing

Photographs copyright 2011by John Kernick

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/Publishers

an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division ofRandom House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.clarksonpotter.com

CLAR KSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with

colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Reusing, Andrea.

Cooking in the moment / Andrea Reusing. 1st ed.

p. cm.

Includes index.

1. Cookery (Natural foods). 2. Menus. I. Title.

TX741.R49 2010 641.5'636dc22 2010018532

ISBN 978-0-307-46389-0

Printed in China

Design by Marysarah Quinn

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

first edition


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For Mac, Oona, and Arthur


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sources 264acknowledgments 267

index 268

fall 145 winter 207


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spring


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sp r in g | e n d o f m a r c h | 19

grilled broccoli withparsley, garlic, and anchoviesDelicate fresh broccoli and cauliflower from a garden or small farm dont resemble the useful

California sorts that are a fixture in our produce drawer the rest of the year, and so we enjoy themwhile we can. But because broccoli and cauliflower do travel and keep exceptionally well, I make

these recipes year-round, just allowing for slightly longer cooking times when dealing with more

mature vegetables.

serves 4

2 small bunches of tender broccoli

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for serving

6 anchovy fillets, minced (if whole salt-packed, filleted and rinsed)

2 garlic cloves, mashed to a pasteGrated zest of 1 lemon

cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

2 teaspoons chile flakes, or to taste

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill.

Cut the broccoli lengthwise to make long florets with all of the tender stem attached.

Blanch in well-salted boiling water for just 15 to 20 seconds, a little longer if the broccoli

is very mature. Drain well, transfer to a medium bowl, and toss with 1 tablespoon of the

oil. When the flame has died down and the coals are completely covered with ash, grill the

broccoli to slightly char it all over. It should get a bit crunchy on the outside yet stay a little

firm at the center.

Mix the anchovies, garlic, lemon zest, parsley, remaining 1 tablespoon oil, and chile

flakes in a bowl. Add the grilled broccoli, toss well, and serve with olive oil at the table for

drizzling.
http://www.randomhouse.com/crown


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s p r i n g | e a r l y a p r i l | 2 9

campfire bacon and eggs in a bagI ate this magical meal at Girl Scout camp when I was seven years old, then thought about it for

the next thirty-odd years until I got to have it again when we went camping in the mountains near

Joes. Its a full breakfast in a paper bag, easy to make if you already have a campfire burning (or

hot embers in a charcoal grill or fireplace), portable, and delicious. As the bacon in the bottomof the paper bag renders and becomes crispy-chewy, the fat protects the paper from burning and

gently steams the egg. This cannot be prepared in advance: after the eggs are cracked, the bags

should be dangling over the hot embers within a minute.

serves 6

6 lunch-size paper bags

6 thick slices bacon, cut in half crosswise

6 large eggsKosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare a campfire or a fire in a fireplace or charcoal grill. Let the flames die down and the

coals become completely covered with ash. (Dont attempt this on a gas grillthey dont

have the firepower to render the bacon before the eggs soak the bags.)

Lay 2 bacon halves across the bottom of each bag so that it is completely covered. Reach

into each bag and carefully crack an egg over the bacon. Season with salt and pepper.

Securely fold down the top of each bag three times and poke a hole through the fold with

a sharp skewer. Thread a long, green stick through the hole and hold each bag so that thebottom is as close to the hot embers as possiblebut without touching them and nowhere

near any open flame. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the egg white is cooked all the way

through.


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sp r in g | j u n e | 57

grilled spanish mackerelwith green sauceThe fact that our great-grandchildren may never eat a real seafood dinner gives those of us who

still eat fish a responsibility not to put blue cheese on it. I like to serve this with the pickled beetsand potato salad that follow. This treatment would work for almost any flavorful, rich fish.

serves 4

4 (8-ounce) Spanish mackerel fillets, skin on

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Finely ground dried red chiles, such as de rbol

Extra virgin olive oil

Green Sauce (recipe follows)

Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill.

Season both sides of each fillet generously with salt, pepper, and chile. Drizzle both sides

with a little olive oil.

When the grill is very hot but the flame has died down and the coals are completely

covered with ash, put the mackerel, skin side down, on the grill. Cook for at least 2 minutes

before moving it at all. In the meantime, watch for flare-ups, extinguishing them with a little

water from a squirt bottle (beer works, too). It will take 4 to 6 minutes to cook the skin side.

When the skin is crispy and deep golden brown, gently flip the fillets with a spatula. Grill

for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Serve with green sauce.


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summer


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1 0 8 | c o o k i n g i n t h e m o m e n t

fried okra with indian spicesand hot tomato relishserves 4 as a small appetizer

1 teaspoon coriander seeds teaspoon fennel seeds

1 clove

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

Vegetable oil, for frying

1 large egg

cup buttermilk

1 medium serrano chile, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chickpea flour

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

teaspoon kosher salt

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 pints okra (just under a pound), stems removed

Sea salt, for serving

Hot Tomato Relish (recipe follows)

In a small pan over medium heat, lightly toast the coriander, fennel, and clove until fragrant,

1 to 2 minutes. Allow to cool completely; then grind and set aside. Toast the cumin seeds in

the same fashion and add them to the ground spices.

Fill a deep, heavy stockpot with about 3 inches of oil. Heat the oil over medium-high

heat until a deep-fat thermometer reads 350F.

Beat the egg in a small bowl and whisk in the buttermilk and serrano chile. In a medium

bowl, combine the chickpea flour, all-purpose flour, salt, pepper, and spice mixture.

Cut the okra on a sharp diagonal into long -inch-thick slices. Put the okra slices into

the bowl with the flour mixture and combine, leaving a light dusting on each piece. Pour the

egg mixture on top and mix with your hands, making sure to coat all surfaces. In batches,

use a large slotted spoon to carefully lay loosely formed handfuls of 6 to 8 slices into the hot

oil and cook for about 2 minutes, turning as necessary until the okra is golden brown and

uniformly crisp. Drain on a clean brown paper bag, season with sea salt, and serve with the

tomato relish.


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tomato sandwichAlex and Betsy Hitt were the first farmers to sell heirloom tomatoes at the Carrboro farmers

market almost thirty years ago, and each summer in mid-June they post a sign above their stand

that reads: Get your bread and mayonnaise readythe tomato flood is coming! A tomato

sandwichthick slices of dead-ripe tomatoes well seasoned with salt and pepper between slices ofsoft white sandwich bread spread with rich mayonnaiseis pure joy. Any attempt to improve

ittoasting the bread, adding lettuce or, god forbid, basilwill only distract from perfection.


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su mme r | s e p t e m b e r | 123

garlic and black peppersoft-shell crabsserves 4

Vegetable oil, for frying3 cups rice flour

3 teaspoons kosher salt

cup freshly ground black pepper

cup minced garlic

cup fish sauce

8 large soft-shell crabs, preferably jumbo or whale size, dressed and cut in half crosswise

Fill a deep, heavy pot with a lid about one-third full with oil, and heat it until a deep-fat

thermometer reads 375F.

In the meantime, combine the rice flour, salt, pepper, and garlic in a medium bowl. Put

1 tablespoon of the fish sauce in a small bowl. Dip each piece of crab very briefly into the

fish sauce, gently shaking off excess, and then into the rice flour mix. Roll the crab over and

shake off any extra flour. Set aside. Repeat this process, until all the crab halves are dredged.

When the oil reaches 375F, gently lay the crabs, top side down, in the oil. Dont crowd

the potif necessary, fry them in batchesand use the lid as needed when the crabs are

first added to the oil to avoid splattering. After 1 to 2 minutes, when the crabs are golden

brown, turn them over and cook for another 2 minutes. Drain on clean brown paper bagsand eat hot.


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