8/6/2019 Recipes From Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking

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8/6/2019 Recipes From Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking

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8/6/2019 Recipes From Arthur Schwartz's Jewish Home Cooking

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Copyright © 2008 by Arthur SchwartzPhotography © 2008 by Ben Fink

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, animprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc.,New York.www.crownpublishing.comwww.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarksof Random House, Inc.

Photograph page vi used by permission of New York Public Library.Photograph page xii © Time-Life Pictures/Getty Images.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data on le with the publisher.

ISBN: 978-1-58008-898-5

Printed in China

Jacket design by Nancy Austin and Chloe RawlinsInterior design by Chloe RawlinsFood styling by Megan Fawn Schlow

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition

For my sister, Andrea, and her children,Rachel and Brian. A little legacy.

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Passover 177

Serves 2

3 matzo boards8 cups boiling water4 or 5 eggs1/4 to 1/ 2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons butter, Schmaltz (page 9)or grapeseed oil (which is kosher forPassover, not peanut, corn, or canola)

Freshly ground black pepper, for seasoningPreserves, jam, or sour cream, for

accompaniment

Matzo Brei

Fried Matzo

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hMatzo brei is so popular in New York City that we have had citywide, sensation-ally media-covered matzo brei contests to see which person or restaurant makesit the best. It is basically a dish of dampened, broken matzo mixed with eggs andfried. However, every ingredient, every method and technique, is open to debateby New York Jews and Gentiles alike, who all think their method, or, in any case,the kind of matzo brei they grew up eating at home or in the homes of Jewishfriends, is the best.

I say my matzo brei beats all.

Into a colander set in your sink, break the matzo into more or less 1-inchpieces.

Very, very slowly, pour the boiling water over the matzo, wetting it downwell, then let it stand for a few minutes to drain well and to plump up.

In a bowl, beat the eggs together with the salt. Add the wet matzo and mix well.In a 10-inch skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When sizzling,

add the egg-matzo mixture. Immediately decrease the heat to medium-low.(Slow-cooking the eggs gives them a more custard-like consistency.)

When the bottom of the mixture starts to set, break it up by dragging itaround the pan, from the outside edge to the center. Once the bottom is cooked,turn the mixture gently with a spatula. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes all together, untilthe matzo brei cooks evenly and is as moist (or as dry) as you like.

Serve hot, with some freshly ground pepper and with preserves, jam, or sourcream.

Shmurah matzo (see page 172)

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Passover 187

Makes one 12- by 15-inch sheet

4 to 6 unsalted matzo boards1 cup unsalted butter or unsalted

pareve margarine1 cup rmly packed Passover

brown sugar

12 ounces semisweet Passoverchocolate chips, or semisweetchocolate, coarsely chopped

Matzo Buttercrunch

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This recipe was created by Marcy Goldman of Montreal and was published inher book A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking . She had disseminated it long beforethat, however, on her website, www.BetterBaking.com. Now I see it published(unfortunately not credited) in New York City newspapers and national maga-zines, and passed around by New Yorkers who claim it as their own. Taking creditfor this confection where it is not due is understandable. The recipe is fabulous,although over the years, I have added more chocolate to Marcy’s recipe, and Ihave changed the directions slightly. Marcy’s inspiration was a standard old Ameri-can recipe that uses soda crackers to make a similar candy, but without the choco-

late and nuts.The recipe is sublime when made with butter, but then it would not be

possible to serve it at the usually meat-based seder meal. It still tastes pretty wonder-ful when made with unsalted pareve Passover margarine.

Preheat the oven to 375˚F. Line a baking sheet completely with aluminumfoil. Lay parchment paper on top of the foil. This is very important, as the mixturebecomes sticky during baking.

Line the bottom of the pan evenly with the matzo boards, cutting extra piecesof matzo, as required, to t any uncovered spaces.

In a 3-quart, heavy saucepan, combine the butter and brown sugar and cookover medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil. Continue

boiling 3 more minutes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and immedi-ately pour over the matzo.Place the matzo candy in the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 350˚F.

Bake for 15 minutes, checking after 10 minutes to make sure the mixture is not

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188 ARTHUR SCHWARTZ’S JEWISH HOME COOKING

burning. Remove from the oven and immediately sprinkle the matzo with choppedchocolate. Let stand 5 minutes, then, with an offset spatula, spread the meltedchocolate evenly over the matzo.

While still warm, cut the candy into squares or odd shapes. I just break it intopieces. Chill in the refrigerator until set. Covered tightly with plastic, it should keepfor several weeks in the refrigerator. Bring back to room temperature to serve.

Variations

• Use white chocolate (which is dairy), coarsely chopped (or both white anddark chocolates).

• Sprinkle chopped toasted nuts—almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, or pecans—overthe chocolate.

• If you prefer granulated sugar, or if you can’t nd kosher for Passover brownsugar, follow these directions for a no-bake version: Arrange the matzo on thelined baking sheet as described in the recipe. Place 2 cups granulated sugarand 2 tablespoons water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan. Heat on medium-low until the sugar dissolves. Continue cooking until the mixture turnsmedium amber in color. Pour over the matzo. Sprinkle with chocolate andspread as directed.

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