rambles in the mammoth cave

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RAMBLES IN THE MAMMOTH CAVE DURING THE YEAR 1844, BY A VISITER. LOUISVILLE, KY.: MORTON & GRISWOLD. 1845.

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Page 1: Rambles in the Mammoth Cave

RAMBLESIN THE

MAMMOTH CAVEDURING THE YEAR 1844,

BY A VISITER.

LOUISVILLE, KY.:MORTON & GRISWOLD.

1845.

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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year1845, by

MORTON & GRISWOLD,in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Kentucky.

Printed by Morton & Griswold

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PUBLISHER'S ADVERTISEMENT.

To meet the calls so frequently made upon us byintelligent visiters to our City, for some workdescriptive of the Mammoth Cave, we are, at length,enabled to present the public a succinct, butinstructive narrative of a visit to this "Wonder ofWonders," from the pen of a gentleman, who, withoutprofessing to have explored ALL that is curious orbeautiful or sublime in its vast recesses, has yetseen every thing that has been seen by others, andhas described enough to quicken and enlighten thecuriosity of those who have never visited it.

Aware of the embarrassment which mostpersons experience who design visiting the Cave,owing to the absence of any printed itinerary of thevarious routes leading to it, we have supplied, in thepresent volume, this desideratum, from informationreceived from reliable persons residing on thedifferent roads here enumerated. The road fromLouisville to the Cave, and thence to Nashville, isgraded the entire distance, and the greater part of itM'Adamized. From Louisville to the mouth of Salt

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river, twenty miles, the country is level, with a richalluvial soil, probably at some former period the bedof a lake. A few miles below the former place andextending to the latter, a chain of elevated hills isseen to the South-East, affording beautiful andpicturesque situations for country seats, andstrangely overlooked by the rich and tasteful. Theriver is crossed by a ferry, and the traveler is putdown at a comfortable inn in the village of WestPoint. Two miles from the mouth of Salt river, beginsthe ascent of Muldrow's Hill. The road is excellent,and having elevated hills on either side, is highlyromantic to its summit, five miles. From the top ofthis hill to Elizabethtown, the country is well settled,though the improvements are generally indifferent—the soil thin, but well adapted to small-grain, and oakthe prevailing growth. Elizabethtown, twenty-fivemiles from the mouth of Salt river, is quite a prettyand flourishing village, built chiefly of brick, withseveral churches and three large inns. From thisplace to Nolin creek, the distance is ten miles. Herethere is a small town, containing some ten or twelvelog houses, a large saw and grist mill, and acomfortable and very neat inn, kept by Mr. Mosher.

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comfortable and very neat inn, kept by Mr. Mosher.Immediately after crossing this creek, the travelerenters "Yankee Street," as the inhabitants style thissection of the road. For a distance of ten or twelvemiles from Nolin toward Bacon creek, the landbelongs, or did belong to the former PostmasterGeneral, Gideon Granger, and on either side of theroad, to the extent of Mr. G.'s possessions, aresettlements made by emigrants from New York andthe New England States. From Bacon creek toMunfordsville, eight miles, the country is pleasantlyundulating, and here, indeed the whole route fromElizabethtown to the Cave, passes through what wasuntil recently a Prairie, or, in the language of thecountry, "Barrens," and renders it highly interesting,especially to the botanist, from the multitude andvariety of flowers with which it abounds during theSpring and Autumn months. Munfordsville, andWoodsonville directly opposite, are situated onGreen river, on high and broken ground. They aresmall places, in each of which, however, arecomfortable inns. Boats laden with tobacco andother produce, descend from this point and from aconsiderable distance above, to New Orleans.

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About two and a half miles beyond Munfordsville, thenew State road to the Cave, (virtually made by Dr.Croghan, at a great expense,) leaves the Turnpike,and joins it again at the Dripping Springs, eightmiles below, on the route to Nashville. This road, ingoing from Louisville to Nashville, is not only theshortest by three and a half miles, but to the Cave itis from ten to twelve miles shorter than the one takenby visiters previous to its construction. It thereforelessens the inconvenience, delay and consequentexpense to which travelers were formerly subjected.The road itself is an excellent one, the countrythrough which it passes highly picturesque, and Dr.Croghan has entitled himself to the gratitude of thetraveling community by his liberality and enterprise inconstructing it.

Persons visiting the Cave by Steamer, (a boatleaves Louisville for Bowling-Green every week) willfind much to interest them in the admirable locks anddams, rendering the navigation of Green river safeand good at all seasons for boats of a large class.Passengers can obtain conveyances at all times andat moderate rates, from Bowling-Green, by theDripping Spring, to the Cave, distant twenty-two

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miles. Fifteen miles of this road is M'Adamized, theremainder is graded and not inferior to the finishedportion. The last eight miles from the DrippingSpring to the Cave, cannot fail to excite theadmiration of every one who delights in beholdingwild and beautiful scenery. A visit to the CedarSprings on this route, is alone worth a journey ofmany miles. Passengers on the upper turnpike, fromBardstown to Nashville, can, on reaching Glasgow,at all times procure conveyances to the Cave, eitherby Bell's or by Prewett's Knob.

Arrived at the Cave, the visiter alights at aspacious hotel, the general arrangements,attendance and cuisine of which, are adapted to themost fastidious taste. He feels that as far as the"creature comforts" are necessary to enjoyment, theprospect is full of promise; nor will he bedisappointed. And now, this first and most importantpreliminary to a traveler settled to his perfect content,he may remain for weeks and experience dailygratification, "Stephen his guide," in wanderingthrough some of its two hundred and twenty-sixavenues—in gazing, until he is oppressed with thefeeling of their magnificence, at some of its forty-

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seven domes,—in listening, until their drowsymurmurs pain the sense, to some of its many water-falls,—or haply intent upon discovery, he hails somenew vista, or fretted roof, or secret river, orunsounded lake, or crystal fountain, with as muchrapture as Balboa, from "that peak in Darien," gazedon the Pacific; he is assured that he "has a poet,"and an historian too. Stephen has linked his name todome, or avenue, or river, and it is already immortal—in the Cave.

Independent of the attractions to be found in theCave, there is much above ground to gratify thedifferent tastes of visiters. There is a capacious ball-room, ninety feet by thirty, with a fine band of music,—a ten-pin alley,—romantic walks and carriage-drives in all directions, rendered easy of access bythe fine road recently finished. The many rare andbeautiful flowers in the immediate vicinity of theCave, invite to exercise, and bouquets as exquisiteas were ever culled in garden or green-house, maybe obtained even as late as August. The fine sportthe neighborhood affords to the hunter and theangler—Green river, just at hand, offers such "storeof fish," as father Walton or his son and disciple

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of fish," as father Walton or his son and discipleCotton, were they alive again, would love to meditateand angle in!—and the woods! Capt. Scott orChristopher North himself, might grow weary of thesight of game, winged or quadruped.

C.

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INTERESTING FACTS.

1. Accidents of no kind have ever occurred in theMammoth Cave.

2. Visiters, going in or coming out of the Cave,are not liable to contract colds; on the contrary,colds are commonly relieved by a visit in theCave.

3. No impure air exists in any part of the Cave.4. Reptiles, of no description, have ever been

seen in the Cave; on the contrary, they, as wellas quadrupeds, avoid it.

5. Combustion is perfect in all parts of the Cave.6. Decomposition and consequent putrefaction

are unobservable in all parts of the Cave.7. The water of the Cave is of the purest kind;

and, besides fresh water, there are one or twosulphur springs.

8. There are two hundred and twenty-six Avenuesin the Cave; forty-seven Domes; eightCataracts, and twenty-three Pits.

9. The temperature of the Cave is 59°Fahrenheit, and remains so, uniformly, winter

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and summer.10. No sound, not even the loudest peal of thunder,

is heard one quarter of a mile in the Cave.

The author of "Rambles in the Mammoth Cave," haswritten a scientific account of the Cave, embracingits Geology, Mineralogy, etc., which we could not, intime, insert in this publication.

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.Mammoth Cave—Where Situated—Green River—Improved NavigationRange of Highlands—BeautifulWoodlands—Hotel—Romantic Dell—Mouth of theCave—Coldness of the Air—Lamps Lighted—Bones of a Giant—Violence of the Wind—LampsExtinguished—Temperature of the Cave—LampsRelighted—First Hopper—Grand Vestibule—Glowing Description—Audubon Avenue—Little BatRoom—Pit two hundred and eighty feet deep—MainCave—Kentucky Cliffs—The Church SecondHopper—Extent of the Saltpetre Manufacture in1814.

CHAPTER II.Gothic Gallery—Gothic Avenue—Good Road—Mummies—Interesting Account of Them—GothicAvenue, once called Haunted Chamber—Why sonamed—Adventure of a Miner in former days.

CHAPTER III.

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Stalagmite Pillars—The Bell—Vulcan's Furnace—Register Rooms—Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel—Devil's Arm-Chair—Elephant's Head—Lover'sLeap—Napoleon's Dome—Salts Cave—Annetti'sDome.

CHAPTER IV.The Ball-Room—Willie's Spring—Wandering Willie—Ox-Stalls—Giant's Coffin—Acute-Angle or GreatBend—Range of Cabins—Curative Properties ofthe Cave Air long known.

CHAPTER V.Star Chamber—Salts Room—Indian Houses—Cross Rooms—Black Chambers—A Dinner Party—Humble Chute—Solitary Cave—Fairy Grotto—ChiefCity or Temple—Lee's Description—Return to theHotel.

CHAPTER VI.Arrival of a large Party—Second Visit—LampsExtinguished—Laughable Confusion—WoodenBowl—Deserted Chambers—Richardson's Spring—Side-Saddle Pit—The Labyrinth—Louisa's Dome

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—Side-Saddle Pit—The Labyrinth—Louisa's Dome—Gorin's Dome—Bottomless Pit—Separation ofour Party.

CHAPTER VII.Pensico Avenue—Great Crossings—Pine AppleBush—Angelica's Grotto Winding Way—Fat Friendin Trouble—Relief Hall—Bacon Chamber BanditsHall.

CHAPTER VIII.Mammoth Dome—First Discoverers—Little Dave—Tale of a Lamp—Return.

CHAPTER IX.Third Visit—River Hall—Dead Sea—River Styx—Lethe—Echo River—Purgatory—Eyeless Fish—Supposed Level of the Rivers—Sources and OutletUnknown.

CHAPTER X.Pass of El Ghor—Silliman's Avenue—Wellington'sGallery—Sulphur Spring—Mary's Vineyard—HolySepulchre—Commencement of Cleveland Avenue

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—By whom Discovered—Beautiful Formations—Snow-ball Room—Rocky Mountains—Croghan'sHall—Serena's Arbor—Dining Table—Dinner Partyand Toast—Hoax of the Guide—Homeward BoundPassage—Conclusion.

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CHAPTER I.

Mammoth Cave—Where Situated—Green River—ImprovedNavigation—Range of Highlands—Beautiful Woodlands—Hotel—Romantic Dell—Mouth of the Cave—Coldness of the Air—LampsLighted—Bones of a Giant—Violence of the Wind—LampsExtinguished—Temperature of the Cave—Lamps Lighted—FirstHoppers—Grand Vestibule—Glowing Description—AudubonAvenue—Little Bat Room—Pit Two—Hundred and Eighty FeetDeep—Main Cave—Kentucky Cliffs—The Church—SecondHoppers—Extent of the Saltpetre Manufacture in 1814.

The Mammoth Cave is situated in the County ofEdmondson and State of Kentucky, equidistant fromthe cities of Louisville and Nashville, (about ninetymiles from each,) and immediately upon the nearestroad between those two places. Green River iswithin half a mile of the Cave, and since theimprovements in its navigation, by the construction oflocks and dams, steamboats can, at all seasons,ascend to Bowling Green, distant but twenty-twomiles, and, for the greater part of the year, to theCave itself.

In going to the Cave from Munfordsville, you willobserve a lofty range of barren highlands to the

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North, which approaches nearer and nearer theCave as you advance, until it reaches to within a mileof it. This range of highlands or cliffs, composed ofcalcareous rock, pursuing its rectilinear course, isseen the greater part of the way as you proceed ontowards Bowling Green; and, at last, looses itself inthe counties below. Under this extensive range ofcliffs it is conjectured that the great subterraneanterritory mainly extends itself.

For a distance of two miles from the Cave, asyou approach it from the South-East, the country islevel. It was, until recently, a prairie, on which,however, the oak, chestnut and hickory are nowgrowing; and having no underbrush, its smooth,verdant openings present, here and there, no unaptresemblance to the parks of the English nobility.

Emerging from these beautiful woodlands, yousuddenly have a view of the hotel and adjacentgrounds, which is truly lovely and picturesque. Thehotel is a large edifice, two hundred feet long byforty-five wide, with piazzas, sixteen feet wide,extending the whole length of the building, bothabove and below, well furnished, and kept in a style,by Mr. Miller, that cannot fail to please the most

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fastidious epicure.The Cave is about two-hundred yards from the

hotel, and you proceed to it down a lovely andromantic dell, rendered umbrageous by a forest oftrees and grape vines; and passing by the ruins ofsaltpetre furnaces and large mounds of ashes, youturn abruptly to the right and behold the mouth of thegreat cavern and as suddenly feel the coldness of itsair.

It is an appalling spectacle,—how dark, howdismal, how dreary. Descending some thirty feetdown rather rude steps of stone, you are fairly underthe arch of this "nether world "—before you, inlooking outwards, is seen a small stream of waterfalling from the face of the crowning rock, with a wildpattering sound, upon the ruins below, anddisappearing in a deep pit,—behind you, all isgloom and darkness!

Let us now follow the guide—who, placing onhis back a canteen of oil, lights the lamps, and givingone to each person, we commence oursubterranean journey; having determined to confineourselves, for this day, to an examination of some ofthe avenues on this side of the rivers, and to resume,

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on a future occasion, our visit to the fairy scenesbeyond. I emphasize the word some of the avenues,because no visiter has ever yet seen one in twenty;and, although I shall attempt to describe only a few ofthem, and in so doing will endeavor to representthings as I saw them, and as they impressed me, Iam not the less apprehensive that my descriptionswill appear as unbounded exaggerations, sowonderfully vast is the Cave, so singular itsformations, and so unique its characteristics.

At the place where our lamps were lighted, areto be seen the wooden pipes which conducted thewater, as it fell from the ceiling, to the vats orsaltpetre hoppers; and near this spot too, areinterred the bones of a giant, of such vast size is theskeleton, at least of such portions of it as remain.With regard to this giant, or more properly skeleton,it may be well to state, that it was found by thesaltpetre workers far within the Cave years ago, andwas buried by their employer where it now lies, toquiet their superstitious fears, not however before itwas bereft of its head by some fearless antiquary.

Proceeding onward about one-hundred feet, wereached a door, set in a rough stone wall, stretched

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reached a door, set in a rough stone wall, stretchedacross and completely blocking up the Cave; whichwas no sooner opened, than our lamps wereextinguished by the violence of the wind rushingoutwards. An accurate estimate of the externaltemperature, may at any time, be made, by notingthe force of the wind as it blows inward or outward.When it is very warm without, the wind blowsoutwards with violence; but when cold, it blowsinwards with proportionate force. The temperature ofthe Cave, (winter and summer,) is invariably thesame—59° Fahrenheit; and its atmosphere isperfectly uniform, dry, and of most extraordinarysalubrity.

Our lamps being relighted, we soon reached anarrow passage faced on the left side by a wall, builtby the miners to confine the loose stone thrown up inthe course of their operations, when graduallydescending a short distance, we entered the greatvestibule or ante-chamber of the Cave. "What do wenow see? Midnight!—the blackness of darkness!—Nothing! Where is the wall we were lately elbowingout of the way? It has vanished!—It is lost! We arewalled in by darkness, and darkness canopies us

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above. Look again;—Swing your torches aloft! Aye,now you can see it; far up, a hundred feet above yourhead, a grey ceiling rolling dimly away like a cloud,and heavy buttresses, bending under the weight,curling and toppling over their base, begin to projecttheir enormous masses from the shadowy wall. Howvast! How solemn! How awful! The little bells of thebrain are ringing in your ears; you hear nothing else—not even a sigh of air—not even the echo of a dropof water falling from the roof. The guide triumphs inyour look of amazement and awe; he falls to work oncertain old wooden ruins, to you, yet invisible, andbuilds a brace or two of fires, by the aid of which youbegin to have a better conception of the scenearound you. You are in the vestibule or ante-chamber, to which the spacious entrance of theCave, and the narrow passage that succeeds it,should be considered the mere gate-way andcovered approach. It is a basilica of an oval figure—two-hundred feet in length by one-hundred and fiftywide, with a roof which is as flat and level as iffinished by the trowel of the plasterer, of fifty or sixtyor even more feet in height. Two passages, each ahundred feet in width, open into it at its opposite

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extremities, but at right angles to each other; and asthey preserve a straight course for five or six-hundred feet, with the same flat roof common toeach, the appearance to the eye, is that of a vast hallin the shape of the letter L expanded at the angle,both branches being five-hundred feet long by one-hundred wide. The passage to the right hand is the"Great Bat Room;" (Audubon Avenue.) That in thefront, the beginning of the Grand Gallery, or the MainCavern itself. The whole of this prodigious space iscovered by a single rock, in which the eye can detectno break or interruption, save at its borders, where isa broad, sweeping cornice, traced in horizontalpanel-work, exceedingly noble and regular; and not asingle pier or pillar of any kind contributes to supportit. It needs no support. It is like the arched andponderous roof of the poet's mausoleum:

"By its own weight made stedfast andimmoveable."

The floor is very irregularly broken, consisting ofvast heaps of the nitrous earth, and of the ruins of thehoppers or vats, composed of heavy planking, inwhich the miners were accustomed to leach it. Thehall was, in fact, one of their chief factory rooms.

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Before their day, it was a cemetery; and here theydisinterred many a mouldering skeleton, belonging itseems, to that gigantic eight or nine feet race of menof past days, whose jaw-bones so many vivaciouspersons have clapped over their own, like horse-collars, without laying by a single one to convince thesoul of scepticism.

"Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave,—a hall which hundreds of visiters have passedthrough without being conscious of its existence.The path, leading into the Grand Gallery, hugs thewall on the left hand; and is, besides, in a hollow,flanked on the right hand by lofty mounds of earth,which the visiter, if he looks at them at all, which hewill scarcely do, at so early a period after entering,will readily suppose to be the opposite walls. Thosewho enter the Great Bat Room, (Audubon Avenue,)into which flying visiters are seldom conducted, willindeed have some faint suspicion, for a moment,that they are passing through infinite space; but thewalls of the Cave being so dark as to reflect not onesingle ray of light from the dim torches, and agreater number of them being necessary todisperse the gloom than are usually employed,

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disperse the gloom than are usually employed,they will still remain in ignorance of the grandeuraround them."

Such is the vestibule of the Mammoth Cave, asdescribed by the ingenious author of "Calavar,""Peter Pilgrim," &c.

From the vestibule we entered AudubonAvenue, which is more than a mile long, fifty or sixtyfeet wide and as many high. The roof or ceilingexhibits, as you walk along, the appearance offloating clouds—and such is observable in manyother parts of the Cave. Near the termination of thisavenue, a natural well, twenty-five feet deep, andcontaining the purest water, has been recentlydiscovered; it is surrounded by stalagmite columns,extending from the floor to the roof, upon theincrustations of which, when lights are suspended,the reflection from the water below and the variousobjects above and around, gives to the whole scenean appearance equally rare and picturesque. Thisspot, however, being difficult of access, is butseldom visited.

The Little Bat Room Cave—a branch ofAudubon Avenue,—is on the left as you advance,

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and not more than three-hundred yards from thegreat vestibule. It is but little more than a quarter of amile in length, and is remarkable for its pit of two-hundred and eighty feet in depth; and as being thehibernal resort of bats. Tens of thousands of themare seen hanging from the walls, in apparently atorpid state, during the winter, but no sooner doesthe spring open, than they disappear.

Returning from the Little Bat Room andAudubon Avenue, we pass again through thevestibule, and enter the Main Cave or Grand Gallery.This is a vast tunnel extending for miles, averagingthroughout, fifty feet in width by as many in height. Itis truly a noble subterranean avenue; the largest ofwhich man has any knowledge, and replete withinterest, from its varied characteristics and majesticgrandeur.

Proceeding down the main Cave about aquarter of a mile, we came to the Kentucky Cliffs, socalled from the fancied resemblance to the cliffs onthe Kentucky River, and descending gradually abouttwenty feet entered the church, when our guide wasdiscovered in the pulpit fifteen feet above us, havingreached there by a gallery which leads from the cliffs.

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The ceiling here is sixty three feet high, and thechurch itself, including the recess, cannot be lessthan one hundred feet in diameter. Eight or ten feetabove and immediately behind the pulpit, is theorgan loft, which is sufficiently capacious for anorgan and choir of the largest size. There wouldappear to be something like design in all this;—hereis a church large enough to accomodate thousands,a solid projection of the wall of the Cave to serve asa pulpit, and a few feet back a place for an organand choir. In this great temple of nature, religiousservice has been frequently held, and it requires buta slight effort on the part of a speaker, to makehimself distinctly heard by the largest congregation.

Sometimes the guides climb up the high andragged sides, and suspend lamps in the crevicesand on the projections of the rock, thus lighting up ascene of wild grandeur and sublimity.

Concerts too have been held here, and themelody of song has been heard, such as woulddelight the ear of a Catalini or a Malibran.

Leaving the church you will observe, onascending, a large embankment of lixiviated earththrown out by the miners more than thirty years ago,

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the print of wagon wheels and the tracks of oxen, asdistinctly defined as though they were made butyesterday; and continuing on for a short distance,you arrive at the Second Hoppers. Here are seenthe ruins of the old nitre works, leaching vats, pumpframes and two lines of wooden pipes; one to leadfresh water from the dripping spring to the vats filledwith the nitrous earth, and the other to convey the lyedrawn from the large reservoir, back to the furnace atthe mouth of the Cave.

The quantity of nitrous earth contained in theCave is "sufficient to supply the whole population ofthe globe with saltpetre."

"The dirt gives from three to five pounds ofnitrate of lime to the bushel, requiring a largeproportion of fixed alkali to produce the requiredcrystalization, and when left in the Cave become re-impregnated in three years. When saltpetre bore ahigh price, immense quantities were manufacturedat the Mammoth Cave, but the return of peacebrought the saltpetre from the East Indies incompetition with the American, and drove that of theproduce of our country entirely from the market. Anidea may be formed of the extent of the manufacture

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idea may be formed of the extent of the manufactureof saltpetre at this Cave, from the fact that thecontract for the supply of the fixed alkali alone for theCave, for the year 1814, was twenty thousanddollars."

"The price of the article was so high, and theprofits of the manufacturer so great, as to set half thewestern world gadding after nitre caves—the goldmines of the day. Cave hunting in fact became akind of mania, beginning with speculators, andending with hair brained young men, who dared forthe love of adventure the risk which others ran forprofit." Every hole, remarked an old miner, the sizeof a man's body, has been penetrated for milesaround the Mammoth Cave, but although we found"petre earth," we never could find a cave worthhaving.

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CHAPTER II.

Gothic Gallery—Gothic Avenue—Good Road—Mummies—Interesting Account of Them—Gothic Avenue once called HauntedChamber—Why so Named—Adventure of a Miner in Former Days.

In looking from the ruins of the nitre works, to the leftand some thirty feet above, you will see a large cave,connected with which is a narrow gallery sweepingacross the Main Cave and losing itself in a cave,which is seen above to your right. This latter cave isthe Gothic Avenue, which no doubt was at one timeconnected with the cave opposite and on the samelevel, forming a complete bridge over the mainavenue, but afterwards broken down and separatedby some great convulsion.

The cave on the left, which is filled with sand,has been penetrated but a short distance; still fromits great size at its entrance, it is more thanprobable, that, were all obstructions removed, itmight be found to extend for miles.

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Entrance to the Gothic Avenue.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

While examining the old saltpetre works, theguide left us without our being aware of it, butcasting our eyes around we perceived him standingsome forty feet above, on the projection of a hugerock, or tower, which commands a view of the grandgallery to a great extent both up and down.

Leaving the Main Cave and ascending a flightof stairs twenty or thirty feet, we entered the GothicAvenue, so named from the Gothic appearance ofsome of its compartments. This avenue is about fortyfeet wide, fifteen feet high and two miles long. Theceiling looks in many places as smooth and white asthough it had been under the trowel of the most skilfulplasterer. A good road has been made throughoutthis cave, and such is the temperature and purity ofits atmosphere, that every visiter must experiencetheir salutary influences.

In a recess on the left hand elevated a few feetabove the floor and about fifty feet from the head ofthe stairs leading up from the Main Avenue, twomummies long since taken away, were to be seen in

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1813. They were in good preservation; one was afemale with her extensive wardrobe placed beforeher. The removal of those mummies from the placein which they were found can be viewed as little lessthan sacrilege. There they had been, perhaps forcenturies, and there they ought to have been left.What has become of them I know not. One of them, itis said, was lost in the burning of the Cincinnatimuseum. The wardrobe of the female was given to aMr. Ward, of Massachusetts, who I believepresented it to the British Museum.

Two of the miners found a mummy in AudubonAvenue, in 1814. With a view to conceal it for a time,they placed large stones over it, and marked thewalls about the spot so that they might find it at somefuture period; this however, they were never able toeffect. In 1840, the present hotel keeper Mr. Miller,learning the above facts, went in search of the placedesignated, taking with him very many lights, andfound the marks on the walls, and near to them themummy. It was, however, so much injured andbroken to pieces by the heavy weights which hadbeen placed upon it, as to be of little interest orvalue. I have no doubt, that if proper efforts were

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made, mummies and other objects of curiosity mightbe found, which would tend to throw light on the earlyhistory of the first inhabitants of this continent.

Believing, that whatever may relate to thesemummies cannot fail to interest, I will extract from therecently published narrative of a highly scientificgentleman of New York, himself one of the earlyvisiters to the Cave.

"On my first visit to the Mammoth Cave in 1813,I saw a relic of ancient times, which requires aminute description. This description is from amemorandum made in the Cave at the time.

In the digging of saltpetre earth, in the shortcave, a flat rock was met with by the workmen, a littlebelow the surface of the earth in the Cave; this stonewas raised, and was about four feet wide and asmany long; beneath it was a square excavationabout three feet deep and as many in length andwidth. In this small nether subterranean chamber, satin solemn silence one of the human species, afemale with her wardrobe and ornaments placed ather side. The body was in a state of perfectpreservation, and sitting erect. The arms were foldedup and the hands were laid across the bosom;

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around the two wrists was wound a small cord,designed probably, to keep them in the posture inwhich they were first placed; around the body andnext thereto, was wrapped two deer-skins. Theseskins appear to have been dressed in some modedifferent from what is now practised by any people,of whom I have any knowledge. The hair of the skinswas cut off very near the surface. The skins wereornamented with the imprints of vines and leaves,which were sketched with a substance perfectlywhite. Outside of these two skins was a large squaresheet, which was either wove or knit. This fabric wasthe inner bark of a tree, which I judge fromappearances to be that of the linn tree. In its textureand appearance, it resembled the South Sea Islandcloth or matting; this sheet enveloped the whole bodyand the head. The hair on the head was cut off withinan eighth of an inch of the skin, except near the neck,where it was an inch long. The color of the hair was adark red; the teeth were white and perfect. Idiscovered no blemish upon the body, except awound between two ribs near the back-bone; one ofthe eyes had also been injured. The finger and toenails were perfect and quite long. The features were

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nails were perfect and quite long. The features wereregular. I measured the length of one of the bones ofthe arm with a string, from the elbow to the wrist joint,and they equalled my own in length, viz: ten and ahalf inches. From the examination of the wholeframe, I judged the figure to be that of a very tallfemale, say five feet ten inches in height. The body,at the time it was first discovered, weighed butfourteen pounds, and was perfectly dry; on exposureto the atmosphere, it gained in weight by absorbingdampness four pounds. Many persons haveexpressed surprise that a human body of great sizeshould weigh so little, as many human skeletons ofnothing but bone, exceed this weight. Recently someexperiments have been made in Paris, which havedemonstrated the fact of the human body beingreduced to ten pounds, by being exposed to aheated atmosphere for a long period of time. Thecolor of the skin was dark, not black; the flesh washard and dry upon the bones. At the side of the bodylay a pair of moccasins, a knapsack and anindispensable or reticule. I will describe these in theorder in which I have named them. The moccasinswere made of wove or knit bark, like the wrapper I

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have described. Around the top there was a borderto add strength and perhaps as an ornament. Thesewere of middling size, denoting feet of small size.The shape of the moccasins differs but little from thedeer-skin moccasins worn by the Northern Indians.The knapsack was of wove or knit bark, with a deep,strong border around the top, and was about the sizeof knapsacks used by soldiers. The workmanship ofit was neat, and such as would do credit as a fabric,to a manufacturer of the present day. The reticulewas also made of knit or wove bark. The shape wasmuch like a horseman's valise, opening its wholelength on the top. On the side of the opening and afew inches from it, were two rows of hoops, one rowon each side. Two cords were fastened to one endof the reticule at the top, which passed through theloop on one side and then on the other side, thewhole length, by which it was laced up and secured.The edges of the top of the reticule werestrengthened with deep fancy borders. The articlescontained in the knapsack and reticule were quitenumerous, and are as follows: one head cap, madeof wove or knit bark, without any border, and of theshape of the plainest night cap; seven head-dresses

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made of the quills of large birds, and put togethersomewhat in the same way that feather fans aremade, except that the pipes of the quills are notdrawn to a point, but are spread out in straight lineswith the top. This was done by perforating the pipe ofthe quill in two places and running two cords throughthese holes, and then winding around the quills andthe cord, fine thread, to fasten each quill in the placedesigned for it. These cords extended some lengthbeyond the quills on each side, so that on placing thefeathers erect on the head, the cords could be tiedtogether at the back of the head. This would enablethe wearer to present a beautiful display of feathersstanding erect and extending a distance above thehead, and entirely surrounding it. These were mostsplendid head dresses, and would be a magnificentornament to the head of a female at the present day,—several hundred strings of beads; these consistedof a very hard brown seed smaller than hemp seed,in each of which a small hole had been made, andthrough this hole a small three corded thread, similarin appearance and texture to seine twine; thesewere tied up in bunches, as a merchant ties up coralbeads when he exposes them for sale. The red

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hoofs of fawns, on a string supposed to be wornaround the neck as a necklace. These hoofs wereabout twenty in number, and may have beenemblematic of Innocence; the claw of an eagle, witha hole made in it, through which a cord was passed,so that it could be worn pendent from the neck; thejaw of a bear designed to be worn in the samemanner as the eagle's claw, and supplied with acord to suspend it around the neck; two rattlesnake-skins, one of these had fourteen rattles upon it, thesewere neatly folded up; some vegetable colors doneup in leaves; a small bunch of deer sinews,resembling cat-gut in appearance; several bunchesof thread and twine, two and three threaded, some ofwhich were nearly white; seven needles, some ofthese were of horn and some of bone, they weresmooth and appeared to have been much used.These needles had each a knob or whirl on the top,and at the other end were brought to a point like alarge sail needle. They had no eyelets to receive athread. The top of one of these needles washandsomely scalloped; a hand-piece made of deer-skin, with a hole through it for the thumb, anddesigned probably to protect the hand in the use of

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designed probably to protect the hand in the use ofthe needle, the same as thimbles are now used; twowhistles about eight inches long made of cane, witha joint about one third the length; over the joint is anopening extending to each side of the tube of thewhistle, these openings were about three-fourths ofan inch long and a quarter of an inch wide, and hadeach a flat reed placed in the opening. Thesewhistles were tied together with a cord woundaround them.

I have been thus minute in describing the mutewitness from the days of other times, and the articleswhich were deposited within her earthen house. Ofthe race of people to whom she belonged whenliving, we know nothing; and as to conjecture, thereader who gathers from these pages this account,can judge of the matter as well as those who saw theremnant of mortality in the subterranean chambers inwhich she was entombed. The cause of thepreservation of her body, dress and ornaments is nomystery. The dry atmosphere of the Cave, with thenitrate of lime, with which the earth that covers thebottom of these nether palaces is so highlyimpregnated, preserves animal flesh, and it will

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neither putrify nor decompose when confined to itsunchanging action. Heat and moisture are bothabsent from the Cave, and it is these two agents,acting together, which produce both animal andvegetable decomposition and putrefaction.

In the ornaments, etc., of this mute witness ofages gone, we have a record of olden time, fromwhich, in the absence of a written record, we maydraw some conclusions. In the various articles whichconstituted her ornaments, there were no metallicsubstances. In the make of her dress, there is noevidence of the use of any other machinery than thebone and horn needles. The beads are of asubstance, of the use of which for such purposes, wehave no account among people of whom we haveany written record. She had no warlike arms. Bywhat process the hair upon her head was cut short,or by what process the deer-skins were shorn, wehave no means of conjecture. These articles affordus the same means of judging of the nation to whichshe belonged, and of their advances in the arts, thatfuture generations will have in the exhumation of atenant of one of our modern tombs, with the funeralshroud, etc. in a state of like preservation; with this

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difference, that with the present inhabitants of thissection of the globe, but few articles of ornament aredeposited with the body. The features of this ancientmember of the human family much resembled thoseof a tall, handsome American woman. The foreheadwas high, and the head well formed."

"Ye mouldering relics of a race departed,Your names have perished; not a trace remains."

The Gothic Avenue was once called theHaunted Chamber, and owed its name to anadventure that befell one of the miners in formerdays, which is thus related by the author of"Calavar."

"In the Lower Branch is a room called the SaltsRoom, which produces considerable quantities ofthe sulphate of magnesia, or of soda, we forgetwhich—a mineral that the proprietor of the Cave didnot fail to turn to account. The miner in question wasa new and raw hand—of course neither very wellacquainted with the Cave itself, nor with theapproved modes of averting or repairing accidents,to which, from the nature of their occupation, the

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miners were greatly exposed. Having been sent, oneday, in charge of an older workman, to the SaltsRoom to dig a few sacks of the salt, and finding thatthe path to this sequestered nook was perfectlyplain; and that, from the Haunted Chambers being asingle, continuous passage without branches, it wasimpossible to wander from it, our hero disdained onhis second visit, to seek or accept assistance, andtrudged off to his work alone. The circumstancebeing common enough he was speedily forgotten byhis brother miners; and it was not until several hoursafter, when they all left off their toil for the moreagreeable duty of eating their dinner, that hisabsence was remarked, and his heroical resolutionto make his way alone to the Salts Roomremembered. As it was apparent, from the time hehad been gone, that some accident must havehappened to him, half a dozen men, most of themnegroes, stripped half naked, their usual workingcostume, were sent to hunt him up, a task supposedto be of no great difficulty, unless he had fallen into apit. In the meanwhile, the poor miner, it seems, hadsucceeded in reaching the Salts Room, filling hissack, and retracing his steps half way back to the

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sack, and retracing his steps half way back to theGrand Gallery; when finding the distance greaterthan he thought it ought to be, the conceit entered hisunlucky brain that he might perhaps be going wrong.No sooner had the suspicion struck him, than he fellinto a violent terror, dropped his sack, ranbackwards, then returned, then ran back again—each time more frightened and bewildered thanbefore; until at last he ended his adventure bytumbling over a stone and extinguishing his lamp.Thus left in the dark, not knowing where to turn,frightened out of his wits besides, he fell toremembering his sins— always remembered bythose who are lost in the Cave—and praying with allhis might for succor. But hours passed away, andassistance came not; the poor fellow's frenzyincreased; he felt himself a doomed man; he thoughthis terrible situation was a judgment imposed on himfor his wickedness; nay, he even believed, at last,that he was no longer an inhabitant of the earth—thathe had been translated, even in the body, to theplace of torment—in other words, that he was in hellitself, the prey of the devils, who would presently belet loose upon him. It was at this moment the miners

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in search of him made their appearance; they lightedupon his sack, lying where he had thrown it, and setup a great shout, which was the first intimation hehad of their approach. He started up, and seeingthem in the distance, the half naked negroes inadvance, all swinging their torches aloft, he, notdoubting they were those identical devils whoseappearance he had been expecting, took to hisheels, yelling lustily for mercy; nor did he stop,notwithstanding the calls of his amazed friends, untilhe had fallen a second time over the rocks, where helay on his face, roaring for pity, until, by dint of muchpulling and shaking, he, was convinced that he wasstill in the world and the Mammoth Cave." Such isthe story of the Haunted Chambers, the name havingbeen given to commemorate the incident.

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CHAPTER III.

Stalagmite Pillars—The Bell—Vulcan's Furnace—RegisterRooms—Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel—Devil's Arm-Chair—Elephant's Head—Lover's Leap—Napoleon's Dome—Salts Cave—Annetti's Dome.

Resuming our explorations in this most interestingavenue, we soon came in sight of stalagmite pillars,reaching from the floor to the ceiling, once perhapswhite and translucent, but now black and begrimedwith smoke. At this point we were startled by thehollow tread of our feet, caused by the proximity ofanother large avenue underneath, which the guideassured us he had often visited. In this neighborhoodtoo, there are a number of Stalactites, one of whichwas called the Bell, which on being struck, soundedlike the deep bell of a cathedral; but it now no longertolls, having been broken in twain by a visiter fromPhiladelphia some years ago. Further on our way,we passed Louisa's Bower and Vulcan's Furnace,where there is a heap, not unlike cinders inappearance, and some dark colored water, in whichI suppose the great forger used to slake his iron and

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perhaps his bolts. Next in order and not very distantare the new and old Register Rooms. Here on theceiling which is as smooth and white as if it hadbeen finished off by the plasterer, thousands ofnames have been traced by the smoke of a candle—names which can create no pleasing associationsor recollections; names unknown to fame, and whichmight excite disgust, when read for the first time onthe ceiling which they have disfigured.

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Stalagmite Hall or Gothic Chapel.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

Soon after leaving the old Register Room, wewere halted by our guide, who took from us all thelamps excepting one. Having made certainarrangements, he cried aloud, "Come on!" which wedid, and in a few moments entered an apartment ofsurprising grandeur and magnificence. Thisapartment or hall is elliptical in shape and eighty feetlong by fifty wide. Stalagmite columns, of vast sizenearly block up the two ends; and two rows of pillarsof smaller dimensions, reaching from floor to ceiling

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and equidistant from the wall on either side, extendits entire length. Against the pillars, and in manyplaces from the ceiling, our lamps were hanging,and, lighting up the whole space, exhibited to ourenraptured sight a scene surpassingly grand, andwell calculated to inspire feelings of solemnity andawe. This is the Stalagmite Hall, or as some call it,the Gothic Chapel, which no one can see under suchcircumstances as did our party, without beingforcibly reminded of the old, very old cathedrals ofEurope. Continuing our walk we came to the Devil'sArm-Chair. This is a large Stalagmite column, in thecentre of which is formed a capacious seat. Likemost other visiters we seated ourselves in the chairof his Satanic Majesty, and drank sulphur waterdipped up from a small basin of rock, near the foot ofthe chair. Further on we passed a number ofStalactites and Stalagmites, Napoleon's Breast-Work, (behind which we found ashes and burntcane,) the Elephant's Head, the Curtain, and arrivedat last at the Lover's Leap. The Lover's Leap is alarge pointed rock projecting over a dark andgloomy hollow, thirty or more feet deep. Our guidetold us that the young ladies often asked their beaux

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to take the Lover's Leap, but that he never knew anyto "love hard enough" to attempt it. We descendedinto the hollow, immediately below the Lover's Leap,and entered to the left and at right-angle with ourprevious course, a passage or chasm in the rock,three feet wide and fifty feet high, which conductedus to the lower branch of the Gothic Avenue. At theentrance of this lower branch is an immensely largeflat rock called Gatewood's Dining Table, to the rightof which is a cave, which we penetrated, as far asthe Cooling Tub—a beautiful basin of water six feetwide and three deep—into which a small stream ofthe purest water pours itself from the ceiling andafterwards finds its way into the Flint Pit at no greatdistance. Returning, we wound around Gatewood'sDining Table, which nearly blocks up the way, andcontinued our walk along the lower branch more thanhalf a mile, passing Napoleon's Dome, the CinderBanks, the Crystal Pool, the Salts Cave, etc., etc.Descending a few feet and leaving the cave whichcontinues onwards, we entered, on our right, a placeof great seclusion and grandeur, called Annetti'sDome. Through a crevice in the right wall of thedome is a waterfall. The water issues in a stream a

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foot in diameter, from a high cave in the side of thedome—falls upon the solid bottom, and passes offby a small channel into the Cistern, which is directlyon the pathway of the cave. The Cistern is a largepit, which is usually kept nearly full of water.

Near the end of this branch, (the lower branch)there is a crevice in the ceiling over the last spring,through which the sound of water may be heardfalling in a cave or open space above.

Highly gratified with what we had now seen inthe Gothic Avenue, we concluded to pursue it nofurther, but to retrace our steps to the Main Cave,regretting however, that we had not visited the SaltsCave, (a branch of the Gothic Avenue,) on beingtold, when too late, that it would have amplycompensated us for our trouble, being rich in finespecimens of Epsom or Glauber salts.

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CHAPTER IV.

The Ball-Room—Willie's Spring—Wandering Willie—Ox-Stalls—Giant's Coffin—Acute-Angle or Great Bend—Range of Cabins—Curative Properties of the Cave Air long known.

We are now again in the Main Cave or Grand Gallery,which continues to increase in interest as weadvance, eliciting from our party frequent and loudexclamations of admiration and wonder. Not manysteps from the stairs leading down from the GothicAvenue into the Main Cave, is the Ball-Room, socalled from its singular adaptedness to such apurpose; for there is an orchestra, fifteen or eighteenfeet high, large enough to accommodate a hundredor more musicians, with a gallery extending back tothe level of the high embankment near the GothicAvenue; besides which, the avenue here is lofty,wide, straight and perfectly level for several hundredfeet. At the trifling expense of a plank floor, seatsand lamps, a ball-room might be had, if not moresplendid, at all events more grand and magnificentthan any other on earth. The effect of music here

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would be truly inspiring; but the awful solemnity of theplace may, in the opinion of many, prevent its beingused as a temple of Terpsichore. Extremes, we aretold, often meet. The same objection has been urgedagainst the Cave's being used for religious services."No clergyman," remarked a distinguished divine,"be he ever so eloquent could concentrate theattention of his congregation in such a place. TheGod of nature speaks too loud here for man to beheard."

Leaving these points to be settled as they may,we will proceed onwards; the road now is broad andfine, and in many places dusty. Next in order isWillie's Spring, a beautifully fluted niche in the lefthand wall, caused by the continual attrition of watertrickling down into a basin below. This spring derivesits name from that of a young gentleman, the son of ahighly respectable clergyman of Cincinnati, who, inthe spirit of romance, assumed the name ofWandering Willie, and taking with him his violin,marched on foot to the Cave. Wishing no betterplace in which to pass the night, he selected thisspot, requesting the guide to call for him in themorning. This he did and found him fast asleep upon

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his bed of earth, with his violin beside him—eversince it has been called Willie's Spring. Just beyondthe spring and near the left wall, is the place wherethe oxen were fed during the time of the miners; andstrewn around are a great many corn-cobs, to allappearance, and in fact, perfectly sound, althoughthey have lain there for more than thirty years. In thisneighborhood is a niche of great size in the wall onthe left, and reaching from the roof to the bottom of apit more than thirty feet deep, down the sides ofwhich, water of the purest kind is continuallydripping, and is afterwards conducted to a largetrough, from which the invalids obtain their supply ofwater, during their sojourn in the Cave. Near thebottom, this pit or well expands into a large room, outof which, there is no opening. It is probable thatRichardson's Spring in the Deserted Chambers issupplied from this well. Passing the Well Cave,Rocky Cave, etc., etc., we arrived at the Giant'sCoffin, a huge rock on the right, thus named from itssingular resemblance in shape to a coffin; its locality,apart from its great size, renders it particularlyconspicuous, as all must pass around it, in leavingthe Main Cave, to visit the rivers and the thousand

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wonders beyond. At this point commence thoseincrustations, which, portraying every imaginablefigure on the ceiling, afford full scope to the fanciful topicture what they will, whether of "birds, or beasts, orcreeping things." About a hundred yards beyond theCoffin, the Cave makes a majestic curve, andsweeping round the Great Bend or Acute-Angle,resumes its general course. Here the guide ignited aBengal light. This vast amphitheatre becameilluminated, and a scene of enchantment wasexposed to our view. Poets may conceive, but nolanguage can describe, the splendor and sublimity ofthe scene. The rapturous exclamations of our partymight have been heard from afar, both up and downthis place of wonders. Opposite to the Great Bend,is the entrance of the Sick Room Cave, so calledfrom the fact of the sudden sickness of a visiter afew years ago, supposed to have been caused byhis smoking, with others, cigars in one of its mostremote and confined nooks. Immediately beyond theGreat Bend, a row of cabins, built for consumptivepatients, commences. All of these are framedbuildings, with the exception of two, which are ofstone. They stand in line, from thirty to one hundred

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stone. They stand in line, from thirty to one hundredfeet apart, exhibiting a picturesque, yet at the sametime, a gloomy and mournful appearance. They arewell furnished, and without question, if good andcomfortable accommodations, pure air and uniformtemperature, could cure the pulmonary consumption,the invalids in the Cave ought to be cured; but I doubtwhether the Cave air or any thing else can cureconfirmed Phthisis. A knowledge of the curativeproperties of the Cave air, is not, as is generallysupposed, of recent date. It has been long known. Aphysician of great respectability, formerly a memberof Congress from the district adjoining the Cave,was so firmly convinced of the medical properties ofits air, as to express more than twenty years ago, ashis opinion, that the State of Kentucky ought topurchase it, with a view to establish a hospital in oneof its avenues. Again the author of "Calavar," himselfa distinguished professor of medicine, makes thefollowing remarks in relation to the Cave air, as farback as 1832, the date of his visit:

"It is always temperate. Its purity, judging fromits effects on the lungs, and from othercircumstances, is remarkable, though in what its

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purity consists, I know not. But, be its compositionwhat it may, it is certain its effects upon the spiritsand bodily powers of visiters, are extremelyexhilarating; and that it is not less salubrious thanenlivening. The nitre diggers were a famously healthyset of men; it was a common and humane practiceto employ laborers of enfeebled constitutions, whowere soon restored to health and strength, thoughkept at constant labour; and more joyous, merryfellows were never seen. The oxen, of which severalwere kept day and night in the Cave, hauling thenitrous earth, were after a month or two of toil, in asfine condition for the shambles, as if fattened in thestall. The ordinary visiter, though rambling a dozenhours or more, over paths of the roughest and mostdifficult kind, is seldom conscious of fatigue, until hereturns to the upper air; and then it seems to him, atleast in the summer season, that he has exchangedthe atmosphere of paradise for that of a charnelwarmed by steam— all without is so heavy, so dank,so dead, so mephitic. Awe and even apprehension,if that has been felt, soon yield to the influence of thedelicious air of the Cave; and after a time a certainjocund feeling is found mingled with the deepest

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impressions of sublimity, which there are so manyobjects to awaken. I recommend all broken heartedlovers and dyspeptic dandies to carry theircomplaints to the Mammoth Cave, where they willundoubtedly find themselves "translated" into verybuxom and happy persons before they are aware ofit."

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Star Chamber.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

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CHAPTER V.

Star Chamber—Salts Room—Indian Houses—Cross Rooms—Black Chambers—A Dinner Party—Humble Chute—Solitary Cave—Fairy Grotto—Chief City or Temple—Lee's Description—Returnto the Hotel.

The Star Chamber next attracted our attention. Itpresents the most perfect optical illusion imaginable;in looking up to the ceiling, which is here very high,you seem to see the very firmament itself, studdedwith stars; and afar off, a comet with its long, brighttail. Not far from this Star Chamber, may be seen, ina cavity in the wall on the right, and about twenty feetabove the floor, an oak pole about ten feet long andsix inches in diameter, with two round sticks of halfthe thickness and three feet long, tied on to ittransversely, at about four feet apart. By means of aladder we ascended to the cavity, and found the poleto be firmly fixed—one end resting on the bottom ofthe cavity, and the other reaching across and forcedinto a crevice about three feet above. We supposedthat this was a ladder once used by the formerinhabitants of the Cave, in getting the salts which are

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incrusted on the walls in many places. Doct. Locke,of the Medical College of Ohio, is, however, of theopinion, that on it was placed a dead body,—similarcontrivances being used by some Indian tribes onwhich to place their dead. Although thousands havepassed the spot, still this was never seen until the fallof 1841. Ages have doubtless rolled by since thiswas placed here, and yet it is perfectly sound; eventhe bark which confines the transverse pieces showsno marks of decay.

We passed through some Side Cuts, as theyare called. These are caves opening on the sides ofthe avenues; and after running for some distance,entering them again. Some of them exceed half amile in length; but most generally they are short. Inmany of them, "quartz, calcedony, red ochre,gypsum, and salts are found." The walking, in thispart of the avenue, being rough, we progressed butslowly, until we reached the Salts Room; here wefound the walls and ceiling covered with saltshanging in crystals. The least agitation of the aircausing flakes of the crystals to fall like snow. In theSalts Room are the Indian houses, under the rocks—small spaces or rooms completely covered—some

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of which contain ashes and cane partly burnt. TheCross Rooms, which we next come to, is a grandsection of this avenue; the ceiling has an unbrokenspan of one hundred and seventy feet, without acolumn to support it! The mouths of two caves areseen from this point, neither of which we visited, andmuch to our loss, as will appear from the followingextract from the "Notes on the Mammoth Cave, by E.F. Lee, Esq., Civil Engineer," in relation to one ofthem—the Black Chambers:

"At the ruins in the Black Chambers, there are agreat many large blocks composed of differentstrata of rocks, cemented together, resembling thewalls, pedestals, cornices, etc., of some old castle,scattered over the bottom of the Cave. The avenuehere is so wide, as to make it quite a task to walkfrom one side to the other. On the right hand, beyondthe ruins, you enter the right branch, on the samelevel—the ceiling of which is regularly arched.Through the Big Chimneys you ascend into an upperroom, about the size of the Main Cave, the bottom ofwhich is higher than the ceiling of the one below.Proceeding on we soon heard the low murmurings ofa water-fall,—the sound of which becomes louder

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a water-fall,—the sound of which becomes louderand louder as we advanced, until we reached theCataract. In the roof are perforations as large as ahogshead, on the right hand side, from which wateris ever falling, on ordinary occasions in not very largequantities; but after heavy rains—in torrents; and witha horrible roar that shakes the walls and resoundsafar through the Cave. It is at such times that thesecascades are worthy the name of cataracts, whichthey bear. The water falling into a great funnel-shaped pit, immediately vanishes."

Here we concluded to dine, and at quite afashionable hour—4, P. M. The guide arranged theplates, knives and forks, wine-glasses, etc., on ahuge table of rock, and announced,—"Dinner isready!" We filled our plates with the excellent viandsprepared at the Cave House, and seating ourselveson the rocks or nitre earth, partook of our repast withthe gusto of gourmands, and quaffing, ever andanon, wines which would have done credit to theAstor or Tremont House. "There may be," remarkedour corpulent friend B., "a great deal of romance inthis way of eating—with your plate on your lap, andseated on a rock or a lump of nitre earth—but for my

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part I would rather dispense with the poetry of thething and eat a good dinner, whether above or belowground, from off a bonafide table, and seated in agood substantial chair. The proprietor ought to haveat all the "watering places, (and they are numerous,)tables, chairs, and the necessary table furniture, thatvisiters might partake of their collations in somedegree of comfort." The guide who, by the way, is avery intelligent and facetious fellow, was muchamused at the suggestion of our friend, andremarked that "the owner of the Cave, Doct.Croghan, lived near Louisville, and that the only wayto get such 'fixings' at the watering places, was towrite to him on the subject." "Then," said B., "for thesake of those who may follow after us, I will take itupon myself to write."

From this point you have a view of the MainAvenue on our left, pursuing its general course, andexhibiting the same solemn grandeur as from thecommencement,—and directly before us the way tothe Humble Chute and the Cataract. The HumbleChute is the entrance to the Solitary Chambers;before entering which, we must crawl on our handsand knees some fifteen or twenty feet under a low

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arch. It is appropriately named; as is the SolitaryChambers which we have now entered. You feelhere,—to use an expression of one of our party,—"out of the world." Without dwelling on the interveningobjects—although they are numerous and not withoutinterest,—we will enter at once the Fairy Grotto ofthe Solitary Cave. It is in truth a fairy grotto; acountless number of Stalactites are seen extending,at irregular distances, from the roof to the floor, ofvarious sizes and of the most fantastic shapes—some quite straight, some crooked, some large andhollow—forming irregularly fluted columns; and somesolid near the ceiling, and divided lower down, into agreat number of small branches like the roots oftrees; exhibiting the appearance of a coral grove.Hanging our lamps to the incrustations on thecolumns, the grove of Stalactites became faintlylighted up, disclosing a scene of extraordinarywildness and beauty. "This is nothing to what you'llsee on the other side of the rivers," cries our guide,smiling at our enthusiastic admiration. With all itspresent beauty, this grotto is far from being what itwas, before it was despoiled and robbed someeight or nine years ago, by a set of vandals, who,

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through sheer wantonness, broke many of thestalactites, leaving them strewn on the floor—adisgustful memorial of their vulgar propensities andbarbarian-like conduct.

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Chief City or Temple.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

Returning from the Fairy Grotto, we entered theMain Cave at the Cataract, and continued our walkto the Chief City or Temple, which is thus describedby Lee, in his "Notes on the Mammoth Cave:"

"The Temple is an immense vault covering anarea of two acres, and covered by a single dome ofsolid rock, one hundred and twenty feet high. Itexcels in size the Cave of Staffa; and rivals thecelebrated vault in the Grotto of Antiparos, which issaid to be the largest in the world. In passing throughfrom one end to the other, the dome appears tofollow like the sky in passing from place to place onthe earth. In the middle of the dome there is a largemound of rocks rising on one side nearly to the top,very steep and forming what is called the Mountain.

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When first I ascended this mound from the cavebelow, I was struck with a feeling of awe more deepand intense, than any thing that I had ever beforeexperienced. I could only observe the narrow circlewhich was illuminated immediately around me;above and beyond was apparently an unlimitedspace, in which the ear could catch not the slightestsound, nor the eye find an object to rest upon. It wasfilled with silence and darkness; and yet I knew that Iwas beneath the earth, and that this space, howeverlarge it might be, was actually bounded by solidwalls. My curiosity was rather excited than gratified.In order that I might see the whole in one connectedview, I built fires in many places with the pieces ofcane which I found scattered among the rocks. Thentaking my stand on the Mountain, a scene waspresented of surprising magnificence. On theopposite side the strata of gray limestone, breakingup by steps from the bottom, could scarcely bediscerned in the distance by the glimmering light.Above was the lofty dome, closed at the top by asmooth oval slab, beautifully defined in the outline,from which the walls sloped away on the right and leftinto thick darkness. Every one has heard of the

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dome of the Mosque of St. Sophia, of St. Peter'sand St. Paul's; they are never spoken of but in termsof admiration, as the chief works of architecture, andamong the noblest and most stupendous examplesof what man can do when aided by science; and yetwhen compared with the dome of this Temple, theysink into comparative insignificance. Such is thesurpassing grandeur of Nature's works."

To us, the Temple seemed to merit the glowingdescription above given, but what would Lee think,on being told, that since the discovery of the riversand the world of beauties beyond them, not oneperson in fifty visits the Temple or the Fairy Grotto;they are now looked upon as tame and uninteresting.The hour being now late, we concluded to proceedno further, but to return to the hotel, where we arrivedat 11, P. M.

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CHAPTER VI.

Arrival of a large Party—Second Visit—Lamps Extinguished—Laughable Confusion—Wooden Bowl—Deserted Chambers—Richardson's Side-Saddle Pit—The Labyrinth—Louisa's Dome—Gorin's DomeBottomless Pit—Separation of our Party.

On being summoned to breakfast the next morning,we ascertained that a large party of ladies andgentlemen had arrived during our absence, who, likeourselves, were prepared to enter the Cave. They,however, were for hurrying over the rivers, to thedistant points beyond—we, for examining leisurelythe avenues on this side. At 8 o'clock, both partiesaccompanied by their respective guides and makinga very formidable array, set out from the hotel, happyin the anticipation of the "sights to be seen." It wasamusing to hear the remarks, and to witness thehorror of some of the party on first beholding themouth of the Cave. Oh! it is so frightful!—It is socold!—I cannot go in! Notwithstanding all this,curiosity prevailed, and down we went—arrangedour lamps, which being extinguished in passingthrough the doorway by the strong current of air

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rushing outwards, there arose such a clamor, suchlaughter, such screaming, such crying out for theguides, as though all Bedlam had broke loose,—theguides exerting themselves to quiet apprehensions,and the visiters of yesterday knowing that there wasneither danger nor just cause of alarm, doing theirutmost to counteract their efforts, by well feignedexclamations of terror. At length the lamps were re-lighted and order being restored, onward we went.The Vestibule and Church were each in turnilluminated, to the enthusiastic delight of all—eventhose of the party, who were but now so terrified,were loud in their expressions of admiration andwonder. Arrived at the Giant's Coffin, we leave theMain Cave to enter regions very dissimilar to thosewe have seen. A narrow passage behind the Coffinleads to a circular room, one hundred feet indiameter, with a low roof, called the Wooden Bowl,in allusion to its figure, or as some say, from awooden bowl having been found here by some oldminer. This Bowl is the vestibule of the DesertedChambers. On the right, are the Steeps of Time,(why so called we are left to conjecture,) down which,descending about twenty feet, and almost

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perpendicularly for the first ten, we enter theDeserted Chambers, which in their course presentfeatures extremely wild, terrific and multiform. Fortwo hundred yards the ceiling as you advance isrough and broken, but further on, it is waving, whiteand smooth as if worn by water. At Richardson'sSpring, the imprint of moccasins and of children'sfeet, of some by-gone age, were recently seen.There are more pits in the Deserted Chambers thanin any other portion of the Cave; and among themost noted are the Covered Pit, the Side-Saddle Pitand the Bottomless Pit. Indeed the whole range ofthese chambers, is so interrupted by pits, andthroughout is so irregular and serpentine and sobewildering from the number of its branches, that thevisiter, doubtful of his footing, and uncertain as to hiscourse, is soon made sensible of the prudence ofthe regulation, which enjoins him, "not to leave theguide." "The Covered Pit is in a little branch to theleft; this pit is twelve or fifteen feet in diameter,covered with a thin rock, around which a narrowcrevice extends, leaving only a small support on oneside. There is a large rock resting on the centre ofthe cover. The sound of a waterfall may be heard

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the cover. The sound of a waterfall may be heardfrom the pit but cannot be seen." The Side-SaddlePit is about twenty feet long and eight feet wide, witha margin about three feet high, and extendinglengthwise ten feet, against which one may safelylean, and view the interior of the pit and dome. Aftera short walk from this place, we came to a ladder onour right, which conducted us down about fifteen feetinto a narrow pass, not more than five feet wide; thispass is the Labyrinth, one end of which leads to theBottomless Pit, entering it about fifty feet down, andthe other after various windings, now up, now down,over a bridge, and up and down ladders, conductsyou to one of the chief glories of the Cave,—Gorin'sDome; which, strange to tell, was not discovereduntil a few years ago. Immediately behind the ladder,there is a narrow opening in the rock, extending upvery nearly to the cave above, which leads abouttwenty feet back to Louisa's Dome, a pretty littleplace of not more than twelve feet in diameter, but oftwice that height. This dome is directly under thecentre of the cave we had just been traversing, andwhen lighted up, persons within it can be plainly seenfrom above, through a crevice in the rock. Arrived at

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Gorin's Dome, we were forcibly struck by theseeming appearance of design, in the arrangementof the several parts, for the special accommodationof visiters—even with reference to their number. TheLabyrinth, which we followed up, brought us at itstermination, to a window or hole, about four feetsquare, three feet above the floor, opening into theinterior of the dome, about midway between thebottom and top; the wall of rock being at this spot,not more than eighteen inches thick; and continuingaround, and on the outside of the dome, along agallery of a few feet in width, for twenty or morepaces, we arrived at another opening of much largersize, eligibly disposed, and commanding, like thefirst, a view of very nearly the whole interior space.Whilst we are arranging ourselves, the guide stealsaway, passes down, down, one knows not how, andis presently seen by the dim light of his lamp, fiftyfeet below, standing near the wall on the inside of thedome. The dome is of solid rock, with sidesapparently fluted and polished, and perhaps twohundred feet high. Immediately in front and aboutthirty feet from the window, a huge rock seemssuspended from above and arranged in folds like a

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curtain. Here we are then, the guide fifty feet belowus. Some of the party thrusting their heads and, intheir anxiety to see, their bodies through the windowinto the vast and gloomy dome of two hundred feet inheight. The window is not large enough to afford aview to all at once, they crowd one on the top of theother; the more cautious, and those who do not liketo be squeezed, stand back; but still holding fast tothe garments of their friends for fear they might in theecstasy of their feelings, leap into the frightful abyssinto which they are looking. Suddenly the guideignites a Bengal light. The vast dome is radiant withlight. Above, as far as the eye can reach, are seenthe shining sides of the fluted walls; below, theyawning gulf is rendered the more terrific, by thepallid light exposing to view its vast depth, the wholedisplaying a scene of sublimity and splendor, suchas words have not power to describe. Returning, weascended the ladder near Louisa's Dome, andcontinued on, having the Labyrinth on our right sideuntil it terminates in the Bottomless Pit. This pitterminates also the range of the DesertedChambers, and was considered the Ultima Thule ofall explorers, until within the last few years, when Mr.

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Stephenson of Georgetown, Ky. and the intrepidguide, Stephen, conceived the idea of reaching theopposite side by throwing a ladder across thefrightful chasm. This they accomplished, and on thisladder, extending across a chasm of twenty feetwide and near two hundred deep, did these daringexplorers cross to the opposite side, and thus openthe way to all those splendid discoveries, which haveadded so much to the value and renown of theMammoth Cave. The Bottomless Pit is somewhat inthe shape of a horse-shoe, having a tongue of landtwenty seven feet long, running out into the middle ofit. From the end of this point of land, a substantialbridge has been thrown across to the cave on theopposite side.

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Bottomless Pit.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

While standing on the bridge, the guide letsdown a lighted paper into the deep abyss; itdescends twisting and turning, lower and lower, andis soon lost in total darkness, leaving us to

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conjecture, as to what may be below. Crossing thebridge to the opposite cave, we find ourselves in themidst of rocks of the most gigantic size lying alongthe edge of the pit and on our left hand. Above the pitis a dome of great size, but which, from its position,few have seen. Proceeding along a narrow passagefor some distance, we arrived at the point from whichdiverge two noted routes—the Winding Way andPensico Avenue. Here we called a short halt; thenwishing our newly formed acquintances a safevoyage over the "deep waters," we parted; theytaking the left hand to the Winding Way and therivers, and we the right to Pensico Avenue.

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CHAPTER VII.

Pensico Avenue—Great Crossings—Pine Apple Bush—Angelica'sGrotto—Winding Way—Fat Friend in Trouble—Relief Hall—BaconChamber—Bandit's Hall.

Pensico Avenue averages about fifty feet in width, witha height of about thirty feet; and is said to be twomiles long. It unites in an eminent degree the trulybeautiful with the sublime, and is highly interestingthroughout its entire extent. For a quarter of a milefrom the entrance, the roof is beautifully arched,about twelve feet high and sixty wide, and formerlywas encrusted with rosettes and other formations,nearly all of which have been taken away ordemolished, leaving this section of the Cave quitedenuded. The walking here is excellent; a dozenpersons might run abreast for a quarter of a mile toBunyan's Way, a branch of the avenue, leading on tothe river. At this point the avenue changes itsfeatures of beauty and regularity, for those of wildgrandeur and sublimity, which it preserves to theend. The way, no longer smooth and level, is

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frequently interrupted and turned aside by hugerocks, which lie tumbled around, in all imaginabledisorder. The roof now becomes very lofty andimposingly magnificent; its long, pointed or lancetarches, forcibly reminding you of the rich andgorgeous ceilings of the old Gothic Cathedrals, atthe same time solemnly impressing you with theconviction that this is a "building not made withhands." No one, not dead to all the more refinedsensibilities of our nature, but must exclaim, inbeholding the sublime scenes which here presentthemselves, this is not the work of man! No one canbe here without being reminded of the all pervadingpresence of the great "Father of all."

"What, but God, pervades, adjusts and agitatesthe whole!"

Not far from the point at which the avenueassumes the rugged features, which nowcharacterize it, we separated from our guide, hecontinuing his straight-forward course, and wedescending gradually a few feet and entering atunnel of fifteen feet wide on our left, the ceilingtwelve or fourteen feet high, perfectly arched andbeautifully covered with white incrustations, very

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soon reached the Great Crossings. Here the guidejumped down some six or eight feet from the avenuewhich we had left, into the tunnel where we werestanding, and crossing it, climbed up into theavenue, which he pursued for a short distance oruntil it united with the tunnel, where he again joinedus. In separating from, then crossing, and againuniting with the avenue, it describes with itsomething like the figure 8. The name, GreatCrossings, is not unapt. It was however, not given, asour intelligent guide veritably assured us, in honor ofthe Great Crossings where the man lives who killedTecumseh, but because two great caves cross here;and moreover said he, "the valiant Colonel ought tochange the name of his place, as no two places in aState should bear the same name, and this beingthe great place ought to have the preference."

Not very far from this point, we ascended a hillon our left, and walking a short distance over ourshoe-tops in dry nitrous earth, in a directionsomewhat at a right angle with the avenue below, wearrived at the Pine Apple Bush, a large column,composed of a white, soft, crumbling material, withbifurcations extending from the floor to the ceiling. At

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a short distance, either to the right or left, you have afine view of the avenue some twenty feet below, bothup and down. Why this crumbling stalactite is calledthe Pine Apple Bush, I cannot divine. It standshowever in a charming, secluded spot, inviting torepose; and we luxuriated in inhaling the all-inspiringair, while reclining on the clean, soft and dry saltpetre earth.

All lovers of romantic scenery ought to visit thisavenue, and all dyspeptic hypochondriacs and love-sick despondents should do likewise, for there issomething wonderfully exhilarating in the air ofPensico. Our friend B. remarked while rolling on thesalt petre earth at the Pine Apple Bush, that he felt"especially happy," and whether from sympathy, airor what not, we all partook of the same feeling. Theguide seeing the position of our fat friend, andhearing his remark, said, laughing mostimmoderately, "these sort of feelings would comeover one, now and then in the Cave, but wait till youget in the Winding Way and see how you feel then."

Having descended into the avenue we had left,we passed a number of stalactites and stalagmites,bearing a remarkable resemblance to coral, and a

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bearing a remarkable resemblance to coral, and ahundred or more paces beyond, arrived at a recesson the left, lined with innumerable crystals of dog-tooth spar, shining most brilliantly, called Angelica'sGrotto. One would think it almost sacrilege to defacea spot like this; yet, did a Clergyman (the back of theguide being turned,) deliberately demolish a numberof beautiful crystals to inscribe the initials of hisname.

Returning to the head of Pensico Avenue, weturned to our right, and entered the narrow passwhich leads to the river, pursuing which, for a fewhundred yards, descending all the while, at one ortwo places down a ladder or stone steps, we cameto a path cut through a high and broad embankmentof sand, which very soon conducted us to the muchtalked of and anxiously looked for Winding Way. TheWinding Way, has, in the opinion of many, beenchanneled in the rock by the gradual attrition ofwater. If this be so, and appearances seem tosupport such belief, at what early age of the worlddid the work commence? Was it not when "the earthwas without form and void," thousands of yearsperhaps, before the date of the Mosaic account of

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the Creation? The Winding Way is one hundred andfive feet long, eighteen inches wide, and from threeto seven feet deep, widening out above, sufficientlyto admit the free use of one's arms. It is throughouttortuous, a perfect zig-zag, the terror of the Falstaffsand the ladies of "fat, fair and forty," who have aninstinctive dread of the trials to come, and are wellaware of the merriment that their efforts to force apassage will excite among their companions of lesslength of girdle. Into this winding way, we entered inIndian file, and turning our right side, then our left,twisting this way, then that, had nearly made goodthe passage, when our fat friend, who was puffingand blowing behind us like a high pressure engine,cried out, "Halt, ahead there! I am stuck as tight as awedge in a log!" Halt we did, when the guide,looking at our friend, who was in truth "wedg'd in therocky way and sticking fast," cried out, "I told you,when you said at the Pine Apple Bush, that you feltespecially happy, to wait till you got to the WindingWay, to see how you would feel then!" Theimprisoned gentleman soon burst his bonds, not,however, without damage to his indispensables; andat length forcing his way into Relief Hall, he cried out,

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in the joy of his heart, while stretching himself andwiping the perspiration from his jolly, rubicund face,"never was a name more appropriate given to anyplace—Relief. I feel already the expansive faculty ofthe atmosphere, I can now breathe again."

Relief Hall, which you enter from the WindingWay, at a right-angle, is very wide and lofty but notlong; turning to the right, we reached its terminationat River Hall, a distance of perhaps, one hundredyards. Here two routes present themselves; the oneto the left conducts to the Dead Sea and the Rivers,and that to the right, to the Bacon Chamber, theBandit's Hall, the Mammoth Dome and an infinity ofother caves, domes, etc. We will speak of the BaconChamber; but before doing so, let us take our lunch.The air or exercise, or probably both, acted aspowerful appetizers, and we soon gave proof that weneeded not Stoughton's bitters to provoke anappetite. Having discussed a few glasses ofexcellent Hock, we left the Bacon Chamber, which isa pretty fair representation of a low ceiling, thicklyhung with canvassed hams and shoulders; andproceeded to the Bandit's Hall, up a steep ascent oftwenty or thirty feet, rendered very difficult, by the

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huge rocks which obstructed the way and over whichwe were forced to clamber. The name is indicativeof the spot. It is a vast and lofty chamber, the floorcovered with a mountainous heap of rocks risingamphitheatrically almost to the ceiling, and sodisposed as to furnish at different elevations,galleries or platforms, reaching immediately aroundthe chamber itself or leading off into some of itshidden recesses. The guide is presently seenstanding at a fearful height above, and suddenly aBengal light, blazes up, "when the rugged roof, thefrowning cliffs and the whole chaos of rocks arerefulgent in the brilliant glare." The sublimity of thescene is beyond the powers of the imagination.

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CHAPTER VIII.

Mammoth Dome—First Discoverers—Little Dome—Tale of aLamp-Return.

From the Bandit's Hall, diverge two caves; one ofwhich, the left, leads you to a multitude of domes;and the right, to one which, par excellence, is calledthe Mammoth Dome. Taking the right, we arrived,after a rugged walk of nearly a mile, to a platform,which commands an indistinct view of this dome ofdomes. It was discovered by a German gentlemanand the guide Stephen about two years ago, but wasnot explored until some months after, when it wasvisited by a party of four or five, accompanied by twoguides, and well prepared with ropes, &c. From theplatform, the guides were let down about twenty feet,by means of a rope, and upon reaching the groundbelow, they found themselves on the side of a hill,which, descending about fifty feet, brought themimmediately under the Great Dome, from the summitof which, there is a water-fall. This dome is near fourhundred feet high, and is justly considered one of the

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most sublime and wonderful spectacles of this mostwonderful of caverns. From the bottom of the domethey ascended the hill to the place to which they hadbeen lowered from the platform, and continuingthence up a very steep hill, more than one hundredfeet, they reached its summit. Arrived at the summit,a scene of awful grandeur and magnificence ispresented to the view. Looking down the declivity,you see far below to the left, the visiters whom youhave left behind, standing on the platform ortermination of the avenue along which they hadcome; and lower down still, the bottom of the GreatDome itself. Above, two hundred and eighty feet, isthe ceiling, lost in the obscurity of space anddistance. The height of the ceiling was determinedby E. F. Lee, civil engineer. This fact in regard to theelevation of the ceiling and the locality of the GreatHall, was subsequently ascertained, by finding on thesummit of the hill, (a spot never before trodden byman,) an iron lamp!! The astonishment of the guides,as well as of the whole party, on beholding the lamp,can be easily imagined; and to this day they wouldhave been ignorant of its history, but for theaccidental circumstance of an old man being at the

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Cave Hotel, who, thirty years ago, was engaged as aminer in the saltpetre establishment of Wilkins &Gratz. He, on being shown the lamp, said at once,that it had been found under the crevice pit (a factthat surprised all,); that during the time Wilkins &Gratz were engaged in the manufacture of saltpetre,a Mr. Gatewood informed Wilkins, that in allprobability, the richest nitre earth was under thecrevice pit. The depth of this pit being then unknown,Wilkins, to ascertain it, got a rope of 45 feet long,and fastening this identical lamp to the end of it,lowered it into the pit, in the doing of which, the stringcaught on fire, and down fell the lamp. Wilkins madean offer of two dollars to any one of the miners whowould descend the pit and bring up the lamp. Hisoffer was accepted by a man, who, in consequenceof his diminutive stature, was nicknamed Little Dave;and the rope being made fast about his waist, he,torch in hand, was lowered to the full extent of theforty-five feet. Being then drawn up, the poor fellowwas found to be so excessively alarmed, that hecould scarcely articulate; but having recovered fromhis fright, and again with the full power of utterance,he declared that no money could tempt him to try

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again for the lamp; and in excuse for such adetermination, he related the most marvellous storyof what he had seen—far exceeding the wonderfulthings which the unexampled Don Quixote de laMancha declared he had seen in the deep cave ofMontesinos. Dave was, in fact, suspended at theheight of two hundred and forty feet above the levelbelow. Such is the history of the lamp, as told by theold miner, Holton, the correctness of which was verysoon verified; for guides having been sent to theplace where the lamp was found, and persons at thesame time stationed at the mouth of the crevice pit,their proximity was at once made manifest by thevery audible sound of each other's voices, and by thefact that sticks thrown into the pit fell at the feet of theguides below, and were brought out by them. Thedistance from the mouth of the Cave to this pit, fallsshort of half a mile; yet to reach the grand apartmentimmediately under it, requires a circuit to be made ofat least three miles. The illumination of that portion ofthe Great Dome on the left, and of the hall on the topof the hill to the right, as seen from the platform, wasunquestionably one of the most impressivespectacles we had witnessed; but to be seen to

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spectacles we had witnessed; but to be seen toadvantage, another position ought to be taken by thespectator, and the dome with its towering height, andthe hall on the summit of the hill, with its giganticstalagmite columns, and ceiling two hundred feethigh, illuminated by the simultaneous ignition of anumber of Bengal lights, judiciously arranged. Suchwas the enthusiastic admiration of some foreignerson witnessing an illumination of the Great Dome andHall, that they declared, it alone would compensatefor a voyage across the Atlantic. With the partialillumination of the Great Dome, we closed ourexplorations on this side of the rivers, and retracingour steps, reached the hotel about sun-set. At mid-night, the party which separated from us at theentrance of Pensico Avenue, returned from thepoints beyond the Echo river.

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CHAPTER IX.

Third Visit—River Hall—Dead Sea—River Styx—Lethe—EchoRiver Purgatory—Eyeless Fish—Supposed Boil of the Rivers—Sources and Outlet Unknown.

Early the next morning, having made all thenecessary preparations for the grand tour, which wewere the more anxious to take from the glowingaccounts of the party recently returned, we enteredthe cave immediately after an early breakfast, andproceeded rapidly on to River Hall. It was evidentfrom the appearance of the flood here, that it hadbeen recently overflown.

"The cave, or the River Hall," remarks a fair anddistinguished authoress, whose description of theriver scenery is so graphic, that I cannot do betterthan transcribe it throughout: "The River Halldescends like the slope of a mountain; the ceilingstretches away—away before you, vast and grandas the firmament at midnight." Going on, andgradually ascending and keeping close to the righthand wall, you observe on your left a steep

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precipice, over which you can look down by the aidof blazing missiles, upon a broad black sheet ofwater, eighty feet below, called the Dead Sea. Thisis an awfully impressive place; the sights and soundsof which, do not easily pass from memory. He whohas seen it, will have it vividly brought before him, byAlfieri's description of Filippo, 'only a transient wordor act gives us a short and dubious glimmer, thatreveals to us the abysses of his being—dark, luridand terrific, as the throat of the infernal pool.'Descending from the eminence, by a ladder of abouttwenty feet, we find ourselves among piles ofgigantic rocks, and one of the most picturesquesights in the world, is to see a file of men and womenpassing along those wild and scraggy paths, movingslowly—slowly, that their lamps may have time toilluminate their sky-like ceiling and gigantic walls—disappearing behind high cliffs—sinking into ravines—their lights shining upwards through fissures in therocks—then suddenly emerging from some abruptangle, standing in the bright gleam of their lamps,relieved by the towering black masses around them.He, who could paint the infinite variety of creation,can alone give an adequate idea of this marvellous

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region. As you pass along, you hear the roar ofinvisible waterfalls; and at the foot of the slope, theriver Styx lies before you, deep and black,overarched with rock. The first glimpse of it brings tomind, the descent of Ulysses into hell,

"Where the dark rock o'erhangs the infernal lake,And mingling streams eternal murmurs make."

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River Scene.On stone by T. Camplell, Bauer & Taschenmacher's Lith.

Across (or rather down) these unearthly waters,the guide can convey but four passengers at once.The lamps are fastened to the prow; the images ofwhich, are reflected in the dismal pool. If you areimpatient of delay, or eager for new adventures, youcan leave your companions lingering about theshore, and cross the Styx by a dangerous bridge ofprecipices overhead. In order to do this, you mustascend a steep cliff, and enter a cave above, 300yards long, from an egress of which, you find yourself

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on the bank of the river, eighty feet above its surface,commanding a view of those in the boat, and thosewaiting on the shore. Seen from this height, thelamps in the canoe glare like fiery eye-balls; and thepassengers, sitting there so hushed and motionless,look like shadows. The scene is so strangelyfunereal and spectral, that it seems as if the Greeksmust have witnessed it, before they imaginedCharon conveying ghosts to the dim regions of Pluto.Your companions thus seen, do indeed—

"Skim along the dusky glades, Thin airy souls, andvisionary shades."

If you turn your eyes from the canoe to theparties of men and women whom you left waiting onthe shore, you will see them by the gleam of theirlamps, scattered in picturesque groups, looming outin bold relief from the dense darkness around them."

Having passed the Styx, (much the smallest ofthe rivers,) you walk over a pile of large rocks, andare on the banks of Lethe; and looking back, you willsee a line of men and women descending the highhill from the cave, which runs over the river Styx.

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Here are two boats, and the parties, which havecome by the two routes, down the Styx or over it,uniting, descend the Lethe about a quarter of a mile,the ceiling for the entire distance being very high—certainly not less than fifty feet. On landing, you entera level and lofty hall, called the Great Walk, whichstretches to the banks of the Echo, a distance ofthree or four hundred yards. The Echo is truly a river:it is wide and deep enough, at all times, to float thelargest steamer. At the point of embarkation, thearch is very low, not more than three feet, in anordinary stage of water, being left for a boat to passthrough. Passengers, of course, are obliged todouble up, and lie upon each others shoulders, in amost uncomfortable way, but their suffering is ofshort duration; in two boat lengths, they emerge towhere the vault of the cave is lofty and wide. Theboat in which we embarked was sufficiently large tocarry twelve persons, and our voyage down the riverwas one of deep, indeed of most intense interest.The novelty, the grandeur, the magnificence of everything around elicited unbounded admiration andwonder. All sense of danger, (had any beenexperienced before,) was lost in the solemn, quiet

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sublimity of the scene. The rippling of the watercaused by the motion of our boat is heard afar off,beating under the low arches and in the cavities ofthe rocks. The report of a pistol is as that of theheaviest artillery, and long and afar does the echoresound, like the muttering of distant thunder. Thevoice of song was raised on this dark, deep water,and the sound was as that of the most powerfulchoir. A full band of music on this river of echoeswould indeed be overpowering. The aquaticexcursion was more to our taste than any thing wehad seen, and never can the impression it made beobliterated from our memories.

The Echo is three quarters of a mile long. A riseof the water of merely a few feet connects the threerivers. After long and heavy rains, these riverssometimes rise to a perpendicular height of morethan fifty feet; and then they, as well as the cataracts,exhibit a most terrific appearance. The low arch atthe entrance of the Echo, can not be passed whenthere is a rise of water of even two feet. Once ortwice parties have been caught on the further side bya sudden rise, and for a time their alarm was great,not knowing that there was an upper cave through

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not knowing that there was an upper cave throughwhich they could pass, that would lead them aroundthe arch to the Great Walk. This upper cave, orpassage, is called Purgatory, and is, for a distanceof forty feet, so low, that persons have to crawl ontheir faces, or, as the guides say, snake it. We werepleased to learn that this passage would soon besufficiently enlarged to enable persons to walkthrough erect. This accomplished, an excursion toCleveland's Avenue may be made almost entirely byland, at the same time that all apprehensions ofbeing caught beyond Echo will be removed. It is inthese rivers, that the extraordinary white eyeless fishare caught—we secured two of them. There is notthe slightest indication of an organ similar to an eye,to be discovered. They have been dissected byskillful anatomists, who declare that they are not onlywithout eyes, but also develope other anomalies intheir organization, singularly interesting to thenaturalist. "The rivers of Mammoth Cave were nevercrossed till 1840. Great efforts have been made todiscover whence they come and whither they go, yetthey still remain as much a mystery as ever—withoutbeginning or end; like eternity."

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"Darkly thou glidest onward,Thou deep and hidden wave!

The laughing sunshine hath not look'dInto thy secret cave.

Thy current makes no music—A hollow sound we hear;

A muffled voice of mystery,And know that thou art near.

No brighter line of verdureFollows thy lonely way

No fairy moss, or lily's cup,Is freshened by thy play."

According to the barometrical measurement ofProfessor Locke, the rivers of the Cave are nearly ona level with Green River; but the report of Mr. Lee,civil engineer, is widely different. He says, "Thebottom of the Little Bat Room Pit is one hundred andtwenty feet below the bed of Green River. TheBottomless Pit is also deeper than the bed of GreenRiver, and so far as a surveyor's level can be relied

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on, the same may be said of the Cavern Pit andsome others." The rivers of the Cave were unknownat the time of Mr. Lee's visit in 1835, but they areunquestionably lower than the bottom of the pits, andreceive the water which flows from them. Accordingto the statement of Lee, the bed of these rivers islower than the bed of Green River at its junction withthe Ohio, taking for granted that the report of theState engineers as to the extent of fall between apoint above the Cave and the Ohio, be correct, ofwhich there is no doubt. "It becomes, then,"continues Mr. Lee, in reference to the waters of theCave, "an object of interesting inquiry to determinein what way it is disposed of. If it empties into GreenRiver, the Ohio, or the ocean, it must run a greatdistance under ground, with a very small descent."

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CHAPTER X.

Pass of El Ghor—Silliman's Avenue—Wellington's Gallery—Sulphur Spring—Mary's Vineyard—Holy Sepulchre—Commencement of Cleveland Avenue—By whom Discovered—Beautiful Formations—Snow-ball Room—Rocky Mountains—Croghan's Hall—Serena's Arbor—Dining Table—Dinner Party andToast—Hoax of the Guide—Homeward Bound Passage—Conclusion.

Having now left the Echo, we have a walk of four milesto Cleveland's Avenue. The intervening points are ofgreat interest; but it would occupy too much time todescribe them. We will therefore hurry on through thepass of El Ghor, Silliman's Avenue, and Wellington'sGallery, to the foot of the ladder which leads up to theElysium of Mammoth cave. And here, for the benefitof the weary and thirsty, and of all others whom itmay interest, coming after us, be it known, thatCarneal's Spring is close at hand, and equally near,a sulphur spring, the water of which, equals in qualityand quantity that of the far-famed White SulphurSpring, of Virginia. "At the head of the ladder, youfind yourself surrounded by overhanging stalactites,

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in the form of rich clusters of grapes, hard as flint,and round and polished, as if done by a sculptor'shand. This is called Mary's Vineyard—thecommencement of Cleveland's Avenue, thecrowning wonder and glory of this subterraneanworld. Proceeding to the right about, a hundred feetfrom this spot, over a rough and rather difficult way,you reach the base of the height or hill, on which,stands the Holy Sepulchre. This interesting spot isreached at some hazard, as the ascent, which isvery steep, and more than twenty feet high, affordsno secure footing, owing to the loose and shinglycharacter of the surface, until the height is gained.Having achieved this, you stand immediately at thebeautiful door-way of the Chapel, or anteroom of theSepulchre. This Chapel, which is, perhaps, twelvefeet square, with a low ceiling, and decorated in themost gorgeous manner, with 'well-arrangeddraperies of stalactite of every imaginable shape,leads you to the room of the Holy Sepulchreadjoining, which is without ornament or decoration ofany kind; exhibiting nothing but dark and bare walls—like a charnel house. In the centre of this room,which stands a few feet below the Chapel, is, to all

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appearance, a grave, hewn out of the living rock.This is the Holy Sepulchre. A Roman Catholic priestdiscovered it about three years ago, and with fervententhusiasm exclaimed," The Holy Sepulchre!" aname which it has since borne. Returning from theHoly Sepulchre, we commence our wanderingsthrough Cleveland's Avenue—an avenue three mileslong, seventy feet wide, and twelve or fifteen feethigh—an avenue more rich and gorgeous than anyever revealed to man—an avenue abounding informations such as are no where else to be seen,and which the most stupid observer could not beholdwithout feelings of wonder and admiration. Some ofthe formations in the avenue, have beendenominated by Professor Locke, oulophilites, orcurled leafed stone; and in remarking upon them, hesays, "They are unlike any thing yet discovered;equally beautiful for the cabinet of the amateur, andinteresting to the geological philosopher." And I,although a wanderer myself in various climes, andsomewhat of a mineralogist withal, have never seenor heard of such. Apprehensive that I might, inattempting to describe much that I have seen, colortoo highly, I will, in lieu thereof, offer the remarks of

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an intelligent clergyman, extracted from the NewYork Christian Observer, of a recent date: "The mostimaginative poet never conceived or painted apalace of such exquisite beauty and loveliness, asCleveland's Cabinet, into which you now pass. Werethe wealth of princes bestowed on the most skilfullapidaries, with the view of rivaling the splendors ofthis single chamber, the attempt would be vain. Howthen can I hope to give you a conception of it? Youmust see it; and you will then feel that all attempt atdescription, is futile." The cabinet was discovered byMr. Patten, of Louisville, and Mr. Craig, ofPhiladelphia, accompanied by the guide Stephen,and extends in nearly a direct line about one and ahalf miles, (the guides say two miles.) It is a perfectarch, of fifty feet span, and of an average height often feet in the centre—just high enough to be viewedwith ease in all its parts. It is incrusted from end toend with the most beautiful formations, in everyvariety of form. The base of the whole, is carbonate(sulphate) of lime, in part of dazzling whiteness, andperfectly smooth, and in other places crystallized soas to glitter like diamonds in the light. Growing fromthis, in endlessly diversified forms, is a substance

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this, in endlessly diversified forms, is a substanceresembling selenite, translucent and imperfectlylaminated. It is most probably sulphate of lime, (agypsum,) combined with sulphate of magnesia.Some of the crystals bear a striking resemblance tobranches of celery, and all about the same length;while others, a foot or more in length, have the colorand appearance of vanilla cream candy; others areset in sulphate of lime, in the form of a rose; andothers still roll out from the base, in forms resemblingthe ornaments on the capitol of a Corinthian column.(You see how I am driven for analogies.) Some ofthe incrustations are massive and splendid; othersare as delicate as the lily, or as fancy-work of shell orwax. Think of traversing an arched way like this for amile and a half, and all the wonders of the tales ofyouth—"Arabian Nights," and all—seem tame,compared with the living, growing reality. Yes,growing reality; for the process is going on be foreyour eyes. Successive coats of these incrustations,have been perfected and crowded off by others; sothat hundreds of tons of these gems lie at your feet,and are crushed as you pass, while the work ofrestoring the ornaments for nature's boudoir, is

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proceeding around you. Here and there, through thewhole extent, you will find openings in the sides, intowhich you may thrust the person, and often standerect in little grottoes, perfectly incrusted with adelicate white substance, reflecting the light from athousand glittering points. All the way you might haveheard us exclaiming, "Wonderful, wonderful! O, Lord,how manifold are thy works!" With general unity ofform and appearance, there is considerable varietyin "the Cabinet." The "Snow-ball Room," forexample, is a section of the cave described above,some 200 feet in length, entirely different from theadjacent parts; its appearance being aptly indicatedby its name. If a hundred rude school boys had butan hour before completed their day's sport, bythrowing a thousand snow-balls against the roof,while an equal number were scattered about thefloor, and all petrified, it would have presentedprecisely such a scene as you witness in this roomof nature's frolics. So far as I know, these "snow-balls" are a perfect anomaly among all the strangeforms of crystalization. It is the result, I presume, ofan unusual combination of the sulphates of lime andmagnesia, with a carbonate of the former. We found

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here and elsewhere in the Cabinet, fine specimensof the sulphate of Magnesia, (or Epsom salts,) a footor two long, and three inches in thickness.

Leaving the quiet and beautiful "Cabinet," youcome suddenly upon the "Rocky Mountains,"furnishing a contrast so bold and striking, as almostto startle you. Clambering up the rough side somethirty feet, you pass close under the roof of thecavern you have left, and find before you animmense transverse cave, 100 feet or more from theceiling to the floor, with a huge pile of rocks half fillingthe hither side—they were probably dashed from theroof in the great earthquake of 1811. Taking the lefthand branch, you are soon brought to "Croghan'sHall," which is nine miles from the mouth, and is thefarthest point explored in that direction. The "Hall" is50 or 60 feet in diameter, and perhaps, thirty-fivefeet high, of a semi-circular form. Fronting you asyou enter, are massive stalactites, ten or fifteen feetin length, attached to the rock, like sheets of ice, andof a brilliant color. The rock projects near the floor,and then recedes with a regular and graceful curve,or swell, leaving a cavity of several feet in widthbetween it and the floor. At intervals, around this

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swell, stalactites of various forms are suspended,and behind the sheet of stalactites first described,are numerous stalagmites, in fanciful forms. I broughtone away that resembles the horns of the deer,being nearly translucent. In the centre of this hall, avery large stalactite hangs from the roof; and acorresponding stalagmite rises from the floor, aboutthree feet in height and a foot in diameter, of anamber color, perfectly smooth and translucent, likethe other formations. On the right, is a deep pit,down which the water dashes from a cascade thatpours from the roof. Other avenues could most likelybe found by sounding the sides of the pit, if any onehad the courage to attempt the descent. We are farenough from terra supra, and our dinner which wehad left at the "Vineyard." We hastened back to theRocky Mountains, and took the branch which we leftat our right on emerging from the Cabinet. Pursuingthe uneven path for some distance, we reached"Serena's Arbor," which was discovered but threemonths since, by our guide "Mat." The descent to theArbor seemed so perilous, from the position of theloose rocks around, that several of the party wouldnot venture. Those of us who scrambled down

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not venture. Those of us who scrambled downregarded this as the crowning object of interest. The"Arbor" is not more than twelve feet in diameter, andof about the same height, of a circular form; but is, ofitself, floor, sides, roof, and ornaments, one perfect,seamless stalactite, of a beautiful hue, and exquisiteworkmanship. Folds or blades of stalactitic matterhang like drapery around the sides, reaching halfway to the floor; and opposite the door, a canopy ofstone projects, elegantly ornamented, as if it werethe restingplace of a fairy bride. Every thing seemedfresh and new; indeed, the invisible architect has notquite finished this master-piece; for you can see thepure water, trickling down its tiny channels andperfecting the delicate points of some of thestalactites. Victoria, with all her splendor, has not inWindsor Castle, so beautiful an apartment as"Serena's Arbor."

Such is the description of Cleveland's Avenue,as given by this clerical gentleman. It is perfectlygraphic, and corresponds with all the glowingaccounts I have read of this famous place.Exquisitely beautiful and rare as are the formationsin this avenue, it will soon be, I fear, like the Grotto of

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Pensico— shorn of its beauties. Many a little Miss,to decorate her centre table or boudoir, and many athoughtless dandy to present a specimen to his ladyfair, have broken from the walls (regardless of thepublished rules prohibiting it,) those lovelyproductions of the Almighty, which required ages toperfect; thus destroying in a moment the work ofcenturies. These beautiful and gorgeous formationswere encrusted on the walls by the hands of ourMaker, and who so impious as to desecrate them—to tear them from their place? there they are, alllovely and beautiful, and there they ought to remain,untouched by the hands of man, for the admirationand wonder of all future ages. If the comparativelysmall cave of Adelburg which belongs to theEmperor of Austria, be placed for the preservation ofits formations under the protecting care of thegoverment (as is the case,) what ought not to bedone to preserve the mineralogical treasures, in thisgreat Cave of America, and especially inCleveland's Cabinet, which are worth more than allthe caves in Europe, indeed of the world, so far asour knowledge of caverns extends.

Returning from Serena's Arbor, we passed on

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our left the mouth of an avenue more than three mileslong, lofty and wide, and at its termination there is ahall, which in the opinion of the guide is larger thanany other in the Cave. It is as yet without a name.Equidistant from the commencement and thetermination of Cleveland's Avenue, is a huge rock,nearly circular, flat on the top and three feet high.This is the "dining table." More than one hundredpersons could be seated around this table; on it theguide arranged our dinner, and we luxuriated on"flesh and fowl" and "choice old sherry." Never did aset of fellows enjoy dinner more than we did ours.Our friend B. was perfectly at his ease and happy;and, in the exuberance of his spirits, proposed thefollowing toast:

"Prosperity to the subterranean territory ofCimmeria; large enough, if not populous enough, foradmission into the Union as an independent State."

We emptied our glasses and gave nine heartycheers in honor of the sentiment. A proposition wasmade to adjourn, but B. was not in clined tolocomotion, and opposed it with great warmth,insisting that it was too soon to move after such adinner, and that a state of rest was absolutely

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essential to healthy digestion. We had muchargument on the motion to adjourn; when oursagacious guide Stephen, with a meaning lookinterposed, saying "we had as well be going, for theriver might take a rise and shut us up here." "What!"exclaimed B. in utter consternation, and with a start,literally bouncing from his seat, cried aloud "Let's beoff!" at the same time suiting the action to the word.In a second we were all in motion, and hurrying pastbeautiful incrustations, through galleries long andtortuous, down one hill and up another, (poor B.puffing and blowing, and all the while exclaimingagainst the terrible length and ruggedness of theway,) we at last reached the Echo, which we found toour great relief had not risen. It seems, the guidehad used this stratagem for our own advantage, tobreak off our banquet, lest it trenched too far uponthe night. We were too happy in having our fearsrelieved, to fall out with him. On our homeward boundpassage over the rivers, our admiration was ratherincreased than diminished. The death-like stillness!the awful silence! the wild grandeur and sublimity ofthe scene, tranquilizing the feeling and disposing topensive musings and quiet contemplation; on a

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pensive musings and quiet contemplation; on asudden a pistol is fired—a tremendous reportensues—its echoes are heard reverberating fromwall to wall, in caves far away, like the low murmuringsound of distant thunder—the spell of silence anddeep reverie is broken—we become roused andanimated, and the mighty cavern resounds with oursong. We believe every one will, under similarcircumstances, experience this sudden transitionfrom pensive musings to joyous hilarity. Leaving therivers, we hastened onward to the outlet to the upperworld. Far ahead we perceive the first dawnings ofday, shining with a silvery pallid hue on the walls, andincreasing in brightness as we advance, until itbursts forth in all the golden rays and gloriouseffulgence of the setting sun. This parting scene islovely and interesting. We bid adieu to the "GreatMonarch of Caves." We here terminate oursubterranean tour. Standing on the grassy terraceabove, we inhale the cool, pure air, and take a lastlook at the "great Wonder of Wonders!" To all wewould say "go and see—explore the greatest of theAlmighty's subterranean works." No description cangive you an idea of it—neither can inspection of

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other caves; it is "the Monarch of Caves!" none thathave ever been measured can at all compare with it,in extent, in grandeur, in wild, solemn, serene,unadorned majesty; it stands entirely alone.—"It hasno brother; it is like no brother."

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Comments to this eBook

This book was orignally written by AlexanderClark Bullitt (1807-1868) and printed in 1845. Theauthor is dead for more than 140 years. The bookwas illustrated by six lithographs, the lithographer isgiven as T. Camplell. We do not know when he died,but it is extremely unlikely, that those are not also inthe public domain. To our best knowledge thecontent of this book is in the public domain.

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