quick guide on fitting central locking

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Hope this helps people. Covers fitting the locking, finding a permanent live and removing door card

Mods feel free to remove links to companies if not allowed - I'm not making any cash of them if tha

Cheers,

David.

Updated version will always be at http://dmiller.sofi.org.uk/Picanto/index.html

Fitting a Hawk central locking system to a my Kia Picanto base spec (UK 2010 model).

Click on the pictures for a big (approx 2mb) image.

Parts needed:

Central locking kit.

(I got mine from Hawk Alarms).

Extra Japanese Bullet connectors. (Auto Electrical Supplies.

Extra Cable (I got thin wall rated for 16amps as the kit has a 15amp fuse - AES again).

I also got an extra 5 wire solenoid so both front doors can lock / unlock the rest.

Heat shrink tubing.

Cable Ties

Insulation Tape

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Quick guide on fitting central locking...

Author

cenjuiNewbie

Joined: 17 Oct 2012

Status: Offline

Points: 22

Topic: Quick guide on fitting central locking...

Posted: 25 Oct 2012 at 11:36pm

ck guide on fitting central locking... - Kia Owners Club Forums file:///C:/Users/Admin/Desktop/kia/Quick guide on fitting central locki...

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Tools:

Screwdrivers

Pliers

Soldering Iron

Drill (3.5mm metal bit)

Non Insulated connector crimping tool. (AES again).

Multimeter

First thing I did was open the wiring loom out of the kit and solder in the extra three wires for the spassanger door. Solder the cable and put heat shrink over it - your never going to have bother with

do it this way.

Next step is to remove the front door cards. My pictures are the drivers side - both sides are the sa

screws holding the door panel as in red below. Also loosen up the drivers door handle by sliding to

in the green arrow below. You will need to manouver it through the door card when you remove it. I

fit.

To remove some of the screws you might need to pop the cover off the middle of the plastic washer.

Pull the cover for the mirror adjuster off. It will come off!


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Wiggle the door handle through the card.

Feel for the gap at the bottom of the door card by the speaker grill and pull out, the door card will c

then can be moved free.


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You will need to undo the cables to the window switches if fitted.

Naked Door!

Peel the plastic out of the way. Its annoying but try not to rip it too much.

Drill holes and mount the solenoid on its metal bar. Once mounted bend the push rod to shape so it

used two pliers to get neat bends. Make sure its fully up when you clamp it in the unlocked postion.

window operation and that the door panel will fit back over it.


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Its hard to see but if you look in at the hinge you will see the wiring loom for the car. Just below it i

it out, thats where we are running our cable. I tried to run in the factory loom but there is just not

I used a stiff bit of coax to run through from the outside in, its the black cable in this picture with th

need to cut the connectors off them to run them. This is the hardest bit of the whole job - getting t

nightmare. Take your time and becareful - plenty of sharp bits of metal there to cut the cable...

Once its out fit the grommit over it.


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I then cut a small hole in the bottom of the factory loom cover and fed the cable up (I fed it up to s

the cover then into the door. Wrap your cables in tape to protect and hide them.

Remove the speaker, run the cables (stay clear of the window mechanism).


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Crimp on new bullet connectors and connect to the soleniod.

Time for a break.

Now remove the trim along the inside of the footwell and at the door pillar. Its a few plastic clips th

is a tight fit - you need to remove it at back door first (it pulls out from the bit under the back seat)

it comes out.


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Time to dismantle the back door. Again some screws and the handle works the same way.

To remove the window handle slide a bit of cloth down between the spacer and the door panel.


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Then move it like your flosing your teeth and it should catch the c clip and ping it off. Be ready to pl

a door mat or something down first to catch it.

Grab the bottom of the door and remove as before.


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Naked back door - again try and preserve the plastic. Mount the soleniod. Two wires for the back do

the window handle here - its back on to allow me to test the window works, you do need to remove

Run the cable down the wiring in the footwell to the pillar.

Pop the cover off the factory loom.


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Unclip the connector in the door pillar.

Poke your cables through it (again you need to cut the ends off the kits cable).

Poke it through the clip in the factory loom. Do the same with the green. Once done the factory loo

cable pocking through it - neat eh? You might struggle here if you dont have basic spec - if your stu

in the plastic.


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Feed the cable down the plastic.

Reassemble.

I had to extend the cables in my kit here - again route behind the speaker and use solder and heat


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Crimp on fresh connectors and connect to soleniod - keep the cable out the way of the window as b

Time for a break.

Do the other side of the car the same way. To get the cables across the dash use your trusty bit of

somewhere behind the radio and grab it under the glove box. Plenty of space up in there for cable t

keep things neat. The doors on this side are the exact same.

Time for a break.


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Scary amount of wiring here!

I took the negative from the mounting point beside the radio - top black cable here is the new one.


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I cable tied the control unit up next to the fuse box.

When you reassemble try and have the fuse holder in next to the factory fuse box - looks neater!


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Test it all works.

Only once its tested and working re-assemble the doors! Its all easy to put back together - just rev

is the window handles, I found I put the c clip almost on, put the handle on and then whacked it an

attempts to get it right!

All done - good job!

Ill update this once I add the one to the boot as well!

Edited by cenjui - 25 Oct 2012 at 11:40pm

Sponsored Links


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Interior dismantling time. First of all pull the back seat up and forward. This revealed a cool storage

It unscrews and pulls out.

Remove thecenter coverin the boot and the spare wheel cover.


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Remove the cover where the light would be in the side panel. (I tested the connector with a voltme

is open, hopefully I can get the light to fit this).

Remove the side panel. I found it easier to remove the screws and then gently pull away the side c

forward to free it.


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Remove the top side panel. This one was a lot harder to remove. I broke one of the clips however it

the only clip I broke. I just slid it down the seatbelt to get it out of the way while I was working.

Run the cable through the factory cable run and then pull it down through the headliner and run it

place. You dont need to remove the headline at all here which makes life a lot easier!


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I removed the plastic panel between the doors and the plastic panel at the foot of the door in the b

run the cables. It was all the same as detailed above. This would be eaiser to do at the same time a

did mine later as I ran out of time when I fitted the door locking. I have joined the cables here in th

cut and solder. I did it that way as I already had the cable for the rear doors in place and the only s

my gas one and I reallydidnt want to risk the exhaust from that damaging the factory wiring. Tape

easier to run them. This will all be hidden behind the plastic.

Cable tieto the factory wiring.


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Overview of cable run - use the coax to pull the cable through the boot - just tape it to it and pull t

Now to sort the lock... The locking rod already in place wont move without the key in lock as I said

can be worked without the key - its only the lock that doesn't. This means you need to fasten the r

to the lock. Luckily this is actually pretty easy. First of all remove the lock. You need to unbolt the t

(one to the handle and one to the lock).


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Now on my catch there was a small hole just the right size for one of the rods that came with my ki

the factory kit. Handy! If yours doesnt have the hole I would drill one. Make sure and keep it high u

two silver rods here are the factory ones and the bronze is the one I have fitted.

The reason my car is always messy comes out to see whats going on...


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Solenoid mounted - its hidden right into the gap in the boot to get it out of the way.

Sadly the rod wasnt quite long enough to reach the solenoid but I had some off cuts off the other r

sorted!


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Cables tidied up and all clipped in neatly.

All back together with the addition of a small handle from my old corsa to make it easier for my wif

And thats it - all sorted - 4 doors and the hatch all working!

Post Options

Hi David

Looks really good, this will help people install a central locking system too their Picanto. My 06 was

the key, so I purchased and interface box with FOB and fitted a master actuator into the drivers do

did mine,http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-picanto-forum/69402-how-install-actuator-into-driver-do

Been working for 2 years without any issue. Currently I have had to replace two headlight bulbs thi

great fun it is to remove the headlights.

Generally I am really happy with my KIA picanto zapp, I only do 16 miles a day too and from work,

a family car KIA sportage Mk3 which is great. All in all I am happy with KIA as a manufacture of car

Regards

Paul

Post Options

Hi Paul,

Thats a nice neat job, I'm very impressed you managed to get the cables in the front through the f

have preferred to do that on mine but there just wasnt enough room to get the connectors apart!

Im actually more impressed with the little car the more work I do on it. I hated it when we first got

on me. Although the brakes are needing done which is the next job. Its a bit of a shame that theredownloaded a kia one but its just not the same. (Its pretty useless actually!).

Ironically we are looking for a family car ourselves soon and the Sorento was one that came up. Th

cool gadgets! I do miss my vauxhalls tho...

G7kbr67Groupie

Joined: 13 Dec 2010

Status: Offline

Points: 85

Posted: 01 Dec 2012 at 11:40am

cenjuiNewbie

Joined: 17 Oct 2012

Status: Offline

Points: 22

Posted: 11 Dec 2012 at 6:52pm


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Cheers,

David.

Post Options

I managed to the get light for the boot today from my local Kia dealership. They needed to order it i

the parts system. It was under cargo lamp assembly and cost just under 12 (with a bulb - nice tou

works perfectly!

David.

Post Reply

cenjuiNewbie

Joined: 17 Oct 2012

Status: Offline

Points: 22

Posted: 16 Jan 2013 at 10:00pm

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