Oliver Berry, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Gregor Clark, Hugh McNaughtan, Nicola Williams

ROADTRIPS

PROVENCE & SOUTHEAST

FRANCE

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1 Sights

r Beaches

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

4 Sleeping

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Tips from Locals

Top Tips

Link Your Trips

Trip Detour

Family

History & Culture

K Food & Drink

Outdoors

5 Eating

Essential Photo

Walking Tour

4 Sleeping

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Symbols In This Book

% Telephone number

h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access WWi-fiaccess s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selec-

tion E English-language

menu c Family-friendly

# Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms

Map Legend

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK

ReviewsIn the Destinations section: All reviews are ordered in our writers’ preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally:

Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by writer preference.

Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by writer preference.

Walk Track/Path

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveCanalWaterDry/Salt/ Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach

Cemetery (Christian)Cemetery (Other)ParkForest

Sportsground

International

Cliff

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian Overpass

Tunnel

Walk RouteLinked TripTrip DetourTrip Route

Airport

Metro station

Train/Railway

Cable Car/ Funicular

Highway marker

ReservationUrban Area

Trip Stop

Tram

Trip Numbers

Walking tour

Trip Detour

Parking

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimarySecondary

Unsealed Road

Transport

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

Routes

Highway Markers

Trips

Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Glacier

CONTENTS

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Provence & Southeast France ............................ 5

Provence & Southeast France Map .................... 6

Provence & Southeast France Highlights .......... 8

Paris City Guide ..............................10

Nice City Guide ...............................12

Need to Know ..................................14

ROAD TRIPS

1 Roman Provence 3 Days 19

2 Lavender Route 4–5 Days 27

3Modern Art Meander 7 Days 35

4 The Camargue 4 Days 43

DESTINATIONS

Nîmes & Around ........................... 52

Uzès ................................................ 58

Provence ........................................ 59

Aix-en-Provence ............................ 59

Arles ................................................ 65

Camargue Wetlands ......................71

Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer ..................74

Les Alpilles ......................................76

St-Rémy-de-Provence ...................76

Orange .............................................79

Vaison-la-Romaine .........................81

Mont Ventoux & Around .............. 82

The Luberon ................................... 83

Apt .................................................. 83

Gordes & Around .......................... 84

Roussillon ...................................... 86

St-Saturnin-lès-Apt ...................... 87

Northeastern Provence ................. 88

Pays de Forcalquier ...................... 88

Vallée de la Durance .................... 88

French Riviera ................................ 89

Nice ................................................ 90

St-Paul de Vence .........................100

Vence .............................................101

Antibes & Juan-les-Pins .............102

Menton ..........................................104

ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS

France Driving Guide ....................107

France Travel Guide .....................113

Language .......................................121

33

Nîmes & Around (p52)A magnificient Roman amphitheatre, museums and markets compete for attention in this bustling com-mercial area.

Provence (p59)With its picturesque lavender fields and delectable cuisine, Provence is a feast for the senses.

French Riviera (p89)Life’s a beach in this idyllic region, as popular for its sun, sea and sand as it is for its arts scene.

Promenade des Anglais (p91), NiceVALERY BARETA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Destinations

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OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photographs: (front) Lavender fields, Provence, Marcutti/Getty Images ©; (back) Menton, French Riviera, RudyBalasko/Getty Images ©

THIS BOOKThis 2nd edition of Lonely Planet’s Provence & Southeast France Road Trips guidebook was researched and written by Oliver Berry, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Gregor Clark, Hugh McNaughtan and Nicola Williams. The previous edition was written by Oliver Berry, Gregor Clark, Emilie Filou, Donna Wheeler and Nicola Williams. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Daniel Fahey

Senior Product Editor Genna Patterson

Regional Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths

Product Editors Alison Ridgway, Ross Taylor

Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep

Assisting Editor Melanie Dankel

Assisting Cartographer Rachel Imeson

Cover Researcher Naomi Parker

Thanks to Kate Chapman, Anne Mason, Jenna Myers, Charles Wong

BEHIND THE

SCENES

123

©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AAbbaye Notre-Dame de

Sénanque 9, 29, 85accessible travel 120accommodation 15, 114-16

costs 15, 115activities, see individual

activities, regionsAigues-Mortes 46air travel 15, 113Aix-en-Provence 40-1,

59-88, 60Antibes 39, 102-4Apt 83-4area codes 119-20Arles 22, 41, 44-5, 48,

65-71, 66art galleries, see museums &

art galleriesATMs 118

BBanon 31bathrooms 120bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 48boat travel 113-14boat trips 74-5books 23budget 15

bullfighting 71business hours 118

CCamargue 9, 43-9,

65-76, 71-3car travel 113, see also

drivingcathedrals, see churches &

cathedralscell phones 15, 119Cézanne, Paul 62Chapelle du Rosaire 38,

101-2churches & cathedrals 90

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Nazareth 25

Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe St-Nicolas 95

Cathédrale Ste- Réparate 90

Cathédrale St-Sauveur 61Église des Stes-Maries

45, 74Église St-Trophime 67Uzès 58

city passesArles 67Nîmes 53Orange 79

climate 14costs 15Coustellet 28-9

credit cards 118Cryptoportiques 22, 67currency 14cycling

Luberon 84Mont Ventoux 82

Ddangers, see safetydisabilities, travellers

with 120Domaine de la Palissade 47driving 107-12, 113

car hire 14, 108fuel 14, 112insurance 107-8licences 107maps 109radio 112road rules 110-11safety 112satellite navigation

systems 112websites 107

Duché 58DVDs 114

Eelectricity 116emergencies 14Étang de Vaccarès 46, 71

000 Map pages

INDEX

124

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Ffestivals & events, see

individual regionsfood 15, 116-17Forcalquier 31-2French language 121-2French Riviera 89-105fuel 14, 112

GGallo-Roman Ruins 25, 81gay travellers 117-18Glanum 22-4, 77Gordes 84-6

Hhiking

Mont Ventoux 82-3Roussillon 86

history, see individual regions

holidays 118-19

Iinsurance 107-8internet access 15, 117internet resources 11, 13, 15,

107, 117-18itineraries 6-7, 6-7

JJardins de la Fontaine 21Juan-les-Pins 39, 102-4

Llanguage 14, 121-2Le Point de Vue 47-8Le Sambuc 48Les Alpilles 76-83Les Alyscamps 67Les Arènes (Arles) 22, 48, 65

Les Arènes (Nîmes) 21, 52lesbian travellers 117-18LGBT+ travellers 117-18Luberon, the 32, 83-8

MMaison Carrée 21, 53Manosque 32-3maps 109markets

Aix-en-Provence 64Antibes 102-3Luberon 33Nice 90

measures 114Menton 36-7, 104-5mobile phones 15, 119money 14, 15, 118Mont Ventoux 30-1, 82-3motorcycles, see drivingmuseums & galleries

Atelier Cézanne 40-1Bastide du Jas de

Bouffan 41Carré d’Art – Musée d’Art

Contemporain 53Carrières de Bibémus 41Caumont Centre d’Art 61Château la Coste 40Fondation Luma 68Fondation Maeght 38, 100Fondation Victor

Vasarely 61Fondation Vincent Van

Gogh 65Hôtel de Sade 77-8Monastère St-Paul de

Mausole 41, 77Musée Bonnard 40Musée d’Apt 83Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

24, 79Musée d’Art Moderne et

d’Art Contemporain 94-5

Musée de la Camargue 72Musée de la

Lavande 28, 85Musée de la Romanité 52-3Musée Départemental

Arles Antique 67Musée du Bastion 104Musée du Bonbon

Haribo 58Musée du Vieux

Nîmes 53-4Musée Granet 41, 60-1Musée Jean Cocteau

Collection Séverin Wunderman 36-7, 104

Musée Masséna 94Musée Matisse 38, 91Musée National Fernand

Léger 39Musée National Marc

Chagall 37-8, 91Musée National Picasso ‘La

Guerre et la Paix 39Musée Perrier 58Musée Picasso 39, 103Musée Réattu 65-7Museo de la Romanité 21Terrain des Peintres 41

music 112

NNice 12-13, 37-8,

90-100, 92-3Nîmes 20-1, 52-7, 54

Oopening hours 118Orange 24-5, 79-80

Ppaddling

Pont du Gard 9, 21, 56Paris 10-11parking 11, 112

125125

IND

EX F-P

000 Map pages

parks & gardensColline du Château 90Colline St-Eutrope 79Domaine de la Palissade 72Jardin de la Serre de la

Madone 104-5Jardin Médiéval 58Jardins de la Fontaine 53La Capelière 46Parc Ornithologique du

Pont de Gau 45, 74Promenade du Paillon 95Réserve Nationale de

Camargue 71-2Pays de Forcalquier 88petrol 14, 112phone cards 120Plage de Piémanson 47Plateau de Valensole 33Pont du Gard 9, 21-2,

56, 57-8Prieuré de Salagon 32, 88Promenade des Anglais 91-4Provence 59-88public holidays 118-19

Rradio 112rental cars 14

Roman sitesArles 22Glanum 22-4, 77Nîmes 20-1Orange 24-5Pont du Gard 21-2, 57-8Vaison-la-Romaine 25

Roussillon 86-7

Ssafety 119

driving 112Salin de Badon 46Sault 30Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer

45-6, 74-6St-Paul de Vence 38-9, 100-1St-Rémy de Provence 41,

76-9St-Saturnin-lès-Apt 29-30,

87-8

Ttelephone services 15,

119-20Théâtre Antique (Arles)

22, 67Théâtre Antique (Orange)

24, 79

Thermes de Constantin 22time 114tipping 15, 118toilets 120Tour Magne 21tourist information 120train travel 114transport 11, 12, 15, 113-114travel seasons 14TV 114

UUzès 58

Vvacations 118-19Vaison-la-Romaine 25, 81-8Vallauris 39-40Vallée de la Durance 88Van Gogh, Vincent 70Vence 101-2visas 14, 120

Wweather 14websites 11, 13, 15, weights 114wi-fi 15, 117

126126

IND

EX P-W

NICOLA WILLIAMS Border-hopping is way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three, Nicola, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more

than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks for Lonely Planet, and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, Lonely Planet’s Traveller magazine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram @tripalong.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR WRITERS

OLIVER BERRY Oliver is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to

the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including the Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Award.

JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological

sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French.

GREGOR CLARK Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of countries on

five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

HUGH MCNAUGHTAN A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne)

he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field.

MORE WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9832nd edition – June 2019ISBN 978 1 78657 395 7© Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 201910 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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