presentazione gl rel 1.1
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Presentation du recherche Academique à Galeries Lafaiettes sur retainerTRANSCRIPT
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F. I-F , 2007-2008
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Galeries Lafayette
-A Shoes Space-
Highlights
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Iconic
image
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“...The real Fashion System is nothing else than a natural
skyline “THE FASHION” appoints to itself in order to build
its “Significant” [its symbols].
Like it or not , outside the WORD there’s no FASHION point
,either in Total or in Essentials ”
[R.Barthes, Le Système de la Mode,1967]
RAW ASSUMPTION
•Systemic approach: method to get to the point
•Understanding structures:verbal/iconic/technical
- SIMPLY EMINENTLY EMPIRICAL & MANAGERIAL -
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“… ce n’est pas l’Objet , c’est le Nom qui fait désirer,
ce n’est pas le Rêve , c’est le Sense qui fait
vendre...”
[R.Barthes, Le Système de la Mode,1967]
Key!
The Role of a
Multisensorial Langage
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Langage ~System of Symbols Representation Reality
Real Products …better Margins !(?)
Needs for Tools to achieve them…
Oblige an Empirical reflections on:
1.Architecture = Spaces&Concepts (soft...ware)
2.High End Technology = Means(hard...ware)
Key!
Drivers or Triggers?:
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Space ∈ Emotions ∈ Experience ∈ Accessibility
Merchandising-Consistency in a Multibrand area
Collection’s significance dilution: risk!
Shoes Merchandising has low correlation:
With Sell-Out [a'] and with Pull-in [b]
!Than the ratio [b/a’=>> sales] due to a “special
area” is STILL dubious
Key!
State of the Art & Disclaimers:
=
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I.e. in shoes fully dedicated areas FROM:
Rodeo Drv. to Bergdorf
Colette to Corso Como 10
Gucci to Prada to S.Rossi to Renè Caovilla or the
(LATE..) Stephan Kelian or Roger Vivier
Takashimaya to Swank Shop
SPACE & Structured Merchandising empirically do not make
real differences or establish consistent, identifiable #
of patterns.
Key!
In a nutshell the empiricism shows what
-likely- you are not expecting to hear:
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Open the Whole [linguistic-semiotic] mechanism :
Dismantle some key words verifying connections semantically
understand it inside out [may yield surprises].
rebuild it in a different way stressing on overlooked
related areas; than two path: soft & hard being innovative and
irreverent within the roots.
Expected results MAY not be FULLY related to economics
in short term building Marketing Capital via increasing
Image & Service
Approaches
empiricism & experience spell it as a hard task: there is no
consistency in solutions.
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sales
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merchandising
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fashionablestylish
stylish fashionable
fashionable
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merchandise
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Merchandise 3levels
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Concept (store)
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shoe
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Shoe 3 levels
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fashion
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trend
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style
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sell
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Architectural & Spaces
SPIRAL (Φ PHI)
as a sign and as a mean of merchandising.
Soft Approach
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High End Technology
IBM multisensorial cabin Concept
Hard Approach
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...as per what
above...
Creative Hints to G.L.
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